I think there must be a procedure on how to torque all those bolts on the front end components! Based on the problems lots of people have after doing all the replacement bushings, only to try and tighten their bolts, and having big problems once the car is lowered to the ground and normal tension placed on the bushings again. I'm thinking I'd try first torquing the bolts then loosening them with the as'y still in the air. Then tighten finger-tight, lower to ground, raise up again. Loosen bolt. torque nut half-torque, lower it enough to place some but not all weight on the ass'y. Then tighten and torque completely.
How'd you get the lower ball joint out when you replaced the lower rearward control arm? I know I'm going to end up tearing the rubber if I take it off so I'll have to replace that ball joint as well. That ball joint looks like it's going to be close to impossible for me to get off that's why my parts have been sitting in the shipping box for two weeks. But I have to replace that rearward control arm because the bushing looks completely torn apart.
First loosen remove the castle nut. Then disconnect tie rod, lower forward control arm, both upper control arms, and the strut lower bushing bolt. This completely frees the spindle from suspension components. Then just rotate the entire spindle to the left (front of car) and pull down on the lower ball joint boot enough to get a tie rod puller in there. That's how I did it. If you are going to replace the lower ball joint though, it's not a big deal if you damage the boot on the old one as it's getting replaced
I just replaced all the bushings on mine. I got a nisto bushing kit for 80 bucks and used appropriately sized sockets and a small sledge hammer to "press" them in. However it was way too much work. I'm planning to get a small press from harbor freight next time. I saw one for 119 bucks...so essentially could replace all.bushings for under 200 bucks DIY
@@getlost3094 I purchased the Moog lower control arms, one from rockauto.com and the other from Amazon. Did you replace the lower control arm ball joints?
@@ryannrjohnson yes I replaced it all. Lower control arm bushings, lower control arm steering knuckle ball joint, entire lower front control arm, upper control arm bushings, one passenger side upper control arm (had a bad ball joint), lower strut bushing, inner and outer tie rods. . I still have a little rattle on the right side. I checked upper control arm ball joints. They are fine. I will.check the lower forward just to make sure. I've checked everything...engine cowlings etc. Sway bar bushings. Maybe the.strut. idl.
I have a question for you. I have the same car and the dealership told me that the front lower ball joints need replacing but when I am on RockAuto, I don’t see what part they are. I see the control arms which have ball joints but you also mention ball joints as if they are a separate item. Can you let me know which part I need? Sounds like I don’t have to touch the control arms if I am understanding correctly.
I use the tire jack in the trunk and a block of wood to lift the rotor back to standard ride height. Make sure to measure the distance from the top of the wheel well to the center of the wheel hub. Mine is roughly 16-16.5 inches. Hope that helps.
measure from the center of wheel to fender lip with wheels on the ground. Then when on jack stands you can push up on on the rotor with a jack until its at the proper height as if it had the wheels on and was on the ground. It wont lift it off the jack stand.
Hi my friend Can I contact you on WhatsApp And send a video to you that shows you my problem I have a sound from the bottom. I replaced all the bushings and the sound is still there. Could it be from the ball joints?
@@elsiopanequedelacruz2557 Yes, I discovered it previously, I replaced the black piece with a used one It also had a problem Now I replaced it with a new one and the sound disappeared sound by Paul Joint, Black Widget
I think there must be a procedure on how to torque all those bolts on the front end components! Based on the problems lots of people have after doing all the replacement bushings, only to try and tighten their bolts, and having big problems once the car is lowered to the ground and normal tension placed on the bushings again. I'm thinking I'd try first torquing the bolts then loosening them with the as'y still in the air. Then tighten finger-tight, lower to ground, raise up again. Loosen bolt.
torque nut half-torque, lower it enough to place some but not all weight on the ass'y. Then tighten and torque completely.
Thank you!
Lmaoo last part. That’s how I’m tryna feel. Wish u was in cali Seem real passionate bout that Ls
Thanks for video, why do you think the upper arms were installed improperly? Thanks
Hopefully you still have the LS. How are the aftermarket parts holding up?
