I did 16 corners with these for deer feed pens (to keep cows out). If you install them 100% perfectly on a 90° angle, and each post is perfectly squared off (flat with knobs facing out) they do work. If any of the posts are even a few degrees off (twisted or out of square), when you load up the tension on the barbed wire, the aluminum sockets pretty much just bend apart. It’s very frustrating. If you have a welder, just skip these and weld the pieces together. Trust me. At $20 per corner plus all the extra posts. Fence panels would have been cheaper, and way less stressful.
I didn’t even think about welding the diagonals in but that’s such a solid idea! You still get the diagonal supports without being limited to a pure 90° angle
Thanks for the vid. I saw these and was wondering how to install them. My only suggestion would be to put the bottom one as low as possible and then set the top one based on that. It would be much stronger that way since the off-corner post wouldn't have as much ability to flex.
Subscribed. YT suggested this video and we are putting up field fencing with corner braces and a couple gates. This will be a great reference for using the Wedge Lock system. Thank you, Nick
I can confirm these things are awesome and the corners do not have to be 100% perfect 90 degrees i just eyeballed everything and it work fine. Once you figure out how they go together its actually very simple
This idea of using t-posts as corner and brace posts will work around gardens. Or temporary fencing for goats/sheep. But not long-term. And definitely not for horses, cattle, mules, ect. but glad you like doing it this way.
@@naturewatcher7596 true, they take many years to rust. And as I said, great to use around gardens. The reason they are not a good long-term idea, by themselves, is that livestock love to reach for the grass on the other side of the fence. This reaching quickly begins to push the fence... and the posts... and then you have a leaning fence that no longer contains the livestock.
@@willhorting5317 So what fencing do you recommend for animals? I really want to keep my goats away from the house (they are free roaming and actually happy about it, but my yard is the mess because of it :) ).
@@naturewatcher7596 how many acres are you wanting to fence off? How many animals? Personally, for corner and brace posts, I prefer Osage Orange (some people, such as myself, refer to them as "Hedge") posts that are 8 to 10 ft long. With an average diameter of 10 inches. Putting 4ft in the ground. Five to 6ft between the corner and brace posts. Brace being a 3" diameter piece of pipe. For line posts, again using "Hedge", posts 8" to 10ft long...4" to 5" diameter...in the ground 4ft. Ten to 12ft between line post centers. I would use barb wire, 5 or 6 strands... about 10" between the strands, for cattle, horses or sheep. For goats, I would either use the same barb wire method. Or use welded woven wire. Or use welded wire cattle/livestock panels. I know that these ideas are not what many of the current fence builders use. But they are the fencing methods that my father taught me, in the 1960s and 1970s. Yes, eventually the wood posts will rot. But if the fence is built with new posts to begin with, those posts will generally outlive the you. We replaced every fence on our pastures (a total of nearly 16 miles of fence), 50 years ago. And except for the occasional wire breakage, the fences are still as strong as they were originally. That's 50 years of cattle and horse pasturing.
@@willhorting5317 8+ goats, about 3 acres to fence in. I'm very hesitant to use a barb wire - goats love to rub against fences. The cattle panels, probably, will do. And cedar posts if I could afford the contractor to install the fence, or metal posts, if doing by myself, because I just can't imagine how I could haul an 8-10 ft wooden post around. :)
Im going to try welding a 3/8" metal dowel on both ends of the brace posts. 6" of scrap rebar would work. Just drill a hole in the back web of the vertical post to receive the dowel.
Hey man. Good video. It looks easy. I bought some and am going to put 10 foot T posts in to accommodate 8 foot forged steel braided fencing I got free from a game preserve. It's going to be sturdy. I'm a little confused since I haven't broken open the packages to look at the hardware yet. I'm just having trouble picturing if it's an issue not putting the studs outward since I'm trying to deter deers mainly and have been told to face them outward if I'm trying to keep stuff out rather than in. Giant kitchen garden I'm refencing because cedar posts finally rotted out after 10 years. Figured I'd make something that will last longer. I have Icelandic chickens that can fly over 7 foot fences easily so going to put two feet roll of chicken wire fence at the top of the 8 foot fencing to deter them and make racoons fall backwards lol
Any suggestions on a gate? I’m wanting to fence in my chickens (they’re destroying my yard) so I bought 10 T-posts. I can buy the wedge-loc for the corners (not that chickens will be causing problems) but I need a way in to gather eggs and feed/water them.
