The addition of the two sacrificial blocks (front and rear) to eliminate the planer snipe is WAY cool, as in: "WHY didn't think of that"? I could have tons of material with this method. You have created a longer work piece, which also makes the run safer for short stuff.
Your video taught me more about how to use my planer than I ever knew to do thin pieces and even small pieces! I built the sled as you explained and planed walnut down to 1/16th for a cutting board project. Putting the small piece at the tail end totally cures the snipe. I have seen woodworkers do this kind of veneer work with a drum sander, but I don't see much need for one now that I have your tricks! Thanks for your enlightening teaching! I am a fan.
Hi Steve - I just re-watched your video - now that I have a few months’ worth of experience with a planar I realized snipe is an issue I needed to address, especially with the smaller pieces. I did build a sled from memory but of course I didn’t get it quite right - LOL… So I will nowe-address that jig. Thanks again for such a helpful and educational CZcams video, Larry
Thanks Larry, glad the video was helpful! I often do enough sanding after planing that the sander removes the snipe marks, but not always, so its definitely good to just prevent them in the first place if you can.
I hadn't considered adding a cleated plate to the front edge. Thanks for the great idea! I agree that hot glue is a simpler approach than a shim taped to the sled. Though the hot glue can sometimes be a real pain to get off your work piece. A piece of blue tape on the workpiece where you will be putting the hot glue can make that part so much easier!
I recently needed to do a short run in my planer and was battling snipe. Wish I had seen this a week ago. Definitely will add a cleat as you described. And the side runners…genius. Thanks for a no nonsense, but feature rich video.
well I AM a snipe fanatic because it drives me crazy and is very annoying for what I do so thank you! also, the close up shot inside the planer was awesome!
"Snipe fanatic" - LOL - excellent video.Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on how to reduce or illuminate snipe.. I'd never have though of these methods left my current skill-set! This too is now part of my video reference library. Larry
My favorite lines from all of these types of videos is the " I just happen to have some 'insert insanely ridiculous wood type that you would never think the content creator would have in that tiny shop' lying around from a previous project...that being said, I'm going to try and make this sled for my DeWalt...
Haha, yeah I'm a packrat and save scraps from every project, so have a lot of different pieces of wood. I made a garden bench from IPE wood last year, and really have no use for the scraps, but I kept them anyway. Glad the video was helpful!
Absolutely brilliant video! Thank you for teaching us this in a clear, concise, and no hype manner. VERY much appreciated! I will no doubt be referring back to this video multiple times. Also, would love to see more info on your crosscut sled for you jobsite table saw. I have one (job site table saw) as well and need to make one.
Thank you so much! Thanks for the suggestion to do a video on the crosscut sled. I built it a number of years ago before I was filming my work, but I’ll think about how I can provide some info on it!
Great idea on the cleat. will make one today. FYI on double side tape, I always cut/tear the non-sticky side tape a half inch more than the sticky side so it is easy to peal off the role the next time. That way I don’t have to use my fingernail to get it separated next time. I subscribed cause you have some good content.
I keep having trouble with my infeed and outfeed tables not being very level with the bed of the planer (I think one or both of them are warped). Would you recommend using your sled on a planer with the in & out table wings removed ?
Yes, I think a sled would help with a planer without wings. However, you could also just secure a fixed piece of melamine through the planer, extending on both infeed and outfeed sides to create a much longer planer bed that also acts as infeed and outfeed.
I've never measured it, not sure that I have any device that would measure it accurately. I really can't even see the snipe most of the time. Cutech claims that the snipe on this planer is 0.13-0.15 mm
That front cleat just completely changed what my process is going to be, for the better. Thank you for the video!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
The addition of the two sacrificial blocks (front and rear) to eliminate the planer snipe is WAY cool, as in: "WHY didn't think of that"? I could have tons of material with this method. You have created a longer work piece, which also makes the run safer for short stuff.
Happy to hear the video was helpful!
Best video I have ever seen on the subject thanks so much
Wow, thanks!
Your video taught me more about how to use my planer than I ever knew to do thin pieces and even small pieces! I built the sled as you explained and planed walnut down to 1/16th for a cutting board project. Putting the small piece at the tail end totally cures the snipe. I have seen woodworkers do this kind of veneer work with a drum sander, but I don't see much need for one now that I have your tricks! Thanks for your enlightening teaching! I am a fan.
Thank you so much!
Thy. One of the best elaborated videos about sniping on planer.
Thanks so much for your kind words!
Wow, one of the best videos of methods I've seen. Great work!
Thanks so much!
Hi Steve - I just re-watched your video - now that I have a few months’ worth of experience with a planar I realized snipe is an issue I needed to address, especially with the smaller pieces.
