HOW A PROFESSIONAL REALLY FIXES YOUR SURFBOARD
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- čas přidán 27. 09. 2022
- A lot of videos on youtube that claim to show professional fixes. Many of them make me vomit in my mouth a little... --------------------------------------------
If you wanna check out memberships there is a ''join'' button on my channel or you can click this ere link - / @smallkinedings
Once you sign up, you'll wanna join this super secret members only facebook page - / 966305518417568
You'll get first look at new videos before they go public and we can go over your own repairs through that page as well.
There are always members only videos being posted up on youtube too which only you members will have access to.
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Every now and then I go back to watching this video again. It is almost therapeutic!
Haha, that's classic! Glad to hear it!
Agree
im gonna watch this when im beat down, tired and abused by life... awesome dude!!!!!!
Haha! Hope it helps!
Awesome information. Thank you for helping me fix my kayaks all the way in Washington state. Cheers
My pleasure man. I'm always available on instagram if you need any help!
Nicely done! And I think I've finally learned why my repairs aren't looking professional. I have a habit of talking shit to my resin while mixing. Can't wait to see how it comes out when I do it your way!
Poly can generally handle a bit of shit talk, epoxy though... epoxies a little bitch!
You are the ding king bro! I am repairing a board at the minute and I am learning a lot. My rail and deck/bottom repairs have come out good but I tried to remake a tail and it’s not perfect but that’s all part of learning I guess. This video was great.
Many thanks for the kind words! If you ever need any pointers, track me down on instagram and happy to have a chat about your projects. Will definitely be putting more ding repair videos up in the coming weeks too so keep your eyes out for them.
@@smallkinedings amazing thanks mate!
Now I understand why my surfboard cost $100 to repair a ding ( near the fin/box ). Great video and editing too, not easy to do both when trying to do a tidy job. Rock on mate.
Grossly underpaid ding repairers. I'm pretty biased though 😂 cheers man!
Class video man i know now why Rogue Wave Surfboard Repair called you out for using hes footage but the sense of humor is just class. I do watch him and i do like he videos and he knows more than me as I have only shaped 3 boards so far and I live in Ireland so no real local shaper at it every day to show me how to do stuff. Buy you sir are on the next level and I am so happy to have found your channel.
Keep the videos coming and thank you so much for making them.
Hey man, really appreciate it and stoked you're enjoying the videos!
Rogue wave has a great channel and he's certainly been a big influence on me starting this channel. Not just out of frustration 😂 but I looked to him for inspiration on how to film, edit and narrate my own videos so I certainly owe him a beer or 2 for that!
Keep plugging away at those boards, in my (limited) shaping experience, it's all about just working out the stages, the order of those stages and then trying to improve each one with each new board once you have that system down.
I can highly recommend the facebook group ''Backyard Surfboard Shapers''. Aside from my business page, it's the only reason I still have facebook and there is a wealth of knowledge and inspiration within!
Hey mate. Excellent work. Thank you for sharing. What is the expandable foam called; can it be used both for poly and epoxy? Is it available in the US or is it New Zealand only?
Heya man! So that is just how poly foam is made so if you can find a foam manufacturer near you, they will have these two parts. Then you just have to decide on density options. Heaps of coverage on the topic on my channel but the short answer is, it's safe with both eps and PU boards.
Best ding repair channel I've come across, nice one for putting these videos together! Much appreciated. Wish I had seen this sooner as I"m halfway through my 1st repair which I've filled with resin/q cell. Seems to be standard DIY advise, but will use the 2 part foam in the future. I've got a daft question though.... If the filler is sanded flush with the original glass and then cloth is laminated over it + a final hot coat. doesn't this create a buildup of material that then sits higher than the original glass?
Glad you’re getting something out of it. Thanks! Certainly the main reason I started this channel, I was always cringing so hard watching all that resin being poured 😂
You are dead right about the repair sitting high atop a flat surface. It’s just like fixing plasterboard walls inside a home. The skill isn’t really the repair, the skill is spreading out and finishing the repair to trick the eye and hands into thinking the repair is flat. The greater the area you work in the easier it is to blend the repair in. The smaller the repair area, the more obvious the high spots will be
Gotcha, makes sense now. I was wondering whether it was worth trying to sand the filler down a bit below the glass to compensate for the lamination, but after fkn around with lots of resin and q cell apps + sanding (I'm basically rebuilding one corner of a squash tail bottom/rail/deck), not gonna stress anymore than needed now! No, there's no professional to take it to here, I'm out in the fkn sticks! Big thanks for the reply, very good of you 🤙. @@smallkinedings
Rad video, love it bro😊
Appreciate it very much 🙏
Thanks good vid. Can you use epoxy resin for this type of repair (after foam work).
