ATS 505 CRO vs. OIL CONSUMPTION | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 19
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- čas přidán 4. 02. 2023
- We follow the instructions on the bottle, then drive the car to see if oil consumption has been reduced. Then we scope the engine for a surprising observation. We might have a lot of room for improvement. Let me know what you think in the comments!
Music:
Seasons by Telecasted
#oilburner #stuckrings #pistonrings #1zz
Borescope: Depstech WF-25
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this CZcams channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. - Jak na to + styl
This corolla has had more oil changes than any one in existence.
😂😂
Nah I got it beat. I change my oil every two weeks....... Don't ask why
@@sleepybear7642 I do the same thing to all the used cars I have bought; I do it one a month for a year though .
This is one of the great things about having an oil burning car, you are constantly putting new oil in.
As any older well used auto should. My 83 rolla wagon appreciates it every 2-2.5k miles, or two weeks when I drove it hard everyday. Originally I wanted to yank out the 4ac anchor, but after an in depth tune up I couldn’t bring myself to separate her from its home. Well over 430,000 confirmed miles before the odometer slowed to a stop. Lol.
She’s driven to Vancouver Canada then to Tijuana and back north. The top of pikes peak and crater lake. Battled the summer heat in central Ca for 4 months hauling about 12,000lbs. I have done my part to kill her but she still never misses a beat. Becky is my dirty little Brazilian girl.
This truly is a valuable series. Now the whole internet can see what ACTUALLY works for treating oil burning and what doesn't.
Thanks! That's what I'm hoping!
This!!!
I agree, I'm looking forward to the yamalube episode
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY BTW. "Poking a hole in the oil filter" is for top mount oil filters, and not for bottom mounts like yours.
I can appreciate that you have tried various things to fix this issue. As a master Toyota technician I can promise you that the only “fix” is to pull the pistons out of drill additional drains AND install aftermarket rings from some company such as Hastings, Mahle, or another reputable aftermarket manufacturer. The OE rings simply don’t have enough tension for a long term solution.
Thanks for the input. Just trying to prove or disprove the "snake oils" here. ... Still, we have reduced consumption from 1.25 quarts in 300 miles to 1.25 quarts in 800-1000 miles ... so something seems to have worked -- a little.
@@shermanbird3248 I wish I had the young body to go with the accumulated learning. Youth is so wasted on the young.
Mine and two friends 1985 Toyota truck's ate 2.5qts/3K oil change. Toyota stated "within specs." I traded mine for a Chevy 3500 and my other friend a F-350. Neither ate oil and were dependable. My other friend marched outside of Toyota of Carlsbad for a week with a sign that read "My truck eats 2.5qts of oil every 3,000 miles. How about yours?" He got a new shortblock. The tech stated that Toyota got a bad batch of piston rings that didn't exert enough outward pressure on the cylinder walls preventing them from working properly. Stuff happens Toyota. That's why I bought a vehicle from you.
Dealership mechanics are always so uppity and sure of themselves. Lol.
Well I'm here to say you're wrong. You cam get rings free and stop consumption (half the time), even on those low tension rings. Pull the plugs, mix 2 parts B-12 chemtool and 1 part auto Trans fluid together and pour a few ounces into each cylinder, then cover the holes. Every 4 hours or so rotate the engine by hand both directions a bit and add a few more ounces so the pistons stay covered. Keep doing this for a weekend, then crank over the engine with the starter and the plugs still out to blow any liquid out of the cylinders and then reassemble, change the oil immediately, and watch in awe that your oil burning ceased without having to tear the engine apart. Its not rocket science. Keep all the carbon deposits that are sticking the rings soaked in a solution that disolves and softens carbon for a long enough amount of time and eventually the rings arent stuck.
Thank you Toyota expert. This should end it for all those who over glorify Corollas...
Next oil change; use a solo drinking cup to hold the filter after you loosing it. Your hand will be clean and the oil spill is contained
Thats pretty slick! No pun intended! Gonna try that.
Brilliant!
whats wrong spelling a little oil while changing filters, you fingers fall of after that?
Red Solo cup I fill you up let's have a party! 😂
Tony Keith I guess. 😢
Thanks for this. Rubber gloves and placing the oil drain tub are not the most effective methods, I still always end up spilling a few drops.
Love these tests! They are hugely helpful to everybody who owns a GDI engine. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Excellent work again Dave. Continued to really enjoy this experiment you are on. CHEERS!
Thank you! Cheers back at you, Thomas!
Love the science behind your work!
Your compression test improved so that's a difference. I say that because I missed your last video so I just watched it after this video.
You are a dedicated man, sir.
