How to Install LS3 Crankshaft. Proper Torque Sequence on Bottom End Assembly. 3rd Gen Camaro
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- GM LS3 Bottom end assembly after checking bearing clearances. Assembly lube is a must before proceeding with this step. Proper torque sequence when installing LS crankshaft on gen4 block. TTA bolts and specs with torque degrees.
Crankshaft/Main Sequence.
1st. 1-10 1st pass 15 Ib Ft.
2nd 1-10 2nd pass 80 degrees.
3rd 11-20 1st pass 15 lb ft.
4th 11-20 2nd pass 51 degrees.
5th M8 end cap bolts 18 lb ft. with silicone sealant on threads. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Man that is the Iroc-Z year I love. Man I remember when they were new.
It is not the threads but the back side of the bolt head that needs the sealant for the last 10 small side bolts.
lookin sweet man. was making me nervous not mentioning the side load bolts. ive never built an ls but ive seen a couple at the machine shops getting put together
Ya I forgot to mention it at the end. Had to add it in real quick and post it in the description.
Nice job.
Cpl questions,
What kind of assembly lube are you using.
Did you check crank shaft end play?
Care to share your machine shop name?
I'm here in mn also, just west of the city's.
A cool way of checking how hard the crank spins as you go is use a small inch pound torque wrench on the damper bolt. Can also see once all the pistons are in how much "drag" you have.
Thanks man it's definitely a learning process this was my first engine I've ever built there's so much to learn still. I'm the kind of guy that just goes for it though. You'll never learn if your scared to fail.
No he did not check the crank end play. It needs to be .005 or your engine will be toast!
@@aphil4581 To be fair, you don't know that he didn't check the end play. Just because something gets left out of a video on CZcams doesn't mean it wasn't done. Also, a lot of the videos on CZcams are people that are building an engine for the first time so hopefully newbies that come across these videos will do plenty of research and consult more than just 1 source before diving in.
@@pjstartv6798 Life is not fair. You should go back to playing video games. Your pathetic at commenting on real world automotive applications. Talk to me when your half done with some sort of trade school degree or researched more than a source as you put it.
I would wait to install the SFC. Get it under complete weight.
That's what I was thinking to.
Good video buddy. Definitely helped me out. Do you happen to have the link for that degree wheel?
Thanks Man here's the link for the tool let me know if it works. www.jbtools.com/lisle-28100-torque-angle-meter/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD9kaWBWfb7VllRZbfKBIh3MRyjx6XlMLEMySW05I5tIzfyS3_JQ0e4aAo42EALw_wcB
Sounds good really appreciate it.
What is the purpose of (I’m assuming that’s what it is) the ground clamp?
@@Lagrange1186 It's a convenient way to hold the angle Guage from spinning while torquing/tighting the bolts.
@@Brandon-LSX Where can I get these sheets printed? Also how do I know if I have TTY or TTA?
Do you know what the main bearing clearance is for an LS2 crank is? All stock nothing special. Trying to look at the repair manual and I can't find it. Some say between .0001-.0003 not sure if that is correct.
I can't tell you off the top of my head. I remember mine was around .00015 I belive.
It's a shame you left out checking your bearing clearances as well as setting the thrust bearing after the first sequence of tightening the inner bolts to 15ft lbs. These are both super important steps but hopefully newbies will consult multiple sources so they get all of the important information.
Yeah this deep in a engine everyone should be doing there own research anyways. Each engine is so different with different combo's so my clearances might not be spec for someone else's build or if they have iron block vs aluminum and so on. I also used plastic guage to spec mine which isn't always accurate. Didn't want to give any wrong info on something as important on clearances.
@@Brandon-LSX Understandable decision to leave it out and I applaud you for covering your own ass. However, for all LS engines being built for street cars regardless of iron or aluminum block the general rule for main bearing clearances is between .0015 and .002 when using plastigage. If it's not within those specs you should talk to a machine shop about having them precision measured and getting the correct clearances.