Is A Smaller Bike More Fun?
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- čas přidán 18. 02. 2023
- With the likes of Jack Moir & Innes Graham choosing to size down on their EWS racing bikes, you can begin to wonder whether or not smaller bikes make more sense? If they don't make any sense for the normal everyday rider, are they just more fun to ride? Doddy is out in the Forest of Dean trail centre to find out!
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Why didn’t you set the bikes up with the same BB to bar length by adjusting stack height and/or stem and bar?
I was 5’10” but shrunk to 5’9”. In both cases, at the time, Medium frames (430ish reach) were def easier to man-handle, if a bit cramped. After a rough enduro race though I was pretty firmly in the “my next bike is a large” camp (450 reach-ish). Mainly for extra stability in chonk. When I got around to demoing large frames (at 475ish reach) I felt noticeable differences in handling. I was more of a passenger, but new larges were roomier, good for chunk, and jumping stability. Since then, modern mediums (450+ reach) along with slacker HTA and longer chainstays, have made Meds more capable where large frames are/were better suited. And they still retain a more lively ride everywhere else (very important in New England!). I’m so glad I stuck with medium frames, instead of living a lie on a large frame and hating riding. YMMV of course! In the desert or places with speeds over 20mph, large might start to show its stability benefits.
I just went back, too.Exact same feelings as you about M vs Lg.
He moved the saddle back to make the smaller bike fit, which unweighted the front end and became his deal breaker.
If he put the saddles in the same positions and then used an appropriately longer stem, it wouldn’t have unweighted the front.
wouldn't that just make you feel like you're going over the bars?
Had my 29er stolen recently. While I wait for my new one, I’ve been riding my old 26” hard tail. As sketchy as it feels, it’s certainly more lively and fun to throw around.
Just bought an XS specialized status for my wife. I rode it after I built it up, and outside of the seat tube length, it just reminded me of the reach of one of my old bikes from 2016. I'm tall enough for a large, but I usually ride a medium or medium/large depending on brand. The XS status was so much freaking fun as soon as I hopped on it. Definitely will make a fun park/jumps bike on the side!
At 6' tall I find large trail bikes that are supposed to fit are hard on my wrists and back when seated on longer rides. Medium is also more nimble and fun. Where you put your body weight gets more response from a smaller bike too.
Surely it comes down to personal preference ? I am 6'1" , on the cusp of a large and extra large. My last two bikes I rode in a mullet set up on was an XL the last one a large. However when ordering my most recent Ebike I researched all the numbers going back on bikes I have owned over the last 10 years and found the one I had the most fun on to be a large 2015 Jekyll with numbers that pretty much matched a medium Pivot Shuttle.
I took the plunge , ordered a medium and absolutely love it ! Granted have had to change out the seat post dropper to a longer one, slid the saddle back and play with the bar height and roll but have enjoyed finding the sweet spot for me with a medium. I am also keeping I as a 29er , the shorter wheelbase enables it to be just a playful cornering as a mullet in an XL or large.
All the above is though my "personal preference"
A lot of the things you point out on the Large as annoying are also things I have noticed when I have ridden "small" XL frames, sure they are easier to get around in the tight and twisty segments, but a pure pain on steep climbs and they are affected a lot more by the slightest movement of the body. So for me it's personally a no brainer to go with a XL or even XXL, since I do get that comfortable climbing position and I feel like I can hit corners harder because my positioning on the bike is better.
I am 5'11 with super long limb -6'1 tip to tip, 35 inch legs. My first bike was a L hardtail with 470 reach 433chainstay length, I always thought that was too big while I was learning tricks(bunny hop, wheelie and manual), finally I saw a great deal and purchased a Medium frame with 450 reach 425 chainstay, I also bought 27.5 rims. When learning tricks and riding on XC trails, I definately notice it is more nimble and maneuverable. However, I took my bike to steeper, more dh/enduro trails, this bike feels super nerves, feels like I could go over the bar, or loop out too easily(it never actually happens, but it makes me nervous). Now I went back to a Large FS enduro bike, with 475mm reach and 445 chainstay. Feels good on enduro/downhill trails, but I am overbiked a little on flat, it's ok for me. Flat and climb are for fitness anyways, the inefficiency of over biking is actually more efficient for my goal, I can get the same amount of workout in shorter period and distance.