Howzit! I could certainly do the repair on this with epoxy but the painting would need to go on top of the glass, not beneath it
❤❤ love the vídeo.. i work with boards for 28 years... honesty and knowledge 100%
I call some pluster guys the wannabes😂fixers😅
Respect bro❤
great job!! what's foam name you used for filling the ding?
it seems to have the perfect density of a PU
Thos ones a 36kg two part PU foam. I have a specific video related to this foam that answers most FAQs about the stuff 🤙
Ive allways loved the smell of paint and rosen too.
My first board /i filled a large area with rosen.
No color?
Just brownish.
I was a flunky at American Corvette Powder Springs Ga.
That was? 1978?
Still got that board.
Haha, I liked the smell to back when I could smell it 😂 Unreal, hang onto that board!
Nice Job! I have one question though:
Please tell me where I‘m wrong!
If you sand the epoxy-microballon-mixture flush with the board, then apply fiberglass you should have a small bump where the new patch is right?
If you again sand it flush afterwards, don’t you take away all the new fiberglass as it was „on“ the boards shape?
Intuitively I would sand the epoxy filler down so that it is a bit „lower“ than the board. This way I won’t sand all the fiberglass of just to get it flush with the rest again.
Hey hey,
Did reply to your other comment but thought I'd just mention here too for anybody else reading your question that yes, from a theoretical standpoint your assment is correct.
I do have a video called "sanding FAQs" or something like that and it goes pretty in depth into this subject. What you have brought up though is the true art behind surfboard repairs. Tricking the eye into a non flat surface looking flat
Very entertaining and informative at the same time. Does eps pour foam exist and make sense to use?
Just saw a similar question further down in the hundreds of comments. I‘ll check out the other videos😀
Cheers, glad you enjoyed! Never been able to access EPS base ingredients but this stuff works just fine on EPS boards and is substantially stronger than EPS so I likely wouldn’t use it even if it was offered to me 🤙
Another great job
Hey dude sweet video. Just wondered where you got that 2 pot pour foam from? Keen to give it a jam form yself 🤙
Hey bradda,
So your local poly urethane suppliers should be able to provide something like this. If you struggle to find 56kg foam which is what's used here, contact your nearest taxidermist and ask for their supplier as it seems most of them use 56kg density foam
@@smallkinedings champion
Nice vídeo....one thing i tell all my clients . I keep not getting why people still fix boards by adding extra past and fillers😢
I use pu foam from broken boards and glue it with my special secret bond glue and reshape everything back to exact shape and re laminate again
No extra Wright ❤😊
Well doonnnneeee
Gonna make shirts... "fuck q-cell" 😂
Awesome I like this expandable foam. That will solve all my struggles trying to fit cutted pieces of PU on big cracks
It's a game changer for sure. Don't give up completely on fitting off cuts though, both certainly have their pros and cons. My fcs2 replacement video puts both methods side by side
@@smallkinedings I will watch it 🤙🏽
Wow! Well done! You are so good at what you do! How much would you charge for a repair like that? Is this a fun business to get into?
Many thanks. I'm guessing this repair was round the $150NZD mark. It's a fun line of work but you're essentially buying yourself a lifestyle, not a retirement package (depending where you set up)
The best guy to fix ding ever
Nice video thanks for the time you spend on it!
I like the pour in foam instead of q cell
I think the industry probably uses q cell as a filler because its more efficient, not because its a better practice. I think the differences in weight/ sturdiness (between q cell and new foam) are pretty marginal when considering its probably for a relatively small ding.
when you think of repair shops having as many orders as they do saving an hour or two on the whole process is just business.
I cant really fault the classic repair shop for that. Margins are pretty small as it is! Nobody is getting rich off of a small shop. Now foreign pop outs and foamies on the other hand….
