Way back, in 1978, I was completing my beautiful wifes 62' T bird. Pete wanted me to go racing with him and pit crew his 70' GTO with an all iron, 13:1 Pontiac 455 engine. But I had to finish my wife's car so I didn't go. I was finishing up on installing 64' Lincoln's disc brakes on the front of the T bird and Pete came back with the GTO NOT running on the trailer and he asked me to do a leak down test to the 455. "I think I broke something" said Pete. If Pete thinks HE broke something, it was definitely broke. Watching you do a leak down bought back a lot of memories. "Will it start" I asked Pete... "Umm...yeah it'll start" Said Pete. Oh boy... I used an old method of "listening" to an engine by using a long screw driver and listening to each cylinder by putting the screwdriver up to your ear. When I got to cylinder 3 I heard the "clank clank clack" and told him to shut it down. "The motor gotta come outta the car" I said. "Why" Pete said.... "You'll see" I said. Off came the valve cover, a vaIve keeper, spring, and valve shaft was loose in there. Oh boy... I pulled out the push rod out with a long nose pair of pliers and handed the bent rod to Pete. I got one of the kids to start to getting it ready to come out and had him drain the oil... A LOT of coolant was in the oil.... Yup.... That 455 was toast. The valve head actually cracked the head AND block. Luckily Pete had a "few" extra 455s. Isn't it nice to have a friend that knows how hard you run your car and doesn't make you feel bad when you toast a engine? The 340 was very cool. The way of the muscle car will never die. T.
@Dave Micolichek well Tom miano lost his hearing during ww2 when a German tossed to him a gunnysack bomb..he listens by VIBRATIONS through the screwdriver foo!
Isn’t it fun watching Nick work. I worked in the building trades for 40 years. These are the 4 things I was thankful for. 1. The Opportunity 2. The Education 3. The Experience 4. And most importantly, The Confidence to undertake the task at hand. You get these, you’ll enjoy your work, like Nick. I did!
I could watch you assembling engines from start to dyno all day long Dr. Nick, there's just something so soothing and special about watching a maestro at work. I can't wait to hear that 340 at song on the dyno too. There's something magical to me with the sounds,feel and smells of the shop and a newly built and running engine. All of the old guys and garages of my youth are all sadly gone. You're an institution Nick,a refuge of yesteryear and of great memories,past and future. It's awesome seeing you passing your teaching on to the next generation and inspiring along with heart warming when customers and friends bring their children and grand children in to your mechanical magical muscle car land of Oz. Thank you for being the passer on of the flame!!! Wishing everyone a very extraordinary joyful holiday!!!! -****-
Your videos Nick are valuable to many backyard mechanics. I don't have any heart rods left lots of great memories. You and your videos bring back all of the good times. Please stick around for the next 50 years and teach what you know to the younger crowd thank you Nick for everything you do.🙏❤
I enjoy how Nick explains things, very plainly and no ego. There is much to learn here if you open your mind and don’t nit pick and criticize things. I’ve been wrenching since 1975 and always learn something new because NOBODY knows it all.
Aha-ha! I've turned many drums & rotors "back in the day"! That brought back many memories! I forgot about the rubber vibration strap! I can still taste the dust in my mouth! Thanks for the great memories!
I'm just curious WHY Nick doesn't use the INSIDE face of the disc rotor, to mate the rotor to the brake machine? The INSIDE of the rotor is the side that mates to the hub, on the vehicle, not the outside! AND he turns the rotor around to resurface it? I've been doing brakes on an Ammco brake lathe for over 47 years, so I'm really just curious! Thanks
I've rebuilt many engines with my late dad. I'm a big overly strong guy. I can't tell you how many bolts I've snapped off by over tightening. So dad bought me all short handled wrenches. Torque wrench was a must. The best engine we built was a 400 we stuffed into a 1969 dodge 3/4 ton. Man what a fun truck. Love the show Nick.
Speed is how a flat rate technician gets paid. Speed it's self is not wrong you still have to start bolts or nuts by hand for sure but even Nick I'm sure has seen a speed wrench. Speed wrenches use no air or electricity it's literally used to speed up running a bolt or nut down the threads a torque wrench is used to torque a fastener to the correct torque. Watch competitive engine building if you want to see a speed wrench in action correctly. Electric or air ratchets are supposed to be used to to just the same thing run through the excess threads quickly use a ratchets or wrench or torque wrench to torque the fastener.
@@jeremiahpike6372 Perfectly said, I think we were all thinking it. Power tools have a time and place but most technicians or mechanics lack the ability or knowledge to just stop and step back and think about situations. I've seen 'mechanics' use an impact on a plastic nut. Unbelievable.
@@dragoonTT for sure you're exactly right common sense should definitely be applied. Always know the limits and ins and outs of your tools. My electrics I use I know what each will do on each setting as far as torque. Every tech has broken something at some point the time taken to fix your mistake is what keeps you from making it again. It's just part of the job honestly. Every tech has their own preferences as well just like tool brands or air or electric powered tools. The basics are the basics though. Always start bolts and nuts by hand cross threading anything becomes a pain really quickly if anything it's going to cost yourself money. Plus no-one likes following a mechanic who didn't do the job correctly or broke something and didn't care to fix it. My job is my pride and I take pride in my job. Just as if I would treat someone how I want to be treated.
I’m putting together a 360 for my 72 Dodge W100. I always perk up when I see someone putting these engines together. Never know what you are gonna learn. I really enjoy the stories and history behind the old school hot rod shops. Waiting patiently for the dyno test on that 340. Love seeing those pistons ‘out of the hole’.
@@jradish Well, the only thing I can pretty much say is "whatever". However, go back and watch the video again. Listen to Nick's tome and anyone can understand he feels the same way. It can be heard in his tone.
When tapping the valves, only a few of them sounded like they were seating properly. It is possible to build an old V8 to rev high, it just needs a few mods. Roller cam, I-beam rods, balanced internals, double valve springs, less timing at the big end, balanced combustion chambers, ported inlets, flowing exhaust. By optimizing these, you'll lift the red line to 8000 even with N/A setup.
