There's something very wrong with my Yeti SB115.
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- Expensive bikes are supposed to be the best, right? Why does this Yeti ride so badly?
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First reply
2nd reply wish I had I bike like that
Hope you can upgrade my bike btw im from Philippines
As a bike mechanic who works at a Yeti dealer, that is 100% yetis XC bike, SB130 would make more sense for what your saying you want to ride
I agree
Down country and trail, the bike is very similar to my trance 29 which is same travel and is built as a shrunken enduro
@@cooper_patto Multi-stage, multi-day, more involved, higher-speed, the. SB115 excels in new-school trans-XC style racing and riding. Description direct from Yeti
@@cooper_patto your trance has a 65 degree head angel compared to 67.5 maybe same travel but definitely not comparable bikes
This CZcamsr just seems to not understand much at times
"ride less, work more" had me litteraly LMAOing!!!!
Perfect for the bike it’s on 😅
I saw that I died laughing
Npc
Bruh
🤓🤓🤓
There is nothing wrong with the shock. They all trap air when you install the can. The blue bands on the negative side are negative volume spacers just like the positive, but they kill the sag. Removing the blue bands will make the bike way more supple off the top and you will need to increase your PSI. This will give you more mid stroke support and you can reduce the size of your positive volume spacer. The smaller the spacer you can get away with the better the suspension will feel.
He needs to watch semi Sendys new video on suspension, he really explains how people set too much sag
This. Everyone treats volume spacers like the silver bullet to solving bottom out issues. They end up with a bike so packed full of volume spacers that they're riding on a tiny amount of air the density of a neutron star. Air suspension and most frames are naturally progressive. A sufficiently heavy rider that can overcome the friction of the seals on the damper body can simply increase the spring rate.
Nothing seemed wrong with that shock to me and I’ve rebuilt plenty. When you add air you need to cycle the shock 5-10 times, this equalizes the pressure in the positive and negative chamber. Then check the pressure (it will have dropped) and you repeat 2-3 times. You really need to look into a longer travel, bike 130-140 probably. The 115 is a great xc bike but that’s definitely it’s limit.
do you equalize the chambers with the pump still attached?
No you take it off each time to make sure it’s maintaining pressure
@@Fitzyrf or rider it looks like
@@unfunny2258 Good comedian though
@@unfunny2258 ya
I spy a really cool box @6:55 😎
Let us know what you'd like to experiment with next!
-Mike
Oh ya! There is a sweet box!
Oh I didint even see that, that is an awesome box!
The lost co u guys kick ass!
I feel like a point you’re trying to make an xc/ light trail bike feel like a all mountain bike like the sb130 which is just going to have a limit
This is an all in Yeti XC bike, it’s not intended for that type of usage. If you were planning on riding black trails and doing jumps at least a mid travel bike would of made more sense. Also very expensive shocks do fail more often thank you think, also air in the negative air chamber isn’t a blown shock.
i rip my 115 @ 185 lbs. some tokens in the rear and it feels bottomless
Be careful with cutting carbon bars. Use protections as it can be very unhealthy to breathe in the dust.
I second that, also make sure to use a blade intended for carbon, or you can ruin the bar.
Cut the bars with water poring over the cut is the easy DIY solution.
@@raumo123 @raumo123 great idea. When I cut steerer tube, I used chain lube to lubricate, but it also stops dust and shavings flying everywhere..
also be careful buying used carbon bikes, "lightly used" can mean different things to different people
just cut it with water on it and a basic "ANti COVID" mask even though they didnt work but works for this with water
Installing the can on the shock is supposed to be tough and give you resistance. It's just trapping air.
Yep, you neutralize the pressures after the fact. Not with the air can off. An easy way to tell if the shock is blown like he thinks is to turn the rebound all the way slow and feel it, then all the way fast. If there is no change then the shock is blown
Classic Evan acting as if he knows what he's talking about but really doesn't
@@benatherton536 Well that would be if the damper was blown, but if the air seal is blown then the shock will just go through its travel as the air can move from the positive side to the negative even when not at the "equalization point" where the ports allow that to happen. There might still be some resistanse if the air doesnt move compleately freely but that depends on how badly the air seal is blown.
