Plywood Shelves with steel uprights and brackets.
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- čas přidán 27. 04. 2017
- Hi everyone. Here ’s a quick little job I did this week for neighbours of mine, Duo, a design and architecture practice. Just a quick set of plywood shelves on what I had bought as Spur brackets. It was fun to do something simple, and it wasn’t without its challenges, and just to cap it all it turns out that the brackets and uprights I bought were not the quality British made Spur brand I had asked for. That is a real pity: you can make you sure you get the genuine thing by using the link below. Anyhoo, this is it from start to finish - enjoy!
www.duo-architecture.co.uk
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Stuff in this video:-
Spur Wall Mounted shelving SpurShelving.co.uk/s.aspx?aw=... (US [closetmaid]: amzn.to/2p60BUY)
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Seriously, gear doesn’t matter
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Love your attention to detail even on simple things. Love your videos.
+Billy Tsik Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I think it is funny when you introduce yourself you wobble your head side-to-side like your mocking yourself for being pretentious. Lol
Dude I'm only 35 seconds into this video. What on earth gives you the right to be this charismatic
Old vid - it gets better! 😂😂 And thanks! 👍
Impressed with the plywood you used, no voids between the layers.
Yes, it's a nice quality Birch ply from my local timber yard, they don't seem to stock much in the way of cheap & nasty...
Another video, another set of ' I'll-need-to-remember-thats ' filed away for use during my house build. I particularly appreciate the level of attention to detail: you bother. And so add value. I like to think of it as one way (there are many others ) of creating a smile in the mind of the person who really looks at those shelves. Most won't , but of those who do, I bet they'll touch them, and - maybe- smile a little.
Thanks Ian, 👍👍
I watch all your videos and I must say I have learnt a lot of tips from you
Really appreciate your videos
Great job on these shelves 👍
+John Wareham Thanks! 👍
Great information and presentation.
nice job Peter, just love the on the job video's, beautiful material by the way with the wax and all 👍
+Rob en Henni Thanks! Worked out really nicely 👍
They are beautiful shelves BTW. Nice job.
+cliff owens Thanks 👍
I like seeing this simply done in a tutorial, because you can take a lot of cool approaches with this. Make the bottom board much deeper and use it as a floating desk. Put one of these over your bed, have long rails by the side of your bed and use the shelf as a nightstand. Combine shorter and longer shelves for a fancier look. Attach hooks into the back of some drawers and wall mount them. If you google for "danish wall unit" you'll find a lot of cool ideas you can implement at a fraction of the price.
Joshua Koudys Thanks! 👍
Loved it. 😍
Thanks👍
Good idea for the biscuit jointer I sometimes use a mortice machine but working by myself trying to handle a large sheet is not the easiest
I like you job keep up Mr
Great video Peter! Looking to do something like this for my game room!
Thanks! 👍
Great young man
hi peter
i totally agree with you with the large router much easier to control
with the larger base
+james o'connell 👍
best cat video ever
One can never have............... enough dogholes in the workbench.
A workbench is a nice thing but it must serve you, not opposite.
Good job. Simple things give the shelves a much nicer job. You only need (to know how) to do it.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing peter
Pleasure - thanks for watching!
You can’t just drill holes in your workbench like that people will think you’re some sort of maniac!! Lol love it chap
With a bench like this - oh yes ai can, lol! 😂😂👍👍
I like the wax idea on the ply. Looks superb. (Stolen).
+Graham Orm Hey, if you're going to steal it, at least improve on it 😂
Very good
Thanks! 👍
Buenas notches!
Some nice ideas for a polished finish. I'm not going to notch because of (a) faff, and (b) once up, books will cover the gap between wall and shelf. Also in the past I've often wanted to run cabling up behind the shelves and it leaves room for that. A word about ideal spacing of the spur shelving would have been welcome. Excellent video, though, and great to watch someone who both loves his work and cares for detail.
Actually the router is a better idea anyway!
That will be where they Shelve Their Plans :-)
You should mount an large piece of acrylic to the base to get more area. I do like the idea of the support pin that festool has for their routers to better handle edges and not falling over.
