2015 Chevy Express Intermittent Misfire - Injector Circuit Codes [Part 2]
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Here is the link to part 1 • 2015 Chevy Express Int...
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I bet that was satisfying, especially being able to see the fault in the fuse box afterwards. Fantastic work guys and the stand-in camera man did a great job too
Fantastic Diag Bro Paul. As a church bus mechanic with a fleet of Express vans this is gold.
We had a 2004 Express once that would randomly engage the starter motor. Starter eating machine believe you me! Lol. Ended up disassembling that same fuse panel to find a drill shaving left in from the factory was shorting out the starter solenoid circuit. Honestly I felt like Americas Got Talent for church bus mechanics that day. Truth is… the Lord helps me. Every day… He’s so good to all of us !!
He truly is! Even in the valleys brother.
But yeah, that's a crazy one (drill bit metal shaving)!
Wow...what an awesome case study. As usual, great diagnostic work on a very difficult problem. Keep up the great work.
Wow those intermittent issues are a nigthtmare and it was great to show what you have to go through to identify the issue. Thanks for sharing Paul ! This gives folks a reason why sometimes electrical issues are expensive. Not just for the parts but the diagnosis.
I agree that sometimes there is a time and place for throwing a part at an intermittent, time-consuming issue, especially if you have a good idea where the issue is and if the part is not expensive.
This is where experience comes in handy.
Haha I so want to throw a engine wire harness at a trk at work. Been to the shop 3 times already and got towed in again last Friday. Wiring issues each time and every time I open the wire harness I find and fix more broken wires. Every time the issue it comes in with is fixed, it isn’t the same circuit or issue, it’s a different one each time. Wiring issues can be the worst.
@matthewzoelle9149 what ever happened to that truck?
You are an awesome mechanic and also a very kind hearted person with a conscience, it's easy to see in all your videos....When I mention shotgun parts in my videos, I'm always thinking, what would happen on ScannerDanner's channel, lol.
There is sometimes a need to make a decision even when we are not 100% positive. That where we live, weighing expense of diagnosis vs parts at every turn.
Thank you.
Thank you my friend
You guys are "REAL TECH'S" wish I had employees that are so persistent in resolving issues well done.
I think one of the missing components in our field is not charging the proper amount of testing time (diagnostic time). Not saying you're not doing that, but it MUST start up front! If you're charging enough for this stuff, then you can afford to pay the type of technician that can handle these at a 98% accuracy on the first "call". Then in turn, this gives you as the garage owner the confidence to sell that time! It is understandable to not want to charge a large fee for testing when you don't have confidence in your tech, or you have a tech that is only correct 50% of the time. If your missing either component (up front sales, or a tech who isn't capable) it simply will not work and the shop will not make money on these!
Thank you for the comment! My reply was directed at the automotive community as a whole, not you, so thanks for the opportunity!
Awesome diagnosis and persistence for a win. You guys rock and the customers are so Lucky to have techs like you and Danner out there. Thanks so much for another great video
This is the second time I run across this same problem on chevy express vans. The first one was an older model one at a junk yard I do Mobile auto repair for. The fix on that particular van was a fused jumper wire because it was really intermittent, and that was my best solution at the moment. I now have a newer model van at my shop with the same bank acting up. I will make sure to look inside the fuse box for the burnt solder joint. Thank you so much for your awesome videos they are really informative in many way. 👏
Thank you!
This 2 part series is a classic, the whispering and moving light footedly when the intermittent appears 😁😁😁
I really enjoyed the waveform analysis at the end, I probably wouldn’t have seen that. Well done Paul 👍👏👏👏
I believe this job at 90 percent of shops would have been mis diagnosed. I bet a ecm and injector would have been thrown at it, and it wouldn't have fixed it. These videos help me remember to check everything even the fuse box. Thank you for helping all of us
And most shops claim those good parts were bad.
Nice find Danner boys!! And you’re 100% right about how to get paid for this stuff, Paul! (It can be done!) Good shops are doing it! It’s about communication (both verbally and by sharing in writing the process and the steps) and knowing when the stopping points are… where you ask for more time, AND MONEY! Really it’s about mutual trust. When you earn it, and the customer offers it, the world just seems to revolve with a few less “misfires!” Lol! Great training vid as usual!✌️
Thanks Jeremy!