Nick, when I was young I put an array of stainless bolts on an intake louvre on an Allison gas turbine intake for a destroyer. I used anti seize, but unfortunately I used an air driver (a small one), but I ended up galling the first bolts because of the increased speed of the air tool. Imagine, this was going into steel threaded sheets, (super structure of the ship). It was very embarrassing. From that moment on I never used an air tool at any speed other than very low and I only seated them by hand. I can’t agree with you more about the feeling doing by hand gives you. The control, awareness and precision are spot on by hand. Mind you the sheer number of 3/8” hardware prevented me from not being able to never use air tools to do my job. I am sure saying I put in several hundred thousand bolts during my career at the shipyard is no exaggeration, but I always finished everything by hand. Merry Christmas Nick, your friend and admirer, Michael from Maine.
Completely agree, you can pick up a lot of information when stripping the engine by hand, by comparing the effort to undo the various fastners. With the rockers removed, sit a straight edge on the valve spring retainers - if one is noticeably lower, or higher, strongly suggests one is bent, or the head's snapped off.
@Dave Micolichek No worries, to each their own. I prefer the initial cracking by hand, especially if someone else did the build (which was almost invariably the case with failures), as over-tightened, or loose, fasteners can point to areas to pay special attention to later - for example, a head nolt, or nut, that is a little less tight than the others is a good indication of a head, block, gasket or fastener issue developing that may not be immediately obvious. It might indicate the previous builder didn't torque things down properly and some fasteners may need checking or replacement form being stretched beyond spec's.. Once those initial cracks are done, power tools make a big difference in time. With some things, as you imply, you can go straight to the power tools as it is either not effective or it isn't required - like when the engine dis-assembles itself.
I’m so happy you showed us the details of your engine building. Great video! Thank you for sharing. I enjoy small block mopar engine building as a hobby so watching you is a treat.
Used to rev my 440 + 6 in my 1970 'Cuda to 7,000 rpm. It was probably done making power by 6,000. That was my first engine build. Loved that engine and car.
I really appreciate watching you work on the engines. Power tools have their place, but there's no substitute for experience, and knowing how something is supposed to feel. The clients you work for are truly fortunate. Thank you for another video, I always look forward to them. How about another live video?
On cutting disks, my dad taught me to do as you showed, but also to let the knives touch the high spots, loosen the cup a little, rotate the disk a quarter turn (making sure the lathe shaft doesn't turn with it), lock it down, and verify the knives touch at about the same high spot. If they do, your setup is good.
An Aamco lathe. I was in the auto parts business for 14 years. I must have done hundreds of drums and rotors on one of those. But that was in the 70s and 80s when parts could be refurbished and reused
That is true on the older cars with disc brakes the rotors can be turned once or twice before they become too thin. Nowadays the rotors are a throwaway item they are not thick enough to resurface.
About 10-12 years ago I did a brake job on my then new truck.I needed discs so I scoured the area for a garage to turn down my discs and drums. I'm in my 50s now. Couldn't find a shop that still did them to save my life!!! As a younger man every self respecting shop had the people,skills,tools and everything to do it! Seems every shop you walked in or went by you'd always hear the cutter going on work!!! I had to just buy new stuff instead of being able to turn down perfectly usable good parts,what a sad commentary in this microwave throw it all away society!!! It's a sad commentary to me indeed. But Nick still does it,and that's a positive ray of sunshine to me in this world!!!
The 340 is pretty close to the top of my all time favourite engines. I am a bit of a Ford guy but 340’s have always won me over. Can’t wait to hear this one!
nice video nick showing old school back to basics. most techs today would just say need new engine.. i always do leak down test. u can get lucky with over revs as u surely know get valve float and bend or snap pushrood and it throws lifter out of bore and then have no oil pressure your old school skills and knowledge is so refreshing these days + your willing to teach very rare these days
Totally agree with you Nick, on the hand tools. My son asks me "Why don't you use the air tools?" I tell him it's because of the "feel". You know why! I'd love to come visit you one day. I'm a MOPAR lover, too.
I had a set of J heads, 2.02" intake valves and 1.60" exhaust. I did my calculations for the compression ratio I was shooting for so I took the heads to the machine shop and had them milled 0.050" , 3 angle valve job with hardened seats & new guides. I bought a factory specifications 340 cam and lifter set, I had intended on putting them on/in my 318 that I had bored 0.040 over 3.950" bore. Never got to complete that engine thieves stole all my parts before I had a chance to complete it😥. Love your show, keep up the great work.
Nick ; Excellent Video! ...... I remember listening to the Rotors being turned, in the Chevron Garage, I worked in as a 17 year old young man. Nick your attention to detail is amazing! Absolutely Love watching you work your "Engineering Magic" & "Skills"!
Every shop used to have a drum and rotor lathe. You just buy new rotors or drums these days. I can remember calling all around the local junk yards trying to find good rotors that could be turned down.
I am not car guy and subscribed after Tesla video. When I clicked this video, I was confident that I am starting video about synthetic muscle tissues, not car engines, because that is kind of thing that would be in my feed usually. :D
I agree with using your hands.. you can "feel" what your doing.. But then you and I grew up in a world without power wrenches.. Oh we had that air operated ones.. But those were used for mundane jobs... like losing lugs, get out cross member bolts, or maybe the engine mounts.. the real work was always done by hand although I did use a "speed wrench" for things like valve cover bolts or hose clamps.. I still use my hand tools for every job I do wood, metal or other.. That snow almost look like blue lasers flashing wildly from the top of your car.. that gives me a great idea.. thanks Nick.. Merry Christmas from my family to yours..
hi like your post im 3 shy of 60 and wouldn't be without my electric hammer gun and drills got all the same in the air tools but they only see the light of day when its something big and needs some heat on it as well i just glad your not a plumber putting new colorbond roofing on with tec screws would be a long day cheers mate have a good one
Experience is what make a professional in any business and Nick is a pro. I can relate to his experience and why he is not in a hurry, but very calculated in what he does. He is thinking we have to take the time to do it right in the first place, because it's bad business and bad for everybody else to do it over again. Similar to the carpenter's proverb “Measure Twice, Cut Once,” and sometimes you have measure more than twice.