You're right, it's definitely used with efficiency and bottom dollar in mind which is reasonable. Efficiency wise though, pour foam is almost an identical process to qcell. Mix 2 parts together, fill ding, sand smooth, fill any airbubbles that occur. On a ding like this weight is definitely not an issue and rarely is, short of creases and snaps. My issues with qcell cavity filling is 1. Heat, melting the foam of the board you're meant to be fixing, having no idea its happened then sealing it up with glass. 2. Burying something as hard as a ball of resin into foam I think is a bad idea (ESPECIALLY with fin boxes) as any flex or movement in that area causes the resin to push against and compress the surrounding foam, eventually resulting in repair failure and a bigger ding to fill again in the future. The margins are not big in this at all, for me it come down to OCD and a fear of the customer one day bringing a failed repair back. I don't like to let people down so I'll do everything I can to make that repair as good as possible. I don't see the point in doing it otherwise.
I think thats a more long term mindset and very respectable
Thanks again for the effort on the videos and taking time to respond! Favorite channel
Greetings from california
Love your videos and NO BS style...OZZY OZZY OZZY OI OI OI!! Cheers mate from and OZZY in Okinawa 🏄🏄🏄
Cheers man, appreciate that and arigato (?!) Keep shredding 🎸!
@@smallkinedings My pleasure and I will no doubt!!
Amen brother! been doing your way for 55 years.
Paving the way for people like me 🙌
Wow you put more quality work into repairing that modern highline that they put into manufacturing it!
Says a lot about the state of the surfboard industry doesn't it, haha! The way I see it, even the biggest hunk of you know what (not that moderns are) can be loved dearly by their owner as their favorite board. I try and give the boards repairs that the customers would deem worthy of the board, not what I personally deem worthy. Of course that means I need to charge accordingly but I don't want to a break a 14 year old girls heart by making her board look ugly.
Can you only use 56kg/m foam for PU surfboards? Or can you play around with other foam densities?
I have a creased EPS board I'd rather not make heavier by smothering with resin. Would these work on an epoxy board?
Thanks for all your hard work and sick vids, churr
You can definitely play around with densities and most certainly can use these foams with EPS. I have another video on my channel specific to these foams and questions I was getting regularly on them 🤙
Thank you !@@smallkinedings
@@mrm955 my pleasure!
the color beneath doesn’t effect the lamination resin bond?
If you laid it up to thick it would definitely effect adhesion. You want the paint as thin as possible while still getting sufficient coverage
I like to cut foam to fit into the ding from an old board, glue it in with q-cell, and a little colored q-cell filler on the top. Very easy, works well
Certainly nothing wrong with cutting blocks of foam to fit. The benefit with the pour foam is that depth or awkwardness of shape doesn't matter, the downside though is its colour. Both methods have their uses though, as long as your using foam and not just filling dings with qcell, you're doing it right! 🤙
Right on, I’ve never laughed so fucking hard and learn so much in one video. Love it mate
Haha, glad you enjoyed!!
This video is fantastic
Cheers! It does seem very popular! The quality bugs the shit out of me now I’ve got some new equipment and have worked some stuff out so I might remake it one day 😂
Great job 😎
Many thanks!
So good thank you good content
Glad you enjoyed! This video actually kills me as the content seems to be enjoyed but it was my first video and the quality of the old camera really bugs me! Might remake it one day with the new camera!
Where do i get this foam or mix for it?
Gday Jessie! I have a video on my channel all about this foam, it’ll answer all your questions and deepest desires!
Another question based on latest ding, fin chop happened out in the water. Assuming there is water ingress into ding, how do you deal with wet foam before repair? Cheers
There's a few methods involving vacuum bags or dehumidifiers but my go to is either, remove all of the wet foam and replace it or just store it and allow time to drain and dry the board before repair. PU dries MUCH faster than EPS, EPS can take months
Cheers@@smallkinedings
Stupid question perhaps, but I’m new to doing repairs and am trying to learn. What’s the green and brown goop as well as the white stuff and the blue goop?
Not a stupid question at all!
The green and brown stuff is a two part expanding PU foam, used to replace the foam that is missing from the ding.
The blue stuff is poly resin, the blue in it comes from the UV inhibitors that they put in surfboard specific resins (epoxies too) to prevent yellowing from the sun. The white stuff is generally known as Q-cell although Q-cell is a type of micro balloon powder in which there are lots of different kinds.
Micro balloons add density and thickness to resins without adding weight (each grain is literally a hollow balloon as the name suggests). It allows the resin to be mixed into more of a bog or a paste to make it more useable in certain situations. In this case I use it to fill air bubbles in the expanding foam but it can also be used to fill in low areas (a little bit like plastering a wall).
