Learned a trick yesterday. If you cant get it out, put the drum on backwards with the lug nuts half on.. then use the drum as a slide hammer. Worked in 3 jerks for me, and no damage to threads.
Thank you, much appreciated! Very nice, cool car, only 1 year, very rare. Glad you liked and enjoyed my video, and glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Great video bro. I agree with those old seals getting fused to the axle tube. Once they start to rust, it’s almost like they’re welded in place and it takes a act of God to remove them. One thing I always do is the run some grease on the inside of the seal where the ring spring is. This helps break in the seal and prevents the spring from popping out when you install the axle. Cheers 👍🏻
Thanks bud I appreciate it, yeah i know right, it’s crazy how hard those little seals get stuck. That’s good advice, I always rub some around where the axle rides but not in where the spring is, the more oil applied the better, so I’ll start putting some there as well. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
That was pretty good. I usually pack the grease seal with grease on the back side so the spring doesn't pop out and the grease never hurt anything. Lol
Thanks, much appreciated. Yeah that’s a good idea, I’ve never had a spring pop out of the seal so that’s probably why I’ve never thought of it but never hurts. No such thing as too much grease when it comes to rearend a and gears lol. Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 I see it ever so often. I tear down gear boxes that leak from other companies and it seems the spring comes out on them and those are the ones leaking. Old guy I was working with said it's a grease seal so pack it and that won't happen so I definitely do it.
@@richardnott9587 I hear ya man, he’s not wrong lol, can’t beat that old school experience and wisdom. I’ll have to keep that in mind from now on, I’ll have to start doing that just for safe measure, especially with the quality of part we’re getting now days. Thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching.
To get those seals out put a chisel across the width of the seal,and hit it with a hammer.This distorts the seal,and loosens it in the bore.After that they should be loose enough to remove with your fingers.
Great job. I got a Ford 9in 28sp I need a axle seal oreilly got 2 with the same part number any suggestion, which one to buy one is cheaper than the other?
Thank you, much appreciated, glad you liked the video. Well if it’s the same seal then it shouldn’t really matter, I’ve used national seals which is usually my go to seal because they’re more known but I have used the Oriellys masterpro seals also and never had a problem with them personally, either will be fine, so I’d say it’s more up to your personal preference really. Hope this helps, good luck on your repair. Thanks for watching.
Yeah, idk, the only one with tapered bearings I ever messed with was my truck and I haven’t had a problem with them. As long as everything is in good shape it shouldn’t be a problem. The one thing I definitely like better about the tapered bearing ones is that they constantly get greased from the gear oil in the rearend. I like the regular inline roller bearing versions too though, they last along time being sealed. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
@lol123321123321 you are absolutely correct, they are in deed. They both have their purposes and uses but the tapered bearings are definitely better for heavy vehicles and towing and off roaring. Thanks for sharing Thanks for watching.
Nice truck! I assume it has the ford 9 inch with 28 splines which use seal part#51098, I got them from Oriellys auto parts. Sometimes their system isn’t the greatest on finding stuff for the old vehicle’s. A lot of the time I’ve noticed they’ll have it, they just don’t know what it’s called or it’s named something else in the system. Also I have another video on my channel I just recently posted called ford 8/9 inch gear swap/converting from 28 to 31 spline axles. I show the difference between the 28 and 31 bearings and seals because they are different, I also give the part#’s for them. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Damn, more than I thought it would be. Yeah you’re right about that, nothing cheap now days. That’s why I try to do as much as I can myself. It’s crazy out there. Thanks for watching.
Theoretically you want no axel play, but I’ve seen a lot of them with alittle in and out, but very little. I can’t tell you an exact specification on it because idk. I’d say no more than a 1/16. I’ll have to see if I can find an actual spec on that and get back to you.
One thing I forgot to mention is I’d check your axle retainer plates the bolt to the rear axle housing that holds the axles in. See if they are bent, I’ve seen them be bent before and that will cause some in and out play. Make sure they are flat and even.
