Terrifying climb up Tofana di Rozes (Dolomites) - Via Ferrata Giovanni Lipella
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Tofana Di Rozes (3,225m) lies west of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the Italian side of the Dolomites. This is the first mountain that didn't first appeal to me due to its route, but due to its history.
The Tofane mountain range was one of the many locations throughout the Dolomites that saw fierce fighting during World War 1, and as a result of these battles come some of the main challenges of its most famous route. The Giovanni Lipella via Ferrata.
The Giovanni Lipella via Ferrata had us pass through a 500-meter World War 1 tunnel before the actual climbing even began.
Tofana Di Rozes and its famous Via Ferrata should be on the bucket list of every mountaineer. This can be done as a solo climb or as part of a group.
The views, the mix with historical events and the fact that you knew when to stop makes this a great video. Congratulations.
Thanks for watching 🙌🏼
Thank you for sharing it. I still remember climbing it with my father and freeze a couple of times for cramps and the stipiness of the rock wall. Thinking the soldiers in way worst conditions climb the Tofane, is insane. Thank you again.
I climbed it a few days ago, on the first day of July by following the normal route. Was not sure about snow on the ferrata route and this was the reason for not going there. I see some snow sections in your video. But later on the summit I met people coming from that direction and they told me they did not have problem with snow.
You are a great example of how this should work. You gave up so close to the summit and this is not an easy decision as you know, but there will be the other day, the mountain will be there. On my way up, just below the summit I was passing a man who was on his second attempt, previously he gave up because of rain. But he was on the summit that time.
Have read earlier the story about WWI role of this mountain, but you presented it here so nicely. As I said earlier in my another comment on your video about Lagginhorn, you are a natural talent for this. Great work man. May I ask, how do you keep the camera, it does not shake which is good? Is it on a stick?
Thank you for your comment again! I use 2 different cameras, the main one when I usually do the talking and has the ability to have a great zoom is a Sony RX100 mark VII- this is a point-and-shoot camera (small and light) but super powerful for video and photos, the downside is it doesn't have great image stabilization. The action camera I use when I climb steeper sections is a Gopro 8. The Gopros have AMAZING image stabilization software but their batteries are rubbish, especially in cold conditions. Thank you for watching my videos, some great content coming soon!
@@TraintoSummit Actually your hand camera was remarkably stable in my view, this is why I was asking. I assume this was on a selfie-stick.
By the way, I added your video in my Tofana di Roses report in the site, as an excellent information about the ferrata route which I did not climb. Do not want to spam around with links, this is the Mountains for Everybody site you can find it; remove this info if you think it is inappropriate here.
@@jvranjes It's actually mounted on a Joby tripod, those tripods aren't very big but they're super versatile.
I really appreciate you adding the video there! Super happy with that.
Great work to you as well for doing the mountain, keep in touch!
Nice camera work, editing, and good choice of background music! It was very thoughtful of you not to summit without your girl. Nice video!
Thank you for the kind words and for watching!
Finally, someone did justice to film Lipella, nicely filmed!! I did the same, but only to the end of the feratta. It was already 6.30 PM :)))
Thank you for the kind words!
Appreciate the historical context you brought into this video, especially some of the archived photos which gave it a lot more authenticity compared to simply rattling off a few historical facts about it (like many would) and continuing with the climb. Well done! 👍
Thank you! With the added history that stands as the best via Ferrata I ever did.
Fatta 1969 cordino a bretella non c'erano le imbragature attuali, fermato poco prima della vetta dove il percorso si faceva più facile per problemi ti orario(mese di settembre) ritorno con discesa per la stessa via ferrata, esperienza fantastica
As from 11min, got sweaty hands. Such a beautiful video with short interesting historical comments. Good job!
Thanks for your comment and for watching!
Man, i made the top from via Normale and i found it extremely difficult at the end, and it was July! It's very dangerous up there if you make a worng step and you were very wise! Good choice, there will be another time to reach the top! Thanks for the great video!
The scree towards the top is so sketchy! Thanks for watching 🙌🏼
Fantastic place. A little bit careless to push on out with time and weather against you. Dangerous enough without stress. Love the camera work and you guys seem lovely. Don't be afraid to change plans for a nicer day.
