Unhappy Honda MISFIRE P0300 (Part 2 - Repairs - Accord V6)
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Customer approved the recommended Honda Valve Clearance Adjustment Procedure to take care of the rough running at idle setting the P0300 code.
Place your bets now: what will we find under the valve covers?
Can I repair this Honda NO PARTS REQUIRED?
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Enjoy!
Ivan
Thanks for giving my moms car another lease on life. Was pretty funny to see this pop-up yesterday on my feed, and then realize that's my moms car haha. She mentioned she dropped it off to get fixed. Didn't know it ended up here, on a channel I've been watching forever lol. Small world.
That's awesome!! Real people and real cars!!
That's awesome! Accord V6 should have many more miles left in it :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You're part of the family now Ivan. Ivan the adopted brother/son Auto diagnostician -LOL
Great job Ivan- who would have guessed a small adjustment of the valve lash was the issue ?
@@MrTonyPiscatelle Well to be fair, Ivan mentioned that right away, but (as always) he wanted to be thorough in his diagnostic first instead of guessing that was the problem.
That engine was very clean looking for over 200K, props to the owner for taking good care of it!
The notebook is a underated tool for sure.
Those 2006 Honda Accord are great cars. I had the 2.4 four popper bought from new and got 360,000 hard miles out of it. I never had a single issue with the transmission either.
Opposite side of the spectrum, my 05 Acura TL 3.2 started to slowly lose mileage and power while giving a very random PO300. Ign and fuel checked out ok. Freeze frame told me very little, slightly rich. Mechanical timing was spot on. While this engine was and is butter smooth and no noises detected, at 202k, it had NEVER had a valve adjustment! Almost every valve was too loose. After the adjustment, fuel trims were 0, and power was back. City mileage gained 4, highway gained 12, which was back to 32-34 mpg @70 mph in 6th gear. So yeah these older Hondas run forever, but valve adjustment is critical!
9:50 That knock sound might be the timing belt tensioner. My 2003 accord v6 had a similar knock. I went ahead and did the timing belt service, and it went away.
strangely enough it's been there since before the initial timing job, after that first timing job at 100k. And still there after the 2nd timing job at 200k.
@@Innov8vMike wow, mine was on the second timing belt when it started knocking and I thought the motor was done for. I was told that the aftermarket timing belt tensioners could cause the noise so I replaced all the timing belt components with honda oem parts and it has been fine ever since.
Honda does not make the belts they are Gates@@christopherlowell7889
@christopherlowell7889 Just to clarify - at 200K timing job all OEM parts were installed on this car including the belt tentioner. I think that microphone makes the knocking sound kind of louder than it is in real life
@mwaserma it probably does make it sound worse. I know mine would have sounded horrible if I had recorded it. I'm at 255k now and it doesn't make any noise at all. Now that 2017 accord that you might see on my profile was horrible. It ended up blowing up at 49,000 miles, engine and transmission. The dealer took it back and now I have 2019 sport.
Those Honda 6 motors are a thing of beauty. Im surprised they still have tappets, but their engineers are damned good. My uncle John used to always say: "if they're loud, you know they won't burn." lolol RIP, UNC.
Excellent diagnosis and repair Ivan. “No parts required “ is the best outcome. Congratulations!
Probably some new valve cover gaskets were used? Haven't made it to the end of the video though.
That's great! I never hear of shops adjusting valves these days. Very cool!! Almost like old school!! lol
very few engines use adjustable tappets anymore, because more precision is required. I think even newer Hondas dumped the "adjustables"
It's required on all Honda V6 engines up until the new V6 that was recently introduced that now has dual overhead cams, no VTEC and hydraulic tappets.
Motorcycles and lawnmowers.
@@map7463 Whoa- Honda got rid of VTEC?? That was their bread and butter!
I assume though the newer V6's still use a timing BELT for some reason that has to be changed approx every 100k miles...? Too bad they refuse to update that to a chain and save their customers close to $2k every several years....
The thermal expansion will take a zero clearance valve and make it an open valve at operating temperature.
Exhaust valves that are tight are almost always a sign of lack of maintenance, either from a lack of knowledege on the owner's behalf, or simple negligence. Intake valves that are tight are typically from a bad valve adjustment. Loose exhaust valves usually indicate a very rich running condition and signs of valve leakage from excess carbon buildup on the valve seats.
