Some folks may be ordering a cassette instead of a freewheel. They look the same but this ebike will not take a cassette! Make sure you are getting a Freewheel and it will be the 11-34 tooth. The 11-32 tooth is no longer available and Amazon was linking to the cassette. The link is correct now to the 7 speed, 11-34 tooth freewheel! - amzn.to/3wYWa1k Here is a video explaining the differences between a Freewheel and a Cassette. - czcams.com/video/23vOT3iJTIc/video.html Sorry for any confusion, if you receive a cassette, you'll need to return it and get the freewheel.
You say at the 19:00 mark that the derailleur can’t handle the 34, but mention using it now above. I live in a very hilly area and need the low gear for climbing and the high gear to be able to pedal at class 3 speeds. Will the 34 work or not? I too ran into the issue mentioned in the comment and mistakenly ordered a cassette instead of the freewheel since your old link went to the 34. I knew the difference but missed that it showed me a cassette when looking for a freewheel.
@@killercanary95GT Sorry about the cassette/freewheel confusion. I tried to update that as soon as I could. As for the derailleur, the stock Tourney one will still work with the 34t, it's just a very budget Shimano derailleur and if you know you will be using the low (34t) gear a lot, I would recommend upgrading it for the long term. I would get the Shimano Acera rear derailleur -- amzn.to/397yjT7. It is much better quality and will handle the 34t gear easier and last far longer. In order for these companies to keep the price of these bikes as low as they are, they have to cut some corners. (like using budget components) I'll add a video soon on how to install it.
@@PedalWithPower thanks so much for the quick response! I just ordered the 11-34 and will install it this week. I am looking forward to your video on the tourney install! I think the 34 will be ideal for some of the very steep hills I have to climb around me as the stock setup has me pedaling at max effort to climb them now in 1st gear with pedal assist on max.
Jus upgraded today my mechanic installed the new freewheel that you put in the link my mechanic charged me 90$ instaling he also put slime in both tires and tuned everything up and put new pedal on for me great thsnks
Thanks, that was a very comprehensive video. I have a Mars HeyBike, it looks the same, I'm getting new tires and now while I'm changing them it looks like a great time to upgrade the stroke. Thanks again for the lesson.
Love the upgrade, bought one immediately. I felt the bike was still a decent workout in my area until I changed the speed to 28MPH, glad to see there is an upgradable gear that works with the bike to fix the ratio!
Sir that was an excellent video. I bought all of the same items you listed on here from Amazon. I’m in the process of installing them now. I needed to watch your video one more time to make sure I didn’t miss anything. Thank you very much for posting this. 👍👏
i have done a far amount of my own car work but i always like watching a video on something i have not tried like changing the freewheel of my lectric ebike i just ordered so thanks for the nice video i might change it but ill first ride the bike and see how it feels again thanks for the clear how to video
That's awesome! I will be adding a couple of videos soon about how to adjust the rear derailleur and the brakes. When you re-install the rear wheel you almost always have to adjust rear brake, and adding the new freewheel, you may need to adjust the derailleur a little bit. I'll try to get those tutorials up as soon as I can. Both adjustments can be tricky.
Chris Excellent Video. This evening I installed a Drift Maniac 11-34 7 speed freewheeliing sprocket on my several year old lectric 2.0 (no fancy front fork and 4 " wheels). Everything went amazingly well. One difference from what you did was my removal of the spacer to make the sprocket closer to the hub. I see you didn't do that. After putting everything back together all the gears worked except for the low gear sprocket. The stock derailure hits the side of the new lower gear and is apparently unable to engage the teeth. when I manually place the chain onto the low sprocket by moving the derailure arm away from the gears, the chain doesn't sit right and makes intense grinding noises. Once on the low gear sprocket I'm not able to shift into higher gears. I see in a subsequent video you replace the derailure mechanism and mention it solves some of the problems with the 11-34 set up when using stock equipment. You don't go into detail about the problems. Questions: 1. I assume the derailure in this video is the stock set up. Were you able to make it work? If so, do you think my removal of the one washer/spacer is causing my problems? 2. Do you think replacing the stock derailure will solve the problem. I gather the new one will have to somehow sit lower so as not to hit the side of the sprocket. Thanks..
Thanks for the great video, I did it and much nicer on the hills. It was easy thanks to your video. I did it with the bike upside down , I think that was easier.
I just did this exact mod but 11-28 freewheel on my Coswheel T20. I’ve never used the 28t gear as it’s reasonably flat. I upgraded to the DNP 11-28 freewheel, but I had to take the Shimano spacer off the hub when I removed the freewheel as the new one sat out further than the original. I notice you left yours on. I also upgraded to Juin Tech hydraulic piston, mechanical actuated brake calliper. Fantastic upgrade to do as the brakes now work from both sides! No hesitation or uncertainty. As a note. The Park tool is the ONLY tool that would fit over my axle. I had one on order but stupidly bought a local one while I was waiting. I modified the local tool with a dremel without issue, but wish I had just waited.
Nice Rudolph, you're rockin' that upgrades. I looked into the Juin brakes, good to know they are awesome. I don't have money for those right now, but maybe in the future.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I installed the 11-34 on my Lectric 2.0 as well, and I was ghost peddling like you at 26-27mph. I sold the bike 6 months ago but kept the 11-34 freewheel. A week ago I bought a Senada, "Drifter". It's basically the same bike frame, and electronics, but it has the 4" fat tires. So I put the 11-34 freewheel on this bike, and guess what? No more ghost peddling. I've had the bike just over 30mph, and with fifth mechanical gear. The other note worthy difference between the bikes is, is that Senada programmed the controller differently in that; PAS levels with the throttle are governed to the assist level you are in. With the Lectric bike, while in PAS1 and I gave it full throttle the bike would go to 20mph! When I ride hills as you demonstrated I use PAS1 and the 34 tooth ring on the freewheel, but then again I'm retired and have all day. I guess I just feel the need to pamper that controller. Happy cycling, take care, be safe...
