Alpha One Gen 2 Outdrive Repair
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- Replacing the gimbal bearing, bellows and seals on a 2005 Alpha One Generation 2 outdrive. Total cost was about $350 but I used all OEM gaskets and bellows and included the purchase of some special tools. The hardest part was attaching the exhaust bellows to the bell housing.
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Video helped me prepare for doing mine. Ordered OEM bellows and gimbal bearing. Went pretty smooth, thanks again!
Randy - great video thanks. I have watched about 8 of these videos getting ready for my project and yours is the most coherent. Happy boating...
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. Good luck with your project
@@randyj7476 Hi Randy - project went well. Quick question. You said you broke off the small piece on the transom side that attached the gear-oil sender tube. I did the same thing. The fix I found in the forums was either "remove engine" to get at the fixture from the boat side or plug the hole and manually check the gear-oil level in the outdrive. How did you resolve this on your boat?
@@joecusack1525 There was a c-clip I believe or it was a similar type clip. I reached way behind the engine and disconnected the hose from the coupling. Once the hose was off I just removed the clip. That is the only thing holding that part in place. I was then able to just pull it out from the outside. I can't believe that some forums say to remove the engine. Wow. I guess it may be tighter on some model boats but in my case I had room. I really had to stretch though.
@@randyj7476 thanks Randy. I plugged it but am not pleased with it - might try your way and see what I can get done.
@@randyj7476 Hi Randy - I hope you see this. I need to buy the part we are referencing here and cannot find it. Can you please tell me the part number?
Very helpful to see your techniques and where you had difficulty. Excellent video!
Thanks
Big help my friend thanks. wish we could have seen the struggle of putting on the bellows and hoses.
Glad the video helped. Yeah I was so involved with fixing the problem that I didn't capture all my struggles. My video capturing kind of got a little neglected during the process.
great job Randy
Thanks
Great video, sir!
Thank You
Looks good great job
Great video thanks!
Good job! Thank you
Thanks
I’m currently in the same project times 2. Question on the water intake hose transom side. What tips and tricks do you have to installing that on transom side?
I don't really have any special tricks or tips. I did learn that it was impossible for me to install the water inlet hose on the transom after it is already attached to the bell housing. You just don't have the room or space to work. I had to remove the hose from the bell housing and attach it to the transom first then you can attach to the bell housing. I did find it easier to use a 5/16" ,1/4" drive socket (since they are smaller than 3/8" drive) and ratchet with a long extension to tighten the hose clamp rather than a long flat tip screwdriver but either one will work.
Hi , did you use an exhaust bellows stretching tool; Exhaust Bellows Expander Tool 91-45497A1 to get the exhaust bellows attached ?
No, I didn't have that tool. I used a couple zip ties like shown in this clip. czcams.com/video/jJVfDbhwkwU/video.html
Thank you for your service! Semper Fortis Semper Paratus! Near Virginia? How was the test ride on the boat Post Outdrive maintenance? Any water?
Yes, I'm in Virginia. I took the boat to the lake and kept it on the water for a week straight. No leaks and it ran great/smooth with no issues whatsoever.
Thanks for the response brother!
Great video. Thinking i may have to do mine in the next year or 2. What year is the boat ? Mine is an 07 195 br and i think they are original
If you are going to replace your bellows then my recommendation is do not use aftermarket bellows. Use original OEM. My boat is a 2006 185 BR
Good job
Great video. I have a 2000 Bayliner capri. I have gear oil leaking out of the water intake. Can you tell me what the cost of the parts were and how to figure out what apha drive I have in my boat. Thanks.
The Alpha Gen II upper and lower housings are fastened together with two through bolts on either side of the drive along with the front and rear bolts, while the Gen 1 drives use one stud visible on either side. Alpha Ones have two studs under the ventilation plate just above the prop.
As for the cost of all the parts to fix my drive, I really don't remember. I did buy some tools with all the parts too. I would advise you to get the original OEM bellows and not the cheaper aftermarket ones. They cost a little more but last longer. If you put the cheaper bellows in then you might find yourself replacing them again in just a couple years.
Good luck with your repair.
@@randyj7476 Thanks for the info and advice Randy. I have sunk a lot of time effort and money into this Bayliner that was neglected for more than two years. I have been wondering what it would take to get this thing apart and stop the gear oil leak. I will do some research on the parts and ask my Bayliner owners club for additional information on my particular drive. Thanks again.
The new gear lube fitting that you pushed in...was that just a push in fitting or did you have to secure anything from inside the boat? The part I found on-line shows a C clip holds it in place from inside the boat. I don't have any room inside the boats engine compartment if that is required,
You are correct, it is just a clip that secures it inside.