I been following your oil burning journey as well. I have gotten great results from BG EPR flushes. I've done two of them in 6k miles on my daily driver, an '06 Scion xB. It has 156k miles on it now. I bought my xB at 149k miles and it burned 1 qt. per 300 miles or per tank of gas. the xB only burns maybe 1 quart every 1200 miles now. I will say I have put YAMALUBE ring clean, BG 44K and any fuel cleaner that contains Naptha in it, almost every gas fill up for the 6k miles. The ring clean is highly concentrated with naptha in it. Look forward to watching your success with your '02 'rolla.
Thanks! And BG EPR might be after Yamalube.👍
Ive been follwing you while having that same issue. Ive decided that im going to have to rebuild the engine with new pistons and rings. I reccommen anyscan a30m bluetooth obd2 code reader. Its 200 bucks, free updates and has bidirectional controls. For 100 bucks more than the bluedriver it is more than twice the tool with generic obd2 and manufacture specific protocols. Even on my audi it finds all 25 modules. Ive also noticed that driving around town i use way less but on the highway i use quite a bit of oil. I also notice that i burn oil on deceleration. I think that the increased vacuum from the throtle valve closing and the engine rpms still being high, is allowing oil past the rings. Car runs fine and doesnt smoke except the occasional puff when coming to a stop and taking off
I used both the CRO oil and fuel treatments at the same time and very happy with results. 2014 Honda CRV. Used half a bottle of each. Will use second halves just before next oil change.
Did it reduce oil consumption for you, Jeff?
I saw that you poured 505 CRO into a cold engine. When I used BG 109 EPR or Luqui Moly engine flush, I made sure engine is at operating temp before pouring the solution in.
No
Why @@LITTLEROCK2517
Love watching the Corolla videos! Keep em coming! Hoping for 1,200 / quart!
Thanks!
Interesting conclusion about one piston working properly. Keep up the great work! When it finally dies, I suggest an autopsy.
Lol me too
I like your oil experiments. I really like your filming of your drives. Really neat scenery, with some pretty good music. Very enjoyable and relaxing. Thank you.
Thank you so much for your kind comment!!
I would add a oil catch can in line with the pcv hose from the valve cover to the intake. This help determine if oil is being consumed through the pcv system, or by the oil control rings. Both results would indicate worn or clogged oil control rings, but it would be interesting to know
I'm impressed how dirty the oil became from just running the in the engine for 10 minutes! Might have to try it out myself!
Anywhere from a 1/2 a quart to a full qt of oil will remain in an engine, you are seeing the mix of old and new. It is known in the industry as a Short Volume Oil Change.
His "testing" is more anecdotal than scientific.
He even essentially admits "he should've checked codes, it's been idling more because it's cold.... I might need a new thermostat.. I don't know how to do a compression test.."
Not sure why I even watched this.
Feels like time I'll get never get back.
....and I'll stick to project farm and better done testing.
Something that I did for my old MR2 roadster (same motor) to make the dipstick easier to read is to drill a series of tiny holes in the dipstick in between the high and low marks. Love these videos, keep fighting the good fight!
Great tip!
Straight through or just indents?
@@Yohane350 straight through
Thanks for that clue! The MR2 S has the worst dip stick i have ever seen
enjoyed your video, thanks. Lots of variables in high mileage engines. Your compression test tells me your piston ring/cylinder assembly is sound mechanically. Could be there is crud buildup on rings but if so it is likely to require a long term approach to really do effective cleaning. I have some high mileage experience and found that a persistent use of Marvel or Chemtool, even just ATF in the oil does help with engine deposit cleanup. I have never had much faith in the high $$ super duper engine chemicals. Best bang for the buck is the tried and proven lower cost stuff been around a long time, just keep at it with using them and be patient. You might also be surprised to find oil use due to another cause, possibly even a valve train issue where seals are breaking down, sure to thoroughly check out the emissions system and especially the PCV circuit for proper function. Also keep in mind that oil weight and brands of oil do much effect oil loss past the rings and any additive into the oil such as solvents are going to affect viscosity and promote faster oil consumption. Get that thermostat fixed, you could be surprised at the change in engine operation that results from proper temperature, oils are designed to work best at the RIGHT temperatures.
Hi Dave! Nice to see the things you try. I have seen some of your experiments and that you have spent a tremendous time and effort on reducing that oil consumption. I have an old suzuki swift (like the geo metro 1.3 in the US). Well oil burning has an impact on the catalyst as well. I tried Mannol's catalytic system cleaner and it helped with my oil consumption a bit and much-much less black soot on the exhaust. I will do another cleaning to see whether it makes further progress. It doesn't cost much, maybe worths a shot. I also did many oil changes, engine flush, oil additives, pcv valve replacement... I had performance issues for to a clogged catalyst. Greetings from Europe.
Greetings, and thanks for the recommendation!