Wedge Loc actually makes a connector for gates that attaches to T Posts as well. I found mine on Animalhealthexpress.com. Not really a fan of that option. I had to grind down the connecting pieces to get the gate to be able to swing wide. They work… just required some extra steps. . If you search T Post gate connectors, there are several options available.
Wrap the fence around a corner post enough to reach the 1st post around the corner. Then use the end wires and wire it to the post. So your gate would be from the corner to your first post
Using these steel rods vs wooden post is there a significant difference in time before they rot? I want the longest lasting fence i can have so i don't have to do this over years to come.
Steel t posts will typically outlast your wooden posts. It would also depend on what your fencing in or out? Smaller livestock… I would use these all day long. If I was fencing in cattle… I would set my corners with rr ties or treated posts, or even welded corners.
Thanks for the demo. I noticed that when you tested the setup, you pulled against the corner post towards the other post. Very impressive. Yet I did not see you PUSH against the corner post, away from the other post. When I tried that, my diagonal post simply fell out of the brackets. Did I do something wrong, or is this a design defect?
@@thebriarpatch5105 Okaaay. And when a gate is the only thing on one side of the vertical post? The weight of the gate is PULLING on the vertical post where the diagonal meets it, not PUSHING.
To all those considering these...you really have to shop around online. Some shops are simply way too high and some are cheaper than the prices listed below. Has anyone used these corners on long fencing runs? How do they hold up?
Thanks for watching! I found ours on animalhealthexpress.com, they seemed to be the most affordable and quick shipping. I have 6 of these corner braces in place on our pasture. Longest run is 110 yards between the two. I have two horizontal braces in between and they’re holding great. Be careful not to overstretch when pulling your fencing. It’s also critical that when setting the post for the corners braces that they are perfectly in line. If they’re off in alignment an inch or so… it can really stress the angle brackets when tension in applied. Hope this helps!
I have sheep, I’ve been told goats are completely different. I have the standard 47in height fencing and it’s holding up great. No electric and no barbwire and no issues.
Been running 47 inch high goat fence for almost a decade. No issues. About to test out Fastlock Woven Wire, 7/36"/24", 12½ Ga with two hot wires up top and one offset on the outside for preadators. Hopefully that will work out because it's much cheaper per linear foot than 4x4 47 inch goat/sheep fence. Woven wire and electric netting as perimeter fence at different times of year for different fields and browsing applications. The goats could definitely jump it but they never have. They have plenty of forage inside the fence and the animals they hear every night outside the fences and barns most likely make them want to stay inside my perimeter fencing. Please note the current group I have have been here with me for almost 3 years and I work with/handle them daily. Coyote, and now confirmed wolf, pressure here is VERY heavy. I have a strong suspicion it keeps the goats inside of my fencing. Daily fence checks here are a must and always will be. Plenty of videos on my channel where you can see fencing.
They work, but wow the price of these is insane nowadays… if I used them for the 4 corners I needed it was over $120 for the hardware needed… I set 7/8 treated posts with 3/4 cross rails and wing posts then cross wired with 2 strand twisted 12 gauge wire and came out under what these and t posts would have cost, and have a better looking fence
Interesting. can you share a video that shows how what you did is done? i don't want to just assume that some video i think might be what you are describing is really comparable. i am NOT asking you to make a video, but I do want to see the same/equivalent process to your.
@Jim Guinn I just bought some from tractor supply, bit on the pricy side at 23ish$ per corner and then needing 2 extra t posts costing 7ish$ each. So that's getting very near $40 per corner. But I'm very happy with how easy the corner installs so only regret is being in to much of a hurry to price shop online for them.
