SliceWorx Kingroon KP3S Pro S1
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today, let's get a look at the Kingroon KP3S Pro S1, provided by SliceWorx!
Check out the KP3S Pro S1 on SliceWorx's site: www.sliceworx.com/products/kp...
Scroll down for model links!
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Disclosure:
I sometimes receive compensation such as discounted or free products, and when applicable, this is disclosed in videos and their descriptions. Whether free, discounted, or paid full price, any reviewed product is tested to the best of my ability, and I give my honest impression. All opinions expressed are my own.
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** MODEL LINKS **
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XYZ Cube by iDig3Dprinting:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
CHEP Cube by Elproducts:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:318...
McGybeer's Cali-Dragon:
www.printables.com/model/2091...
Loubie3D's Aria the Dragon:
www.printables.com/model/2522...
Maker's Muse Clearance Castle:
www.makersmuse.com/clearance-...
Standard Size Universal Spool Holder by jjpowelly:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:943563
VW Microbus Pen Holder by Sdvaletone:
www.printables.com/model/2905...
#SliceWorx
#Kingroon
#3DPrinter
CHAPTERS
00:00 Introduction
01:05 About the KP3S Pro S1
05:41 Tramming / Leveling Bed
06:17 Loading Filament
07:17 Printed Models
12:01 Testing Power Loss Recovery
12:54 Testing Filament Runout Sensor
13:27 Dislikes
14:29 Likes
15:55 Closing - Věda a technologie
I have the regular Pro model although I did the Y-axis linear rail upgrade and then got the same artifacting as yourself, I took the rails off and took the carriages apart and cleaned and relubed the bearings which solved the issue, before doing this the carriages moved in a kind of stop start fashion and I could feel the dirt in the bearings when I moved them, this is a great little printer that I bought while working away from home in the Netherlands, I was originally supposed to be there for 6 weeks but after a fortnight I was told I would be there for at least 5 months so I ordered this machine as I was missing my machines and had amassed loads of files I wanted to print, this printer is quiet and I still could not hear it even when placing it in my hotel room bathroom for overnight prints .
Hi Andrew, Interesting that the linear rails might be the cause of the Y axis artifacts. I've got another comment suggesting it might be that the Y belt is too tight. I'm going to try loosening the belt and run some test prints. If that doesn't work, I may tear the rail blocks down to clean & relube them. I've got some SuperLube grease, which I think is OK to use. I've had a rail block apart before, and hoo boy are there a lot of little ball bearings in them!
@@BV3D can you feel any grittiness when you manually move the bed? thats what drew me to the carriages, of course it may be the belt or even a combination of the two, I am sure you will find the issue.
Hmm i have the same Y-axis pattern problem. I have been playing with belt tension but that didnt helped. So i will maybe try to dissasamble linear rails and try to clean and lube them. I think that i have also noticed that on one side there isnt enough steel balls in bearing, so maybe thats also an issue. Thanks for hint.
The artifacts are likely from the belt on the Y being too tight. Hold a GT2 belt against the pattern and I bet you'll see it lines up.
This is happening because the teeth of the belt are riding against a smooth idler, and when too tight you end up with the teeth compressing a small amount against the idler at the top of the belt's arc, then decompressing again as they come off the idler, basically acting as a small spring. This repeats every 2mm as a another tooth compresses. This causes the print bed to slightly bounce (aka vibrate) and introduces this artifact. You can get this same issue if you over-tighten the X axis as well.
The fastest solution is to slightly reduce belt tension, though that can increase chances of ringing at high speeds and acceleration/jerk.
The proper solution is to use toothed idlers whenever possible, and probably a higher a quality belt as well. Though at this price point, concessions were made by the manufacturer.
probably the issue I think aswell
I'll loosen those belts and run some test prints. Thanks for the suggestion!
I have the same issue on my KP3S Pro, and i was trying to play with loose or tighten the belt with several prints, and it was still there. I have also tried to print something with almost too loose belt...without any significant changes.
@@BV3D Did you find a solution to the ringing? I am seeing the same issue at high speeds.
Thanks for the overview. I am planning to add this printer to my fleet. 3D printer manufactures have been stuck in that lack of innovation mode for years now. It's nice to finally see linear rails on all axis. As long as the printer is solid it should print faster and be more accurate than the other designs on the market. When I order mine I will also order 2 MOSFET's. One for the bed and the other for the hotend. I do this with all my printers to remove the high current draw from the main board. I am also planning to add a Slice Engineering copperhead hotend since I have heard of the original hotend clogging. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to create this content!