Good video as always Doddy👍
When I look back at my old bikes they look so small now! Loved riding everyone of them though:)
Modern geometry has improved the capability and changed what we can ride, with trails progressing as well.
You gotta demo a few bikes to see what suits you.
Yup , my thoughts exactly. Gave my smaller bike to my brother. While it is certainly more flickable and controllable to me than my large frame. I had to add stem risers for comfort and my weight was too far back.
Just got back into Mtb after a bit of a 'life break". The new way of sizing by length, rather than by height (seat tube length) makes so much more sense. I've got a long body and short legs, so never found a fit I was truly happy with.
I’ve got that same issue re body proportions. It’s only in the last few years I’ve been able to find bikes long enough for my upper body and reach, but low enough for a safe standover. Just took the plunge on a 2022 XL with 510mm reach. It’s a revelation!
@@donaldduck9727 it probably comes with 175mm crank arms. Change it up to 165mm and feel the difference. I'm 6'2 and ride an XL and every bike I've ever owned has had 175. I never knew the difference that shorter crank arms would make for me. Could not believe I could ever be faster and ride better with shorter cranks but I absolutely do.
when I built my hard tail I chose the highest BB and shortest chainstays I could find. I have a long low Full Sus bike for tough terrain but we have a lot of trails that those bikes sucknall the fun out of. But ride them on a short high bike and all of a sudden every side hit or bump in the trail becomes a jump and those trails become fun again.
I recently went back to a medium from a large and definitely prefer the smaller bike. I’m 177cm so in between medium and large on most manufacturers charts. I’ll definitely be sticking with the medium from now on.
If you're riding and racing different trails all the time, agility will always win out even for an average Joe like me. I used to be on the cusp of medium to large, now on reach figures alone with nearly every bike out there I'd have to go for a small! The fact pros are leaning away from the forced "trends" by going smaller bikes and stuff like 31.8 bars over 35mm says a lot.
Nice to see the use of the RAD measurement I'm curious to know how different the bottom bracket to center of grip measurement is from the bottom bracket to the line through the center of the grips.
I’d love for you to do another video I fit right between almost all manufacturers L-XL at 190cm and never know what to choose
At 171cm and a RAD of 79cm, I'm usually in the overlap between a small and medium frame.
I owned a 2015 Giant Reign 27.5, and a 2022 Scott Spark, both with 440 reach, but I had to really weight shift to get my front wheel up on flat drop offs for both bikes, then I bought a 2022 Trek Slash in 425 reach and immediately felt that I had more control of the bike - drop offs where much more controllable, instead of just being a passenger, and I'd say know how a bike reacts with the different sizing on the types of trail you want to ride is just as important.
From then, I sized my bike for trail jumps and drop offs, and for me that means being able to control the bike coming into a jump, and for me a RAD measurement makes more sense to me, but it does mean steep seat angles just don't work for me, and geo like Giants current lineup just put me to close to the bars.
I have been biking for almost 35 years. I always went for a size smaller. Now I know why. Great video.
Definitely be interesting to get Rich’s opinion on the two bikes👍
apart from my road bike & bmx i have always had a slightly smaller mtb frame than what is ideal for somebody at 6ft-6, riding mountains or trials type manoeuvring a smaller frame for me is just spot on, but yeah any uphill or long flats do start to become a bit uncomfortable, but it's never really for to look good so i have stuck with using a smaller mtb
I always size up. I’m no pro and never going to be so I always choose big and stable.
more stable and comfy you say
Really made think this vid, I’ve just put a short stem on my hardtail and can really the difference. I’m thinking of switching back, just because I don’t use it for downhill. It’s my training bike and I use my 26er smaller bike for playing… Would love to see rRch get involved. Keep these vids coming Doddy, they’re worth their weight in gold.