Evan, don't add too much blue float fluid into the shock. Only a few drops and that's it. The float fluid eventually migrates to the negative chamber via the dimple port. Eventually, you will have very small negative volume chamber and the shock will feel very harsh.
That was only 2mL, but I did a rebuild kit ultimately and used their pill pack. I appreciate the advice!
2:09 Yay! I made the video! 🤣
I'm really glad the spacer did some work. All in all, a fairly easy way to adjust the ride profile. 👍👍
Putting the ads in the montages is actually genius.
That chain is a bit short. The clutch on the axs mech will not last long like that.
Great vid, keep up the good work!
I lost a link when the chain snapped 😔
@@EvansMTBSaga forgive me if I missed that!
you could add a section of chain in using a second master link
Thanks for constant uploads despite being hurt. You work hard evan especially the way you carry the tripod around the top tube
Thanks Eugene!! And it's super hot out, but gotta keep the ball rolling!
Yes, so excited when Evan uploads
So nice video mate great job keep it up u do so much hardwork love the content and ur videos are super interesting keep it up bro.
I always love the 80's straight-to-VHS action movie music you use.
Synthwave! I can't get enough of it.
The tire hitting the frame has nothing to do with "air in the negative chamber". There is always air in there, and it equalizes automatically with the positive chamber, that's kinda the point of it. Either the tire is too big, or something in the suspension is bent and allowing it to bottom against the frame. That dent in the damper body is going to let air out of the entire shock, though. The shock isn't completely ruined, since that part can be replaced, but it will need a complete damper rebuild for which you will need either a needle system for the rubber puck, or a valve to replace the rubber puck, in order to reinflate the IFP (but you don't _need_ nitrogen), or send it out for that.
Man this video was awesome. I see arrogant Chad is gone and now Evan is just low key flexing with the new stem and handlebars. I love that! OneUp handlebars are my go to bars!
100%. Only ads I don’t skip. 😂😂
i was thinking of how beautiful those flexx bars were, kinda shocked that you replaced them lol
They are awesome! I'm gonna sell them, too pricey for my liking and they'd be better with someone with hand/wrist/forearm problems
@@EvansMTBSaga whats the backsweep on those ff bars? im riding 16 degrees SQLabs that completely fixed my wrist issues. I also tried revgrips but think they're more gimmick than useful...
Putting a SlackR in is definitely tricky, I ran 1 on a trek Superfly XC bike. It was 69.6 HTA and I put the slackest Slacker and a little longer ATC fork. It really sorted that bike out. Traded it to a good friend after riding it like that fit well over a year.
Do you think it could be a good adition to a 2009 Demo 8? My RockShoxx boxxer world cup doesn't feel too great and i have my suspicions that the damper is plugged with grime, wich i will eventually fix (i can't do it yet) but once i do if it really improoves i might try to get one.
@@Ferrari255GTO your bike has pressed in headset cups. You can get a headset that’s -2* slacker that’ll be headset cups you press in vs using a SlackR which is designed for integrated headsets where there are no cups.
@@techjeeper8800 oh, okay thanks!
Just getting started into the world of MTB and you’ve made it so interesting. Going to build up something extremely custom on a old diamondback Edgewood, untill I get some money on the side. Tips on how to go about things or donations appreciated lol.
Welcome to MTB! Have fun with that build, it's so awesome to figure out how all the parts work together and seeing what you've created. If you lived in the Phoenix area I could help you.
Great video Evan
Great vids man, ive got the sb4.5 basically same bike, ive hit some pretty big jumps and some decent drops on it, definitely stiffened up the sus for those specific hits, but ive put this thing thru the ringer. I thinnk you would be way better off with the sb130 for your specific use cases, especially doing bigger drops and such. It just doesnt have enough suspension for those to feel super comfortable... love the bike, still learning it to this day as i take it on more technical terrain and test new components and tires. Of course would love the 130 or 150 but i have a commencal clash with 180 170 for those big freeride oriented days.
Love your videos. So entertaining.
evans i dare you to do a special when you 50k
your content is amazing and rlly fun to watch!
