Thanks for the video! I felt the same way and I think I have improved all that in the LR3. I tried to post a picture but I suppose I can't include links to the V1 forums. So the LR3 is coming extremely soon. Pictures of it are available and files will be as well.
Made a LowRider 3, and shared my build journey, hope it helps! Teaching Tech is the reason I discovered LowRider in the first place. Thank you Teaching Tech!
There is one trick for workpiece holding that I've seen used in various situations which I think is worth mentioning. If the lateral forces applied by the tool to the workpiece, then bolt-down clamps can be replaced with a paper masking tape and superglue with accelerator. Double sided tape has proved to be too messy on clean-up. First, apply a layer of masking tape to the bed of the CNC (table) and burnish it down well. Do the same to the back side of the workpiece. Finally, apply superglue to the upper face of the tape on the bed, apply accelerator to the face of that on the workpiece, mate the faces and press home until superglue set. Once the job is done, the masking tape is easily separated from the bed of the CNC and the workpiece. This certainly would have worked when Michael was struggling with a warped PCB onto the CNC 4 years ago.
Hey my electronics case remix made it on-screen in a Teaching Tech video! (10:05) That was like my own personal easter egg. Thanks for the great video, and links for the updates! Always appreciate your great videos.
Great to see competent folks taking advantage of Ryan's designs! Welcome to the club! In addition to being an outstanding machine, it's also a natural Thomas Sanladerer deterrent. Everybody wins!
This is the least substantiative hot-take on the patent situation I've seen so far. Low effort drama commenting is one of the many drawbacks to the mass accessiblity of the internet and sometimes it make me wish we never mass produced keyboards. Get off the schoolyard please. It's embarassing to see from an adult.
Have you thought about a way to keep the wheels clean on the sides? It seems like they can get covered with chips pretty quickly that could affect your Z-level. It's been a long while since you covered this machine so it is nice to see it hasn't been lost to time.
Definitely a good suggestion. For some reason I didn't have the vacuum attached for the black acrylic footage. Normally it's not that bad but still an area to consider.
I think it would be trivial to implement a few diagonal wheel guards that automatically wipe away any chips if needed. Could certainly be useful here :)
@@TeachingTech cheap cnc bellows on ebay my dude, and get some brush strips for the wheel area as an interface between the table and moving parts. Might be an idea for the belts as well, as a decent wood chip could seriously throw off your Y parallelity which would suck balls say 6 hours into a large and detailed job.
I built a large LR2 and considered this problem. My Y-wheels ride in steel shelf standards that are screwed onto Unistrut (found in the electrical aisle at the home improvement store). They form a square-bottomed U. The Unistruts are mounted to the sides of the table with spacers that create a gap between the strut and the table. Most dust falls off the edge of the table and down that gap and any that gets onto the Unistrut doesn't matter as the wheels are riding up on the two parallel edges of the shelf standards.
Dust shoe on the router plate goes a long way here. I also routed grooves into the Y rails on mine using a 90-degree V-bit to keep them aligned - as an added bonus, the wheels don’t reach the bottom of the grooves, so they can channel some sawdust without the wheels lifting when rolling over it.
That's a fantastic design! I've been considering getting a CNC but I found the cheap chinese ones not powerful enough and the expensive ones too large/expensive. But this is the best of both worlds... I'm definitely considering building something along these lines.
Great particle upgrades. End result looks very professional. :) As far as showing off upgrades in a demo; you can always include a link in the description with a pinned-comment to a future build.
Please do a Lowrider3 version 😃. Your approach to thinking, parts choice( buy, build, replace) and video material inspired me to look at the lowrider 2. I still haven’t built it bit I’m still very interested. Better still the V3 is out now. So if you think you can recoup the effort please do a V3 build and review.
You are such an asset to the maker community. I do not have even a budget 3d printer because I have no space in my cramped apartment in a vintage (old) building, but I nonetheless enjoy watching your content; this from a sexagenarian former tech copywriter and foundry artisan should be considered high praise indeed.
The cordless router most likely has a simple 18v...24v DC motor (RS 550 or RS 775) and maybe a planetary gearbox to increase torque. The motors are cheap, available on Ali or Ebay, and much easier to mount than the full blown router with its casing. Plus you don't have to deal with the mains power cord. The relatively low DC voltage can be provided via cables in the main loom.
