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I'm thinking about improving V1 of the sword, which is obviously going to cut better because of the thinner profile, and making another video comparing that with a real katana. I was also swinging the final sword like a bat, because it lacked cutting abilities but it had a lot of power. Anyways Let me know if you’d like to see an improed version of V1, in which I fix all the mistakes I made, including a better slicing technique! Edit: I’ll do it Ps: the reason I kept the katana that thick, is because it would otherwise bend just with gravity. So the improved version of it is going to be shorter, kinda like a real sword.
As a bladesmith, this pisses me off. As a bro, this is freaking awesome. Mike, if you see this, i can probably answer most of your questions about knife/sword/weapon making.
The concept is pretty cool and Many of the most egregious flaws can be daily easily fixed with help from someone who knows what to do. It would definitely be interesting to see another attempt with a little more knowledge behind it.
It’s a pretty good impact weapon, it just won’t cut. It’s effective, it’s nearly invisible and it’s durable. I was impressed as hell that he started freehand grinding those first sword bevels halfway through. Those steep bevels on the second one saved it from being destroyed.
Alright so hear me out: There is another Japanese Martial Arts style that would make better use of the material, both in regards to its transparency and ability to bend. I believe it’s called Owari Kan-Ryu, but I just call it the Wobbly Spear technique. In essence, you grab a spear near the bottom and with your lower hand push it back and forth (sliding it through your higher hands grip) so as to cause the tip of the spear to wobble in a circular pattern. It helps to get past guard stances, and would likely benefit greatly from having an invisible spear used.
@@enigma9971 I don’t know if that would work as well. The blade would diffract light, which might not be a huge issue if the whole spear is invisible but would be if just the spear head was as you’d see the wood looking wonky through the spear head which would tip you off to its presence faster.
It's mostly the taper off the edge and somewhat the thickness of the whole "blade" Just as in regular cutting. It's behind the edge thickness. A thin but completely dull knife will still cut through most things while a thick but razor sharp knife will have a very hard time going through an object
Mechanical engineer here. By making a 90 degree angle between the blade and the tang in the handle you created a stress concentration there. Abrupt changes in geometry like this create localized stresses far greater than the average stress, hence why your blade snapped there. Fun video!
Also, If I'm remembering correctly the flexibility of the material allows for better energy dissipation and lower impulse as the flexibility delays the force by storing energy in it's waves thus increasing the time it takes for all the force to act on the blade. So sandwiching it between two pieces increased the materials inflexibility at that point, and the flexibility along the axis of the beveled edge isn't good either due to it's thickness, so most of the force along that axis would have been transferred to the tang in a short amount of time, putting it under much greater stress.
@@kyjohns8271 If by the tang you mean just the base of the blade (without cutting it), then yes! That's basically what he did in the end by just wrapping the base of the blade with a towel. If you mean keep the 90 degree angle and just wrap the smaller part, then no, the abrupt change in geometry is what induces the higher stresses. If he still wanted to cut the base of the blade to make a handle, he could have reduced the stress concentration factor by rounding the corner where the tang meets the base of the blade with a "fillet." The larger the radius of the fillet, the lower the stress concentration factor. In other words the more rounded the corner, the lower the peak stress caused by the change in geometry. The stress would still be the highest at that point, but it would be much less extreme than the stresses caused by the 90 degree angle he made.
What I love about this is that this is just some dude figuring it out as he goes along. He's not some professional but he had a cool idea and he wanted to create it so he did.
A true bladesmith does not make mistakes. Just smaller knives. I’d like to see a test with v1 too. I know it didn’t match the title of the video, but your blade geometry was significantly more conducive to cutting through stuff.
The right angle you cut into the blade where the handle and blade meet is what caused the break, not the added thickness of the handle. The same thing happens with steel weapons - they call it a stress riser. A rounded transition from handle to blade would help avoid it.
@@MikeShake to get a nice round transition easily and quickly, drill holes in the places where the cuts are supposed to meet, and then cut the material.
Hardness is not the same as tenacity, as a mechanical property. Policarbonate is not a hard material, so it is basically unable to actually retain the sharpness of the edge. That's why most of the test showed breaks by blunt weapon impacts, and not much of a cut. Still, it is a very cool weapon and admire your attitude of fucking around and finding out. Great video as always!
Bro I love this video, your face when the sword breaks off from the handle and your just processing the emotions after all that hard work had my dying! So relatable lmao Hope you do continue to do well, much love from the USA!
The biggest reason your handle snapped off is the geometry of your sword. Having those sharp interior corners creates a stress concentrator. It's like if you have a 10 lane highway suddenly shrink into a 1 lane country road with no transition. All the cars (stress lines) have to bunch up at that point, cramming into that tiny area with no easing into it. It works when traffic is low (like swinging the swrod through the air), but the moment there's any serious traffic (like hitting the pineapple) there are too many cars trying to go into that 1 lane. For the cars, they just can't move anywhere, for your sword, it breaks. You will always run into this issue with making the grip smaller than the blade, but adding internal radii or some way to gradually reduce the size, will help to prevent this failure in the future. That will always be your point of failure on a sword made out of a single material. Katanas, even though they are made from one piece of steel, have different hardnesses at different parts of the blade and grip effectively making them multi-material sword. I bet you that if you were to take your V1 sword, even though it is a sharper blade, you will have the handle snap off even if you don't make the handle thicker. It's just a nature of your sword geometry and really only something you can learn from spending too much time reading books, or breaking things like your doing, which is how the books were written in the first place. I also don't want to invalidate your own discovery of adding material to the handle making it stiffer and contributing to the blade breaking. That is definitely a part of it and an awesome insight to have found. I just want to highlight that your 2D geometry has as much a roll in the strength of the blade as the 3D geometry does.
@@samp1501 I'm of the reasoning that while the polycarbonate is able to flex along the flat edge, by hitting the material from it's most rigid side will always transfer more energy into the blade with nowhere to go but its weakest point.
@@amosdotl6892 is a combination of everything, he needs to remove some material to turn the sharp inner corners of the blade handle transition into round corners, for the handle 2 scales of polycarbonate are okay but only gluing them to each other so they encase the handle and then hold it with a polycarbonate pin so if shit hits the fan the polycarbonate pin breaks.
Good comment! I was going to point out the sharp angles where the handle meets the blade as well. There's a reason real, properly made swords are rounded there.
15:02 swordmaker here. When you make a sharp transition like between the tang and blade you create a stress riser. You need to create a round transition.
@@robinlundh3962 That's not what he was talking about. What he is talking about, that in the area where the blade becomes the part of the handle, there is stress on the inside corners. If you ave steep angles in there the item can start cracking in those conrners and the blade snaps off. You need to keep these inside corners as round as technically feasible to avoid those stresspoints.
@@profezzordarke4362 Pollycarbonate does not have the same mecanic disabilities as metal. It would only bend easier when narrowed down and you could do sharper cornering than this and it would not crack. Unless you cemicaly change the capabillity of the material, in this case with superglue. Superglue made microcracks all along the handle and it broke exactly where the material was no longer trippled in thickness. Rest of the movie it worked fine. Even narrowed down on the sander. Superglue is the culprit in this case nothing els. If it were steel. I would agree with the swordmaker.
