Thanks so much for this. I was going to try and winterize my own this winter since I bought a 49gallon compressor. Never realized I should drop the pressure to 40psi. Great video and as always....you are sooooo informative !!! Love your videos and reviews
Wow, I don't know what I was afraid of all these years. This is so simple!! I have all the stuff to do this, and now I have the confidence that I was lacking. Thank you!
That's probably what this company copied. I had seen something like that a few plumbers used and it seemed to work great. Admittedly this one is really well built with crimped connectors but functionally they are the same as what you had.
Nice video. This year I purchased my own Tow Behind compressor, its pretty awesome.. lol I would agree, keep the pressure down if you can. I have gone to 50 psi and been doing that for 25 years, never had an issues. Just use caution and take your time. like Silver Cymbal has said, I go thru mine 2 or 3 times just to be sure, then once Im done I leave both petcocks open 1/4 turn as well as both ball values and I also leave the faucet spigot open.
Just completed a diy system and it turned out great. Sent away for the Craftsman pancake air compressor for the winterizing blow out. Did a blow out just today to make sure compressor worked and I'd know how to do it in the fall. I followed all safety precautions including eye and ear protection BUT, when I pulled the air evacuation ring I didn't have the ear muffs on and the escape of air from the tank was extremely loud and violent. Hurt my left ear and I don't have good hearing to begin with. Leave protective gear on until that thing is put away. Learned my lesson.
I have a 42 year old Toro Moist-O-Matic controller with hydraulic valves. Nothing digital at all. They haven't broke yet and I've never had them blown-out for the winter. To winterize, I just open the 2 petcock valves outside on the backflow-preventer, open the underground water shut-off valve that's inside some 4" PVC tubing about 12" below ground-level, and then open the Quarter-turn valve attached to the sprinkler water supply line in the basement above the sump-pump well.
Please advise the minimum size compressor needed and how to attach the compressor hose if you don't have the faucet end on your back flow preventer. Thanks and great videos.
My system is not nearly as nice as shown in this video, but the clear instructions and images helped me understand the similarities, so I’m confident I can do this project successfully. Thank you
I just wanted to thank you again, all your videos are so helpful but the ones about winterizing irrigation systems gave me the confidence to attempt to winterize my new irrigation system for the first time. After a lot of research on the compressor and buying the hose adaptor you suggested, I am in the middle of blowing out my 15 zone system as we speak. Oh also I bought the rachio earlier in the spring due to your other video as well. That really makes it a breeze. Thank you for all your great videos.
I have a little drip that won't stop coming out out of the spigot even though the water is shut off and all the valves are closed. Any thoughts? My setup is the same as yours from before you added the access after the backflow preventer.
You don’t want a pancake, they go but don’t get a zone done completely before it needs to refil, during this the water then settles which has the pipe half full and then the air just passes by
Thank you for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE - Tools from the video: Blowout adapter: amzn.to/30A55Fg - Hori Hori Knife: amzn.to/3iwtBx6 Air Compressor: amzn.to/2StdyWm
I work in irrigation and the majority of the systems has a “master valve” that you have to open at first if you want to play with the other valve manually.
Hey Silver, You can do it the way I do. I just put the hose on the top of the yard and string the other at the bottom of the yard. In other words, put it on the top of the hill! Ha ha ha
Love your videos! I bought a small pancake compressor (last year's advise) and the blowout adapter. I recently did a trial run before this year's freeze and found that I ran out of pressure after about 2 minutes. Yes I have long runs with 5 -7 heads each. Do you recommend I close the adapter until the compressor pressurizes and repeat a few times? Or should I buy a bigger compressor?
Once again you came out with another great video and helpful hint. But I wonder I got a 100 PSI air compressor that I bought from harbor freight would I be able to do my sprinklers with that one?
Great video and very timely! Instead of running each zone from the outside accreditation panel can’t you just run each zone from the inside controller?
Absolutely, if you know your controller and can do it, that's definitely better and saves you digging up the box. Functionally they do the same, so whichever works.
This is a terrific video - thanks! I found that my first zone went exactly as shown. I recharged the compressor and then couldn't get pressure enough in the second zone to lift the heads. I was getting a warbling from the vacuum breaker of the backflow preventer. Seemed like it wasn't seating properly? I put water back in the system and all zones work normally. Any advice here? I have a good compressor which I was running at 40 PSI. It's possible there was little water in my system at the time because we've had a very wet fall and it hadn't run for a while. Is the issue that there wasn't enough water left in the zones to achieve proper pressure or was this just a temporary anomaly with the blackflow preventer? Thanks in advance!
