VW Air Conditioning not working | how to fix VW A/C (new beetle)
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- Diagnosis of a 2002 VW Beetle air conditioning system
A quick run through of how I checked through the issues on my VW Beetle's A/C system, I make no guarantees this will fix your issues but I hope any part of this video can help someone with the same or similar issues come up with a fix for theirs.
This system is very similar if not the same on Golf, Passat and Jetta of the same era.
Worth noting with engine running and A/C on removing the 30A fuse on the battery lid and refitting it would make the compressor cut in and the system would work, once the key was turned off the system would stop working until I removed and fitted the 30A fuse again, odd but it would work every time.
Update - I bought a cheap FCM, it has arrived and this did fix my problem, the A/C works as it should, there are many things on this system that can go wrong but this worked for me
Thanks for watching!
VW A/C Intro 00:00
VW A/C fuses 01:06
VW A/C Fan control module electrical 02:37
VW A/C Conclusion 05:26 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You're a legend. I have been struggling with this issue and EVERYTHING checks out but my fans will not turn on. Clutch will not turn on. New FCM too. Just ordered an ambient temp sensor. Crossing my fingers!
Thanks, my issue turned out to be the fuse on top of the battery. No noticeable burns or marks, but the blade of the still-good fuse was black. I filed it, and put it back in and out several times to try to scrape the contacts, and it worked! I feel like I should replace the fuse box due to the overheating fuse issue. It's cheap enough so I'll probably just go ahead. Thank you for making this video, I appreciate it!
Good to hear! Yeah it seems the lids for the batteries are a common problem, glad yours is working now 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, now maybe I can fix my issue.
Thank you for the video, I will have some places to check my system out. It’s starting to get hot out.
Brilliant video thanks
Thank you for posting this. I'm fighting the same issue right now on the wife's 2003 tdi. Already replaced the FCM with no luck. Checked fuses, temp. sensor, fans. All check out okay. But cooling fans and AC do not work. I will definitely use your troubleshooting guide. Thanks
Thanks mate, there are some comments from others below that could also help from their experiences, good luck on the fix!
Usually when that fuse melts it’s because the compressor clutch is drawing too many amps. One big thing people miss on mk4’s is the ambient temperature sensor its in the wiper cowl and mice chew the wires and then the car thinks is -40 degrees Fahrenheit so the a/c doesn’t turn on and no codes get set when this happens.
Good call mate! Thanks for the info
Very nice video my PIN number 10 doesn’t give me power, the conector female is burned too and the ac compressor good. Basically the same problem like yours....
Yeah I was a bit dubious about buying the FCM based on only that issue so I bought a cheap one off ebay, it worked for me, I hope you can get to the bottom of your issue too
@@simmoshomeworkshop first I need replace the pig tail connector 14 pin, fan control module and the climate control from the dash this car is a chaos. Hahahaha greetings my friend.
My A/c works good, but fan2 dont work, only work for cool engine (both 1+2 fans)
Same issues… I checked fuses replaced FCM and today replaced the pressure …. Still no power or ground at the clutch
Hmm, been a while now since I owned this car and got the A/C working, could be worth checking the ambient temp sensor under the cowl, wasn't my issue but seems to be common to have issues with the sensor or the wiring to the sensor.
Odd there is no clutch grounding, from memory this is a hard wire and not controlled or switched.
May pay to also use a jump wire to the compressor magnetic clutch from the battery + (at the compressor plug) to see if there is issues with the clutch or the clutch ground, if it does not pull in or it could be a magnet issue or there may be a broken wire somewhere.
Great video Simon. Thanks for doing this. My daughter's 2008 NBC is having ac issues which I'm trying to diagnose using your video. I don't know if this is a Convertible versus standard thing, but it doesn't have a fuse in position #16, and no indication that there has ever been one in that position. The clutch engages when the ac button is pressed as evidenced by the motor bogging slightly when it engages. The pressure on the r134a refill socket is way high though - like in the 150's. No cold air. Any ideas what this could be?
Hi Lee, interesting. Good news the compressor is engaging, that
eliminates about 90% of the diagnostics.
150 psi is a bit high on the low side, the pressure will increase if it is a hot day, is that pressure static or with the clutch engaged?
Would be good to check if you have the gauges, if the pressure in the low side drops and the high side increases when the clutch engages, if they do that's a good sign the compresser works and you have refrigerant flow, if the clutch engages and the pressures don't change the compressor could be the issue or a blockage, possiby tx valve?
I'd think if the pressures are doing the right thing when the clutch is engaged and the condenser fans are on the evaporator should be getting cold, you can check on the passenger side under the dash, it's possible the vent air isn't making its way around the evaporator like an issue with an air direction flap?
Interested to see how you go mate.
Where did you find the aftermarket radio kit for it?
Hello, the Beetle actually came with this aftermarket unit already fitted, if you are looking to fit a single din stereo to your Beetle something like this could be of help? www.ebay.com.au/itm/295506142495?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=v9O2xiFoQQ6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Yt4HXQpuQiu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
My problem was the ambient temperature sensor
How do you test the work load???
The duty cycle on the T14 - 2 pin? I used the option on my multimeter (should have % or Hz) it shows a time on and time off percentage of the high pressure switch, percentage should be between 20% and 80%, anything outside of this range cuts the compressor.