Eric O's vice grip ground clamp would have come in handy for the bumpy ride. It would be a fun little project to run that to a B &C connector, or maybe a banana plug.
Great video! I work on polaris and can am, and all my customers do nothing but mud ride their atvs and sxs, so I'm used to going after corroded fuse boxes, connectors, etc. But I always hate intermittent electrical issues. Sometimes the customer tells me that it only does it when he is driving through a pond, and I'm like great...
Lol that's crazy and something I never considered with other fields. I'm gonna mention this sometime for sure and give you credit
@@ScannerDanner absolutely! Thanks for all the education you provide us!
great job another mystery solved this one really ran you through your paces ... love the videos it was quite the journey on this one cant wait to se the next one
Awesome video guys. the testing and end results looking at solder joints on fuse circuit board was just what was needed for the end of video. Great troubleshooting paul and great work on the Camera Beau
Thanks buddy. Agree, that was the icing on the cake to shed all doubts
@@ScannerDanner fix mu 2011 express by re solder.
Glad there was an actual visual of the failure especially when usually you cant see it
So Many great lessons in sd vids. I love how he never edits mistakes or struggles he encounters along the way. For example in this video the test ground lead was loose. That's a whole lesson in its self. I dont see a lot of other content providers doing this..
Kevin, where you a former student of mine? I think you were. Thank you either way
@@ScannerDanner Yup. In your very first class.
I have my own shop and doing great. I really don't think I could have done it with out your influence. The courage and confidence I built by studying your content changed my life. I love you man.
@@kevinminor2558 that's awesome Kevin! I knew I recognized your name and you've been following for a very long time too! Thanks again for this comment Kevin
Electronically, the injector solenoid is opened by the 12v so when that drops off, the solenoid will proportionate open less far because it needs 12 to 14v to pull the solenoid fully open.
The coil, as you stated, has a transistor switching on the coil and it is entirely possible that 1v is enough to trigger the transistor to open and the coil boosts the voltage from 12v to 60,000v, so even if the power to the coil drops to 6v, you still have 30,000v at the plug which is plenty to fire the plug.
I was soooo pissed at the end of part 1 bc I didnt know there was a part two. I hope im not disappointed in part two!😂. I hope you got it fixed in time for your workout!
If I post a part 1 video on YT, there will always be at least a part 2. I won't do open ended videos.
Awesome video!!!! intermittent problems can be a real pain. You nailed it watching for voltage dropouts on your scope. Thanks for posting this case study!!!!
Very nice finish, being able to validate the diagnosis with a deep dive into the problem component. Also highlighting the best path to making a profit on the repair
been down this road intermittent faults are a pain a great video showing how you found the problem ,using you experience and skill it would be easy to keep changing parts but you stuck to your principles and got to the cause well done
Thanks Glenn!
I'm glad you were able to find the problem. I have a GM delivery truck (exact same setup as your work van) in my shop which is plaguing me with the EXACT same issue. Now I have a much better idea.
Update: just did the autopsy on the box. Yup, same bad solder in the exact same spot.
Nice find. Dealers get around this by quoting out a new engine wiring harness and a new fuse block. $4500 estimate. 🤣
Sometimes a very high quote is put in place to cover all of the "could be's" simply because the symptoms cannot be duplicated and they want the nightmare job to just go away. Not saying that is the right approach but I've seen all that many times.
@@ScannerDanner Provided that that "Could Be" is what is "actual". Sometimes these dealerships will charge that $4500 and figure out early on that the harness isn't needed- But will bill it out anyway sense the quote was approved.
It's a very sad commentary, but one that does happen. (This is why I always say "Save the old parts")
But to talk to the video itself, and while I do work as a tech working on arcade games: Yes, cold solder joints and burnt/toasted connectors are the bane of our existence. It takes a methodical approach using logic and not getting frustrated. This is the reason I like watching videos from your channel, South Main Auto, Rain-man Ray, and of course ETCG. (And why I do NOT watch a certain content creator that suggested using compression fittings on a brake line....But that's another story LOL)
Great diagnosis these vans known for fuse box/harness problems we have some in the company I work for and they have fuse boxes lying around
For sure this seems like a common issue now that I've seen the cause being sub par solder being used
Perfect diagnostic.very interesting videos from your channel.thanks.perfect caleb, perfect james danner& perfect paul.love and all good for you from germany.