I used a carpenters square at the base of my center post just to get a basic line. There’s mention of tension issues in some of the comments if not square. It doesn’t have to be perfect… I used a tractor to tension my line, I have 8 of these installed… all have held accordingly.
Wouldn’t reccomend that for a permanent fence, just look how how much it moves when you pull it. An H brace is much cheaper and easier to put up, all you need is a spade, metal bar for tamping, saw, fencing staples, wire, fencing pliers and a hammer Much stronger will last 20 years
😆 Nobody agrees on what to call the things on a tpost - what you called a batwing I've seen/heard called the plate or the spade or the flag. The 'knobs' was pretty good, they've also been called the bumps, the nubbies or even "the tines"
Nice job -clean simple explanation..thanks...I'll give a like and subscribe right now, and I really don't get 54K views and and only 941 likes..looked like an excellent way to fence without spending a fortune...
$50 is pretty off. Each wedge lock kit costs $20+.. You'll need 4 for all corners and the T posts are about $6 each and will need 4 for each corner, 16 total t posts just for corners and 4 packs of wedge locks. You're looking at $180
Was able to find some closer to $14. So be around $150 instead of 180 but still far off from $50. Even if you were only talking about the price of a single corner, which idk why you would because you need four corners for your fence lol
Pricing has gone up a couple of times since I posted this. Cost for my t post at time of posting was 3.99 for a 6 footer, I paid $20 for my kit. I was in each corner set for around $50. That will vary depending on location. The same post that I paid 3.99 for are now $4.25. You’re correct on the four corners, I was stating for cost of each Individual corner.
@@thebriarpatch5105 thanks for the reply. Better said in video cause i noticed you never specified total price, price of materials or just price per corner and could be misleading to majority watching thinking its $50 overall
@@thebriarpatch5105 I am buying similar materials now at Tractor Supply, and a 6-ft T-post is $5.19, and the Wedge Locs are about $21 for each corner set. And it was difficult to find the corner kits. We had to go to three stores to buy 4 corner sets! I'm hoping our fence will be a success. We are using 7-ft posts and 6-ft braces, so the brackets will be a bit lower than yours were. Braces have to be smaller bc of short side dimension (about 15 ft).
Used 3/16 galvanized cable with a turnbuckle for tension adjustment, worked great for temporary fencing. Spaced posts 10ft apart so this technique wouldn't work.
I did 16 corners with these for deer feed pens (to keep cows out). If you install them 100% perfectly on a 90° angle, and each post is perfectly squared off (flat with knobs facing out) they do work. If any of the posts are even a few degrees off (twisted or out of square), when you load up the tension on the barbed wire, the aluminum sockets pretty much just bend apart. It’s very frustrating. If you have a welder, just skip these and weld the pieces together. Trust me. At $20 per corner plus all the extra posts. Fence panels would have been cheaper, and way less stressful.
I didn’t even think about welding the diagonals in but that’s such a solid idea! You still get the diagonal supports without being limited to a pure 90° angle
do a video, please!
Thanks for the vid. I saw these and was wondering how to install them. My only suggestion would be to put the bottom one as low as possible and then set the top one based on that. It would be much stronger that way since the off-corner post wouldn't have as much ability to flex.
Best instructional video on the internet. Good Job!
Appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching!
THANKS for sharing the wedge loc install!! I'm going to use this because it's easy up & easy take down.👏
Thanks man. You talked fast and efficient. Helped me out tremendously
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the lesson. I’ll be using my wedge loc system tomorrow 👍
Subscribed. YT suggested this video and we are putting up field fencing with corner braces and a couple gates. This will be a great reference for using the Wedge Lock system. Thank you,
Nick
Awesome! Thank you!
Great explanation! Clear, simple & all the necessary information. Many thanks!
Quite welcome! Thanks for watching!