Hey Stu! Thanks for watching! It's crazy what a stem can do to the feel of your bike! It would be so interesting to get Rich involved to see what difference a smaller frame makes on a downhill run. Cheers for the support!
I used to think I preferred a smaller bike since I mostly rode bmx and dj bikes, but once I got a new modern full suspension in the right size for me I definitely prefer that for pretty much all types of riding. A smaller size is good at bike parts with smooth jump lines and stuff but I still take my bigger bike now.
I switched from an agile XC/Trail hardtail to an XL spectral enduro recently and I've definitely had to get used to it not being able to fit certain places. That said, it's perfect fit for me and on anything but very tight switchbacks it's been an absolute dream so far. The right balance on the bike is hard to beat in terms of handling and comfort both on the way up and down.
How tall are you?
@@ZZ-xv2gh 6'3 ~ 193 cm
Yes! Please have Rich ride the larger bike. I'm in-between sizes like he is. Bought a large Pivot Switchblade and it felt pretty sketchy at speed and was hard to keep the front down on climbs. I traded it in for an XL and can get the same seated position. Bike solved most all of my complaints but yes, it's a little more work in the super technical stuff or fast corners. Have thought about going back to the large but... Would love to hear his thoughts on the subject as well. Thanks for the great reviews!
Nice vid. I'm usually riding a L frame, but generally ride a ML or M modern trail bike now days. My partner also is technically a M size, but rides a S with ease. Best option is to play around. Different models and different setups can affect bike fit and comfort, rather than just the size chart.
Great video dod! I'd like to see a part two with anna. Being shorter I bet her results would be significantly different or not!! Let see!
And just like that 26” wheels came crashing back on the scene couple a smaller frame with smaller diameter wheels make the bikes much more responsive and “flickable” manoeuvrable. #Fun
26 aint dead :)
A closer look at a rider’s build is important. I’m 6’4”, but I have long legs and shorter torso in comparison. As a result, I’m much more comfortable on size Large enduro bikes but ride XL on trail bikes with more conservative geometry. The front center on modern XL enduro bikes are very long and require a very intentional weight shift towards the front of the bike while cornering to maintain traction over the front tire
#GMBNTech Thank you so very much for making this video Dottie. I’ve been on a 2017 Santa Cruz 5010 since buying it new. In the last two years I’ve been admittedly self conscious about my bike. I’ve felt the pressure to buy new thinking I’m missing out thinking the latest and greatest is far better than what I’m on now. You’ve made me feel that I’m just fine on the bike I have and it’s making my skills improve on the smaller “more fun” bike. I appreciate you putting in the time to explain the differences.
New for next year 26" wheels for more agility 🤣
Yeah so funny hahahaha.
26" is still the best size.
I'm 5'5" in between small an medium size. I own two bikes Norco Optic s medium 450mm reach and that Orbea Rallon s small 435mm reach
I run a 35mm stem on the Optic and a 45mm stem on the Rallon. That gives me a 5mm difference in reach. Very similar feeling on the bike.
Personally I'm like Doddy i am 6ft 6in. So when i got my new Santa Cruz Nomad! (my yeti got stolen) i went straight to the xxl size. I also think with a few rides under my belt now that a mx setup works well with a longer wheelbase. At least it does on this bike. More importantly i like what Doddy said at the end, You have to get to know yourself and your riding. That is by far the most important part about finding the right bike for you. Im a big guy who rides a lot of park in the rocky mountains but i also pedal and race some enduros so i got an enduro bike. But compare the Nomad to the Megatower and the Nomad's characteristics are more like what Doddy is describing with the smaller bike. So maybe a big bike with mix wheels is the way to go for some people? Seems to be working great for me so far!
technical correction @2:52
Putting the front wheel further forward, will UNLOAD the wheel. So the bike will, in fact, climb worse and the front end is more likely to wander. However, it is more difficult to wheelie, because of the added leverage of the heavy front wheel requires more torque to get into wheelie
I think so I got a large and felt it was way too big should have purchased a medium despite the manufactures recommendation. The weight difference was significant change went from an old 98 norco that weighed less than 20lb to a large HT weighing 35lb!