Try the BG brand engine cleaners and such... That's my number 1 brand in my garage
The pine scent additive made me wonder what was in this stuff. Their ingredients are listed as trade secrets, however if you dig a little deeper, the exposure safety bits help narrow down what class certain things fall into. Taking that into account, I'm making an educated guess at xylene and/or benzene, turpentine, oxygenated peroxide, acetone and a fragrance additive. Amounts and ratios, uhh... 🤷♂
Thank you for keeping these experiments going and mostly self-contained in one episode (overall) without the baiting tactics of spreading them into five videos!
Thank YOU for the input. Good stuff to mull over.
So not much different from B12
@@hotrodray6802 Pretty much. From the few of these I've looked into, they're all about the same outside of select anti-wear additives and varying percentages in content. It's not much of a surprise really; there's only so many compounds that will combust in the engine and act as a mild chem-based 'abrasive' carbon remover without gumming up in the fuel system in liquid form or harming downstream sensors. My suspicion is that the order of B12 versus this one wouldn't have changed the outcome as they're only going to do so much. There are more aggressive cleaners that would work, except that they would detrimentally affect other systems moreso than thinning out the oil.
Oh, it's ***organic*** peroxides
Chem mfgs will use masking agents in their formulations to hide other obvious odors. I bet your smelling Winter Green, same stuff in Marvel Mystery Oil. Does it smell like it?
awesome work BTW. Thanks for doing this. This is a frequently occurring problem with Toyota Engines.
Thanks for watching!
Have you considered BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner and the Rinse Oil regimen? It seems this is the daddy of all engine cleanings. Seeing the sludge on the filter housing makes me think there might be a lot of it remaining in the engine and crankcase, which could be soaking up a a lot of these products' abilities to dilute the sludge in other areas of the engine. I've seen the difference from before and after with the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner and it's astounding. I do suspect there may be some damage to the walls of the Toyota's cylinders that may be contributing to the lack of improvement with most of these products.
Been following your videos as my '06 Ranger 2.3L has the same consumption problem. I used the CRO twice, and sadly there's been no improvement. It did clean a lot of gunk from the motor, but consumption continues (actually got a little worse after the second usage). My Ranger is using about 1qt every 500 miles: no leaks, no smoke, no carbon on the plugs, etc. The motor has now just over 90K on the clock.
That 505 CRO is absolutely fantastic it really does work
What did the 505 cro oil pour in treatment do for you,?
That was brilliant !
Great video and thanks for sharing it. I've done the 505 treatment 2 weeks ago on a 2013 2.4 Honda GDI engine with 160000 miles, that was burning more than a quart of oil between oil changes, sometimes 2 quarts. I have about 100 miles on it and haven't driven it much yet, waiting on brake parts. I know it's the rings because last year the valve cover was leaking and I replaced it. What really surprised me was the valves and valve train look like it was installed last week, no stains or discoloration anywhere. So I suspected the rings after that. I also cleaned the throttle body and installed a catch can. I can notice the difference right away in mileage and performance but have driven it much since until I get new brakes on it. It's the wife's car and no need to drive it if I don't have to. I'll let you know how it's doing when she gets back home and drives it every day. How this helps you also.
That's awesome, Rod. 👍 Please do keep us posted on how your consumption goes!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY After I treated the carI shut down for the day. I still need to clean the throttle body the next morning before I clanged the oil. I still had some oil additive left and after cleaning the throttle body added it while it was still running. and let it sit until it was just warm. I have close to a 1000 miles on it now and it's just under the full mark about 1/16 of an inch! Remarkable on how much that helped! It should make the whole 7000 miles to the next oil change without adding any. I check it every day. In your car I would take about a 1/2 oz and pour it in the cylinder on top of the piston and let it sit overnight on a warm engine, then blow it out by cranking the engine over the next morning without the plugs in it. I believe your rings and oil scraper are frozen in place and will be next to impossible to free up. Might try this as a last ditch effort to try?
Berryman Chemtool Parts Cleaner, the good stuff in the 1 gallon cans. it's used to dissolve hard carbon from engine parts, pistons, cylinder heads. Use your 12 hr piston soak method. Perform Italian Tune Up afterwards, 4k rpm for 20 minutes to raise chamber temps, then 5-6 wide open throttle runs, until the transmission shifts.
Just fixed two EVAP leaks on my 2002 hyundai. A couple of metal tubes were crunchy rust. Easy fix, and a necessary repair. No more engine light.
Glad to hear it!
One thing that improved oil consumption in my old Corsa was treating the engine with Extralube ZX1. Then on subsequent oil changes add a token 25ml to each oil change. That stopped it from using oil in blow-by as ZX1 does tend to clean the metal it treats. Whether or not it would help your problem I do not know.
Adding 25ml the coolant unstuck a thermostat switch too. Please keep in mind that heat tends to harden neoprene oil seals in the engine so they work less efficiently. They may need replacing or rejuvenating.
A small amount of ZX1 in the fuel can lubricate and clean the upper cylinders as well.