I actually bought one of those fancy one-handed (trim)routers and I do feel that it is a lot easier than with the large one even with the smaller base area. It feels better balanced to handle the edges, almost like it was designed for that... :)
Nice video as always!
Thanks! 👍
Good idea to use the domino on the slots. I often find the "raw" industrial look can be very appealing. If you didn't have a domino and still wanted a machined finish you could sandwich the 4 shelves with a sacrificial blocks either side of the 4 shelves and use a router to plunge down (so the end of the router bit is parallel to the edge). Thanks. David
DRMNZ Thanks! Yep, lots of ways to make those cuts - domino sure was easy 😄
Simple tools and simple material and the finish is great plywood last longer than mdf and doesn't bow enjoy the video.
Thanks! I love a nice bit of birch ply - my favourite sheet material 👍
Nice video Peter. My take on the notches. Drill a 3mm hole in each corner so that it's edges touch the side and rear of the notch. Then do the same with a 20mm bit. The perimeter of the 20mm hole should miss the 3mm hole completely and leave it in place.
Using a downward cutting jigsaw blade (They do work, you need new ones!), with a backing board cut out the notch using the two 20mm holes to turn the blade. Then trim back the bits in the corners to leave a 1.5mm radius in each corner, which can be squared off easily with the jig saw if required.
There's a thousand ways to skin a cat!!
+Graham Orm At least a thousand! Domino technique worked pretty well 👍
Peter Millard the down cutting jigsaw blades only work when the jigsaw is set in non reciprocating mode. Usually setting 0.
You probably know this but just checking.
@@hkrsescort they'd have to reciprocate to work at all! Unless terminology is different where you're from, I suspect you meant the "orbital" mode, since the down-cutting blade's cutting stroke would be when it's at the rear of the orbit, away from the material.
I used twin slot to build a shelf for my parents new TV, saves so much space compared to a TV stand and so much safer than those glass base stands
Would love to see a video dedicated to Twin slots - for example the various systems out there. I believe the one I'm currently using is called sapphire - in the past we used one from Wickes which I think was better - it was easier to lift the brackets. But I love how flexible the system is - when I changed printers to one that was a totally different shape and size all I had to do was move the shelf up or down a level.
Personally I like the little gap at the back - very useful for threading wires that go to power the various devices I have sitting on my shelves.
I also used Twin Slot system under the staircase to build a little coat rack section plus a shelf that acts as a USB charging station for guests - they can safely leave their phones and tablets to charge whilst we all have dinner.
The first thought when he said SHELVES was.....naaaah MDF won't help ypu this time :) well done !
Great job.however, for me he hardest is how to screw the shelves to the board?
Nice... I only wish you had shown how you attach the shelves to the brackets, which is what I am having trouble with.
Screws. Longer ones nearest the wall as the brackets are deeper. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hello Peter, thanks, yes I know longer screws in the back... but what's the ration on the length screw/board+rail? I do not want to screw going through the wood, and also, I want to make sure enough of the screw goes through the board, so it does not fall (I will contain all heavy glass jars) . While husband thinks it is ok to have screws go only until about half of the shelf (which is one cm thick) I want the screw to travel at least .80 mm inside the wood... any advice on that regard? Thanks in advance!
@@1keyl I tried putting screws in that would go halfway into the board and they wouldn't stay in, they just drop right out. Not sure longer ones that go 3/4 through are going to be much better. How'd yours turn out?
If you want shelving of this type to look trendy, vitsoe is the real, but expensive answer 😊
Peter - New to your channel, and catching up on the old ones :-) What is the "bees wax" product that you are using (don't see it listed in your description)? Cheers.
Hi Paul, and welcome! I usually use Liberon beeswax - amzn.to/2zTixUU (US:amzn.to/2zklbal) but only because I can get it locally - never found much difference between any of the brands tbh 👍👍
Thanks for the video. What’s the well known brand that I don’t know? 😂😂😂
I really enjoy your woodworking videos. BTW couldn't you have lined all the shelves together and used a router to dado the notch?