@@randyj7476 Thanks good to know. I almost paid $1700 for the stealership to replace everything you did, but they couldn't get my boat in for a month and a half. After watching your video I'm almost done replacing everything myself including new Trim senders for less than $500 including purchasing the special tools - gimbal bearing puller/installer, alignment tool, bellow installer tools. I'm just waiting on the final parts to arrive from Amazon. You the man! Thanks for showing people this can be done by the average person!
@@jfisch01 Thanks, That is a great savings. Glad I could help you save some money. Hope everything in the last final steps goes well for you. Happy boating!
great help - thanks. did you change the anodes?
Thanks. No, I didn't replace the anode. Although they were slightly pitted, they were still good and I only run the boat in fresh water lakes so they should last a long time.
Whats the name of the piece you bought. The part that the oil barb broke.also did that part just pull back or was it attached somehow from behind, inside engine compartment?
The part I ordered from Wholesale Marine and the official name and part number is : Gear Lube Reservoir Fitting Assy 90Deg, Mercury - Mercruiser 22-861150T02. There is a hose with a fitting on the end that attaches to the end opposite the barb. If I remember correctly, you have to squeeze that fitting in order for it to release. There was also a clip on the inside of the boat that you have to remove before it will pull out. If I have to do it again in the future I will remove it this way instead of trying to remove the hose from the barb. Less chance of breaking it.
@@randyj7476 thx helped alot. Rebuilding outdrive is pain in butt. After this its time to just buy new boat lol.
Where did you download the manual from? I need to do the same thing. Thanks
Here is the link that I downloaded the service manual from:
www.ta-group.at/dokus/service%20manual%20_14%20alpha%20i%20gen%20ii%20outdrives%201991%20to%20present.pdf
I’m in the same process now and I also broke the monitor gear lube fitting. Can you advise how you found and disconnected it on the engine side to replace it? I’m having issues finding it. Thank you!
follow the gear lube monitor hose down to the fitting on the inside of the boat. There should be a little button that you press on the end of the hose that will release it from the fitting. The you can pull it out from the outside of the boat.
I didn't have to go to this extreme but here is a video of someone pulling it out similar to how I did it.
czcams.com/video/sfS7HXYWtdc/video.html
Awesome, thank you so much for your help!
Great video, very helpful. Do you have a link to the manual you purchased?
Here is the link to the service manual. It's free so you don't need to purchase, just download it.
www.ta-group.at/dokus/service%20manual%20_14%20alpha%20i%20gen%20ii%20outdrives%201991%20to%20present.pdf
@@randyj7476 wow they actually offer one for alpha one GEN one that’s an amazing service manual thanks for sharing. How would I go about finding one for alpha one GEN one
@@FBIsurveillance62 try this link. I did a quick search online and found it. I think it is for the Alpha One Gen 1
dokumen.tips/documents/mercruiser-service-manual-6-outdrives-rmralpha-onealpha-ss.html?page=1
Why not take the lower drive off first to make it lighter? Excellent video!
Thanks. I didn't want to to take it that far apart since I could just take the entire out drive off as one unit. It was heavy but it really wasn't too bad.
With COVID19 ruling out getting some help, I took my drive off that way. The disadvantages are you have to drain the gear oil - fine if you wanted to change it anyway - and putting the top part of the drive back on the gimbal housing can be a challenge. You don't have any means to move the shaft to align the splines with the engine coupler. Putting the complete drive up allows you use the prop to turn the splines until they align but risky for your back and the drive shaft will fight you!
You great job brother
Thanks
@@randyj7476 my sterndrive leaking i thinking tackle that any suggestions
The oil leaking so every time I go I always put a bottle of gear oil
@@alltsab The only advice I can give is take your time. I couldn't even begin to advise on how to fix your leak since I could be leaking from many different places. You can download the manual here and have a look to see if you can narrow down probable places to check.
www.ta-group.at/dokus/service%20manual%20_14%20alpha%20i%20gen%20ii%20outdrives%201991%20to%20present.pdf
Good luck with your project and I hope you are able to locate and fix your leak.
Did the u joint bellows go on the inside of the bell housing where the ring goes ? Thx
Yes, It goes inside the bell housing and the ring goes inside the bellow and sort of keeps it pressed into the groove inside the bell housing.
@@randyj7476 thx for the reply
Awesome you helped me out 👍 thx again
Did you not have to pack the bearing with any kind of Grease or was it a pre-packed bearing already
No, it was a sealed bearing.