Thanks for watching!
What a trip.... and you are right, whatever the destination that's the journey which really matters... you will summit, both, another time and together. Thanks
Well done for not summiting without your partner. Great gesture mate!
Thanks for watching!
The non-cabled sections seem much scarier than the cabled via ferrata sections.
100%
I live there and I did that a few times, but you really did an amazing job showing it complimenti!
Grazie, and thank you for watching!
Thank you for the historical context as well
The history of the route is what sold me to going there in the first place. Thanks for watching!
At least we got a smily Viv. Wasnt sure but that was the icing on the cake. Thanks :)
Thank you for watching 🙌
@@TraintoSummit welcome
Incredible journey man, I'm sorry you guys didn't reach the top, those tiny rocks were horrible. Also, the cave, wow!
10:50 “you didn’t tell me it was rock climbing” 😂
"You didn't tell me it was rock climbing"
Well, that's the main problem with many Dolomites and Austrian Klettersteigen, as opposed to French or Swiss ones : it's MOSTLY ROCK CLIMBING, secured by a iron cable. But technically speaking, one shoudn't use the cable to climb and pull yourself up, but use the stone to climb, while the cable should only serve as a security.
Very true. I also had Viv saying the whole time "you're cheating you're not meant to use the cable" 😂
Thanks for watching!
You are not climbing safely. This is putting out a bad example for people to emulate…
I disagree. Considering the context, which was that we were stuck on a vertical wall clipped into metal with lightning about to begin, that was the fastest way to go up it, and speed was what kept us safe.
Mountaineering isn't rock climbing, in mountaineering you constantly use a balance in-between speed and security, because you have very big days on the mountain and risk getting caught out, this is why you often see mountaineers looping a rope around terrain features as anchors and only place gear systems that they absolutely need to remain safe.
Thanks for your comment and for watching!
Partly I’m jealous at you skills!! However I think it gives a bad example to novices, you barely have a rope attached to the cable for a fair chunk of the vid. Greater risk of falling than being hit by lightning
@@stevenspiess252 I think it's just one of those where we have to agree to disagree. Thanks again for watching
People are so annoying. Everyone’s going to have opinions😂🙌🏼 amazing video! I really want to do this in October if the weather lines up. Looking into if I’m capable of doing this, have done one via Ferrata in Norway and rock climb a bit and am active. I think this is possible👍🏼
@@Casualyoutubee Hahaha, agreed. It's very doable in good weather, just pace yourself. To this day it stands as the most amazing via ferrata we've done to date. Have fun and let me know how it went!
Very nice!! (Can you tell me what sunglasses you used?)
Just came back from dolomites. We were doing ferratas every day, and had to rush most of the time, for the same reason - Thunderstorms! A bit annoying, bit we were lucky most of the times.
Good work for still climbing! Weirdly that area attracts more storms in the afternoon than the Alps. Thanks for watching!
still searching for the foot holds...definitely not doing that one >< loose rocks and scree too my favorite surface ! yes it's the journey that matters I aborted many times sometimes 20m before a goal, safety comes 1st there are other mountains so many to explore :)
Very brave guys! I guess you can call yourself a true alpinist. So nice how you include all the info in between. Outstanding adventure! Stay safe out there and happy trails & climbing ;)
Thanks Mario! Loved making this one 💪
Looking forward to more of your videos as well mate!
That is a gnarly climb!!
Great video, that looked super sketchy. Curious though how you got down, presumably not the way you went up as I doubt you could have done that in 2 hrs. I'd like to see more descent videos, no one ever films their descent which when I was hiking and climbing was always the worst part.
Thanks for watching! We descended via the other side of the mountain. I have videos where I include parts of the descent, most times I choose not to do it so that I can be more in the moment (since I film most of the ascent)🙌
the video is so cool It's amazing. good to see It would be cool to shoot with a drone.
Agreed. That area is like nowhere else. Thanks for watching!
We have done this route twice. But the first time we took the wrong route, shortly after the tunnel and passed the Casteletto.
The 2e time a small stretch on the back of the mountain was icy but we managed the round trip. We weren't certain we had enough time to climb to the top. So we didn't try.