At 205K miles, I would be willing to bet this engine has not seen a valve adjustment since the warranty expired. Your diagnosis was obviously spot on, and while a wrench that works exclusively on Hondas may have gotten there quicker, I doubt he/she would have had definitive proof of the likelihood of repair.
I used to be a driveability and electronics specialist for Honda in my younger years back in the mid 90's, and saw lots of these come through my bay.
Hondas will absolutely run forever if you keep the valves adjusted and the oil fresh. I've seen one in the shop with over 600K on the odometer still running like a champ!
I can confirm that car hasn't seen a valve adjustment likely ever. It was bought from a college student, at just over 100k, who I doubt did ALL the maintenance. My mom's husband did the timing the first time, and again at 200k. Always does her oil changes. Transmission got rebuilt recently. But any other maintenance I doubt it's ever had done as you mentioned.
the older hondas were pretty much bulletproof other than the auto transmissions. 03-07 specifically.
I wonder why they didn't install hydraulic lifters on these?
@@franks5553It's a Honda. I think they are still using solid lifters to this day lol. Even if they have switched now on newer ones, that's about 60 years too late. 😅
@@billbarney4937Yeah I have an 05 Acura automatic. I just do a drain and fill now at every other 5,000 mile oil change. So far no issues, 168k, but the trans are the weak points. The J32/J35 engines are lovely, though.
Good morning Ivan and fellow viewers! 🇺🇸
Good Morning!
Oh crap... is it morning already?
Mine began at 4am.
Ivan! Great work....nothing beats Brains and Ability!!!! The valve adjustment really matters, it seems.....Too bad most never pay attention....
Nothing runs as smooth as a Honda with a tight timing belt and a fresh valve adjustment. Way to go, Ivan! This thing will run another 10 years.
Take that back buddy. 1998 - 2001 Camry 2.2l gives the exact same feeling as the 03-07 accord v6. The 2.4l accord has nothing smooth like the v6; it just runs like a chevy but a long lasting one
Thanks for sowing the procedure. Glad I didn't have to do it. It reminds me of adjusting the valves on a 4 cylinder air cooled VW engine. There were only 2 per cylinder and that was fine.
Holy Hell, the snow. Coddled here in SOCAL 62F sunny, clear, rain on the way though, YAY!
It's like our weather here in southern Vermont. Right now, below normal, especially for late-February, but looks like we will get March-like temps in just some days now!
The owner had the patience, knowledge, and determination to find the best repair shop. I would first suspect the complicated emissions circuitry. Old fashioned mechanical adjustment saves the day. Excellent work. PS.. hey customer: get ready for more problems, coming more frequently. Increase you vigilance, dont abuse the car, and DO NOT LET IT SIT STILL..drive it everyday
I recommend a set of the feeler gauges that have the curved ends, it can make getting in there a bit easier. I even have an extra set that I've further modified just for Honda valve lash adjustments. Sometimes that adjustment screw gets stuck to the bolt, some PB blaster or Kroil or a drop or 2 of Marvel Mystery oil can help break them apart.
I bought a set of those to check the valve adjustment on my Honda Rancher ATV.
I bend straight ones and put a thick layer of electrical tape wrapped on the other ends to hold them. I just get the cheap harbor freight ones.
Most people don’t know but on these older Honda’s a valve adjustment is recommended maintenance item. Usually around the 100k mark. If it was never performed before it was well overdue!
Went to local mechanic back in the 60s about an old vw beetle and the width of the feeler guage. Use the kitchen knife was his casual remark. Boy was he on the button.
Surprised Honda doesn't use hydraulic lifters. It's rare to see engines that require valve adjustment.
only toyota that i can think of with hyd. lifters is the5.7 v8 fyi
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt really...what about 1gr fe 2 gr fe and 3 gr fe?? I had a 4 litre v6 and am pretty sure lifters are hydraulic.
@@mikefoehr235 retired 10 years ago my bad. still like shins best
No one could have guessed this one and fixed it, I don't believe, which is why we use troubleshooting techniques to ferret out that stuff. Ivan makes one heck of a ferret! Good Show, Sir!! 👏👏👏👏
Good call Ivan 👍🏼
Thanks Ivan for another superb video. This one is a great reminder that under all the computers, sensors and electronics, cars are still the same basic machines our grandparents drove and require the same skills and knowledge to keep them in good running order.
Nice work as usual Ivan! Hopefully the exhaust valve seat isn't starting to give up. They'll know in a few thousand more miles if it comes back.