I would think with a smaller size bike the rider would tend to ride more aggressive and push the limits because apart from the light weight, you'd sense the bike be more agile/nimble with it's shorter wheelbase.
Very true! Although, you could argue the other way, as longer bikes will have more stability. This means you can shred down trails harder and feel more comfortable at speed. It's a tricky decision to make. 👍
nope i disagree bigger bikes are more stable and it gives you more confidence and hence ride faster and more aggressive, thou smaller bikes are better for tech and this where i'm personally more aggressive on the bike and invite the titchyness. Decending is a different matter and I'm way less aggressive! its f***ing scary when your front wheel twitches at high speed and your heart jumps out your chest and you can bend a pound coin with a**hole, its not a bike you would want to be more aggressive on. Free riding is perfect for smaller bikes NOT DH racing aggressively
I like a shorter wheel base and smaller wheels for jumping and tricks. When I had switched from bmx dirt jumping to mtb it took some time to get used to a much bigger heavier bike
Thanks Doddy, Being 6ft 2in it is difficult to decide what size to purchase. I currently ride an XL and think about trying a large for the reasons you stated.
I'm 6'0 and I've been considering a medium for my next bike.
@@diegovillacrez8349 that is small. Have you race or been on BMX bikes previously?
@@RayHarmon No I haven't but I do have a large hardtail that is almost too large for me. I put a 35 mill stem on it and that alleviated the situation but I also ride predominantly XC trails and like to be able to climb, so I'll try slamming it a little more as well to see if it helps the climbing.
Both my Medium and Large mtb´s have the same stem lenght of 70mm they only thing i really notice when i ride the large size mtb i feel a litte bit out strench out on the first 200 meter.
Ask gmbn tech. Hello Doddy, I was wondering how often I should replace my helmet? No crashes, just old. Thanks in advance for any information you can offer. And always happy riding!
I’ve been agonizing over this! I bought a Pivot trail 429 in medium a few months ago but haven’t been able to ride it yet because there’s too much snow. I’m 5’7 1/2”. Pivot says I should be on a small. Dealer says medium. Both feel close sitting on them. I don’t wanna make the wrong decision. Any input is appreciated
I recently purchased my first ebike, a Rocky Mountain altitude powerplay second hand and was worried after being spoon fed that reach numbers are everything and at 440 for me being in the middle of a size medium and large at 5 9” it’s spot on. People are starting to realise things are going to far, I mean look at the geometron bikes which to me are way too long. My last bike was a 5010 large that was 456 in reach and was ok but I’m very comfy on my old school geometry bike.. I like the bmx track as much as everything else
14:07 seconds in, is that a Xduro Nduro Pro I've got one of those Fantastic bikes Great Video Doddy!
🤘😎🤘
👍great video, ride a large at 185cm tall, but could ride XL with a shorter stem, the large is easier to throw around and is more playful👌
Thanks for watching, Steve! Yeah, stem length would be a good thing to change if you were to ride a larger frame. 👍
Ah, the good old story about overcompensating. We had bikes too short for too long, we shortly got to bikes too long.
So true! It's never perfect for everyone! 😂
I’m 6’3”, but canyon recommends a size large for full suspension bikes and xl for hard-tails for me. I bought what they recommend and it fits well.
Canyon fitting is to size down compare to everyone else. I’m normally a L with other brands, but canyon recommended M for their brands. I think they got it right.
I agree, the Canyon large fits me well. My Specialized and Trek are perfect at XL.