Hi Nick..you really know your stuff..i enjoy watching you build engines because i know they will be right..there's not many mechanics left that know the older engines .. these new engines are poorly designed in other words disposable..I've been to the Cleveland engine plant when i worked at ford..and they were really turning them out..there process was spot on..they do put engines on there dyno where the power is released and what a sight it is..i worked in the major repair shop in Atlanta Ga.can't wait to see the 340 and the 440 finished ..hope you and your family and all of your crew have a Merry Christmas and a prosperous new year..see you on the next one Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Another great video, thank you. When I check for a bent pushrod I take it (or all of them) over to the drill press and just baaaaarely put the end of it in the chuck. Whatever one ejects from the drill chuck and hits me is the bent one. A fiiiiiine way to check em for a wabbly.
I watched my dad cut 1000's of rotors....one way to check to see if they are flat and square is to just "touch" the surface with the bit....if it is crooked you'll get an arc instead of a solid line all around the face.....
We can learn much from watching the master. I agree with not using power tools on an engine and the importance of a torque wrench. It is great Nick let us see his expertise at work.
Jay Leno says it is the way American cars make you feel that sets them apart from supercars. My understanding of American automotive and motorsports tradition is that many mechanics take pride in knowing torque by hand or by feel (except for head gaskets). The mechanics and what Jay is talking about must be related.
Nick, you have a lot of patience for your clients. Seeing people run these gems hard like that one motor it breaks my heart. We all know these A, B and RB motors are getting hard to find. You do great work and your video's are awesome. I work for BMW as a technician of 10+ years and see a lot of weird things every day. Cheers from Ohio.
Thanks once again Nick for showing us another aspect of engine building/inspection.. luv watching and learning.. have done leakdown test yrs ago. Your test was better.
Of engine longevity you might overstep the perimeter When you drive with your foot to the floor with no rev limiter Heavy footer or no Nick's Garage will make it go and go Every week i like to watch this show! Share the vibe like share and subscribe!
Awesome videos!!! You teach me so much Nick!!👍👍👍thank you. There's not many folks with your knowledge and also the ability to explain it like u do. Love the videos🤘!..please keep em comming!👍👍👍
Great advice about the threads on the ends of the heads Nick. Never thought of that before. I'll try remember that for the next v8 i build. Im an engine builder in NZ. Keep up the good work
For mechanics that go hard all day 5+ days a week power tools can be a matter of avoiding repetitive strain injury. I never used power tools other than a wheel gun but when I started my own business working 7 days a week after a few years doing that I got RSI and had to wear wrist braces and could hardly use my thumbs and forefingers without extreme pain. I went and bought 1/2 and 3/4 air ratchets and within 6 months the swelling in the wrists went down and stopped having to wear the wrist braces. The other issue that aggravates it was using my hands as a hammer like to many mechanics that causes impacts on the wrists so that had to stop. On the downside power ratchets are a hassle compared to hand tools and if you are only doing 1 or 2 of a particular bolt size they are take longer having to fish out a socket and or extension for everything compared to using a ring spanner (2 handed of course). And I have to add, high speed impact gun is something that should be left for doing up lug / wheel nuts and a few other cases like suspension parts and such but not engine bolts. Using them to do up things like crank bolts, head bolts, manifolds or a pattern of bolts like front engine cover or rocker covers etc is not on by my standards, that's what power ratchets were made for to ensure no thread wear or galling which is an issue with a high speed gun. Galling a lug / wheel nut is easily fixed but a thread in an engine block is not.
Man, That guy needs a Titanium valve train and a jesel or T&D shaft system. I was glad to see you put a shaft system on it. I guess the owner thinks he has a pro stock engine or something......Sounds like he keeps Nick busy. Nick you may have to sneak a rev limiter install in on him.
I like using basic hand tools too Nick, everyone that wrenches on cars for a living should never get too used to cordless or air tools all the time. Sometimes you need to “feel “ those threads like you said.
Never put in a dry bolt don't matter what it is oil pan,valve covers,intake, valley pan,rocker shafts, timing cover, distributor drive shaft bushing and shaft,can bolts, main caps,rod bolts,rear main seal carrier ( big block) oil pump and pick up,water pump and housing,harmonic balancer bolt,pully bolts,Teflon tape any and all galley plugs, Teflon exhaust studs/bolts(big block) every time no excuses! And anti seize the cover bolts going through aluminum ( small block) timing covers and or big block aluminum aftermarket housings....haven't had a bolt failure yet...knock on wood....👍✌️
Merry Christmas to all. Plz continue to do more 340 videos the 340 doesn't get enough respect in my opinion. It's my favorite motor .in a duster which get barely any respect outside of Mopar fans .
Brake clean is great for cleaning up heads and block. On old engines I use hardened ground washers under bolts or studs as the head simply distorts and cracks out after repeated assembly. I hope those pistons are cast as you have around 30 thou piston to head. Very close. Torque wrench? Head bolts, rod bolts, main bolts and maybe flywheel bolts. I have a very good feel for bolts, however I know a few people that would be giving 1/4 bolts 50lb!
Leak down test are great for checking valves or even head gaskets because you have a blown out head gasket you will find out with a leak down tester I have used them a few times of turbo cars sometimes the boost is so high it will push the head up and push the gasket out that's why many use wire around the cylinders to help prevent it but it will happen eventually
I had a custom Harley frame 1650cc Bobby. The guy I bought it from said the same thing every time I returned to his bike shop to get it repaired. He would say " You have no respect for the red line on the Tach!"