40psi is what Silver Cymbal recommends, but commercial guys run at 100/110psi... im just a regular guy as well but was successful running the system for a few minutes with water to loosen the heads from the dirt, then I turn off water flow and run each zone until satisfied With spitting air...I have run to 80psi and had no issues... good luck
If your backflow preventer is below grade from your clean out spigot outside, don't forget to drain the water between the two. There should be a drain on the backflow preventer that you can open after shutting off your sprinkler water supply and completing the procedure shown in this video.
Hey there! I want to thank you for all the great videos you've provided. With your help, I've taken on so many DIY projects I otherwise wouldn't have. I'm wondering if you can help with a question I have though. I don't have a spot to connect the air line below the backflow preventer as you do as my pipe goes directly into the house from there. I think the only way to blow air through is by connecting to one of the test cocks? I can't seem to find any videos that explain how to do so and what kind of adapter is needed. I would really appreciate any assistance! I can't find a perfect match but the backflow preventer looks something like the WATTS 800M4
Will a pancake compressor have enough volume to life a zone? It takes me a few stop/starts to let the compressor recharge before I can get through 100ft of hose.
Yes for many it will work but if the run are longer or you have a larger lot it may not. Always check to make sure you see no more water coming from each head, I like to do it as shown 2x, since often water will run down the line and then be purged. A good unit that has 10 gallons of air storge but is very economical is this one: amzn.to/34hS9Vy
So how would you size the compressor for a home system? Had a house with sprinklers but never blew them out cause I didn't want to rent them monsters on wheels.
I would hate to see someone buy a compressor just for sprinklers and they are so helpful for so many tasks at home. As with other tools its always good to buy bigger than you might need for fortunately prices have come down on these so much. This is a good example of a 10 gallon unit for home that is very cheap: amzn.to/34hS9Vy This should work on nearly any average home system. Small units can defintiely work depending if your system does not have a lot of long runs, etc.
Great video thanks for posting! One clarification should I open up the blowout preventer valves ( the two small ones which needs a flathead screw driver to open) remove all the water? Or only blue valve you showed in your video before connecting the compressor?
If you are blowing out the water like mine, opening those won't release any additional water, they are ports for testing the backflow preventer and they only have a small ball valve inside themself, they don't stop any water within the valve. But opening them won't cause any problems either water it's blown out so you can do that too if you want.
Silver Cymbal thank you much for a quick reply - I was wondering whether the 40psi pressure damage the blowout preventer or not if I don’t open those valves, not much from removing additional water perspective. Looks like that is not something I need to worry about!
I just attempted this several times with no success. I have no hose drain on the back side of my vacuum breaker so I have to connect to the pressure relief valve on the back side. It appears that my air compressor that is 16gal 6scfm at 40psi is not strong enough to close the valve. I have a watts 800m4 vacuum breaker.
No, sprinkler manufacturer's don't recommend 40 psi. The pro's blow out your lines at 80 psi and residential water pressure is anywhere from 50 psi to 80 psi. I do 40 psi on my RV to blow out the lines
It depends on the model but that sounds like a small system and you would likely be ok but make sure to do each zone 2 times, its not hard and with a super small compressor you need to let it recover and then let the air in and make sure no water is coming from the heads. I linked an inexpensive unit that has a good air flow in the description.
Do you turn the main water line off? Looking at the levers at 1:21 they are all inline with the pipe, which would make them open. When you open the faucet there's no water....even more confusing, if they are open then how is the line going to get blown out. Maybe I'm not thinking right...I need to do this, but my backlow is under a box to the side of the driveway, kinda hard to get to and put a faucet on.
Those valves do shut the water off, but they are outside so they would still freeze. I turn it off from inside as shown earlier in the video. In Mass the valve would spli from ice. Hopefully you can find a shut off inside.
@@SilverCymbal sorry, I skipped by that thinking all the action started outside. Thanks for clarifying, and thanks for the video this is exactly what I need to do--quick.
Long time viewer and subscriber. I recently moved and have 15 zones and the rachio. I am shopping for a compressor that I can winterize my system with. Everything I am reading says I need 20+ cfm but the one you link to is 10 gallon and 5 cfm. I was planning on getting the husky 20 gallon from home depot, 5 cfm at 40psi. Will that be enough if I go 1 zone at a time?