The "cracks" that you refer to are in the handle itself, and the point of breakage is right before the guard, meaning it wouldn't make physical sense to break there instead of along the handle shaft where these "cracks" are. Furthermore the "cracks" are along the length of the shaft, while the breakage is perfectly perpendicular to it, exactly how a stress riser point breakage acts. Also, I say "cracks" because those are not direct deterioration of the poly through chemical reaction as you say, but simply weird light angles on the dried glue between the 3 total sheets of pol, causing a lot of refraction and reflection and the cool effect. Glue can't erode poly. The full structure would be in all fairness actually stronger, especially since the glue as a bond agent adds even more total strength between the 3 pieces combined.
I wanted to do a joint email with multiple youtubers but I couldn't find your email so here is your part of it. Thank you Mike Shake, for teaching me that there is no talent, only skill. That anything I put my mind to can and should be learned. You are very skilled. Also fun fact, my birthday is a day after yours, isn't that cool. You have made me want to cultivate my brain into doing fantastic things I thought were reserved to those with some kind of inner expertise and talent. I want to learn because of you, I want to do, I want to become everything I dreamed about, that I can be as fluid as billions of years of evolution in this singular life. You inspire me, and also have introduced me to a few skills I enjoy myself. A teacher of the want: to be taught and learn.
Dude! I tooootally appreciate your content, creativity and humor! Please keep them going! I AM a HUGE fantasy weapon glutton! When I get the time and materials, I want to make 2 of these invis short swords. 22”-25” seem ideal! Thank you!!!
another big part of why the blade snapped at the hilt isn't just about the quality of the blade, but rather your edge alignment on the hit. The katana hit the pineapple with it's edge facing upwards, which effectively moved the middle of the blade up and away from it's inertia, turning your horizontal cutting force partially into a vertical snapping force. I reckon the blade would've survived with better edge alignment, and that can be aided with better handle design to make your natural grip closer to keeping the edge straight and practice in cutting smaller targets that won't be solid enough to break the sword.
Acabo de descubrir este canal y es increíble como llevas tus ideas a la realidad, el único detalle es que soy de habla hispana, pero con la pista de audio en español el alcance de tus videos puede aumentar un montón y alcanzar muchas más vistas, y una gran oportunidad de crecimiento para ti, suerte y mucho exito en el canal
so, coming from combat robots where polycarb is used a lot, i can tell you that cyanoacrylate makes polycarb brittle. it was the ca glue reacting with the polycarbonate that made it turn brittle. there is a chemical bonding agent made to glue polycarbonate, but isn't a glue, it effectively melts the 2 pieces together making it almost as strong as if it were 1 whole piece
Now hes fully prepared to become "The One!" No other highlander will stand in the way of his high polished transparent blade of doom!!! THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE, HIGHLANDER 🤘🏽😝🤘🏽
Awesome stuff. Trick as well. You can flame polish the edges to make them almost transparent after cutting. Also use resin instead of super glue to bond acrylic or get acrylic weld. Look at some aquarium videos to see how that works. It melts the two acrylic parts together rather than a glue. 👍
@MikeShake I love this project and I'd like to help you make it better. I think that there are several areas of consideration for the next version and testing methods. I have not read all 6700+ comments, so please forgive me if I repeat any. I hope some of this helps. 1- The thickness of the "katana" and it's cutting edge -A katana is not meant to "cleave" through things. The curved shape of katana is meant to provide the smallest amount of cutting surface on the target. This increases the PSI of the cut. When you see a katana "chopping" through something, don't imagine an axe going through wood. Imagine the blade being dragged through the target and slicing deeper as the blade is pulled across the target's surface. More like a saw would work, slowly getting deeper by cutting along the surface, not going straight through. -A katana is thin so that (among other reasons) it can pass through the target with the least resistance. What you have created functions less like a katana and more like an axe, machete or kukri. However, if you decrease the blade's thickness, it will of course be weaker. -The edge angle is very wide, which is going to be more resilient to damage, but is not going to cut very well. That is why your cuts were messy. Of course, the narrower the edge, the more easily it will be damaged. -The problem you had with the blade being more visible with the shallower cutting angle would be lessened if the blade were thinner (as it would have less distance to travel from tip to flat) 2-Target materials -If you're trying to make an invisible katana, you would want to test it against objects that katanas are normally tested against. I have seen a katana cut a bullet, but if I remember correctly, the blade was badly damaged afterwords. The katana was ideally used to attack soft tissue and slice deeply enough with one cut to open an artery or reach vital organs. The easiest way to do this with a blade is to stab, which is why spears and arrows were more favored in large scale conflict and most blades (that I'm aware of) were meant to deal the finishing wound with a stab. There is a very interesting history about katanas and why they were shaped and used as they were. I highly reccoment learning about them if you want to take your project to the next level. 3-Swing technique and target fixation -When you're cutting with your blade I'm noticing that your swing is not at a comfortable level for you. I would reccomend lowering it so that you don't feel that you have to keep raising your shoulders at the last moment. Since training a correct sword swing is not neccesary for your project, I think it would be a waste of your time to learn swordsmanship. Of course, for your own fun and enrichment, I would say go for it LOL. But just for this project you could just work on a horizontal baseball swing or a vertical axe chop. The actual way to swing a katana takes a lot of work, and i think that your material would not do very well for the job (but I could be wrong). Once your swing is good, then I would focus on making sure that your target cant fall away so much. A lot of the energy of your swing is being dissapated by the movement of your target. 4-Safety -Even when you're cutting into soft targets, you can still have material failure. Since your sword is an unknown quantity I would highly reccomend that you at least wear safety glasses at all times. Since you're not a trained swordsman, you might also want to wear some wrist wraps so that any reverberation of energy back through the sword into your hands doesn't injure your wrists.
small point to add that I believe you missed(or i missed you saying), that the curve of the katana allows for easier edge alignment for a more straight on cut as the weight will carry to the back of the swing.
This may be waaayyyy too much work, but there has to be a way to bend the light at the beveled planes so that the light hitting them is transferred through the opposing plane at the correct angle. I'm assuming it would involve changing grain structure at the edge through some sort of heat/pressure treating at edge and end up sacrificing a lot of durability where you want it most, making super precise convex/concave bevels, or a combination of the two. You might even be able to use a mirrored flexible adhesive to create a prism out of the edge (if such an adhesive exists). Either way it would make a great showpiece, but likely wouldn't be functional.
The geometry between the blade and the tang is very important. Never make a hard angle to a point when reducing for the grip. It always needs a rounded transition because otherwise all the force focuses on that point and snaps it like that.
Hey man, I saw a lot of comments saying that the cause of the snapped handle is because of the geometry which could be partially true, however the primary reason why this happened is because polycarbonate becomes brittle when it is exposed to superglue or loctite due to the active ingredient cyanoacrylate.
