How to install & adjust ignition points in your classic Ford Mustang 289
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
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Today we install and adjust a new set of ignition breaker points in your distributor and we explain how to adjust those. Todays example is performed on a 1966 Ford Mustang with a 289 V8. This procedure will be very similar to all your old classic mustangs and fords ranging from a wide variety of engines.
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My grandfather taught me this when I was a kid. Instead of a feeler gauge he used book of matches paper, always worked🙂
Oh ya, I've heard of that before. Sometimes you have to use what you have 👍
Same. Matchbook or business card.
Simple, straight to the point, great explanation
Thank you!
This was actually very helpful. Thank you
You're very welcome
Explained well! However, the 2V means it is a 2 barrel carb, the V means venturi, one in each barrel of the carburetor.
Thank you. And yes that is correct with the 2V.
Thank you. Changing points on a 66 Ford Ranchero with a 289
You're very welcome
Great stuff. Well explained and in great detail, step by step. I need to bring my Stang over to you guys for repairs #experts #trust 🙂
Awesome thank you very much! Ya let me know, I can put you on the list.
Hello again Alfs mustang. My 67 i6 200ci is running idle after warm at around 800 ramps. But it not running at its best. But if i tap the gas peddle a little bit. Rev it up to 1000 rpms 1100 rpms it sound better runs better not like it hesitates.
I'm not really sure, you just kind of have to start checking things. Idle air mixture, engine vacuum, timing, points, fuel filter, fuel pressure. Lots of things can cause those types of issues.
i upgraded my 1971 ranchero that has a 351 cleveland 2v distributor with a petronics kit and no more adjusting points i love it
now i must do the same for my 1970 ranchero with a lil 250 ci 4.1 L I6
You didn't upgrade anything. Pertronix is garbage.
no kidding, have seen two pertronicx fail in the last week! I'll stick with points, I don't think the electronics in them can tolerate the mechanical alternator regulator
Good video
Thank you.
Thanks Just what I needed!.. I have a 53 wagon
Question.. since the cam is an octagon are there 8 high sides?
Correct. A side for each cylinder to break the connection and fire the ignition coil. 6 cylinder engines would have a hexagon 👍
@@AlfsMustangGarage thank you!.. sent another question
What is the gap for a 65' Mustang 2V 289, Stock distributor? Also, can they be gapped if the engine is already timed and not wanting to move the distributor to reach the high point on the cam? Thanks
0.015" is the official point gap on a 65 289. So yes you can just put a socket and ratchet on the end of the crankshaft and rotate till you're on the high point of the cam. I would still check your timing afterwards just because adjustment in your points changes slightly when the spark plug is firing.
I think I have bad points as I haven't touched them in a while on my 1965 Mustang. But I changed out the fuel filter a bunch of times in the past, and also got some new sparkplugs and a new coil a few years back. I may consider a conversion to electronic in the future as I don't really want to play with points all the time. Lately I have been getting misfires and pops and bangs when flooring it under 2000rpm and some hesitation when under 1000rpm. I made sure my choke was opening at operating temperature with the engine running. I may also need some new wires because in the 7 years or so I had the car I never changed my wires.
Oh ya those points will definitely get ya. The conversion is a nice thing.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Im almost done with the process now. Im doing a little bit at a time. Its my first time doing this personally. I have been at it all week. Because dad and I tried and failed to land it on the exact notch to open the points, I rotated the distributor to do so. But I also painted it to mark where it was before turning it so I can return the timing to its original position.
Very good, I find that an effective way to dial in the points.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I don't have a timing light gun so I hope that I can at least get it very close to correct with the ignition timing.
Is it the same 17 thousands of an inch for the 6 cylinder distributor also
Your points gap is .024"-.026" I believe. A little more on the 6 cylinder vs the 289 😉
😎
🙂
Hello! I have 65 289, does that car also has 0.017" gap? My feeler gauge set has only 0.016" and 0.020", is one of those okey ? thanks!
The point gap is indeed 0.017". I'm sure you get get close enough with your 0.016" but maybe set it up on the looser feel of that.
Do you think buying a vintage 66 Mustang is a good idea for a 17 year old? It wouldn't be a daily driver, more like a project and its in fairly good condition. I have a mechanic dad that is well versed in vintage mustangs, or should I stick to buying a Honda and just saving more money in the future for the mustang?