Thank you. So you are correct all the books say you need like 20-1000cfm :) I have never had anything more than a 10 or 20 gallon compressor and never had a line freeze, ever in multiple houses with long runs and slopes and Massachusetts winters. I always do it as shown in the video and I would be shocked if you ever had an issue since you need to keep in mind even if somehow you only managed to blow out 60% of the water, the 40% left would not be enough to crack the line. Use your Rachio set each zone to 2-3 minutes and do the whole thing 2x, which is easy since you just sit back and rachio does it all for you. Again I can't be sure of everything you have at your place but this has worked great for me now for 20+ years
@@SilverCymbal Thank you so much for replying and the help. I really appreciate you and all the great content you produce. It has been so helpful around my house and yard.
All I have are anti siphon values with solenoids. That's it. No separate plumbing with caps and values. What should I do?? Just turn water off and open bleeder values to drain as much as possible?
You can also use the test ports to blow out the sprinklers they are usually the kind that have a slotted scrw to turn them. Some people will just remove them and adap an air compressor fitting and then replace them when done. Where I can't see yours hopefully this is helpful but make sure this can work with your setup if you try it.
@@SilverCymbal thanks Brother. Yes all valves have the slotted black screw on top which can be completely removed. The small rubber blower that connects to the compressor hose should be a decent seal. It doesn't freeze much here, only maybe 10 times a winter and never snows either so should enough hopefully.
@@SilverCymbal OMG! It worked. I removed the bleeder screw on top of each anti siphon valve. Put the rubber tip into that tiny hole. Perfect air tight fit. But it didn't work at first, had to turn the solenoid to the open position. Wa la. I'd post a pic but youtube doesn't allow. I hit u up on Facebook. A good method for someone like me
Hey great video! Question how would a mini air compressor that you use in the car and plug into the cigarette lighter in your car? Would it be strong enough?
Its a Hozelock I bought at a garden center maybe 20 years ago. I love it, it is a narrow hose but the reel works very well. This is the current version of it: amzn.to/2GqsOBc I paid maybe $60 all those years ago.
This yelow connector style is realy polular in poland. Is made by company named gardena (i think it's orginal, but not shure), and is still sold today. part number GARDENA 18215-29 , but there are cheper alternatives.
Sorry, but these tips will not help everyone. you can buy an air nozzle to garden female 3/4" at menards for under $10. As for the computer controller, 3 min is only good for a certain compressor capacity. If it's a pancake that's too much time as it'll never build back necessary pressure. For a huge compressor 3 min is too much as it will dry out and possibly burn up the plastic gears in the heads. Just let the compressor (whatever size) build up pressure and open one zone at a time and watch it until it sprays air consistently for like 30 sec.. I have a 20 gallon with a 5 HP motor that can't handle one zone for more than 30 seconds, so 3 minutes would not get me anywhere and it'll deplete the tank.
My install is very typical for a New England installation. other areas can be different. I hope it can still provide some ideas depending on what you have,
Good job > doing this for my neighbor who is 92 and cant do it. Thanks got the picture now
Thanks so much for this. I was going to try and winterize my own this winter since I bought a 49gallon compressor. Never realized I should drop the pressure to 40psi. Great video and as always....you are sooooo informative !!! Love your videos and reviews
Wow, I don't know what I was afraid of all these years. This is so simple!! I have all the stuff to do this, and now I have the confidence that I was lacking. Thank you!
Interesting that you can do this with a small pancake air compressor which I happen to have.
I had made my own compressor adapter years ago with an old washing machine hose, cut off the end, and hose clamp a ball valve and air hose fitting.
That's probably what this company copied. I had seen something like that a few plumbers used and it seemed to work great. Admittedly this one is really well built with crimped connectors but functionally they are the same as what you had.
Nice video. This year I purchased my own Tow Behind compressor, its pretty awesome.. lol I would agree, keep the pressure down if you can. I have gone to 50 psi and been doing that for 25 years, never had an issues. Just use caution and take your time. like Silver Cymbal has said, I go thru mine 2 or 3 times just to be sure, then once Im done I leave both petcocks open 1/4 turn as well as both ball values and I also leave the faucet spigot open.
