I picked up a council tools "sport utility axe" at a pallet liquidation store for cheap ($10.50) great smaller axe for anyone especially for an old duff with a little heart failure 65 yr.s of age but still loving using an axe.
Greetings from the forests of BC Canada! Fortunately the mass produced axes usually have a significant swell beneath the eye, some more than the one you have here. The only (unintended) use of that swell it can give you a little leeway if you over strike. In other words you can remove some material of the damaged handle and still stay outside the dimensions of the eye of the axe. Since any thickness of wood larger than the eye of the axe does not increase the shafts strength when levering, it can be sanded back. The weakest point in an axe handle is usually where it enters the eye as this is the fulcrum point. This is why collared axes, or axe heads with 'ears' are stronger under leverage.
Genuine tung oil is non toxic but it does take a long time to cure. The tung oil finishes sold at hardware stores and such is actually not tung oil at all. It's linseed oil and plasticizers and synthetic drying agents, and it is toxic. I don't mind that however because there's a reason they make it that way. It dries quick and offers a resilient glossy finish. Some don't like the tacky feel but I think it adds grip and it looks good. It also creates a fairly impermeable layer which keeps out moisture and dirt. And it doesn't need to be reapplied over and over like boiled linseed oil. Danish oil finish is a good one too. It provides a darker look like a stain.
You might enjoy checking out the Real Milk Paint Company and their “Half and Half” tung oil that is blended with citrus oil ( which aids penetration/drying while still maintaining a non volatile chemical content). They sell small sample jars for a nominal price. They have a Half and Half Dark which is a deeper more dark/rustic hue in addition to their straight half and half (which is a natural clearish color ) - Very fine products if you’re interested in getting away from harsh chemicals while still having great protection, conditioning and appearance for your tool handles.
I have friends like that too. Nice repair on the handle, should hold fine. I do like those stones but I would totally drop them and they would totally break.
I absolutely love Arkansas stones on basic steels that aren't too hard. If you can get your hands on a real old school washita stone, they are fantastic with axes, chisels, and even straight razors. You have to get them used they don't mine them now and I recommend pike, Norton, anything with a label because they are all pretty discolored from whale oil and who knows what and 50 to 100 years of existence.
You got that right...I inherited several old Washitas including a "Lilly White" and a "Rosy Red"! I use them mostly on my straight razors...and occasionally axes and knives. Following them up with my black or trans black Ark leaves an almost mirror polish...and shaving sharp edge. I've never been a fan of the soft Arks...which are nothing like the old Washitas.
Hello Sir !!!!! .... Got a question for yah , would you ever think of Selling any of your Axe/Axes that you have modified, they look awesome, 👍,and your work is pretty cool on them too
Good video. I'm a stone nerd too. I really like Norton's India stones followed by Arkansas. That goat wants to know what's going on around there. I liked Stanley's double bit axes but I guess they quit. Hard to find USA anymore. True temper made some good ones back in the day.
You should try a vintage Washita. My progression for axes and knives is Carborundum or diamond, India, Washita, black or trans black Ark. Leaves a mirror polish and shaving sharp edge!
It's hard to believe, but I live about 2 km from the Echo factory in Metzingen/D, but unfortunately this great ax is not available in Germany. Thanks and take care.
@@urbanlumberjack I haven't found a Council seller in Germany yet. But I own several Ochsenkopf, Helko and Adler axes and also some forged by my grandfather, so I have more axes than hands.😄 Someday, I will also own a Council. 👍
I was at a local hardware store, and they had five of these hatchet in stock, All of them were hung crooked not a single one of them was aligned right, for 45 dollars no thanks
@@urbanlumberjack do you want to know what’s even worse, I’ve inspected 8 Sthil small forest axe and they were all hung crooked as a politician, I couldn’t believe it, knowing who makes these axes would do such a poor job, I believe it’s the German company oxenkhompf that makes them, not sure on the spelling
Could be, what I appreciate is the standard calls for 1/2 inch and CT exceeds that. Plus you can see the hamon line on the axe to give you confirmation it’s been done correctly
I’ve had good luck with just epoxy. It shapes really well, but I’ve found it’s really critical to let it totally dry out before shaping. If it’s going to be in a visible spot, the black epoxy I think looks a little better than the gray.
I make them out of oak and veg tanned leather. Great project, costs about the same to buy the materials versus a strip and they’re higher quality home made
Yes, I have heard that the spotted gum is a magical species which requires steel forged from only the shortest dwarves in the deepest mines! I work alone, and I’ve moved heavier things than I probably should. If you’re ever in Georgia, I will introduce you to some 12/4 slabs of red oak in 8 foot sections.