Best 3D printing channel by far, as I subscribe to others, your channel has really rewarding content that furthers my interests in 3D printing and production tech as a whole, thank you!
Very nice, just discovered this entire space. Inexplicably, it feels like I need something like this in my life. Now that my wife has grown accustomed to my Voron 2.4, maybe something like this can be snuck in? Looks like it takes up more room, though... hmm.
This was an excellent upgrade video! But not only that, it's the first I've heard of these 2 CNCs. Once I get experience replacing the stock controller on my first 3D printer, I think I'll be ready for this. Thanks, mate. ☮️❤️🌈
I'm almost done building my Lowrider 3 cnc, the belt connectors have not been improved in the new model. I'll be doing that myself. But that makes it fun I guess.
Thomas tried to build an MPCNC and failed. Same designer, different machine. Instead of using the forum and succeeding, he tried to change the convo to avoid embarrassment
@@planckstudios every mod was addressed. It's entirely factual to point out that V1 engineering is claiming that mods made from scratch were somehow needing to be licensed the way V1 wanted, and not fully open CC-0 as Thomas wanted his mods to be.
If you are going to put 240V true your cable chains you need to start grounding your metal parts, since you could electrocute yourself when the 240 line gets damaged.
it would be cool if you set up a way to monitor the amperage of the router so you know if it's chugging on any parts or getting too hot. some kind of safety based off amperage limits
Absolutely brilliant design.. I am new to CNC's bro but this is something I often wondered about.. How easy it would be to have a CNC just like this one u built.. I love the communities around CNC's too. I'm going to have a go at building my own soon bro. Thanks for giving me some awesome ideas and also inspiring me to go sat it asap.. Keep the great content coming man. I sub'd and liked and shared it to my socials.. I love this stuff
V1 Engineering released the Lowrider V3 a few months ago with a lot of improvements over the V2. I am in the process of printing it. The forum is also great and you can get a lot of help there.
Those are some very cool upgrades! One issue I noticed, however, is that debris builds up on the wheels--as can be seen on the right at 2:05--which could cause some Z error. A pair of toothbrush heads per wheel sweeping ahead of the wheel on each side--and a shroud on both sides to protect the wheels themselves--would prevent that. Cheers!
Cool video! Tell the remixer people to be careful. V1 engineering came after Tom Sandladerer super hard, to the point he tore his down and refused to give them any more coverage.
Would you be willing to show how you store the lowrider while not in use? It looks as though you remove it from the table when not in use. Is that correct? I had printed out and acquired all the parts for the MPCNC Burly version but was never able to carve out dedicated space for a table for it so I has sat in a box for the last two years. I am thinking maybe I should try the lowrider, might be a better bet for me. p.s. the lowrider came out just after I finished printing my Burly sigh... e mpcnc
It's stored exactly how you see in that clip. I home it to the opposite end of where I sit and that's it. In every video, you will see a gap between my two tables to allow room for the y belts.
A few thoughts. 1) have you thought about running the Duet Web Control that’s been hacked for the SKR boards on it? I know that DWC has a web interface designed for CNC mills. I also know that Marlin isn’t super CNC friendly, as I’ve run into many issues with it. 2) you should consider cutting out new side pieces that put wheels on the bottom of the table as well, clamping the machine down. I’ve seen a few cases where the wheels have lifted off the table during cuts which messes up the entire piece of material and alll
Thank You so much for all of the information you have given, I too am looking for to the release of the Lowrider 3 and your projects using it. I have 1 question, what brand and model number router did you use?
I’ve watched this series and have purchased the lowrider v3. I know you were looking to add a diode laser to yours - is this still progressing, or did you can the idea? I’ve got a K40 in the workshop I’ve yet to set up, but already looking into if a $80 AUD diode from banggood would work on the lowrider. A detailed guide from you on how to install that would be amazing. Cheers for all you continue to do for the community
That router might be right up my ally since I don't have much money and have a alfawise u30 printer I can use for parts. looks like I can go at my wallet's pace too.
as this is your most recent MPCNC I can find, I'm wondering if you are planning on Mk3. I'm personally looking for the plasma cutter version, but puting it off because YT is limited on what can and can't be done. Still reading through the forum, but video is so much easier.
Coincidence, I am still undecided if it is a good coincidence or not. The Lr3 has been done for a while but I have been waiting for supplies to arrive to support new builds. Box showed up Thursday night, started launch changes immediately, and published the files Saturday. Either way, love the video.