That Slack-R is really hard to install but you're going to love slackened HTA
volume spacers are great but if you are willing to cough up an extra 150 bucks, the mrp ramp control cartridge allows you to control your volume spacing on the trail
Plus you can feel the difference real time. Make changes in ramp and air psi mid ride. Good idea.
Ever bike should have a mrp ramp up control cartridge! Once you try it you can’t go back
Cliffhanger ...NOOOOO!!! Great video :)
i dont get excited much for new videos these days on any channel as its alot of the same old boring crap, however evan, something about your videos get me pumped an ready to watch.
Thank you for the major compliment! I like to think that I'm doing things a bit differently compared to other MTB channels. Any video ideas that you'd like to see?
@@EvansMTBSaga I know your more into your Trail riding but Maybe a different spin on a "first time experience at a bike park" - something relatable as most videos now on other channels are just bang straight to the black big jump trails or double black gnarly tech on their super big rig bikes sponsored by a brand.
Ideas such as, Experience of turning up as a new person, what trails should i ride, How should i prep my own bike before tackling a bike park, "do i need a fancy bike at a bike park" -
Maybe tie in the "other evan" aswell into this.
Or separately - Honest bike reviews but, all bikes ride good now, Lets review the quality of the parts we are actually getting for the higher prices now, Stupid ideas like Internal headset routing etc ie taking a closer look at frame workmanship.(i dont expect this one as itll cause a big ruckus through the Bike industry as brands will get called out for their shoddy work)
otherwise, just keep going with what your got now, its alot more relatable to the average mtb'er.
I LOVE THESE VIDEOSSSSS MAKE MOREEEE
If you bought it used and the tires bottoming out into the frame someone probably over stroked the shock to make it a “lunch ride”. Double check the shock stroke. Your probably getting like 130mm of rear travel if they over stroked it to a x51 shock which is a a common 190 shock stroke. Not a big deal seeing as yeti will do this factory and call them lunch rides, but it will save the damage to your frame. It doesn’t look to rub bad though so a bigger volume spacer will help since it won’t bottom out as often. And put some frame protection on the seat tube for it to rub instead of the paint. You’ll just have to change it from time to time. Other option if it is over stroked is to buy a 2.5mm or 5mm spacer for inside the shock to take it back to x45 (stock 115) or 122ish mm travel with a 48.5ish stroke. You’d need a suspension shop though because the shock needs opened up and they are purged with nitrogen. If the over stroking is the cause which I’m assuming of course.
Also having a bunch of air in the negative chamber of a fox shock is normal after pulling the air can off. After it’s re installed on the bike fox recommends filling the shock 50psi at a time (this will extend the shock) then put your chest on the seat grab the rear rim and pull down slowly until you hear air transfer chambers and balance between the positive and negative. Let the shock return and do it again until you hear no air transfer then add another 50psi and repeat this procedure until you reach your preferred PSI setting.
Good ole Hamilton (Ancaster really) Ontario company with 9point8, they do some interesting stuff. My Optic came with a RockShox Super Deluxe and 4 1/2 tokens (2 1/2 knardog and 2 single tokens), it's a bit more travel at 125mm but haven't been able to bottom it on some 3/4 foot drops to flat that I was thinking of pulling out the 2 single spacers to make it a little plusher. You're getting close to the trail bike category with SB115, beautiful bike but man, you've seem to have run into a bunch of problems.
Love the series though!
Before the video started, I got an ad for Yeti bikes, and then it cuts to Evan…
“I thought my 13K Yeti would be the best bike in the world, but it’s been AWFUL.”
😂
Haha no way that's crazy! Maybe it was damage control on their end 😂
@@EvansMTBSaga Maybe! But it was the funniest, unintentional ad placement I’ve ever seen!
Evan is like: let's try something new to fix this bike
The bike one ride later: 🧨🧨
I don't know what you were expecting when you bought 115mm travel frame. Of course it has XC geo
I love my Works Components angle set
I've used both 115 and 130 and from your riding the 130 is definitely the more suitable bike
Seing your new upload what is came to my mind was: oh another upgrade, then I quickly click the video
I was curious why you couldn't just put more psi in your shock but I think you kinda had an idea of what might be wrong with it. Glad the bike rode good for a day at least!
