GL4 and GL5 Oil - Transmission Lubrication Oils Explained
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 05. 2017
- I discuss some of the new oils today for manual transmissions and take apart a Muncie 4 speed that welded up. There has been a great deal of misinformation about GL-5 based oils corroding synchronizer rings. I've never seen this happen in 1000's of tranmissions I've serviced. We have seen more GL-4 based oils come to the market within the past 3 years, but prior to that everyone was OK using GL-5 oil for the past 20 to 30 years. The new GL-4 oils are a plus because we now have better formulated oils for our muscle car transmissions.
I use Red Kap Shirts: red-kap.pxf.io/k0d2xN
~~~~ Contact and Social Media ~~~~
WEBSITE ~ super661.com
EMAIL ~ support@5speeds.com
INSTAGRAM ~ / 5speeds
FACEBOOK ~ / gearboxvideo
SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
~~~~ My Books and Store ~~~~
BUY ME COFFEE ~ www.buymeacoffee.com/8p7C3hs
MAIN STORE ~ www.5speeds.com/cart
BOOK #1 ~ amzn.to/3b7x6fT
BOOK #2 ~ amzn.to/3RUaK25
AMAZON STORE ~ a.co/ftlbr0s
disclaimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between GearBoxVideo (Paul Cangialosi) and you. Every situation may be different, and GearBoxVideo does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. GearBoxVideo and any sponsors or manufacturers of parts that may appear in this video or any of the channel's content will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I'm a mechanical engineer, an ASE-certified master technician, and I have spent many years in the aerospace industry as well as owning and operating an auto-repair facility; and I have to say that you, sir, have made a really good video!
Thank you for your time and effort.
I hope that there are still many transmission repair techs that can do this you are a dying breed .
I think it's because manual transactions are slowly becoming obsolete and car manufacturers are sticking to auto tranny/dual clutch. I love manual gearboxes, so much more fun to drive and takes skill to do it. Also not as expensive to repair vs auto tranny 10x the cost lol... But I agree as long as there becoming mastering transmission on general it would be a great skill trade
Expense depends on the type of unit. Some are if not more expensive than an automatic to completely overhaul. Spot repairs cannot be generalized
If you close your eyes you can hear Harvey Keitel give a wonderful lesson on transmissions and oils.
People have said that.
I believe, it is Harvey Keitel.
🤣
Mr. White...
It's fun to watch the few videos done by knowledgeable people who are passionate about their work. This guy is clearly one of those people. Watching this makes me wish I had transmission problems just so I could have him fix it! Very well done Paul. Thank you taking the time to make this video.
What a pro this guy is. Love seeing masters of their craft showing the world what they do.
Thank you
Hi Paul. I've been a DIY shade tree mech all my life ( 72 ) . When I watch your channel I know I'm getting straight and honest info. Your experience and skills run deep. You are much appreciated by myself and others. Thanks for sharing.
You open that case and throw parts around like, "La, La ,La,La" "I've done this 10,000 times." I'd be taking more pictures than I would on a one month vacation cruise...lol!
That`s what I`m like
Muncies are one of the simplest boxes out there.
My Gawd, I haven't looked inside a Muncie in 30, no 40 years! I love it... I about 15, when the guy who owned the Esso station taught me how to rebuild transmissions. This was '68, so it was 3 & 4 speeds everywhere.
The funny thing about Gary, the station owner was you would think he'd never be able to get a hand inside a Muncie,, let a lone rebuild one. The first strong memory I had during the vid, was the pain involved, the cuts and nicks, the smashed fingertips. LOL
Gary was about 6'2-6'3" and had to weigh 300-350, easy..probably more, it was a long time ago. But that guy could tear apart and rebuild a transmission like he was playing piano, it was amazing. He did everything with his fingers. He was strong enough in his hands, and his fingers were long enough, it looked like he was washing his hands in a finger bowl, then bang, out pops the cluster, or "You can put the side cover back on, it's done.", and you're still cleanin' the damn side cover!