@@urbanlumberjack I actually wasn’t having a go at you and the comment was meant to be tongue in cheek. You should appreciate the land scape our trees grow in - poor soil droughts insect attack storms fire etc. selects for trees that are tough and hardy. Spotted gum is good for purpose but hickory is a bit better in my humble opinion.
This is definitely forged! It’s made by council tool, who has been forging axes since the 1880s. They use, as I recall, a 100 ton drop forge that requires a concrete pad underneath something 25 cubic feet. They have some awesome videos on CZcams of the forge working, check them out! I have always found them to be quality axes at a fair price.
Who is the guy everyone is following who uses a council tool boys ax? Why is everyone buying small boys ax's from council tool? Who started this trend. Why do only neighbours or inlaws relatives abuse tools in general?
Lol at least for me, my neighbors and family members tend to be the primary tool borrowers. Some I am more hesitant to lend to that others. I like the boys axe, good size good quality good price.
I picked up a council tools "sport utility axe" at a pallet liquidation store for cheap ($10.50) great smaller axe for anyone especially for an old duff with a little heart failure 65 yr.s of age but still loving using an axe.
That’s an awesome deal!
Greetings from the forests of BC Canada! Fortunately the mass produced axes usually have a significant swell beneath the eye, some more than the one you have here. The only (unintended) use of that swell it can give you a little leeway if you over strike. In other words you can remove some material of the damaged handle and still stay outside the dimensions of the eye of the axe. Since any thickness of wood larger than the eye of the axe does not increase the shafts strength when levering, it can be sanded back. The weakest point in an axe handle is usually where it enters the eye as this is the fulcrum point. This is why collared axes, or axe heads with 'ears' are stronger under leverage.
thanks for sharing! Would love to get to BC one day, thats incredible country.
Genuine tung oil is non toxic but it does take a long time to cure. The tung oil finishes sold at hardware stores and such is actually not tung oil at all. It's linseed oil and plasticizers and synthetic drying agents, and it is toxic. I don't mind that however because there's a reason they make it that way. It dries quick and offers a resilient glossy finish. Some don't like the tacky feel but I think it adds grip and it looks good. It also creates a fairly impermeable layer which keeps out moisture and dirt. And it doesn't need to be reapplied over and over like boiled linseed oil. Danish oil finish is a good one too. It provides a darker look like a stain.
You might enjoy checking out the Real Milk Paint Company and their “Half and Half” tung oil that is blended with citrus oil ( which aids penetration/drying while still maintaining a non volatile chemical content). They sell small sample jars for a nominal price.
They have a Half and Half Dark which is a deeper more dark/rustic hue in addition to their straight half and half (which is a natural clearish color ) - Very fine products if you’re interested in getting away from harsh chemicals while still having great protection, conditioning and appearance for your tool handles.
@shawnmann9491 thanks for the recommendation!
@@urbanlumberjack . My pleasure my friend! I absolutely love your content; Keep up your hard work!
I have friends like that too.
Nice repair on the handle, should hold fine. I do like those stones but I would totally drop them and they would totally break.
Haha yeah those friends are the worst. Need to stop letting that guy use my tools…
I bought 3. Found a brand new old stock red painted one. Accidentally bought a 24" version, and the 28" echo you fetured. All 3 are perfect👍
Great axes!
I absolutely love Arkansas stones on basic steels that aren't too hard. If you can get your hands on a real old school washita stone, they are fantastic with axes, chisels, and even straight razors. You have to get them used they don't mine them now and I recommend pike, Norton, anything with a label because they are all pretty discolored from whale oil and who knows what and 50 to 100 years of existence.
You got that right...I inherited several old Washitas including a "Lilly White" and a "Rosy Red"! I use them mostly on my straight razors...and occasionally axes and knives. Following them up with my black or trans black Ark leaves an almost mirror polish...and shaving sharp edge. I've never been a fan of the soft Arks...which are nothing like the old Washitas.
Nice introduction to the ax and sharpening techniques. Thanks and take care.
Thank you sir! Always appreciate someone with your experience stopping by
Cool vid! I like that anvil on the bench too
Thanks man! Little 70 pounder works great for forging knives and setting rivets
I use Watco Danish Oil....Prefeer DAark Walnut....Great Stuff .........OnWard......
Thx sir great presentation
Hello Sir !!!!! .... Got a question for yah , would you ever think of Selling any of your Axe/Axes that you have modified, they look awesome, 👍,and your work is pretty cool on them too
Good video. I'm a stone nerd too. I really like Norton's India stones followed by Arkansas. That goat wants to know what's going on around there. I liked Stanley's double bit axes but I guess they quit. Hard to find USA anymore. True temper made some good ones back in the day.