I went from a 2009 Orange G3 sized medium to a 2021 Ragley Big Al sized medium. Initally I was concerned about the bigger wheels, longer reach and slacker head angle. Would I be able to move it around tighter turns, etc and would it climb as well as the G3.. The Ragley does all those things brilliantly and much better than the older geometry of the G3. As an amputee rider I'm kinda sensetibve to changes and need a bike that climbs very efficiently and from my perspective modern mountain bike geometry ( and tech advances) has made mountain biking more fun, easier, safer and less strain in the body.
My main thing is stand-over height, I need all I can get, I may be 5'11 and most sizing charts suggest Large (or 18-19 in the old sizing standards), but I feel way more confident on a medium, and I don't just mean larger Mediums(17), I mean like 15-16, like the smaller mediums/medium-small, specially because I like to over-fork and over-tire my bikes, with little sag, and that brings everything higher up, on technical trails I want the absolute lowest stand-over height I can get. Reach be damned, I can always tweak my reach with saddle, stem, and handlebar changes/adjustments. It might be an old-school way of doing things, but it's the only way I can really feel confident on knarly trails.
Yes it would be nice for rich to test ride both bikes back to back and compare the feel from his perspective
Just curious regarding frame size I have small size frame 27.5 wheels full sus MTB. My actual height 178 - 179 cm, about 5'10 feet I purchase the bike very cheap because previous owner say no one to buy because size S. Most people definitely looking for size M and I decide to buy. After a few month ride I didn't notice my hand reach to handle not really big issue and I can't spot the different because I have hardtail 29er size M. I believe the hardtail more faster but I think size S frame maybe more fun to ride. Anyway I'm here to find out is it okay to ride size S frame, because my height suitable for size L frame isn't?
Great to see Martyn on the tech show.
I'm 5'9"/175cm and chose a medium Occam over the large. But it's not like like I'm quite firmly in the large camp and instead right on the cutoff and I'm not a very experienced rider.
What are the stem lengths? I kept thinking Doddy should have put a 50mm stem on the size Large
What is the wheelbase for both bikes??
I would like to have both a large and extra-large mountain bike so I could test the difference but I don't live close enough to any bike shops to really do some in-depth research and test ride bikes and I don't have the money to buy multiple bikes.
26 bmx cruiser , new must have after 40 years
I've never thought about using my nose on the touchscreen, thanks Doddy 😀
The more you know! 😉
The last MTB i bought was in 2013; a CrMo Salsa El Mariachi. I think its XC/Trail focused with 100mm fork. The HTA is a super steel 71, but the chainstays are super long, at 450 mm. I cant manual this bike to save my life. Before COVID I was really like a Trek Stache with its super short chainstays. I am concerned that now days, most 'trail' bikes are around 66 degrees and are much longer than my Salsa, which already feels like a Limo on a size XL. For trail riding with an equal mix of up and down hill and a lot of pedaling over flat terrain, will the modern trail bikes be the right geometry for me?
Yes, I own a 2014 el mariachi and hardly ride it. The geo is so much less comfortable and confident in technical riding. The el mariachi forces you to hang off the the back descending. Modern trail bikes you can get over the front or stay centered more or less for control.
I’m 177 and i always pick the medium one
still a better lovestory than twilight!
Cool idea to test this, but I'm afraid you've gone about it the wrong way. First of all setup both bikes correctly that means bar height, stem length, bar rise, ride angle, SAG etc. As you've done, you're compromising setup on one bike to compare it to the other. May well be that you're size XL and your bike is a perfect fit for you, but I don't think you've done the smaller one justice either way
But this is their M.O. this is what they do they are very unscientific at gmbn. They do little to no research on physics and biology, which is what riding a bike is absolutely subject to. They never do exact comparative analysis and their Baseline is unreliable. If one were to place a confidence interval on their analysis and conclusions it in all probability it would be somewhere in the 70 to 75 CI range. Which would render all of their data unreliable and not credible.