Been watching your channel since you built the drift chair and each video teaches me something new. I don't have a low rider but some of your upgrades can be used for my cnc router. I also have the sainsmart cnc you reviewed as well. Thanks for all the effort you make to help people like me. Now I'm piecing together a rstrig because following yours has helped me decide which way to go although I'm going vcore 500. (Eventuslly I plan to build vorons as well) I do have a question though in terms of cad programs you use onshape, I'm curious have you had experience with fusion and do you find cad easy to use and work with properly?
Started building a lowrider 2 about a year ago following along with your videos - (great work!). Started going through your UPGRADES video and thought it would be nice to have a touch screen instead of my old Creality CR-10 board and screen. I now have an SKR1.3 board and a TFT35 v3 display. Can I load your TFT28 firmware onto the TFT35 as is? If not, can you or someone point me to a 'how-to'?
It strikes me that that CNC rig would be *PERFECT* for making plastic signage by adding an extruder and printing PLA/etc. directly onto sheets of acrylic. (A heated bed could be swapped in for the head to smoothen the PLA/etc. after printing. Does that sound reasonable?
A little off topic, I follow you on CZcams and have a simple question. What are a few of the best large 3D home printers? Something with a maybe 400x400 build plate, auto bed leveling, filament runout and something I can print from a USB stick.
I noticed that, during the milling process, there is material accumulating outside the spoil board area. The wheels are rolling this the material particles. How much of an issue does that create with accuracy and artifacts in the milled material?
Technically you are absolutely right. It will a bit more forgiving getting the belt length right with one each end. I guess it also simplified the printing process too.
hey !!!! New version is available now from the web site! V3 ! i was looking to build the v2 but now i m little confused. What do you think : it s better to go with v3 directly or v2 it s a good option for a first build?
Go with building LowRider V3 directly if you haven't started V2 yet. The V1E forum has improving build docs and folks like myself are sharing their build videos.
Question: This uses Nema 17 motors? Are they powerful enough? Nema 23s are not very expensive and you can drive them with external 6600 stepper drivers. You'd only need x and Y probably only $50-75 more?
But why? 17's are enough. Frame is always the limiting factor as you simply can't use torque from bigger motors. Feedspeeds are just so slow with these.
Was interested in this as I'm looking at ways to expand the makerspace for my school district however the v1engineering site appears to be getting flagged as containing a bootstrapper. Anyone have any insight on this?
Which website? There is a shop, the forums, and the docs. I'm also not sure what you mean by bootstrapper. But if there is anything dangerous, I know Ryan would want to know more details.
Remixing is highly encouraged under the same license and is being discussed and shared in the official forum. That is something that Tom didn‘t want to do, hence the resistance.
Just found out about this project. I have a question, does the belts support any forces ? I'd want to cut throught very thick and hard wood and I fear belts will not support this.
These are awesome upgrades. Anyone know if I could mount the table top to a wall and run the low rider vertically ? That would save me space in the garage
I don't think so. We have discussed it so many times and never get any real good ideas to make that work. It is just far more efficient to use gravity instead of fighting it. My solution to that very common question in the new LowRider 3 is to make the machine easily removable from the table so you can put it away when needed. Litterlay takes me about 1 minute to do. Unsnap the belts, hose and two plugs. I can't post links but I am releasing the new machine as we speak and you can take a look in the forums or printables soon.
Why not make your table top hinge on the wall so you only have to have it out if you are using it when not being used it wld just lay flat against the wall
I've decided not to go ahead with MPCNC due to the license from author. Is the situation different with low rider? I remember the author was quite restrictive regarding remixes especially.
The license is share alike, all I have ever asked is if you make something extremely similar to my production parts you share alike. Full details on the license page. Plenty of remixes and addons out there with all sorts of licenses.
Why would they? I've made one and didn't have any interest in carbon filled filament. They're joke and nothing like real carbon compounds or even fiberglass.
What kind of carbon? It'll probably do coal and some hydrocarbons, like machining wax and POM. As for Aluminium, no. If you want to machine metal you need a smaller, more expensive and more rigid machine. And no 3D printing of structural parts.
