Great attempt but wrong! The repair kit is very easy to fit, put the kit together on your handle but without the handle lobe in the new recess, then use a small flat head and pressure on the new lock actuator tab where the rod goes while using the screwdriver to tease the lobe into the recess. It took me less than two minutes, start to finish.... no swearing, use of a vice or eye protection. The spring will naturally sit in place then finish by a final tap on the locating pin.
Found this oddly satisfying. The spring assembly looks like a fiddly job so well done on getting it remounted whilst doing a stirling job on the videography!
Hi, very interested in seeing your fix. Exactly the same issue with mine. One small point, that clip on the lock, you just need to slightly lever the clip and the rod will pull out, conversely just straight forward push the pointy end of rod back into it without levering, the clip itself slides sideways onto the lock cam bar with the rod out and does not need to be forced off by stretching over it.
Thanks. I followed this video a few months ago to fix my handle. I struggled to get the clip wrapped around (12.30min mark), so I used a screwdriver to apply force and push it in.
Thanks for the video. I notice at 15.45 the door springs out when you pulled the door to open. Ive adjusted the striker plate on the jamb to relieve that springiness when the door handle is pulled.
Absolutely excellent! My 2001 vogue has exactly the same issue, I'll sort it out when I colour code the door handles, aged grey doesn't go well with oslo blue!
Interesting video, mine has the same issue . I have gotten into the habit of tapping the handle back in before closing the door. I may get round to doing this repair at some point, and then tackle every other interior panel that is either loose, rattling or creaking
The retaining cilp on the private lock can be a pain if worn, as you state they do have a tendency to pop off. Had to change the latch mechanism on mine 18 months back, when they play up door doesn't close / lock, tail gate plays up as it takes a ground from the drivers latch, lilkey an issue with one or more of the micro switchs, but I fitted a new replacement, no issues since not cheap mind. Got to love a P38.
Yeah I thought the lock rod attachment to the handle was really weird…felt like might come off over a big bump but I guess not something designed to be taken apart regularly. I also need to get into one of the rear door latches to do the door open microswitch…bit of a pain compared the Classic when they are just in the jam!
@@neilfixes5501 if it happens and you need to input the EKA code that's when things can get tricky 😳 especially if the electronic latch also decides to play up and cause a central locking problem, not fun been there.
Hi I have the same problem facing it my car but it’s really difficult to find the parts how do I fix it you have any options I am in UAE please give me some suggestions that would be appreciated Really appreciate your fix it’s been very helpful to others great job 🙏
Are Land Rover not able to ship to UAE? parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/stc3063-kit-cam-door-lock.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6auyBhDzARIsALIo6v9O7Cu24oOvcjc--P8XiV6Dt2Ke-XsmJpYjB4-pEbqMFh6lURCM5sIaAmqcEALw_wcB
And also I have to get one more opinion regarding the oil Grade mean 20w40 or 20w 50 which one we have use please provide the valuable information Thank And much appreciated
I was tending to use 20w50 in the P38. I don’t know how much difference it makes, but many seem to favour the thicker oil for the Rover V8 as the engines get older.
Only someone who has repaired these door handles can understand the work involved in forcing off the complicated ring of wisdom, the frustration of why they make such a complicated mechanism, and the fact that this damn part, not the door handle assembly, is sold by itself for about 4£! I have two of these parts for each door, left and right, although of course I have some complaints. They are like headache pills or good luck charms.
the trick is to put the ring of wisdom on the cam first...line up the holes, and then use long-nosed pliers to push the point of the rod through the hole. The wings of the sping clip will locate in the groove on the rod... takes mere seconds once you work out the trick
That is correct, 3063 does one side front and rear, and part number 3064 does the other side front and rear. At this moment in time, 3063 is readily available, 3064 is more rare, so get them when you can.
Glad I just found this. Just had a 97 Autobiography rock up on the truck today in Adelaide that I bought at auction from Sydney sight unseen. May regret that yet. Like yours the left hand outer door latch is problematic but mine won't open the door. Flops loose. Can only be opened from the inside so I may have another issue. And the drivers interior handle flops loose but can't open the door at all so can't open the tailgate. Another question- the door splash cover-does that not come off? You are the second one I have seen with cut slits in it to open it to the mechanism
Sounds like various rods inside the doors have become disconnected, the exterior handle and interior pull handle are separate linkages. I’m not sure how they were originally, but on this one all the foam sheets inside the doors have been stuck down with a very thick and strong weather seal type glue, it’s stronger than the foam so if you try to pull the foam off it just tears. Only way to remove would be to carefully cut through the glue with a sharp knife. For common access points I’ve just found it easier to cut into it and tape it back up.