I did build a sled from memory but of course I didn’t get it quite right - LOL… So I will nowe-address that jig. Thanks again for such a helpful and educational CZcams video, Larry
Thanks Larry, glad the video was helpful! I often do enough sanding after planing that the sander removes the snipe marks, but not always, so its definitely good to just prevent them in the first place if you can.
One of the best vids I’ve seen on planing small pieces.
Thanks so much!
Magnificent! Cutting an angle on the leading cleat is genius. Thanks for the idea. Keep of the good work!
Thanks so much!
I hadn't considered adding a cleated plate to the front edge. Thanks for the great idea! I agree that hot glue is a simpler approach than a shim taped to the sled. Though the hot glue can sometimes be a real pain to get off your work piece. A piece of blue tape on the workpiece where you will be putting the hot glue can make that part so much easier!
That's a great idea to use blue tape, I'm going to try that next time I'm flattening a wide board on the planer!
I recently needed to do a short run in my planer and was battling snipe. Wish I had seen this a week ago. Definitely will add a cleat as you described. And the side runners…genius. Thanks for a no nonsense, but feature rich video.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful, even if a week late.
well I AM a snipe fanatic because it drives me crazy and is very annoying for what I do so thank you! also, the close up shot inside the planer was awesome!
Great! Glad it was helpful!
What a great lesson, thank you sir!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
"Snipe fanatic" - LOL - excellent video.Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on how to reduce or illuminate snipe.. I'd never have though of these methods left my current skill-set! This too is now part of my video reference library. Larry
Haha! Thanks Larry, I really appreciate the kind words in your comments! Glad the videos are helpful!
My favorite lines from all of these types of videos is the " I just happen to have some 'insert insanely ridiculous wood type that you would never think the content creator would have in that tiny shop' lying around from a previous project...that being said, I'm going to try and make this sled for my DeWalt...
Haha, yeah I'm a packrat and save scraps from every project, so have a lot of different pieces of wood. I made a garden bench from IPE wood last year, and really have no use for the scraps, but I kept them anyway. Glad the video was helpful!
Absolutely brilliant video! Thank you for teaching us this in a clear, concise, and no hype manner. VERY much appreciated! I will no doubt be referring back to this video multiple times. Also, would love to see more info on your crosscut sled for you jobsite table saw. I have one (job site table saw) as well and need to make one.
Thank you so much! Thanks for the suggestion to do a video on the crosscut sled. I built it a number of years ago before I was filming my work, but I’ll think about how I can provide some info on it!
That’s saved me so much hassle, thank you
Awesome, glad it helped!
This genius video just earned you a new subscriber… thanks for the great tips!
Thank you so much!
Really great video. I'll definitely be making a new sled with the super thin cleat on the front. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great and thorough explanation! Very useful tips!
Thanks so much!
Good tips on the planer. I wish my cutech would run the same slow fees rate as yours.
Thanks! Yeah the slow speed is great, it's the primary reason that I upgraded to the cutech planer from my wen planer.
Thank you for this! Great information
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to share this helpful information.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation. I'm about to buy a thicknesser and appreciate the tips. Cheers from Australia. PP
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Really helpful, thanks!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great idea on the cleat. will make one today. FYI on double side tape, I always cut/tear the non-sticky side tape a half inch more than the sticky side so it is easy to peal off the role the next time. That way I don’t have to use my fingernail to get it separated next time. I subscribed cause you have some good content.
Thanks Frank, much appreciated! Great tip on the tape
Thank you for sharing this helpful information.
Excellent explanations, quality video tutorial to be sure!
Thanks!
For the runners on the thin pieces, do you have to make them the length of the workpiece, or can you just do them on the end, like the other example?
If the runners are as long as the workpiece, then it will prevent snipe on both ends.
Very helpful! Thanks for posting
Thanks! glad it was helpful!
Great advice. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you!
I keep having trouble with my infeed and outfeed tables not being very level with the bed of the planer (I think one or both of them are warped). Would you recommend using your sled on a planer with the in & out table wings removed ?
Yes, I think a sled would help with a planer without wings. However, you could also just secure a fixed piece of melamine through the planer, extending on both infeed and outfeed sides to create a much longer planer bed that also acts as infeed and outfeed.
@@jkmwoodworking Thanks. This is also an idea I have been considering.
Great video. Saved.
Thanks!
Excellent video really helpful, thanks.
Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful!
How deep is the snipe you're getting? After adjusting the heights of my outfeed and infeed tables, I get about 0.3mm. Used to be much worse before
I've never measured it, not sure that I have any device that would measure it accurately. I really can't even see the snipe most of the time. Cutech claims that the snipe on this planer is 0.13-0.15 mm
Just curious because of the wood you had. Do you make bows?
I don't make bows,... sounds like a fun project though!