We build 3-4 engines per week at our shop. My rule of thumb is to use a torque wrench on any internal rotating parts, head and manifold gaskets....everything else is mostly by feel. Just because there IS a torque spec doesn't mean it's a "crucial" fastener which must be spot on. As with setting valve lash. IF it were such a crucial measurement, you'd use a dial gauge...anything with a feeler gauge means there's a little room for "feel" interpretation as many of us "feel" lash differently. Also, I don't mind using power for disassembly however for assembly in the "clean" room...it's hand tools only.
Every time I watch this video, I can't walk straight afterwards. Not because Nick stays kneeling while taking those leakdown readings, but by how he records the figures on his board - 1,3,5,7 above, 2,4,6,8 below, left to right. It's as if he's looking at the cylinders from underneath the engine. My mind can't handle juxtapositions like that! I've yet to travel to the southern hemisphere because I would go crazy watching the sun sweep right to left across the northern sky through the day.
Back in the 80's I was a member of the Direct Connection car club in Southern California. Though most Mopar guys are fans of the big blocks, the 383 and 440, the small block 340 was one hell of an engine. A well-tuned 340 could easily outrun a 383 Magnum car, and give a 440 Magnum a run for its money. At one time I owned an AAR 'cuda, with the 340 6 pack, and it was a sweet car for the $1500 I paid for it. It was a hell of a car, it ate 5.0 Mustangs for lunch, and was quicker than my buddy's Hemi Superbird.
Hello Nick: From experience I suggest your replace all the valve springs. You have some really weak ones in the mix from his right foot. Also they do not sound right when you smack them. I would suggest weaker ones so that valve float will limit the damage. Also increase the piston to exhaust valve clearance to .1 up from .080 , by fly cutting the piston. Or you can go with Ferrea stainless and beehive springs so they shut quick. Thick wallets are nice! Choices and options, I love it. I want your setup when I move to Florida.
Some wheel studs and lug nuts are plated and if you oil them and use a torque wrench you will feel them stretch and then break. I didn't put 4:30 gears in my 9 1/4 to not rev to the outer limits, well inner limits, my 440 didn't break,it just started using oil after two years. Polished/shotpeened recon rods sps bolts and DC babbit bearings and clearances on the fat side and put an extra quart of oil for the race days. 7000 rpm was the most I flashed it to and It wasn't making power in that range. I should of used Team G instead of Torker ll intake.
I'm calling "lifter float" due to over revving. (at 3:01) As I understand it: when you over rev a push rod engine the cam "throws" the lifter up and before the spring can push it back down, the cam lob is past and the lifter comes back down releasing the tension on the pushrod/valve. Over revving also causes valve float where the valves stay open longer than they should (the valve spring can't overcome the inertia caused by the revving of the engine). Good way to punch a hole in the top of a piston.
II takes someone special to have done what Nick has done for 40 years to take the time to explain it to someone else. Thanks!
Its because he truly loves these engines. When he is gone he wants us to take care of his babies
Way back, in 1978, I was completing my beautiful wifes 62' T bird.
Pete wanted me to go racing with him and pit crew his 70' GTO with an all iron, 13:1 Pontiac 455 engine.
But I had to finish my wife's car so I didn't go.
I was finishing up on installing 64' Lincoln's disc brakes on the front of the T bird and Pete came back with the GTO NOT running on the trailer and he asked me to do a leak down test to the 455.
"I think I broke something" said Pete.
If Pete thinks HE broke something, it was definitely broke.
Watching you do a leak down bought back a lot of memories.
"Will it start" I asked Pete...
"Umm...yeah it'll start"
Said Pete.
Oh boy...
I used an old method of "listening" to an engine by using a long screw driver and listening to each cylinder by putting the screwdriver up to your ear.
When I got to cylinder 3 I heard the "clank clank clack" and told him to shut it down.
"The motor gotta come outta the car"
I said.
"Why" Pete said....
"You'll see" I said.
Off came the valve cover, a vaIve keeper, spring, and valve shaft was loose in there.
Oh boy...
I pulled out the push rod out with a long nose pair of pliers and handed the bent rod to Pete.
I got one of the kids to start to getting it ready to come out and had him drain the oil...
A LOT of coolant was in the oil....
Yup....
That 455 was toast.
The valve head actually cracked the head AND block.
Luckily Pete had a "few" extra 455s.
Isn't it nice to have a friend that knows how hard you run your car and doesn't make you feel bad when you toast a engine?
The 340 was very cool.
The way of the muscle car will never die.
T.
@Dave Micolichek well Tom miano lost his hearing during ww2 when a German tossed to him a gunnysack bomb..he listens by VIBRATIONS through the screwdriver foo!
Pretty awesome story. I loved having more stories to hear about this lead foot!
Isn’t it fun watching Nick work.
I worked in the building trades for 40 years.
These are the 4 things I was thankful for.
1. The Opportunity
2. The Education
3. The Experience
4. And most importantly, The Confidence to undertake the task at hand.
You get these, you’ll enjoy your work, like Nick.
I did!
I could watch you assembling engines from start to dyno all day long Dr. Nick, there's just something so soothing and special about watching a maestro at work. I can't wait to hear that 340 at song on the dyno too. There's something magical to me with the sounds,feel and smells of the shop and a newly built and running engine. All of the old guys and garages of my youth are all sadly gone. You're an institution Nick,a refuge of yesteryear and of great memories,past and future. It's awesome seeing you passing your teaching on to the next generation and inspiring along with heart warming when customers and friends bring their children and grand children in to your mechanical magical muscle car land of Oz. Thank you for being the passer on of the flame!!! Wishing everyone a very extraordinary joyful holiday!!!! -****-
Your videos Nick are valuable to many backyard mechanics. I don't have any heart rods left lots of great memories. You and your videos bring back all of the good times. Please stick around for the next 50 years and teach what you know to the younger crowd thank you Nick for everything you do.🙏❤
I enjoy how Nick explains things, very plainly and no ego. There is much to learn here if you open your mind and don’t nit pick and criticize things.
