Engrave Powder Coated Tumblers PERFECTLY with Fiber Laser Rotary and Ezcad!
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- FINALLY, the time has come to mark tumblers with a fiber laser, yes! A FIBER LASER. A perfect mark that shows off those gorgeous brush finished steel lines beneath the powder coat just like you would expect form a CO2 laser. You guys have been asking for this video for a LONG time so I hope it helps you and hope you see success. As usual, if you're struggling join our FREE discord server. We'd be happy to help you out.
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0:00 - Intro - Overview
0:44 - Rotary Setup Note
1:55 - Rotary Installation
2:05 - Lens Selection
3:03 - Adding the Tumbler
3:46 - Special Focus
4:19 - Leveling
5:02 - Special Setup Explanation
7:06 - Alignment
8:42 - Positioning
9:26 - Hatch Settings
10:52 - Parameter Settings
11:50 - RotaryMark Settings
13:03 - RTIC Marking
13:34 - RTIC Cleaning
14:19 - RTIC Final
15:07 - Yeti Mug Setup
15:50 - Yeti Marking
16:12 - Yeti Cleaning
16:35 - Yeti Final
17:34 - Thin Powder Coating
18:42 - Final Thoughts
20:13 - Outro - Supporting the Channel
Listen up! Laser engraving machines are inherently dangerous. The content this channel is for educational purposes only. Laser Everything LLC can not be held liable for any harm caused to any individual or personal property related to settings, activities, procedures, techniques, or practices described in whole or part on this CZcams channel. By watching this video you agree that you alone are solely responsible for your own safety and property as it pertains to this content. Do your own research before purchasing machines, materials or accessories. LE is viewer supported and probably earns commission when you buy stuff we link. - Věda a technologie
Hey Alex, thank you so much for this video tutorial. Just etched some mugs for a customer and those settings are absolutely perfect. saved me so much time.
Great to hear! So glad it's working for you!
Thank you for the awesome tutorials! My company bought these just for identification plaques, but it's amazing to see how much you can do with it if you love experimenting.
Thank you, from Paraguay!
You're very welcome! Glad you're enjoying it!
This video is GOLD - saved me so much time and effort! Thanks Alex!
You're welcome dude, thanks for swinging by!
Wow it's the reloading legend! Getting into fiber lasers too??
Biggest value for me was understanding that you can do a rotary line scan by setting the hatch line space equal to the Split Size. THANK YOU.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I just have to say how amazing this is and it’s saved me so much time
Thank you Alex and the Community
Ha! That's awesome! Love to hear it, thanks for watching and being a part of it!
Brilliant content this video saves so much time testing to get the perfect finish, Laser everything’s advice is always spot on.
Thanks Andrew!
We’ve got a pretty large order of Rtic cups to do and I’ve been struggling using the fiber to do these cups (was just going to use the C02). This is a life saver. Thank you!
So glad it helped you! Love reading comments like this!
Pure Awesomeness of video!!! you're are helping so many people with your videos!!!...am a yearly paid member of LMA, and is worth every cent!!! THANK YOU!!
Great to hear! Thanks for supporting the channel as well :D
Very informative and well done video. Love the technology and how it works.
Thanks for watching Rich 🙂
Excellent video! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Great video. Can’t wait to try this when my 3Plaser arrives.
Should work ok if you can get the lens situation sorted and find a compatible rotary.
This worked great! Thanks so much!!
Great to hear!
Awesome Video! Thanks!
No problem!
Thank you so much for such informative video! Wonderful content!
Glad you're getting value out of the content!
I can't wait to watch this!
It's a good one!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
So good can’t wait to try this defocused !
The one I tried made the stainless go a bit dark.
Surprised the magic eraser didn’t scuff the paint maybe because it’s tough powder coat. Just be careful with those magic erasers they do scuff some items and remove paint from walls etc it’s basically a very very fine sandpaper type device. Keep up the good work !
Happened to me with the CO2, the fix for me was to lower the power. On my CO2 from what i can gather, if you use to much power you essentially re-burn the soot and it makes it really hard to remove. On black tumblers i go 25 watts (20% on 80watt machine) watts of power & 150 mm/s and it they come out money with just a little bit of dawn dish soap to clean it up.
@@tangyboi6420 awesome thanks 😊
As always.....Thank you Alex!!!