@@classiced1416 Ok it just looks very messy and with our very fine dust here in Aus I wonder how much might leak through those cuts. Car makers here used a rubber non hardening strip around the plastic that sealed the door up which you could carefully peel back and reseal again. Have to see how I go with that tomorrow when I go for the lhd as that is the only one opening at the moment. Suspect and hope you are right with door linkages as doors were first opening when it went to auction house and just before started advised no longer opening so I think they may have been opening them like you said not to. Thank you for the video though as at least I can see how to get the exterior one off to look at it.
Well I've been into the left door. Missing the clip off the rod to the handle. one whole rod missing and spring and screw missing out of handle...sigh. Right side the interior handle has been broken off its mount and wire pulled out of clip and broken...sigh again. Looks like I am going to have to do the prisoner breakout job with a hacksaw blade between the back door and pillar to saw through the U piece (striker?) Good news is we have 3 yards here in Adelaide called U Pull It. Have a 95 Rangie in one near home and got a drivers door latch and cable plus all the other bits and some trim for $23.60 Aus. Ran out of time today so going back tomorrow to raid left door. Also the roof lining in it intact and in beautiful condition compared to my tatty one. Do you know if there is a guide to get one of those out?
@@anthonyscolyer8094 do you mean a guide for the roof lining? There may well be, unfortunately when I did mine I didn’t video it, but it’s not a particularly difficult job. Remove pillar trims, sun visors, interior lights etc. I would recommend getting the board re trimmed professionally though, I did one a while ago and while it was Ok, there were a few places I didn’t quite get it stuck down properly.
@@classiced1416 I was going to use the one thats in the wreck but reading up on removal frightens me off as some say 2 hours and some 8. Think I would be in the latter!! Fragile clips around the sunroof and other fragile bits and also would love a workshop manual like you have. Are they still available? Oh and are the rear quarter panels bolt on bolt off like your classic as one of mine is damaged
Great attempt but wrong! The repair kit is very easy to fit, put the kit together on your handle but without the handle lobe in the new recess, then use a small flat head and pressure on the new lock actuator tab where the rod goes while using the screwdriver to tease the lobe into the recess. It took me less than two minutes, start to finish.... no swearing, use of a vice or eye protection. The spring will naturally sit in place then finish by a final tap on the locating pin.
Any info on front door speaker replacement and tweeter upgrade would but greatly appreciated. Well explained video!
A very good video, one of the best I've seen: good clear camera work and easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Found this oddly satisfying. The spring assembly looks like a fiddly job so well done on getting it remounted whilst doing a stirling job on the videography!
Hi, very interested in seeing your fix. Exactly the same issue with mine. One small point, that clip on the lock, you just need to slightly lever the clip and the rod will pull out, conversely just straight forward push the pointy end of rod back into it without levering, the clip itself slides sideways onto the lock cam bar with the rod out and does not need to be forced off by stretching over it.
Thanks. I followed this video a few months ago to fix my handle. I struggled to get the clip wrapped around (12.30min mark), so I used a screwdriver to apply force and push it in.
Thanks for the video. I notice at 15.45 the door springs out when you pulled the door to open. Ive adjusted the striker plate on the jamb to relieve that springiness when the door handle is pulled.
Absolutely excellent! My 2001 vogue has exactly the same issue, I'll sort it out when I colour code the door handles, aged grey doesn't go well with oslo blue!
Awesome. I'll have to get these kits. People always think the door is locked.
Interesting video, mine has the same issue . I have gotten into the habit of tapping the handle back in before closing the door.
I may get round to doing this repair at some point, and then tackle every other interior panel that is either loose, rattling or creaking
I tap the handle also. LOL.
Well done! Looks fiddly. I have to go through exactly the same exercise. Thank you, your guidance just helped me in Brisbane Australia.
Thank you for this amazing hint. Could fix my door handels perfectly.
The retaining cilp on the private lock can be a pain if worn, as you state they do have a tendency to pop off.
Had to change the latch mechanism on mine 18 months back, when they play up door doesn't close / lock, tail gate plays up as it takes a ground from the drivers latch, lilkey an issue with one or more of the micro switchs, but I fitted a new replacement, no issues since not cheap mind.
Got to love a P38.
Yeah I thought the lock rod attachment to the handle was really weird…felt like might come off over a big bump but I guess not something designed to be taken apart regularly. I also need to get into one of the rear door latches to do the door open microswitch…bit of a pain compared the Classic when they are just in the jam!
They Do come off over a bump...happened to me. I tied the rod and clip together with fine wire
@@neilfixes5501 if it happens and you need to input the EKA code that's when things can get tricky 😳 especially if the electronic latch also decides to play up and cause a central locking problem, not fun been there.
Hi I have the same problem facing it my car but it’s really difficult to find the parts how do I fix it you have any options I am in UAE please give me some suggestions that would be appreciated
Really appreciate your fix it’s been very helpful to others great job 🙏
Are Land Rover not able to ship to UAE? parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/stc3063-kit-cam-door-lock.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6auyBhDzARIsALIo6v9O7Cu24oOvcjc--P8XiV6Dt2Ke-XsmJpYjB4-pEbqMFh6lURCM5sIaAmqcEALw_wcB
Thank you, great video. 👍
Great Video!
