How to Use Pioneer KWIK-E-VAC® Lineset Flushing Kit for Mini Split Systems
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- čas přidán 20. 09. 2020
- This video will show you how to use KWIK-E-VAC to flush the lineset of air and moisture in order to install your mini split air conditioner.
- Věda a technologie
Works well I have used it on 3 different units, including one non-Pioneer unit. I had some minor modifications for the non pioneer unit connecting to the service port, otherwise worked well.
I did once receive a can with a bad valve stem once, luckily I had another to swap out. I have pulled regular vacuum in the past, this just makes it a quicker process.
I was skeptical until I heard of how they run AC lines down elevator shafts in high rises just blow Freon and refrigerating down the lines , then they test for leaks.
*This unit works like a charm. Keeps my room 20 x 20 very **Fastly.Cool** . I recommend to anyone that wants to keep a room cold without having to turn on the main a/c.*
Did you install it using this method?
You're saying a $35 Flush Kit keeps your room cool?
on amazon someone suggested - changing order. -seems to make sense- So the instructions say to purge the line, connect the line and then pressure test.
I would connect the lines, pressure test under the full pressure of the can, loosen the one fitting closest to you (farthest down the line) and then purge for a bit and then tighten and pressure test with the remainder.
My old Fujitsu, with lower pressure testing requirements, worked with this, but my new Samsungs require a final pressure test of 600psi...! I don't know what the pressure rating of the can is, but I can probably guess, it's not 600... But I found a leak in the line set by pressure testing first before purging! Which is why I recommend the instructions swap
on second thought maybe it doesn't make sense- because you needed to disconnect to flush.
This is really nifty but I still believe in the triple evac procedure using a vacuum pump and pressure testing with nitrogen once done.
The final step says keep valve closed to release pressure, but that's not right, you have to open the valve, right?
Seems to me when you open the can at the beginning, let it run for about 20 seconds then hook up line while can is still open to pressurize system then check for leaks. No leaks unhook can.
Can I run this on my semi truck?
I wonder what loophole in the epa regulations allows this. This is just the old purge and go lol.
Will this work on a previously installed unit? We didn’t pull a vacuum and mini split does not work (cool) will this fix that?
No you need to call an hvac tech sounds like you have a leak
Ok- I understand the vacuum part and holding the negative pressure part. My question is- kwik-e-vac is just nitro gas in a can? So after vacuum- can I use the Kwik-e-Vac as a nitro test for possible leaks?
Not enough pressure need to get a bottle of nitro and a regulator to pressure test up to 500-600 psi
There is absolutely no need to pressure test 500-600 psi like the other comment claimed, you can absolutely use KWIK-E-VAC to pressure test.BUT make sure to inspect the can very closely to make sure it has no leaks(as many do), it is fully capable of building enough pressure to leak test. Just leave the bottle connected for 30-40 minutes checking at 10 minute intervals just to be sure with very soapy water at the connections.
OK, as always I can still find questions. For starters, both of my lines have a service port. I suspect that may be for something else, but just checking. The line side we connect to is the low pressure side, the larger line. Am I correct? Is this step to do a pressure check? I was going to use this step instead of a nitrogen check. Then I would come back with the vacuum step and hole it at a negative 30 for an hour to give is a double-check. Do you think anyone has an opinion?
How did you check the half-can deal - seems a little funky. I could use a postal scale and go with half the weight? Would that make any sense?
I'm being a little cautious till I get some better experience.
I'm using a 2-ton LG unit.
Douglas
My lines are 20'- give a take.
Is the service port valve open or closed in this procedure
I would think service valve remains closed at this time during flush process, just doing lineset including loop to and from evaporator.I would say use quick precision reconnect high side fitting just after you detect contents from can coming out of that fitting.Take your time reading all instructions carefully before starting flush.watch video several times to get it right.you only have 1 shot at this.
I'm not certain that this method ensures removal of ALL moisture in the system. I own a professionally installed 3 ton system which has worked flawlessly for 21 years. I have factory-built window ACs still cooling effectively after 20 years. None of these units have ever needed refrigerant added. Will a system installed using KWIK-E-VAC operate 20 years without degradation?
At 2:29 when the can is removed to let out the remaining pressure, I know gas is flowing out of the lines, but it seems that if you do not time the removal of the hose from the mini-split properly, wouldn't you end up with air in your lines.