Robert Penewell Thanks! Yep, that would be one way; three big lumps of wood to align though, and harder to support it all 'on edge' including the router! If the simple solution works, I'll always go for that 😄👍
I've had this track/bracket system for years but never notched the shelves...I'm going to do that so the shelves don't slide. However, I've also never put screws through the bottom of the brackets into the shelf boards because the length that would be needed for the back screw seems ridiculous. I'm also going to figure out a way to put a rail around the shelves so items won't slide off in case of modest earthquake.
I'm wanting to put some of these in my shop with the double slot standard and 24" shelf brackets. Do these have side to side play/wiggle to them ? It just seems that they would without the shelf bracket being secured in any way. I'm trying to find this out before I purchase them. Thanks a bunch.
@@ImAcoastpedder yes there’s some side-to-side play. It generally hasn’t been a problem for me when stuff is on the shelves and the weight weighing the brackets down. Mostly it’s when the shelves aren’t full, or I’m rearranging stuff that I notice the side-to-side wiggle. Once I notch the shelf boards in the back as shown, that won’t happen…it’s the shelf board sliding on them that makes the wiggle. I am going to screw down at least the front where the bracket is narrow.
Got those in my electronics room, they are very strong. You use a lot of mdf and ply and paint it, do you ever use melamine chipboard, if not why not?
They are excellent. I’ll make with whatever materials my clients want; overwhelmingly that’s been a painted finish (and overwhelming white) for the last 15 years or so. That’s it; I have no problem with MFC, it’s a fantastic product that’s been massively improved upon since the old MFI days, and my yard can supply, cut and edgeband it for me, just that so,far nobody’s asked me for it. 👍👍
Great video, but wish you showed HOW to screw the shelves to the brackets. With these rubbermaid brackets it seems easier said than done. Have to come from the bottom? Pretty precise screw length? Anyhow, would be a helpful addition to this video
Thanks. Unfortunately you just need a wide selection of screw lengths, as the exact length required will vary depending on the size of the bracket. 👍
Another good video, thanks. I just wondered if I could ask you a question regarding the way you make doors. I am in the process of making some wardrobes for my son and his wife. Due to the size of the room I want to fit sliding doors. My question is if I make panel doors your way would they be heavy enough. The doors would be 2050 X 980 with three panels in each. Many thanks, Tom.
Sure, that's a big old door, and even with a panel door they'd weigh a fair bit. You might want to consider beefing up the panel to say, 9mm, if you think they'll be a bit lightweight. Easy enough to work out; 18mm MR MDF weighs around 15Kg/sq m - work out the areas of your door and allow for variances in thickness, and you'll have a pretty good idea of the weight; comes in handy when speccing hardware (hinges, runners etc...) too!
Just did a quick calc; at that size you'll use ~1 sq m of material for the rails and stiles, and 1.5 sq m for the panels. So if you went with 18/6 then each door would weigh around 22Kg. A 9mm panel would bump it up to ~26Kg, a 22/9 close to 30Kg. HTH, P
Many thanks for your reply, you're a gentleman and a scholar. I think I'll go with 18mm stiles and rails and 9mm for the panel just to give it a bit of stiffness. Thanks again.
Great work! Counter sunk pilot hole, screw but is it screwing into the bracket? Bracket looks metal, does it have holes with raw plugs in it? Cheers
Thanks. The steel uprights have a countersink moulded into them, so regular csk screws work just fine. I didn't fit the uprights, the clients did that part. 👍
Good video (as usual)👍 Have you ever considered when replacing your worktop using Peter Parfitt's (New Brit Workshop) Parf dog drilling jig (sold bŷ Axminster)? Did I hear correctly that the architects are going to screw the shelves to the brackets? How many architects will that take and will they use the right screws?
Thanks! No, when I replace my worktops it'll be just with MDF again- nothing fancy, nice and sacrificial 😉. TheParf jig looks interesting, but not really sure I'd have the use for it, and my timber yard has just put in a big CNC... And yes, the architects were fitting the shelves to the brackets; I think they're still discussing the screws 😂 To be fair they did a decent job of fitting the uprights - practical hands-on architects, who knew?? 👍
Peter Millard I think Peter uses MDF too but can replace as and when with using the jig. I am still cogitating over it.