You're most welcome Lionel, hope you enjoyed it!
BROOOOO YOU ARE THE BESSSTTTTT, THANK YOUUUUU!!!!
THANKS FOR WATCHINGGG!
Hi Alex the machine that you used in this video is 20 or 30 W? Thanks
You are talking about how you need to enter the focus distance in the parameters. Do you put in the normal distance or the distance plus the defocus?
I have been putting my typical focal distance and it's been working fine but the 5mm should make much of a difference. Either way should work about the same.
In another newer video you suggest using the galvo CO2 on this, and got much faster results I believe. Overall feedback on these 2 options?
Fiber is a viable option for those who don't have access to or the budget for a CO2 galvo machine. The CO2G though is a supremely better option though for all but the most intricate designs in which the fiber might have an edge.
what about using correction in lightburn not using a rotary... im curious what you did on focus there given the curve?
Can you do a full rotation and maximize imprint. I am assuming the chuck can make any cup level even the ones that are angled?
I really needed that de-focus trick though the sweet spot on my machine with my lens was 1.5mm
Nice!
Your videos have been so helpful with getting my laser dialed in, that subscribed to your academy to help you as well. I have some white powder-coated cups I want to engrave but turn the metal below the powder-coat black. Any suggestions on what setting I might try? Using the rotary I cannot do the Z Mark Black like with steel as it marks a single line at a time.
Please message the LE Support account on the LMA so we can help you with this! 😊
Do you have a video on laser engraving fully wrapped tumblers using a Cloudray Fiber Laser?
Alex, Great video. What machine are you using if you don't mind us asking ? We have allot of copper plated tumblers and Fiber Metal appears to be the ticket, but we weren't ready for a super high end machine and we were curious what you might recommend.
This was my 30w Mactron JPT fiber laser, links to them in the description :) Great machine.
When you marked the pint glass, did you adjust the angle of the rotary slightly to compensate for the taper and make the top surface parallel to the head?
I made the entire pint glass parallel from the top all the way down to the bottom. Taking your diameter from the center deals with the vast majority of the following distortion.
Im lost...my rotary only rotates when I set it to textmark. I dont have the rotary selections you have and im using Ezcad2. It works fine for text but logos just mark without the rotary moving.
Thanks for the video saved my bacon. I just need to learn how to do black marking on stainless tumblers, any suggestions?
Check out our video on z-mark. I'd essentially use that but with the rotary instead of flat. VERY small split size as focus is vital.
Videos you produce are a god sent! I'm having a problem ever now and then I'll get like a glitch where my laser ?jumps? And cuts a funky line of the image what am I doing wrong! Please help
Glad they're helping you. For support definitely join either the Discord or Facebook group and we can take a look at what's going on:
facebook.com/groups/lasereverything
discord.gg/lasereverything
Hi...great video!...what would be your recommendation for a starting fiber laser to start with?..am new to laser engraving...your videos are so informative and easy to follow...thank you!
Hey Manny, for beginners I ALWAYS recommend the 30w or 50w Mactron fiber lasers, they're linked in the description. 30w if you're primarily working on items under 200mm in size. 50w if you want to open up the 200 - 300mm range of lenses.
Any change if i have 300 lens?
I have an extension on my tower to allow me to get higher.
My raycus has kHz of 40-60 if I set on 60khz should I lower the power more?
Hey! I'm not in the US, what are the properties of the magic eraser to see if I can find it in South America? I'm also guessing Zap is a normal/standard degreaser? I'm going to try those parameters and let you know!
Yep, Zep is just degreaser. Magic erasers are just "melamine" sponges
Hey Alex, long time watcher- first time poster. I have a LARGE tumbler order I'm working on for a local university. Using my gantry CO2 @ 600mm/s @ .06 line interval each tumbler is taking between 6 and 8 minutes depending on the added text. I estimate a another 80-85 hours to finish the job. Any thoughts as to whether a 60w MOPA would be able to decrease my engrave times and still give results like what you were able to achieve in this vid?
Super late response but a co2 galvo would kill it
My rotary does not move when I got to mark it, any suggestions?
thank you buddy !!!
Amazing video but It is marking my RTIC tumbler but I still need to scrape the power coating off with my fingernail at the end. Any suggestions?
You may need to slightly bump power or shift frequency a touch, tuning from color to color or even different brands may be needed sometimes.