I can confirm these things are awesome and the corners do not have to be 100% perfect 90 degrees i just eyeballed everything and it work fine. Once you figure out how they go together its actually very simple
Great video explaining how to install these
Excellent video!
Succinct, perfect explanation. Thank you!
Quite welcome! Thanks for watching!
This is awesome, thank you! We're about to do our goat fencing.
thanks I have never installed that type of brace and you did not know how to do it
I like this a lot
Thank you!
Great video! Good instruction and no B.S. 👍
Glad it helped
This idea of using t-posts as corner and brace posts will work around gardens. Or temporary fencing for goats/sheep. But not long-term. And definitely not for horses, cattle, mules, ect. but glad you like doing it this way.
Why not long term? They will not rot.
@@naturewatcher7596 true, they take many years to rust.
And as I said, great to use around gardens.
The reason they are not a good long-term idea, by themselves, is that livestock love to reach for the grass on the other side of the fence. This reaching quickly begins to push the fence... and the posts... and then you have a leaning fence that no longer contains the livestock.
@@willhorting5317 So what fencing do you recommend for animals? I really want to keep my goats away from the house (they are free roaming and actually happy about it, but my yard is the mess because of it :) ).
@@naturewatcher7596 how many acres are you wanting to fence off?
How many animals?
Personally, for corner and brace posts, I prefer Osage Orange (some people, such as myself, refer to them as "Hedge") posts that are 8 to 10 ft long. With an average diameter of 10 inches.
Putting 4ft in the ground.
Five to 6ft between the corner and brace posts. Brace being a 3" diameter piece of pipe.
For line posts, again using "Hedge", posts 8" to 10ft long...4" to 5" diameter...in the ground 4ft.
Ten to 12ft between line post centers.
I would use barb wire, 5 or 6 strands... about 10" between the strands, for cattle, horses or sheep.
For goats, I would either use the same barb wire method. Or use welded woven wire. Or use welded wire cattle/livestock panels.
I know that these ideas are not what many of the current fence builders use.
But they are the fencing methods that my father taught me, in the 1960s and 1970s.
Yes, eventually the wood posts will rot.
But if the fence is built with new posts to begin with, those posts will generally outlive the you.
We replaced every fence on our pastures (a total of nearly 16 miles of fence), 50 years ago.
And except for the occasional wire breakage, the fences are still as strong as they were originally.
That's 50 years of cattle and horse pasturing.
@@willhorting5317 8+ goats, about 3 acres to fence in. I'm very hesitant to use a barb wire - goats love to rub against fences. The cattle panels, probably, will do. And cedar posts if I could afford the contractor to install the fence, or metal posts, if doing by myself, because I just can't imagine how I could haul an 8-10 ft wooden post around. :)
Thanks good to the point vedio
Im going to try welding a 3/8" metal dowel on both ends of the brace posts. 6" of scrap rebar would work. Just drill a hole in the back web of the vertical post to receive the dowel.
Great video. I got some of these from Tractor Supply.
Nice 👍
Hey man. Good video. It looks easy. I bought some and am going to put 10 foot T posts in to accommodate 8 foot forged steel braided fencing I got free from a game preserve. It's going to be sturdy.
I'm a little confused since I haven't broken open the packages to look at the hardware yet. I'm just having trouble picturing if it's an issue not putting the studs outward since I'm trying to deter deers mainly and have been told to face them outward if I'm trying to keep stuff out rather than in. Giant kitchen garden I'm refencing because cedar posts finally rotted out after 10 years. Figured I'd make something that will last longer.
I have Icelandic chickens that can fly over 7 foot fences easily so going to put two feet roll of chicken wire fence at the top of the 8 foot fencing to deter them and make racoons fall backwards lol
If you need it to be more sturdy you can use the horizontal brace but you will need to cut the post to size
way easier than dead manning thanks brother
Absolutely! Glad to help!
Thanks
:)
Hi , how do you make a horizontal grid by using t post . What kind of connectors can be used? Please help!