I have a video specific to the foams on my channel and another titled ''poly repairs for beginners'' or something like that which talks a little about micro balloons and it's use.
@@smallkinedings brooo thank you so much! I appreciate your kindness and willingness to share your knowledge. Love your channel!
@@alecferguson1004 my pleasure, thanks for watching!!
Pure artwork
Many thanks!
Good to see someone else uses Belton paint :)
Love the stuff!!
do mind telling me what the green goop and the brown goop is ?
Green goop and brown goop are the two parts to make expanding pu foam. Poloyol and diisocyanate.
Combined these make a 64kg pu foam. A little trickery in this video as I actually used 56kg foam in this repair, not the 64kg
I don't have the exact density mesurement but it seems that Gorilla glue could be a great EPS filler. It always grows more than I can predict... Someone did a comparison with a professional expandable foam and the result was pretty good.🙂
Interesting. I wouldn't ever use it personally as the PU expanding foam is compatible with EPS anyway. The idea is not to have hard and jagged materials resting against a soft and smooth material like foam as the hard material (most commonly resin) will wear that foam away over time. Gorilla glue is pretty brittle, hard and has a lot of air in it expansion. It also sands at a different rate than foam so if you are pouring in a void that is surrounded by exposed foam, sanding down the glue and not messing up the surrounding foam is going to be next to impossible
What's the brown goop actually called? Thank ya!
You sir are clearly guilty of not watching my newest video. If you had, you would know that our brown goop is one expanding PU pour foam. Your penance, hit the subscribe button and go sample the newest uploaded video for all the answers you seek. 🤙
Does the PU expanding foam in a spray can work as well?
It would work in an absolute pinch. Maybe if you were stuck on an island in the Philippines during a surf trip. They are generally very low density though and full of air pockets because of how it leaves the can so generally speaking, not ideal 🤙
@@smallkinedings Thanks for the response!
@@doublestrokeroll my pleasure!
Thats the same Two part foam I used when I restored my Boston whaler its a marine Foam that is hard as a rock lol and Super STRONG !! Expensive stuff but if you don't want to be a KOOK and want the work to last a life time use the good stuff !
That's the one! Do it once, do it right! Tell your mate from Boston to leave the whales alone 😉
if only i could find that density pour foam would be awesome
Look up your local taxidermist and give them a buzz for their foam connection. Most seem to use 56kg
Lol, I enjoy the sanding process 😊
You're mental! 😂
What type of spray paint did you use?
Molotow colours and clears. For bright whites I use Flame which is still a Belton product like Molotow, just under a different umbrella 🤙
@@smallkinedingsrajah thanks 🤙🏽
Does PU Foam when expanding reach high temperature? if yes, can it melt the EPS foam?
Good question!
It dies heat up during the expansion process but it happens so fast that it doesn't get time to negatively effect EPS.
Resin gets much hotter in a pot or confined area than the expanding PU just because it takes so much longer to cure and solidify than the foam does
@@smallkinedings OK :-) I repaired in the past myself my windsurf board using slow resin and microballon.
It worked quite well I have to say, but your repair is of course much nicer ;-)
@@Boris_985 wind surfing boards might react in the water a little differently from a modern day surf board but I feel like the sane principal applies. The flex characteristics of a surfboard moving through water is quite great. The foam within the board is very soft and moves a surprising amount when being surfed. As the foam flexes, moves and twists against a solid and often sharp material like resin, it slowly wears away. This constant rubbing of two materials against one another can lead to the foam being worn away, eventually creating a void between foam and resin from the repair. This can happen quickly or slowly depending on many factors (location of repair, depth of repair, thickness and strength of the board) but eventually there is a chance that the repair will separate from the foam and leave you with a floating ball of resin rattling around within your board, eventually delaminating from the fibreglass above it. I most often see this with fin box repairs.
Temprature of curing resin melting foam can also be a factor but, seems to depend on many factors also. Quality of foam, type of resin, fast or slow hardener, ambient temparture when the resin is poured etc. Not being able to see weather or not the resin has created further issue within the board, it can be a gamble when repairing customers boards to have faith that the original foam surrounding the repair area has not been compromised by filling a large void with resin.
Hope that makes sense 🤙
@smallkinedings I never thought about that, that the flex of the board may be an issue using resin and microballon...
Maybe my repair did worked well because it was on the tail, where no flex shall occur on a windsurf board.