Are these responsible for the vertical? Or is it for the radius of the vehicle?
How'd you get the lower ball joint out when you replaced the lower rearward control arm? I know I'm going to end up tearing the rubber if I take it off so I'll have to replace that ball joint as well. That ball joint looks like it's going to be close to impossible for me to get off that's why my parts have been sitting in the shipping box for two weeks. But I have to replace that rearward control arm because the bushing looks completely torn apart.
First loosen remove the castle nut. Then disconnect tie rod, lower forward control arm, both upper control arms, and the strut lower bushing bolt. This completely frees the spindle from suspension components. Then just rotate the entire spindle to the left (front of car) and pull down on the lower ball joint boot enough to get a tie rod puller in there.
That's how I did it. If you are going to replace the lower ball joint though, it's not a big deal if you damage the boot on the old one as it's getting replaced
I just replaced all the bushings on mine. I got a nisto bushing kit for 80 bucks and used appropriately sized sockets and a small sledge hammer to "press" them in. However it was way too much work. I'm planning to get a small press from harbor freight next time. I saw one for 119 bucks...so essentially could replace all.bushings for under 200 bucks DIY
@@getlost3094 I purchased the Moog lower control arms, one from rockauto.com and the other from Amazon. Did you replace the lower control arm ball joints?
@@ryannrjohnson yes I replaced it all.
Lower control arm bushings, lower control arm steering knuckle ball joint, entire lower front control arm, upper control arm bushings, one passenger side upper control arm (had a bad ball joint), lower strut bushing, inner and outer tie rods. .
I still have a little rattle on the right side. I checked upper control arm ball joints. They are fine. I will.check the lower forward just to make sure.
I've checked everything...engine cowlings etc. Sway bar bushings. Maybe the.strut. idl.
@@getlost3094 what did you use to get off the ball joint that connects the lower rearward control arm?
I have a question for you. I have the same car and the dealership told me that the front lower ball joints need replacing but when I am on RockAuto, I don’t see what part they are. I see the control arms which have ball joints but you also mention ball joints as if they are a separate item. Can you let me know which part I need? Sounds like I don’t have to touch the control arms if I am understanding correctly.
The lower ball joint is part of the steering knuckle
@@SharkBearsUniteit is but you can press in new ball joints
Is this car awd or rwd
How do you tighten bolts to a car once tires are already on the ground
I use the tire jack in the trunk and a block of wood to lift the rotor back to standard ride height. Make sure to measure the distance from the top of the wheel well to the center of the wheel hub. Mine is roughly 16-16.5 inches. Hope that helps.
measure from the center of wheel to fender lip with wheels on the ground. Then when on jack stands you can push up on on the rotor with a jack until its at the proper height as if it had the wheels on and was on the ground. It wont lift it off the jack stand.
Is the one you did awd
It was RWD with air suspension
I’d pay you to do mine. I live in Texas too.
Hi my friend
Can I contact you on WhatsApp
And send a video to you that shows you my problem
I have a sound from the bottom. I replaced all the bushings and the sound is still there. Could it be from the ball joints?
Hi. Could you find the fault? I have the same sound
@@elsiopanequedelacruz2557 Yes, I discovered it previously, I replaced the black piece with a used one It also had a problem Now I replaced it with a new one and the sound disappeared sound by Paul Joint, Black Widget
@@alaradi9825 thanks 👌
Is this the AWD?
Doesn't look like it.
If you're doing this on a AWD it's the same process.
Parts will be different.
@@Laggy200ms That's my problem, I can't tell the difference by looking at it. How were you able to tell?
You can see there isn't a front drive shaft.
@@Laggy200ms oh yea...lol duh Thanks my bro!
You did not use genuine Toyota parts and used after market ones. These won't last 4 months..😢
I have heard horror stories on how long the cheap ones last. I’m still trying to figure out the best plan of attack on mine
Sounds like you have experienced it first hand? Tell me it ain't true...
😂 😂 😂 Smooth ls sexual passionate riding