The volume spacer did help. But sometimes I'd have a top out thud. It felt like a Walmart bike's rear suspension for a bit haha
@@EvansMTBSaga a dentist bike with wal-mart feeling suspension does not sound like a good time.
i was going to say i have a giant trance whit the same travel and i take it to some fairly technical terrain specialy rock gardens and the only time i bottom out the shock was jumping to some stairs
If you don’t bottom out the shock then you could try lowering the shock pressure so that it still has some plushness in the bottom of the stoke.
I also have a mtb coach that has a yeti sb115 and he is 6’2” and weighs 200 lbs. He is still able to send the sb115 and do jumps and drops with how he has it set up. I don’t know what his set up is like but it works for him.
im probably 195 with my whole kit and I can hit couple foot drops comfortably barely bottoming out without volume spacers on a 115.
Chain was waaaaay too short.
Hope it gets fixed soon! Awesome vid! Congrats on the bike
I lost a full link when the chain snapped a few days prior :(
Great video as always! Only thing I didn't like about the video was rocky trail no knee pads...
i'm still wrapping my head around how you matched the gun metal color to your levers and "CAPACITORS" 🤭
Another Evan video let's go
The first three seconds made me think I'd accidentally clicked on a Doug DeMuro video! "This is my..."
I haven't had good luck with fox either. My new float x2 is at fox for the second time in the 6 months I've had it.
Ibis for the win! You would love a Ripley or Ripmo. I’ve had a few Yetis..SB100 included…it is a very fun bike…and there is a reason it’s called the Ferrari of the forest..it is VERY fast but also requires a lot of maintenance.
If you don’t want to loose 20mm run an angle set which are just offset cups.
Cliff hanger! 😅
I'm really curious to hear what you think of the One up Vs. the Fasst Flexx. I'm as much of a weight weenie as the next guy, but I don't think I can live without my FF bars.
I didn't get to ride enough to know for sure. But I didnt notice a huge difference, if any
I use both the one up and the FF,
I can definitely tell a difference between the 2. Ive only run the softest elstomers in the FF and i can really feel it flexing/its not a bad thing- note: i cannot feel the one up bar flexing…. Im considering experimenting with the harder elastomers
Neither bar is “better” than the other…. But they are noteably diferent….
The one up bar feels like whatever bar you are using now
The FF is the departure
Whatever fork you run, the FF bar will make it feel like there is “more” travel
THe FF bar might be ideal for someone with extended descents
Or someone wanting “a little more in the comfort department”
Might even be a game changer for those with ridgid forks
At the end of the day the FF is noteably different, but not in a negative way…. If you are someone that likes to experiment this bar might be fun/worthwhile for you
I believe the ff is pretty heavy, esp for a down country bike.
I thought the one up was a game changer on my fat bike, but maybe too vague for an Enduro bike that has enough travel. Maybe ok for a super twitchy precise 70° ha xc bike?
@@MikeesTexas Yes, the FF I have is the alloy and at 550 grams, it's heavy. I was using the yellow elastomers at full width. My first ride on them was up Hymasa and down Ahab in Moab and I was blown away at how nice they felt. I even got a PR on the climb, which surprised me, but they just smoothed out every square edged bump going up as well. I have since cut them down to 760mm and I did find that the blue elastomer became necessary to keep the compliance at the reduced width. I haven't ridden the One Up, but it seems as though it wouldn't be able to mimic the flex of an FF. I have them on a Giant trance 29 with a 140 grip 2 up front. I was curious to hear from others, so thanks for the 3 responses.
Well done, customizing the bike to your riding preferences. Riding less capable bikes in difficult trails enhances your skills. One remark, that’s not a black diamond, that’s a blue trail. Ride on!
You had me dying here. You're so funny! 😂😂😂
Regular capacitors or flux capacitors?