I’ve been wrenching since 1975 and always learn something new because NOBODY knows it all.
Pay attention everyone. Class is in session! Awesome Nick!! 👍
There is more knowledge in these videos, than he could possibly share with a Q & A. Man, what a guy !!!
He knows his MOPAR
Aha-ha!
I've turned many drums & rotors "back in the day"!
That brought back many memories! I forgot about the rubber vibration strap! I can still taste the dust in my mouth!
Thanks for the great memories!
Labor being what it is now, not sure if anybody turns rotors or drums
I'm just curious WHY Nick doesn't use the INSIDE face of the disc rotor, to mate the rotor to the brake machine? The INSIDE of the rotor is the side that mates to the hub, on the vehicle, not the outside! AND he turns the rotor around to resurface it? I've been doing brakes on an Ammco brake lathe for over 47 years, so I'm really just curious! Thanks
I've rebuilt many engines with my late dad. I'm a big overly strong guy. I can't tell you how many bolts I've snapped off by over tightening. So dad bought me all short handled wrenches. Torque wrench was a must. The best engine we built was a 400 we stuffed into a 1969 dodge 3/4 ton. Man what a fun truck. Love the show Nick.
Strength has nothing to do with it , anybody can snap a bolt , the trick is not to.
340 my favorite small block. It's always good to see master Mopar mechanic at work.
Thanks for the video Nick.
Thanks for watching, Gary.
Gary. This one is on video with the client during Dyno testing. Soon to come.
Agreed, I seldom use power tools, I want to feel the resistance of the bolts and nuts as they are removed and installed.
Me too, everybody is about speed. Then you take a look at their work.. yikes.
I never use power tools. Old fashion I guess. I prefer to feel what I’m twisting.
Speed is how a flat rate technician gets paid. Speed it's self is not wrong you still have to start bolts or nuts by hand for sure but even Nick I'm sure has seen a speed wrench. Speed wrenches use no air or electricity it's literally used to speed up running a bolt or nut down the threads a torque wrench is used to torque a fastener to the correct torque. Watch competitive engine building if you want to see a speed wrench in action correctly. Electric or air ratchets are supposed to be used to to just the same thing run through the excess threads quickly use a ratchets or wrench or torque wrench to torque the fastener.
@@jeremiahpike6372 Perfectly said, I think we were all thinking it. Power tools have a time and place but most technicians or mechanics lack the ability or knowledge to just stop and step back and think about situations. I've seen 'mechanics' use an impact on a plastic nut. Unbelievable.
@@dragoonTT for sure you're exactly right common sense should definitely be applied. Always know the limits and ins and outs of your tools. My electrics I use I know what each will do on each setting as far as torque. Every tech has broken something at some point the time taken to fix your mistake is what keeps you from making it again. It's just part of the job honestly. Every tech has their own preferences as well just like tool brands or air or electric powered tools. The basics are the basics though. Always start bolts and nuts by hand cross threading anything becomes a pain really quickly if anything it's going to cost yourself money. Plus no-one likes following a mechanic who didn't do the job correctly or broke something and didn't care to fix it. My job is my pride and I take pride in my job. Just as if I would treat someone how I want to be treated.
I blew up a few sure-grips and fried 727s, but never over revved my 440s, i learned from the old guys when i was young.
I’m putting together a 360 for my 72 Dodge W100. I always perk up when I see someone putting these engines together. Never know what you are gonna learn. I really enjoy the stories and history behind the old school hot rod shops.
Waiting patiently for the dyno test on that 340. Love seeing those pistons ‘out of the hole’.
Perma. Soon to come.
That's a very expensive conversation piece to have displayed on a stand ! I hope he finds a home for the 440. 👍
Another Great Lesson.
Mondays With Nick are a tradition!👍
Nick's engines are a work of art. I simply cannot understand why anyone would want to abuse these engines.
They like seeing Nick. Spending money.
You got to enjoy your ride. If something breaks.... there a guy like Nick
;)
they're meant to be used and used hard shut up boomer
@@jradish You understand that this show is made by a boomer? I think you are minority here
@@jradish Well, the only thing I can pretty much say is "whatever". However, go back and watch the video again. Listen to Nick's tome and anyone can understand he feels the same way. It can be heard in his tone.
When tapping the valves, only a few of them sounded like they were seating properly. It is possible to build an old V8 to rev high, it just needs a few mods. Roller cam, I-beam rods, balanced internals, double valve springs, less timing at the big end, balanced combustion chambers, ported inlets, flowing exhaust. By optimizing these, you'll lift the red line to 8000 even with N/A setup.
Nick, when I was young I put an array of stainless bolts on an intake louvre on an Allison gas turbine intake for a destroyer. I used anti seize, but unfortunately I used an air driver (a small one), but I ended up galling the first bolts because of the increased speed of the air tool. Imagine, this was going into steel threaded sheets, (super structure of the ship). It was very embarrassing. From that moment on I never used an air tool at any speed other than very low and I only seated them by hand. I can’t agree with you more about the feeling doing by hand gives you. The control, awareness and precision are spot on by hand. Mind you the sheer number of 3/8” hardware prevented me from not being able to never use air tools to do my job. I am sure saying I put in several hundred thousand bolts during my career at the shipyard is no exaggeration, but I always finished everything by hand. Merry Christmas Nick, your friend and admirer, Michael from Maine.
Completely agree, you can pick up a lot of information when stripping the engine by hand, by comparing the effort to undo the various fastners.
With the rockers removed, sit a straight edge on the valve spring retainers - if one is noticeably lower, or higher, strongly suggests one is bent, or the head's snapped off.
@Dave Micolichek
No worries, to each their own.
I prefer the initial cracking by hand, especially if someone else did the build (which was almost invariably the case with failures), as over-tightened, or loose, fasteners can point to areas to pay special attention to later - for example, a head nolt, or nut, that is a little less tight than the others is a good indication of a head, block, gasket or fastener issue developing that may not be immediately obvious. It might indicate the previous builder didn't torque things down properly and some fasteners may need checking or replacement form being stretched beyond spec's.. Once those initial cracks are done, power tools make a big difference in time.
