HOW A PROFESSIONAL REALLY FIXES YOUR SURFBOARD - FCSII REPLACEMENT
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- čas přidán 22. 10. 2022
- In this video we look at two, typically busted FCS 2 boxes. We use both expanding PU and a foam off cut to show how both methods work. --------------------------------------------
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--------------------------------------------- - Jak na to + styl
Thank you to all the great surfboard repairers out there. We owe you heaps of gratitude for what you do for us. And a shout out to shotgun surfboards for helping me. good video thanks
I miss Hawaii now, great job on the repairs!
Love this channel and the PU pouring foam is perfect for my upcoming repair 👍👍👍 Thanks for the tips too 🙏🤘🏄🏼♂🏄🏼♂🏄🏼♂
Thanks man! Glad to be of help!
Thanks, that really helps 🤙🏽. It's nice to see the good way to do in your videos.
Glad it’s all of help!
awesome vid man, really well explained. thanks from the other side of the world
My pleasure, thanks for checking it out!
thanks for your time, doing some sailboard repairs , planning and moving forward cautiously seems to be the lesson here.
Game plan is important but also remember, things always look worse before they get better and everything fibreglass is reversible if need 🤙
Thanks that was really clear. I'll give it a go on an old board.
My pleasure! Let me know how you get on!
Awesome bro. Loved it
Shot brother!
Good work
I should share this video to my local shaper.
Amazing job bra
Strangely, some of worst or dodgiest repairs I've seen come from shapers who I know to be really good shapers. I guess it's like getting a panel beater to paint your car, the two don't necessarily translate
@@smallkinedings I am pretty good breaking fin boxes, mostly duck diving in shallow water, slabs reefs , last time my local shaper took 2 months to fix mine and made a complete mess and charge me 40 EUR 🤮.
Unfortunately to fix fins box you need the proper tools and space otherwise I would do it.
Amazing video mate thanks again , have a nice barrel
Great explanation Daniel! I think you can do that job if I break a box
Cheers! Happy to!
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hey mate, thanks for the vid, you make it seem super easy! Just wondering, the yellow protractor tool looking thing you used to check the cant angle, where did you get that from?
My pleasure man! Best tool ever. I bought mine from surf studio in Victoria, Australia. Was the only place I've seen them in the southern hemisphere
Micro oscillator tool is gonna be my router for this repair. Best new tool of the 21st century. Also, I don't have a bad ass router, or sander.
Like a dremmel? You'll be there a while 😂 It'll work though! Sounds like a good excuse to buy a bad ass router and sander to me though
@@smallkinedings a Dremel spins the bit, a Fein Tool saws the bit.
Thanks for the video! If you don't mind my asking, are you able to make ends meet with just board repairs? If so, is it fairly chill, or a 60-hour week kind of situation?
This is definitely a topic I will make a video on soon. Short answer is that this has been my full time gig for the last 5ish years and I have essentially bought myself a lifestyle. My small town location makes things a little different for me but I generally work less than 40 hours a week (but 7 days a week) but I charge tradesman rates which I might struggle to do in a city but the trade off is that I'd get more work in a more populated area.
Nice one, Im literally on my final sand stage now and if I knew you had your own youtube channel earlier I would've watched your video about finbox repairs, but looks like I did everything pretty much right, skipped the pre laminating part tho hah
Ed! Howzit brother?! No doubt you got it sussed! Cya in the water one of these days
@@smallkinedings didn't get as mint as yours obviously but should be fine haha. but yeah, been all good, haven't been east for ages, just west these days but should come out east sometime soon. Churrr brotha.
thanks you. I never understand why stop using to good old fcs 1 . just drill a simple hole - simple
Nice! Did you glass over the 2 part foam without sealing first? Are you not getting bubbles?
If the damage is small i usually don't seal the foam off for a box before glassing as most of it will be routed away anyway, but generally I play that onna case by case basis.
I may have missed it watching at work, any use sanding the sides of the new box for bonding purpose?
Some people do but not myself. The box walls are sufficiently grooved, indented and porous that I think there is plenty of hold without sanding. But, a skuff with some 120 grit never hurt anyone if it gives you peace of mind
bloody good video! what is the expanding foam and does it work ok with EPS?
Expanding pu. If you can find a local PU foam manufacturer they should be able to sell you something like this. If you struggle, look up taxidermist supplies as they stuff animals with this stuff
@@smallkinedings GOLD! hahahaha! thankyou!
@@dumpy4289 o, yes, works sweet with EPS
question about paintbrushes! What do you use to preserve your brushes? Acetone? I find myself going through paint brushes and want to save some money!
Howzit Dalton! So I personally don't reuse brushes as most of my brush work is dings so don't require a high end brush. I just try and line up 4 to 6 boards and use one brush for all of them each coat so a 50cent chip brush goes a long way. I know some full time laminators though who have high end brushes for their work. The standard seems to be 3 pots of acetone. So after use your brush you rinse heavily in container 1, then finish rinsing in container 2 and then leave it sitting in container 3 until its next use. Obviously container 1 gets gross and jelly first so once that needs changing you fill it with clean acetone and it becomes container 3. What was container 3 becomes number 2 and what was number 2 becomes number one. Keep the rotation going each time container 1 needs changing. One guy I know has been using the same 2 brushes for his work for almost 7 years and he's a full time laminator not too far from me. It's a pretty expensive brush he's using though!