I think it’s a combination of the two. The added rigidity from the super glue, and the perfect line of 90° angles at the stress point. The handle couldn’t flex, and where it couldn’t flex was a straight line where a light scoring would snap that poly
Adversely he should try shortening the blade so that it doesn't flex as much... that much flex in any kind of swinging bladed weapon is not what you want unless you're making a whip sword
Nice job! A couple advices: 1) when unsure about how a material will react to being worked on with a machine, try on a small disposable piece first. 2) when cutting the handle recess, drill holes first to avoid sharp corners, from which a crack could be generated.
I work with this material a lot, to get a perfect clear edge you need to get them flame polished. The difference between that and hand sanding is crazy. Only thing is it takes a specialist tool, using a flame from a lighter isn’t the same thing. Maybe this will help you for the future :)
A large part of your handle failure root cause lies in the sharp, 90 degree inside corner you made for the guard. This is a classic stress riser feature at it's worst. If you were to put a significant radius in that corner, and round the inside of the guard to match, it may hold up to all of the testing you did with it. But just rounding it off to spare your hands seems to work great, too. 😁
Thoroughly enjoyed watching this journey and such an eye opener. One can expect to see this invisible weaponry coming to a town/ city near you anytime soon.
16:14 partially correct. The flexibility shouldn’t affect its ability to cut much, as steel swords also flex quite a lot. The thickness of the blade is part of the reason it doesn’t cut clean, but the main reason is the steep bevel. A bevel like that can’t get particularly sharp, and it’s a rough transition from the edge of the blade to the spine, massively reducing its cutting effectiveness
The reason I was swinging it like a bat, is because I knew it wouldn't cut like a real katana, so I probably had a better chance of destroying the targets that way. I'll improve V1 of the sword (thinner) and properly use it too!
15:02 swordmaker here. When you make a sharp transition like between the tang and blade you create a stress riser. You need to create a round transition
Going back to your first design that was not as transparent as you wanted could make a cool looking ice sword, especially with the fractal pattern on the Suba, but really you should use this material to make a war axe. That way you can layer it to get that frosty look while the edge stays clear. Add in so clear blue coloring and you have the frost axe of the north.
8:30 I know that smile! My grandfather had a carpentry and I grow up playing in there. After school it was building time! Crossbows, soapbox karts, and any kind of toys and wood mechanisms... Unfortunately he is not here anymore, and all I have are memories from a time that passed too fast. That smile is everything, hold on to it brother!
I’m not normally one to critique, but since you mentioned you weren’t familiar with bandsaws, I thought I might chime in. I noticed that at about 4:33 you made a small cut which allowed the piece to release, as the longer cut was already finished. It’s generally (when possible) best practice to make your longest cut last so that you’re backing out along the blade as little as possible. This lowers your chance of binding the band, which can injure you and damage your equipment and material. You can also make relief cuts into the middle of long spans, like along your (katana) blade, so that you can more easily adjust or take breaks. Hopefully this is helpful, and sorry for the long comment, especially if it’s not. Really good work and really cool video-thank you for making it!
I quite liked the distortion effect on the first version. Also, I think this would look fantastic with normal looking, visible katana handle (guard, wrap, etc) and just the transparent blade. Could even put some lights in the handle so it put on a funky and distracting show for your hypothetical enemies. Flicking between invisible, hyponotic and bright flashes on demand.
Another reason of why the sword was fragile at the handle is because of the sudden change of shape from handle to blade : This is called stress concentration, and it occurs where there is a sudden change in geometry or dimensions of a material, which causes an increased concentration of stress in that specific area Additionnaly, one of the reasons of why it did a poor cut on a watermelon could be due to technique, and the thickness of the blade. Swords are purposefully flexible, maybe not as much as yours but this is in order for steel to be able to go back to its original shape, and not just bend when an amount of force is applied. Maybe you can try but cutting and not swinging it like a bat, for exemple when you cut vegetables with a knife, you don't just chop it, but you also do a slicing motion, though this is an idea as I have no experience in using a sword, and only know the very small basics of material resistance, and I hope it helps !
it kind of reminds me of the berserk blade because of the little sharpness it has on the sides the weight and mass of it allows it to sever and cleave the object in front of it
For somebody who has no experience in the field, you did a great job. But with that edge it's closest to an axe, not a sword. I'd be interested in the v1 version of the sword which really looked great. I'd also love rounded edges so you see distortions but no sharp edges.
The sword bending is actually perfect. The problem is you aren't use to swinging a sword. It's not a baseball bat or a cricket bat. You have to have good edge alignment with your swing.
The distortion effect was WAY cooler than just transparent! Wow that looked amazing! The sword ended up being more like a floppy long axe or something with that crazy shallow bevel.
This resemble nothing like a katana. I like the efforts you put into the video, and I thought you would make a katana out of transparent aluminum with first of the world record hardness
The sledgehammer test breaking the sawhorses was unintentionally so funny. You praised the polycarb for how little damage it took when the sawhorses took almost all of the impact (evidence - they broke). The base has to be stable and in-compressible otherwise you're just passing the force through to the object at the end of the chain. If you're going to use wood at least make them stumps. Also for the bandsaw, you should extend the base to support the weight of the thing you're cutting as the bouncing changes the angle the saw meets your piece.
You're not passing any force to the end of the chain. All of the objects in the chain feel the force, minus anything that was absorbed and converted into something else by all of the objects before it. So the polycarbonate felt more force than the sawhorses.
@@mrkiky The further down the chain you go in this case, the more force that is imparted. The sawhorses bent and broke under the all of the force that was transferred through the polycarb, except for the energy removed from bending and displacing (plus heat, minor scratching, sound, etc). Try this again but using stumps or rock as your base and you'll see the difference. There will be more bending, potentially shattering as seen in the handle due to flex angles, the sledge hammer will be pushed back with far more force, etc. This is basic high school physics. It's why you want your car to crumple in a crash, to absorb the force that would otherwise go through your body. The sawhorses were the crumple zone, and airbags.
So this video is basically a series of fortunate events, every thing he tried out worked great, and even the random details on the handle and guard came out amazing by accident. Very cool.
This version is more of a sharp club than a sword, it didn't so much slice or cut as dent and smash, and shortening it actually did you some favors in terms of being able to maintain edge alignment. I'm really glad you dulled the handle before trying the harder objects! It's still a devastating weapon, capable of shattering bone and crushing muscle tissue and cartilage into useless pulp. Honestly just as terrifying as a clean cut in its own way. Bottom line, It's sick af. I definitely think you should finish v1 and make it ultrasharp- a translucent sword is still dope!
If it was the first design which is less transparent, then it probably would be sharper. But as of right now, this is an awesome looking katana, almost like a blade made of ice.
Just a tip for your next blades, in a sword the highest energetic point is on the tip. So if you hit next to that curved spot you're gonna give some SERIOUS damage.