Thanks, I haven't thought of that in 20-30 years easy, a lot of that I'd forgot since I saw it happen. Thanks, again.
Oh, that Brad Pitt oil looked like the good ol' green, stinky tranny lube I recall. If it has a tendency to hang a bit more, that may be a big asset in heavy load situations, keep a better layer on the gears, themselves.
Good to see a transmission guy on CZcams that knows what he's doing. I rebuild manual transmissions too. Great video.
Thanks 👍
The master at work. The info this well experienced man has to offer is priceless
Finally a man that knows his transmissions and knows how to teach, explain and show how to do it.
You’re a great teacher! It’s always wonderful to listen to a knowledgeable and articulate professional like yourself. Thank you for your work.
“We’re gunna have to make a video on this one” hell yeah!! So glad to see some new stuff man, it looks super good!! Great editing too, your stuff is looking so professional!
Your knowledge is golden. This, for me, is youtube at it's best. Subscribed and thank you so much.
What a way to start the week.
I don't know if I'll watch a better video the rest of the week. Absolutely spectacular presentation. I learned a whole buncha stuff and I was entertained at the same time....and it was all for free!!!
Thank you Paul!
Very informative video, I learned a bunch. Thanks for taking the time to upload this sort of thing, your videos on transmissions are definitely top notch. Keep it up!
Paul, a good take on the GL4/5 saga. Thanks for taking the time to publish these videos.
"Saga" is a good term. There have been more new GL4 oils released in the past 3 years to capture a market. However as mentioned, its a good thing that companies are formulating better oils to grab market share for classic manual transmissions.
@@GearBoxVideo maybe people are cheap on fuel, and even manual needs oilchange...give even better milage as gearbox is very lossy
Hi from Australia, Truck mechanic here, Years ago my son had a Holden LD Astra, basically a re-badged N13 Nissan Pulsar,
he decded to freshen up the gearbox with new oil, went down the local parts store, got the oil they recommended.
1 month later this box was stuffed, grinding every gear, luckily he had another box, so he decided to just swap the box, instead of re-building it.
Anyways, i got home from work midway through his swap, and noticed a drain container full of black oil, "ohhhh, changing the engine oil too, i see" i commented,
he replied, "nope, that's the old gearbox oil" I knew straight away exactly what had happened, asked for the old bottle of oil he used in it and the new oil he was going to put in his 2nd box,
yep, both the same, both GL5. A quick search in the manual showed nissan specifies GL4, he went straight back and swapped the GL5 for some GL4,
the parts store accepted no responsibilty for their error, they (incorrectly) argued that GL5 just supercedes GL4, long story short, we don't use that part store anymore.
that 2nd box with the GL4 was still going strong years later.
Another thing I've noticed in all my years twisting spanners, is the effect synthetic oils can have on old gearboxes.
mainly if it's an old box designed back when only mineral oils were available, with most likely, larger tolerances,
they tend to shift better with mineral oils and become notchy with the fancy synthetics.
This is really noticable as well on the Eaton-Fuller road ranger non-synchro boxes too,
factory specfies, DD50(sae 50) engine oil, shifts nice, put in a synthetic gear oil, notchy.
new boxes on the other hand, designed with tighter tolerances tend to work better with the new synthetics.
even with making sure the viscosity is as the manufacturer specifies, the synthethics just don't seem to shift right in old boxes,
just what i've noticed anyways. Cheers.
Great comment. Thanks
Got here looking for comments about transmission oil now im hooked. Im amazed that gearbox is repairable.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for clarifying the debate. I would trust your decades of experience over internet opinions. This video is gold.
I found both the gearbox and the oil test very fascinating.
Roy Godiksen Thank you.
What a well done video. Very nice quality, camera positions and analysis. Congratulation!