Looking at the plugs you have problems with #3 & #4 same as your bore scope indicated. Being very old school, had my first car a 1952 Plymouth in 1964, I would treat the pistons from above, i.e. put my chemicals down the spark plug hole, turn the crank multiple times and wait for the chemicals to drain back before starting. In the old school we used a couple of tbs of diesel as the solvent. Stuck rings were common in the days of STP viscosity increaser and single weight non-detergent oils.
Great progress. Looking forward for continue with the Yamalube ring free 😊 It may also lower the oil consumption further with new valve stem seals if you consider it, i had a very good luck with that my Ford 2.0 pinto engine years ago. That Ford 2.0 pinto engine used 1 litre of oil every 160 miles before i changed the valve stems seal and after i changed them the oil consumption was lowered to 1/2 a litre every 6300 miles. I was stunned over the improvement. It's very interesting in a positive way to see what chemicals that works and even cures a oil consuming engine. As always great video 😊👍
Thanks :-) I actually did the valve stem seals a few videos back.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Ahh I'm sorry, my short memory comes to short 😅
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY My pleasure 😊
It’s zen and the art of vehicle maintenance ; good show.
Thanks Peter!
Good to see you got to run your tests. Interesting results as well.
Peace
#keepmovingsideways
Thanks again, Powerman :-)
It might turn out to have a single broken ring causing the issue.
@@texaspowerman I guess that's possible.🤔
You did your best in my humble opinion. No mas
I use a yogurt 1qt tub to unscrew filter after loose. Filter and oil are held. You may trim hard top lip on skinny filters! So clean!
As a 1zzfe owner i love these experiments
Great to hear!
You should try BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit! It's expensive, but it works as a personal mechanic I've used it before to clean out sludge build up and it leaves the engine looking and running like new!
I cant wait to see when you eventually tear it down and see what the rings look like. I have a VW Tiguan and it burns oil like a freight train. I theorize the rings have gotten carboned up and been physically damaged or just lost all tension which they had very little of in the first place.
Saved on my Playlist Cars. What a nice music too. You could C&C the cylinders, put new pistons and spark plugs
Hi dave, very interesting video series, have you tried 5w30 oil with SN-plus spec and or Chrysler MS-6395
FORD WSS-M2.
Because that additive is designed to keep soot away. (piston rings etc) and clean the engine.
Following the journey. Waiting for the miracle cure, so I can too implement the solution on my 08 XB. THX
Right there with you. With a 07 Scion TC...same miserable 2.4
2000 Celica...same!
Ok you have a talkative mew. I like the channel even more!
I have TVF and removed spark plugs...let it soak overnight. Started it, drove it...then changed the oil. My 04 accord and my 93 accord were both helped with oil burning because the rjngs were Carboned up...both had 250 k plus.. high mileage oil helps too....
Love the work
Much appreciated!
I bought the wally brand of engine cleaner ran it for 8 minutes changed oil and my engine light went out. Runs a lot smoother with more power; I had a camshaft sensor that was completely gunked up so I changed both of them too but I did this before the cleaner. I did the cleaner because the engine light was still on. I wasn't experiencing any oil consumption. The wally brand is basically diesel with some other additives. I would not recommend kerosene since it has no additives that protect your seals.
I think this is a great video that shows the limitations of these cleaners. It all depends on what may be wrong. Obviously once your engine is clean you should change the oil at the recommended time from here on in. Lastly I don't recommend anything since no matter what you are doing this at your own risk.
Ahh the 1zzfe… im having exact same problem with engine drinking oil.. here to watch
I'm guessing you have changed pcv valve an all that craziness. An I'd dump 1/4 bottle down each hole an leave it sit.
Super cool video man !
Hi Dave! Thank you for sharing your experiments is very interesting for us every episode of these. I have a Ford Transit smiley 2.5DI that burns oil. I bought it in this condition and I try to do some experiments like you. A friend who works in local Toyota dealer suggested me a product called "Toyota engine flush - for diesel engine" is e geniue Toyota product. I flush the engine, changed oil in the 150km that I've done till now I saw that the exhaust not smell burned oil and when i remove the oil cap whith running engine the smoke from inside desapear. I'll come again with the oil consumption.
Thanks ... and yes, keep us posted on the consumption!
I used the ATS chemical 505 cro oil system treatment in my 2014 Hyundai sonata 2.4L. As you know these cars are notorious for burning oil out the exhaust in the form of blue smoke. Since I did the treatment and changed my oil, my car went from 23-24 mpg to 28 mpg. I am now 800 miles into the fresh full synthetic oil change since the oil system treatment. I check the oil dipstick constantly. It has been 800 miles of driving and I have burnt no oil. I still have the same level on the dipstick, a smidge over the F dot on the dipstick. Before the oil system treatment, I was consuming at least a quart by this point, now I' am consuming no oil. I also experimented on my 2010 Hyundai accent gs with 176000 miles on it. It has burnt oil ever since I can remember, to the point where I had to add a few quarts between oil changes. I added 4 oz of marvel mystery oil to the crankcase and drove it for 200 miles and then changed the oil and filter. I have now clocked 700 miles since the oil change and the dipstick shows that it's still a bit above the F dot on the dipstick as well. I hope this information can help other people.
