MPCNC Lowrider part 3 - Router, spoil board and cutting stuff!
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- An enormous, easy to pack away CNC machine that is largely 3D printed? Meet the V1 Engineering Lowrider2! In part 1 I made the parts and assembled the frame. In part 2, I setup with an SKR V1.3 mainboard, TMC5160 silent steppers, dual endstop self squaring firmware and a customised MKS TFT touchscreen.
In this instalment, I make a custom mount for my trimmer router, manufacture a cheap but effective spoil board and clamps, and then cut some timber, acrylic and aluminium in three different styles.
This guide focuses on Kiri-moto, a free cloud based CAM program that I find quick and easy to use for light duty milling like this. You can use whatever program you are comfortable with as the principles are the same.
Key message here: The lowrider2 is awesome but don't hold it back with a cordless router.
Kiri-moto free CAM software: grid.space/kir...
Printable clamp (I did double size): www.thingivers...
Printable clamp (recommended): www.thingivers...
Milling basics V1 engineering page: www.v1engineer...
Milling feeds and speeds guide: www.harveytool....
DXF to SVG converter: convertio.co/d...
Lithophane creator: 3dp.rocks/litho...
Melamine for spoil board: www.bunnings.c...
Screw in thread fittings for spoil board (make sure they are a few mm thinner than the board): www.bunnings.c...
Ryobi trimmer router I used (cordless not recommended!): www.bunnings.c...
Previous videos that might assist:
Lowrider2 MPCNC part 1: • 3D Print your own CNC ...
Lowrider2 MPCNC part 2: • MPCNC Lowrider part 2 ...
SKR V1.3 comprehensive guide: • SKR V1.3 Comprehensive...
TMC5160 guide: • TMC2209 and TMC 5160: ...
MKS TFT28 guide: • MKS TFT28 touch screen...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#mpcnc #lowrider2 #3dprinting
It's dirty, you are now officially part of the crew!
Thank you SO much for doing these videos. I've been looking for an affordable, large format CNC for years. I think the LowRider2 will do the trick. You've made it very approachable and these videos are a great resource for those of us who are just tech savvy enough to get ourselves into trouble.
agreed
When you do yours, take us through your build for a 'larger format'
So far none of your videos have been a waste of time. Thoroughly enjoy every single one. Keep it up👍
FYI you can take apart a dead Ryobi battery and just wire it to a mains 18V power supply. Then you have a corded "battery" that you can put in your tools whenever you are going to be using them for a long time.
Underrated suggestion here 🙌
Outstanding job Michael!
Just finished watching this "series" all the way through. Really enjoyed it and have downloaded the STLs and will be making one ASAP.
I'm very excited for the laser cutter upgrade
I used to get very defensive when the armchair engineers used to tell me how crappy my things were and how it was physically impossible for it to work, Even one of my mentors told me it could not be done even as I stood there with actual proof in my hand. Now it is how I quickly weed out who is worth my time replying too. I understand having doubt, but trying to tell me it doesn't work when it very much does for thousands of independent builds has started to become comical. A while back we ended up with something like less than 2kg load at the tip of a 1/8" endmill slotting aluminum......a few weeks later we started cutting steel (even I said It could not be done!). HAHAHAHAHA Thanks for not believing the comments!
Thanks for the work you have done on these units. The low rider is in the works for me soon. I do a bit of sign work and dont need a full fat system. The biggest selling point to lowrider is you can use it on your bench and take it off when your done. I'm sold.
@@Potatogambit taking it off isn't usually recommend, for signs ultimate accuracy is probably not the goal so you could get away with it without too much fuss each time. I just park it at the end of table and lose some table space, then no need to re-calibrate each time.
I'll be designing some quick release stops/belt holders. With the auto squaring setup I'm not concerned about accuracy because I have to square it every time it's powered on.
@@TeachingTech I have no doubt you will come up with something good and get reasonable accuracy quickly with it. Maintaining a square reference between swaps is going to be the hurdle I am most interested seeing your solution for.