Any suggestions on a gate? I’m wanting to fence in my chickens (they’re destroying my yard) so I bought 10 T-posts. I can buy the wedge-loc for the corners (not that chickens will be causing problems) but I need a way in to gather eggs and feed/water them.
Wedge Loc actually makes a connector for gates that attaches to T Posts as well. I found mine on Animalhealthexpress.com.
Not really a fan of that option. I had to grind down the connecting pieces to get the gate to be able to swing wide. They work… just required some extra steps. . If you search T Post gate connectors, there are several options available.
@@thebriarpatch5105 thank you!
Wrap the fence around a corner post enough to reach the 1st post around the corner. Then use the end wires and wire it to the post. So your gate would be from the corner to your first post
Using these steel rods vs wooden post is there a significant difference in time before they rot? I want the longest lasting fence i can have so i don't have to do this over years to come.
Steel t posts will typically outlast your wooden posts. It would also depend on what your fencing in or out? Smaller livestock… I would use these all day long. If I was fencing in cattle… I would set my corners with rr ties or treated posts, or even welded corners.
Thanks for the demo.
I noticed that when you tested the setup, you pulled against the corner post towards the other post. Very impressive.
Yet I did not see you PUSH against the corner post, away from the other post.
When I tried that, my diagonal post simply fell out of the brackets.
Did I do something wrong, or is this a design defect?
No, that’s correct. The tension from the fence when applied to the outside of that center will hold those in place.
@@thebriarpatch5105 Okaaay.
And when a gate is the only thing on one side of the vertical post?
The weight of the gate is PULLING on the vertical post where the diagonal meets it, not PUSHING.
Mine didn't last through the installation. Totally mangled everyone while tensioning fence
To all those considering these...you really have to shop around online. Some shops are simply way too high and some are cheaper than the prices listed below. Has anyone used these corners on long fencing runs? How do they hold up?
Thanks for watching! I found ours on animalhealthexpress.com, they seemed to be the most affordable and quick shipping.
I have 6 of these corner braces in place on our pasture. Longest run is 110 yards between the two. I have two horizontal braces in between and they’re holding great.
Be careful not to overstretch when pulling your fencing.
It’s also critical that when setting the post for the corners braces that they are perfectly in line. If they’re off in alignment an inch or so… it can really stress the angle brackets when tension in applied.
Hope this helps!
@@thebriarpatch5105 It does, thank you for the tips!
So far how is the relatively low fence height working with goats? (if you have them)
I have sheep, I’ve been told goats are completely different. I have the standard 47in height fencing and it’s holding up great. No electric and no barbwire and no issues.
Been running 47 inch high goat fence for almost a decade. No issues. About to test out Fastlock Woven Wire, 7/36"/24", 12½ Ga with two hot wires up top and one offset on the outside for preadators. Hopefully that will work out because it's much cheaper per linear foot than 4x4 47 inch goat/sheep fence. Woven wire and electric netting as perimeter fence at different times of year for different fields and browsing applications. The goats could definitely jump it but they never have. They have plenty of forage inside the fence and the animals they hear every night outside the fences and barns most likely make them want to stay inside my perimeter fencing. Please note the current group I have have been here with me for almost 3 years and I work with/handle them daily. Coyote, and now confirmed wolf, pressure here is VERY heavy. I have a strong suspicion it keeps the goats inside of my fencing. Daily fence checks here are a must and always will be. Plenty of videos on my channel where you can see fencing.
Do the wedge lock assembly come apart easily?? The fence we are installing is going to be temporary.
They do. From my experience, I was able to dismantle by hand. If not, a hammer and a tap on a flat head screw driver would make quick work!
I'm with @livingthedreamag 👌
They work, but wow the price of these is insane nowadays… if I used them for the 4 corners I needed it was over $120 for the hardware needed… I set 7/8 treated posts with 3/4 cross rails and wing posts then cross wired with 2 strand twisted 12 gauge wire and came out under what these and t posts would have cost, and have a better looking fence
Interesting.
can you share a video that shows how what you did is done? i don't want to just assume that some video i think might be what you are describing is really comparable.
i am NOT asking you to make a video, but I do want to see the same/equivalent process to your.