Awsome man. You are truly a shining light to our field and just a great being to emulate and aspire to be
I have a couple of 4speed vehicles with a few spare transmissions.
These videos are hugely beneficial for a back yard builder such as myself.
Keep them coming!
Gradatude attitude! Wow
Your videos are the best gearbox videos on the internet!! You rock!
Thank you
This video was perfect. Been amazed at how a transmission actually works and when I saw you take it apart and then the soft metal synchros fell out, I was blown away at how such a machine is engineered, it’s amazing! Thanks for your research, your valued opinions and work in this field-respects to you Sir!
I've been wrenching for 20+ yrs and still find it amazing how a soft seal digs a groove in hard metal.
I know why and how it happens , it's just still kinda cool.
Thank you for that comparison. That was more informative than any oil add ive seen. Real world advice from a pro. Much appreciated
I love how all your videos are the questions that I'm constantly asking 👍 its hard to find answers for an experienced backyard mechanic. I'll be buying your book soon and buying your 4 speed muncie rebuild kit so I can rebuild mine. Keep kicking ass man
You save me. I accidentally put that non-synchromesh gear oil in my my synchromesh manual transmission. I only put a 1000 mile on it before seeing this video and have change it out immediately. Thank you for saving my transmission.
My dealer did that to my car... swapped the oil for GL4 no labor cost
Paul, your a gett'r done with no bullshit gearhead...Thank you.
your transmission videos are great..im learning so much. thank you so much for taking the time to do these.
Your videos are some of the best automotive tech I've watched. Keep helping us DIYs building '60'-'70 muscle cars....thx BTW will be buying your gasket set and double lip main for my M21 general servicing
You, sir, beat the crap out of those transmission parts with the kind of practiced roughness that can only be learned through decades of experience. You know exactly where, and how hard, to bash each component so it will come loose without breaking anything that isn't already broken.
Thanks for that.
11:20 Gear Lube discussion commences.
I just changed my rear differential and front trans-axle last week using Mobil 1 75W-90 GL5 on my Toyota Venza AWD V6 2GR-FE and I appreciate this video.
Awesome video! Direct, to the point and very informative. Just subscribed and will be watching the rest of your video library.
Chemistry lesson: Sulfur sits below oxygen on the periodic table so it has similar chemical properties. I realize it is a gas vs a solid, but sulfur likes to oxidize metals just like oxygen. But since it sits lower on the table and it is usually a solid, it doesn't attack as fast as oxygen would. But heat will increase the rate of oxidation just like Paul stated. One unusual property of sulfur based chemical is it will actually inhibit oxidation by oxygen, so if you would have oxygen trying to bond to a metal, the sulfur would take the hit instead protecting the metal. This fact is apparent in the body as sulfur is used to make the main antioxidant produced by the liver, glutathione.
Nice ride in your profile photo bro, don't see that colour much here in GB!
i AGREE WITH YOUr THEORY.
When i use sulphur ,content, metals darks a little bit, it oxides, so if it oxides sligtly no oxigen will not bond to it...
Interesting, especially the bit a about Organic sulphurs important use in the Body, eat leafy Greens everyday people!
It is my understanding that the GL5's high concentration of sulfur bonding to and being sheared off the brass is what was causing premature wear/erosion of the syncros.
Sulfur is a sacrificial layer for the syncros. It does not take off the layers under it, but instead bonds external to the layer. This means, that it wears instead of the syncros. Like it was said on the video, the people who complained were people who were hard on their transmissions. I have used the GL-5 all the life of my car, I just replaced the bearings in the transmission (after 260,000 miles and 25 years) I did not have to worry about gears, and I did check contact. I did not even see discoloration of the syncros. I do not drive hard in my car though. I did do the rebuild because the worn bearings were making some noise. Which included the main input bearing, the pinion bearing, two needle bearings, carrier bearings, and all the seals.
Nice experiment. What you basically did was make a viscosity cup.