Just completed a diy system and it turned out great. Sent away for the Craftsman pancake air compressor for the winterizing blow out. Did a blow out just today to make sure compressor worked and I'd know how to do it in the fall. I followed all safety precautions including eye and ear protection BUT, when I pulled the air evacuation ring I didn't have the ear muffs on and the escape of air from the tank was extremely loud and violent. Hurt my left ear and I don't have good hearing to begin with. Leave protective gear on until that thing is put away. Learned my lesson.
I have a 42 year old Toro Moist-O-Matic controller with hydraulic valves. Nothing digital at all. They haven't broke yet and I've never had them blown-out for the winter. To winterize, I just open the 2 petcock valves outside on the backflow-preventer, open the underground water shut-off valve that's inside some 4" PVC tubing about 12" below ground-level, and then open the Quarter-turn valve attached to the sprinkler water supply line in the basement above the sump-pump well.
Another great video 😁. I been doing my own sprinklers for a few years now and save a $150 a year 😁💵. It’s easy to do 👍🏻
That's great. My favorite part is doing it when I want instead of someone else telling me when the season ends.
Please advise the minimum size compressor needed and how to attach the compressor hose if you don't have the faucet end on your back flow preventer. Thanks and great videos.
My system is not nearly as nice as shown in this video, but the clear instructions and images helped me understand the similarities, so I’m confident I can do this project successfully. Thank you
I just wanted to thank you again, all your videos are so helpful but the ones about winterizing irrigation systems gave me the confidence to attempt to winterize my new irrigation system for the first time. After a lot of research on the compressor and buying the hose adaptor you suggested, I am in the middle of blowing out my 15 zone system as we speak. Oh also I bought the rachio earlier in the spring due to your other video as well. That really makes it a breeze. Thank you for all your great videos.
I have a little drip that won't stop coming out out of the spigot even though the water is shut off and all the valves are closed. Any thoughts? My setup is the same as yours from before you added the access after the backflow preventer.
AWESOME! Was thinking I could do this with an air compressor - this is exactly what I need.
Glad I could help!
You don’t want a pancake, they go but don’t get a zone done completely before it needs to refil, during this the water then settles which has the pipe half full and then the air just passes by
Just the information I was looking for! Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE - Tools from the video: Blowout adapter: amzn.to/30A55Fg - Hori Hori Knife: amzn.to/3iwtBx6 Air Compressor: amzn.to/2StdyWm
You should do a video on how to winterize a pool
I was wondering if anyone would want to see that. I am planning to close mine in the next couple of weeks.
Yes Please make that video 😁😁😁. That would be great to see how it’s done😁. It cost us $900 to winterize and cover it 💵💵💵
I work in irrigation and the majority of the systems has a “master valve” that you have to open at first if you want to play with the other valve manually.
Hey Silver,
You can do it the way I do. I just put the hose on the top of the yard and string the other at the bottom of the yard. In other words, put it on the top of the hill! Ha ha ha
Nothing wrong with that. Whatever works is good. For reels though this is nice since it's so fast.
@@SilverCymbal yes, it does. Just had to make a giggle as we head into fall.
Guy H. I use the hill method also.
Love your videos! I bought a small pancake compressor (last year's advise) and the blowout adapter. I recently did a trial run before this year's freeze and found that I ran out of pressure after about 2 minutes. Yes I have long runs with 5 -7 heads each. Do you recommend I close the adapter until the compressor pressurizes and repeat a few times? Or should I buy a bigger compressor?
Once again you came out with another great video and helpful hint. But I wonder I got a 100 PSI air compressor that I bought from harbor freight would I be able to do my sprinklers with that one?
Great Video. Thanks 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
Great video and very timely! Instead of running each zone from the outside accreditation panel can’t you just run each zone from the inside controller?
Absolutely, if you know your controller and can do it, that's definitely better and saves you digging up the box. Functionally they do the same, so whichever works.
This is a terrific video - thanks! I found that my first zone went exactly as shown. I recharged the compressor and then couldn't get pressure enough in the second zone to lift the heads. I was getting a warbling from the vacuum breaker of the backflow preventer. Seemed like it wasn't seating properly? I put water back in the system and all zones work normally. Any advice here? I have a good compressor which I was running at 40 PSI. It's possible there was little water in my system at the time because we've had a very wet fall and it hadn't run for a while. Is the issue that there wasn't enough water left in the zones to achieve proper pressure or was this just a temporary anomaly with the blackflow preventer? Thanks in advance!