Well that’s basically what I did with the cut off wheel but the bearing inner race has to be cut as well because it’s a press fit on the axle. The retaining ring is really just a safety device to ensure the bearing doesn’t back off while driving. Thanks for the advice though bud, and thanks for watching.
On a 8 inch it’s in the housing, on a 9 inch it depends on wether you have the 28 or 31 spline axles. On 28 spline it’s in the housing like an 8 inch. On the 31 it goes on the axle itself. I have another video on my channel covering this. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 This video was AWESOME! I watched others on this topic, all were great, but so glad you showed the axle seals installed in the housing instead of on the axle. Mine is 9" and must be 28 spline as the seal is pressed on separate from the axle. Thanks!
@@johnstrathman9771 thanks bud, much appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video and was helpful to you. Yeah the 31 spline is the only one with the seal installed on the axle itself, at least as far as I’ve ever seen. You’re welcome, Thanks for watching.
Learned a trick yesterday. If you cant get it out, put the drum on backwards with the lug nuts half on.. then use the drum as a slide hammer. Worked in 3 jerks for me, and no damage to threads.
Very cool, yeah I never thought of that, but that’s a cool trick. Thanks for sharing that, and thanks for watching.
Nice video...I'm rebuilding a 72 Gran Torino Sport axle right now and this was a big help.
Thank you, much appreciated!
Very nice, cool car, only 1 year, very rare.
Glad you liked and enjoyed my video, and glad it was helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Great video bro. I agree with those old seals getting fused to the axle tube. Once they start to rust, it’s almost like they’re welded in place and it takes a act of God to remove them. One thing I always do is the run some grease on the inside of the seal where the ring spring is. This helps break in the seal and prevents the spring from popping out when you install the axle. Cheers 👍🏻
Thanks bud I appreciate it, yeah i know right, it’s crazy how hard those little seals get stuck. That’s good advice, I always rub some around where the axle rides but not in where the spring is, the more oil applied the better, so I’ll start putting some there as well. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
Great video. Very helpful, thanx for your efforts.
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful to you, glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching.
Great content!
Thanks bud, thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing a great video
No problem, I’m glad it was helpful and you liked it. Thanks for watching.
whats the part numbers on those axel bearings and retainer ?
That was pretty good. I usually pack the grease seal with grease on the back side so the spring doesn't pop out and the grease never hurt anything. Lol
Thanks, much appreciated. Yeah that’s a good idea, I’ve never had a spring pop out of the seal so that’s probably why I’ve never thought of it but never hurts. No such thing as too much grease when it comes to rearend a and gears lol.
Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 I see it ever so often. I tear down gear boxes that leak from other companies and it seems the spring comes out on them and those are the ones leaking. Old guy I was working with said it's a grease seal so pack it and that won't happen so I definitely do it.
@@richardnott9587 I hear ya man, he’s not wrong lol, can’t beat that old school experience and wisdom. I’ll have to keep that in mind from now on, I’ll have to start doing that just for safe measure, especially with the quality of part we’re getting now days. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent video👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you, much appreciated! I’m glad you liked it.
Thanks for watching.
4:45 Water gets trapped in there. Very common problem for mechanics.
Yeah, especially when the seals are old and haven’t been replaced in almost 50 years lol. Thanks for watching.
To get those seals out put a chisel across the width of the seal,and hit it with a hammer.This distorts the seal,and loosens it in the bore.After that they should be loose enough to remove with your fingers.
That’s a good idea, I hadn’t even thought about that, thanks for the great tip bud. Thanks for watching also.
Good video.
Thank you, much appreciated, glad you liked it.
Thanks for watching.
Great job. I got a Ford 9in 28sp I need a axle seal oreilly got 2 with the same part number any suggestion, which one to buy one is cheaper than the other?
Thank you, much appreciated, glad you liked the video. Well if it’s the same seal then it shouldn’t really matter, I’ve used national seals which is usually my go to seal because they’re more known but I have used the Oriellys masterpro seals also and never had a problem with them personally, either will be fine, so I’d say it’s more up to your personal preference really.