Still would like to see you use Rislone High Mileage in each tank, but that's a more long term attack.
This project is unlike anything else in the CZcams 'car repair' space. Fascinating. But I predict that the cylinders are just worn out and will always leak oil. 😢
Sounds more like weak or too soft of piston rings,tom
It's to unstick unclog the rings , right . Then just remove sparkplugs and pour a thimble of the stuff into each chamber and leave for half day. But if you do that, then simple diesel might also work just ad well .
I am going to suggest Berkebile 2+2 gum cutter again. I would remove the spark plugs and spray a good amount in each cylinder letting it sit for a couple of days with the spark plugs in to keep it from evaporating. You need time for the product to get into the piston drain holes. I would then drive around a bit and treat it again the same way.
I have a customer with a 2003 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix) with the 1ZZFE engine. At 190,000 miles, I rebuilt the engine because one of the family members took the car on a trip, the engine burned the oil all out, and the engine seized up. I rebuilt that engine with updated design pistons. At 340,000+ miles now, it doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes!!!
I have a 2006 that has 273,000 miles, which probably burns a little bit of oil, but not that much. I wish they didn't discontinue the car. Would have loved an updated drivetrain with a similar body design.
Try Lucas complete engine treatment by adding recommended amount to the oil. I use it in a 2009 Camry with the notorious inline 4 cylinder engine known for burning oil. 103500 on motor and am using Pennzoil 5w-20 synthetic. Have 3100 miles on this change and am down 1/8” below the 1/2 quart mark. Does use more oil on conventional Pennzoil.
Laurens Road in Greenville at around 9:50. I drive a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and the Low Oil Level light came on again after 4,000 miles between oil changes. I put Sea Foam High Mileage into crankcase the other day. Seemed to help out. I tried the carbon cleaning in the gas tank👍. Will do the same thing with carbon cleaning in the crankcase before the next oil change.
you may want to try filling the cylinders with B12 and letting that sit overnight. vac out what you can and just crank it to blow out the rest, change the oil after that.
I did this on my 96 K1500 5.7L pickup and got a 30-40 psi increase in compression. Other that that the only way to free up the rings is to remove the pistons and clean them and or put a new set in while your at it.
Thanks for the absolutely incredible effort in this experiment! I just wondered .... have you tried using oven cleaner in the bores over night? There’s a few examples of using foam cleaner (mr muscle oven cleaner) in the uk to clean the carbon off of variable vane turbos to great success! Videos on CZcams .
I suppose the foam keeps things hanging in place for longer but maybe in the bore you could just use the pour in stuff.
Obviously drop the oil as soon as The bores drain.
Great videos 👏👏👏
I haven't yet, but thanks for the suggestion!
Given your statement on the smell, I suspect that the key ingredient is pine oil. A known cleaner in other engine cleaners such as BG's EPR and Justice Bros Emission cleaner. Also, given that amount of miles on the engine; there could be some scoring from piston slap. Which you couldn't chemically repair. A borescope would answer this question. I would also add, seeing the cold climate the vehicle is subject too would cause more consumption due to slower ring expansion.
Try a product called FTC decarboniser. Amazing stuff for cleaning carbon build up from around the rings, also deglazes the bores of engines that haven’t been run in properly.
You're lucky to be in a place that permits ongoing check engine lights! OTOH, the Corolla's evap codes seem very similar to what I saw in my 20 y.o. Rodeo. First, a generic code, then a more specific one -- also to do with unexpected values during purge. A pretty good smog mechanic didn't have the time to diagnose a bad charcoal cannister. They can be bad enough to send particulates up to the purge valve and prevent it from closing during non-purge cycles. That can throw off the mix enough to cause the exhaust to prematurely age the converter.
If you test the purge valve by disconnecting power to it, then there should be no suction (as tested with a strip of paper) at the inlet from the cannister line. Before replacing the valve, the line needs to be blown clean with big air -- or you can install a small engine fuel filter in the line just before the valve. After that code cleared for me, I had to replace an O2 sensor with a bad heater. The converter isn't throwing any codes yet, but it was marginal several years ago -- so it's anyone's guess who'll need the demolition sledgehammer first . . .!
Thanks for the tips Robert 👍
Have you tried berryman b12 or kreen in the crank case? The oil control ring is the culprit, if it gets coked up then your oil consumption goes up. The crank case oil is what will clean the oil control ring if there's solvent in the oil.
wow! I am not the only one that had a hard time taking off the cap! :)
I'm very close to your mileage with a camry 2.4. I had pretty good improvement from 1qt every 300 miles just like yours to 1qt every 800-900 from using BG EPR. At first I went some 700 miles without losing any oil at all, but then it immediately started losing it again, but much less. I'm going to try it again when the time comes to change it. Maybe will let it run a bit more before draining it.