I had an 07 4door v6 6mt. Brings back memories. Car isnt fast but sure was fun to drive. Sold it at 450000km because it needed a clutch and had a little rust on rear wheel arch lips.
Back in the day when I was working at a service garage. In the 80's. Any car with adjustable valves got a valve adjustment at every tune-up.
Probably wasn't a 4+ hour book time procedure though 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics The whole tune-up took about that long.
I had a 2006 Accord EX coupe V6 with 6-speed manual transmission. That machine was a beast. The 100k service included valve adjustments as a standard part of the service. That car was the most fun of any car I ever owned. Sold the car at 180k miles when I retired in 2020 and stopped driving as much, mostly to save the insurance premiums. I miss tooling thru the country in that machine.
I had an 07 Accord V6 sedan with the 6 speed manual, and yes that thing was a blast to drive. Terrible gas mileage though!
For some reason 06 and 07 were the only 2 years Honda ever offered the V6/ 6 speed manual setup in a sedan; all other years were coupe only.
Kinda makes sense the exhaust valves wear into the seats alot sooner than the intake valves ! Good they didnt burn out !
Honda is no longer unhappy 🙂 Good job, Ivan! No parts required but some man-hours, with corresponding knowledge and experience.
A tight valve adjustment may not cause a leak but it will change how long the valve is open. I'd say it's getting into overlap territory, it is opening sooner and staying open longer than it should.
I used to love adjusting the valves on my 1982 Suzuki GS 1100E (well, except the valve cover had about 18 bolts) Same screw-type adjusters. Though they were never far out of adjustment, the valve train was smooth and buttery thereafter. Redline, shift, redline, shift, redline, shift...I miss that bike...
Only bike i ever red-lined was my MB5… and my 78 puch moped maybe 🤣
@@Beethechange1 Haha! Well, the first three gears at redline were fast, but after than, you were starting to get into serious speed territory - at least by the standards of the day - and had to ease off a bit. Unless you were riding on the highway. Top speed was a bit over 140 at redline, which I never did. Came close...
@@privateer0561 😱🫣🤣
My 02 Camry has 273k miles and runs flawlessly!
Those Honda V6's are something special. Thanks Ivan!
Good morning 🌄!
Thanks for the time and effort, always. I appreciate your comments along the way, too.
Cheers!
Valve was zero lash when and probably expanded when hot and started keeping valve open after reaching operating temp. Good diag Ivan.
When adjusting valves I use three feeler guage leaves and set the clearance to the max allowed. So if targeting .009, I use .008 (loose), .009 (snug), .010 (won't enter easily). I get the clearances very even cyl to cyl that way. Got that method from an old Cummins V8 diesel manual.
Nice find. It doesn't seem to ve an easy thing to prove and requires a commitment from the customer with known risk of not being the fix. I wished there was a way to take some of the guess work out. I haven't had time to, but want to see how a vacuum transducer would behave connected to the Pico.
mini leak when warmed up by heat expansion ? ? The old Honda CB-750 and mosi small singles cylinder engine are still adjusrable the same way 😆
I was wondering how many trans it had had. A woman I dated had an Accord and it was on its 3rd by 150K. The original unit left us stranded in Myrtle Beach @ 70K. Replaced original engine @ 130K. It was burning 3 quarts in between changes and had burned an exhaust valve. I removed the radio and disconnected the power to the CD changer. It had a 6 disc in dash unit that made the same annoying grinding this one was. Common problem on Hondas as I have came across it plenty. Radio played great though and with an AUX in you didn't need CD player. Great video as always, thanks!
It takes a special shop to rebuild those transmissions correctly.
@@Bryan-Hensley at the time you couldn't even buy a reman unit from the dealership. I was told they were allocated for warranty claims. Honda ended up replacing the first one. It took them 6 months. It first started to shift late and slam into 2nd @ 28K when warranty was still active. Service manager tried to say it was lack of maintenance but it was long before the factory service interval for the trans fluid. They claimed they flushed the valve body. 2nd trans started slipping at 110K and had lost 4th gear altogether, so I swapped in a used unit when I replaced the engine @ 130K. That car was very problematic. Along with the major items I had to replace HVAC control panel, repair broken solder joints inside instrument cluster, replace VTEC solenoid, unclog EGR passages. Replaced every window regulator, front wheel bearings. That's just what I remember off the top of my head. After I replaced engine and 2nd trans, we drove it a few more months and traded it in on a new Impala. Except for shift solenoids for trans and 2 alternators, we haven't been let down. It just rolled over 290K on the way back from New York last weekend.