I’ve been wanting to get a Cnc setup for YEARS. But just couldn’t the size I wanted to make it practical. This is a perfect solution, and as I have a giant piece of butcher block from a failed project years ago. This is the perfect design for that block. Such an amazing piece of hardware. Can not WAIT to start building one.
Great job. I love how so many people say the MPCNC designs are not rigid enough. Compared to a more expensive mill that is true in many cases but they are plenty rigid enough for what they are made for. I have the older design with a 48" x 48" footprint and the deflection is so minimal it can easily be overcome by adjust cutting speeds if necessary. Cutting volume for the price you cannot beat.
Even though i'm not planning a MPCNC at the moment I still found the video useful for the spoil board and lithophane information which I will use on my 3040 cnc. Thanks!
To change start origin in Kiri:moto, you can uncheck "origin center" under setup devices.
As far as I know you can then move the object relative to the designated bed area, but there's no visual icon and in my opinion it's a bit risky.
Do you have an ETA on when you'll have the video with the laser mounted and working? Great job so far!!
Would love to see the planned videos mentioned at the end of part 3!
really love this series! i'm definitely going to file this away for when i have enough space!
Great update Michael, it's coming along very nicely.
Awesome machine & video. You did a great job improving the controls. I will do exactly the same. I have to watch it several times to know all the improvements, tft, & controls you used. Thanks
Great series of videos Micheal although I have already built this machine ..well 2 actually but having watched this i am now going to replace the current control system (Arduino Uno and CNC shield) with the SKR board and LCD to resolve the main issue i have with the Z axis levelling and i thank you for the instruction on implementing the SKR and the Marlin firmware. i have subscribed and liked.
You could just make a 40v attachment for the router plug in at the battery spot. And have the rpm be controlled buy power input to the router. Hard wired.
Thanks for the video! This is very useful for a newbie like me! Keep it up.
since it has been a while you likely have already dealt with it but 2 thoughts: a duct that allows the vacuum to get closer to the bit and/or a brush skirt to keep debris in an area. hopefully both/either of those can help with keeping things a little cleaner. may be worth adding extra holes so you can attach things later (since wood not a big deal) so you can make it easier to swap/add things if needed. like a water line for lubricants. amazing work and really awesome kit
Thank you. I really found this interesting.
Another awesome video in the series. Just one correction: The DW 610, which is actually bigger, is recommended for the LR. The DW 660 is for the MPCNC. I can't wait to see the laser work. BTW, this is already becoming a reference in the forums.
Well spotted on the router. Thanks for the nice feedback.
i would be very interested in seeing a follow up for this machine now you have had it for a while
You could make a power supply for your router (possibly from a laptop charger) and use an old dead battery as a "plug". you could probably also 3D print a plug, but that's going to be a bit harder to do as those battery's have latching parts.
I think that could work. Needs to be a high temp plastic as the terminals are too hot to touch after milling the alloy.
@@TeachingTech that's one of the reasons I suggested an old (dead) battery.
Hi, have a look at this: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/ryobi-battery-pack-to-ac-adapter
For aluminum you will have better luck using a high helix endmill. The steeper flute angle helps to get the chips up and out of the way faster. Also you can try spraying some wd40 on the tool periodically as it will really help with surface finish.
I only had a generic timber bit on hand, but thanks for your advice.
You have just sold me on my next workshop buy :)
Noting how many batterys you have for your ryobi s ... a good hack would be to sacrifice one battery case (so you can reuse the click in terminals) and cable it to a suitable mains power supply, you can get chinese switch mode supplies dirt cheap from the usual internet suppliers. Great series of videos, lots of info and inspiration here, many thanks
Wonderful series!
friggin brilliant! I just got my first 50W C02 LASER tube. I have similar work tables in my basement.. and at work. I'm thinking of a version of this with NEMA 23's and a heavier/wider belt system, as well as a 40A handheld Plasma cutter attachment.
hello I been a long time watcher of you channel and I love you mpcnc machine and I made a cnc machine for 3d printer parts and 3d printed parts and I was hoping you would make a new video on how you use kiri moto because I wold like to use it for my cnc machine thank you for the video series on the mpcnc.