40psi is what Silver Cymbal recommends, but commercial guys run at 100/110psi... im just a regular guy as well but was successful running the system for a few minutes with water to loosen the heads from the dirt, then I turn off water flow and run each zone until satisfied With spitting air...I have run to 80psi and had no issues... good luck
😊👍
If your backflow preventer is below grade from your clean out spigot outside, don't forget to drain the water between the two. There should be a drain on the backflow preventer that you can open after shutting off your sprinkler water supply and completing the procedure shown in this video.
Aren't you supposed to connect down line of the backflow? I've heard its not good to blow through the backflow preventer.
Hey there! I want to thank you for all the great videos you've provided. With your help, I've taken on so many DIY projects I otherwise wouldn't have. I'm wondering if you can help with a question I have though. I don't have a spot to connect the air line below the backflow preventer as you do as my pipe goes directly into the house from there. I think the only way to blow air through is by connecting to one of the test cocks? I can't seem to find any videos that explain how to do so and what kind of adapter is needed. I would really appreciate any assistance! I can't find a perfect match but the backflow preventer looks something like the WATTS 800M4
Very helpful video. Does the Wen compressor come with an air hose to connect to the blowout adapter? If not, what inexpensive one would you recommend?
How often do you want to aerate your lawn
I do mechanical aeration 1-2x per year. But after tring a liquir product I am planning to use a liquid product 1x and mechanical 1x
Will a pancake compressor have enough volume to life a zone? It takes me a few stop/starts to let the compressor recharge before I can get through 100ft of hose.
Yes for many it will work but if the run are longer or you have a larger lot it may not. Always check to make sure you see no more water coming from each head, I like to do it as shown 2x, since often water will run down the line and then be purged. A good unit that has 10 gallons of air storge but is very economical is this one: amzn.to/34hS9Vy
awesome, gonna save me $90 a year!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you great vid. Question, do you use 40 psi for hose as well or something less than that?
So how would you size the compressor for a home system?
Had a house with sprinklers but never blew them out cause I didn't want to rent them monsters on wheels.
I would hate to see someone buy a compressor just for sprinklers and they are so helpful for so many tasks at home. As with other tools its always good to buy bigger than you might need for fortunately prices have come down on these so much. This is a good example of a 10 gallon unit for home that is very cheap: amzn.to/34hS9Vy This should work on nearly any average home system. Small units can defintiely work depending if your system does not have a lot of long runs, etc.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks!
Great video thanks for posting! One clarification should I open up the blowout preventer valves ( the two small ones which needs a flathead screw driver to open) remove all the water? Or only blue valve you showed in your video before connecting the compressor?
If you are blowing out the water like mine, opening those won't release any additional water, they are ports for testing the backflow preventer and they only have a small ball valve inside themself, they don't stop any water within the valve. But opening them won't cause any problems either water it's blown out so you can do that too if you want.
Silver Cymbal thank you much for a quick reply - I was wondering whether the 40psi pressure damage the blowout preventer or not if I don’t open those valves, not much from removing additional water perspective. Looks like that is not something I need to worry about!
If you ever need more content I have a ton of small handyman jobs at my house and I will be the camerman for you.I live in Massachusetts.Let me know?
I just attempted this several times with no success. I have no hose drain on the back side of my vacuum breaker so I have to connect to the pressure relief valve on the back side. It appears that my air compressor that is 16gal 6scfm at 40psi is not strong enough to close the valve. I have a watts 800m4 vacuum breaker.
No, sprinkler manufacturer's don't recommend 40 psi. The pro's blow out your lines at 80 psi and residential water pressure is anywhere from 50 psi to 80 psi. I do 40 psi on my RV to blow out the lines
Hi! Do you think a pancake compressor would be enough to blowout a small 2 zone system? It covers 700 sq ft.
It depends on the model but that sounds like a small system and you would likely be ok but make sure to do each zone 2 times, its not hard and with a super small compressor you need to let it recover and then let the air in and make sure no water is coming from the heads. I linked an inexpensive unit that has a good air flow in the description.
I hate when it becomes this time of the year.
Me too! The summer was so brutally hot and dry and overnight it seems it's nearly over!