@Jim Guinn I just bought some from tractor supply, bit on the pricy side at 23ish$ per corner and then needing 2 extra t posts costing 7ish$ each.
So that's getting very near $40 per corner.
But I'm very happy with how easy the corner installs so only regret is being in to much of a hurry to price shop online for them.
Do you have a picture of what that looks like. I need to do a fence like this asap and want to do it right.
What's the best method to making sure tposts are at 90 degrees?
I used a carpenters square at the base of my center post just to get a basic line. There’s mention of tension issues in some of the comments if not square. It doesn’t have to be perfect… I used a tractor to tension my line, I have 8 of these installed… all have held accordingly.
@@thebriarpatch5105 thanks for the reply! Working on a fence this week. Merry Christmas!
What about that little bat wing? Those are sharp corners now at shin level
True.. You can knock those off with a hammer fairly easily on the two posts you’re using as braces.
How is this easier and cheaper than using a cordless drill, drilling a couple holes and putting a couple bolts in?
That's a great idea I might save for later!
But these are a "no extra tools needed" option and definitely easier then drilling metal.
Wouldn’t reccomend that for a permanent fence, just look how how much it moves when you pull it. An H brace is much cheaper and easier to put up, all you need is a spade, metal bar for tamping, saw, fencing staples, wire, fencing pliers and a hammer
Much stronger will last 20 years
I tried these several times and did not have good luck with them. They were flimsy and inferior to a regular H brace.
Can u make more videos please
We sure will:) thanks for watching!
Great job. I don't have the money for all that nonesense.
😆 Nobody agrees on what to call the things on a tpost - what you called a batwing I've seen/heard called the plate or the spade or the flag. The 'knobs' was pretty good, they've also been called the bumps, the nubbies or even "the tines"
Nice job -clean simple explanation..thanks...I'll give a like and subscribe right now, and I really don't get 54K views and and only 941 likes..looked like an excellent way to fence without spending a fortune...
8 bucks a t post here in ontario Canada.
Dang!
I think you might want to remove the LINK behind the #205 in your description. NIghtmare Fuel (giant lice removal).
Good call:) updated! TY
$50 is pretty off. Each wedge lock kit costs $20+.. You'll need 4 for all corners and the T posts are about $6 each and will need 4 for each corner, 16 total t posts just for corners and 4 packs of wedge locks. You're looking at $180
Was able to find some closer to $14. So be around $150 instead of 180 but still far off from $50. Even if you were only talking about the price of a single corner, which idk why you would because you need four corners for your fence lol
Pricing has gone up a couple of times since I posted this. Cost for my t post at time of posting was 3.99 for a 6 footer, I paid $20 for my kit. I was in each corner set for around $50. That will vary depending on location. The same post that I paid 3.99 for are now $4.25. You’re correct on the four corners, I was stating for cost of each Individual corner.
@@thebriarpatch5105 thanks for the reply. Better said in video cause i noticed you never specified total price, price of materials or just price per corner and could be misleading to majority watching thinking its $50 overall
@@thebriarpatch5105 I am buying similar materials now at Tractor Supply, and a 6-ft T-post is $5.19, and the Wedge Locs are about $21 for each corner set. And it was difficult to find the corner kits. We had to go to three stores to buy 4 corner sets! I'm hoping our fence will be a success. We are using 7-ft posts and 6-ft braces, so the brackets will be a bit lower than yours were. Braces have to be smaller bc of short side dimension (about 15 ft).
I believe he was talking about one corner.
cement would do....
No it wouldn’t
Used 3/16 galvanized cable with a turnbuckle for tension adjustment, worked great for temporary fencing. Spaced posts 10ft apart so this technique wouldn't work.
With the price of the T posts 5 per corner is just too much. Just use 3 wood posts like back in the day.
This system is a joke. Don't be lazy. Do it right!