Very nice job. I have been considering building something similar and, coincidentally, I have modular workbenches for my woodworking. One of my modular benches has an accurate grid of dog holes for modern-style bench dogs as a means to hold workpieces (look up surface cam clamps, for example). They would totally solve your need for low profile surface clamping and you could 3D print them.
Use double side tape to adhere the part to the spoil board. I watch a couple other guys on CZcams with industrial cnc routers and that’s their method. That way you don’t have to worry as much about the part coming off the spoil board mid cut
As well a clamps?
I took one of my bad router batteries and added external plug wired into the router. I can either power it with larger batteries or from a power supply.
Hey Michael! VERY informative videos always. Job well done! Looking forward to the next video on this low rider! :)
Cool videos that spark my creativity!! Thanks for all the effort!
I know... a lil bit late... but have you ever thought of taking an old battery from your cordless tiller, taking out the cells and wiring the contacts up to a matching converter placed in the old battery case? Would give you the possibility to use all tools with that kind of batterie-pack like a "standard corded-tool" insted of going nuts with batterie-changes :P
Nice tool. I was sent a sample of the endurance laser for review last year and it was very poorly made so I sent it back. Maybe they are better now, the one I had looked like a schoolboy had made it as a science project.
I can relate. I had to send the first one back because it wasn't anywhere near as powerful as advertised. Yet to run new unit but I'm not that optimistic.
dunno if anyone gives a shit but if you're bored like me atm then you can watch all of the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been streaming with my gf for the last few months :)
@Jordan Keith yea, I have been using instaflixxer for months myself =)
All this stuff is like a dream come true is it posible to have two 2 heads on the same machine to speed up the work?
Is this CNC you main device, or it's just a proof of concept, you have a very educational channel, keep it going
Should 3D print the top part of the battery, install + / - contacts and run wires to an 18V PSU. When you are using it on your CNC you dont need to swap batteries and it still works cordless when you remove it.
Think plans exist on Thingiverse for that
How many amps would the PS require?
Clamp it to the wall, and put a laser-jet, print head from a modern paper printer on it... turn it into a hang-printer. would eliminate the need for wall paper!! lol
great video. thanks for the info.
Great video series! I'd be very interested in a follow up after being used for bit, and with the laser cutter attached. I'm curious as to how well the PLA parts have held up, any issues with distortion or warping?
First off, awesome series. Is there a 4th installment (or beyond) planned? (Edit: whoops, guess I should watch the whole thing before commenting! Lol)
About your spoil board. You put a fair amount of effort into it. It seems a shame to chew it up so quick! :)
I use polystyrene foam insulation board (pretty cheap from any local home or builder supply) as a spoil layer with my circular saw and router jigs on a large table I have. When the foam gets chewed up enough it's simple to replace. It also comes in a variety of thicknesses which can be convenient.
I also keep a couple of "standard" pieces I re-use for cabinetry work, since the cut lines are the same. So they essentially never wear out.
Your videos are always very detailed, and inspiring. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for your feedback and for sharing what sounds like a very efficient setup.
i found painters tape and superglue works great.
Great video, I will now have to work on my Low Rider CNC!!!
Another awesome learning experience, thank you so much.
I would like to do a 'tilt bed' for storage. possibly a vacuum hold down (yes, another shop-vac).
Looking good!
Ok, looks easy enough but I’m no engineer, I’m an assembler/hobbyist. I love the lowrider and the ability to put it away. Is it possible to purchase complete minus the tubes? I also do not have a 3D printer making it tough to print parts.
Did a follow up video on your table make the cut? Interested in adding this tool but space is limited and my table is used for multiple projects. Love the channel. Thanks for all your tutorial style uploads!
The suggestion:
so, is there a maximum depth the software can be set to for 'spoilboard' protection that will override any G-code? ...or perhaps use a THICK spoilboard with the inserts at the bottom(longer bolts on clamps)
The why:
When you showed how to build the 'spoilboard'(I think that is what you are saying) the metal inserts used to attach the braces though recessed were mighty close, subject to crash with the bits.
Then I see that you later show how the board gets mangled when you recommend to clean it up for subsequent run(s). ...and the grooves showing are mighty deep indeed.