You can pick them up pretty cheap on amazon. For this type experiment, id recommend a Zahn #5.
Fun video! Loved the detail and commentary about the gearbox and the follow up oil comparison. Found this while researching oils to use for my first transmission oil change.
Paul, another great video. I like the comment about the shipping box and he should have marked the top of it so it would have been handled that way. I would love to hang out at the shop and see all the broken transmissions that you open up. Never a dull moment and always a surprise I bet. Also the gear lube talk was well received, the music you had during the test was really good too. Little things like this keep you # 1!.
Thanks for the great feedback. My shops a mess!
PLEASE READ:
Wow this video is getting a great deal of hits lately. I'm noticing the same questions asked over and over so please take the time to read other comments I have responded to. First off this transmission locked up on a dyno because they forgot to put oil in it. In regards to what OIL I think is best for your transmission... There will always be debates from fans of various oil brands as to what they think works best. If it works best for you and you have exhibited better performance, less wear and are happy with the result, then that oil is best for you. With so many transmissions with different types of clearances and synchro types, understand that what may work great for you may not for someone else.
OIL TEMPERATURE COMMENTS: There are some that will argue that unless I did these tests with the oils at operating temperature that they are meaningless. This is not true. Manual transmission oil when cold will greatly effect how the transmission will shift UNTIL it warms up. However that is not even the point of the comparison. The point of the comparison was to show how the different advertised grades of the oils compare when cold. In the future I will probably do a test with oils at an average operating temperature.
THANK YOU ... for taking the time to watch my videos and subscribe.
How am I just finding this channel? Keep it coming.
I just found this channel. To cut down on repeat questions, some people don't know about using f3 to do a word search. (I'm using a PC) For those that don't, hit the f3 button and put in a word like "viscosity" or "temperature". If you want to not have that word embedded into another word like the word "oil" will show up in the word "broil" and so on, put a space before and after your word. It will cut down on the irrelevant hits. This way you don't have to read hundreds of comments to search for your issue. Hope this helps.
Do you do anything with automatic transmissions? I've got a GM FWD 4T65e transmission in my car that I'd love to have overhauled at some point. It's running good now, but with almost 100k on the clock, I'd love an expert to tear into it and beef up anything that looks "iffy" or fix any potential design flaws it might have, etc. I'd rather have it rebuilt BEFORE it breaks than wait till after. That and I'm trying to keep the car as stock and original as possible, so I want to be extra sure the same tranny that came in it stays in it. Thanks and sorry if this is a common / repetitive question.
You do some good vids. I just had my sag 4 spd with 255 1st from my 68 camaro rebuilt. Wish i had stumbled across this channel a year and a half ago. Keep the great work.
wow you tube keeps putting you in may recommended so i cracked great vid , yes learnt something power lose having thicker oil , but how this work with limited slip diffs in front wheel drives , i was recommend 80/140 for it but was having trouble with gear changes , so i change to 80/90 and the diff keeps locking on corners :( so im using half and half seems ok ish
Those oils might behave very differently once warmed up, in the temperature range where the car is actually running them.
In my 49 Ford tractor and 52 Ford PU I have used regular 40 W motor oil for years without any problems. Enjoyed your presentation on the Muncie
You are obviously a master of your craft. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Great video!
So sorry to hear about your friend Jeff Beck. May he rest in peace.
This is how I find out about this?! I went to see him on his Who Else tour (probably not the greatest in his discography for his fans) and loved it. He represented everything I loved about a celebrity that didn't need attention and had a genuine passion for cars. The only person I've ever seen deliver a similar show was Buddy Guy. Man, that's a real bummer. RIP one of my childhood heroes.
Thanks for clarifying this for me! Way too much forum BS makes my head spin.
I really like the way a simple test using raw "household" physics demonstrates the indisputable facts. Well done.