Turned the drama and tension dial up to 11 on this one well done 😝
Haha thanks Jeremy!! It felt fitting
For those type of trails you ride i would definitely get a 150mm trail bike!
that's already an enduro bike
@@otxtennessee3773 i wanted to say 150mm travel bike ;)
Glad your bike is riding better, I just got a scott spark RC with 100mm of travel front and rear to start racing xc and it has been a learning experience. It has made riding some local trails feel so different, it is so fast but you definitely have to deal with losing some comfort and downhill ability
I think you're on the right track thinking the negative chamber is getting over pressurized which would suck the shock deeper into its travel. When you're assembling the shock everything looks normal, air trapped in the negative chamber makes putting the air can on a bit tricky, but the pressure equalizes once the piston passes over the internal transfer port. I'd bet the problem is the dent on the stanchion, when the main air can seal passes over that (when the shock is well into it's travel and the negative spring pressure would likely be negative) the dent could let atmospheric pressure into the neg chamber, just like a transfer port. The dent is small compared to the seal so could be a sometimes kind of thing, or it might happen slowly as the shock cycles over the dent. I'd bet you could buy a new shock stanchion from fox for a lot less than the price of a new shock, but that's a pretty difficult rebuild, probably best left to the pros. Still, parts plus service should be cheaper than a new shock.
Also the frame should never hit regardless. The frame looks to be super new, but I bet the shock was used from something else and the wrong length.
I wish you'd have upgraded to the Siskiu T7 or T8 and pimped that up instead!
Very entertaining 🤙🏾
Better to be the raddest dude on the cheapest bike than the least rad dude on the most expensive bike.
There’s supposed to be air in the negative chamber of the shock, that’s what reduces the breakaway force
which would you guys say its better the oneup bar or some deity bars
loved my T3 115, Love my 140 TLR more though
i also have an sb115 and could never get the dps to feel perfect.. so i swapped it out for a super deluxe ultimate with has a piggyback.. now it feels amazing..
Haha dude I was eyeing that! And it could have Vorsprung tuning down the line. Have you heard of that? I'm gonna wait on a 2023 model to come out
@@EvansMTBSaga if you gets your hands on the new range of super deluxe ultimates, why not give it a go? I'm on the previous generation and it already feels much better than the stock DPS =)
What bars do you use on your yeti?
Evan, what do you have strapped to your top tube? Is it a action cam pole? Maybe you could do a video about your video equipment and how you carry it on your bike. Thanks.
Oh, and great video, btw. Subscribed!
It's just a regular tripod that I was setting up to mix up the chest mount footage
For such an expensive bike it seems like none of this should be an issues unless your using it for an unintended purposes
The tyre should never touch the seat tube, if so it's likely the shock eye to eye length is wrong or it could bee tyre and rim combo, if you install 2.6 tyres meant for 30mm rims on 23mm rims for example it won't be optimal.different bikes have different clearance, same with forks.
'' air in the negative chamber'' of course there is if it's a negative air chamber there will be air in it, that's what it's for, the shock should be cycled trough its travel to equalize the pressure, so you sohuld have done that, then let air out, repeated it until no more air came out. on the forks a coil spring is used on the left side instead.
The air pressure of the chamber and can were the same. I could hear air sucking into the can until it was all equalized
@@EvansMTBSaga that's normal, as long as it's not extreme. I see Cane Creek has made a tool for their factory they use to push it down, basically they put it on top of the can, and punch it
Berm Peak Express did a factory tour.
@@EvansMTBSaga here is the video: czcams.com/video/xAS-97-c0f4/video.html
Think you are right about the shock beaing the wrong size. I should not hit the frame
You always seem to make videos for stuff I'm looking at Evan...appreciate your feedback as always. I'm running OneUp bars on both my bikes and definitely notice a difference. I've been looking at installing a slackr headset on my specialized chisel. Let us know how it holds up!
Evan I can’t find that ride less work more sticker you had!! Where’d you get it??
5:55 i had not seen slacken headset that treads in, I had installed a works components slacker on my Axum, but it is pressed in
Thomson Elite stem and a set of their Titanium riser bars🤘🤘
What torque wrenches are you using on this repair/ rebuild?
i know its a short travel trail bike but i would love to make a slopestyle bike out of that frame
Why would you remove Fasst Flexx bars? I have a set, they're freakin' awesome.