@@topher8634 that's a shame, Honda was an awesome vehicle in the 90s. I think the late 1990s and early 2000s were the best reliable vehicles made.
My Acura TL 2004 automatic has 293k miles and still on the original transmission and shifts smooth.. I do take care of it by servicing the fluid and changing the filter..
p0301,p0302,p0304, i just worked on a 2006 Odysee with the same codes, all new spark plugs,all new coils. I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge and to my surprise, i found the pressure at 34 psi instead of 57, it started at 60 psi when cold just to drop steadily when the engine warmed up. specs are 57 to 64 psi. Customer stated that valves where adjusted and new valve cover gaskets installed. A new fuel pump took care of the problem.
Must have been setting LEAN codes too? Fuel trims very POSITIVE under load?
Valves get tight because the valve itself and the valve seat gets pounded flatter. This reduces the clearance. Most of the street/ dirt bikes require a check in the 10k to 15k range, some even less. When ever I do an adjustment, and especially on the shim under bucket design I always adjust the the maximum clearance. This allows for a longer time until symptoms of a tight valve come back. In addition, no one knows if there is carbon buildup on the valves, so with a readjustment it is always best to provide the maximum clearance to allow for reseating . With my DRZ400S , the valve adjustment requires camshaft removal and reshimming under the buckets, because of the overhead cam design.
Good job! Thanks for taking the time to show us
Nailed it again, Ivan! You are an inspiration and a mentor for countless numbers of mechanics and DIYers wrestling with increasingly complex automobile technology.
Several years ago, I bought a 2007 Pilot with over 200,000 miles, blown head gasket, non runner. When I got the heads back from the machinist, I set the valve lash on the bench, and I thought is was good. The engine ran great, but was throwing a rich code. It took a lot of research but it turns out the rich code was due to valve adjustments being too tight. This somehow caused a high vacuum at idle, which I confirmed with a vacuum gage, and the voltage was slightly high at the MAP sensor (over one volt)-, (should be under one volt). When I re-adjusted the valves, they weren't really tight, so I set them a little on the loose side, no more rich code, vacuum reading came down, and the voltage at the MAP sensor was less than one volt. The truck now has 230,000 miles on it and it runs fine, with a slight valve tap.
Actually vacuum would be too LOW (poor vacuum) at idle, causing an elevated MAP voltage and thus overfueling 😉
I know, go figure. Some guy on a video had the same problem, and he claimed that he reached out to Eric O. and got the information. Supposedly the J35 is prone to this. I'm not that much of a diagnostician, but it corrected my problem. It could have something to do with the fact that my heads were milled down? And the valve seats were also ground?@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
You are correct (I didn't doubt that), got my info backwards.@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Please tell me the CD player was fixed too 😂
I was waiting for that bonus footage
With a giant hammer? xD
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 😆😅
It seems to be a rarity these days to have to adjust valves back in my day it felt like you were doing them about every 10,000 mls .In shops these days I would take a guess & say most young mechanics have never seen it done or done it themselves.(probably tell customers it needs another engine.) Cheers Ivan.
Another one saved! Nice work Ivan
Being that after you adjusted the valve lash that the tapping came back and there wasn't any before hand tells me that someone has gone in there to close the lash gap and probably went to far in not allowing the space required for expansion.
One more gage on your leak down kit and you can get real data. There are specifications for leak down. It would be good to know what effect the valve clearance has with actual data.
Thanks for the video... great repair. Surprised that the Honda V6 does not have hydraulic lash adjuster.
This guy is so thorough. Good to have as airliner mechanic.
Or a surgeon !
You the man!!.. love your videos and diagnostic skills!
Smashed it again Ivan. Good job
Excellent approach, diagnosis, and repair Ivan! Congrats!
EricO at SMA showcased a new boresscpe with an articulating head - turns the camera 180° making a more thorough valve and seat inspection possible.
New tool?
I wish you would have done a compression test again and seen if that 10psi discrepancy went away or not.
I guarantee that it did 😊
Talk all you want about the types of valve trains but for ease of maintenance nothing beats screw adjusters and timing belts on the older Hondas. J35s are one great engine and they are still being made.
@@Allan-es2hz shim on solid bucket is maintenance free for 500k miles 🙃
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics in a perfect world,,,,and we all know how that goes.
