I have a similiar setup from Race Ramps to transport a 450 lb ZX-10RR. I bought the Black Widow 600-lb capacity. But for anyone who is reading this comment, I would highly suggest the following modifications and upgrades to ensure overall (and over the road) peace of mind. 1. If your vehicle does not have a Class IV (4) Hitch, change it out. A Class III will most likely be underrated for continuous use and in my opinion, "not good enough" for a heavier 998cc. A Class IV Hitch has a tongue weight of 1000 lbs. The last thing you need is for your Class III to possibly fail. 2. Have a competent hitch or metal shop remove the stock tubular steel shank and replace it will a 2" x 2" solid steel shank. This will avoid sagging, bending, or possible cracking of the tubular shank. In addition ro this solid steel shank, ask them to DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES IN THE SHANK until you return with the vehicle. Have them seat the carrier onto your hitch. If the rear of your vehicle is straight across (Like the Jeep in this vido, or a 2001 Yukon) you should be good. But if the rear of your vehicle bows out like an Infiniti or Nissan Armada, use a piece of striing and tie it to both carrier tie-down loops toward the vehicle. This will identify your clearance. Now, measure the clearance feom your straight line string to the closest point of the vehicle protruding out. Add one or two inches for safety away feom vehicle. Now, have the shop cut the shank accordingly for a full seat into the receiver and then mark and drill the hitch pin hole. This method will ensure maximum shank in the receiver while minimizing any excess length suspending the carrier out further than it must. My shank into the receiver is only 6 inch length. There is no excess length whatsoever. So my carrier is closest to the vehicle which provides greater support. 3. If you have two (2) tow hooks weldes on to the back of your vehicle, have the metal shop install two metal hooks on your carrier at the widest points on the inside of the tie-down arms facing the vehicle. Then order two turn-buckles (E-rigging website) rated up to 2,000 lbs for additional safety. These turnbuckles easily attach, tighten, and will solidly secure the vehicle tow hooks to the hitch carrier left and right, creating a 3-point security system and eliminate any and all yaw or movement whatsoever. The anti-rattle attachment is junk!! 4. Order yourself custom ratchets. This will eliminate that extra 7-10 feet of useless straps being rolled up and stuffed wherever. To do this, I had my bike up on the carrier and measured from my handlebar straps down to the carrier tie-down loops. I then added 24 inches for ratchet rollup. There is a custom ratchet place online, I just forget who I ordered from. 5. Lastly, I suggest you swap out that cheap hitch for a Bulletproof Hitch feom Bulletproof Hitches online. I went with their strongest hitch that is tongue-weight rated to 12,000 lbs. Overkill, yes!! But between the weight of a 450-lb bike and a 100-lb carrier, I want 0 chance of my bike falling off. Especially if the shank is too long and the carrier is sticking way out suspending the weight of your motorcycle. With this ironclad safety system I put in place, the weakest link is some douchebag cutting the tie-down ratchet straps. Knowing this is remotely possible, I also travel with four extra ratchet straps. If you have any questions or comments or would like a photo of my setup, tag me, leave a comment with your Email. To the OP, Thank you for your Service and good luck out in California. You'll be missing the open winding roads of Arizona. *I am south of Tucson.
Read my response above. Avoid that anti-rattle crap. Add bracing turnbuckles to your hitch. I have zero, and I mean ZERO yaw, shake, rattle, flex, nothing.
I just got one myself! When you install the mototote into the hitch reciever, when bike is loaded, is it normal to see flex/bend around the tow hitch reciever? Also which hole did u use for the anti wobble bolt? 1st,2nd,3rd hole?
What hitch class does yor suv have installed? Mine is a class lll and says max tongue carry weight is 500lbs. 450lbs for my r1 and 99lbs for the carrier...