@@planckstudios Yeah, but it'll chew through the end mill just as much as it chews through the aluminium, which fortunately for the poor end mill is "very, very slowly"
@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart I use kyocera single flute 1/8" HSS endmills from drillman1 on ebay and trichodial cut - haven't broken a bit yet cutting 0.1" aluminum on a single pass at 10mm/s
4:03 good clips for why 3D printers aren't mass market viable yet, even with good filament on a good printer, functional parts *still* and **always** require post processing
Somewhat true. But I whole heartedly disagree with your always. I print with my Prusa tons of functional parts that don't need any post processing. Heck I've printed mpcnc parts without doing anything to a single part and it looks good.
@@HaWiWe Never heard of Thomas Sanladerer? Dude is a legend of 3D printing on youtube and he made whole streams building MPCNC and modified a lot of parts then released them back, he then was contacted by MPCNC authors and forced to delete the modified parts he uploaded, he then halted the series, deleted the videos and only left a video explaining what happened. They acted like complete di*ks
@@Arek_R. I know, and he never got on the forums for help and messed it up big time. And you didn't read: He could have remixed away, but under the same license. That's what he didn't want.
Ryan (from MPCNC) is a bit sensitive about people modifying his creation ... see Thomas Sanladerer's video czcams.com/video/68ohaPYyiDA/video.html. Having watched Thomas's video, I won't be building one. A shame really.
Think Thomas has some regrets about that video, he mentions in the comments and since then (note the contentious tweets have since been deleted). Many folks, including me have made and shared changes/mods to improve our builds (on Printables). The non-commercial license lets us makers remix. But we, random companies, and even the original V1E designer can't sell remixed components for profit. Hope that helps, cheers!
This is highly relevant to my interests.
Tell me a wooden machine with electronics is not the past and the future melding together
Thanks for the video! I felt the same way and I think I have improved all that in the LR3. I tried to post a picture but I suppose I can't include links to the V1 forums. So the LR3 is coming extremely soon. Pictures of it are available and files will be as well.
Made a LowRider 3, and shared my build journey, hope it helps! Teaching Tech is the reason I discovered LowRider in the first place. Thank you Teaching Tech!
There is one trick for workpiece holding that I've seen used in various situations which I think is worth mentioning. If the lateral forces applied by the tool to the workpiece, then bolt-down clamps can be replaced with a paper masking tape and superglue with accelerator. Double sided tape has proved to be too messy on clean-up. First, apply a layer of masking tape to the bed of the CNC (table) and burnish it down well. Do the same to the back side of the workpiece. Finally, apply superglue to the upper face of the tape on the bed, apply accelerator to the face of that on the workpiece, mate the faces and press home until superglue set. Once the job is done, the masking tape is easily separated from the bed of the CNC and the workpiece.
This certainly would have worked when Michael was struggling with a warped PCB onto the CNC 4 years ago.
You forgot to show the advantage of being able to screw plates or candle holders into your dining table. It's a real hidden benefit!
Thanks for the upgrades! I just got all the parts to build mine and I haven't printed belt tensioning parts yet so this is perfect timing
Hey my electronics case remix made it on-screen in a Teaching Tech video! (10:05) That was like my own personal easter egg. Thanks for the great video, and links for the updates! Always appreciate your great videos.
The joy of DIY systems is that you can improve design shortcomings as you go. Nicely done.
Printed scrapers around wheels for removing chips would be also useful upgrade. Happy routing.
Nicely thought through improvements. Looking forward to seeing some projects complete on it.
Great to see competent folks taking advantage of Ryan's designs! Welcome to the club! In addition to being an outstanding machine, it's also a natural Thomas Sanladerer deterrent. Everybody wins!
This is the least substantiative hot-take on the patent situation I've seen so far. Low effort drama commenting is one of the many drawbacks to the mass accessiblity of the internet and sometimes it make me wish we never mass produced keyboards.
Get off the schoolyard please. It's embarassing to see from an adult.
The Lowrider 3 should be available very soon.
Have you thought about a way to keep the wheels clean on the sides? It seems like they can get covered with chips pretty quickly that could affect your Z-level.
It's been a long while since you covered this machine so it is nice to see it hasn't been lost to time.
Definitely a good suggestion. For some reason I didn't have the vacuum attached for the black acrylic footage. Normally it's not that bad but still an area to consider.
I think it would be trivial to implement a few diagonal wheel guards that automatically wipe away any chips if needed. Could certainly be useful here :)
@@TeachingTech cheap cnc bellows on ebay my dude, and get some brush strips for the wheel area as an interface between the table and moving parts.