With some things, as you imply, you can go straight to the power tools as it is either not effective or it isn't required - like when the engine dis-assembles itself.
Dr. Nick,thanx for this video,it was like I was back in shop class,no School like OLD School,stay warm
I’m so happy you showed us the details of your engine building. Great video! Thank you for sharing. I enjoy small block mopar engine building as a hobby so watching you is a treat.
So far, I have not seen a video on Nick`s Garage that I did not like, always a learning experience. Thanks Nick.
Ur the best... love ur passion. Owner of the business humbling himself by getting dirty and getting the job done. Doesn't get much better than that
I wish Nick would do a complete build on video, starting with dropping in the crank to the dyno test. I would watch all day. Love it.
It’s in the works. Stay tuned.
@@NicksGarage With dyno ?
@@TheXopony . Yes, with Dyno.
That sure would make my day. 😊
I want him to rebuild my 413 for my 1965 300L I’m trying to resurrect! He ils amazing!
Used to rev my 440 + 6 in my 1970 'Cuda to 7,000 rpm. It was probably done making power by 6,000. That was my first engine build. Loved that engine and car.
I really appreciate watching you work on the engines. Power tools have their place, but there's no substitute for experience, and knowing how something is supposed to feel. The clients you work for are truly fortunate. Thank you for another video, I always look forward to them. How about another live video?
Linda. SOON.
Yep. Not just a big buck production shop. Nick and his crew are truly artists! Heck with the $, it has to be done RIGHT!
I totally agree with your "bolts by hand" you feel which is important when you build!!!!
I listen to this guy as I drift off to sleep ......GearHead dreams
On cutting disks, my dad taught me to do as you showed, but also to let the knives touch the high spots, loosen the cup a little, rotate the disk a quarter turn (making sure the lathe shaft doesn't turn with it), lock it down, and verify the knives touch at about the same high spot. If they do, your setup is good.
Nick u are amazing! I learn more from you than doing it 15 years! God bless you! Take care my friend
Thanks for showing us what a leak down test is. I had heard about them but never knew exactly what was done to do one.
An Aamco lathe. I was in the auto parts business for 14 years. I must have done hundreds of drums and rotors on one of those. But that was in the 70s and 80s when parts could be refurbished and reused
That is true on the older cars with disc brakes the rotors can be turned once or twice before they become too thin. Nowadays the rotors are a throwaway item they are not thick enough to resurface.
John. We did the same in the early eighties.
Brought back memories, didn't it?
About 10-12 years ago I did a brake job on my then new truck.I needed discs so I scoured the area for a garage to turn down my discs and drums. I'm in my 50s now. Couldn't find a shop that still did them to save my life!!! As a younger man every self respecting shop had the people,skills,tools and everything to do it! Seems every shop you walked in or went by you'd always hear the cutter going on work!!! I had to just buy new stuff instead of being able to turn down perfectly usable good parts,what a sad commentary in this microwave throw it all away society!!! It's a sad commentary to me indeed. But Nick still does it,and that's a positive ray of sunshine to me in this world!!!
+Thanks Nick for spending the time building this 340 for your viewers and doing it right. thanks for showing us how the "MASTER MOPAR WIZARD" does it.
Slow low...Fine and dandy....what more can you ask of...Nick Garage....Fine business...A very high Thanks again....!
Now this is the video content that I enjoy. A complete tear down and assembly how to by Nick. PERFECT.
The 340 is pretty close to the top of my all time favourite engines. I am a bit of a Ford guy but 340’s have always won me over. Can’t wait to hear this one!
Agreed. In a light car with a different cam and tuned carb you have some great muscle and more affordable for us peasants.
nice video nick showing old school back to basics. most techs today would just say need new engine.. i always do leak down test. u can get lucky with over revs as u surely know get valve float and bend or snap pushrood and it throws lifter out of bore and then have no oil pressure your old school skills and knowledge is so refreshing these days + your willing to teach very rare these days
Nick, love your videos. Old school brings back memories. Keep up the great work👍🏻👍🏻
Totally agree with you Nick, on the hand tools. My son asks me "Why don't you use the air tools?" I tell him it's because of the "feel". You know why! I'd love to come visit you one day. I'm a MOPAR lover, too.
I had a set of J heads, 2.02" intake valves and 1.60" exhaust. I did my calculations for the compression ratio I was shooting for so I took the heads to the machine shop and had them milled 0.050" , 3 angle valve job with hardened seats & new guides. I bought a factory specifications 340 cam and lifter set, I had intended on putting them on/in my 318 that I had bored 0.040 over 3.950" bore. Never got to complete that engine thieves stole all my parts before I had a chance to complete it😥. Love your show, keep up the great work.
Jeff. Who ever took your parts is someone who knows you. Sorry to hear that.
Hi Nick,Its Kevin,Thank for puting me on Mail time again,You are the Best,Keep it up,I Love it.
I have never seen how a leakdown test is done. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge Nick! I love this channel!
Nick ; Excellent Video! ...... I remember listening to the Rotors being turned, in the Chevron Garage, I worked in as a 17 year old young man.
Nick your attention to detail is amazing! Absolutely Love watching you work your "Engineering Magic" & "Skills"!
Every shop used to have a drum and rotor lathe. You just buy new rotors or drums these days. I can remember calling all around the local junk yards trying to find good rotors that could be turned down.
I am not car guy and subscribed after Tesla video.