I love Arkansas stones. Amazing stuff. The norton pocket stones are real good too I’ve heard
You should try a vintage Washita. My progression for axes and knives is Carborundum or diamond, India, Washita, black or trans black Ark. Leaves a mirror polish and shaving sharp edge!
Thanks for explaining the dots. Picked up a Council Tool Jersey, curious on your thoughts of removing the grind marks from the cheeks/phantom bevels.
Definitely worth it to polish up the bevels, it makes for a beautiful finish. The CT jersey is my favorite axe!
It's hard to believe, but I live about 2 km from the Echo factory in Metzingen/D, but unfortunately this great ax is not available in Germany. Thanks and take care.
Thanks for the comment I love hearing how things are in other countries. It’s made by council, are they available in Germany?
@@urbanlumberjack I haven't found a Council seller in Germany yet. But I own several Ochsenkopf, Helko and Adler axes and also some forged by my grandfather, so I have more axes than hands.😄 Someday, I will also own a Council. 👍
Great info for a beginner in sharpening as myself. What is the stuff in spray can you use with the stones? Thanks
It’s been a while since the video but I believe it’s ballistol. When I can’t get that I just use wd40 though
Cool vid! Thanks.
Appreciate it thanks for watching!
I was at a local hardware store, and they had five of these hatchet in stock, All of them were hung crooked not a single one of them was aligned right, for 45 dollars no thanks
That’s rough. Definitely important to see a tool so you can pick a good one.
@@urbanlumberjack do you want to know what’s even worse, I’ve inspected 8 Sthil small forest axe and they were all hung crooked as a politician, I couldn’t believe it, knowing who makes these axes would do such a poor job, I believe it’s the German company oxenkhompf that makes them, not sure on the spelling
Heat treating over a 1/2" has been normal for many generations.
Could be, what I appreciate is the standard calls for 1/2 inch and CT exceeds that. Plus you can see the hamon line on the axe to give you confirmation it’s been done correctly
where do you buy the round bevel angle tool from?
There’s a bunch of them out there. This one’s a cheapy from Amazon. Search “bevel guage finder.” There’s a ton of them in different price ranges
I was ur 500th subscriber
That’s awesome! I was checking on the count during the day and saw that come through! Thanks for watching
Just about to hopefully hit 600, mind if I mention you were the 500th in a video?
Have you ever tried just using just the epoxy? Curious if you can shape it. I’ve never used epoxy. Thanks.
I’ve had good luck with just epoxy. It shapes really well, but I’ve found it’s really critical to let it totally dry out before shaping. If it’s going to be in a visible spot, the black epoxy I think looks a little better than the gray.
What did you spray on the axe and the stone when sharpening the axe?
Ballistol. Great stuff and no carcinogens!
Looks like body’s axe
What stone and case is the round one?
The stone is a lansky puck, love it. I made the case.
@@urbanlumberjack nice looking case!!
What strop do you use on your axes?
I make them out of oak and veg tanned leather. Great project, costs about the same to buy the materials versus a strip and they’re higher quality home made
You wouldn’t pick up a piece of Australian hardwood that easily. At home the boys axe would just be a step up from a hatchet.
Yes, I have heard that the spotted gum is a magical species which requires steel forged from only the shortest dwarves in the deepest mines!
I work alone, and I’ve moved heavier things than I probably should. If you’re ever in Georgia, I will introduce you to some 12/4 slabs of red oak in 8 foot sections.
@@urbanlumberjack I actually wasn’t having a go at you and the comment was meant to be tongue in cheek. You should appreciate the land scape our trees grow in - poor soil droughts insect attack storms fire etc. selects for trees that are tough and hardy. Spotted gum is good for purpose but hickory is a bit better in my humble opinion.
This is not forged axe. This is casting. Markings on axe are too deep to be stamped. Cheap.
This is definitely forged! It’s made by council tool, who has been forging axes since the 1880s. They use, as I recall, a 100 ton drop forge that requires a concrete pad underneath something 25 cubic feet.
They have some awesome videos on CZcams of the forge working, check them out! I have always found them to be quality axes at a fair price.
Who is the guy everyone is following who uses a council tool boys ax? Why is everyone buying small boys ax's from council tool? Who started this trend. Why do only neighbours or inlaws relatives abuse tools in general?
Lol at least for me, my neighbors and family members tend to be the primary tool borrowers. Some I am more hesitant to lend to that others.
I like the boys axe, good size good quality good price.
Skillcult started this trend
you know nothing jon snow
Lol!