@@rider65 Absolutely agreed. I know it's their MO and I do not like it, that's why I am calling them out on it, to hopefully get something better in the future. Not getting my hopes too high though
@@plainuser48596 I know it's absolutely frustrating. They've been doing this for years and years and years and getting away with it! The majority of people who follow them think they're the greatest thing since sliced bread when it comes to knowledge. I'm not questioning their skill & their experience, but when they start to dabble in things they don't have any idea about or do not do the proper research it's cringe-worthy mate!
I do like bigger bikes on Trail and more gravity focused riding (but I have been riding for some time my Trailbike is about as long as my old Demo (2013 model)) and I think it is perfect!!! On my XC Hardtail I like it shorter because it feels more active... To sum it up my preference depend on what I want from my bike... ;-)
"Feeling" is a perception and not a reality. Has nothing to do with physics proper setup and proper reach and stack. Oh my goodness...🤦♂️
@@rider65 Well for me a least how the bike feels is one of the most important things... If I feel comfortable on the bike I ride with more confidence... And by the way what do you mean with the physics of proper setup? And by the way perception is a part of reality... Your and my reality are and interpretation of stimuli by our brain in relation to past experiences and emotional impact...
I know Jack Moir who should be on an XL uses a large because he finds it so much more maneuvrable which to me suggest more fun
3:18 what video is he talking about? There are only generic and sponsor links in the desciption
I ride a Canyon Spectral 125 CF9. After entering my measurments into Canyons site it suggested a Medium (I am 183cm with 81cm leg). I had ridden large for a long time but this suggestion surprised me. Anyway, I got the bike and it just seems right. I think Canyons frames are slightly larger than normal?
Thanks that's good feedback. I'm looking to buy a Neuron. I'm 183 as well and the Medium recommendation throws me off!
I size down
I tried a 29' and 27,5' bike....ill stick to my 26' Wheeler....lower,tighter ride🤙
That 'stem' at 3:25 🕵️🤗
Suspension feels better on heavier bikes too, better unsprung to sprung weight ratio. Also as old xc racer you would figure that people would just embrace slugging the heavy bikes up the hill as a sign of toughness. These enduro riders doing big rides on heavy bikes more of a feat than xc races today where you can swap out flats every lap. At least old school xc bikes you had to finish race with what you started and that forced bikes to get tough enough to last through a tough race. Today xc bikes are not geared for that type of racing and riding, they run borderline parts. A xc race tire would flat pretty darn quickly on most every ride I do.
Good video:)
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Im also between sizes, thank god they don’t make trail bikes in xxxl so im good with an xxl. ❤😅
Is an inch difference in length really going to make that much difference to how they ride?
For me, yes, I can feel all around.
Depends on how small
I'm 5'3", smaller bikes are the only things that I can ride. Even my dh enduro bike feels large to me, and it's a small.
Switched last year from a Kona Big Honza DL large to Kona Process 134 small and it has been amazing. A ton more fun and no more shoulder pain.
Kona size charts had me in either a large or medium frame. I did my RAD calculation from Lee Likes Bikes and it had me on a small.
RAD is utter nonsense. There's many factors RAD doesn't account for. Two bikes with ultimately very different setups can have identical RAD and RAAD values. Both are completely useless.
@@meteormedia7021 Utter nonsense based on what? What is your suggested alternative? Useless As compared to manufacturers size charts that only take height into consideration and trend towards putting people on bikes that are too large for them.
The RAD calculation may not be perfect but it's the best down and dirty formula to find a range of bikes and sizes that fit a rider. You can then take a particular model out try a couple sizes and see what works best. Without the RAD calculation there is no way I would have tried and ultimately bought a small frame.
@@meteormedia7021 So you saying half of the enduro and downhill guys/girls don't know what they are on about? They use the RAD method. Sounds like your comment is utter nonsense.