Well speaking from an individual who bought a 66 Mustang when I was 15, ya I think its great. As long as he knows what he is getting into and can respect the car for what it is. Having a project like that will teach an a young individual a lot more than some throw away car ever would.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thanks for the reply, i appreciate it a ton 😃 currently looking at a running 5k 66 Mustang and i know there are common problems with vintage Stangs like rust cause of lack of waterproofing and things like that. def gonna subscribe to you for advice 💯
Thank you very much. Ya watch out for rotted out floors and frame rails. Super common with the age of these cars. I always tell people to not be afraid to travel out of state if its for the right car. If you can find a car with a solid foundation, you'll save yourself an incredible amount of work and frustration. Which in turn would make that weekend getaway to pick up the car totally worth it.
Did I understand correctly that the gap is 0.0017inch? Thanks for your response.
I think you put one too many zeros in there. 0.017" would be correct for a 66-67 289. A 65 289 is 0.015"
@@AlfsMustangGaragethe gap is 1 matchbook cardboard wide
What would you do.
1977 toyota pick up Chinook 20R engine.
Never installed points B4, some minor engine care.
A curious women with Dad as a little guy treated me like a boy. Called me Tomboy.
Did not know what he was talking about. Taught me certain tools in garage & my brother liked taking anything apart he could & putting it back together better.
O'Reilly's sells pregapped points.
Got my truck 2010. It ran & ran great changed oil always checked coolant/ water in radiator. Brake fluid, clutch fliud.
Few months after had to get new clutch.
Around 2011 it was running fine on freeway, suddenly started chugga luggen.
Fortunately at first off ramp an O'Reilly's Auto parts store employee told me to check distributor, rotor, spark plug wires, sparklugged. Looked like water residue on old copper Penny.
Changed all that then......butbpoints.
Ran really good after......after 6 months driven around where I was, decided good to go 400 or so miles to visit mother & father.
Just as I got to my street I grew up on it started to chugga a lug up right to my parents house. Died. Just would not turn over a guy said I needed to put new points.
My mother's mechanic HAPPY ENGINE put new points in.
Always turned over right away after that until 2013.
Somebody messed with my carburetor they said it was not idling smooth.
It always sounded like the idle B4 that was strong, never to high to fast.
After this mechanic claimed it would run better it actually did not have that quick start up I loved everytime I went anywhere. Start stop start great B4
Then 2020 clutch went out again.
Mechanic said it was always flooding choke stayed on, never had a problem like this one, now NEED TO REBUILD CARB he says.
Rebuild it, truck then still does same thing it did after guy messed with carb made idle smoother. HA, says it would run better.
Start cold OK but hot weather like it had tbut points. Like flooded backed off pedal like I was used to. Eventually it would start up loe idling.
OK, a little history.
Recently, I am putting new water pump, gasket, thermostat fail safe gasket, flushed radiator engine,, new coolant. Cleaned radiator new spark plugs, wires.
Distributor clean, rotor clean but points looked like dirty oil water mix from leaking water pump fan blowing, windy here who knows on points.
Spray cleaned....
Started heating up & same chugga a lug like needed new points in drive way.
Understandable bad water pump.
I liked your video, understand points part connections wires etcetera now.
Not AFRAID to INSTALL.
???? POINTS PREGAPPED FOR MY TRUCK.....GOOD TO GO NOTHING ELSE NOW?
Should start, not get hot. Adjusted idle screw & mix screw......new points!
Good to go?????
What would you do.?
First thought anything 👌 👍
FEEDBACK 👍
💋😘
So gap adjustment on high side of the cam
Yes
I'm needing one for a inline 6 300 but can't find it
I'm a little hard headed.. so when it's at its highest corner point it opens? Then you just make sure while it's opened that it's guaged 17 or when it closes after it's on the flat side you guage it?
Yes, when the points are opened on the cam's highest point is when you gauge it. Every engine will have a different specification. The example I used was .017" but yours may be different.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thanks again.. ya I have this 53 wagon and I bought it out of state and it arrived with wires disconnected that lead to the firewall either ignition switch or acc .
I tried 2 pertronix ignitors and burned up a coil
So I said the heck with it and bought points and condenser and coil with internal resistor
So starting from scratch.. thanks for the video
You're very welcome. Good luck 👍
Thanks am having a hard time trying to set my 65 mercury comet on time can’t find the timing mark on the crank shaft can you help me please?
Stock balancer?