I was brought up with the saying " Honda makes good cars, but they make GREAT engines ".
Impressive diagnosis and in impressive car for those miles. Thanks Ivan.
Ivan being an expert, probably knew what it was, just used it for a teaching moment.😇
How did the exhaust valves tighten up with high mileage? I would have expected wear and tear to result in a loose adjustment.
The valve and seat wear resulting valve moving up further into head, closing the clearance.
Thanks, that makes sense.
You have to remember the rocker arms are what move the valve. The lifter pushes up on the rocker which in turn pushes down on the valve to open it. When there's too much clearance between the lifter and the rocker, the valve won't open as much, hence making it "tighter". That's why hydraulic lifters solve this "problem", they "automatically" fill that gap as things wear.
Like Ivan mentioned in part 1. The more time you invest in research and diagnosis, the faster and straightforward the repair becomes 👍
Well done. Tell custom to service the trans fluid.
You need to hold the center screw while tightening. Honda valves are very touchy.
With the feeler gauge still in the center really cant move.
It actually can. I have done many of these and they will be out of spec if you don’t hold the screw.
@@terryburke2587 As long as the feeler gauge has a light drag after tightening the lock nut, it's good to go :)
Man you probably did this a thousand times before; i was overthinking every step of it and even speaking out loud to myself. I think i spent 3hours on this. I still have to reinstall the front valve cover tomorrow and try mine. I have misfires but worst than this vehicle. Not just at idle but at all times and car cant even get past 30mph. Drag shift to 2nd gear then stalls out
Another great NPR. I’m guessing the valve cover and intake seals were still good to reuse. If they’re still flexible and happy, why waste the money and time. I’ve done many of these fixes on the neighbors mowers and atv’s . Nice job Ivan.👍👍🇺🇸
I salvaged a 1995 Honda Accord EX V6 Sedan for a guy one of my favorite clients referred to me recently after replacing the front and rear brakes and had no idea how difficult it was going to be to find the front bearing and hub assemblies and captive rotors that fit them because one out of every four rotors I bought didn't fit due to variations in casting and machining despite being the same brand and part number and the hub and bearing assemblies were also different in such a way that only one rotor out of the half dozen I tried would fit one hub and all of them fit the other hubs and the difference was in the overall diameter of the threaded hub mounting flanges that the rotor has to clear in order to bolt to the inboard side of the hub flange. The hubs were all the same part number but the housing the bearing is pressed into varies from one to the other. After I finally figured that out, the caliper brackets didn't fit because they were touching the outside face of the rotors when tightened down since there's maybe one thousandth of an inch of clearance on either side of the rotor so I had to improvise or spend another week buying and returning bracketed calipers. The rear brakes were a breeze. I was glad that it was a referral from a really good client who was able to reassure the owner of the Honda that it wasn't my fault it took over a month to get this job wrapped up especially having to drive to the guy's house in the middle of nowhere where he's got a brand new heated garage with a 2 and 4 post lift in each stall. Now I'm taking care of his other part time vehicles including a mint condition 98 Experdition with 40k miles and a reliable 2V 5.4 non VVT. I try to keep my side jobs at a minimum since I have a full time job that pays more than enough but the few clients I have make it worth every second and they all have heated garages and pay in increments of $100 bills and never balk at the estimate or final bill and always tip well. One of them even dropped off a Christmas card on their way thru town and wouldn't you know it there were Benny's inside.
@@AAB371 don't be jealous...
I'm no stranger to trbl shooting, but my work was large pwr plts. And, I'm also 76, that's my old school defense. So, in part 1, I thought 'unlikely to be a clearance prob'. But, in part 2, I realize it's multi-valve and then it hits me (doh!). It all mades sense. What really excites me is you used scope based tools to diagnose. Nicely done Ivan.
Great work
Great content as always. One handy tip is to use two feeler gauges, that way you don't need to fiddle with the gauge as much. Plus having bent feeler gauges helps a lot.
Love happy endings...🤠
Good job Ivan!
Too tight valves are definitely a problem, but be careful you don't adjust them too loose either, or the customer will complain of a noisey engine. The tighter end of spec or even a thou tighter I have found, is best. It took 200,000 miles for engine to get the valves tight enough to be a problem, so .001 below spec won't be a problem for another 200,000 miles.
Totally agree being a current owner of 04 Accord 4banger
During the adjustment process you have to use the feeler gauges and estimate the clearance drag to get on the fine line of noisey engine and too tight causing increased manifold pressure and loss of combustion pressure.