What's the go with those grey fins with the indent in the leading edge?
Is it there so you can tape them down when setting them, or is it a new type of fin?
They are dummy fins. Yup, That indent is for masking and their tab is different so they don't lock into the box the way a fin you'd surf would
Good one mate , i dont really like using expanded PU , seems easier and faster to me to root a small square and insert a new block of foam and start from there . Also sometimes you dont really need to root and insert because if youre really precise grinding the broken box (and if It is not completely destroyed the area around it) , you can pull the old box out and the original root Will be perfect just to install a new box (maybe ya need to clean the resin inside of it with patience but you wouldnt need to insert block again and root ..)
Many ways to skin a cat and I'd say that both methods have their pros and cons for sure. I use both blocks of foam and expanding depending on the job and type of ding. As long as you're replacing foam and not filling big holes with pools of resin, you're on the right track!
You can also melt the plastic around the pin with a soldering iron, less nerve wracking than trying to get it with a router.
Knowing me I'd be dripping molten plastic all over myself 😂
What kind of router bit can you use to square out the fin boxes to make it easier to insert foam? Assuming you can’t use the fcs2 bit freehand.
Hey hey, you could use the fcs bit. I tend to avoid it because those bits are so expensive so the less use the better. For general routing I just use some cheap and cheerful bits from the local hardware store. Smaller is better I find if trying to follow a pencil line, you get a bit more control
Hey mate where do you get your expand foam from ?
Gday Ben,
Try your local Polyurethane manufacturer. If you struggle to find 56kg, track down a local taxidermist and ask for their supplier 🤙
Where do you get the finbox stickers can’t find them anywhere
If you're buying genuine fcs boxes, they should come in the pack with the boxes. If you're buying cheap plastic knock offs, stop it 😂
If I install a finbox with sanding resin, is it that much of a difference than using laminating resin? Will I see a difference?
I just don’t have laminating resin.
I would venture a guess that it's not ideal as the wax layer will definitely effect adhesion. That said, by the time you sink your box, you might end up pushing 90% of the wax out anyway. It will mean you have to sand before lamination though. If you can get laminating resin I'd personally go with that.
wish they made white expanding foam or you can add pigment to it?
Tell me about it! I have been experimenting with tints and acrylics added. The issue is that the iso part is so dark before mixing, the amount of colour needed is enough to change the chemical reactions and because it begins its expansion in about 60 seconds, time limit to add pigments is extreme!
Wouldn't it be stronger to route the box out larger so that your plug has more wall thickness?
Resin in a board is actually a weakness. It is incredibly hard and the slightest movement or flex creates compression and cavitation of the foam.the less of it the better. The other factor to consider would be weight in the tail end of your board. Each box takes roughly 30ml of resin (minus what you squeeze out). Up that to, let's say 60ml per box, we are adding some noticeable weight now.
I learned about the added weight the hard way 💩
Where did you get the pu piece from?
Old surfboards are your friend unless youre shaping boards in which case you'll have plenty of off cuts
i want to do the Foam block method. but i'm a bit skeptick... do you think it's a problem if i will insert a block of PU foam in a Board that is made of EPS?
yoooo thanks so much for your vid's! i lernd so much from them!! chers for the tips and all!
Hey hey, cheers, glad these videos are of use!. Non-issue at all using PU foam in an EPS board. I never use EPS as foam inserts and especially for things like plugs and boxes, the density of your PU is an advantage.
Couldn't you have started with drawing the square shape around the box. and instead of routing, using a Dremel to cut the square, then proceeding to just pull the box out in the square shape? seems like it would have cut the time down without risking pulling existing glass and foam up.
Definitely can, was done that way for the sake of the video just to get the two boards at the same starting point
Here ya go
Here we go!
Watching this because I hate my FCS2 boxes. Four of mine need to be replaced. Just thinking of cutting them out and replacing with futures.
If they all need replacing, then personally I would go futures over FCS any day of the week.
@small kine dings I understand the offset for the FCS2 box alignments with the jig. But if I'm converting to Futures from FCS2, does the alignment with the shaper's dot change? As in when the shaper places the dot, does that placement take in to account the FCS2 alignment shift left/right or is the dot simply the dot and can be used for either FCS2 or Futures?
@@bellpaleale hey hey, I have a "tip of the day" in my shorts that shows that difference. So your shapers mark for futures represents the dead center of the fin slot as opposed to fcs which is showing the inside edge of the fin slot.
Pour foam seems to shrink on me like a month down the line, just a little shrinkage
Interesting, havent heard of that happening before. Maybe change your brand/supplier and do some trials with something different. What density have you been using?
@@smallkinedings I used 2lb foam from TAP Plastics, I only used it for small holes maybe an inch wide. I am in NorCal, and I wonder if the cold weather kind of slowed down or prevented the full chemical reaction
@@crush3095 definitely a minimum temprature requirement with the stuff I use of roughly 15 to 20 degrees (celcius) for a proper reaction. Could be worth heating your room
Set your camera to 25 or 50fps (assuming you're in aus) to stop that light flicker.