Somebody who's played Ultima 6 here. Strongest weapon in the game by far are the invisible swords at 255 damage. Interestingly, they break after one hit. ;) Also, they're made of glass.
I used to binge your videos. I'm glad you did this video. Its classic CZcams without obnoxious music and ads very easy to watch and entertaining. Keep up the great work, Mike.
I think the handle issue might be the sharp corner. don't forget stress raisers! a smooth curve to reduce the width to the handle size is better than a sharp internal corner!
Middle Age Two-Handers were a similar bludgeoning weapon. The outstanding capacity of a Katana is its sharpness. So Test it against a bamboo with straw wrapped around it and do a clear cut. This is a Katana shaped club.
Just gotta say I really love that you're being transparent about how you've not done certain things in this video before! Too many people are so afraid to start things or try things they don't know, and I think more people need to show that part of the process if possible! Sure, nervousness is normal but uust be careful and start slow haha
When sanding or grinding, go the whole length of the sword, it will give you better contrast and easier control while you do it. I’ve made several kitchen knives no katanas though. Good luck.
Skallagrim had a video not long ago about what duelling weapons would look like in the modern age. This is the kind of thing i imagine people carrying.
V1 makes more sense on the efficiency level. V2 is a blunt weapon with a tiny bit of cuttings like a flanged mace. I wouldve love to see comparison with V1.
Your layering of the handle was a good idea and quiet esthetically pleasing, and also wasn't the cause of the break. What caused the break was your cut from cutting out the shape of the handle. When you cut the 90° angle it created a stress point, which can even cause steel blades to fail. Rounding the corner slightly to eliminate the hard angle will make it much stronger. Granted, I'm far from an expert, this is just based on meticulously studying the series Forged in Fire and paying close attention to all the positive and negative observations that the judges make
I'm thinking about improving V1 of the sword, which is obviously going to cut better because of the thinner profile, and making another video comparing that with a real katana. I was also swinging the final sword like a bat, because it lacked cutting abilities but it had a lot of power. Anyways Let me know if you’d like to see an improed version of V1, in which I fix all the mistakes I made, including a better slicing technique!
Edit: I’ll do it
Ps: the reason I kept the katana that thick, is because it would otherwise bend just with gravity. So the improved version of it is going to be shorter, kinda like a real sword.
)
Yes! I'd love to see how well that version would cut! You could easily make a functional cyberpunk katana with some clever use of LED lighting.
13 minutes ago
V1? ULTRAKILL MOMENT??
u forgot to do the hardness 100/10 cutting test which is against itself, polycarbonate.
"Have you ever seen an invisible sword?"
Well no, it's invisible.
HOW THE HECK IS THIS TRENDING IN AUSTRALIA BRUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
I mean, you have a great point😂
EX...
HAHA HAHAHA HAHAHAAAAA!
"Great, you killed the invisible swordsman!"
As a bladesmith, this pisses me off.
As a bro, this is freaking awesome.
Mike, if you see this, i can probably answer most of your questions about knife/sword/weapon making.
The concept is pretty cool and Many of the most egregious flaws can be daily easily fixed with help from someone who knows what to do.
It would definitely be interesting to see another attempt with a little more knowledge behind it.
Oh yes👀
It’s a pretty good impact weapon, it just won’t cut. It’s effective, it’s nearly invisible and it’s durable. I was impressed as hell that he started freehand grinding those first sword bevels halfway through. Those steep bevels on the second one saved it from being destroyed.
As a photographer/videographer, I wish he used a circular polarizer.
@@ryanlundgren as a pineapple i wish people would stop cutting us in half for sword videos
Alright so hear me out:
There is another Japanese Martial Arts style that would make better use of the material, both in regards to its transparency and ability to bend.
I believe it’s called Owari Kan-Ryu, but I just call it the Wobbly Spear technique. In essence, you grab a spear near the bottom and with your lower hand push it back and forth (sliding it through your higher hands grip) so as to cause the tip of the spear to wobble in a circular pattern.
It helps to get past guard stances, and would likely benefit greatly from having an invisible spear used.
Like Hyouga from Dr. Stone?
Spear guy from Dr.stone
Even just an invisible spear blade
"what are you doing spinning that stick around"- the first victim of the invisible wobbly spear
@@enigma9971 I don’t know if that would work as well. The blade would diffract light, which might not be a huge issue if the whole spear is invisible but would be if just the spear head was as you’d see the wood looking wonky through the spear head which would tip you off to its presence faster.
*"Glass is glass, and glass breaks."*
that reference made me smile :)
where is from?
@@igorrauan9205 JerryRigEverything, great channel on CZcams.
@@igorrauan9205 @JerryRigEverything
The fact that the blade is so thick that it reacts like an thin hammer and not a katana. It do not cut but completely smash the objects !
The fact that his stroke is baseball bat smashing, not cutting.
Yeah, the first blade would have likely cut much better, even if it's far less transparent.
@@joedingo7022 I want him to test the first blade. It would;ld have to be a better cutter, but maybe not as robust...
It's mostly the taper off the edge and somewhat the thickness of the whole "blade"
Just as in regular cutting. It's behind the edge thickness. A thin but completely dull knife will still cut through most things while a thick but razor sharp knife will have a very hard time going through an object
Correction “a” thin hammer.
17:43 The fly that entered his mouth 😂😂😂
No haa
Gopgop
Fly: Try to cut this mf. 😅😂🤣
What I like about your videos, is that you communicate all the information, but without having to watch hours of footage! Excellent job!!
For every push up this like gets, I'll do one comment
Whos watching this comment in 144p?
Lol
Anyone watching in 2024?
I did ten now go fulfill my request!
Ong
I’ll do 10 pushups and you have to write 10 more commments
Mechanical engineer here. By making a 90 degree angle between the blade and the tang in the handle you created a stress concentration there. Abrupt changes in geometry like this create localized stresses far greater than the average stress, hence why your blade snapped there. Fun video!
Also, If I'm remembering correctly the flexibility of the material allows for better energy dissipation and lower impulse as the flexibility delays the force by storing energy in it's waves thus increasing the time it takes for all the force to act on the blade.
So sandwiching it between two pieces increased the materials inflexibility at that point, and the flexibility along the axis of the beveled edge isn't good either due to it's thickness, so most of the force along that axis would have been transferred to the tang in a short amount of time, putting it under much greater stress.
So would it have been better just to paracord wrap the tang itself ??
@@kyjohns8271 If by the tang you mean just the base of the blade (without cutting it), then yes! That's basically what he did in the end by just wrapping the base of the blade with a towel. If you mean keep the 90 degree angle and just wrap the smaller part, then no, the abrupt change in geometry is what induces the higher stresses. If he still wanted to cut the base of the blade to make a handle, he could have reduced the stress concentration factor by rounding the corner where the tang meets the base of the blade with a "fillet." The larger the radius of the fillet, the lower the stress concentration factor. In other words the more rounded the corner, the lower the peak stress caused by the change in geometry. The stress would still be the highest at that point, but it would be much less extreme than the stresses caused by the 90 degree angle he made.