How did you sell it for ? I was thinking of selling mine and getting something better I have the xp2.0 with long range battery and regular battery with blue waterproof pannier bag with 2 comfort seats and 2 regular seat and 1 Xtra 20x3
Thank you very much! This upgrade will work on any ebike with a 7 speed freewheel. Just count the teeth on your smallest and biggest cogs (gears) on your current freewheel to make sure you are actually improving your gear range. If you already have an 11-32 tooth freewheel, then this won't help. The Lectric XP comes with a 14-28 freewheel and this helps a ton!
@@PedalWithPower Thank you again, after reading lots of good reviews about the lectric 2.0 which seems like a very good option to buy still in the hunting "mode" to buy one, I do like the look and everything but also like the extra features of the Enwe EP 2 Pro (LIke nice rims, 4" tires, and a bigger battery)
I've had my Lectric 2.0 for a few days now. For the small sample size of climbing a very steep hill I had the PA on #1 & gear #1 while pedaling the whole time, I had No issue with the bike regarding power. So far I've the bike for exactly Seven days 6.5 miles & pedaling @ 99% of the time. So my point is for those people with ebike to maximize the power of the bike You have to help the motor by pedaling at least 50%.
Good job. Makes me appreciate the thru-axles and mid-drive motor on my Trek Allant. I'm thinking about a 20" e-bike and the XPremium interests me. I'm not.a fan of hub motors and cadence sensors.
I've got to say I'm not an experienced bike technician but.. I recently had to take my e-bike wheel off to BLEED my hydraulic brakes.. I used this as a reference cuz I have a bike stand too. And I'm going to be doing me 11 through 32 speed upgrade.. I kind of had no choice to do it the way you're doing it because the nature of bleeding the brakes can't flip the bike over. But in general it is SOOOOOOO much easier to take that wheel off and put it back on with the bike flipped up on its back.. You just adjust the seat accordingly for the best balance. Man trying to get that wheel back on with the chain was a pain in the ass!!! It was so difficult for me because of the gravity issue It's backwards The wheels fighting against you. I actually had to take the chain off the bike with my tool to put the wheel back on. It's definitely not a good time to make a mistake with that wheel, those pins and the cable coming out of the wheel. The bike stand is great for a lot of different things but for taking that back wheel off and putting it back on like the way you are doing it is very difficult especially if you not very very experienced. Looks like you said you work for a bike shop so you're used to it probably. For a person who buys that bike stand and tries what you're doing it's going to be a real pain in the ass.. Lesson learned for me..
This is how bike mod vids should be done. A thorough explanation as to why it would be helpful plus easily understood directions and a comparison ride showing before and after the mod. Thanks for the links to the freewheel and tool as well. How do you find that bike stand for a heavier ebike? it looked like it was pretty stable up there, also do you ever take the bike on gravel or logging-type roads? was wondering how those 3" tires take that type of riding.
Wish I'd of found your channel months ago 😅 I got a gogo best gf600 and first I mucked up the computer trying to unlock the 40km top speed and then it was the derailleur lol managed to get the gears some what shifting again about to loose the will to live
I was waiting to see if it would be worth messing with, we have hills here. On flat ground my feet kick off the pedals at 22mph. I like that in lower gears you say the motor doesn't work so hard as well. I'm gonna give it a try! I already know that my wife will say, Don't touch mine!
Hey Chris, I really appreciate all your videos, you sir are amazing! Quick question in regards to the freewheel....Would a 14-34 yield similar performance results? Thanks in advance!
Your channel has so much value for XP owners I am posting some of your how to direct links on my channel, with your approval of course. Please let me know if ok or not. Thanks again.
Yeah, a little bit. Anytime you switch your gears up, there will be some adjustments. But I made a separate video for that if you need it -- czcams.com/video/XruQZWMFy9k/video.html
I noticed that you left the spacer in place, behind the new freewheel without any issues. I watched another CZcams video that said it needs to be removed for proper alignment with the derailleur.
Mine worked fine leaving it in. I have ridden another 150 miles on it since and still works. You may need to adjust your rear derailleur a little either way. Here is how -- czcams.com/video/XruQZWMFy9k/video.html
So can I follow your link and order the 11-28 freewheel choice instead of the 11-34? I'm in flat land Florida where I'll never need that stump-puller 34 tooth gear. Your explanations are simpler and clearer than most and the only thing I'd like to see is a bit more light when you're working. You're becoming my favorite Lectric 'how to' guy.
Thanks for the kind words. Yeah, just get the 11-28 if you don't need the climbing gear. I'm getting the lighting better. Check out the latest Tannus Install video and tell me what you think. I'm trying to get better angles and lighting. Not just a camera strapped to my chest 😁
Hi Chris, love your tutorials. I'm in the UK with an Eovolt Afternoon 20 (assistance to 15.5mph), like you I can pedal beyond the feel of the bikes gearing. Would your freewheel swap over work for that bike also?
Hello Chris! Again I think you have some of the best videos on how to work with the Lectric bikes. Thanks! Quick question.... I am looking for the ultimate comfort saddle. My hind end gets really sore when riding. I don't ride bikes much until now and I just want my first 10 miles on my new XP 2.0. But wow...was I sore afterwards! It's nothing to do with the bike because I'd be sore after riding 10 miles on any pedal bike. Rather than testing out dozens of saddles, I just wondered if you had any suggestions to point me in the direction to maybe the most comfortable saddle you're aware of. My writing style is simply going to be cruising around back roads but no mountain bike style riding. I got the comfort package with my XP 2.0 but I'm thinking I still need a more comfortable seat. Any thoughts? Thank you so very much.