I think I would unscrew the line from the service port, then the line would stay pressurized. Wouldn't they?
I’ve ordered and received this Kwik-e-vac. Is this compatible with the R410A, that is in my AUX mini split?
I’m afraid to use it, and can’t seem to find this information on line. I don’t want to ruin my new mini split.
I was wondering the same thing. Only makes sense, but assumption can be disastrous.
They say it works with any Minisplit using 410a
Cant you just use a dryer agent too? Converts moisture to an oil
Both cans had hoses that the centerpiece that pushes in that pin broke immediately making these things useless to me
i am assuming ALL connections are spray checked while under can pressure???
No need to assume, that's exactly what the video states.
Why can't you use a can of 134a?
Because only vehicle hvac systems use 134A. Residential and commercial units use either R22 if they are older than 2012 or R410A of they are newer Tham 2012
@@techdaddy7955 134a is compatible with 410a. You could use it.
@@techdaddy7955 Dead wrong. i have a preptable True brand thats 134A and a Soft server Taylor brand that uses 134a for its hopper.. both mid 2000s models... they are commercial of course.. nothing i have uses r22 its either 134 or 404
If this were not a Pioneer product, given that Pioneer sells mini-splits, I would call BS on this method of removing moisture from the lines. Everything I have researched on clearing the lines of the triple-deadly dreaded system-killing moisture requires the moisture be vaporized by drawing a vacuum and then purging with nitrogen THREE times. The repeated nitrogen purges are for heating moisture that may be frozen in the lines by the vacuum process. Oil in the vacuum pump gathers the moisture. As an aside, there is a Schrader valve (like a tire valve stem core) in the port where the Kwik-E-Vac connection is made. Not saying it is normally a problem, just saying it may hamper the flow of whatever is in this can. Speaking of that, the lines are now filled with whatever is in that can (nitrogen? dry air? heaven forbid, refrigerant?) and then you open the valves to run refrigerant into the lines that are already full of something?? So the opening of the video makes it clear you have already purged the lines with nitrogen before you ever use the can, since all the can does is replace the evacuation process. Very Confused.
Well, I finally found out what is in that can. "Contains: 1,1-Difluoroethane", which, by the way is flammable. The instructions say not to light it off, or else. It is sometimes called Freon 152. It is refrigerant, but one of the more benign ones to the planet; not good for it, just less harmful than some. I assume it sucks up moisture. www.pioneerminisplit.com/products/kwik-e-vac-line-set-flushing-kit-for-mini-split-air-conditioning-systems for complete instructions. oh, and it can cause heart attack. Check out en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1-Difluoroethane
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Thank you for doing the research! I was wondering.
A long, long time ago, when refrigerant was dirt cheap, it was common to use refrigerant with a similar procedure!
Can you say this is short form i don't get what you're saying? That stuff is only dangerous to you if you purposely misuse it also i have seen many mini splits installed and they never use nitrogen even though you are supposed to but it's just to check for leaks before you release the freon into the lines then when you pull a vacuum it takes out anything in the lines so its only purpose it for leak detection i have a mini spit the ac guy never even did a vacuum on he just purged the lines and it's doing fine years later so i guess that way works too
I don't know anything about this method I saw it on their website it must work or they wouldn't recommend it
Wear safety glasses.
Why? I've done this to my system and at no point was there anything flying around that would have hurt my eyes that I can tell. Same thing with gloves, why?
Does work a joke!
Just pull a proper Vacuum. Jesus people.
I agree. I know that during the vacuum process you check to see if it holds a vac once you turn the pump off and if it doesn't then you have a leak. But I guess one advantage of this KWIK-E-VAC method is that it lets you pressure check the system which makes it easier to locate where the leak is (with soap).
The average DIY'er doesn't know how to do that. I tried to call 3 different HVAC companies to come out and vacuum the system but they won't come out unless they installed the mini-split themselves. So this is really my only option.
This is so stupid, put a vacuum on the system! Don’t have one? Call an hvac tech
You wouldn't be an HVAC techie, would you?
In some markets, techs charge too much and can do more harm than good.
I called many. No one would come out because I installed the unit myself.
Most of them if they didn't install it they won't touch
How about you pay for the tech!!! Everyone can't afford one