When I have done the z-mark black with 3mm out of focus on a yeti, I end up with an engraving that is almost bloated on the sides. The dimensions of the width are not correct. I have found entering the diameter of the yeti around 2.5-3mm smaller in ezcad than the actual diameter seems to fix it. I am guessing you aren't having this issue at 5.5mm since you didn't mention anything like that. Have you seen this issue before?
I haven't, that's a weird one for sure. Smart work around though.
@@LaserEverything Thanks for the reply Alex. I guess it is strange that I am running into that issue. It made sense to me why it was happening since I pull the focus out, but for that not to be normal is a bit weird. Maybe I'll bring it up in the Discord. Thanks again
Hay alguna forma de poder escuchar tus videos en español?
wasnt able to find that F powder coated tumblers in the prams list lol
This setting works great on my black tumbler but color ones it’s taking 2-3 passes. Any suggestions on getting it done in one pass??
Color tumblers reflect a significantly larger amount of the 1064nm laser than the black ones do as black absorbs the most amount of light. For a huge chunk of the different color powder coats I am still doing 2-3 passes depending on the color in order to get good results. The more power you use the more likely you are to ablate the metal, it's a tough balance.
How can we access your settings? I have seen in a few videos that you have a patreon but that link no longer works. Any other way to get those files?
Yep, we moved our supporter platform to MightNetworks. You can sign up at masters.lasereverything.net/
Como não falo inglês esta dificil atentar para as instruções faladas, poderia informar aqui, por escrito, as questões relacionadas a lentes e ao foco? Tenho uma CNC CO², consigo resultado melhor e mais detalhado na laser fibra 30W?
As I don't speak English, it's hard to pay attention to the spoken instructions, could you inform here, in writing, the questions related to lenses and focus? I have a CNC CO², is the best and most detailed result in the 30W laser fiber?
Fiber will provide a little more detail but it is much harder to get a consistent mark that is repeatable! Gantry CO2, while a little slow, is the best all around tool for doing things like powder coated tumblers, cups and mugs.
Another great vid! Hey, what's at the other end of your fume extractor hose? 🤔
AC Infinity Cloudline S6, got affiliate links in the buying guide, link in the description.
@@LaserEverything Didn't see this link (yet), but what's inline "after" the fan? Are you just venting outside? Do you have some kind of filter? 🤔
Would you change the hatch/laser settings for a flat surface and not rotary?
No, not for a flat surface. When you're using the rotary the laser essentially thinks it's marking a flat surface because the focus isn't changing.
Hi! Thanks for the awesome content. So glad I stumbled upon your channel :)
I was wondering about something. My laser does not have the reach in the z (up) direction to use my rotary tool. I’m missing at least 10 cm to get it focused on anything large like a tubler.
Thing is, my laser is “normal size”, not particularly small or anything. And it came with the rotary tool board inside, so you would think it was built with that option in mind. The rotary tool itself is not large either. I would say everthing is pretty standard looking at other peoples setups, including yours.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? I have tried raising the floor of the machine up from the tabletop, and setting up the rotary tool directly on the table. That gives me the extra 10 cm I need, but this is not ideal at all though, considering I can’t bolt it in the right position.
I would really appreciate any and all tips on this. Thank you :D
What lens are you using?
@@LaserEverything Wow, that’s a quick response :) My machine is a 30w raycus sold by HAUSER, lens is 300 mm. After watching (some more of your videos) i figures I need another lens. But which one..
For 30w lasers the 110 is the all-rounder. The 70 is the powerhouse and the 150/175 is the big field. The 300mm lens is all but useless with 30w
This is awesome
Thank you!
are your settings for a 50w fiber? i have 30w fiber and i dont get the same results as you
This was on the 30w JPT LP Mactron :)
Settings are going to vary by lens size, wattage, and also source brand (because some have different fixed Q pulse ranges). So be sure you're focus is set, and you may need to adjust for lens size. If you have a Raycus or MAX source, increasing power a bit (or reducing speed) by just a little can assist with the differences in q pulse. Color and thickness of powder coat can also affect the results.
Will those settings work for a 50W JPT. I would think 80% on a 30 watt would be different from a 50 watt at 80%
The settings are going to be different based on both wattage and if you have a different lens size. 80% of a 30w is ~24w out output power, and 80% of a 50w is ~ 40w of output power. The lens size will also need to be adjusted for. Check out the converter video, that should help get you in the ballpark for adjusting.