In four other videos the person removed the last large washer so that the biggest gear had the same standoff as the factory hub otherwise the chain was too off center. Did you notice this issue?
Really appreciate your instructional videos. What kind of mount are you using for your camera when you do the disassembly? I already have the new derailleur to do that mod. My bike is a Freedare Saiga however. I'm assuming most these bikes use the same components. Will this 11/34 freewheel work on this bike as well? I checked and it's running the Shimano MF-TZ500-7 and it is 14/28. Also, the Freedare only uses 3 pedal assist modes, not five. Level 3 does get it to 28mph pretty quickly, but I get that "ghost pedal" sensation at higher speeds. Thanks again!
Thanks for the info.I did have one question,Did you remove the back shim or leave it on?I see 2 other videos and they took the shim out with the new freewheel.
I followed your instructions, but my bike frame had a death grip on the rear wheel. Instead of hanging my bike, I flipped it upside down using some Handlebar Jacks, but once I removed those two screws and loosened the 18mm nuts, the rear wheel would not slide out. Finally, after much yanking, cussing and cogitating, I righted the bike and slid a weighted barbell thru the wheel and popped it out. I hope the rest is easier.
Sometimes that rear wheel is really jammed in there. Check the rear dropouts, you may need to file them open a tiny bit or the the rear of your frame could be slightly bent. Hope it goes back in easier. Working on budget bikes has lots of quality control issues like that.
DUUUUUUDE I just got done with a test ride after doing this replacement and holy fuck it’s so much better, why on earth they don’t ship with this freewheel is beyond me, thanks so much for the suggestion and tutorial. Edit: also I’ll add that I got the 11-34 linked in desc, re-watching the end, I see that you say that you don’t recommend going up to the 34, and my test ride that I just got done with, all of the gears changed pretty smoothly. It skips from 6th to 7th, but I think that’s more my gear switch than anything. The bike has fallen over a few times and it broke, but all of the other gears seem to change very well. Tested both 1st and 7th and it seems to stay in both pretty well so we’ll see how it goes
It makes a big difference! The 34 works fine, it's just a bit of a stretch for the Tourney rear derailleur. I'll have a video up soon on upgrading the rear derailleur to the Shimano Acera.
I’m new to all this. When you are using the easiest gear to pedal in what number is that 1-7 ? And with that number how many teeth is it riding on? Your videos you say low get high gear when shifting but stating what number you are on would help beginners. Thanks
Yes, the big issue with doing that is that the chainring is not replaceable. It is molded to the crank. You would have to find a whole new crank that fits. It's much easier, and cheaper, to replace the freewheel. I've had this new freewheel on my bike now for many miles and it works great! I can easily cruise at about 25mph and still feel the gears engaging up to 28mph.
i bought the freewheel and socket from amazon. i replaced the free wheel and now when i shift to 1 st gear the chain travels over the freewheel and gets stuck..... i pluged the connector together arrow to arrow and i have no power to the motor..
Just ordered the freewheel and removal tool. Somehow my derailleur got bent couldn't adjust the gears, they kept jumping in 5th gear and would go to gear 1. Getting a new one at the bike shop. After they get adjusted, just swap this out, easy no adjustments?
Thanks for the video, you write 7 Speed Freewheel 11-32 tooth, on the Am site my choices are 11-28t-7spd or 11-34t-7spd? Also I didn't see the answer about taking out the spacer.
Yep, 7 speed,11-32 tooth, here's the link -- amzn.to/3uH850T. Yes, leave the spacer in. I've been riding with the spacer still on for over 50 miles now, works great. You may need to adjust your rear derailleur and I made a video for that. 👍
There seems to be an 11-32 at your Amazon link now. Is that updated recently and should we get that? Or is that the one where they've been sending the cassette? I'm not sure how much 32 vs 34 matters anyway?
Watching your video there is one thing I think you did not mention that's worth mentioning. This could definitely affect how the derailleur works. On these XP bikes with the Shimano 7 speed there is a metal shim That's under the gears that you take off.. From what I understand you're supposed to take that shim out because if you don't when you put the new gear on 11 through 34 or 11 through 32. The guilty pushed forward more therefore The crank gear and the 11 on the 11 - 32 won't be lined up together.. You can easily test this. By putting them flat on the surface without the shim and with the shim under the old Shimano gears. You will see that with the shim under the Shimano gears side by side with the new gears they are identical with. If you take that shim and you put it underneath the new gear it's going to stick out too much.. In other words the new gears kind of have the shim already built in.. I noticed this by watching ( jemiah McIntosh version of what you're doing with the same XP 2.0 bike. ) He talks about that shim.. I noticed you replace the derailleur maybe that's one reason why you thought you needed to because you did not take that shim out. I don't know that's just some food for thought and constructive criticism. Thanks again for your video It helped me out a lot!!
@@PedalWithPower Yes but if you wanted to be lined up just like the other one The shim should not be there. Making the derailleur work harder than it has to. Not to mention premature chain wear.. ;)
@@thefix-itguyreviewer8151 You're correct, J.McIntosh takes it out - but I also believe he was working on a 1.0 - perhaps I'm wrong but there seems to be some circumstantial evidence to support that - the spacers J.M. shows and, the notch on the cable side of the hub are different than the 2.0 PWP was working on - or at least it looks that way to me. Seems I still screwed it up - got everything back together, looks correct to me - but I can't rotate it.😮💨
Thank Miguel! My guess as to why it didn't just come this way is that the Drift maniac 11-34t freewheel is kind of rare to get that range in a freewheel. Most bike companies would not be able to source the amount of freewheels needed to "spec" a bike out for a manufacturing plant to build them up say, 100,000 bikes. At least it's an easy swap and makes the bike far better to ride!👍
On my Xpedition Cargo when its fully charged i can ghost pedal to 33mph based on the display. But if I push to go even faster it does not respond. I wish that I could just get the bike turned just like i would with a car and changing hardware for performance increases would be the last step.
reinstalling the gear side, you did it differently than when you took it off. Taking it off, the nut was against the protector. Putting it back on, you put the washer under the nut. Otherwise great video
Makes ya wonder why they didn't make it like that in the first place. Thinking of taking advantage of this sale right now, but wonder what the improvements will be on the 3.0... and if should I wait.