Also:
Installing these inserts at the bottom of the board not only would bring them much further away but would make them stronger against pull-outs.
Hey Michael did you ever get this thing hooked up with a laser? I watched all the way through the three videos only to find that there wasn't a fourth to show the laser. That was what I was interested in the most!
Just connect that router to a power supply, you must have a lot of 24V PSUs, turn them down to 18V and you're ready to go.
I would just attach spade connectors to the terminals the battery engages in the router, then feed it with an 18vdc power supply, possibly with (3) 6v 12ah sla batteries in series to smooth out voltage slumps.
You could probably rig a 12-20V power supply to power the router. 3D print a dummy battery that would slot in the battery case and plug the PSU to the dummy battery
never been to Australia but i like 2 Australians Teching Tech and EEVblog
Haha thanks. Come visit some time, just watch out for all of the venomous creatures.
All you should need with a cordless is an adapter to daisy-chain batteries and an adapter to plug in to the router... am I dreamin'! ...or a variac DC supply plugged in to your battery bank or inverter?
About the battery cutter, why
do you not 3D print a battery adapter?
??
connect it to a power supply!
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
I have a CNC in the garage so it's not worth the investment in time, although it is a good idea. This machine is getting a laser.
Sorry looks like my warning came too late. I have a Sainsmart 5w one that works well but will only cut very thin wood, I expect you need something more powerful.
@@TeachingTech what brand is your cnc in the garage?
Hey ! Thanks for your videos, very enlightening and well done ! I couldn’t find a video for the laser you wanted to install in it and how it works. Have I missed it or is it still in the pipe ?
for aluminium it might be better to use 2 flute bits (trial and error, since every machine is different).
for acrylic 1 flute is optimal, and interesting that a 1-flute woodworking bit works
I would've sacrificed one of the Ryobi batteries, remove the cells and make it work with an external power supply... just unplug to have a portable machine again and plug it into the cnc for permanent mounting.
Looking good
Thanks for your great work 👍😀
Would you share your thoughts on the lowrider v2 design compared to the design of the onefinity? The dual z motors and possible gantry bind concerns me regarding the lowrider. The onefinty design seems like alleviates that problem in an elegant way, but I do not have your experience.
Thank you and appreciate everything you do.
Chinese laser vs expensive laser would be nice!
Would be awesome to see a new tutorial for the v3!
on clamp height... why not have the router carve slots on the board so as to recess them as deep as needed to be flush minus a hair.
Can you do video on how to go from fusion 360 to cnc thank you
Do a "field expedient" and disassemble a battery pack. Find a power supply that can feed the router and wire it up to the empty shell. A mains powered router would be better/safer though.
In order to change the bit on the router, you have to remove it completely from the mount?
Great series man, you cleared most of my questions. I'm deffinitely building this one.
Roughly what do you have in it cost wise not counting the router. Trying to see if it's worth the cost or just go with a kit from openbuilds.
really cool !!! do you think it could work with any screen ? a mks ts 35 for example?
Good stuff, thanks for sharing.
inspiring
j'ai cru que vous êtes Bruce lee, chapeau bas teacher. votre machine est magnifique. j'aimerai que vous m’aider à avoir une pour moi comme modèle, encore une fois bravo
Are you able to do a video on the bits you used? Im trying to get into CNC stuff and I am getting quite confused about all the different bits.
When will you do another video about the lowrider 2 cnc?
Wonder if you could use it to cut aluminum and make the structure stronger :)
Hi Michael, any update on the future videos for this? Would be very interesting to see your laser setup.
Man!!! Thank you so much for your CNC videos!!! I am definitely on the path to build my own!!! Here is a question...How hard do you think it can be to attempt to build one not being in the States!!! I mean I am in South America and I think I can still get every single part for the build...the problem is the situation we are in right now!! Or do you think the guys where you got the kit from may ship internationally?? Best regards!!
Outstanding video, love how you explain it all so well. If we let the nasayers win, we wouldn't be talking here right now. Found the low rider cnc on thingverse not long ago and I am hooked. One question, how accurate is it, or can it be? I ask that because it uses so many "common" parts, like the rails, that might not be so straight? And how it's mounted. If that makes sense? Thanks again!