Do you turn the main water line off? Looking at the levers at 1:21 they are all inline with the pipe, which would make them open. When you open the faucet there's no water....even more confusing, if they are open then how is the line going to get blown out. Maybe I'm not thinking right...I need to do this, but my backlow is under a box to the side of the driveway, kinda hard to get to and put a faucet on.
Those valves do shut the water off, but they are outside so they would still freeze. I turn it off from inside as shown earlier in the video. In Mass the valve would spli from ice. Hopefully you can find a shut off inside.
@@SilverCymbal sorry, I skipped by that thinking all the action started outside. Thanks for clarifying, and thanks for the video this is exactly what I need to do--quick.
Long time viewer and subscriber. I recently moved and have 15 zones and the rachio. I am shopping for a compressor that I can winterize my system with. Everything I am reading says I need 20+ cfm but the one you link to is 10 gallon and 5 cfm. I was planning on getting the husky 20 gallon from home depot, 5 cfm at 40psi. Will that be enough if I go 1 zone at a time?
Thank you. So you are correct all the books say you need like 20-1000cfm :) I have never had anything more than a 10 or 20 gallon compressor and never had a line freeze, ever in multiple houses with long runs and slopes and Massachusetts winters. I always do it as shown in the video and I would be shocked if you ever had an issue since you need to keep in mind even if somehow you only managed to blow out 60% of the water, the 40% left would not be enough to crack the line. Use your Rachio set each zone to 2-3 minutes and do the whole thing 2x, which is easy since you just sit back and rachio does it all for you. Again I can't be sure of everything you have at your place but this has worked great for me now for 20+ years
@@SilverCymbal Thank you so much for replying and the help. I really appreciate you and all the great content you produce. It has been so helpful around my house and yard.
All I have are anti siphon values with solenoids. That's it. No separate plumbing with caps and values. What should I do?? Just turn water off and open bleeder values to drain as much as possible?
You can also use the test ports to blow out the sprinklers they are usually the kind that have a slotted scrw to turn them. Some people will just remove them and adap an air compressor fitting and then replace them when done. Where I can't see yours hopefully this is helpful but make sure this can work with your setup if you try it.
@@SilverCymbal thanks Brother. Yes all valves have the slotted black screw on top which can be completely removed. The small rubber blower that connects to the compressor hose should be a decent seal. It doesn't freeze much here, only maybe 10 times a winter and never snows either so should enough hopefully.
@@SilverCymbal OMG! It worked. I removed the bleeder screw on top of each anti siphon valve. Put the rubber tip into that tiny hole. Perfect air tight fit. But it didn't work at first, had to turn the solenoid to the open position. Wa la. I'd post a pic but youtube doesn't allow. I hit u up on Facebook. A good method for someone like me
@@kevindelk Thats awesome, and now you can do it every year too. Thank you for the FB mention too I really appreciate that so much!
Hey great video! Question how would a mini air compressor that you use in the car and plug into the cigarette lighter in your car? Would it be strong enough?
No unfortunately those ones are fine for tires but for this they just won't have enough ooopmh to do it.
What hose reel are you using?
Its a Hozelock I bought at a garden center maybe 20 years ago. I love it, it is a narrow hose but the reel works very well. This is the current version of it: amzn.to/2GqsOBc I paid maybe $60 all those years ago.
This yelow connector style is realy polular in poland. Is made by company named gardena (i think it's orginal, but not shure), and is still sold today. part number GARDENA 18215-29 , but there are cheper alternatives.
Sorry, but these tips will not help everyone. you can buy an air nozzle to garden female 3/4" at menards for under $10. As for the computer controller, 3 min is only good for a certain compressor capacity. If it's a pancake that's too much time as it'll never build back necessary pressure. For a huge compressor 3 min is too much as it will dry out and possibly burn up the plastic gears in the heads. Just let the compressor (whatever size) build up pressure and open one zone at a time and watch it until it sprays air consistently for like 30 sec.. I have a 20 gallon with a 5 HP motor that can't handle one zone for more than 30 seconds, so 3 minutes would not get me anywhere and it'll deplete the tank.
Jesus is LORD 🙏
That’s gr8 if everyone’s in-ground sprinkler system is like yours but it doesn’t do the rest of us any good...😐
My install is very typical for a New England installation. other areas can be different. I hope it can still provide some ideas depending on what you have,
Silver Cymbal ALL-GOOD, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS...👍
Misleading title for what I was looking for :(
What were you looking for?