The 2 tabs on the axle, with the holes for the 4mm bolts that you removed, should both be pointing up and slightly towards the rear of the bike. So that they will line back up with the threaded holes on the frame, just above the dropouts. Getting the rear wheel back in is the most challenging part.
Question about your bike stand, first how hard was it to lift up? Second, did you remove the battery to make the bike lighter to lift up? Did you sure the seat post to anchor the bike on the stand?
It's pretty heavy to lift. I don't remove the battery, but that would make it a little lighter. Definitely make sure your seatpost is snug. I'll add a video soon showing how to use the bike stand 👍
Yeah, this mod would be so much easier if you just flipped the bike upside down. No holding the wheel up with your hand. Let gravity do that for you. I just did this tire repair myself tonight.
Excellent video! Makes you wonder why Lectric doesn't deliver the bike with a 11-32 tooth freewheel to begin with. Maybe in flat cities without hills the 28 tooth low gear is fine, but there is no excuse for a 14 tooth high gear on a bike that can go 28 mph.
My bike don't go over 20mph. It is to go about 22. Also I'd be lucky to get about 20 miles distance on a charge and book says I should be able to get 45 approximately. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thx in advance.
I watched in another video, that the spacer behind the old freewheel had to come off before installing the new freewheel. Apparently there’s an issue with the derailer not aligning with the new wheel. Are you having any issues?
My freewheel fit just fine with the spacer. I've been out riding it today and can really keep it up around 25pmh steadily. It may depend on which freewheel you get. Different freewheels can have more mounting threads. The one I linked to from Drift Maniac, works with the spacer. You still need to slightly adjust your rear derailleur I little.
If you wanted to upgrade to an 8 speed freewheel, you would need to remove that back spacer for sure. You'd also need an 8 speed shifter, but it can be done.
So you don't have to readjust the Derailleur after changing out the freewheel? recently bought a lightly used, 21 miles Lectric XP Extended range duel battery for 700 bucks. It's in the shop right now cause the Derailleur got out of adjustment a bit after a 100 miles, and I monkeyed with it and made it worse!
I find that mine takes forever to get up to speed (on the start, from zero to 5 mph say) It reacts like a 350 watt motor, not 500 ) If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it.
Some folks may be ordering a cassette instead of a freewheel. They look the same but this ebike will not take a cassette! Make sure you are getting a Freewheel and it will be the 11-34 tooth. The 11-32 tooth is no longer available and Amazon was linking to the cassette. The link is correct now to the 7 speed, 11-34 tooth freewheel! - amzn.to/3wYWa1k
Here is a video explaining the differences between a Freewheel and a Cassette. - czcams.com/video/23vOT3iJTIc/video.html
Sorry for any confusion, if you receive a cassette, you'll need to return it and get the freewheel.
You say at the 19:00 mark that the derailleur can’t handle the 34, but mention using it now above. I live in a very hilly area and need the low gear for climbing and the high gear to be able to pedal at class 3 speeds. Will the 34 work or not? I too ran into the issue mentioned in the comment and mistakenly ordered a cassette instead of the freewheel since your old link went to the 34. I knew the difference but missed that it showed me a cassette when looking for a freewheel.
@@killercanary95GT Sorry about the cassette/freewheel confusion. I tried to update that as soon as I could.
As for the derailleur, the stock Tourney one will still work with the 34t, it's just a very budget Shimano derailleur and if you know you will be using the low (34t) gear a lot, I would recommend upgrading it for the long term.
I would get the Shimano Acera rear derailleur -- amzn.to/397yjT7.
It is much better quality and will handle the 34t gear easier and last far longer.
In order for these companies to keep the price of these bikes as low as they are, they have to cut some corners. (like using budget components)
I'll add a video soon on how to install it.
@@PedalWithPower thanks so much for the quick response! I just ordered the 11-34 and will install it this week. I am looking forward to your video on the tourney install! I think the 34 will be ideal for some of the very steep hills I have to climb around me as the stock setup has me pedaling at max effort to climb them now in 1st gear with pedal assist on max.
@@killercanary95GT Awesome! But it will be the Acera install and ditching the Tourney. I'll have it up this week! 👍
What would be the best size for a new crank wheel
Jus upgraded today my mechanic installed the new freewheel that you put in the link my mechanic charged me 90$ instaling he also put slime in both tires and tuned everything up and put new pedal on for me great thsnks
Nice job. Thanks for taking the time to provide all the detail!
Great job ! With the walking through of the upgrade! Very clear and concise
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
Thanks, that was a very comprehensive video. I have a Mars HeyBike, it looks the same, I'm getting new tires and now while I'm changing them it looks like a great time to upgrade the stroke. Thanks again for the lesson.
This is excellent! Thanks!
Excellent !..... the best vid on the subject.....well done.....thank you !!
Excellent video
Thank you so much
I plan to get two xp 2.0s for the wife and I and will defenitely replace the gearing like you showed 👍👍
great upgrade thanks
I’ll be incorporating your freewheel change,as well as turning the steering post around. Thanks for the wonderfull tips!
You're welcome Denis, glad it helped 👍
Thanks for the great step by step instructions, I feel this is a mod I could do.