@@randyj7476 there's a zerk fitting for that on the starboard side of the bell housing. You're supposed to pump grease into that and clean out the excess
@@desertBirdDogs The new bearing was sealed. It came with a plug for me to remove the zerk fitting and plug it.
overall, how long did it take? Thanks for the video. About to do the same thing in a few days.
I remember just taking my time and I believe I spread it over a couple days because I was filming, reading planning and doing other stuff like removing corrosion and painting. I also broke a part that I had to order. If I had to do it again I think I could do it in about 6 hours or less.
@@randyj7476 all OEM parts? Just curious. Thanks.
@@TripleXess Yes absolutely. Use OEM parts. The bellows are really involved to replace and once you get them replaced you are not going to want to do it in another couple years. Those cheap aftermarket bellows can save you money when you buy them but they don't last as long. You will get the longest life from OEM bellows.
Where did you get the allignment bar?
I ordered it from Amazon but I am sure it is available at many vendors/distributors. Here is the link to the one on Amazon that I purchased:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6JP21M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
damn, ive done a few bellows as a marine tech and have never removed the bell housing, just wedge it up and fight it. Some older boats might break
I guess I'm glad that mine didn't break but I would probably do it the same way if I had to do it again.
Why didn't you align the grease port on the bearing with the grease port on the Gimbal housing?
The new bearing was sealed. It wasn't like the one I removed
@@randyj7476 what do you think the dot on the bearing was for ? and looking at the state of your bellows you must have had water coming into the bilge , also lucky you didn't have starter motor problems
well spotted Kevin as a marine mechanic I normaly have about 4 hours to do it , in Spain , August red hot and the clients waiting
@@jonhockenhull2707 The dot on the bearing is for orientation. I found out later that Mercruiser recommends the dot to be at the 10 o'clock position. As you can see, I installed at 12 o'clock position. I didn't realize until it was all back together. It's been working great all summer. And yes, I did have water coming in through the bellows. That is how I discovered the problem. Didn't really leak too bad until I trimmed the motor up which stretched the bellows and opened up the holes.
Where did you find the book you downloaded?
I found it at this link
www.ta-group.at/dokus/service%20manual%20_14%20alpha%20i%20gen%20ii%20outdrives%201991%20to%20present.pdf
This diy video would of been great if it actually showed the work being done
What’s the name of the washer that broke
I believe you are referring to the Synthane Bell Housing Washer. Here is a link to the one I purchased from Wholesale Marine. Current price is under $2
www.wholesalemarine.com/washer-mercury-mercruiser-12-72498.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwweyFBhDvARIsAA67M71lZ7RntdbZdPMPfNGFDMHrOn-7ON2-5vfR-WcjHtTPRqZ30F2kQdwaAiSaEALw_wcB
Lmfao 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Link parts kit?
Here is the link to the parts kit I purchased.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBSY36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1:30 look at the propeller is cracked should have changed that
The prop is not cracked. I think it was just the lighting and camera angle that made it look cracked. It does have some dings but not too bad. I will probably replace it with a stainless prop soon.
Store your boat with the trim down and moisture will flow away from gimble bearing.
For a first timer you did pretty good but you skipped the very important installation of key parts . When you do a how to video you should video all of the installation instead of skipping very important parts you didn't show how to install the gear lube fitting didn't show how you installed the ring for the universal bellows didn't show how you installed the inlet water hose didn't show how you finally got the exhaust bellow on the very important parts you just shit canned and nobody learned anything . Should also show installing the pivot pins and torqueing them and installation of the drive and torqueing the bolts and cress cross pattern. Some body that needed some help would be lost by your video and would right back to square one trying to figure things out .
Roger - thank you for the constructive criticism and you are correct, I did not capture everything on film. Turns out that I am new to vlogging and ended up doing some of the work before realizing that I should have been recording. I learned something from doing the video and I will incorporate those lessons into any future videos. Thanks again for your feedback.
@@randyj7476 Please don't think I am being mean towards you or disrespectful . You did a great job of videoing what you did do it was very clear and you explained everything very well! For a first time you get an atta boy job well done! I want to learn how do edit but for some reason it intimidates me I have been wanting to do it for years but it stops me dead in my tracks I have tried to hire people here to teach me and they always lie and flake out. Keep up the good work you will do well the next one Randy you get an attta boy!
@@madmanmechanic8847 Would replacing the anodes on the trim rams eliminate future corrosion
Well done Randy J, I would advise getting a tripod... and Roger, try editing with Lumavision, pretty easy app
@@SteveLockephoto Lumavision will it walk you through the steps> I am very intimidated by video editing I don't know why is it easy for somebody that has never done it before thank you