Thanks Paul for the interesting and informative commentary on gear oils. I just bought a new 370Z with a 6-speed manual transmission and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the details of how these manual gearboxes with their synchromesh transmissions work. I've always been an engine guy, but I find these modern manual gearboxes fascinating in their design and how they work. Understanding how my transmission works in detail makes it much more fun in driving my car.
Since 82 my Isuzu Pup has 400K miles with 10W-30 in the transmission, I think I won't touch or breath hard on it.
I think the buildup on the syncro rings may effect the ability to grab the cone of the speed gear causing possible shifting issues. I was a Mitsu tech for years and the Evo six speeds required gl4 and a bulletin was released warning not to use gl5. There were no specifics given, just it would damage the syncros. Also, I would have liked to see the BG syncro max fluid tested as well. Nice video as always.
Scott_C. Never seen build up on rings
Scott, can you post pictures of this buildup on a Mitsubishi synchro ring?
After 45 years in the repair business (more than a dozen working on transmissions. I always learn something from your videos. Keep the information coming- you do an excellent job of showing us how things REALLY work.
Thank you.
thankyou very much i run a 350 to 400hp ls1 thru a t56 tremec manual and 3 73 to 1 rear gear in my hsv senator this cleared up an issue i was so confused about and now feel confident that i have bought the correct oil for my transmission. as usual an excellent video i find your vids watch and then start wrenching in that order thanks paul.
Thanks for watching the videos. Much appreciated.
“makes a good clutch alignment tool” 🤣
lubrication discussion at 11:20
Agreed! I always use GL-4 for my 62 impala and 78 vette after rebuilding manual transmissions and no problem for years so far! Also it's my desire lubrication.
Hi Paul, just caught your video and it is great and informative as usual. I still have two Muncie Transmissions [both are M-20's] in my possession and will not part with them even though I am older now and do not have a car to put them in. They are a representation of my youth and I don't need to sell them, so I just keep them. I cant wait to see your follow-up video on rebuilding that Muncie. I often thought for a project that one day I would buy all M-22 [Rock Crusher Gears] and take one of my Muncie's and install M-22 gears. I did write you years ago and you replied and I appreciate your accessibility to this date. Keep up the good work. Vinnie in Cincinnati
My car calls for a 75-90 gear oil gl-4 or 5 . At 100,000 miles I put in RedLine gl-5. At about 150,000 I started having problems making a fast shift from 2nd to 3rd. It was harder to push into gear and some times would cluck into gear. So I avoided doing that shift. At 200,000 miles I put in RedLine gl-4 and the problem went away. I now have 255,000 on the car and it is shifting fine.
I have a 2008 Mazda MX-5, 6-speed, which the dealer replaced the fluids in. On the receipt I saw they used a GL-5 based gear lube in the trans. I could hardly get it to shift through the gears going home. I let it sit, ended up ordering the Redline MT90, GL-4 and replaced it myself. The car immediately shifted fine right from the git-go. Five years later and it's still performing great. Made a believer out of me.
I'm not a chemist but if I remember correctly it would not take very much moisture in contact with the sulfur to create some acidity. Long term exposure to the acid might potentially create an issue, but I'm thinking the people who blend the lubricants understand that and probably address it with their additive formulations. Very interesting video, thank you!
Thanks for putting in the work Paul. With so many different oils out there it has become a nightmare for us builders/restores to choose the proper lubricants for the combination of engine-trans we assemble. This video sheds a lot of light on the subject. Good job brother! 👍
A very informative and well put together video. It is also non-biased. Thank you so much for sharing. ✌️
I wonder if he could have fixed it with Flexseal?