You're welcome, you can do it. It's pretty simple, hardest part is re-installing the rear wheel. 👍
another great tips video thank you!!
Glad you like them!
Great advice 👍👍
Best explanation on CZcams.
Love the upgrade, bought one immediately. I felt the bike was still a decent workout in my area until I changed the speed to 28MPH, glad to see there is an upgradable gear that works with the bike to fix the ratio!
Yep, this fixes it! Easy to install and makes the bike fly! 👍
Thanks for sharing those video
fantastic and informative video friend!
Thank you very much!
Best video on the freewheel change I have seen. Thanks for taking the time to go over the spacer placement.
Hope it helps! It's pretty easy to do. The biggest challenge is putting the wheel back on the bike.
Nice !! Thank you: ) Good Job
Thanks for ur videos u got the best ones.
Sir that was an excellent video. I bought all of the same items you listed on here from Amazon. I’m in the process of installing them now. I needed to watch your video one more time to make sure I didn’t miss anything. Thank you very much for posting this. 👍👏
Thanks George! This upgrade makes this bike far more efficient 👍
I wrote to Lectric Bikes and recommended they use that Freewheel from the start.
Awesome video !
Much appreciated. I'm trying to work on better camera angles for doing mechanical work. Hope it helps!
Awesome tutorial sir
Great informative video
Thanks Albert!
Nice job I live in the smoky mountains so super low gear is a must
Excellent tutorial! Thanks.
No problem Ron 👍 This makes a big difference in how this bike rides! I'm loving it
@@PedalWithPower forgot to ask, didn’t you need to add a link or two to the chain with the new freewheel 34tooth??
@@ronb9901 Great Question, no it still reaches.
Thank you for the video.
You bet! Thanks John
i have done a far amount of my own car work but i always like watching a video on something i have not tried like changing the freewheel of my lectric ebike i just ordered so thanks for the nice video i might change it but ill first ride the bike and see how it feels again thanks for the clear how to video
That's awesome! I will be adding a couple of videos soon about how to adjust the rear derailleur and the brakes. When you re-install the rear wheel you almost always have to adjust rear brake, and adding the new freewheel, you may need to adjust the derailleur a little bit.
I'll try to get those tutorials up as soon as I can. Both adjustments can be tricky.
Also, I've been riding around on the new freewheel for the last 2 days and it is a HUGE improvement, well worth it!!
This upgrade is Soo Cool
It makes a big difference!
Chris
Excellent Video. This evening I installed a Drift Maniac 11-34 7 speed freewheeliing sprocket on my several year old lectric 2.0 (no fancy front fork and 4 " wheels). Everything went amazingly well. One difference from what you did was my removal of the spacer to make the sprocket closer to the hub. I see you didn't do that. After putting everything back together all the gears worked except for the low gear sprocket. The stock derailure hits the side of the new lower gear and is apparently unable to engage the teeth. when I manually place the chain onto the low sprocket by moving the derailure arm away from the gears, the chain doesn't sit right and makes intense grinding noises. Once on the low gear sprocket I'm not able to shift into higher gears.
I see in a subsequent video you replace the derailure mechanism and mention it solves some of the problems with the 11-34 set up when using stock equipment. You don't go into detail about the problems.
Questions: 1. I assume the derailure in this video is the stock set up. Were you able to make it work? If so, do you think my removal of the one washer/spacer is causing my problems?
2. Do you think replacing the stock derailure will solve the problem. I gather the new one will have to somehow sit lower so as not to hit the side of the sprocket.
Thanks..
Thanks for the great video, I did it and much nicer on the hills. It was easy thanks to your video. I did it with the bike upside down , I think that was easier.
I just did this exact mod but 11-28 freewheel on my Coswheel T20. I’ve never used the 28t gear as it’s reasonably flat. I upgraded to the DNP 11-28 freewheel, but I had to take the Shimano spacer off the hub when I removed the freewheel as the new one sat out further than the original. I notice you left yours on. I also upgraded to Juin Tech hydraulic piston, mechanical actuated brake calliper. Fantastic upgrade to do as the brakes now work from both sides! No hesitation or uncertainty.
As a note. The Park tool is the ONLY tool that would fit over my axle. I had one on order but stupidly bought a local one while I was waiting. I modified the local tool with a dremel without issue, but wish I had just waited.
Oh, and I am upgrading the chainring to 54t….. so I may end up ordering a 11-32 for the rear…
Nice Rudolph, you're rockin' that upgrades. I looked into the Juin brakes, good to know they are awesome. I don't have money for those right now, but maybe in the future.
Change the size of your tire in the p.o.6 setting to 22 inches and ull be able to get to 28 mph with ease
New subscriber ...great tutorial 🔥
Thanks for subscribing Alex! Much appreciated 👍
Thanks
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I installed the 11-34 on my Lectric 2.0 as well, and I was ghost peddling like you at 26-27mph. I sold the bike 6 months ago but kept the 11-34 freewheel.
A week ago I bought a Senada, "Drifter". It's basically the same bike frame, and electronics, but it has the 4" fat tires. So I put the 11-34 freewheel on this bike, and guess what? No more ghost peddling. I've had the bike just over 30mph, and with fifth mechanical gear.
The other note worthy difference between the bikes is, is that Senada programmed the controller differently in that; PAS levels with the throttle are governed to the assist level you are in. With the Lectric bike, while in PAS1 and I gave it full throttle the bike would go to 20mph!
When I ride hills as you demonstrated I use PAS1 and the 34 tooth ring on the freewheel, but then again I'm retired and have all day. I guess I just feel the need to pamper that controller.
Happy cycling, take care, be safe...
How did you sell it for ?