Back in the day we worked on a lot of one type of car. The fuel pump relay would drop out. The fuse box sockets for the relay would heat up and expand enough to loose contact. We were able to get a replacement socket strip. You would cut it as needed, bend it to fit in the box. Later on when the repair strip was discontinued, ran the four wires outside the box and installed a external relay. FCA did a few years back on their Jeeps. It was a factory TSB repair for the dealership.
I was wondering if the ground was off with that many Volt drops and yet no change in driver ability. Excellent diag work sir.
Excellent video Paul nice troubleshooting and find. 👍
In looking at the failure mode the bank injector supply has a variable resistance fault, and this results in the pulsing waveform shown momentarily on the scope. If the injector supply is high resistance then when an injector fires the supply should drop, as was shown on the scope, with moments where the injector pulse form a type of square wave every time one turns on.
To repair the bad solder joint you would first have to pull the two boards apart. Obviously, to make the repair, but also to enable a complete inspection of all the joints. You could separate the two boards using a vacuum disordering station in about 15 minutes. In doing the repair you would also clean and lubricate all of the component pins using Deoxit D100. Meaning you would have to pull all of the components one at a time, apply Deoxit, and reinstall.
There is a definite pattern of failure modes which rely on a PCB interconnect as part of the fuse block (box). The failure mode is a failed solder joint. But, how it fails can be very complex and intermittent, which is counter intuitive to many Mechanics with troubleshooting experience with the older fuse blocks without a PCB. More specifically, the likely hood of a variable resistance failure is much greater with PCB soldered joints than a fuse open due to corrosion. Making the diagnosis more difficult is that it requires a scope, a DMM is just too slow.
A high resistance connection can lead to Printed Circuit Board damage if it is a high current circuit which generates heat. Many times the PCB trace can also be repaired is burned open.
Nice find.. Tough problem having an intermittent like that.
One potential fix for the solder joint is to bore a hole through the outer board making sure you're not hitting any traces and it looks like there aren't any and then cleaning up and re-soldering the joint through the hole you make. Of course replacing the whole thing which will cost more gives the customer a new one and other places where there may be degradation are corrected.
I see you were on the right track. Good find. Since I do this work also I’m watching these videos as I would process it like I’m doing it. Thinking out loud sort of thing. Hope it doesn’t come across as criticism. Really enjoy the videos.
Not at all, you do what helps you absorb the information best. Thanks!
Great place for the fuse box..under brake master cylinder and resevoir! Chevy for the win!
25:13 Gasoline vapors can also explode at atmospheric pressure if the air/fuel ratio is in a suitable range. Techs often drain fuel pumps into oil caddies. One time, a co-worker decided to do some welding and used an oil caddy to catch the sparks. To this day, it was the loudest explosion I've ever heard. I was about 7 bays away. It's also important to not allow random people into the shop who may use the oil caddys as cigarette trays.
Lol why in the hell would you use an oil caddy to catch sparks?
The bad solder joint reminded me of the video you made on a '99 Honda accord with intermittent no start, it had a cracked solder joint on the PGM-FI relay post.
Great video. I was disappointed that you couldn't find it. But you did! Love those types of problems very challenging intermediates and also require luck if say
Love your T-shirt SD😍
#WeDon'tWorkForFree#
Love this slogan👆, that's a great one you created😍
Loved the details & the plan of attack, Thanks for sharing SD😍
Stay Safe & Blessed Danner Family❤
Here is the link to part 1 czcams.com/video/wcifwQKDUrE/video.html
Gracias por tu video 📹 tengo el mismo
Problema mañana reviso mi caja de fusibles God bless you!
Hey Paul i got gmc envoy denali myself and have pretty much the same problem and the cooper tracks indside the fuse box were loosing contact each other i just resolder them with a better quality rosin core solder just to let you know God Bless you man
Hello from México!
Feels like I've been waiting a decade for part 2!