Might be an idea for the belts as well, as a decent wood chip could seriously throw off your Y parallelity which would suck balls say 6 hours into a large and detailed job.
I built a large LR2 and considered this problem. My Y-wheels ride in steel shelf standards that are screwed onto Unistrut (found in the electrical aisle at the home improvement store). They form a square-bottomed U. The Unistruts are mounted to the sides of the table with spacers that create a gap between the strut and the table. Most dust falls off the edge of the table and down that gap and any that gets onto the Unistrut doesn't matter as the wheels are riding up on the two parallel edges of the shelf standards.
Dust shoe on the router plate goes a long way here. I also routed grooves into the Y rails on mine using a 90-degree V-bit to keep them aligned - as an added bonus, the wheels don’t reach the bottom of the grooves, so they can channel some sawdust without the wheels lifting when rolling over it.
That's a fantastic design! I've been considering getting a CNC but I found the cheap chinese ones not powerful enough and the expensive ones too large/expensive. But this is the best of both worlds... I'm definitely considering building something along these lines.
Same here! :)
This definitely is something that would suit my needs, as long as I can find/make a table that is steady enough.
Great particle upgrades. End result looks very professional. :)
As far as showing off upgrades in a demo; you can always include a link in the description with a pinned-comment to a future build.
Please do a Lowrider3 version 😃.
Your approach to thinking, parts choice( buy, build, replace) and video material inspired me to look at the lowrider 2. I still haven’t built it bit I’m still very interested. Better still the V3 is out now.
So if you think you can recoup the effort please do a V3 build and review.
You are such an asset to the maker community. I do not have even a budget 3d printer because I have no space in my cramped apartment in a vintage (old) building, but I nonetheless enjoy watching your content; this from a sexagenarian former tech copywriter and foundry artisan should be considered high praise indeed.
This is awesome I have almost all the hardware for mine delivered already.
I would love to have just 10% of your experience and knowledge! Heads down
The cordless router most likely has a simple 18v...24v DC motor (RS 550 or RS 775) and maybe a planetary gearbox to increase torque. The motors are cheap, available on Ali or Ebay, and much easier to mount than the full blown router with its casing.
Plus you don't have to deal with the mains power cord. The relatively low DC voltage can be provided via cables in the main loom.
I would love to see you making a lowrider 3 youtube series!
with MKS Robin Nano V2 firmware 😃
Glad you revised, you answered a whole bunch of old questions
Yessss. Lowrider content!!!
Yes, an UPDATE. Thank you! :)
Best 3D printing channel by far, as I subscribe to others, your channel has really rewarding content that furthers my interests in 3D printing and production tech as a whole, thank you!
Very nice, just discovered this entire space. Inexplicably, it feels like I need something like this in my life. Now that my wife has grown accustomed to my Voron 2.4, maybe something like this can be snuck in? Looks like it takes up more room, though... hmm.
LowRider V3 is live.
This was an excellent upgrade video! But not only that, it's the first I've heard of these 2 CNCs. Once I get experience replacing the stock controller on my first 3D printer, I think I'll be ready for this. Thanks, mate. ☮️❤️🌈
Awesome! Thank you for making this video! I can't wait to get started! You Rock!
Just in time for you to upgrade to the Lowrider 3! Now available!
Just in time for the impending Lowrider3 release!
I really like this idea! Looks very simple and scalable.
I'm almost done building my Lowrider 3 cnc, the belt connectors have not been improved in the new model. I'll be doing that myself. But that makes it fun I guess.
Great updates! This really has me thinking about building one I am severely lacking in my ability to cnc machine parts
Don’t have one so I’ll wait for lowrider3, but great mods nonetheless.
Didn't Thomas Sandlerer get hit with a cease and desist from the creator? Puts me off
Same, the project creator was being a dink to quite a few ppl who were just putting up design improvements.
Just checked and while that was called the MPCNC, this Lowrider design is from the same person.
Nooo, Just asked him to change his file licensing to match the "share alike" this is all released under.
Thomas tried to build an MPCNC and failed. Same designer, different machine. Instead of using the forum and succeeding, he tried to change the convo to avoid embarrassment
@@planckstudios every mod was addressed. It's entirely factual to point out that V1 engineering is claiming that mods made from scratch were somehow needing to be licensed the way V1 wanted, and not fully open CC-0 as Thomas wanted his mods to be.