I have a 20W laser. I tried to do this with my 110mm lens but it just didn't work. I am going to need to order a new lens and I am not using a rotary. What lens do you reccomend?
A 20w without a rotary might be a challenge for sure. You may have a hard time driving a big lens for doing project mark's with 20w to deal with the curve of the surface, so be patient and may be a bit of trial and error. You would ideally use a 300mm lens for projectmark, but be sure you have enough tower height to achieve the focal distance you'll need. A 200 might be a bit easier on the 20w of available power, you'll just get less ability to handle the curve of the cup, since it will have a shorter focal range.
If I don’t have a rotary and use my 300mm lens I would assume I would need to refocus even more?
Less refocusing. Larger lenses have a deeper depth of field so a larger area of correct focus.
Hi Alex, I tried these settings on my 30w jpt, I had to increase my hatch to 0.045.
0.02 was annealing a blueish colour.
I defocused a 110mm lens 6mm
But the steel beneath the coating is still slightly annealing to a light straw colour.
Any tips on stopping the colour change so I get a plain brushed stainless look?
Depending on the coating color, it may change how quickly the laser energy reacts and removes it, as well as the thickness. If you're using a different brand, or even the same brand and different batch, it may be a contributing factor to more of that energy getting pumped into the metal instead of being needed to work its way through the coating. Instead of changing the line distance, you may simply need to reduce power to adjust for the potential variables if its cooking things a bit too much with heat. The defocus is going to vary a bit by lens, since your focal distance for your lens may be a bit different than mine for example, or if the focus is a little high or low in its range to begin with, it may be offering some more complexity to tuning the mark.
@@LaserEverything great thanks for that, I ended up finding a good setting for black yeti cups on a rotary.
I have 300mm lens on the way which will make things a bit faster.
If you had to do cups in volume would you choose fiber or co2?
CO2 no question, it's way to easy to mark the actual metal on the cup with a fiber laser.
How many passes did you run on the powder coat ? If I may ask?
Just one!
Is this set up works with a 300 x 300 mm lens? Please advice
Yeah it should work with a 300 but honestly the 300mm lens is better suited for project mark. Watch our "Project Mark Essentials" video! Faster and easier!
Thank you for the video of the experiment, I give you a like.👍 I subscribed to you!.. The other day I ordered a Raycus 30Q laser. Do you have or have you tried to engrave glass on a glass glass? a fiber - optic marker ? give me a link, please.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed :)
Congratulation on the new laser! We have not engraved on glass with a fiber. Glass doesn't inherently absorb the fiber wavelength effectively in a normal use case for most sources, so to mark glass you'd need a medium of some kind applied to absorb the energy on the surface. Either paint or a coating like brilliance laser ink or sacrificial material that will break down into the glass surface when marked. Some people have even had luck with tempura paint from the dollar store, marking that, and then washing off what remains. Wish we had a reference to share, but its not something we've done or have on hand.
@@LaserEverything Thank you friend for the information. I will try to apply the paint as you said. If you see the lesson, please send it to me.
As a newbie to the laser community, I’m still waiting on my OMTech 30w to come in but I need a lot of training on EzCad and is it compatible with all computers or no?¿
Ezcad is Windows only but when Lightburn is released later this year it will work with Windows, MacOS and Linux
@@LaserEverything I gotcha is it gonna be worth waiting for light burn or should I just get ezcad??
Cool vid, what about WHITE (and LIGHT PINK) powder coated tumblers? These settings aren't close to being clean on a 50W JPT 🤔💥
The settings we use in this video were using a 30w JPT and 150 lens, so being that you're using a higher wattage and possibly a different lens, you'll need to adjust for that. Check out the settings library and converter on our website if you need help with a rough estimate for your specific config.
How many cm is the focus distance?
.55cm defocused from whatever your typical focus is.
Owh wow - i still yet have to setup my rotary jig. it didnt come with indtructions so i am at a loss :(
Here's a video for you Kevin: czcams.com/video/iW21yY9czBQ/video.html
Hope that helps!
@@LaserEverything Thanks, I will take a gander at it :)
Great. For 50 jpt, i only convert speed? What Zep contains. We do not have this in Greece. Thanks
For a 50jpt I'd lower power, maybe 30-ish %
Zep is just industrial degreaser.