I'm guessing that you don't have a Festool Vecturo OS400 multi-tool then. A multi-tool would be the quickest way on that job I would have thought. Still neat solution though.
David Marsden On the plunge base? Yes, that would have done it, and no I don't have the Vecturo, I've had other multitools for a long time though. Because of he way they oscillate I find them quite hard to use accurately when I'm doing more controlled cuts e.g. perfectly square and plumb with absolute start end end points. But yes, the Vecturo on the plunge base would have done that cut, for sure, at a price, but you use the tools you have, not the ones you'd like 😉👍
Hi Peter, what grit do you use to sand the plywood edges?
Hi Jessica. Usually sand to P180 on edges that are to be lacquered, P120 for paint. 👍
OK, so I have this kind of shelf system and notched the shelves as you show. Now I want to put the screws up through the brackets into the shelves. I got screws that should go halfway into the shelf boards...but they just fall right out -- how do you get them to stay in? They don't bring the boards snug against the bracket at all.
The brackets are angled, so you need much longer screws for the back of the bracket nearest the wall, than you do for the front. Measure the bracket at the screw hole, then add half the shelf thickness. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for the response. I did try that exactly, but for some reason the screws won't stay in tight...they easily wiggle and drop out. Might be because my shelf boards are MDF and not plywood (mine are in the garage so didn't need to be as fancy as yours).
Yes so how do you screw the shelves to the brackets?
Shorter screws at the front, longer ones at the back. 👍
The middle rail is a bit too low and doesn't allow the shelf to sit flush with the bracket.
Utilitarian it may be, but if they move, it is easily dismantled for moving.
Very true! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop In fact, this system is what I have decided to use to create bookshelves in my bedroom. Rather than get, "William Bookshelves" from the yellow and blue furniture. I just need to search a few timber yards for some interesting wood for the shelves.
Slight worry how do the shelf keep themselves on the brackets without sliding off? Is there an option to screw them in?
Yes.
Hi Peter, great video. May I ask what beeswax finish you use? Do you have a link? Thanks!
Thanks! There should be a link in the video description, but I generally use Liberon beeswax - amzn.to/2zTixUU (US:amzn.to/2zklbal) 👍
The shelves will be non adjustable when the brackets are fixed, had this problem before.
There needs to be adequate room for the brackets to articulate therefore having the shelves so close to the wall and uprights doesn't allow for this.
I had a vision of you using the domino for an excellent way to fix the shelves ie installing domino's on underside of shelves so the dowels fitted tightly inside the brackets negating the need for three different size screws per bracket.
I don't believe it's possible to use the domino machine on such a way but I hope you get what I mean
+cliff owens Clients were happy to fix the shelves themselves, once they had their heights sorted. 👍
Peter Millard I gave myself an idea when I had that "vision" I think I'll attempt what I seen the next time I have the chance :-D, thanks for the reply and please don't take my comments as anything more than constructive criticism :-h.
The dowels idea would work pretty well I think and still allow for adjustability as they could be popped out fairly easily, I digress, apologies lol
Think i would have cheated ,clamped all of them together ,stood them on there side and made like a story stick to clamp to it and used the router to cut them all at once ,when i do the round over on the edges ,i use a mounted router ,for me it makes quick and easy work out of it ,but if you asked me they should have had you make them a floor to ceiling desk and shelving unit ,but sometimes you just have to get your foot in the door huh ...lol
Yep, there's lots of ways I could have gone, this one worked OK. Didn't much fancy moving a full shelf horizontally to round-over the ends of the end of the shelves, which is why I went for a freehand cut. Great idea about the desk, but there's a sofa directly beneath the shelves, so a non-starter, sadly. Thinking about it, I hope those shelves stay on the wall... 🤔😬
Well if you didnt hang the support bars you ve got nothing to worry about ...lol
Very true! 😂
How much do you pay for a full sheet of Birch ply? I'd love to use it, but no where local sells it, and if I buy it online, the delivery is super expensive.