If you are going to put 240V true your cable chains you need to start grounding your metal parts, since you could electrocute yourself when the 240 line gets damaged.
Dear Vampire friend Michael, you have done quite a great job improving your CNC. You have great care of details. Thank you for the update.
What's the average cost for parts for making one of these? Not counting filament.
I covered all of the costs 8n the original build videos. From memory a bit over $600 USD (I hope my memory is not failing me).
it would be cool if you set up a way to monitor the amperage of the router so you know if it's chugging on any parts or getting too hot. some kind of safety based off amperage limits
I like this a lot! I’ll definitely be looking into this in the future
Absolutely brilliant design.. I am new to CNC's bro but this is something I often wondered about.. How easy it would be to have a CNC just like this one u built.. I love the communities around CNC's too. I'm going to have a go at building my own soon bro. Thanks for giving me some awesome ideas and also inspiring me to go sat it asap.. Keep the great content coming man. I sub'd and liked and shared it to my socials.. I love this stuff
V1 Engineering released the Lowrider V3 a few months ago with a lot of improvements over the V2. I am in the process of printing it. The forum is also great and you can get a lot of help there.
Those are some very cool upgrades! One issue I noticed, however, is that debris builds up on the wheels--as can be seen on the right at 2:05--which could cause some Z error. A pair of toothbrush heads per wheel sweeping ahead of the wheel on each side--and a shroud on both sides to protect the wheels themselves--would prevent that.
Cheers!
Im in the process of printing the other cnc from v1. I want to build this one next when i can commit to a 5x10 foot table!
Cool video! Tell the remixer people to be careful. V1 engineering came after Tom Sandladerer super hard, to the point he tore his down and refused to give them any more coverage.
See Ryan‘s post above: He is not against remixing, Tom wanted to release them under a different license.
Thank you!!! 👍 You're awesome
Would you be willing to show how you store the lowrider while not in use? It looks as though you remove it from the table when not in use. Is that correct? I had printed out and acquired all the parts for the MPCNC Burly version but was never able to carve out dedicated space for a table for it so I has sat in a box for the last two years. I am thinking maybe I should try the lowrider, might be a better bet for me. p.s. the lowrider came out just after I finished printing my Burly sigh...
e mpcnc
It's stored exactly how you see in that clip. I home it to the opposite end of where I sit and that's it. In every video, you will see a gap between my two tables to allow room for the y belts.
@@TeachingTech Ah! Thank you.
A few thoughts.
1) have you thought about running the Duet Web Control that’s been hacked for the SKR boards on it? I know that DWC has a web interface designed for CNC mills. I also know that Marlin isn’t super CNC friendly, as I’ve run into many issues with it.
2) you should consider cutting out new side pieces that put wheels on the bottom of the table as well, clamping the machine down. I’ve seen a few cases where the wheels have lifted off the table during cuts which messes up the entire piece of material and alll
Both very good suggestions, thanks.
It would be really cool to see a laser, air assist, and smoke/dust extracter made for it as well.
Thank You so much for all of the information you have given, I too am looking for to the release of the Lowrider 3 and your projects using it.
I have 1 question, what brand and model number router did you use?
You should make a laser option, too...to use laser encraver
This is awesome! I’m debating on buying precut panels for my upcoming RatRig build or building this to do it myself.
P.S. keep up the great content!
I’ve watched this series and have purchased the lowrider v3.
I know you were looking to add a diode laser to yours - is this still progressing, or did you can the idea?
I’ve got a K40 in the workshop I’ve yet to set up, but already looking into if a $80 AUD diode from banggood would work on the lowrider.
A detailed guide from you on how to install that would be amazing.
Cheers for all you continue to do for the community
Bunch of folks on the V1 Engineering forum are sharing info on building LowRider V3, attaching lasers, plasma torches and such...
That router might be right up my ally since I don't have much money and have a alfawise u30 printer I can use for parts. looks like I can go at my wallet's pace too.
as this is your most recent MPCNC I can find, I'm wondering if you are planning on Mk3.
I'm personally looking for the plasma cutter version, but puting it off because YT is limited on what can and can't be done. Still reading through the forum, but video is so much easier.
I'm not sure if its causation or coincidence but the LRCNC v3 released the day after this video posted (15th May 22)
Coincidence, I am still undecided if it is a good coincidence or not. The Lr3 has been done for a while but I have been waiting for supplies to arrive to support new builds. Box showed up Thursday night, started launch changes immediately, and published the files Saturday.