Yup. I was gonna say the same. I was saying to the screen while watching him make the rough cutout, that it needed some fillets in there! lol
Yes
What I love about this is that this is just some dude figuring it out as he goes along. He's not some professional but he had a cool idea and he wanted to create it so he did.
"Cool sword."
*Snaps in half.*
"Oh, stress risers, riiight."
A true bladesmith does not make mistakes. Just smaller knives.
I’d like to see a test with v1 too. I know it didn’t match the title of the video, but your blade geometry was significantly more conducive to cutting through stuff.
And that small rounded part like in the teeth of T rex.
Real blacksmith here. That's just bs. A single mistake can ruin the whole blade. There is no "just smaller blades"
I actually think the V1 blade looked badass, and the distortion looked like something from a sci-fi movie.
A crystal blade like that is cooler anyway!
@@bubby6858 unless you get it too hot, couldnt you just keep making it smaller to remove mistakes? Just curious
The right angle you cut into the blade where the handle and blade meet is what caused the break, not the added thickness of the handle. The same thing happens with steel weapons - they call it a stress riser. A rounded transition from handle to blade would help avoid it.
Interesting! Thanks!
@@MikeShake to get a nice round transition easily and quickly, drill holes in the places where the cuts are supposed to meet, and then cut the material.
@@chstoney well if you do that it would be almost impossible to polish so it won't be a invisible katana anymore
Didn't he still have the right angle (stress riser) when he redid the handle? I was thinking the same thing until he cut the handle in again
@@king_the_titan8 guy meant drill a large hole to create a fillet
Edit: google "fillet machining" if you don't know what that is
Hardness is not the same as tenacity, as a mechanical property. Policarbonate is not a hard material, so it is basically unable to actually retain the sharpness of the edge. That's why most of the test showed breaks by blunt weapon impacts, and not much of a cut.
Still, it is a very cool weapon and admire your attitude of fucking around and finding out. Great video as always!
Bro I love this video, your face when the sword breaks off from the handle and your just processing the emotions after all that hard work had my dying! So relatable lmao Hope you do continue to do well, much love from the USA!
The biggest reason your handle snapped off is the geometry of your sword. Having those sharp interior corners creates a stress concentrator. It's like if you have a 10 lane highway suddenly shrink into a 1 lane country road with no transition. All the cars (stress lines) have to bunch up at that point, cramming into that tiny area with no easing into it. It works when traffic is low (like swinging the swrod through the air), but the moment there's any serious traffic (like hitting the pineapple) there are too many cars trying to go into that 1 lane. For the cars, they just can't move anywhere, for your sword, it breaks.
You will always run into this issue with making the grip smaller than the blade, but adding internal radii or some way to gradually reduce the size, will help to prevent this failure in the future. That will always be your point of failure on a sword made out of a single material. Katanas, even though they are made from one piece of steel, have different hardnesses at different parts of the blade and grip effectively making them multi-material sword.
I bet you that if you were to take your V1 sword, even though it is a sharper blade, you will have the handle snap off even if you don't make the handle thicker. It's just a nature of your sword geometry and really only something you can learn from spending too much time reading books, or breaking things like your doing, which is how the books were written in the first place.
I also don't want to invalidate your own discovery of adding material to the handle making it stiffer and contributing to the blade breaking. That is definitely a part of it and an awesome insight to have found. I just want to highlight that your 2D geometry has as much a roll in the strength of the blade as the 3D geometry does.
It’s actually most likely due to the fact that most superglues react with polycarbonate to make it brittle.
@@samp1501 I'm of the reasoning that while the polycarbonate is able to flex along the flat edge, by hitting the material from it's most rigid side will always transfer more energy into the blade with nowhere to go but its weakest point.
@@amosdotl6892 is a combination of everything, he needs to remove some material to turn the sharp inner corners of the blade handle transition into round corners, for the handle 2 scales of polycarbonate are okay but only gluing them to each other so they encase the handle and then hold it with a polycarbonate pin so if shit hits the fan the polycarbonate pin breaks.
🤓
Good comment! I was going to point out the sharp angles where the handle meets the blade as well. There's a reason real, properly made swords are rounded there.
15:02 swordmaker here. When you make a sharp transition like between the tang and blade you create a stress riser. You need to create a round transition.
In this case it’s a cemical reaction to superglue. The ”ice effekt” in the handle are multiple micro cracks.
@@robinlundh3962 That's not what he was talking about. What he is talking about, that in the area where the blade becomes the part of the handle, there is stress on the inside corners. If you ave steep angles in there the item can start cracking in those conrners and the blade snaps off. You need to keep these inside corners as round as technically feasible to avoid those stresspoints.
@@profezzordarke4362 Pollycarbonate does not have the same mecanic disabilities as metal. It would only bend easier when narrowed down and you could do sharper cornering than this and it would not crack.
Unless you cemicaly change the capabillity of the material, in this case with superglue.
Superglue made microcracks all along the handle and it broke exactly where the material was no longer trippled in thickness.
Rest of the movie it worked fine. Even narrowed down on the sander.
Superglue is the culprit in this case nothing els.
If it were steel. I would agree with the swordmaker.
@@robinlundh3962 wrong. Stress risers due to sharp internal corners occur irrespective of the material.
The "cracks" that you refer to are in the handle itself, and the point of breakage is right before the guard, meaning it wouldn't make physical sense to break there instead of along the handle shaft where these "cracks" are. Furthermore the "cracks" are along the length of the shaft, while the breakage is perfectly perpendicular to it, exactly how a stress riser point breakage acts.
Also, I say "cracks" because those are not direct deterioration of the poly through chemical reaction as you say, but simply weird light angles on the dried glue between the 3 total sheets of pol, causing a lot of refraction and reflection and the cool effect. Glue can't erode poly. The full structure would be in all fairness actually stronger, especially since the glue as a bond agent adds even more total strength between the 3 pieces combined.
Mike shake, i have been watching your videos for a long time and you helped me learn so many skills and not be bored during covid
Your sense of humor is a nice bonus to your amazing work on the transparent katana. :)
Airport security isn’t gonna like this one..
Airport security isn’t gonna see this one..
Nice@@ShortArtGuy
They won't see it coming 😏
Wait a minute i thought I saw a sword in there, hmmmm never mind just my imagination
“Did that man just stab a guy with air? He’s the last avatar!”
"That thing was too big to be called a sword. Too big, too thick, too transparent, and too plasticky, it was more like a large hunk of polycarbonate."
Chapter 376 coming soon!
Damn, I wanted to post pretty much this comment, haha...
@@tophateyeball7198 hard same glad another berker got here first
In that case, a regular sword is just a hunk of metal.
Wait i know this manwha but i forget the title please help
I wanted to do a joint email with multiple youtubers but I couldn't find your email so here is your part of it.