Paul, what fascinating video. Thank you for your sage and opinions. I work exclusively with BMW 4, 5 and 6 speed transmissions, but I gather from your comments you're a domestic car guy. However I would be interested if you have opinion of using RedLine oils. I use MTL and MT85 in my race transmissions and find it shifts much easier and quicker. There is almost no wear that I can personally see. In my street 6 speed, I replaced what must have been the original oil with MTL, and immediately experienced smoother shifting from what was notchy shifts where I could feel the synchronizer engage and then the gear engage. I was also told to use GL4 in my steering gear box because GL5 would disintegrate the brass and plastic bearing cages. Have you wisdom or an opinion about that?
Thank you
- Jon
There are so many comments with people swearing that oil A made there transmission shift better than transmission B. Oddly I have never had such an experience! Most of the oil issues I have dealt with have to do with results under extreme use. An no two applications are the same. So if it works for you, great.
I had a brand new 4 speed Borg Warner T10($250.00) and Hurst linkage for 55-57 Chevys brand new($50.00) but later I recieved a 55 150 Chevy Wagon from my Father...A55S163545 VIN 6Cyl 3 on the tree...I found an O/D for $35.00 from Buds Auto Wrecking...took rear end gears out (3:90 to 1) and put 3:55 Automatic rear set in...this combined AZ tion got me 30++ mpg out of that girl...I put over 200,000 miles on it...after my Dad put 100,000 and overhauled the Blue Flame 6 and let it sit in his front yard...until I got it...it was a good horse...I heard a cowboy say one time...A man deserves 3 things in life; a good dog...a good horse...and a good Mother...Happy Mothers day all you Mothers out there!!! P.S. I over hauled that overdrive 3 times...needed a new free wheeling hub(it flat wore out) and a small parts kit with the good small needle bearings in the kit...that trans is sitting somewhere tight and ready to fly...the guy that bought the car...changed it all out...put a V-8 and Auto in it..no telling where that old girl is...I have tried to locate it with VIN#...NO LUCK...I WANT TO SEE IT...Sparky
Good Video.
For everyone but the owner, the sound of the gear-teeth rolling around in the case is priceless.
Slide Hammer.
"looks good but junk because they were running in dirty oil". I like the honesty. too many would just say, "it'll make it past my waranty, that's all I care about" As a former mechanic myself, I know it's really hard to find good ones anymore. Kudos.
GL4 and GL5 @ 11:30
I rebuilt my Muncie about 4 years ago with Paul's book. FF to now and it "chunks" into second and fourth. I used the same Valvoline 85w90 as in this video. Watching this I noticed Paul pointed out the fine print on the back of the bottle "not for synchronized transmissions". Hey Valvoline, you might wanna put that on the front in bold letters! Wondering now if a lube change to Driven would help, or do I need to replace the synchros again.
Heck yes I did the same thing. The oil in my trans is foamy? Anyone know why?
Excellent video -
1st time viewer !
Good info !!!
I'm a vintage VW guy ! Just wanted to say very nice !!!
Excellent. You obviously know your stuff and your presentation skills are superb.
"G"earbox "L"ubricant #4/#5?
Excellent content there.
I have a question, can we use 80w90, instead of recommend 75w80? I know we shouldn't. But where I live the temperature never drops below 20°C, max it gets is 45°C.
How will it affect the life of gearbox?
Please tell me, because no vendor, not even company workshop has the weird grade, and car is due trans oil change.
Edit- it is manual transmission.
Sure I don't see an issue
@@GearBoxVideo so 80w90 will do. Thanks.
As a retired mechanic I really like your videos! Well done sir!
Good demostration of lubricants, my favorite is purple in standard transmissions but sometines I use the valvuline 5w20 or 10w30 of depending on the transmission and with the work he does, he adjusts for the fluid change, good video I'm mexican.
Toyota manual transmissions especially calls for gl4 and if gl5 is used it will cause gear clash.
The GL4 discussion starts at 11:30
Thanks Paul, well done and to the point, great information given, easy to watch and learn
Enjoyed your video and thanks for showing the various gear oil comparison.
Now I have a new definition of what "a lot of damage" means.