Either way, love the video.
Very impressive. 👍👍
Been watching your channel since you built the drift chair and each video teaches me something new. I don't have a low rider but some of your upgrades can be used for my cnc router. I also have the sainsmart cnc you reviewed as well. Thanks for all the effort you make to help people like me. Now I'm piecing together a rstrig because following yours has helped me decide which way to go although I'm going vcore 500. (Eventuslly I plan to build vorons as well) I do have a question though in terms of cad programs you use onshape, I'm curious have you had experience with fusion and do you find cad easy to use and work with properly?
Started building a lowrider 2 about a year ago following along with your videos - (great work!). Started going through your UPGRADES video and thought it would be nice to have a touch screen instead of my old Creality CR-10 board and screen. I now have an SKR1.3 board and a TFT35 v3 display. Can I load your TFT28 firmware onto the TFT35 as is? If not, can you or someone point me to a 'how-to'?
It strikes me that that CNC rig would be *PERFECT* for making plastic signage by adding an extruder and printing PLA/etc. directly onto sheets of acrylic. (A heated bed could be swapped in for the head to smoothen the PLA/etc. after printing.
Does that sound reasonable?
the LR3 is out. Can you do a comparison in the design?
cool omg
When the piece of plywood your milling costs more than the CNC machine your using.
My CAD to CAM addiction requires a profitable YouT channel to justify it; "Chicken & the Egg" issue, LoL
A little off topic, I follow you on CZcams and have a simple question. What are a few of the best large 3D home printers? Something with a maybe 400x400 build plate, auto bed leveling, filament runout and something I can print from a USB stick.
I noticed that, during the milling process, there is material accumulating outside the spoil board area. The wheels are rolling this the material particles. How much of an issue does that create with accuracy and artifacts in the milled material?
Hi Micheal will you be reviwing the lowrider 3?
Hey Mike, will you be using a laser module with your lowrider?
I am thinking on doing that...
why use 4 tensioners? you should only need two, one for each belt (with the other end being a simpler, fixed anchor)
Technically you are absolutely right. It will a bit more forgiving getting the belt length right with one each end. I guess it also simplified the printing process too.
hey !!!! New version is available now from the web site! V3 ! i was looking to build the v2 but now i m little confused. What do you think : it s better to go with v3 directly or v2 it s a good option for a first build?
Go with building LowRider V3 directly if you haven't started V2 yet. The V1E forum has improving build docs and folks like myself are sharing their build videos.
What's the price of plywood like in Australia right now? In the US it's around $70 USD. When it comes down i definitely want to build one!
How many 1kg spools of filament would you say is needed to make a lowrider 2 with d mods u suggested included?
Trying to remember but I'd say 2kg tops unless you had a lot of failures.
@@TeachingTech thank you
Is it a high table, or do you have a short torso ? I don't get it
can you please make a video on the creality scan lizard kick starter bullshit?
hi love your cnc machine, can you make this work on a table that 2400 x 1300 mm ???
Hi do you have the stl Made for the router to support the chain?.
Maslow V2, anyone have thoughts on cost and quality compared low rider, or other large CNCs that can be partially self built/printed?
Build the lowrider 3 and compare!
Was expecting to see a "here it cuts" bit toward the end :|
howmuch dose it coast to make the lowrider
Question: This uses Nema 17 motors? Are they powerful enough? Nema 23s are not very expensive and you can drive them with external 6600 stepper drivers. You'd only need x and Y probably only $50-75 more?
But why? 17's are enough. Frame is always the limiting factor as you simply can't use torque from bigger motors. Feedspeeds are just so slow with these.
Was interested in this as I'm looking at ways to expand the makerspace for my school district however the v1engineering site appears to be getting flagged as containing a bootstrapper. Anyone have any insight on this?
Personally I've never had any problems or warnings.
Which website? There is a shop, the forums, and the docs. I'm also not sure what you mean by bootstrapper. But if there is anything dangerous, I know Ryan would want to know more details.
I would go over to the forums and post this. They're very helpful and will want to know about it.
Can the wood base parts that are CNC’d be 3D printed?
Can this be set up to cut steel?
Is V1 allowing user mods now then? Because when Tom Sanladerer tried it, he met with resistance from V1 and abandoned the project in disgust.
