How To Fix Damaged Baseboard, Crown Moulding And Trim Like A Pro! DIY Tips & Tricks For Beginners!
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
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On This episode I'll be showing you how to fix damaged baseboard, crown moulding and trim like a pro! This are 3 Easy DIY methods and Tips and tricks, step by step, on how to fix and replace those heavily damaged baseboard trim and will also work and apply on crown moulding, door casing or any type of trim! Stay tuned and check out my own personal method that I created to help you save money and time!
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#baseboards #crownmoulding #Trim
Good job. Great way to show a couple of options based on tools available and skill level of the individual making the repair.
Thank you so much! I’m very glad I was able to be clear on my intention of the video 🙏🏽😊
Thanks for this video! Method #2 with wood filler worked great for me. My 7-year-old dog chewed baseboard and door casing when he was baby, and they are all fixed now or 7 years later. I had never got to it since I had thought I'd have to replace the whole pieces. By the way I wrapped a 2-foot scrap straight wood with sandpaper, and used it to maintain the shape when sanding.
Really enjoy how many different methods you have for a situation!
Thank you so much brother ! 🙏🏽😊
I already knew 2 ways, but your #3 is the new method I’m going to use for what I need! Thanks!
Method 3, you could have used the removed piece (provided edges intact as it was in your case) as a template to cut the new piece. Enjoyed it, as always
If you try to pull Brad nails or finish nails I use a pair of vive grips and pull the through the back side of the trim. If you try to drive them back through the front you will chip out the finish.
Also when filling with wood pudgy or body filler I sand it off first to get rid of the high spots and loose splitters. Makes it much easier to repair and it will stick better.
Good concise Video, and the different alternatives you can use to fix the same problem. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Great idea to use a template to cut baseboard to fit.
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much! Have a great new year! 👍🏽😊
Always Love your videos! You are so good at explaining the how & the why! Thank You 😊
Thank you so much! Really means a lot! Have an amazing rest of your day! 🙏🏽😊
Good job. One thing though. Put the putty knife behind the prybar when pulling the trim off so you don't break the sheetrock
Thank you so much for the advice! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
The third method is a good trick to have in your bag!
Third method: you should reverse the 45 degree cut so if there are brad nails you can pull it out. The inside 45 degree won’t allow you to pull out.
I like a mix of very fine sawdust and spackle
I liked method 3, quite a few steps and tools involved but like it.
For method 3 you do not need to cut a sacrificial board piece with two 45 degrees angles. Any board piece with at least one 45 degrees edge can be used to cut the two slits in the damaged baseboard. Then you can proceed with cutting the final board piece as you did. No extra board material is wasted.
I was thinking the same thing; good observation!
Super simple - thank you!
Can you use a thick tape, may six inch. Then paint it. I did looks like newwwwww I live in an apartment I fix it myself it's like 80 no new anywhere but cabinets.
First you need to find that darn Beaver in that house!!!
When I do I will have him help me with my bathroom Demo! Haha
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing this!
I do like Method #3 although I know my luck there will be a nail, much larger than a brad nail, right in the part I want to remove.
Question. Why take that measurement at the 10:23 mark when the piece you removed is the correct size minus the width of the multi-tool blade x 2?
... if you can see there's a nail just drill a hole on either side of it then grab the nail head with diagonal cutters and pry it out. If that fails, then use drift punch and drive the nail further into the wall. (level with the wallboard) Yes, you could use the piece you cut out and just allow for the saw kerf. (width of the blade) Worst case is you go long and have to shave it again.
method 3 would be better if the “jig,” used to reference your cut, was thicker. This would create more surface area for your tools blade to lay on, and would likely add some precision and better accuracy when making your plunge cut with the oscillating tool. See the right hand cut where it looks more open, and jagged in the beginning portion of the plunge.
I like your method. Looks good.
Hi! For method #2 after you sound smooth, would I just paint? Or is there something else I need to do?