Ditto. 2009 Camry - f'd piston drain holes 😔
We use it at the Honda dealership I work at. We run it at ~3000 rpm for at least 30 minutes with the cleaning and rinse oil with a new filter each time.
I own a 2019 Corolla with 70,000 miles. I recently started using BG EPR as preventative maintenance. Yeah, it is expensive but the BG products are some of the very few that have a lot of evidence to back them up a lot of very good reviews and I’ve seen some crazy pictures of before and after. I got mine for only $11 each on Amazon because I bought a four pack for like $44.
Toyota actually HAD a campaign for the dealer rebuilding the engine (replace pistons) under factory warranty up to 150,000 miles on the clock, IIRC. New updated pistons ARE the only cure!
check for slop in your timing belt or chain. late intake valve timing pulls vacuum inside engine sucking oil fumes into open intake valve from another cylinder had this with a 351w.
I am the original owner of a 2005 Corolla with 300,000+ miles on it. Have done all oil changes myself every 5,000 miles. Haven’t used synthetic. Doesn’t use a drop of oil between changes. Always very black when removed. Have two Honda Civics, 2006 (200,000+ miles) and 2011 (150,000 miles). They both use oil. Thinking about trying 505CRO and CRF on the Civics.
Those are pretty decent size heads on their 4 cylinder motors. This engine has a lot of potential.
To burn oil.
I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla XSE and it's looking beautiful with Redline fuel system cleaner. I drive Roughly around 100 miles everyday and it's got 120k miles on it and it's idling smooth.
Perhaps Amsoil engine flush might work?
I'm running Amsoil on all my vehicles and it's doing well so far.
I like your background music!
Pine Sol ! I used went to quick lube once and folks below were going nuts. I told them I ran Pine Sol to clean the engine. 😊
Your joking right?
B-12 fixes a lot, cleans up Evap systems, can bring old gas back to life, clean injectors up. Carbs and have used it to help remove gas/oil varnish, throttle body and EGR. Good Video. 👍
Thx. You run B-12 in the crankcase or gas?
@@aidankirby8412 In the gas.
I use RISLONE engine treatment at each oil change. It works. You just substitute a half quart of oil with a 16 oz bottle of RISLONE during your oil change. Do this every oil change. RISLONE is a mild solvent in an oil based substrate. It's less corosive than engine flushes. And it clears out stuck lifters and cleans rings and pistons while you drive.
I have a '09 Pontiac vibe with the 2.4L 2AZFE toyota engine in it. It was consuming 1 quart every 800 miles. I tried the BG MOA, EPR, 44K kit treatment. It made it a little better, 1 quart/1000 miles after that. Next I tried the berrymans b-12 24 hour piston soak next. After 1000 miles of driving my oil level still shows full. Fingers crossed, hopefully this fixed it. Thanks fir your videos.
I've got a 96 Saturn SL2 (1.9 DOHC) that has 210,000 and burns a quart of oil every 350 miles. I carry 1-2 jugs of oil in the trunk on long trips. I've done the Marvel soak as well as the Chemtool with no luck. Maybe this would help out my ride? Either way, I'm taking her to 300,000+ miles because the AC still rocks and I'm getting near 40mpg around town by pushing in the clutch and coasting whenever I can. Maintenance is an absolute piece of cake and I do it all myself which saves tons of $$$. 🥰
Bump your thermostat to 205 or higher, this will help oil use , also run 25% Marvel's mystery oil all the time , I cleaned a 350 chevy this way and a 3800 gm engine that was terrible,
On the 3800 I would put a quart of Berryman in while engine was hot, let it idle 20 minutes then let it set a hour , drain oil , then 25 % Marvel's in oil , drive it 3k , repeat .
It totally cleaned inside of motor , car ran for years after
That's crazy. I'm from abbeville and instantly recognized where you are driving.
Great information and testing. Now a subscriber. Along the lines with 505 CRF and 505 CRO, did you consider the use of the ATS 505 GDI carbon dissolver and treat the pistons as with other tests (remove plugs, soak, rotate, repeat)? Either way I’m pulling for a product to give the results we all have been waiting for. Thanks for sharing.
Fellow oil burner (2011 GM 5.3-AFM delete)
Thanks! I actually didn't know there was another ATS additive. Thanks for the suggestion!
Hey Dave I love your videos, keep up the great work. Please can you try liqui moly engine flush and Shell Rotella T6 diesel oil
I've been thinking a lot about the diesel oil. So many people have recommended DMSO, which I found is an additive in Rotella. That is definitely on my list. I'd have to do the flush and oil in two separate videos though, so that we'd know which variable had the most effect. Thanks for the recommendations!
Have you tried Restore engine treatment?
