I fitted a brand new combi system on a top floor flat, mains pressure was a dribble so utilised the tank on the roof with a single head pump that supplied the softened water to both the bathroom and shower room, and the water mains fed the drinking water, washing/dishwasher, toilets and the sealed heating system.. just had to make sure there was a float switch in the tank to prevent the pump operating dry
The old Worcester 280 Combi could be connected to an unpressurised rad system with F&E tank. Don't know why their current range of boilers didn't continue with this useful feature, enabling the existing rad valves to be retained.
To repeat: My unit is a Triangle tube PE110. The unit has the boiler and hot water tank all combined. My hot water tank in the unit has a pipe coming out the bottom that joins the return piping. ITs leaking and can't be replaced. Would need a new expensive tank. I would like to bypass the tank and have heat via baseboard. Then get an electric hot water tank for my hot water. You are saying that the tank can be bypassed and still have baseboard heat? @@dereton33
the floors may be expensive but what about the ceilings? i have seen boiler pipework done by removing the ceilings and then putting up new plasterboard (mainly with tiled first floor bathrooms) sometimes can be a cheaper option depending how expensive the floor is to replace.
Hi, can I ask you if I can get a floor standing boiler to replace the one I already have which is a myson marathon 500b(all working perfectly) Also it's worth mentioning my radiator system is fitted with 8 mm small bore piping! Many thanks
hi, quick comment - the address for your Amazon site has commas instead of full stops so the link doesn't work as-is. Otherwise, thanks for the videos, I've found a few of them really useful. Thanks again.
I had great fun with a small domestic angle-grinder, cutting an old galvanised metal tank in half in my Mum's house where the plumbers had simply left the old, redundant kit in place. I was quite disappointed when I finished the job!
@@OrlithNightfire why is it such a nightmare may I ask, two plumbers who came round recommended we get a combi and that it was going to be straightforward.
@@TheLunnyBear its the location of mine. Mine is under a cubby hole under the stairs that backs onto the living room. The combi can't go in there as no way to get a ventilation and drainage pipe out. My house is a terrace. So house build on each side and so I would have to have new pipes laid to either have the boiler on living room outer house wall or kitchen outer wall. I did ask of try could put it were the water tank is as that has to obviously go. But they said no. I'll have to look into it more after dad passes as he doesn't want the hassle of the house being ripped up at his age
@@OrlithNightfire Ah I see, thanks for answering, was a little worried but now I know it's because of your set up it makes sense now as to why it'll not be a hassle in my house. Thanks for putting my mind at ease.
I'm not an engineer but I'm guessing it's the same - same principle that one machine does the same job whether oil or gas. Only concern might be pipe size, as they might be a lot bigger for an oil system (the central heating side that is). Also oil boilers are commonly external, so you might want to check that a combi can be installed on the internal side of the same oil boiler position. Like I say, I'm NOT a heating engineer and the above could be complete rubbish! Good luck though.
I’m a Plumber & Heating Engineer. I wouldn’t recommend an oil combi, by the very nature of oil boilers they can’t heat water quickly. Oil burner technology has not changed in 50 years & it takes about 20minutes to produce heat that a gas boiler can product in minutes. Oil Combi boiler require an integral Heat Bank, that Stores heat to help with HW performance, so they’re inherently big boilers & not very efficient. It depends on your requirement, but an Unvented cylinder will improve HW performance for example. HTH
hffp1 Ah now electric boilers!! To generate instant HW with electric is ridiculously expense & not practical. The flow rate from ‘flow-through’ type electric Combi boilers is pitiful. The best solution for heating water with electric is Storage, you need lots of Storage, plus, a very good Tariff. In rural areas A Kero(oil) system, designed correctly, is the best way to go.
I fitted a brand new combi system on a top floor flat, mains pressure was a dribble so utilised the tank on the roof with a single head pump that supplied the softened water to both the bathroom and shower room, and the water mains fed the drinking water, washing/dishwasher, toilets and the sealed heating system.. just had to make sure there was a float switch in the tank to prevent the pump operating dry
Interesting. What flow switch did you use to operate the pump when a tap was opened assuming you did it this way.
found this video very informative and useful I personally al I like to stick to my old indierct system reliable then a combi enjoyed the video.
Thanks Ratch.
The old Worcester 280 Combi could be connected to an unpressurised rad system with F&E tank. Don't know why their current range of boilers didn't continue with this useful feature, enabling the existing rad valves to be retained.
Some changes are forced on them.