Still I am not able to figure out if you made the same round trip has we did. To start with, you went down a bit, shortly after the tunnel. That is what we did the first time and then turned left to the Casteletto but that was the wrong route.
The 2e time we turned right after the tunnel and the route was either flat or climbing up, more or less at the same altitude as the tunnel exit. Then there is a split. One trail goes to the top. About half an hour, fairly easy not steep climb. The other trail makes a loop around the mountain. We though we would need at least another hour to climb and descend again, so we decided not to go up.
On the back of the mountain, about an hour from the end, there is 2 store rifugio, where we had a drink and a piece of cake. The rifugio is surrounded by huge boulders. We did start and finish at the same parking as you did.
The mountain pass almost at the end is fascinating, specially from below, which you can see in the early stages of the hike. Within the first hour.
2 years later we went for a 3e time. This time with our 13 year old son. We wanted to try to reach the top. But it was the 6th day of our trip and hour son was wasted. He didn't say anything that morning during breakfast, so we left Cortina D'Ampezzo for the short ride to the parking. At the parking lot, all of a sudden he said he wanted to stay in the car because he was too tired. Just like that. We couldn't leave him behind for 7-8 hours, so we decided to go back home to the Netherlands the very same day. The return trip was schedule for 2 days later.
It was a bit tricky to find the way after exiting the tunnel, we went up and back a few times from memory because we weren't sure - I remember there is something else you can access from there and more routes are connecting. From all of the via Ferratas I read into there are 'false' ways to go, due to them being used in the war I presume. We chose to follow the most obvious ways that summited Tofana, and eventually saw sections that I've seen when researching other people's videos and just continued close to the summit. We got to the same refuge as you on the other side, I'm very sure this is the right way and you did indeed do the route.
The part with your son made me laugh 😂 - As a kid I would of probably done the same!!
Thanks for watching! Hope you go with your son there again one day and get to the summit 💪🏼
Awesome video. ❤ Thank you for rendering it so creatively and including the WWI story. I watched this video several times and decided that I want to try it myself. I'm already planning a trip and I would also like to ask you: is there another wonderful via ferrata near this via ferrata that you would recommend? I'm not a big expert, I wish it wasn't the most difficult, but that it would be long and interesting like Tofana di Rozes (Giovanni Lipella). I will wait for your recommendation.😊
Punta Anna is right next door to this one, although it's meant to be more difficult.
In that part of the Dolomites, there are endless Ferratas really. The best advice I can give you is to buy the ROCKFAX book 'The Dolomites - Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata'. They have detailed descriptions of some great routes, hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Tofana di mezzo ma un po' più impegnativa
Congrats for the video, I ve enjoyed it a lot! :)
We re looking for going there this year. We don't know if the 1st week of May is a good idea or there will be snow... what do you think? Ty
Thanks for watching and commenting!
We went in the first week of June and had issues at one point because of the snow (this isn't in the video). As we were going up the Ferrata, past the tunnels there was a section that was snowed in. This was on a very narrow and exposed section (in between the wall and the drop) that isn't protected - normally in summer the path would be wide enough but there was a ton of snow and we had trouble passing since it's pushing you out towards the drop. I don't recommend doing this route in early May to be honest...
Pretty cool climb and not far from Bolzano which is a big transport junction. Climbing is a two way trip - not always have to summit.
Come on, everybody drives Panda in Italy, it is second most desired car after Ferrari :)
But nice video, and kudos to all brave girlfriends :)
The Panda is a classic🤣
great video :)
Thanks for watching!
17:17 ❤❤❤
Nice Video! How do you like those scarpas? I'm considering them..
🏅👏👏👏
awesome
The Fiat Panda: ?? I did not ask for this
How do you get back down? The way you came up?
No, there was another way on the other side of the mountain that was wayyy less steep. Thanks for watching!
Personalmente ho fatto lo stesso percorso
Viv is a very tough little girl.
Panda the best.
In the photo at 08:26 is it the Austrians or Italians who are dressed in World War 2 British uniforms?
Teryfying? There's nothing teryfying. Maybe you choose wrong path ...