Helps to reduce oil consumption in my Scion xA.
lil tip from a former lube tec, always loosen the oil filter before putting the drain plug back in. It will release oil trapped in the lines do to vacuum.
What?
And so it goes...Again, thx.
Great series! What is the code reading app you are using? It looks like it returns a lot more info.
Blue Driver
Great Series mate, i have similar problems with my mitsubishi 4G64 engine hence why i been watching your series for last 5hours so far "and hoping" hehehe, would be great to try "liqui moly" or valvoline fuel injector cleaners as they are common here in Australia and i had great success with moly on my injectors so maybe they will free the rings also.last i looked it up liqui moly was majority zylene based like berrymans b12.
Thanks, and great info :-)
Couple of things since the last video. That's a lot more oily/carbon deposit looking on the piston heads than before.
I do like Gumout's in the gas tank cleaners. Though some CZcamsrs have tested it heavy and it doesn't make much difference, it doesn't hurt for maintenance.
I have a 2012 Scion Xb with the notorious bad piston/rings that uses oil like heck . So I am going to try Auto-Rx.
I have an 04 Civic EX with the same problem. I've tried all of this. Berryman piston soaks, 505CRO, Yamalube ring free, Redline fuel additive, XADO engine flush which I liked. I bit the bullet & purchased a mini blow by pack from Pro Maintenance Additives. It's expensive, but will get multiple treatments for the fuel & oil. Scott with the company is a very knowledgeable old time mechanic, & basically told me after many helpful emails that if their product doesn't fix my issue, then mechanical intervention would be necessary. The yamalube cleaned my piston heads nicely though. I used a 12oz bottle in about 11gal gas. But, went immediately to an engine flush with the Pro Maintenance Additives, & a dose of their decarbonizer in my fuel. I hope this is finaly the combo to fix my problem. I'll let you know if it does.
Please do keep us posted!
Did it work?
It is a multi stage process with the Pro Maintenance Additives kit. So far I have done the 1st initial engine flush at max concentration, & burned through about 20 gal of fuel with the max concentration of decarbonizer. They recommend 1st 50 gal of fuel at max concentration with the FTC Decarbonizer, then cut back half for continued use. With the engine flush, it is an initial higher dose using fresh oil, then a half dose after 600 to 1200 miles after the 1st flush to give the decarbonizer in the fuel time to do its job in the combustion chambers. I'm almost at the 600 mile mark since the initial flush, & hope to do the follow up flush in a week or so. That will be interesting because you can drive for up to 6hrs on the 2nd flush with the chemical in the crankcase. After that, they have dosage recommendations for continued maintenance flushes. I was very surprised by how black the fresh new oil came out after the 1st flush considering you change the oil & filter in your car before you do the flush, then change them both again after before you drive. My oil was only at 800 miles & not very dirty looking before the flush with fresh oil & filter, & had previously done an oil flush with the 505CRO. I just got on my 3rd tank of gas with the FTC Decarbonizer. My tank roughly holds 13 gal. So I have this one & 2 more to burn through at full strength for optimal results. I just started noticing a difference halfway through the 2nd tank. Not nearly as much blue smoke at idle, a little better on mpg, better response. But the interesting thing is I had a couple of instances where I was on the freeway & noticed a big puff of smoke from my rear view, & my check engine light came on. Everything was running fine & actually felt more pep after. The code read a p420 for catalytic sensor, but went away on its own before I even got home. Wondering if they were little chunks of carbon that passed through the headers & burnt up in the cat? Apologies for the long response, but so far it's too early to tell. I am or was still burning oil up till now but has only been 2 weeks since I started the process. I'll be using the borescope to look at the piston heads & cylinder walls after the 2nd oil flush in the next week or so. Should be close to or on the 4th tank of decarbonizer by then too. The car still runs which is #1. Hopefully it's getting a lot cleaner in the meantime. Will keep you posted.
@@NorthernMoss81 The more info the better 👍🏻 thanks for keeping us in the loop 🙂
Modern thermostats fail in the open position. This prevents overheating, but prevents the vehicle from coming up to full temperature.
Hello! I’ve recently found your channel while viewing similar type content. I have 2 points to make. 1) I know your oil consumption journey is making entertaining and monetized content, I don’t know to what extent you profit from the videos, nor do I have an issue with it. That said, at this point in your journey, why not go right for the haymaker product/system and just do the BG Dynamic Engine Restoration process? If anything is going to fix it at this point, it’s that. 2) IDK what the oil approvals of this model specifies but perhaps switching to a “Euro” style LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) spec oil, developed mostly for turbo gas direct injected engines might help. My thinking here is, whatever progress you’ve made in reducing oil consumption vis cleaning/freeing the oil control rings, may be better maintained by this type of oil. The additive package of the LSPI spec oils contain reduced calcium as well as other traditional compounds that have been found to excessively promote carbon build up in these Euro TGDI engines. This spec oil isn’t going to solve your consumption issues but may help maintain the progress you’ve made.