Thanks for another great video. Really impressed with the routing results. Are you going to get a Dewalt?
Nope this was always destined to be a laser machine with occasional routing. I think I'll still use it for timber stuff from time to time.
you say you need to retract the tool/router before homing the machine, wouldn't homing to Zmax instead of Zmin and then using a tool sensor to zero the tool be a better approach? i get you'll be using a laser but the people who watch with cnc in mind will have a unnecessary complicated homing sequence with the risk of breaking tools if forgotten.
Great video! glad to see it working, would be sad to use this only for laser cutting imo , especially with such a rigid frame, there are other router (like makita and its cheap clone katsu that works great that works great on my mpcnc)
I have built 2 of these machines (1 for myself and the other for a friend who makes stuff out of wood)and have used the Katsu router on these and i can report that these work very well i have used them to cut wood, acrylic sheet and thin gauge aluminium with no problems after some experimentation to find the best settings. the only issue i have is getting the Z axis level but after watching the 2nd episode of this series i am now planning to replace the Arduino CNC shield/Arduino uno set up with the SKR v1.3 and implement the auto Y and Z levelling as detailed in the video. I also have an Ender3 printer that i have fitted the SKR board into. I am impressed by the Lowrider CNC. i am also planning on making a quick release belt clamp system so the machine can be removed from the table so the table can be folded up out of the way as i have limited space in my workshop.
Nice use of the lithophane software to make 3D reliefs. Do you watch the tutorials from Roger Webb? He's a retired artist also from Australia who I've been watching as part of my free CZcams art and practical tools learning.
Hey Michael. Did you do anything else with this machine? Lasers?
you should use the low rider to cut out the aluminum plate used on the ender 3d direct drive upgrade
Hey Ryan,
i have enjoyed watching the build of your MPCNC LowRider2. So much so, that i wanted to try it myself. i have constructed a table that is 4'x4' and have all the components together and assembled. my Z axis will not move in the up direction. it will move down, but will not move up. in fact, when i give the commands to go back up, the spindle turns in the down direction. Can you please help? Thanks
Evening Michael I built my machine following your instructions and am having trouble saving zero on all axis just wondering if you had the same issue
Did you ever make a video of the Lowrider 2 being used to laser engrave acrylic (or similar)? I did a search and never found a part 4.
As far as it coming off the table… i see that it is on rollers, why not simply roll it off one end?
why not print a battery adaptor for your router and use the pwm for the bed heater to control it?
...should not the router base be mounted below that plate so as to not lose depth reach!?
I really prefer the new design of the Lowrider2, but I keep wondering how a Plunge does not lift the Gantry up as it’s only sitting on the table
Wondering after years have passed, have you upkept your lowrider cnc. Any new findings and do you keep the software you made updated? I just bought v2 parts..and am confused on 2021 new tech for this.
Excellent as always!
The only thing that surprised me is that you didn't try running wires from your battery charger to a modified battery on the router - to charge while machining. LOL
Thanks.
Do you have any issue with sawdust building up on the tabletop and getting in the way of the carriage wheels and impacting the build?
Hello I was using kirimoto to do some engraving of letters but is cuts them backwards. Luckily I was cutting them out on plexiglass so I was able to use flip it up and it shows through to the other side straight but if I cut it in wood to would be backwards. Any idea of what I'm doing wrong?
Old machinist trick for cutting aluminum is 1 part cutting oil to 1 part kerosene and always climb cut and take a finish pass to remove the slight deflection and you will get a mirror finish. Just use a small oil brush or spray bottle but that adds to the smell which my be annoying to the cry babies.
On my main CNC I would like to have a good crack at doing aluminium nicely, thanks very much for the tips.
What default settings did you use for Kiri-moto for the lowrider2
I am looking that this for a laser project as well, just wondering what sort of travel speeds it will support given that my Endurance laser head will cut/move at speeds upto 700mm/sec
Would you try cutting carbon fibre sheet? Eg. cutting a drone frame...? thanks.
Quick question 1.3/2209, do you see sensorless homing working via limit switches?