Haha just a week buddy 😅
@@ScannerDanner I want to say thank you Paul. Because of this video I dug deep into my fuse box, full disassembly. Found a few loose pins inside the block it self and realized my ignition relay was installed backwards from the previous owner or a previous mechanic. I'm thinking by having that relay installed backwards might be the reason I have been melting ignition coils. Hoping this fixes the dreaded p300 and code random misfires I get. 2004 Chevy Avalanche 2500 8.1l I have been watching your channel for many years and absolutely appreciate what you do. Thank you again sir.
@@RageKage1776 no wonder you couldn't wait for part 2! Good providence to you my friend
I was so hoping you would go back and talk about the correlation with the voltage drop and current flow across the ckt showing higher voltage drop on the coils and less with the injectors.
Would have been cool to sync up on the other bank and really gear out.
I was thinking if the used a 4 wire coil with feedback (Toyota IGF) then codes would have possibly set along with injector codes.
Great study material especially with the final thoughts on a clear voltage drop.
Another intermittent problem solved. Good job, good video.
Thank you for the links
Danner was on the right track when he originally changed that fuse. Problem being
right below in that circuitry. Agree that intermittent problems really can get time
consuming!
If you didn't like the video please say why! Do you know something we don't?
Great video thanks.
good video glad to see happen .i imaging fuse box that have circuit board are more prone to have intermitant issue .because of soldering cracks then of non circuit board .thanks great video
GOOD CALL, GOOD JOB
I watched another few similar videos from SMA (corrosion) and Advance Level Automotive (ants nest inside the fuse box) on Chevy Express fuse box related issues due to water intrusion or rodents damage. Seems like it's pretty common problem on GM vans.
I had a similar problem tightening up the fuse box bolts fixed it
Great value video. Thanks a lot brother 🫡
Paul geetings man hope you're good keep doing well God Bless you all
very useful information thanks for taking your time to show and explain
I think your brother actually enjoyed using those side cutters Paul tearing that plastic off above the board. Sometimes with a problem like this, it feels good to take your aggression out🤣🤣😁😁.
Haha for sure!
Just recently I did a central locking fault on a Kia Rio.
Previous tech had thrown 3 BCMs at it but the drive relays are in the fusebox.
It's a sandwich construction like this one but there were more pins all the way round.
I had made the call it needed a new fusebox.
For parts availability reasons and with customer agreement I ended up mashing the old double relay with the side cutters then de-soldering the remains from the top of the board.
I fitted the replacement relay on some extension wires, as there was room to do so.
Those fuseboxes seem reasonably priced from GM.
Since GM sold Vauxhall (and Opel) to PSA, the quality of the dealer parts has dropped and the price has gone way up.
you know I Had the same issue just a couple weeks ago on 2014 k2500 truck 2500 drove me insane so in sane I swore to figure it out free as no vehicle has ever beaten me and it turned out to be the alternator I would get a short load draw off the alternator and it was enough to cause the right bank to lose signal for a second
Sweet.. you found the problem. Working for a customer, I can understand -- just buy a new part and be done with it. But if this was my truck, I would have tried to just re-solder that joint. Maybe heat a long nail red hot with a torch and stab it in there to re-melt the solder. I think it was doable. I wouldn't do it for a customer though-- you don't want something like that coming back again. Just get the new part
Man, that alternator should be fixed ASAP as it destroys the battery and, possibly, other circuits. And overheats, too.
Other than this, the fuse box could be repaired easily by an electronics technician. No need for removing the upper board or anything like this.
Cheers!
im working on a 2016 express 4.8, same exact issue, found high resistance on bank 1 injector circuit in the fuse box itself, just ordered a new box from GM, this vehicle had a HARD missfire, bank 1 was completely dead, we ran a wire from bank 2 at the injector harness which had solid 12/13 volts to bank 1 "temporarily", which brought bank 1 back to life as we wait for the new box to arrive.
wow that was suspenseful. might be good for the channel to do a collab with Louis Rossmann to see if and how he'd be able to get to that solder connection without pulling apart the whole thing. i've had cold solder connections that you couldn't even spot with the naked eye causing intermittent failure on my audio equipment. my band's active speakers were going out years ago and repeated misdiagnosis caused this to happen during multiple shows, which had a very costly effect on our relationship with the venue. this seems to be a recurring problem where the solder joint is also supposed to serve as the mechanical connection for a connector that interfaces with something that gets plugged and unplugged. the point to point wiring of the old equipment was vastly more reliable in this respect because the mechanical connection and the electrical connection of the connector were separate elements. i believe this contributes somewhat to musicians' fondness for vintage gear.