Thank you Mike Shake, for teaching me that there is no talent, only skill. That anything I put my mind to can and should be learned. You are very skilled. Also fun fact, my birthday is a day after yours, isn't that cool. You have made me want to cultivate my brain into doing fantastic things I thought were reserved to those with some kind of inner expertise and talent. I want to learn because of you, I want to do, I want to become everything I dreamed about, that I can be as fluid as billions of years of evolution in this singular life. You inspire me, and also have introduced me to a few skills I enjoy myself. A teacher of the want: to be taught and learn.
Dude! I tooootally appreciate your content, creativity and humor! Please keep them going! I AM a HUGE fantasy weapon glutton! When I get the time and materials, I want to make 2 of these invis short swords. 22”-25” seem ideal! Thank you!!!
"When it's wet, it looks great"
His expression 😭💀
dirty mind hahaha
That part was hilarious. Tells you a lot about him 😂 he's great tho
RXD_BB💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀.
"Have you ever seen an invisible sword?"
No sir, I have not.
At 3 likes, this is clearly an under-rated comment
@@hikaihikonoken9052 At 3 likes, this is clearly an under-rated reply
@@abrobot9261At 3 likes, this is clearly an under-rated reply
@@TheYeetedMeat At 3 likes, this is clearly an under-rated reply
At 3 likes, this is clearly an under-rated reply
It's actually a clever way to confuse your metal armor wearing enemy into thinking they're against a sword when in reality they're facing a mace.
another big part of why the blade snapped at the hilt isn't just about the quality of the blade, but rather your edge alignment on the hit.
The katana hit the pineapple with it's edge facing upwards, which effectively moved the middle of the blade up and away from it's inertia, turning your horizontal cutting force partially into a vertical snapping force. I reckon the blade would've survived with better edge alignment, and that can be aided with better handle design to make your natural grip closer to keeping the edge straight and practice in cutting smaller targets that won't be solid enough to break the sword.
“Glass is glass and glass breaks” loving the Jerry rig reference
Yes
Bro violated the pumpkin at 16:24
glad i'm not the only one who noticed lol
Welp i can still see it
Came looking for this comment
14:35 Katana becomes really invisible 😂
😭😭
It disappeared right before my eyes
100% transparent
100%
You're a mean one, mr. Grinch
The title: (its unbreakable)
katana : snaps in the most classic cheap childs toy style
Acabo de descubrir este canal y es increíble como llevas tus ideas a la realidad, el único detalle es que soy de habla hispana, pero con la pista de audio en español el alcance de tus videos puede aumentar un montón y alcanzar muchas más vistas, y una gran oportunidad de crecimiento para ti, suerte y mucho exito en el canal
This is his weaponmasters arc. First he mastered the fight and now he is learning the forging.
watch him become zoro in a couple days
The story of the strongest italian: the movie
The italian samurai?
@@CatBoxOfficialHe deserves one.
then the crafting (cooking ig)
so, coming from combat robots where polycarb is used a lot, i can tell you that cyanoacrylate makes polycarb brittle.
it was the ca glue reacting with the polycarbonate that made it turn brittle.
there is a chemical bonding agent made to glue polycarbonate, but isn't a glue, it effectively melts the 2 pieces together making it almost as strong as if it were 1 whole piece
This needs more likes
@@Rjciralli yeh, why is everything so underrated
So basically it makes a reaction that "plastic welds" itself, that's cool.
@@Keyboard-Emperor Yeah it's more common that you'd think. Solvent weld is very common in modern plumbing.
^
Anyone has the will to do the impossible and MikeShake is a prime example of that
Now hes fully prepared to become "The One!" No other highlander will stand in the way of his high polished transparent blade of doom!!! THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE, HIGHLANDER 🤘🏽😝🤘🏽
Awesome stuff. Trick as well. You can flame polish the edges to make them almost transparent after cutting. Also use resin instead of super glue to bond acrylic or get acrylic weld. Look at some aquarium videos to see how that works. It melts the two acrylic parts together rather than a glue. 👍
Thanks for the info!
Anytime! Keep up the good work!
@@MikeShakeyou should make invisible baseball bat next
@@Lizardman60 that wouldn't work
not sure about the flame. maybe if ur super careful bu last time i tried heat to smooth it out i overdid it and got bubbles in the material.
@MikeShake I love this project and I'd like to help you make it better. I think that there are several areas of consideration for the next version and testing methods. I have not read all 6700+ comments, so please forgive me if I repeat any. I hope some of this helps.
1- The thickness of the "katana" and it's cutting edge
-A katana is not meant to "cleave" through things. The curved shape of katana is meant to provide the smallest amount of cutting surface on the target. This increases the PSI of the cut. When you see a katana "chopping" through something, don't imagine an axe going through wood. Imagine the blade being dragged through the target and slicing deeper as the blade is pulled across the target's surface. More like a saw would work, slowly getting deeper by cutting along the surface, not going straight through.
-A katana is thin so that (among other reasons) it can pass through the target with the least resistance. What you have created functions less like a katana and more like an axe, machete or kukri. However, if you decrease the blade's thickness, it will of course be weaker.
-The edge angle is very wide, which is going to be more resilient to damage, but is not going to cut very well. That is why your cuts were messy. Of course, the narrower the edge, the more easily it will be damaged.
-The problem you had with the blade being more visible with the shallower cutting angle would be lessened if the blade were thinner (as it would have less distance to travel from tip to flat)
2-Target materials
-If you're trying to make an invisible katana, you would want to test it against objects that katanas are normally tested against. I have seen a katana cut a bullet, but if I remember correctly, the blade was badly damaged afterwords. The katana was ideally used to attack soft tissue and slice deeply enough with one cut to open an artery or reach vital organs. The easiest way to do this with a blade is to stab, which is why spears and arrows were more favored in large scale conflict and most blades (that I'm aware of) were meant to deal the finishing wound with a stab. There is a very interesting history about katanas and why they were shaped and used as they were. I highly reccoment learning about them if you want to take your project to the next level.
3-Swing technique and target fixation
-When you're cutting with your blade I'm noticing that your swing is not at a comfortable level for you. I would reccomend lowering it so that you don't feel that you have to keep raising your shoulders at the last moment. Since training a correct sword swing is not neccesary for your project, I think it would be a waste of your time to learn swordsmanship. Of course, for your own fun and enrichment, I would say go for it LOL. But just for this project you could just work on a horizontal baseball swing or a vertical axe chop. The actual way to swing a katana takes a lot of work, and i think that your material would not do very well for the job (but I could be wrong). Once your swing is good, then I would focus on making sure that your target cant fall away so much. A lot of the energy of your swing is being dissapated by the movement of your target.
4-Safety
-Even when you're cutting into soft targets, you can still have material failure. Since your sword is an unknown quantity I would highly reccomend that you at least wear safety glasses at all times. Since you're not a trained swordsman, you might also want to wear some wrist wraps so that any reverberation of energy back through the sword into your hands doesn't injure your wrists.
small point to add that I believe you missed(or i missed you saying), that the curve of the katana allows for easier edge alignment for a more straight on cut as the weight will carry to the back of the swing.