Remixing is highly encouraged under the same license and is being discussed and shared in the official forum. That is something that Tom didn‘t want to do, hence the resistance.
💕👍
How much would you say you've spent so far on your setup Michael?
This can be modified to a plasma cutter i think
Just found out about this project. I have a question, does the belts support any forces ? I'd want to cut throught very thick and hard wood and I fear belts will not support this.
I am using an MPCNC Primo at the moment, same designer, also driven by belts and it has got no problem cutting through hardwood.
These are awesome upgrades. Anyone know if I could mount the table top to a wall and run the low rider vertically ? That would save me space in the garage
I don't think so. We have discussed it so many times and never get any real good ideas to make that work. It is just far more efficient to use gravity instead of fighting it. My solution to that very common question in the new LowRider 3 is to make the machine easily removable from the table so you can put it away when needed. Litterlay takes me about 1 minute to do. Unsnap the belts, hose and two plugs. I can't post links but I am releasing the new machine as we speak and you can take a look in the forums or printables soon.
Why not make your table top hinge on the wall so you only have to have it out if you are using it when not being used it wld just lay flat against the wall
What is the estimate cost of all this? Just wondering because I'm always on a tight budget. Thanks 👍✌🥃
The new version, the Lowrider V3 is roughly 700-900 dollars, depending on how you build it and whether you have got a router already.
Can these be modified to use the makita 701c?
Yes. I have mpcnc with makita router. It works really well.
i prefer the lr2 look to the lr3
i dont know the lr3 just looks weird af and quite honestly fugly
get a pi zero and cncjs
I've decided not to go ahead with MPCNC due to the license from author. Is the situation different with low rider? I remember the author was quite restrictive regarding remixes especially.
The license is share alike, all I have ever asked is if you make something extremely similar to my production parts you share alike. Full details on the license page. Plenty of remixes and addons out there with all sorts of licenses.
Why isn't anyone on the internet showing this machine made out of carbon-filled plastic?
Why would they? I've made one and didn't have any interest in carbon filled filament. They're joke and nothing like real carbon compounds or even fiberglass.
@@jothain It's just an opinion. I am interested in experiences.
Can it cut aluminum or carbon?
What kind of carbon? It'll probably do coal and some hydrocarbons, like machining wax and POM. As for Aluminium, no.
If you want to machine metal you need a smaller, more expensive and more rigid machine. And no 3D printing of structural parts.
It can cut aluminum w/out issue. Checkout the forums on v1 engineering, it's a great machine
@@planckstudios Yeah, but it'll chew through the end mill just as much as it chews through the aluminium, which fortunately for the poor end mill is "very, very slowly"
@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart I use kyocera single flute 1/8" HSS endmills from drillman1 on ebay and trichodial cut - haven't broken a bit yet cutting 0.1" aluminum on a single pass at 10mm/s
4:03 good clips for why 3D printers aren't mass market viable yet, even with good filament on a good printer, functional parts *still* and **always** require post processing
Somewhat true. But I whole heartedly disagree with your always. I print with my Prusa tons of functional parts that don't need any post processing. Heck I've printed mpcnc parts without doing anything to a single part and it looks good.
Whoever imported and modded the belt tensioner from the primo to lowrider is going to get ass sued out to the moon by the mpcnc owner lol
No, because it was released under the same license… Remixing is highly encouraged, you should check the forums…
@@HaWiWe Never heard of Thomas Sanladerer?
Dude is a legend of 3D printing on youtube and he made whole streams building MPCNC and modified a lot of parts then released them back, he then was contacted by MPCNC authors and forced to delete the modified parts he uploaded, he then halted the series, deleted the videos and only left a video explaining what happened.
They acted like complete di*ks
@@Arek_R. I know, and he never got on the forums for help and messed it up big time. And you didn't read: He could have remixed away, but under the same license. That's what he didn't want.
Ryan (from MPCNC) is a bit sensitive about people modifying his creation ... see Thomas Sanladerer's video czcams.com/video/68ohaPYyiDA/video.html. Having watched Thomas's video, I won't be building one. A shame really.
Think Thomas has some regrets about that video, he mentions in the comments and since then (note the contentious tweets have since been deleted).
Many folks, including me have made and shared changes/mods to improve our builds (on Printables). The non-commercial license lets us makers remix. But we, random companies, and even the original V1E designer can't sell remixed components for profit. Hope that helps, cheers!