KTM Clutch Dampers- How to
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- čas přidán 24. 12. 2023
- Modern KTM clutch dampers are often worn out by the time the bike reaches 30 hours. Changing them is simple. The Rekluse dampers are roughly twice the price, but they come with the tab washer (very handy) and they last much longer.
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This channel is one of the best kept secrets on the internet ..no nonsense, just straight to the point and very informative..
his previous tyre change video was an absolute game changer for me..
P.S. I have no affiliation with this channel, I simply feel if something is worthwhile than it should be shared with others..
Awesome video! I put the bolts in the position one because the clutch was too tight and they were in position 2. It fixed it.
Great video. No bullshit, no extra chatter just pure repair much respect from alberta Canada 🇨🇦
(i dont even own a newer ktm lol i ride a 2010 ktm 300xc-w beginning to hate jettig the carb for all the elevation/temp changes i encounter so I'm looking into the issue these new ktms have)
hi, i have actually molten one set of those while riding (hard enduro) and it was a huge mess. I'm a mechanic at a ktm dealer also. I usually recommend that people replace those when needed or preemptively at 100 hours.
Quality vid, keep it simple. 👍
That was pro. Great vid.
Why does worn out dampers cause the clutch to drag. I don’t get the correlation.
I’m not 100% sure but I think it’s the chattering. It’s really obvious on Rekluse clutches. They get jerky.
Hey Chuck do you clean the clutch hub threads before adding the loctite or will it work fine if the threads/bolts are a little oily?
Technically they should be degreased, but Loctite will be effective if the threads aren’t perfect. If they have oil in them I clean them with brake cleaner, but they’re usually dry.
thanks for the damper video! I completed this on my 17 xcw, and after putting it all back together ,my clutch lever is rock hard, stuck. I think what I did wrong was to grab the clutch lever while I had the basket off. (I know-its just instinct!) Is this a hydraulic problem or do I need to drain it and play with the throw rod?
Are you sure you put all the parts back in? Sounds like you may have left out a part of the throwout or the rod.
Thanks for this! The screws on the clutch cover are spec’d to be 10Nm, do you think that’s too much and risk stripping? You do them by hand, but can you reckon what sort of Nm would that correspond to? Cheers.
The problem isn’t the spec, but achieving it consistently. The torque wrench measures resistance. What we’re trying to measure is the tension between the head of the bolt and the threads. If there is anything affecting friction the torque number will be inaccurate.
Things like: paint rubbing off the surface of the cover, grit in the threads, oil on the threads, casting anomalies, damaged threads, the speed you’re turning the wrench, the position you’re holding the wrench and many more.
When you’re dealing with a larger torque number the percentage if variance will be smaller relative to the number. It’s very easy to be off by a few nm. On these little bolts that means stripping them or having them come out.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech great explanation. But could you us home mechanics a rule of thumb? To strip those screws is one my worst nightmares
I looove wrenching on my bike, so I bought a KTM.
Hi, after watching your video I decided to do it myself ;) .. But ... after i put everything together the clutch is gone..I disassembled and reassembled everything from the beginning, but the problem remained. Any guesses as to what could be causing the problem?
The pressure plate is most likely hung up on the 6 pins that hold the steel plates in place.
Great video, Chuck! I'm replacing the clutch on my 2017 500 right now. But will you please confirm: does the rounded or square end of the pushrod go inside, or face out, toward the right side of the bike? My clutch was dragging and in addition to the fibers being worn and the metal plates darkened, my pushrod was installed rounded end out, but I think that's backwards. The previous owner must have gotten it wrong. Thanks if you can confirm. :-)
I’m not 100% sure on that. Instead of memorizing I look at what makes sense. Usually you can’t install it backwards because one end won’t go into the throwout hat. Sometimes you can see that one end is concave to match the ball in the slave piston.
@ChuckfromTrueTech All good. I watched several videos and was able to get a glimpse of the pushrod. On all of them the rounded end was on the clutch side and the dimpled end was on the clutch slave cylinder side and surely mates to the ball as you said. Thanks! 😁👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey chuck, i just switched my clutch plates checked the basket groves and dampers, reverse bleeded and inspected the lower clutch cylinder and all look good. the bike still drag what could possibly be the reason ? exc 250 2t tpi
I don’t find reverse bleeding to work well, but I assume you’ve got good pressure at the lever? Do you have a 9 or 10 mm master? What oil are you running? Have you checked the clutch spring deflection as it shows in the manual?
@@ChuckfromTrueTech the lever have good pressure with minimum play, 10mm master, using motorex top speed 15/50 oil and theres no deflection.
when the bike is warm in 2nd gear i can barley push him backwards.
ty for your quick answer didnt expect that
@@Ftchoola Is this happening with the bike running or with the engine off?
@@ChuckfromTrueTech while running with good warm up.
What are the symptoms?
Dragging & lurching at low RPM.
@@ChuckfromTrueTech like Jerky right? Sometimes i get a clutch slip and its not sp grippy anymore. I have new dampers now, should i put the adjustment on notch 3 for good measure? Its 501 2021 that has been clutch hed up to wheelie 1 million times since 21.
@@FordSierraIS The adjustments are for setting the preload on the Belleville spring. You need to make sure the deflection is correct. I believe the manual calls for .004" of deflection.