Great videos man
Thank you so much brother! 🙏🏽😊
I use PVA on the exposed MDF when raised or swollen. You can then lightly sand it back. This does not look like a typical damaged baseboard. They usually swell up with water damage. Best Use timber, avoid MDF at all costs.
But when that what your doors and baseboards are made of, you do the best u can to repair.
Unfortunately. 😊
Can you use wood glue in place of the TP 10 glue? 12:08
very nice video congratulations
Thank you! 🙏🏽
@@FixThisHouse 🙏🙏🙏
very clever!
Thank you 🙏🏽!
why cant you cut straight in for method 3 vs having to mider 45 degrees?
got anything on kitchen cabinet laminate scratches or those edges?
How can you tell the baseboard is the right one as there are many brands.
What is that cutting tool you have???
Great video! Thank you :)
If your repair is going to be painted then don't use wood putty. Use "painter's putty". It doesn't accept stain but it's easier to sand smooth.
It’s called “Andersen base”
Why didn’t you just use that template itself to fill the gap you cut out?
Hi! It will be too short 🙏🏽😊
It would be too short by the width of the multi tool blade x2
@@djblock215 ... you could allow for that by cutting on the other side of your line.
starts at 13:14
Only issue with method 3 is it requires a saw
The proper way to do this is to replace the entire board. That way you don't end up with seams or an unsightly patch in the middle of your baseboard and you don't have to deal with trying to make paint match.
100% correct!
@@abdal-haqq1688 .... ahhhh, but in an older home you may not be able to match the trim, so you are stuck doing a repair!
@@rupe53 this is true but that's when you inform the home owner and explain that it won't be exact and let them decide...in my experience,9 times out of ten they understand that and opt with replacement as opposed to patching.
@@abdal-haqq1688 As a new home buyer I'm in this situation... Replace a few trim boards that are so old there is nothing available to match; or replace the whole house ($15000) so everything matches; or repair those boards. Not really worth it to replace IMO.
@@emissarygw2264 understandable. That's why as a contractor, I make sure the client is well informed then I give my opinion, then the final decision is always the customers.
Put a putty knife behind the prying tool or you could damage the wall.
👍👍🌹🌹
Thank you!
My dog damaged it right in a corner with 3 pieces.
Naughty cat
😂 yes those cats are intense! Lol
Bondo would have fixed that the best.
Get rid of the beaver
Wait, what? You end the video by saying "see, it should work. Just do a little more and it will turn out." Why not actually finish and show us?
I don't really get the practicality of some of your videos. You keep saying "in order to save money" or "it could get costly"... Or the difficulty...and sometimes it may.....but if you are a homeowner...it comes with the territory. I tell all my customers from materials to repairs, "Don't be tight when it comes to your house, this is your home, get it done right!"
If you are just giving options to dyi-ers, I get it...but the correct way to address this situation is to replace the damaged run.
That’s why I gave options. Everybody’s situation is different sir 👍🏽.
... you can only do a replacement if you can match the trim. If no match is available (older home?) then you are stuck doing a repair.
@@rupe53 in most of the older homes that I do, it's usually a 1X6 board with shoe moulding on top...you can come real close.
@@abdal-haqq1688 ... yeah, I was gonna mention that. OTOH, as we get closer to WW 1 era it was 5/4" and sometimes it's an odd shape. The hardest part to match these days is the newer 5/4 board doesn't jive in thickness. For an exterior trim you can pad it up with some roofing felt or plane down some 2 by material. Just depends on where it is. I recently did a repair on my own place where I didn't want to deal with a 16 ft piece of 5/4 so opted to splice in a trimmed piece of 2 by. This was on a corner board where the bottom was getting mushy so only took off maybe 2 ft. Not having to deal with 2 stories of clap siding getting damaged during removal was worth the effort.
just put white duct tape over it. Itll be ghetto, but itll be fixed lmao
😅💯
Stop rambling just get to the repair.
I’m here because my puppy decided to unfinished my door.