O, unreal cheers for the tip! I'm in NZ, why does geography matter?
@@smallkinedings it depends on the frequency of the AC power.
AUS and NZ are on 50hz alternating current, while some places like the USA or on 60hz.
The flurou lights flicker at the same rate as the power frequency, so if you don't have the frame rate aligned with the flicker, you'll get some frames that are dark and some that are light.
@@ryanokeefe12 ahh yes, that makes sense. The weird thing though is that they are all LED lights and they don't flicker in real life (noticeably at least) but do on camera. Will give it a go and see how it looks. Cheers for the tip!
@@smallkinedings LEDs that run off of AC will have the same issue as fluorescent lights.
You can't see them in person, because the flickering is too fast for your eyes to perceive as your eyes are constantly taking in light, unlike a camera which is capturing multiple still frames per second.
There are quite a few videos that explain the problem and solutions.. You can resolve the issue by adjusting the shutter speed, so that the shutter is open for a longer period of time than it takes for the light to flicker on and off - but you've got to adjust the ISO at the same time to ensure your video isn't too bright or too dark.
That's why the easiest solution is to simply adjust the frame rate so that it aligns with the power frequency.
czcams.com/video/0kAuDuV9K9U/video.html
FCS2 JIG would make the route much easier and cleaner. If you do a bunch of these its better to have a dedicated router bit just for these repairs because it tends to muck up to router bit.
Which route are you talking about? I have fcs jigs which are used in this video as well as designated router bits for all steps in this video
@smallkinedings parts of the video shows you freehand the FCS route
@@jasontroy3911 you can't use the fcs jig and bit for that because you can't route the boxes out at full depth straight away. If the bit is not set to full depth in the router then the guide bearing will make no contact with your fcs template and you will destroy the template which will be metal on metal. So, you would have to free hand within the template anyway until you get deep enough for the guide bearing to make contact. May as well just free hand it without the template. That and fcs router bit are about $150 a pop so it would be an expensive way to go about things
@@jasontroy3911 something you can do to get around that though is stack an fcs2 template on top of a futures one pass template. This will elevate your fcs2 template up high enough that although your only cutting millimeters deep into the box, the guide bearing will make contact with the edge of the fcs2 template.
@smallkinedings I have a router bit dedicated to routing out FCS2 boxes. After digging the pin out I slowly route the rest of the box out at full depth. Just did one about an hour ago. Like I said the problem with my method is the router bit is toast for regular fin box installation so I have 2 router bits one for each task.
The problem with FCS2 is that when you hit your fin you generally wreck the box, which is an expensive and time consuming affair. I like the old twin tab fins with FCS Fusion boxes. If you stick the boxes in properly, when you hit a rock 99% of the time you'll lose the fin with no damage to the box. Fins are relatively cheap, and what's more all you have to do is put a new fin in and you're back surfing again. FCS2 has been a real bonus for professional ding repairers; plenty of work.
Couldn't agree more, great product for business, not so hot for the consumer!
Love it mate! Do you think I could use glass bubbles to fill the hole instead of foam block?
@@stefanosobrero677 negative, filling large voids with resin is exactly what we are trying to avoid. Lodging hard, jagged substances within a soft, supple, flexing material causes all kinds of potential issues down the track. This is what separates the the "uncle tonys" from the pros 🤙
@@smallkinedings ok thanks mate, guess I’ll have to use foam then 😁
@@stefanosobrero677 that's the one! It was the whole beginning of this channel, calling out the uncle Tony's on CZcams 😂 check the first video ever posted on the channel
The craftsman needs to convert his fluorescent bulbs to LEDs, recommend 4,000 K. Way better light for cheaper and last long time.
Every light in my workshop is an LED, the question is, why does the gopro make it flicker?!
Frame rate
9 year pro ding repairer here. Spent the first half of your video shaking my head with a puzzled look on my face. You actually rout the whole plastic box out with the metal rod? For the love of God why? Rout a bit deeper and get a large, flat screwdriver in the channel and lever the box out. It takes 30 seconds.
Levering the box out runs the risk of lifting and delaminating the existing glass around the box as well as creating further damage to the foam. Depending of course on the condition of the boards damage when it comes to me, if the thing is totally munted already then yes, pry away but if the board is in good knick around the box as this one was, I would rather take my time and remove it cleanly. The issue I see with many other repairs that come through my workshop is that the jobs have been rushed. Weather this is because the repairer doesn't charge enough to take his time or because he is impatient and eager to get paid I'm not sure but, as I always say, good things take time
@@smallkinedings each to his own. I've done hundreds of these. I think you are making unnecessary work for yourself
@@Woopass90 agreed and as have I
The other issue you can encounter here with routing deeper, especially with FCS 2 is that the bit from the router hits the titanium rod and sends sparks into the air which can become very dangerous.
Having the distance why measuring? Pass it to foam, pass parallelogram to the board and open box.
Tallking time...