@@LaserEverything you mean 30 power or 30% of 80 power down. By the way, the calculator page is not working..
@@polakis1975 A reduction in power by 30%, not 30% power. Just google "proportion calculator" there's lots of them online.
For a 50w jpt, 55% power works perfect.
You should try nail polish removal it works fast and easy....
That's a good idea
So I'm pretty sure I followed this step for step but my machine just lasered a straight line around the cup
hit up the discord or facebook so we can take a look, we'll need a lot more info to find the issue
are you change something in parameters (rotary mark > param (F3)? because i'm still have some lines apperaring in my mark.. (sorry my english, i'm from brazil) :)
Post your results in the Discord server so I can take a look and see what they look like.
Tried these settings and worked amazing on black powder coated cups but for some reason lighter colors it won’t blast the powder coat off very well. I’m thinking it’s a light absorption issue with the colors. I’ve noticed black has always engraved well on everything. Any fixes for lighter colors in your opinion for the settings you have here? I was thinking more power but I didn’t want to leave a mark on the cup lol
Definitely more power, you're absolutely right, lighter colors reflect more power. I've actually lowered my speed down 20%ish for some of the lightest colors with good results. Ideally you'll have a setting in your parameter library for each color. It will 100% take some testing. The RTIC's are only $12ish a piece so great for just getting a ton of colors and using them to experiment - there's a link in the description.
How do I get parameters for my library? Mine doesn't show any
Hi, they don't ship with any. We offer a parameter library as a benefit of our Laser Master Academy. masters.lasereverything.net/
I just joined and trying to figure it out now
We have a video with instructions available!
The size of my objects its not correct , can you help me :(
Check out this video on lens corrections: czcams.com/video/llflAf0G62Q/video.html
Can you do this with a 20 watt fiber laser?
It can be, yea! For the way our settings are tuned, it might be a little tight on power, but you can reduce speed to rebalance and make up for that loss of power.
I dont see that Parameter in my list. i went and checked and i have the latest and greatest as far as I can tell. Can you send it to me?
I'll have that added in the LMA library this evening!
I guess the settings are on the screen…I’ll just have to adjust for my wattage as usual. Don’t know why I didn’t go that route earlier. Too much going on I guess.
Question from a total newbie: Why don't you simple reduce the power of the fiber laser to enable you to simply burn off the coating like a UV will do?
Unfortunately it's not that simple. The UV and Fiber are very different wavelengths. Even at low powers the fiber is much more likely to ablate the metal which is exactly what we don't want to happen here. That considered it does take some extra work to get things to go the way we want on the fiber but as you saw in the video it's do-able.
@@LaserEverything I appreciate your response. thank you 🙏🏿
Have you engraved any photos on tumblers
Ezcad doesn't support photos with rotary, you could techinically project them but I haven't tried it. Lightburn will add support for this upon release without work arounds so we'll be able to get a little further into it
@@LaserEverything I kind of figured that out. Only way i could do it is projectmark
I have an 80w MOPA and am using a 210 lens with my rotary. Any suggestions on where to begin with defocusing? I'm a member of the laser everything group which is where I got the library to start with
Did you get it figured out ?
@@DaneConstructionSomewhat. I ended up getting a C02 galvo laser and I do all my tumblers on that or my C02 gantry machine now. Way easier!
@@e3dusa nice, what is a co2 galvo? A fiber setup but co2 laser ?
@@DaneConstruction yes that's it exactly.
@@e3dusa Using both gantry and galvo, which one do you prefer the most for tumblers?
What Q Pulse Width are you set at?
200 unless otherwise stated in our videos
Could u plz upload a vdo on 360 degree round mark plz.
I'll add it to the wish list!
@@LaserEverything thanks and will wait
I have some questions
Were you using your 30W fiber laser?? Thanks!
Yep! This was shot with the Mactron 30w JPT LP
Thanks. Got your list of settings. Trying to convert for my 50W JPT with the 300mm lens.
where did you get your level from?
We have a link to it in the buying guide, link in the description :)
thank you like and subscribe. My name is Aleh, I'm from Russia.
A very useful video for learning.😜
Thank you, glad the video was helpful!
i noticed you dropped Start TC down to 50, why?