Lube, treat
N preserve
Everything while u got the chance
With grease or silicon or treflon or sumping
Not sure why you thought the privacy lock retaining rod went into the clip that way?
My memory of it’s a bit hazy now - would have just put it back as I found it I think.
And also I have to get one more opinion regarding the oil Grade mean 20w40 or 20w 50 which one we have use please provide the valuable information
Thank And much appreciated
I was tending to use 20w50 in the P38. I don’t know how much difference it makes, but many seem to favour the thicker oil for the Rover V8 as the engines get older.
Only someone who has repaired these door handles can understand the work involved in forcing off the complicated ring of wisdom, the frustration of why they make such a complicated mechanism, and the fact that this damn part, not the door handle assembly, is sold by itself for about 4£! I have two of these parts for each door, left and right, although of course I have some complaints. They are like headache pills or good luck charms.
the trick is to put the ring of wisdom on the cam first...line up the holes, and then use long-nosed pliers to push the point of the rod through the hole. The wings of the sping clip will locate in the groove on the rod... takes mere seconds once you work out the trick
This is a great video, beautifully made, crystal clear. I’ve just bought a P38 and I’ve got a few jobs to do. Do you take requests or questions?
I can always see what I can do… I don’t normally do a huge amount of work myself on the P38 but have been doing lots of little bits recently!
@@classiced1416what area are you in ?
Hi! One question, for the rear doors, the stc 3064 and 3063 would also be used?
I'm not completely sure unfortunately, the rear doors did not have this issue so I never took them apart.
That is correct, 3063 does one side front and rear, and part number 3064 does the other side front and rear.
At this moment in time, 3063 is readily available, 3064 is more rare, so get them when you can.
Thanks a lot guys
Nice
Glad I just found this. Just had a 97 Autobiography rock up on the truck today in Adelaide that I bought at auction from Sydney sight unseen. May regret that yet. Like yours the left hand outer door latch is problematic but mine won't open the door. Flops loose. Can only be opened from the inside so I may have another issue. And the drivers interior handle flops loose but can't open the door at all so can't open the tailgate. Another question- the door splash cover-does that not come off? You are the second one I have seen with cut slits in it to open it to the mechanism
Sounds like various rods inside the doors have become disconnected, the exterior handle and interior pull handle are separate linkages.
I’m not sure how they were originally, but on this one all the foam sheets inside the doors have been stuck down with a very thick and strong weather seal type glue, it’s stronger than the foam so if you try to pull the foam off it just tears. Only way to remove would be to carefully cut through the glue with a sharp knife. For common access points I’ve just found it easier to cut into it and tape it back up.
@@classiced1416 Ok it just looks very messy and with our very fine dust here in Aus I wonder how much might leak through those cuts. Car makers here used a rubber non hardening strip around the plastic that sealed the door up which you could carefully peel back and reseal again. Have to see how I go with that tomorrow when I go for the lhd as that is the only one opening at the moment. Suspect and hope you are right with door linkages as doors were first opening when it went to auction house and just before started advised no longer opening so I think they may have been opening them like you said not to. Thank you for the video though as at least I can see how to get the exterior one off to look at it.
Well I've been into the left door. Missing the clip off the rod to the handle. one whole rod missing and spring and screw missing out of handle...sigh. Right side the interior handle has been broken off its mount and wire pulled out of clip and broken...sigh again. Looks like I am going to have to do the prisoner breakout job with a hacksaw blade between the back door and pillar to saw through the U piece (striker?) Good news is we have 3 yards here in Adelaide called U Pull It. Have a 95 Rangie in one near home and got a drivers door latch and cable plus all the other bits and some trim for $23.60 Aus. Ran out of time today so going back tomorrow to raid left door. Also the roof lining in it intact and in beautiful condition compared to my tatty one. Do you know if there is a guide to get one of those out?
@@anthonyscolyer8094 do you mean a guide for the roof lining? There may well be, unfortunately when I did mine I didn’t video it, but it’s not a particularly difficult job. Remove pillar trims, sun visors, interior lights etc.
I would recommend getting the board re trimmed professionally though, I did one a while ago and while it was Ok, there were a few places I didn’t quite get it stuck down properly.
@@classiced1416 I was going to use the one thats in the wreck but reading up on removal frightens me off as some say 2 hours and some 8. Think I would be in the latter!! Fragile clips around the sunroof and other fragile bits and also would love a workshop manual like you have. Are they still available? Oh and are the rear quarter panels bolt on bolt off like your classic as one of mine is damaged
My door is closed and I don't know how to open it. P38 2001 drivers side.
Any ideas?
Wont open from the inside or outside.
So where can I get the replacement parts from please
I think I got them off eBay - parts numbers also in the description