My boiler does hot water and baseboard heat. If my tank is leaking out the bottom, can it be converted to just heat and bypass the tank?
Yes it could.
To repeat: My unit is a Triangle tube PE110. The unit has the boiler and hot water tank all combined. My hot water tank in the unit has a pipe coming out the bottom that joins the return piping. ITs leaking and can't be replaced. Would need a new expensive tank. I would like to bypass the tank and have heat via baseboard. Then get an electric hot water tank for my hot water. You are saying that the tank can be bypassed and still have baseboard heat? @@dereton33
Great video … it’s helped me loads 🙂. I owe you a beer
Deal!
Question is F & E system known as a Conventional system? thanks
Yes Carl.
the floors may be expensive but what about the ceilings? i have seen boiler pipework done by removing the ceilings and then putting up new plasterboard (mainly with tiled first floor bathrooms) sometimes can be a cheaper option depending how expensive the floor is to replace.
I do like a German shepherd.
Excellent stuff. Thanks
No problem Danny.
Hi, can I ask you if I can get a floor standing boiler to replace the one I already have which is a myson marathon 500b(all working perfectly) Also it's worth mentioning my radiator system is fitted with 8 mm small bore piping! Many thanks
Yes you can!
What if your pipes leading to the rads are 10mm? Can this still be done?
No afraid not.
hi, quick comment - the address for your Amazon site has commas instead of full stops so the link doesn't work as-is. Otherwise, thanks for the videos, I've found a few of them really useful. Thanks again.
Thanks David I will check it out.
Great video Al. This might seem a silly question but how do I get the enormous tank out of the loft?
Cut it in half with a saw once it is drained out.
I had great fun with a small domestic angle-grinder, cutting an old galvanised metal tank in half in my Mum's house where the plumbers had simply left the old, redundant kit in place. I was quite disappointed when I finished the job!
Would it work with a one pipe heating system
Yes mine does
Yes Intergas hre boiler
Just to add to the mix....it may have been a back boiler...installed behind a Gas fire, and that is where the fun starts...Ha...
Yes I know what that is like, I did convert one years ago.
Yeah thats what mine is, so swapping to a combi would be a nightmare
@@OrlithNightfire why is it such a nightmare may I ask, two plumbers who came round recommended we get a combi and that it was going to be straightforward.
@@TheLunnyBear its the location of mine. Mine is under a cubby hole under the stairs that backs onto the living room. The combi can't go in there as no way to get a ventilation and drainage pipe out. My house is a terrace. So house build on each side and so I would have to have new pipes laid to either have the boiler on living room outer house wall or kitchen outer wall. I did ask of try could put it were the water tank is as that has to obviously go. But they said no. I'll have to look into it more after dad passes as he doesn't want the hassle of the house being ripped up at his age
@@OrlithNightfire Ah I see, thanks for answering, was a little worried but now I know it's because of your set up it makes sense now as to why it'll not be a hassle in my house. Thanks for putting my mind at ease.
Al I have an oil boiler no gas in my village
Can you get a oil combi?
I'm not an engineer but I'm guessing it's the same - same principle that one machine does the same job whether oil or gas. Only concern might be pipe size, as they might be a lot bigger for an oil system (the central heating side that is). Also oil boilers are commonly external, so you might want to check that a combi can be installed on the internal side of the same oil boiler position. Like I say, I'm NOT a heating engineer and the above could be complete rubbish! Good luck though.
Bikerchris has the right answer. Thanks mate.
@@dereton33 Cheers Al, probably the only one I got right! 👍 Keep up the great work.
I’m a Plumber & Heating Engineer. I wouldn’t recommend an oil combi, by the very nature of oil boilers they can’t heat water quickly.
Oil burner technology has not changed in 50 years & it takes about 20minutes to produce heat that a gas boiler can product in minutes.
Oil Combi boiler require an integral Heat Bank, that Stores heat to help with HW performance, so they’re inherently big boilers & not very efficient.
It depends on your requirement, but an Unvented cylinder will improve HW performance for example.
HTH
hffp1 Ah now electric boilers!! To generate instant HW with electric is ridiculously expense & not practical. The flow rate from ‘flow-through’ type electric Combi boilers is pitiful. The best solution for heating water with electric is Storage, you need lots of Storage, plus, a very good Tariff. In rural areas A Kero(oil) system, designed correctly, is the best way to go.
What on earth is F and E? Don’t be like Americans who constantly use initials yet never say what they stand for.
Feed and Expansion.
F&E stands for Flippin' Eck. Hope that helps.