In the middle of the board, it could have been different.
Thank a lot for taking time to answer all the comments.
You are doing beautiful work as I saw in your videos.
which polish?
3D ACA510
Sort a suprised the clear wasnt like auto paint with a hardner.
Light with the buffer.
I have a video where I review a repair of another youtube ding fixer. That video goes into depth why 2 pot paints aren't ideal for what we do. Possible for sure, but practically and financially the cons out weigh the pros substantially
well, I see find this vid after my repairs are filled with hunks of resin, which I questioned since it’s not the original fabrication of the board. Anywho, it’s called amateur hour.
Are you going to share the specifics on the foam, materials to gather? For future repairs.
I knew I wanted micro balloons.
My crease repair looks a tad better, it’s cab filler. Idk why I couldn’t just have laminated direct to the board, maybe surface isn’t perfectly smooth? i
is this a poly repair?
Smooth surface is key for lamination to avoid pockets of air beneath the cloth so having that microballoon layer is generally pretty key, even with a new foam inserted.
I do have a video specifically on this foam I use and yea, this repair was good ol' poly
Where do you get the foam?
Ola amigo! Track down PU foam manufacturers or suppliers near you. If you struggle with that, look for taxidermy suppliers. They use the 56kg foams to stuff their animals
@@smallkinedings great thanks!
If you spray a thin coat of clear before the black for the pinstripe you can avoid bleed through, since any bleed through will be clear.
Thats a great tip, I've got some pinstripes coming up this week so I'll give that a bash!
Hi, I would appreciate it if you wrote the names of the materials you used
Gday buddy.
So materials used were:
. 2 part expanding PU foam at 56KG
. Poly resin with MEKP catalyst and wax additive added for the hot coat stage
. Paints are 'Molotov ' ( I should say that if this board were epoxy, you should NOT paint beneath epoxy glass and resin but do the painting as a last step).
. 3m car polish
I think that's about it? Let me know if there anything specific you'd like to know about. 🤙🤙
@@smallkinedings Im repairing a EPS hypto krypto. I filled the ding, sanded, and used paint pens to paint on the fill and was going to glass over that. You're recommending to use paint pens after the glass and then clear coat?
@@dmac5678 you are probably fine to use paint pens under the epoxy. I'm guessing your paint pens are poscas or something similar? Water-based paints are generally fine under epoxy. It can get a little tricky once you start spraying or rattle canning but you shouldn't have too many issues with the pens.
@@smallkinedings Sounds good thanks for the quick reply! Just recently started getting into repairs and this will be the first real color match I repair. Guessing acrylic spray/clear coat, posca paint pens, acrylic paint, all good options for coloring methods?
@@dmac5678 all of those products will come in use for sure.posca type products can be hard to get a non streaky finish I find, but putting them under resin or cloth helps with that. Clear coats good for finishing paint Jobs above the surface thought it can be a little annoying as paint polishes up much shinier than fibreglass (especially epoxy) ever will which can make your repair stand out like dogs balls on an older board. Acrylics are good for under poly lams, just don't lay it on So thick that it fills your sanding scratches and the resin has nothing to grab
That’s it!
What grit?
400?
All prep work is done with 120, after final resin is poured sanding starts at 240 then 320 dry and for a job like this, then probably 400 and 600 wet before polish 🤙
Small kine you gotta put me on blast like this?! After all I’ve taught you?
Haha, you're not on blast brother and love to you and your channel. It's a lot of work and I enjoy and appreciate your videos.
That is so good! Lol
Glad you enjoyed!!
Top
Fk’n shakas from South Africa.🇿🇦🤙🏻😅 I have a question. Is Aerosil powder (fumed silica) the same as Qcell? Thanks for the videos. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Chur to you!
So it gets a little complicated in the surf world as ding repairers generally refer to ANY powder they add to resin as “qcell”.
Fumed silica though is most commonly known as “cabosil” or “aerosil” depending on brand. Cabosil mixes clear and while you can make resin quite thick (like bog) with it, it’s only really suitable for very shallow cracks and splits. It doesn’t flex as much as qcell and it’s prone to cracking if applied at depth.
Qcell doesn’t mix as thick as cabosil will, it mixes white and is more suitable at filling deep holes as it’s less likely to crack. As stated in this video though, I don’t recommend it for really deep holes in surfboards as it is still very hard and inflexible compared to EPS or PU foam. It will stay light though, not making your resin weigh a tonne as you thicken it.
