8. Shaping the Post Tenons and Boring Holes for Tenons in the Seat
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- čas přidán 12. 02. 2019
- Curtis demonstrates how to use a drawknife to shape the tenons on the posts and shows how to use simple patterns to guide the boring and reaming of post holes in the seat.
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I am learning a lot from these videos.
I can't wait next series.Thank you, Mr. Buchanan!
Thank you ms.
that post rotation tip to align with the crest rail intersection sounds like hard won knowledge!
Good series 👍👍👍👍
Is he thickness of that test block important? I can’t quite figure out how that’s working? Is the hole in that block tapered the complete depth? Why not use a test piece closer to the actual finished piece? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks so much for the plans and these videos. My plans arrived safely yesterday and I can’t wait to get started!
The test block is the same thickness as the seat, 1 3/4". The test block hole is exactly the finished size needed. I drill a 1/2" hole and give it a full taper with the 6 degree reamer.
Sorry, yes I see that now.
Love these videos Curtis. Question how long do you typically leave pieces in your kiln
if the wood is air dried, then 48 hours should be plenty
I'm looking forward to the next installment of this series. Prepped my seat blank and the parts are about to be dry enough for the next steps.
A question regarding the paint: did you use slate as the color? I assume you didn't do a base coat or applied any kind of stain.
I did use slate. One coat rubbed down and one coat of oil. I didn't pre-stain the one in the photo but I did stain the last one prior to paint. I picked up some walnut hulls in the yard and boiled them and used that as stain.
@@curtisbuchanan7691 Thanks a lot for the reply. I assume I will get the same staining effect with van Dyck crystals which are basically the same just preprocessed to only need to be solved in water.
What auger bits do you recommend to bore the holes?
I use old Irwin or Jennings that are still in good shape.