I like the smack test 😂
Nice job team Danner👍👌🔧☺
I have a 2015 Express 6.0. I got a No Start a few times. First time, I suspected the Fuel Pump relay. Wiggled it and got it to start, but in Low Power mode, but then an hour later it worked fine. The forums said fuse panel, took it to mechanic and they replaced the fuel pump because they thought they saw high voltage. Did it again, I replaced the relay and wiggled stuff. Did it again and just wiggled it. Then, I took the fuse panel out (even though it seemed way over my league), but I didn’t see anything. I cleaned some with alcohol, and put it all back together. It’s been fine since November…but I’m probably on thin ice.
I agree, but you can see that it is possible to get to some of these solder joints and reflow them. But this panel was cheap (under $200) and is a plug and play (no programming needed) so you should just get one imo
@@ScannerDanner yup...i should definitely get one and put it on...at home, in the shade, in my free time. That would be a heck of lot better than it crapping out somewhere, needing a tow, finding rides for my passengers, etc. But, I'm pretty thick headed so I'll probably just wait til it breaks.
@@ClassicNathan lol, I'm the same way buddy
Nice work! Us technicians really hate intermittent problems! They are the ultimate time wasters! These problems promote bad work ethic for most technicians which cause the shot gun method
Called it on the Facebook post!
And put the firing order on the voltage drops
same issues we get at our shop when diagnoseing and predictions.
how much time in labour to 100% confirm fuse box for the small price relatively to eliminate (and fix in this case) i had a ford focus rs 2.5 throwing codes 4 main and different codes with them sometime the 4 main didnt show i didnt want to call pcm untill when it went to limp mode codes would nt clear tap pcm all codes cleared drove no fault replaced pcm so far so good thanks for giving me confidence to do so ps ivan at pine hollow would have fixed the fuse box (russian repair)
One of the best vids so far and what you charge your bro 👍
Thanks so much! Oh and I dont charge my brother anything. You guys pay me for these by watching and sharing
For me, I have lots of work that I know I can do. For example, I know I will be able to get brakes done. For stuff that has a chance that I can’t fix it, I will either just turn the work down, or tell the customer that if I can’t figure it out real quick then I can’t get into it. Sometimes, just 10 min of looking at it can prove something. Then if it doesn’t , I don’t mind not charging for 10 min. At that point you could say, I know a guy, but he charges this minimum amount to even think about it. Give them some time to check around if they must. This way they can realize your the best option.
📷 man thank you 🎥 amazing bo
What do you call PRODIGY, SUBSTANTIAL, KNOWLEDGEABLE the answer is Sir ScannerDanner
Start to finish tutorial amazing thank you
Take care and have a great day
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Dang nice video man that was something else and like you said yes you've got a book who load of time you bring all your experience all your knowledge so yes mechanics should get paid love the video
Thanks John!
Lol the video is great and funny at the same time lol😂
two, or three hours diagnostic and you or your brother will only get paid 1 hour for diagnostic, no, no, not. acceptable. thank you for this video, and your time.
Love the shirt Paul. I hate to admit I’m an aging man🥺. 5 grandchildren and I’m only 54
But 5 grandchildren! Who cares, you're a young grandfather. Just spent a week at the beach with Caleb and my first grandkid and I'm going through withdrawal 😪 I miss her so much already
If you ever wander to the San Francisco Bay Area, dinner is on me ....
i wish i could find a tech that would do this level of work where i live, my truck had a random misfire that only happens for a few seconds once a month or so, its rare but annoying when it happens
They are around, but they are not cheap! I'm starting a list of garages who train under me to make available to the public. Would that be something that interests you?
Why the Fuse Box is not inside the Cab, baffles me. A design flaw, seen, in many vehicles. Outside fuse panels, are exposed to the harshest elements. I am sure much money is lost to inept or sinister shops. Any upgrades or recall bulletins? My Astro is an interior box.