Nice job. Motoyam.
WOW…adjusting valve clearance !!…you nailed it Ivan ..impressive 👍
I was actually really impressed with how smoothly the engine ran after the valve lash adjustment! 😊
Great diagnosis and fix, now if people didn't need a "no" cel to pass inspection would they bother doing this repair?
Yes you should do the repair if you want the engine the run to right, plus you'll get better gas mileage. That motor can go another 200K if they just maintain it right.
My father in law has a 2006 Odyssey with the big 3.5. It drives super smooth, handles crisply (for a van) and man will it move. Definite contrast to my old Astro 😂
I'd say the insides of that engine are super clean for 205,000 miles ! I am amazed that the slight out of spec valve clearance caused all of this. A couple of them were .008 off which I would agree is a lot so it appears that the computer/sensors depend much on the valve lash. BEST PART was no collateral damage due to parts canon efforts !
Great diagnosis and repair as always. Thank you for the foreshadowing from the first part. I thought there would be a significant pressure bypass.
Back in my day....................... Yeah, I'm that old. Running the valves used to be part of a full tune up on any vehicle with adjustables.
Glad about the outcome! On an unrelated note, I wonder if the Pentastar 3.6 V6 has any issue like this. I've been in a 2014 Dodge Journey with someone back in the late-2010s and one day, check engine light on, rough idle and pungent exhaust at idle. It got fixed, but not 100 percent sure what.
Top notch diagnosis and repair Ivan, and no parts to replace!
08 Honda Odyssey Touring here. 271K miles on the original transmission and still shifts perfectly. As long as you don't have a gen 2 Odyssey If one changes the fluid regularly there's usually no problem.
I was thinking the same thing but almost no one changes transmission fluid...
Had a chevet engine way back we had a valve job performed on. The grinder never dressed the valve stem tips. These engines did not have a lot of lash in the hydraulic lifters. Ran great cold but as it warmed up and the valves grew in length, it would start dropping cylinders until it stopped. Was a head scratchier to begin with.
I think the rich condition on bank 1 was due to the valve lash issue, the exhaust valve was not closed all to the end
The cylinder when was coming to compression stroke was dumping unburned air fuel mixture in the exhaust on bank 1
I bought a new 1975 Honda Civic CVCC. I adjusted the valves per the manual which stated adjust half at 0 BTDC and then turn the engine one time to adjust the rest. That was incorrect. Many of the valves were too loose. I had to turn the engine to TDC on each cylinder to get the adjustment correct.
It usually comes with a lumpy/rough idle. Drivers got used to it, so if there is no MIL, seldom anyone is going to pay the 5 HR labor for the job. Had 1 couple years ago, failed CA smog with same codes. Got it repaired through CA CAP program. After the VA, car idles butter smooth. Great procedure you went through to confirm problem/verify repair.
Good video Ivan, you lost me with this one. Why would valves tighten rather than loosen? After reading about this unique issue Honda has, I now understand.
Another great fix Ivan! NPR KING!
As things wear with age I would expect clearances to get looser.
What causes them to get tight over the age of the engine?
Valve seat wears down making valve go higher reducing clearance between valve stem and adjusting screw.
Pretty amazing diagnosis! You just wouldn't normally expect valve adjustment to cause a wet plug. I would expect a burned valve. Goes to show that I don't need to be working on other people's cars! When I was in my 20's, I had a Civic, and it seemed I was adjusting valves all the time. Much easier than a V6, though.
Good fix Ivan! A happy Honda owner.
Nice detailed repair following a plug hole oscopy confirming NPR.
here rhis morning. 07:15 in Québes we have -21 C and very little snow. . for us. .
Hi Ivan, nice work! it looks like the owner took care of the engine, nice and clean.
My friend and my wife both owned late model V6 accords. Both experienced engine failure on trips and had to be towed to a dealership wherein both had a failing spark plug. Both were charged $200 for the diagnoses and installation of the spark plug. Both traded their cars for different brands.
Most likely VCM caused that.
Thanks but no Hondas for me@@joesmith7377
i always do a ckp erase and relearn after misfire codes
9:50 TBH, sounds like that Guns N' Roses song: Knocking 'on heavens door.
I had a b20 do the same thing valves got tight and burnt a valve. Common thing if you don’t lash valves every 50000 miles.
Love those NPR! Good work my friend.