So what if anything would be the difference between Synchromax or Synchromesh oils compared to synthetic 5w-30 or even better 5w-50 motor oil other than the motor oil is half the price? (5w-50 higher HTHS # than 5w-30)
I get this question often and it's a great and valid question. Synchromax and Synchromesh are designed for gearboxes that use ATF type fluids. You wouldn't put engine oil in an automatic transmission would you? Sometimes its not just about the weights and viscosity of the oils but more of the type of polymers and additives that work better with gears and synchronizers compared to engine oil.
Engine oils have a lot of additives to handle the contamination from combustion .. elements that are not needed in transmissions.. The same for using engine oils in hydraulic systems..
Ravenol makes some synthetic GL-4 oils in grades like 75w80 or 75w85 and some other things. They do it because so many more people in Europe drive manuals than they do in the USA. I get my Ravenol from Blauparts.
There was another trick I read about. In some cases, Ford tells people to use DCT fluid in their manual transmissions. Pentosin FFL2 is a DCT fluid for VW DCT transmissions, but I have read about people who use it in an Evo X which calls for a different fluid. I don't know why a DCT fluid would work in a manual transmission, but apparently it does work.
Mike Skidmore
My excavator allows spec of 15W-40 engine oil in its hydraulic system, also my Kenworth specs 15W-40 for the reservoir of the power steering. I have tried other hydraulic oils for the steering and only the 15W-40 works properly.
@@skylinefever DCT are basically two manuals with wet clutches so i guess wear is different
I'm from Brazil and I'm actually disassembling the Gear box, transfer case and axles to check and change bearing, gaskets.... For a Willy's Cj5 1960.
Last year before I start that I expend many time searching for this matter. In the owner manual they point to use in the Gear box Mineral oil SAE-90 without EP, and for axles with EP additive.
After a long journey looking for oils, I found that Eaton has an oil to gearbox that is Mineral SAE 80W90 API GL-3, for use in their gearbox to avoid incompatibility with some materials.
So, I'm using this oil nowadays, since here it's not allowed produce anymore oil without addictive, like the owner's manual said.
Congratulations for your videos, I like to much.
This is a great video. Thank you, for your time and efforts! 👍
Any thoughts on RedLine MT-90? Can I use Mobile 1 GL-5 gear oil on my Nissan 300ZX. I'm trying to use a readily available manual transmission oil in the 300ZX. The service manual calls for GL-4 75W-90 but it's hard to find locally. I don't want to pay for shipping!
What weight GL4 does your service manual call for? What transmission is in it?
The service manual for my 1994 Nissan 300ZX non-turbo calls for 75W-90 or 80W-90 GL-4, for the 5-speed manual transmission. The transmission has brass synchros. For the differential, it calls for 75W-90 GL-5. It's hard to find GL-4 around here and I don't want to pay $12 shipping for for a $12 quart. Most people on the 300ZX forums recommend Red Line MT-90 GL-4 and say to stay away from GL-5. Thanks for your help!
First thanks for watching my videos. I don't know where you are at. I never liked Redline products. Royal Purple Max gear 75W-90 is a better choice
I live in South Florida, east coast. Royal Purple Max 75W90 still good for this climate? Thanks for all your help!
AWonderfullLife YES! Available from most People Boys. We stock GL4 and are in South Florida Jupiter / Tequesta area.
How will GL4 or GL5 will affect a transmission which needs conventional mineral oil?
It would be better to know what transmission you are talking about
SM465 from NOVAK requests Conventional Mineral oil.
@@GearBoxVideo in my case, Isuzu MSA5R light truck gearbox, specifies 15-30 conventional oil. Have slight grinding between some gears, better with VMX80, better again with Syntranz 75-80, what would you recommend? Box was apparently rebuilt 🙄.
I stumbled on this video while falling down the youtube rabbit hole and will never need this info... BUT I COULDN'T STOP WATCHING!
Very interesting and great video. I'll be back!