That's just what my laser timing requires. If you haven't already set your laser timing up check out the great video by JefferyJ on the subject. Just type in JefferyJ Timing into CZcams he has a great guide.
I definitely want to get a fiber but I would rather use my C02…for powder coated tumblers. Great video though.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, new to engraving and your channel. Was just wondering why you are using ezcad and not Lightburn for this demo?
I just ordered my engraver and still need to buy Lightburn as most youtubers say ezcad is not good enough. Are you in agreement?
Ezcad is fine but LightBurn is better for most things. This video was published before LightBurn for galvo lasers existed.
Did you make a video using lightburn yet?
I use a 300mm lense with no rotary. Black can take seconds to do but I have issues doing red and blue.
I also have the 800mm tower as well as an extension 🤣
Wow that's a big tower! Are you using project mark since no rotary?
Using a 30W JPT MOPA. Cannot for the life of me get this or other settings to work on any color tumbler. Very defeated.
Make sure your pulse width is 200 NS! If you're still having trouble please post on our Discord group or Facebook community.
what was the run time?
IIRC about 4 minutes but it's been a while.
I do think however it need to be stated that some color tumbler will not work with fiber. This info will save you hours of troubleshooting
Do you share this file?
Which file are you looking for Manny?
I usually run several passes with cylindrical correction until the paint is completely removed... you can just wipe off paint that wasnt completely removed????????????
If you really got through the powdercoat yeah it's pretty easy with a little alcohol and a magic eraser to get the settled dust and leftover stuff off!
Check out this episode on ProjectMark Essentials: czcams.com/video/mvRCOUP0pOI/video.html
And this episode on cylinder correction: czcams.com/video/TIvgsaoaSmw/video.html
Cusnto salen los parsmetros soy de cdmx ayudenme
I've just started to get better results than this. I defocused the laser a lot then make 10-16 passes altering the direction. I also cool the tumbler off after one or two passes if the design has a lot of detail so it doesn't melt the coating around the design. Imy goal is to have a shiney finish like a co2. I'm slowly figuring it out.
Why do my letters have lines in them?
I'd have to see, check out the links to our facebook group or discord server in the description.
And what if I have 1000 bottles to mark? The attaching of every product is a nightmare.
Sorry, I'm not clear. Are you worried about a jig? If you have 1000, I would make sure you have a quality jig so you can just place, mark and go.
@@LaserEverything Yes, something like a jig, but how this that jig for a rotary looks like?
Why is there no automatic translation for this video?!😭😭😭💔
I'm not sure! Sorry!
I'm new to the
Sorry about that initial post. If I do a patron membership can I set it up for somebody eles? I'm old and new this stuff.
Sure why not. Just head over to masters.lasereverything.net to get started
@@LaserEverything we have been really impressed w your videos. Down to earth and it's nice seeing you train as you go. I live in Mexico and I am setting a shop up for a family I've gotten to know over the years. I want to start contributing to your channel to get all the benefits you are offering. Hopefully answering a few questions on the equipment I'm targeting. I will be in touch once I do the patreon deposit. Thanks in advance for all the informative info. ck
Great videos. Thank you.
For engraving on tumblers in bulk would you recommend a fiber laser with rotary or a co2 one?
Lets say I only engrave 10 types of tumblers, am I able to save all settings for each type/colour and just pop the tumbler on and away you go?
If you're doing bulk I would always recommend a CO2 galvo. There's no faster way to mark them!
Can you do me a favor? Caption your videos. Deaf people like myself and others whose primary language are not English will truly appreciate it. Thank you.
I will try my best. I am the only person who works on this channel and I have kids and a business and have to do all the shooting, editing, support etc on my own. Captioning takes a very very long time. Maybe I'll look into a service or something.
Deal with it
@marktsarenko3943 what an ablism attitude. Deal with it isn't the answer.
@@TedH71 if you want him to waste his time captioning all his videos for 5% of viewers that are deaf, your out of your mind. Just get some device that that listens and captions for u
@@marktsarenko3943 It's not just for deaf people. People who are learning English as a 2nd language....or the room is very noisy...PRESTO! Captioning to the rescue....etc. BTW, captioning technology has improved greatly. There are two methods: the self captioning feature (I'm not sure how common this is but is a good method for a person speaking verbally) and the other method. I actually tend to caption my videos for the deaf impaired......LOL.