I want to take my weird ass car down to Danner for an in person diagnostic because I know it's gonna be some shit like this lol
Great video & great work from a fellow technician! I find myself asking what caused the initial fuse to burn & possibly melt the connection in the fuse box?( like high amp draw from a coil shorting) or did the high resistance in the fuse box cause the initial burned fuse? I ran into a very similar issue in a saturn Vue and the fuse box fixed the issue as well but I was nervous I possibly had a intermittent coil issue.
This never had a blown fuse from my memory. ? Thanks!
@ScannerDanner It had a different fuse. ( color was different then all the other 20amp fuses) My thought was it had blown in the passed or its possible someone else swapped it thinking it was blown when it wasn't.
@diyracing3049 oh yeah, I was struggling with that too. I couldn't connect the dots, and then I asked my brother and he said he changed it and not because it was blown. That conversation is in this series somewhere. Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner That makes perfect sense. Thank you!
Greetings from California.
Sell a fuse box, or run a fused wire inline to the power side of the injectors? Cheaper and faster fix
When one circuit is like this in that fuse box, more of them are going to be the same! This part turned out to be less than $200 and was the way to go, don't you think?
@@ScannerDanner well, I would probably ask customer if they want fuse box and present them with your logic, but offer them alternative of the inline fuse wire with the risk that, there could be other circuits that would need care if you go that route. However, if thats the only problem and thats all they are concerned about… they may choose wire. I dont blame you for box at all. Wire would be fast, cheap, and not waiting for the part
What a complicated situation these failures are. And using the thermal camera in the fuse box would not have had an indication of the problem.? And to avoid changing the entire fuse box, it could be that it could be fed directly with a cable to the bank that had problems, of course, with its respective external fuse?.
That pattern shows why you always test a circuit loaded the low voltage drops are only when a load is present and the voltage is good with no load.
Exactly!
Please.. take your gold ring off your hand. Love the video. Tks.
Finely part 2
I’m still watching this video right now but I wanted to throw out this thought as I’m watching. You’re speaking about four circuits at the fuse box. When I’m in diag of something like this I’m still keeping in mind that all circuits sharing the fuse would feel the effect of a partial ground. Is my thinking right?
That is correct and that would blow the fuse. But we found later that fuse was replaced by my brother and that a blown fuse was never part of the problem. Things we learned along the way 🙂
I'm going to guess the problem was caused by a fuse not being fully inserted or corrosion causing terminal heating to cook the solder joint out. it's also possible that long term overcurrent from failing injector or ignition coil could have caused it, just below the fuse blowing threshold. then again, there's so many bad fuses out there.
same thing happens with relays with failing contacts, they overheat and it travels down the pin cooking the solder joint at the board and the board itself! dryers, washers, fridge, oven, dishwasher, (infinite device list). 🤬
Hey man first thing i want thank you for the video, i have the same issue, my question is, my fuse is good is not blown, still the chance of a bad fuse box?
Absolutely. Did you see the end where we opening up the fuse box? This wasn't a blown fuse either from what I remember
@@ScannerDanner Yes i see it 👍🏻, thank you so much for you help, i'll get a new fuse box tomorrow and see what happens, i'll keep you update!
In los angeles / southern california what is excellent electriacal diag shop that do what 10 shops couldn't diagnose. I have a 2003 dodge hemi 1500 with big problems communicating with pcm every shop repl. pcm with new get same results do any one know a good shop went to 5 dealerships cost more same results. THANKS help!!!!!
!!!
Great video this is always a slippery slope it suck’s not having 100% proof to show the customer but you can only spend so much time on a vehicle usually after 1 hour at my shop you are done with it let them take it and bring it back unless you are close enough to make your call
Hey Paul it looks like the water diverter that clips on the driver's rear corner of the fender above computer and fuse box is missing ??? Black piece of plastic says do not remove on it added later on by the dealer .
Maybe I took it off? Can't remember. But this issue wasn't from water intrusion. This was expansion and contraction of a solder joint over 180k miles. But good eye and something that we should have caught too!