When I clicked this video, I was confident that I am starting video about synthetic muscle tissues, not car engines, because that is kind of thing that would be in my feed usually. :D
some people wont stop revving it till the valves bounce, deeper pockets than me love your vids nick
@Dave Micolichek definitely
I agree with using your hands.. you can "feel" what your doing.. But then you and I grew up in a world without power wrenches.. Oh we had that air operated ones.. But those were used for mundane jobs... like losing lugs, get out cross member bolts, or maybe the engine mounts.. the real work was always done by hand although I did use a "speed wrench" for things like valve cover bolts or hose clamps.. I still use my hand tools for every job I do wood, metal or other.. That snow almost look like blue lasers flashing wildly from the top of your car.. that gives me a great idea.. thanks Nick.. Merry Christmas from my family to yours..
hi like your post im 3 shy of 60 and wouldn't be without my electric hammer gun and drills got all the same in the air tools but they only see the light of day when its something big and needs some heat on it as well i just glad your not a plumber putting new colorbond roofing on with tec screws would be a long day cheers mate have a good one
Experience is what make a professional in any business and Nick is a pro. I can relate to his experience and why he is not in a hurry, but very calculated in what he does. He is thinking we have to take the time to do it right in the first place, because it's bad business and bad for everybody else to do it over again. Similar to the carpenter's proverb “Measure Twice, Cut Once,” and sometimes you have measure more than twice.
Great video for a cold winter day! Thanks, Nick! I agree with you that the 340s don't get the respect they deserve!
Hi Nick..you really know your stuff..i enjoy watching you build engines because i know they will be right..there's not many mechanics left that know the older engines .. these new engines are poorly designed in other words disposable..I've been to the Cleveland engine plant when i worked at ford..and they were really turning them out..there process was spot on..they do put engines on there dyno where the power is released and what a sight it is..i worked in the major repair shop in Atlanta Ga.can't wait to see the 340 and the 440 finished ..hope you and your family and all of your crew have a Merry Christmas and a prosperous new year..see you on the next one Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Another great video, thank you. When I check for a bent pushrod I take it (or all of them) over to the drill press and just baaaaarely put the end of it in the chuck. Whatever one ejects from the drill chuck and hits me is the bent one. A fiiiiiine way to check em for a wabbly.
Engine tear down and assembly are my favorite parts of your channel content. :-) Thanks
Got to admire an old guy who can spend all that time working down on the floor like that. I would have had to get a small stool to sit on.
Nothing worse then the Boss coming over and having to show you how its done while filming LOL!
Nick has over 45 yrs experience...still getting he's hands dirty an turning wrenches an Hands on..No story telling time...
He studied under Scotty kilmar
I'll bet YOU know...it's what we love to do!
Nice to see some old school cars, motors, and work ethic. Keep up the great work and the great videos.
Nick is a car genius.
I watched my dad cut 1000's of rotors....one way to check to see if they are flat and square is to just "touch" the surface with the bit....if it is crooked you'll get an arc instead of a solid line all around the face.....
We can learn much from watching the master. I agree with not using power tools on an engine and the importance of a torque wrench. It is great Nick let us see his expertise at work.
Same here, I have plenty of power tools, but prefer hand tool, gives me a better feel for the condition of the hardware.
Jay Leno says it is the way American cars make you feel that sets them apart from supercars. My understanding of American automotive and motorsports tradition is that many mechanics take pride in knowing torque by hand or by feel (except for head gaskets). The mechanics and what Jay is talking about must be related.
Using a 0.039” thick gasket with the pistons 0.010”-0.015” above the deck is extremely brave. That’s only 0.024” clearance. Wow! 😮
meb. Open chamber heads.
I'm putting a 340 in my 70 challenger, even bought the edelbrock top end kit for the motor. Should be a lot of fun
Nick, you have a lot of patience for your clients. Seeing people run these gems hard like that one motor it breaks my heart. We all know these A, B and RB motors are getting hard to find. You do great work and your video's are awesome. I work for BMW as a technician of 10+ years and see a lot of weird things every day. Cheers from Ohio.
Thanks once again Nick for showing us another aspect of engine building/inspection.. luv watching and learning.. have done leakdown test yrs ago. Your test was better.
Thanks for watching!
Good to see those old school muscles being flexed. Torque figures are calculated for oiled threads. That's why it is necessary.
I didn't see a calibration sticker on that torque wrench.
Nick you are one person I’d trust to work on a car.
Of engine longevity you might overstep the perimeter When you drive with your foot to the floor with no rev limiter Heavy footer or no Nick's Garage will make it go and go Every week i like to watch this show! Share the vibe like share and subscribe!
Awesome videos!!! You teach me so much Nick!!👍👍👍thank you. There's not many folks with your knowledge and also the ability to explain it like u do. Love the videos🤘!..please keep em comming!👍👍👍
Great advice about the threads on the ends of the heads Nick. Never thought of that before. I'll try remember that for the next v8 i build.
Im an engine builder in NZ.
Keep up the good work
A proper knowledgeable guy that does the job right .and a nice unassuming person with it .
For mechanics that go hard all day 5+ days a week power tools can be a matter of avoiding repetitive strain injury.
I never used power tools other than a wheel gun but when I started my own business working 7 days a week after a few years doing that I got RSI and had to wear wrist braces and could hardly use my thumbs and forefingers without extreme pain. I went and bought 1/2 and 3/4 air ratchets and within 6 months the swelling in the wrists went down and stopped having to wear the wrist braces. The other issue that aggravates it was using my hands as a hammer like to many mechanics that causes impacts on the wrists so that had to stop.
On the downside power ratchets are a hassle compared to hand tools and if you are only doing 1 or 2 of a particular bolt size they are take longer having to fish out a socket and or extension for everything compared to using a ring spanner (2 handed of course).
And I have to add, high speed impact gun is something that should be left for doing up lug / wheel nuts and a few other cases like suspension parts and such but not engine bolts.
Using them to do up things like crank bolts, head bolts, manifolds or a pattern of bolts like front engine cover or rocker covers etc is not on by my standards, that's what power ratchets were made for to ensure no thread wear or galling which is an issue with a high speed gun. Galling a lug / wheel nut is easily fixed but a thread in an engine block is not.
This channel is AWESOME.
Nick is a pleasure to watch.