I was thinking of selling mine and getting something better
I have the xp2.0 with long range battery and regular battery with blue waterproof pannier bag with 2 comfort seats and 2 regular seat and 1 Xtra 20x3
Great tutorial video!!! Good job Chris and very informative and helpful videos! Can you do this upgrades with other similar models like Engwe EP 2?
Thank you very much! This upgrade will work on any ebike with a 7 speed freewheel.
Just count the teeth on your smallest and biggest cogs (gears) on your current freewheel to make sure you are actually improving your gear range.
If you already have an 11-32 tooth freewheel, then this won't help. The Lectric XP comes with a 14-28 freewheel and this helps a ton!
@@PedalWithPower Thank you again, after reading lots of good reviews about the lectric 2.0 which seems like a very good option to buy still in the hunting "mode" to buy one, I do like the look and everything but also like the extra features of the Enwe EP 2 Pro (LIke nice rims, 4" tires, and a bigger battery)
I hear ya, I just ordered the new RadExpand 5, so I will be doing videos and tests of that one soon!
@@PedalWithPower maybe I’ll wait for that review and see which you prefer….
I've had my Lectric 2.0 for a few days now. For the small sample size of climbing a very steep hill I had the PA on #1 & gear #1 while pedaling the whole time, I had No issue with the bike regarding power. So far I've the bike for exactly Seven days 6.5 miles & pedaling @ 99% of the time. So my point is for those people with ebike to maximize the power of the bike You have to help the motor by pedaling at least 50%.
Good job. Makes me appreciate the thru-axles and mid-drive motor on my Trek Allant. I'm thinking about a 20" e-bike and the XPremium interests me. I'm not.a fan of hub motors and cadence sensors.
I've got to say I'm not an experienced bike technician but..
I recently had to take my e-bike wheel off to BLEED my hydraulic brakes..
I used this as a reference cuz I have a bike stand too. And I'm going to be doing me 11 through 32 speed upgrade..
I kind of had no choice to do it the way you're doing it because the nature of bleeding the brakes can't flip the bike over.
But in general it is SOOOOOOO much easier to take that wheel off and put it back on with the bike flipped up on its back.. You just adjust the seat accordingly for the best balance.
Man trying to get that wheel back on with the chain was a pain in the ass!!! It was so difficult for me because of the gravity issue It's backwards The wheels fighting against you. I actually had to take the chain off the bike with my tool to put the wheel back on.
It's definitely not a good time to make a mistake with that wheel, those pins and the cable coming out of the wheel.
The bike stand is great for a lot of different things but for taking that back wheel off and putting it back on like the way you are doing it is very difficult especially if you not very very experienced.
Looks like you said you work for a bike shop so you're used to it probably.
For a person who buys that bike stand and tries what you're doing it's going to be a real pain in the ass..
Lesson learned for me..
This is how bike mod vids should be done. A thorough explanation as to why it would be helpful plus easily understood directions and a comparison ride showing before and after the mod. Thanks for the links to the freewheel and tool as well. How do you find that bike stand for a heavier ebike? it looked like it was pretty stable up there, also do you ever take the bike on gravel or logging-type roads? was wondering how those 3" tires take that type of riding.
this is an older comment but I've got an XP2 and it copes fine with gravel roads. logging roads are a little rough but a suspension seat helps heavily
Yes!
Good price-value ratio
Wish I'd of found your channel months ago 😅 I got a gogo best gf600 and first I mucked up the computer trying to unlock the 40km top speed and then it was the derailleur lol managed to get the gears some what shifting again about to loose the will to live
I'm holding for the new XP premium for the mid drive and double battery. Hope you consider that one as well for future content 🍻
I am planning on getting that one for a tutorial playlist when I can afford it.
I was waiting to see if it would be worth messing with, we have hills here. On flat ground my feet kick off the pedals at 22mph. I like that in lower gears you say the motor doesn't work so hard as well. I'm gonna give it a try! I already know that my wife will say, Don't touch mine!
I topped out around 22mph pedaling too, before upgrading the freewheel. Now I can pedal till about 27mph, and hills are a lot easier to pedal up.
Hey Chris, I really appreciate all your videos, you sir are amazing!
Quick question in regards to the freewheel....Would a 14-34 yield similar performance results?
Thanks in advance!
another awesome video. I am curious what the ft-lb is on those 18mm bolts. EDIT: found someone who mentions 30 ft-lbs or 40 N-m
Your channel has so much value for XP owners I am posting some of your how to direct links on my channel, with your approval of course. Please let me know if ok or not. Thanks again.
Thanks, you can share with anyone you think it help!
great instructional video, question did you have to adjust your derailleur for the new freewheel?
Yeah, a little bit. Anytime you switch your gears up, there will be some adjustments. But I made a separate video for that if you need it -- czcams.com/video/XruQZWMFy9k/video.html
Great video! 12:31 hehe
😁
He said deez nuts😂these vids are so helpful!!
I noticed that you left the spacer in place, behind the new freewheel without any issues. I watched another CZcams video that said it needs to be removed for proper alignment with the derailleur.
Mine worked fine leaving it in. I have ridden another 150 miles on it since and still works. You may need to adjust your rear derailleur a little either way. Here is how -- czcams.com/video/XruQZWMFy9k/video.html
So can I follow your link and order the 11-28 freewheel choice instead of the 11-34? I'm in flat land Florida where I'll never need that stump-puller 34 tooth gear. Your explanations are simpler and clearer than most and the only thing I'd like to see is a bit more light when you're working. You're becoming my favorite Lectric 'how to' guy.
Thanks for the kind words. Yeah, just get the 11-28 if you don't need the climbing gear. I'm getting the lighting better. Check out the latest Tannus Install video and tell me what you think. I'm trying to get better angles and lighting. Not just a camera strapped to my chest 😁
Hi Chris, love your tutorials. I'm in the UK with an Eovolt Afternoon 20 (assistance to 15.5mph), like you I can pedal beyond the feel of the bikes gearing. Would your freewheel swap over work for that bike also?
you should put some BMX bars on that bad boy there is a video on CZcams fir your bike. thanks for the video.