Cheers,
Greg
As the owner of 2 Ender 2 Pro's and 2 Ender 3 S1's, I would love direct drive on my Ender 2 Pro's. 1 Of the mods I did was to replace the handle with a Spool holder the screws into the screw holes on top. The design still needs some tweeking, but it can, barely, hold a 1KG spool of filament. Infact someone who downloaded it, modified it to fit on their kingroon printer.
Hi Bryan. Thank you for doing this video. I was actually looking at this exact printer on Sliceworx a cpl days ago and it was on my short list. This helps my decision even more now. I think I am settled on this printer and 1 from Flying Bear with their Ghost 6. Still undecided about which to go with but your video helped me narrow it down to these 2 so Thank You.
Cool! Yeah, it's a nice little machine. The Flying Bear Ghost 6 looks pretty cool. I see you in chat over on Kris Kersey's stream. 😉
Liked the video, the printer being reviewed has the linear rail upgrade on the y axis as the stock pro printer has v-slot wheels, it would be good to understand the upgrades fitted as this isn’t what most people would get straight out of the box buying from another supplier. Keep up the great reviews👍
suggestion - print more complex TPU models like those seen in FPV drones for component mounts/action camera mounts
The VW is awesome! Decent little printer
Thanks! 😁
I love your t shirt
Try both relative and absolute extrusion slicer options with power loss feature. This is ofter the case.
Due to space requirements I am considering downsizing my 3D printer. Currently, I have an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and this printer doesn't really look any smaller in practice than what I have. Does anyone have any experience with the two that can give a comparison? Thanks.
I'm thinkin' you drove a VW van back in the day :-)
Im owning KP3S Pro for few months, and i have also problem with mentioned vertical strip pattern on y-axis side of the prints. ( 7:45 ) Does anyone know what could be causing this?
Silly that Kingroon does't supply their all-metal heat break in the hot end.
I'm really not sure why printers keep coming with PTFE-lined hot ends these days. The all-metal heat breaks are really cheap now, aren't they? Seems like it would only add a dollar or two to the printer's cost.
I was surprised that the Sovol SV06 has a bimetal heat break. Temps up to 300C
@@Zuul47 Yes, I recently got an SV06. Needed some mods to straighten the frame and for better cooling, but the print quality is truly remarkable.
Woooo first!
👍🏻😁👍🏻
Please post the table leg cap!
Bryan, I have 3 of this series of printer: 2 KP3S printers and one KP3S Pro. Don't see what the S1 moniker is all about ? Looks like you have the exact same extruder and everything I have. Okay, so the reason I wrote in: on that power loss recovery problem with these printers... Folks, lose the longer filenames. On the KP3S printers, it must be under 14 characters total. When you name any file going into these printers longer than 4 hours, I say keep it short. The recovery portion of the firmware is thrown off by anything longer. I have tested this and it does work ! S1... Huh ? Or is this actually the first time I have a printer a few months before Bryan does 😁?
Actually, the S1 adds linear rails so now all 3 axis has them, the KP3S and KP3S Pro only have linear rails on 2 axis where the Pro S1 has them on all 3. The Sliceworx printer also has ferrules on the wires where the ones from Kingroon are tinned.
@@blackcanyonmodelworx6060 And here I was silly up front, thinking S1 had to be some BIG thing... PFFT... changes are tiny.
@@blackcanyonmodelworx6060 Maybe sliceworx wont have such a bad rep on customer support, eh ?
@@travisclark6407 I just ordered it from them today. I have sent several emails to them over the last couple of weeks and they have gotten back to me quickly and very engaging. I have even chatted through email with the founder and owner as well.
But actually difference between Pro S1 and Pro + Y-axis linear rails upgrade is, that in S1 they used lower alu profiles (probably 20x10) on which are linear rails mounted, so you will not loose anything from print height. Where if you mount Y-axis linear upgrade to Pro version, you will loose some of height... 10-20mm, because you are mounting them on the top of 20x20 alu profiles.
Like this one but those ripples are not acceptable to what I want to pri t. I watched one video the guy thought it might be due to te bearings in the rollers. One more thing is I would rather see the filament holder on top without the tube. Like the bigger build volume too....😮
Owwwo too early
I hate these comments btw
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