I size down every bike now a days. Feel they’ve gotten way too long at least for my body and riding style
I’m 6’3” and ride a large in most frames
6foot riding an XL Nomad V5 (497mm reach) couldn't be happier
I predicted this would be the case after the longer/slacker trend. 😆
I am between sizes S and M - and I picked S. It looks like a mistake tough. The bike feels very nervous and unstable, I do not enjoy the ride and thinking about buying frame size M.
When you say it feels nervous, is it in the steering? Is it when you are going downhill? Is it riding along fairly flat or undulating Trails is it smooth is it Rocky you have to be more specific. A low-cost modification would be to increase the stand length Maybe by 10mm to 15mm. Maybe a handlebar with a slight more rise.
@@rider65 yes, I am considering using longer stem and probably handlebar with more rise. All the issues are on downhills so I will search for suspension tunner advise as part of the shortcomings of the bike look suspension-related.
@@finroddd okay yes if it's feeling Twitchy just on the downhill it could be that the front fork is not properly set up. Specifically with regard to rebound. Without knowing much else I would say your rebound is probably set too fast. A bit more Rise on the bar and a slightly longer stem will definitely make the bike a bit more stable for you. And obviously setting up the suspension at a proper Baseline is very critical. 👍 obviously the first setting you want to get right is the SAG. I would say somewhere between 15% and 25% on the front depending on your riding style, where you do the most of your riding (i.e. fast and flowy, undulating, or technical with a lot of roots and rocks) I think a baseline of 20% in the front and if you had a rear shock 25% in the rear you don't want to go more than a 5% difference because you will unbalance the bike under shifting your body weight and under braking with regard to load transfer.
@@rider65 thank you for the detailed answer! The thing is that I am using coil suspension front and back. The coil for the fork is medium as it should be according to my weight. The coil for the shock is probably a bit too hard so I will change it.
I just saw Bountain Mike on a Mountain Bike today 😂
Sry i had too
Getting a custom steel frame built by Marino now. It's a 26" bike using 853 Reynolds.
27.5 and 29" SUCK
26/27.5 is where it's all dude..
That's how I've just rebuilt my full squish and it's the most fun, capable and versatile bike that suits my riding, terrain and style absolutely
Enjoy being slow AF on the trail Brody..lol..
@@joshuaallswang8016 Enjoy getting passed by me every day until the year 2080.
I own a Nicolai Saturn 16 medium in a mullet setup. I'm 6" and it has a reach of 490mm. It's rediculous.
I recently bought a 2012 Canyon Torque FRX that I rebuilt, with a reach of 430mm and I absolutely love the thing. Could also be because it's on 26 inch wheels but regardless, it's great fun
Why don't you guys investigate the speculations made by Lee McCormack, Joy of Bikes, Jeff Lenowsky and such? bb-to-hands measurements (or Rider Area Distancce as Lee calls it) should matter a lot more than the bike size per se.
I wished this video could be as informative as Doddy's contents usually are, but when he said he fitted Rich's bike by moving the seat back instead of moving the handlebars forward (rear end of the bike is the same for every size), and that he didn't set suspensions the same, he lost me. of course they're going to feel too different, and of course you're going to enjoy the bike that you're used to, more.
To be fair he actually did a RAD check with the BB to handlebar measurement. I think riders who want to know more about that should def check out Joy of Bike and Lees channels!
@@rpiian he checked bb-to-grips, McCormack defines RAD as a measurement parallel to the frame, so, similar but not the same.
My question should have been: would you investigate further on the specific matter? with no polemical connotation, really.
@@stefanodruetta Ah yea, you’re right. Missed that. I do feel like it was enough to highlight the frame size difference, at least. I think it is worth mentioning but as there have been whole videos about RAD in itself I’m not sure he’d bother covering it. But I love the topic personally so I wouldn’t mind a deep dive on it!
@@rpiian true dat, there are few videos about RAD, that’s why I’d like to see others investigating the subject. My experience suggests that RAD is not a fad, my bike started feeling right when I tweaked a few things in order to get as close to my ideal RAD as possible (improved handling, bunny hopping, jumping), while I see friends struggling on bikes that are longer than what they’d require..