Sorry to hear that - Birch ply is a very nice board to use and (for the most part) readily available. I pay around £60/sheet for 18mm, inc VAT. I know you can get it cheaper, but London, you know??
Same here in the North West. Around £60 for 18mm, but if you want premium grade with no surface patching its probably another tenner.
Thankfully I've found a local dealer...hours are terrible, so you have to plan ahead for a project, but I can get it. Prices seem comparable too, I don't think he's raised them from when I got these (7/2017, USD)
5x5 3/4" $63.59 (2.54/sqft) AB
5x5 3/4" $75.10 (3.00/sqft) AA
4x8 3/4" $89.36 (2.79/sqft)
Unfortunately, having used it, it's raised my tastes, and I struggle to convince myself to use lesser (though cheaper!) plywood, even for shop cabinets. :(
What about dado...would that work?
Sorry Bill - I don’t follow you; a dado where?
Maybe make the back notches by taping the boards together, standing the group on edge and putting them through your table saw dado blade set to the depth of the wall standard?
@@bduncan43 Ah, I see; yes, you could do that with a router - Dado stacks don't comply** with health & safety regs in the UK/EU so aren't widely used, and few current saws have an arbor capable of taking them, just FYI. Thanks! 👍
**If you want to get picky, they're not non-compliant per se, but their use (and the momentum they generate) makes it almost impossible to brake most saws in the required time to comply with the current regs; there are some big industrial saws than can do this, but they're typically beyond the scope/reach of one-man-band maker/installers. 🤷♂️
Who puts a telephone that high up on a wall??! 😃
IKR? Architects! 🤷♂️😂
Ah to only get such nice plywood in the USA... here we only get crap.
+Minok1217 Sorry to hear that - but yes, I agree, it is a nice looking board, lovely to work with 👍
Yeah, the main home improvement shops best plywood has got all sorts of air pockets between the plys and puttied on the back sides, so its not even a good finish on both sides. Canadian woodworkers complain as well, it seems the best plywood gets exported from where its made. But birch plywood isn't common in the US, so I don't think thats the issue here... its just our market in North America is just satisfied with mediocre wood.
I'm putting the same schelving system in a closet - but not cutting out the area for the vertical supports as I intend to use the gap that gets left as a result to route cables - the shelves will be covered with computers and displays.
Again, nice job.
I ran into this myself here in Toronto. They often include the manufacturer #, so you can see the actual grade of the wood (instead of relying on their assurance that it's "top quality"). It's mostly B2 grade and below, and usually ~$110CAD for an oak 4x8'. I did find however that RONA sells a very nice A2 grade grade 4x8' oak for only $71. For an A1 grade and you'll need to check a lumber yard that specialises in ply. It's too bad ply's got such a bad rap -- the quality stuff, properly finished, can be pretty gorgeous and has a lot of advantages over planks.
Will they warp if you dont screw to brtacketrs
Katelyn Lee I certainly wouldn't expect them to - 18mm Birch ply is pretty stable 👍
The boards definitely won't, but you certainly could see it pull away from the wall if not installed properly. I think you probably mean "studs", not brackets (not having those on track shelves makes no sense). If you have wood studs, you're golden. If you have steel, I've had a good experience going in with some #12 sheet metal screws after drilling a 5/32" pilot hole. I'm guessing completely, but so long as about half the tracks are stud-mounted you're probably okay anchoring the others to drywall. If the wall's plaster lathe, I'd recommend against wall-mounting entirely.
I've been paying attention. Lazy means, you're running a business. Why I can't make a go of it. I've also noticed that many woodworker love their tools, and treat the job like Hobby. No one needs a hundred dollar coping saw. MDF works fine for shelves. It's not art, it business.
“It’s not art, it’s business” 💥 Boom!💥 👍👍
None of these videos show the screws used to secure shelves to brackets!?!?!
I know, it's annoying -- show the whole process please. I tried putting screws into mine and they just dropped right out...didn't hold the boards snug to the brackets at all. Maybe that's why they don't show it.