Hope this helps, good luck on your repair.
Thanks for watching.
These sealed bearings are alot nicer to work with compared to tapered bearings found on some 9 inch setups.
Yeah, idk, the only one with tapered bearings I ever messed with was my truck and I haven’t had a problem with them. As long as everything is in good shape it shouldn’t be a problem. The one thing I definitely like better about the tapered bearing ones is that they constantly get greased from the gear oil in the rearend. I like the regular inline roller bearing versions too though, they last along time being sealed. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
The tapered rollers are actually stronger all around than the sealed ball bearing. Better for heavy vehicles or offroad rigs.
@lol123321123321 you are absolutely correct, they are in deed. They both have their purposes and uses but the tapered bearings are definitely better for heavy vehicles and towing and off roaring.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching.
what seals did you buy? I have a 65 f100 and I am rebuilding the rear end and I cant find those seals.
Nice truck! I assume it has the ford 9 inch with 28 splines which use seal part#51098, I got them from Oriellys auto parts. Sometimes their system isn’t the greatest on finding stuff for the old vehicle’s. A lot of the time I’ve noticed they’ll have it, they just don’t know what it’s called or it’s named something else in the system. Also I have another video on my channel I just recently posted called ford 8/9 inch gear swap/converting from 28 to 31 spline axles. I show the difference between the 28 and 31 bearings and seals because they are different, I also give the part#’s for them. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 thank you so much!!! That’s a life saver!
@@knexbomb300 no problem bud, glad I could help. Good luck on your build.
Cool beans daddy O had mine pressed on/off at the machine shop 100$ nothing cheap these days
Damn, more than I thought it would be. Yeah you’re right about that, nothing cheap now days. That’s why I try to do as much as I can myself. It’s crazy out there. Thanks for watching.
$100??? You were robbed. 😕
@beeepizzle depends and obviously u think so and that's okay. I don't have a press and how often I do this doesn't warrant me to buy a press .
How much axial play against the inside and outside
Theoretically you want no axel play, but I’ve seen a lot of them with alittle in and out, but very little. I can’t tell you an exact specification on it because idk. I’d say no more than a 1/16. I’ll have to see if I can find an actual spec on that and get back to you.
One thing I forgot to mention is I’d check your axle retainer plates the bolt to the rear axle housing that holds the axles in. See if they are bent, I’ve seen them be bent before and that will cause some in and out play. Make sure they are flat and even.
I use a 20 ft log chain n wipe it like a snake They pop right out
Yeah that’ll do it, good advice. Thanks for commenting and watching.
0:27 you can't loosen the bolts, they are T shaped
Loosen the nuts, then the bolts will come out the back.
Take a chisel and cut the retainer and the bearing will almost fall off.
Well that’s basically what I did with the cut off wheel but the bearing inner race has to be cut as well because it’s a press fit on the axle. The retaining ring is really just a safety device to ensure the bearing doesn’t back off while driving. Thanks for the advice though bud, and thanks for watching.
Where is the seal?
On a 8 inch it’s in the housing, on a 9 inch it depends on wether you have the 28 or 31 spline axles. On 28 spline it’s in the housing like an 8 inch. On the 31 it goes on the axle itself. I have another video on my channel covering this. Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching.
czcams.com/video/LyrjpwRMVN8/video.htmlsi=Vjk6nEwv7rVzNdqz
Here’s the link to that video if you’re interested in watching it.
@@FastFords289 This video was AWESOME! I watched others on this topic, all were great, but so glad you showed the axle seals installed in the housing instead of on the axle. Mine is 9" and must be 28 spline as the seal is pressed on separate from the axle. Thanks!
@@johnstrathman9771 thanks bud, much appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video and was helpful to you. Yeah the 31 spline is the only one with the seal installed on the axle itself, at least as far as I’ve ever seen.
You’re welcome, Thanks for watching.