Wrote all that just to get two comments lol😊😂😊
@@kastrodelacruz2721three replies now!
u wasted ur time, bro is not gonna read all that
Bro... this is intelligently written 👏
I read through, and it's quite enlightening!
Are you a swordsman? Or affiliated to any?
I actually really liked the v1, the distortion makes it seem like some magical fantasy sword, i hope we get to see more of it!
This may be waaayyyy too much work, but there has to be a way to bend the light at the beveled planes so that the light hitting them is transferred through the opposing plane at the correct angle. I'm assuming it would involve changing grain structure at the edge through some sort of heat/pressure treating at edge and end up sacrificing a lot of durability where you want it most, making super precise convex/concave bevels, or a combination of the two. You might even be able to use a mirrored flexible adhesive to create a prism out of the edge (if such an adhesive exists). Either way it would make a great showpiece, but likely wouldn't be functional.
It definitely deals more blunt and internal damage than slicing damage.
Really cool!
8:35 banned from CZcams
????
The geometry between the blade and the tang is very important. Never make a hard angle to a point when reducing for the grip. It always needs a rounded transition because otherwise all the force focuses on that point and snaps it like that.
I like katana v2 with the glowing edge. It looks so badass.
Hey man, I saw a lot of comments saying that the cause of the snapped handle is because of the geometry which could be partially true, however the primary reason why this happened is because polycarbonate becomes brittle when it is exposed to superglue or loctite due to the active ingredient cyanoacrylate.
I think it’s a combination of the two. The added rigidity from the super glue, and the perfect line of 90° angles at the stress point. The handle couldn’t flex, and where it couldn’t flex was a straight line where a light scoring would snap that poly
Adversely he should try shortening the blade so that it doesn't flex as much... that much flex in any kind of swinging bladed weapon is not what you want unless you're making a whip sword
Nice job! A couple advices:
1) when unsure about how a material will react to being worked on with a machine, try on a small disposable piece first.
2) when cutting the handle recess, drill holes first to avoid sharp corners, from which a crack could be generated.
Even steel swords have a radius (smooth transition) between the handle and the blade, sharp [interior] corners are always a weak point.
This is the most badass thing I've seen in a long time! I want to attempt this now lol.
I work with this material a lot, to get a perfect clear edge you need to get them flame polished. The difference between that and hand sanding is crazy. Only thing is it takes a specialist tool, using a flame from a lighter isn’t the same thing. Maybe this will help you for the future :)
dude i can just imagine an even clearer version, it would be crazy
yep
Bruh like this so he can see it
That's really interesting, should I sand before flame polishing or could I do that right after the belt grinder?
@@MikeShake no need for sanding really, but perhaps sanding to assure you have a nice level edge before hand wouldn't be a bad thing :)
17:43 I thought that the bee was real lol
me too
A large part of your handle failure root cause lies in the sharp, 90 degree inside corner you made for the guard. This is a classic stress riser feature at it's worst. If you were to put a significant radius in that corner, and round the inside of the guard to match, it may hold up to all of the testing you did with it. But just rounding it off to spare your hands seems to work great, too. 😁
Thoroughly enjoyed watching this journey and such an eye opener. One can expect to see this invisible weaponry coming to a town/ city near you anytime soon.
16:14 partially correct. The flexibility shouldn’t affect its ability to cut much, as steel swords also flex quite a lot. The thickness of the blade is part of the reason it doesn’t cut clean, but the main reason is the steep bevel. A bevel like that can’t get particularly sharp, and it’s a rough transition from the edge of the blade to the spine, massively reducing its cutting effectiveness
It doesn't help that he's swinging the sword like a baseball bat
That's the other thing tbh, a curved sword shouldn't be swung like a base all bat as said above!
And his technique and edge alignment
@@systemcheater9071 Edge alignment isn't even real.
The reason I was swinging it like a bat, is because I knew it wouldn't cut like a real katana, so I probably had a better chance of destroying the targets that way. I'll improve V1 of the sword (thinner) and properly use it too!
Demon slayer moment 14:41
😂
😂😂
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂
15:02 swordmaker here. When you make a sharp transition like between the tang and blade you create a stress riser. You need to create a round transition
Going back to your first design that was not as transparent as you wanted could make a cool looking ice sword, especially with the fractal pattern on the Suba, but really you should use this material to make a war axe. That way you can layer it to get that frosty look while the edge stays clear. Add in so clear blue coloring and you have the frost axe of the north.
That's a hammer, not a sword.
You do it then
@@jacobgonzalez25ye
Why to do it in the first place 🤷
@@jacobgonzalez25 "You do it then"
The classical zero IQ response. Why insult your own intelligence?
🤓👆 that’s a hammer, not a sword
8:30
I know that smile!
My grandfather had a carpentry and I grow up playing in there. After school it was building time! Crossbows, soapbox karts, and any kind of toys and wood mechanisms...
Unfortunately he is not here anymore, and all I have are memories from a time that passed too fast.
That smile is everything, hold on to it brother!
uhh that wasn't why he smiled........
you know he was making a joke about.... semen? right?
Who’s gonna tell him?
He was talking about pussy
@TheVaibhav26 True for that specific occasion, but I smiled plenty of times for the love of what I was doing, so I totally appreciate this comment!
This will become the future of melee combat. Knives, swords, axes and shields made from this stuff will be kind of terrifying
The thumbnail puts the phrase "is this the pain you felt before, cloud?" To a whole new level 😱
1:15 "and other indestructible items" - lol, I absolutely lost it :D
Same 😆😆😆
Me too lol
No you didn't
@@humanchannel9421 what
This phone is legend and I still have it
I’m not normally one to critique, but since you mentioned you weren’t familiar with bandsaws, I thought I might chime in. I noticed that at about 4:33 you made a small cut which allowed the piece to release, as the longer cut was already finished. It’s generally (when possible) best practice to make your longest cut last so that you’re backing out along the blade as little as possible. This lowers your chance of binding the band, which can injure you and damage your equipment and material. You can also make relief cuts into the middle of long spans, like along your (katana) blade, so that you can more easily adjust or take breaks.
Hopefully this is helpful, and sorry for the long comment, especially if it’s not. Really good work and really cool video-thank you for making it!
Good call, I missed that part 😂
This is reasonable advice
That's not long, & is very good advice
I cant believe he didnt do anything with the first blade. It turned out so well!
For you, I was here all day. Actually you are the best.
I quite liked the distortion effect on the first version.
Also, I think this would look fantastic with normal looking, visible katana handle (guard, wrap, etc) and just the transparent blade. Could even put some lights in the handle so it put on a funky and distracting show for your hypothetical enemies. Flicking between invisible, hyponotic and bright flashes on demand.
hide a string of blue leds along it and shout "Brisingr" before it lights up...
Someone is a fan of cyberpunk 2077 I see
Another reason of why the sword was fragile at the handle is because of the sudden change of shape from handle to blade :
This is called stress concentration, and it occurs where there is a sudden change in geometry or dimensions of a material, which causes an increased concentration of stress in that specific area
Additionnaly, one of the reasons of why it did a poor cut on a watermelon could be due to technique, and the thickness of the blade. Swords are purposefully flexible, maybe not as much as yours but this is in order for steel to be able to go back to its original shape, and not just bend when an amount of force is applied.