If you were working on say, a boat. Cabosil is good for shallow wounds while qcell is good for deep ones. It the case of surfboards though, I would only ever use either of these products for shallow cracks, holes or voids and use foam (offcuts or expanding) for any deep voids.
Hope that all makes sense!! 🤙 🤙
@@smallkinedings aaaaaahhhh! Ok,that makes perfect sense. Appreciate the reply and keep pumping out those sick videos. 👊😎
Is q cell not good?
Nothing wrong with qcell if it's used properly. Filling giant voids with the stuff is not reccomended though, especially when it's going to be surrounded with an incredibly soft material like foam.
Somehow the youtube ding repairers have convinced everyone that any hole, no matter how deep or big can be filled with this stuff.
@smallkinedings well doesn't every repair add weight anyways, plus I usually get rid of board after a big damage repair anyways. That was my side hustle back in the day ,go down the stretch of beaches collect all broken boards and repair them and sell um ,made more if was a known pro surfers used board. One board made enough to fix more and eventually get a brand new custom made board later.
@@delvinbonilla7618 that's a good hustle, know a few people who do that.
The repair in this video for example, added no weight to this board. Most people could reduce weight on their board by simply removing the last 4 years wax from the deck of the board.
Misuse of qcell isn't only about weight though. It's about packing very hard and sharp material against a very soft material that flexes. As the board moves, flexes and twists that hard ball of qcell is rubbing against the surrounding foam wearing it away.
Key step here... "say nice things to it as you mix it"
Critical!
u kno Joe used cab & Jo Jo did too. I figured do what pros do. They are regarded craftsman.
There's a lot of great craftsman out there doing absolute dog shit repairs 😂 some of the worst repairs I get in to re fix come from some really talented shapers who I would love to learn from. It's a strange craft, ding repairs. Related to shaping, laminating and sanding but also so far away from it all
@@smallkinedingswell, when this island classics board came to me(for sale in my hood). I grabbed it, knowing nothing of repairs or it’s fabrication. I told the guy who’s name is on the board, I wanted to fix it EXACTLY like he would. He wasn’t v interested in elaborating. He told me lam resin & add surfacing agent to lam to sand patch. I was happy with those basics & to figure it out.
He did also say to repair the crease if I intended to ride it.
found joe’s vid, sounded good. I did see one other vid, their filler is cab & microballoons( u mention in this vid proper use of microballoons)
am going by your beginner vid & both roper vids.
your channel is looking more like Sheldon Brown, do u bike? Sheldon made bike repair possible for everyone. Incredible way of relaying info.
Thurston Moore vomited in his mouth once
Hahaha, Soo good
ah now i see ..hunk a spunk is young you
😂 😂 and present me!
...mmm ? might it be a little easier to tape off around the area close to the ding - before you fill it with foam to make it a little easier to clean up and sand smooth once it dries !
Waste of tape. The entire area needs sanding before resin application anyway and foam is no match for 120grit sandpaper.
@@smallkinedings if a few inches of tape is going to bankrupt your business ... you need to charge more money ! Sandpaper isn't cheap .
@@diverdave4056 @diverdave4056 if I do that with ten boards a day, that's about a foot of extra tape per day. Per week that's 7ft of wasted tape, per year that would equate to 364ft of tape wasted on an un needed step to keep and area of a board clean before I have to sand it, pointless. That's 110 meters of tape per year that I may as well just rip off the roll and throw in the bin because I would gain absolutely nothing from using it. You don't make money by throwing it away, especially in business.
In either scenario I have to use the sand paper so I wouldnt be saving sand paper, the area requires sanding.
you should have fixed the baywatch board
No matter how rich that customer was/is... there is no way he could afford for me to take that double liability on. The end price would likely bankrupt him too 😂 I'd rather go surfing!
Nice job. People use resin for large holes? Youre right, kooks. The fiam hold to the foam better anyway
100%
Bruh I think you missed your calling. You should be doing voice-over work for foreign porn. Just you doing second by second explanation of what's going on in the scene. It would be hilarious.
😂 😂 😂 wait til you see my "Hollywood sound effects" videos...
Still full of pin holes.
No pin holes to be found here sir.
Good video, one question,,, when you paint the rail, Is necessary sand the surfboard for the paint grab?? After that, is necessary any varnish? Thanks