I have sb130LR and it feels very lively. I do not understand the idea to use an XC bike for AM riding. Regular SB130 with light pair of wheels will be very versatile. Also, you can check YT Izzo - a short travel trail bike with modern geo.
My friend has the Izzo. I appreciate you're comments, I hope to find a middle ground soon!
Hey Evan, you know you can put volume spacers in without taking off the shock right? Just unscrew the air can! Also, isn’t the “Slacker Kit” just an “Angle Set?”
Yup I knew about that. But I also had a feeling there was a problem because the frame would bottom out, and top out
@@EvansMTBSaga dam really? Topping out on a Fox? That’s really strange.
Did you shred your rear hub? I know some yeti riders this happened to
The Saga Squad is always here
How many millifarads are those capacitors?
1:45 I am not a fan of linkage designs like this, as it requires you to ta apart and move things to get to one bolt.
On my geometron G1 it's only the main pivot at the chain stay that is blocked by the chain ring, but removing the crank is not a big deal, but the bolt is secure anyway. Never got loose.👌
Yeah bolt check on those hidden bolts could cause the others you have to take out to end up going back in wrong very easily
@@johnstoddart9026 That made no sense. can you clarify?
The evolution of this channel is perplexing. Content is great, informative, relatable and above all super entertaining! Outstanding job!
How did the sticker go from Work Less Ride More -> Work More Ride Less?
Would be cool to see if a coil shock is made/can fit your Yeti. I made the switch on an Ibis Ripmo AF and really like how the rear tire always stays planted to the ground out here in the desert.
This is a 'down country' bike, and it sounds like the rear piston was not 'balanced' when the air was put in previously.
Why you don't put a coil shock?
Is beter at absorbing bumps and is beter for jumping
Yeti says it won't fit 😞
Hi Evan, quick question, where can i find the slacker kit? I think i could buy one for my old enduro bike, she needs it.
Link in the description
@@EvansMTBSaga I checked it but i didn't, see it thank you!
What is the tool you used to file / debur the handle bars after cutting?
amzn.to/3nycKPt Here it is. Pretty solid tool.
Seals blow sometimes man it just happens, this video is a great example of why I personally don’t buy used bikes for myself, I always buy new so I know that nothing is wrong at all
I hear ya man. There's just some things that aren't worth buying used.
@@EvansMTBSaga yeah I mean you never know tho, that’s the hard part😂
9:36 what 360 camera you use?
Lol
Reminds me of my $6000 transition spire that I hated. Got the best of me. Bought a second one thinking it was just me. Nope. Hated th second one also. Sometimes some products are just shit and not suited to you. Gotta go through a few products to find stuff that “just works” like it should.
Good luck bro. I know the feeling.
Thanks for the good comment. So many haters blasting me about this. It's nice to hear from someone who has went though it. I'm trying out some new suspension next to see if the Fox stuff is just too plush. What bike are you on now?
looks better ! how does it compare to the d7 ?
I'm not sure, it's been a while since I rode the D7. I'll be putting it back together very soon!
Awesome, just the right amount of taking the piss😂
Why did you have to remove your whole cockpit from the bars just to install the headset cups? You could’ve just removed the whole bar from the stem?
I like to. I've been known to remove cranks and BB just to clean the bike. I just enjoy it
get a transition spur. it has way slaker geo and is built tougher. or get an sb130
You should get rid of this bike and buy a decent Allmtn/Enduro bike. It suits your riding better
NOt sure if you'll see this comment as you get a lot of them but I too have a SB115 & put a Fox 36 & Fox float on it right outta the box...these were welcome additions and I take my 115 on black & double trails out here in orange county (Laguna & Aliso)...if your curious I did a video about my 115 on black/double black trails.
I did the same thing as I had a FOX 36 spare. I shortened the airspring though to 130 to keep the race geometry. Feels amazing.
How did you like the Oneup handle bars versus the Fasst Bars?
I actually didn't notice a huge difference. I maybe feel a little more hand fatigue with the One-up bars, but I think I can finish tuning my forks to solve that
@@EvansMTBSaga just got my Oneup handlebars and Ergon GA3 grips and arms are loving it.
you should try a absolute black oval ring