Hello Chris! Again I think you have some of the best videos on how to work with the Lectric bikes. Thanks! Quick question.... I am looking for the ultimate comfort saddle. My hind end gets really sore when riding. I don't ride bikes much until now and I just want my first 10 miles on my new XP 2.0. But wow...was I sore afterwards! It's nothing to do with the bike because I'd be sore after riding 10 miles on any pedal bike. Rather than testing out dozens of saddles, I just wondered if you had any suggestions to point me in the direction to maybe the most comfortable saddle you're aware of. My writing style is simply going to be cruising around back roads but no mountain bike style riding. I got the comfort package with my XP 2.0 but I'm thinking I still need a more comfortable seat. Any thoughts? Thank you so very much.
look into cloud 9 bike seats. They will have what you are looking for
Dont need a new chain to accommodate the low gear going from 28 to a 34? seems like a big difference
In four other videos the person removed the last large washer so that the biggest gear had the same standoff as the factory hub otherwise the chain was too off center. Did you notice this issue?
Hi Craig, I just slightly readjusted the derailleur and been riding it ever since with no issues.
Really appreciate your instructional videos. What kind of mount are you using for your camera when you do the disassembly? I already have the new derailleur to do that mod. My bike is a Freedare Saiga however. I'm assuming most these bikes use the same components. Will this 11/34 freewheel work on this bike as well? I checked and it's running the Shimano MF-TZ500-7 and it is 14/28. Also, the Freedare only uses 3 pedal assist modes, not five. Level 3 does get it to 28mph pretty quickly, but I get that "ghost pedal" sensation at higher speeds. Thanks again!
Thanks for the info.I did have one question,Did you remove the back shim or leave it on?I see 2 other videos and they took the shim out with the new freewheel.
I followed your instructions, but my bike frame had a death grip on the rear wheel. Instead of hanging my bike, I flipped it upside down using some Handlebar Jacks, but once I removed those two screws and loosened the 18mm nuts, the rear wheel would not slide out. Finally, after much yanking, cussing and cogitating, I righted the bike and slid a weighted barbell thru the wheel and popped it out. I hope the rest is easier.
Sometimes that rear wheel is really jammed in there. Check the rear dropouts, you may need to file them open a tiny bit or the the rear of your frame could be slightly bent. Hope it goes back in easier. Working on budget bikes has lots of quality control issues like that.
I've had to take a hammer to the axle bolts on some of these and bang the wheel out.
DUUUUUUDE I just got done with a test ride after doing this replacement and holy fuck it’s so much better, why on earth they don’t ship with this freewheel is beyond me, thanks so much for the suggestion and tutorial.
Edit: also I’ll add that I got the 11-34 linked in desc, re-watching the end, I see that you say that you don’t recommend going up to the 34, and my test ride that I just got done with, all of the gears changed pretty smoothly. It skips from 6th to 7th, but I think that’s more my gear switch than anything. The bike has fallen over a few times and it broke, but all of the other gears seem to change very well. Tested both 1st and 7th and it seems to stay in both pretty well so we’ll see how it goes
It makes a big difference! The 34 works fine, it's just a bit of a stretch for the Tourney rear derailleur. I'll have a video up soon on upgrading the rear derailleur to the Shimano Acera.
How often should i change the Freewheel
I need the wiring diagram for this bike. I want to put a kill switch in from the ignition to the battery.
I’m new to all this. When you are using the easiest gear to pedal in what number is that 1-7 ? And with that number how many teeth is it riding on? Your videos you say low get high gear when shifting but stating what number you are on would help beginners. Thanks
Curious if you have given any thought to changing the chain ring to get even more top speed, and if so what size you would recommend?
Yes, the big issue with doing that is that the chainring is not replaceable. It is molded to the crank. You would have to find a whole new crank that fits.
It's much easier, and cheaper, to replace the freewheel.
I've had this new freewheel on my bike now for many miles and it works great! I can easily cruise at about 25mph and still feel the gears engaging up to 28mph.
Would getting a higher tooth front sprocket make it go faster?
Wowowow
i bought the freewheel and socket from amazon. i replaced the free wheel and now when i shift to 1 st gear the chain travels over the freewheel and gets stuck..... i pluged the connector together arrow to arrow and i have no power to the motor..
How does it run just using the motor with that on?
Just ordered the freewheel and removal tool. Somehow my derailleur got bent couldn't adjust the gears, they kept jumping in 5th gear and would go to gear 1. Getting a new one at the bike shop. After they get adjusted, just swap this out, easy no adjustments?
Thanks for the video, you write 7 Speed Freewheel 11-32 tooth, on the Am site my choices are 11-28t-7spd or 11-34t-7spd? Also I didn't see the answer about taking out the spacer.
Yep, 7 speed,11-32 tooth, here's the link -- amzn.to/3uH850T. Yes, leave the spacer in. I've been riding with the spacer still on for over 50 miles now, works great. You may need to adjust your rear derailleur and I made a video for that. 👍
There seems to be an 11-32 at your Amazon link now. Is that updated recently and should we get that? Or is that the one where they've been sending the cassette? I'm not sure how much 32 vs 34 matters anyway?
Hi Chris, is there a shimano or black version of this that you would recommend as well?
Watching your video there is one thing I think you did not mention that's worth mentioning. This could definitely affect how the derailleur works.
On these XP bikes with the Shimano 7 speed there is a metal shim That's under the gears that you take off..
From what I understand you're supposed to take that shim out because if you don't when you put the new gear on 11 through 34 or 11 through 32. The guilty pushed forward more therefore The crank gear and the 11 on the 11 - 32 won't be lined up together..