Man, That guy needs a Titanium valve train and a jesel or T&D shaft system. I was glad to see you put a shaft system on it. I guess the owner thinks he has a pro stock engine or something......Sounds like he keeps Nick busy. Nick you may have to sneak a rev limiter install in on him.
I like using basic hand tools too Nick, everyone that wrenches on cars for a living should never get too used to cordless or air tools all the time. Sometimes you need to “feel “ those threads like you said.
A man after my own heart. NO DRY BOLTS.
فنان في الميكانيك و عمل بكل احترافيه مع النظافه و الادوات المستعمله تزيدك تشويق بمتابعه الفديو حتى النهايه شكرا
Never put in a dry bolt don't matter what it is oil pan,valve covers,intake, valley pan,rocker shafts, timing cover, distributor drive shaft bushing and shaft,can bolts, main caps,rod bolts,rear main seal carrier ( big block) oil pump and pick up,water pump and housing,harmonic balancer bolt,pully bolts,Teflon tape any and all galley plugs, Teflon exhaust studs/bolts(big block) every time no excuses! And anti seize the cover bolts going through aluminum ( small block) timing covers and or big block aluminum aftermarket housings....haven't had a bolt failure yet...knock on wood....👍✌️
Merry Christmas to all. Plz continue to do more 340 videos the 340 doesn't get enough respect in my opinion. It's my favorite motor .in a duster which get barely any respect outside of Mopar fans .
It's probably the best LA small block engine Chrysler made. In a light car like a Duster it can compete well with the big block engines.
The 6th. Do not get me wrong, I love the 340 and I cannot wait to see it blast on the Dyno coming soon.
You are a wonderful teacher dude !! Another career a teaching channel ..
Brake clean is great for cleaning up heads and block.
On old engines I use hardened ground washers under bolts or studs as the head simply distorts and cracks out after repeated assembly.
I hope those pistons are cast as you have around 30 thou piston to head. Very close. Torque wrench? Head bolts, rod bolts, main bolts and maybe flywheel bolts.
I have a very good feel for bolts, however I know a few people that would be giving 1/4 bolts 50lb!
LDN. You are so correct.
Leak down test are great for checking valves or even head gaskets because you have a blown out head gasket you will find out with a leak down tester I have used them a few times of turbo cars sometimes the boost is so high it will push the head up and push the gasket out that's why many use wire around the cylinders to help prevent it but it will happen eventually
Mr.Panaritis may you live forever because your knowledge is a treasure to all that like muscle..........
Nick is proof you can be honest fair and have fun and still make money
I had a custom Harley frame 1650cc Bobby. The guy I bought it from said the same thing every time I returned to his bike shop to get it repaired. He would say " You have no respect for the red line on the Tach!"
Well done guys. thanks
thank you nick nice to see you work on engine
You just know its gonna be good so already dropped that like 👍🏻
Thanks Rider.
We build 3-4 engines per week at our shop. My rule of thumb is to use a torque wrench on any internal rotating parts, head and manifold gaskets....everything else is mostly by feel. Just because there IS a torque spec doesn't mean it's a "crucial" fastener which must be spot on. As with setting valve lash. IF it were such a crucial measurement, you'd use a dial gauge...anything with a feeler gauge means there's a little room for "feel" interpretation as many of us "feel" lash differently. Also, I don't mind using power for disassembly however for assembly in the "clean" room...it's hand tools only.
After watching your fine examples of Mopar power I become a believer THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS Nick LACROSSE WISCONSIN LOVES YOU!
Thanks for watching in Lacrosse.
Every time I watch this video, I can't walk straight afterwards. Not because Nick stays kneeling while taking those leakdown readings, but by how he records the figures on his board - 1,3,5,7 above, 2,4,6,8 below, left to right. It's as if he's looking at the cylinders from underneath the engine. My mind can't handle juxtapositions like that! I've yet to travel to the southern hemisphere because I would go crazy watching the sun sweep right to left across the northern sky through the day.
Back in the 80's I was a member of the Direct Connection car club in Southern California. Though most Mopar guys are fans of the big blocks, the 383 and 440, the small block 340 was one hell of an engine. A well-tuned 340 could easily outrun a 383 Magnum car, and give a 440 Magnum a run for its money. At one time I owned an AAR 'cuda, with the 340 6 pack, and it was a sweet car for the $1500 I paid for it. It was a hell of a car, it ate 5.0 Mustangs for lunch, and was quicker than my buddy's Hemi Superbird.
Hello Nick: From experience I suggest your replace all the valve springs. You have some really weak ones in the mix from his right foot. Also they do not sound right when you smack them. I would suggest weaker ones so that valve float will limit the damage. Also increase the piston to exhaust valve clearance to .1 up from .080 , by fly cutting the piston. Or you can go with Ferrea stainless and beehive springs so they shut quick. Thick wallets are nice! Choices and options, I love it. I want your setup when I move to Florida.
Nick i wish I live closer ,I would love to talk Mopars with ya, I been a Mopar man for over 45 years now.keep the faith and Mopar builds comming
Some wheel studs and lug nuts are plated and if you oil them and use a torque wrench you will feel them stretch and then break.
I didn't put 4:30 gears in my 9 1/4 to not rev to the outer limits, well inner limits, my 440 didn't break,it just started using oil after two years. Polished/shotpeened recon rods sps bolts and DC babbit bearings and clearances on the fat side and put an extra quart of oil for the race days. 7000 rpm was the most I flashed it to and It wasn't making power in that range. I should of used Team G instead of Torker ll intake.
I agree about not using power tools, old school feel will tell you a lot !!
Lot's of great content here! Thanks again for another awesome video.
I'm calling "lifter float" due to over revving. (at 3:01)
As I understand it: when you over rev a push rod engine the cam "throws" the lifter up and before the spring can push it back down, the cam lob is past and the lifter comes back down releasing the tension on the pushrod/valve. Over revving also causes valve float where the valves stay open longer than they should (the valve spring can't overcome the inertia caused by the revving of the engine). Good way to punch a hole in the top of a piston.