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe
Thanks for the information I agree that when you said about the little gear box where they show you how their oil clings better than some one else I always watch the direction of them turning the gears they turn one reverse of the other , Not a big deal but it is marketing. I did find the info on the engineering of the oils informative. thanks
AT 11:50, THE GL-4 GL-5 TALK...
thank you so much man
Very early GL5 formulations would corrode synchro rings but this was soon spotted by the industry and reformulated. I can't remember the details of the metal but I think it was alloys containing a copper element (it was yellow metals), I also can't remember the anti-wear additive responsible. it was probably over 20 years ago.
Brass. Sulphur.
@snapdragon69
Yes now it won't corrode the brass but the additives in GL-5 will eventually peel the brass layer right off the gear. Also the additives aren't correct for smooth shifting of the synchronizers. GL-4 is a very different spec than GL-5.
I am so glad that I found this channel and I really enjoyed your video. I will watch your all video that I haven’t watch.
Thanks!
Finally!! A real explanation from the Muncie guru himself. I was going crazy with all the internet hype about the proper lube to use in Muncies. So much contradiction. I will use the Royal Purple 75W90 I had on my shelf in my M20. Thanks, man.
Motorhead porn!!! I love this guy.
It's not really about corrosion of synchros, what I've found that in older transmissions, a GL5 gear oil is "Too slippery", if that makes sense, and it causes less bite on the synchro, which leads to gears not meshing well, which leads to broken teeth. I build a lot of classic Japanses gearboxes, and if you use a GL5 gear oil in them, it's a death sentence. More so since most of them no longer have replacement parts available. Personally, I'm a huge fan of Redline MT90, which is a 75W90 GL4 ONLY full synthetic. it works well on older Nissan gearboxes. That being said, Driven makes fantastic lubricants, and if I were building a Muncie or Saginaw, that's what would be in there.
At the shop I worked at we had many people come in for gearbox rebuilds in their RWD Nissans due to crunchy gear shifts. A change to GL4 oil fixed all but the boxes that were actually broken.
I have a nissan patrol with engine swapped to a BMW 3.0D with double the torq. I was a little worried for the stock trans(FS5R30A), and decided to go for Volvo Penta GL5 oil for outboard drives. (DPH,rated at 1000nm)
The reason was that I think the high amount of EP may get the trans to keep together better than a GL4 oil... I have to shift easy because its a little "thicker" but i can live with it if it make the trans hold. I can not find any test that may confirm my teory, Would love to see some!
Great presentation GBV!
I went through rebuilding a Toyota 3RZ engine. Everything that was kept was tested or in good shape. It was a beautiful rebuild. After 1 year back on the road some little part failed and pushed metal shavings in the engine oil. Seconds after that (as I was pulling over on the freeway) the oil pump blew out and everything but the spare tire was destroyed. After that experience I've leaned that rebuilding anything will never be as good as the original, in general. The risks are too great to but that kind of money down.
Oh, one last thing. The original 3RZ drove for 330,000 miles before the rebuild on it.
Thanks really helps as I have my tran removed and it spilled a bit so I was wanting info of this very subject. I just ordered some shifter bushings due to your video on them. Thanks again
DR
Thank you
Bottom line if that transmission had been refill with any brand of gear oil it would still be working.
Correct. Some people make bad mistakes.
I can smell the gear oil just watching this 😂
Great Vid Paul.
I'm changing fluid in my NP883 and going with the Royal Purple
very informative and professional video. ..did recently a transfer case oil change for a Hyundai Sonata based on this video .....great work..
Muncie? More like Munchy!
Paul Simon? 🤣🤣🤭🤭🤭🤭
Awesome video boss! Love disassembly and rebuild videos! Keep up the amazing work boss!
+shottyshot Thanks for watching.
I was wondering what exactly was meant by the syncro corrosion stated by many so-called experts. Thanks for clearing that up! Great channel! 👍