You can easily test this. By putting them flat on the surface without the shim and with the shim under the old Shimano gears.
You will see that with the shim under the Shimano gears side by side with the new gears they are identical with.
If you take that shim and you put it underneath the new gear it's going to stick out too much..
In other words the new gears kind of have the shim already built in..
I noticed this by watching ( jemiah McIntosh version of what you're doing with the same XP 2.0 bike. ) He talks about that shim..
I noticed you replace the derailleur maybe that's one reason why you thought you needed to because you did not take that shim out.
I don't know that's just some food for thought and constructive criticism.
Thanks again for your video It helped me out a lot!!
Mine's been just fine with the shim in. But you can take it out too. Just a derailleur adjustment
@@PedalWithPower Yes but if you wanted to be lined up just like the other one The shim should not be there. Making the derailleur work harder than it has to. Not to mention premature chain wear..
;)
@@thefix-itguyreviewer8151 You're correct, J.McIntosh takes it out - but I also believe he was working on a 1.0 - perhaps I'm wrong but there seems to be some circumstantial evidence to support that - the spacers J.M. shows and, the notch on the cable side of the hub are different than the 2.0 PWP was working on - or at least it looks that way to me.
Seems I still screwed it up - got everything back together, looks correct to me - but I can't rotate it.😮💨
I have been looking for a quick release for the baskets. Want to take them on and off for transporting. Do you know of anything?
Why didnt they go with this as the default choice? Great video btw.. 👌
Thank Miguel! My guess as to why it didn't just come this way is that the Drift maniac 11-34t freewheel is kind of rare to get that range in a freewheel. Most bike companies would not be able to source the amount of freewheels needed to "spec" a bike out for a manufacturing plant to build them up say, 100,000 bikes.
At least it's an easy swap and makes the bike far better to ride!👍
On my Xpedition Cargo when its fully charged i can ghost pedal to 33mph based on the display. But if I push to go even faster it does not respond. I wish that I could just get the bike turned just like i would with a car and changing hardware for performance increases would be the last step.
Is that a quad lock for your phone attachment?
reinstalling the gear side, you did it differently than when you took it off. Taking it off, the nut was against the protector. Putting it back on, you put the washer under the nut. Otherwise great video
Makes ya wonder why they didn't make it like that in the first place.
Thinking of taking advantage of this sale right now, but wonder what the improvements will be on the 3.0... and if should I wait.
The 3.0 comes with an 11-28 freewheel
@@PedalWithPower Too late. :)
Will this upgrade also work on the XPremium with the mid-drive motor?
Can this upgrade be done on the XP midrange?
Hi, so Amazon is selling 11-28T, 11-32T, & 11-34T. Can you please tell me what’s the difference so I know which one to purchase?
For me it’s stuck on 032 and won’t let me change it to 100 what do I do?
How do you make sure the rear wheel is aligned properly after you remove it?
Thanks
The 2 tabs on the axle, with the holes for the 4mm bolts that you removed, should both be pointing up and slightly towards the rear of the bike. So that they will line back up with the threaded holes on the frame, just above the dropouts.
Getting the rear wheel back in is the most challenging part.
are all freewheels the same hub fit? Also, with the higher speeds, do you think upgrading the disc brakes should be next?
Yep, I have videos on how to do it
has it affected the miles you get out of your battery???
Question about your bike stand, first how hard was it to lift up? Second, did you remove the battery to make the bike lighter to lift up? Did you sure the seat post to anchor the bike on the stand?
It's pretty heavy to lift. I don't remove the battery, but that would make it a little lighter. Definitely make sure your seatpost is snug.
I'll add a video soon showing how to use the bike stand 👍
@@PedalWithPower that would be nice. My bike stand is the ParkTool PCS 10.3
Yeah, this mod would be so much easier if you just flipped the bike upside down. No holding the wheel up with your hand. Let gravity do that for you. I just did this tire repair myself tonight.
Is it normal for max speed go low after weeks of using with child seat?
Excellent video! Makes you wonder why Lectric doesn't deliver the bike with a 11-32 tooth freewheel to begin with. Maybe in flat cities without hills the 28 tooth low gear is fine, but there is no excuse for a 14 tooth high gear on a bike that can go 28 mph.
My bike don't go over 20mph. It is to go about 22. Also I'd be lucky to get about 20 miles distance on a charge and book says I should be able to get 45 approximately. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thx in advance.
Does the upgraded freewheel help the XP 2.0 climb hills better in throttle only?
No it won't change how the throttle works
I watched in another video, that the spacer behind the old freewheel had to come off before installing the new freewheel. Apparently there’s an issue with the derailer not aligning with the new wheel. Are you having any issues?
My freewheel fit just fine with the spacer. I've been out riding it today and can really keep it up around 25pmh steadily. It may depend on which freewheel you get. Different freewheels can have more mounting threads. The one I linked to from Drift Maniac, works with the spacer. You still need to slightly adjust your rear derailleur I little.
If you wanted to upgrade to an 8 speed freewheel, you would need to remove that back spacer for sure. You'd also need an 8 speed shifter, but it can be done.
Will this work on the 3.0?
Since you're actually engaging the gears while pedaling now at top speed, would this fix presumably increase battery life as well?
It will help a bit, no a ton, but some
So you don't have to readjust the Derailleur after changing out the freewheel? recently bought a lightly used, 21 miles Lectric XP Extended range duel battery for 700 bucks. It's in the shop right now cause the Derailleur got out of adjustment a bit after a 100 miles, and I monkeyed with it and made it worse!
I find that mine takes forever to get up to speed (on the start, from zero to 5 mph say) It reacts like a 350 watt motor, not 500 ) If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it.