@@stefanodruetta 100% - out of all the bikes I’ve had, the ones closest to RAD have rode the best for all around riding.
Down Hill you want a bigger frame otherwise small is Grand :)
Missing a bar end plug.
I feel like you missed the point of the smaller bike by not setting suspension for your higher weight.
Also, you are today accustomed to a larger bike. You should have brought in someone being accustomed to using, for them, a relatively smaller sized bike. And then you could discuss the pros and cons of running a smaller or larger bike from the two different perspectives. This video, for me, only brought up the perspective of the larger bike, only glancing into the other. But, it's a good start!
A couple of years later they will introduce the Higher, Shorter, Steeper frames. :p
I love my little 27.5 jib bike, loads of fun and quick handling.
Smaller bike won't climb as well, if it's sitting further into its rear travel because the spring rate is too low.. would have been a better comparison with the same spring rate on both bikes. This is exacerbated by the saddle position being further to the rear on the smaller bike with the softer rear spring
bike size seems to be a science on itself. #askgmbntech Is that true that for people with longer torsos a bike with a size higher than recommended is better? Is also true that for people with longer legs than torso like me a shorter bike size than recommended is better? I've usually chosen to do that more than once and it worked fine for me or I am missing something?
Rider area distance
If people can have fun with BMX bikes, then they can have fun on "small" MTBs.
Mine is small, it’s known that I have of a lot of fun 😅
Smaller bikes more fun on a tighter smaller tracks but terrible on a more faster modern trails, while bigger bikes are more fun on faster bigger trails.
Same for jumping.
Modern trails = wheelchair trails.
@@strongerthanyouallday I'd rather ride a modern butter smooth trail that has plenty of features and opportunities to get airborne and make shapes.. I went out to some "natural" trails recommended a few weeks ago and had the worst ride I've had in a long time, not because I couldn't ride the rooty rough stuff, it just wasn't rewarding.. the trails were built in an illogical way.. just a bunch of jive 😅
Give me modern any day.. I'll go flat out
fast and make some glorious shapes on my 26/27.5 play bike..
@@OLI-vx1md Sounds like you needed to ride a better hand-built trail.
I ride a small bike, I'm only 5.6 but I have long legs and a short body. Because of my spine.
It would be amazing to add cm/m when talking in person-size
Awesome 👍🤘
Thanks! ✌️
I’m 5’4” riding a small Trek Top Fuel. I prefer the smaller size as I’m controlling the bike much more. Would I be faster on a medium? Maybe, but riding isn’t always about going faster.
At 5ft 4in you are on the cusp of the small or the extra small so. You would definitely not be faster on a medium you would have trouble with the reach and stack Heights therefore you would have to adjust the fore and aft of the saddle and you would have to change the stem size in order to fit the bike somewhat properly. This would change the Dynamics and place you in less than an optimal position. This would affect your speed and your control which would both suffer. Don't listen to these dolts who know nothing about biology and physics. The only two aspects in the universe that control everything are biology and physics. 👌
@@rider65 according to the shop that I purchased the bike from Im right on the cusp of small or medium hence my comment.
@@mephotography9829 Unfortunately they have given you incorrect and unreliable information. I'm guessing you're inseam is somewhere between 27 to 29 in. Of course I can reach height are very important some extra small frames will be different than others some small frames will be different than others it does depend on the manufacturer.
General size guide:
47cm / 48cm size frame
RIDER HEIGHT 5'0”-5'5”
RIDER INSEAM INCHES Measured from crotch to floor 28.0”-29.5”
@@rider65 Not according to Treks own sizing charts or the Trek dealer where I was specifically measured and purchased the bike from. 😂
Did Doddy forget a bar end plug on his bike?
It seems so! 😬
Great bike , rides smooth czcams.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing .
As someone with a 372mm reach and a 670mm inseam, I don't really have that much of a choice except to ride smaller bikes literally. XD