@@ScannerDanner I understand and agree with you 💯 .. I was just saying that the diverter was missing to prevent future issues . I had water intrusion in the computer of same van and green coated fuse box . The diverter was missing and so was the fuse box cover 😳 . Thank you for all you do !!!
Immediately clicked on this. Bout time. 😁
Yeah sorry, we were on vacation last week
@@ScannerDanner no apologies needed. Great content is worth waiting for.
@@travisdecker3496 thank you Travis
You can't trust those redrawn wiring diagrams to show connectors. You need to look up the OEM wiring diagrams and make sure there isn't a connector--- but even then, the odds of all 4 wires consistently dropping at the same time are not likely. The problem is at the source/ at the fuse. It would be great to see you crack open that fuse box and see what the fuse is actually connecting to. Are there wires in the fuse box, or is it just a circuit board? I'd love to see inside
99.5% of the time the Mitchell re-drawn diagrams are on point. In fact, I prefer them 😉
@@ScannerDanner I do too. They are easier to read. but I just watched a Soutmain Auto video, where Eric had the exact same style diagram, and it was just straight colored lines-- but when he looked up the OEM diagram, there was actually a connector there. Just saying: It's not always perfect. Just like scan tools are not always perfect-- and checking second source diagram/ or second scanner, can get you the missing answers.
Ok so I have an very frustrating case study im doing you helped me with advise on this one before but now I'm down to one of two things being the issue now for it. So basically someone did the crank sensor on my uncles 2000 jeep grand cherokee 4.7l 45rfe transmission. It didn't keep it from limp mode cause the real issue I belive is pcm. If you have an minute answer this question. I keep getting no reading for the line preasure sensor to transmission I've switched out both line preasure sensor and trans siliniod pack inside the transmission but still getting NA readings for line pressure in trans. Then looked at new code which said poor or no comes between pcm and other moduals being transmission modual and bcm. Could this be in the harness or sound like pcm? They replaced pcm 6 years ago. Thanks for you knowledge and time!
What is the line psi sensor signal wire measure with a voltmeter right at the module?
I may have miss understood your explanation about the problem could not be in the harness because you could not have all four injector wires corrode at the same time. With a parallel circuit, one fuse feeding everything, one wire going to ground anywhere will short out the voltage to ALL the wires in the system. Could you please clarify your statement that the problem could not have been down stream of the the fuse box?
The scenario I mentioned before I knew that my brother was the one that changed the fuse and that, the fuse was NOT replaced because it blew:
1. Any part of any of the circuit that touches ground could blow the fuse. This could have explained the injector codes.
2. This would not have explained the intermittent nature because fuses dont fix themselves. So I then proceeded to suggest that maybe the wire that hypothetically was touching ground is now corroded and no longer touching ground and is causing intermittent voltage drops on that circuit.
3. This was ruled out as not possible due to all of the wires going back to the fuse box itself with no series circuit branch outside of the box. Had there been a single feed wire outside the box that then branched to parallel, then my far fetched scenario could have been plausible.
Lol make sense?
Make sense now. I guess my thinking was much less probable. It was your corroded wire was touching ground enough to drop voltage but not blow the fuse. Yours had a higher probability of happening. Proof is in the results. My Hat is off to you.
This is not the only profession that has to find problems. You make some valad points but in all fields sometimes you have to eat a loss. In the grocery business you buy produce but only sell 90 percent of of product before spoilage. How do you charge for that. Jobs have to average out.
Keep up the good work 👍
@ScannerDanner, I got conflicted information regarding to how much pag oil I should add to a compressor in the following case. Let's assume the system has no leak but the freon is low on the car due to normal freon lossing during years of service. First, I will completely vacuum the system and then put on the correct amount of freon by weight referring to car specification. Q> How much pag oil should I add to the system for this specific case? Thank you!
Are you replacing the compressor or any parts?
First, you have a leak and need to fix it. The system will not just lose refrigerant over time. My 09 Silverado still has the original charge in it and is working perfectly 13 years later.
Second, in most circumstances you won't need to add any oil. Maybe 1 ounce at most. Very small leaks on r134a systems, you won't have big oil loses, if any
@@hubertfroggin27 no.
@@ask43242flight 96 Chevy 1500 firing order