Will doing these procedures foul up your spark plugs? Will the residue stick to the plugs?
From personal experience. First. If you use one of the cleaners and immerse a heavily carboned up part. An intake, exhaust valve. A piston with rings. And it doesn't dissolve the carbon. I mean carbon just falls off of it. Diluted with oil it's probably not going to work very well. Worn rings are one thing. A Jeep came into the shop and we found hardly any compression in one cylinder. A low miles 4 cylinder. At the time NAPA had Siloo Hydra Valve Kleen. I poured a little bit in the dead hole and let it ooze out at TDC. Blew the cylinder out with air and flushed it with carb cleaner spray and kept adding a few ounces of the Kleen. Did that a few times and waited overnight. Flushed the cylinder with air and motor oil. Blew it out again dry. A compression test showed the rings were free. An oil change and report from the customer a month later told us the fix was good and he had no oil consumption.
Another lady ran her Subaru out of oil and drove it probably 50 miles with the engine light on. It was clacking with dry lifters and stunk like hell. We flushed it with fresh oil and a filter. It clacked bad. Put in a few cans of hydra valve kleen and ran it. The lifters freed, it stopped smoking from the tail pipe. Told the lady let's see after an oil change and filter. She drove it for years.
Carb dip worked on another engine straight down the plug holes. It had low compression and blew oil smoke. Oil pressure was good.
Berryman's carb dip has an oily layer on top to slow evaporation. It WILL dry out your skin immediately and leave a hand looking at a lobster claw, and the skin will peel off after a few days. It melts a plastic funnel. We dipped the top layer off and added it to the TDC cylinders and let it leak into the crank case. Flushed them with spray carb cleaner and air. Moved on to another pair of cylinders. Repeated it. Drained the oil, new filter. Did it again. Compression restored and oil consumption was normal.
Stuck rings and lifters are one thing. Worn out and time for a rebuild or replacement is another.
I owned a Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI that used oil at a fantastic rate, 1 liter for 100 miles. No smoke from the exhaust. I used some really aggressive carbon cleaner and let it soak in the cylinders for a few days. After that I changed the oil and used 10-W40 and added some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer. That did the trick, I went on a 300 mile drive, and no oil burned. It's been great ever since. The car only had 65000 miles on the clock.
What cleaner did you use?
I have had excellent results with a mixture of atf and mineral spirits, letting it go into the intake at high idle over 10 minutes per quart, running water through another round of atf /spirits and then changing the oil. I use the vacuum oriface on the Mercedes Benz 116-117 as they go into each port above the valve .
@@johnkelly4381 I am trying to get the things clean having disassembled engines for head gasket issues or something else that causes a water issue in the cyl . When you take it apart they are clean , and rings moving. Have had a 380sl that was going to also have a rear main seal, but it stopped leaking after the water treatment. When I was a kid old guys took a pop bottle of water and put it through the carb at 3-4000 and all a 16 oz glass recycle bottle would hold. Clouds of steam and carbon spattered from the exhaust
i think the plug needs to be replaced, there's some browning on the porcelain part of its body...good video, i was thinking of purchasing this too for my GTI. But after watching this...i'm guessing the Chemtool B12 may work. Right now I put Seafoam, Deep Creep, and WD40 and still no change.
Try running Rotella T6 5w-30 but if your cat converter is already shot I would do the Rotella T6 5w-40. You can get a 5 quart jug of the 5w-40 from Walmart for like $30 or less.
can it be used for preventative reasons? Ive got a GTI and wanna protect it from burning due to them being prone to do so. Thanks.
BTW your evap codes could be from a malfunctioned evap bypass valve on the canister. (It is what switches the vapor pressure sensor to watch the can pressure or the tank pressure.) If your car has a ccv on the airbox they are known to bleed off vacuum when sealed as well. You can test the ccv valve by unplugging it and just powering it directly with 12 volts to close the valve. Then test with simple hand vacuum pump and see if it holds vacuum. Repeat the power on and off multiple times. Never saw a ton of purge failures on these engines.
Thanks for the advice!
Interesting I had a 99 myself Mobil 1 most of its life great car but after 100k i started adding 8 oz of MM oil to each oil change I let it go with 150k no oil burn I have seen a number of your video's the ring free is a great fuel treatment i use in my boats and out door power equipment , If you try an other experiment like this after the run let the car sit over night and run again before changing the oil ,
I use the ATS 505 CRO and love it but I also have had great results from ATP AT-205 Re-Seal. It is a cheaper alternative and has worked for me on a few autos with visible oil leaks even a 2000 Subaru outback with a leaky rack and pinion.
They're completely different products. One (ATS 505) breaks down carbon in the engine. The other (AT-205) is meant to fix leaky gaskets by 'reconditioning' the gasket material.