I have a similiar setup from Race Ramps to transport a 450 lb ZX-10RR. I bought the Black Widow 600-lb capacity. But for anyone who is reading this comment, I would highly suggest the following modifications and upgrades to ensure overall (and over the road) peace of mind. 1. If your vehicle does not have a Class IV (4) Hitch, change it out. A Class III will most likely be underrated for continuous use and in my opinion, "not good enough" for a heavier 998cc. A Class IV Hitch has a tongue weight of 1000 lbs. The last thing you need is for your Class III to possibly fail. 2. Have a competent hitch or metal shop remove the stock tubular steel shank and replace it will a 2" x 2" solid steel shank. This will avoid sagging, bending, or possible cracking of the tubular shank. In addition ro this solid steel shank, ask them to DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES IN THE SHANK until you return with the vehicle. Have them seat the carrier onto your hitch. If the rear of your vehicle is straight across (Like the Jeep in this vido, or a 2001 Yukon) you should be good. But if the rear of your vehicle bows out like an Infiniti or Nissan Armada, use a piece of striing and tie it to both carrier tie-down loops toward the vehicle. This will identify your clearance. Now, measure the clearance feom your straight line string to the closest point of the vehicle protruding out. Add one or two inches for safety away feom vehicle. Now, have the shop cut the shank accordingly for a full seat into the receiver and then mark and drill the hitch pin hole. This method will ensure maximum shank in the receiver while minimizing any excess length suspending the carrier out further than it must. My shank into the receiver is only 6 inch length. There is no excess length whatsoever. So my carrier is closest to the vehicle which provides greater support. 3. If you have two (2) tow hooks weldes on to the back of your vehicle, have the metal shop install two metal hooks on your carrier at the widest points on the inside of the tie-down arms facing the vehicle. Then order two turn-buckles (E-rigging website) rated up to 2,000 lbs for additional safety. These turnbuckles easily attach, tighten, and will solidly secure the vehicle tow hooks to the hitch carrier left and right, creating a 3-point security system and eliminate any and all yaw or movement whatsoever. The anti-rattle attachment is junk!! 4. Order yourself custom ratchets. This will eliminate that extra 7-10 feet of useless straps being rolled up and stuffed wherever. To do this, I had my bike up on the carrier and measured from my handlebar straps down to the carrier tie-down loops. I then added 24 inches for ratchet rollup. There is a custom ratchet place online, I just forget who I ordered from. 5. Lastly, I suggest you swap out that cheap hitch for a Bulletproof Hitch feom Bulletproof Hitches online. I went with their strongest hitch that is tongue-weight rated to 12,000 lbs. Overkill, yes!! But between the weight of a 450-lb bike and a 100-lb carrier, I want 0 chance of my bike falling off. Especially if the shank is too long and the carrier is sticking way out suspending the weight of your motorcycle. With this ironclad safety system I put in place, the weakest link is some douchebag cutting the tie-down ratchet straps. Knowing this is remotely possible, I also travel with four extra ratchet straps. If you have any questions or comments or would like a photo of my setup, tag me, leave a comment with your Email. To the OP, Thank you for your Service and good luck out in California. You'll be missing the open winding roads of Arizona. *I am south of Tucson.
Thanks for the info!
Ok big dog..I see you..Filming the foundation of bike ownership..🏁👍🏽
One step at a time!!!
Thanks for the video, helped me a lot!!
Good video.
We’re coppin one of these
Hey man also have a grand Cherokee , was wondering how much your bike weighs and how the Cherokee holds up through transportation , great vid 👍🏼
👍
I have the Black widow from discount ramps, if you ever come up to the Bay Area Hit up Santa Cruz Mountains/ Skyline
i cant find the ones which extends the back lights of the car. Do you have a link from one of those?
figured out it is something optional for 100 bucks extra
Think a little shim in the hitch would eliminate the wobble? Or do you think it needs to wobble a little so nothing snaps or cracks?
Read my response above. Avoid that anti-rattle crap. Add bracing turnbuckles to your hitch. I have zero, and I mean ZERO yaw, shake, rattle, flex, nothing.
I just got one myself! When you install the mototote into the hitch reciever, when bike is loaded, is it normal to see flex/bend around the tow hitch reciever? Also which hole did u use for the anti wobble bolt? 1st,2nd,3rd hole?
No, he didn't screw the bolt in all the way or properly. I saw that too and cringed.
@@johnsnow2022 Valar Morgulis
What hitch class does yor suv have installed? Mine is a class lll and says max tongue carry weight is 500lbs. 450lbs for my r1 and 99lbs for the carrier...
How did u go about it? I have same issue..
@@nometalgearr it did well on a 200 km ride, though I reinforced the hitch, but suspension lowers a lot due to weight.
Read my response above. Swap your Class 3 to a Curt Class 4. Class 4 is 1,000 tongue weight rated.
I just Baugh one , but now I’m thinking, what about we don’t see the plate car anymore at the back ?
drop a gear and disappear! ..........oh wait
@@koopspook with my suv ahaha , ho wait yeah 😅