Maybe you can try but cutting and not swinging it like a bat, for exemple when you cut vegetables with a knife, you don't just chop it, but you also do a slicing motion, though this is an idea as I have no experience in using a sword, and only know the very small basics of material resistance, and I hope it helps !
it kind of reminds me of the berserk blade because of the little sharpness it has on the sides the weight and mass of it allows it to sever and cleave the object in front of it
Mechanical engineering blacksmith here.
Sleeping is very important so make sure you sleep enough.
This new concept of videos is a great idea, you should continue to create weapons and test them out
He should totally start selling them on a very specific market of sorts to make more money to make more weapons 🤭
@@4rdencyI want an invisible katana for Non-Gun Defense
14:35 was so funny
For somebody who has no experience in the field, you did a great job. But with that edge it's closest to an axe, not a sword. I'd be interested in the v1 version of the sword which really looked great. I'd also love rounded edges so you see distortions but no sharp edges.
The sword bending is actually perfect. The problem is you aren't use to swinging a sword. It's not a baseball bat or a cricket bat. You have to have good edge alignment with your swing.
0:54 JerryRigEverything will be proud about the reference
The distortion effect was WAY cooler than just transparent! Wow that looked amazing!
The sword ended up being more like a floppy long axe or something with that crazy shallow bevel.
This resemble nothing like a katana. I like the efforts you put into the video, and I thought you would make a katana out of transparent aluminum with first of the world record hardness
When u r taking out the tape from KATAN it is so so satisfying and looking pretty Awsome
17:52 EDGE OF THE BLADE LIKE THE GD LEVEL
The sledgehammer test breaking the sawhorses was unintentionally so funny. You praised the polycarb for how little damage it took when the sawhorses took almost all of the impact (evidence - they broke). The base has to be stable and in-compressible otherwise you're just passing the force through to the object at the end of the chain. If you're going to use wood at least make them stumps.
Also for the bandsaw, you should extend the base to support the weight of the thing you're cutting as the bouncing changes the angle the saw meets your piece.
Nothing is incompressible.
You're not passing any force to the end of the chain. All of the objects in the chain feel the force, minus anything that was absorbed and converted into something else by all of the objects before it. So the polycarbonate felt more force than the sawhorses.
have you ever "SEEN" an "INVISIBLE" 🗿
@@petermgruhn 'Incompressible given the forces present.' You're welcome, Captain Pedantic.
@@mrkiky The further down the chain you go in this case, the more force that is imparted. The sawhorses bent and broke under the all of the force that was transferred through the polycarb, except for the energy removed from bending and displacing (plus heat, minor scratching, sound, etc).
Try this again but using stumps or rock as your base and you'll see the difference. There will be more bending, potentially shattering as seen in the handle due to flex angles, the sledge hammer will be pushed back with far more force, etc.
This is basic high school physics. It's why you want your car to crumple in a crash, to absorb the force that would otherwise go through your body. The sawhorses were the crumple zone, and airbags.
So this video is basically a series of fortunate events, every thing he tried out worked great, and even the random details on the handle and guard came out amazing by accident. Very cool.
OMG I just watched the pineapple bit.
Love the details and interest you have in anything your doing not just for views ❤
This version is more of a sharp club than a sword, it didn't so much slice or cut as dent and smash, and shortening it actually did you some favors in terms of being able to maintain edge alignment. I'm really glad you dulled the handle before trying the harder objects! It's still a devastating weapon, capable of shattering bone and crushing muscle tissue and cartilage into useless pulp. Honestly just as terrifying as a clean cut in its own way.
Bottom line, It's sick af. I definitely think you should finish v1 and make it ultrasharp- a translucent sword is still dope!
Sharp club, you mean an Axe?
@@GPS08 Haha, yeah, basically. Although I think an axe would still be sharper than this was.
As a blacksmith myself I know the pain of having your creations break but you did learn something from it so amen
If it was the first design which is less transparent, then it probably would be sharper.
But as of right now, this is an awesome looking katana, almost like a blade made of ice.
Just a tip for your next blades, in a sword the highest energetic point is on the tip. So if you hit next to that curved spot you're gonna give some SERIOUS damage.
The first one was way cooler honestly.
It'd probably cut far better too; this one was more like smashing objects.
13:11 bro is literally holding nothing for 32 seconds
Somebody who's played Ultima 6 here. Strongest weapon in the game by far are the invisible swords at 255 damage. Interestingly, they break after one hit. ;) Also, they're made of glass.
I really wanted to see the first sword tested on cutting. It was so much sharper. Fun video!
I used to binge your videos. I'm glad you did this video. Its classic CZcams without obnoxious music and ads very easy to watch and entertaining. Keep up the great work, Mike.
I love this classic style too
I think the handle issue might be the sharp corner. don't forget stress raisers! a smooth curve to reduce the width to the handle size is better than a sharp internal corner!
Yes, indeed. We call them stress concentrations, but yes.
Middle Age Two-Handers were a similar bludgeoning weapon. The outstanding capacity of a Katana is its sharpness. So Test it against a bamboo with straw wrapped around it and do a clear cut. This is a Katana shaped club.
it hits like a bludgeoning weapon but can cut which is so cool
in theory it sounds like the perfect zombie apocalypse weapon
“He Is a Man of Focus, Commitment and Sheer Fucking Will”
correction he is the man of focus commitment and sheer fucking will
Wait a minute!
Just gotta say I really love that you're being transparent about how you've not done certain things in this video before! Too many people are so afraid to start things or try things they don't know, and I think more people need to show that part of the process if possible! Sure, nervousness is normal but uust be careful and start slow haha
ha, transparent
Bro Is On His Villan Ark With This One. The Fact That You Were Able To Do All These Things Well Amazes Me. Good Job!
When sanding or grinding, go the whole length of the sword, it will give you better contrast and easier control while you do it. I’ve made several kitchen knives no katanas though. Good luck.
Skallagrim had a video not long ago about what duelling weapons would look like in the modern age. This is the kind of thing i imagine people carrying.
Katana Cut Pineapple ❌
Pineapple Cut Katana ✅
14:30
V1 makes more sense on the efficiency level. V2 is a blunt weapon with a tiny bit of cuttings like a flanged mace. I wouldve love to see comparison with V1.
Your layering of the handle was a good idea and quiet esthetically pleasing, and also wasn't the cause of the break. What caused the break was your cut from cutting out the shape of the handle. When you cut the 90° angle it created a stress point, which can even cause steel blades to fail. Rounding the corner slightly to eliminate the hard angle will make it much stronger. Granted, I'm far from an expert, this is just based on meticulously studying the series Forged in Fire and paying close attention to all the positive and negative observations that the judges make
there's metamaterial matrices/fractal antenna patterns that make objects coated or blocked with it to become invisible.