100% Waterproof Shower Surround ~ Extension #23
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2021
- Roger and James are making sure the shower is completely waterproof.
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One of the greatest days of your life is the day the builders arrive to start your extension. THE greatest day is the day they clear off!
Roger, the simple ideas are often the best! Photograph on you phone of the pipework with a tape measure...genius idea, Sir! Great tip👍👍👍
Nice job, but I personally always fit boards then the tray and seal the tray to the board first and use dot and dab instead, always tape all round the copper pipework as cement based products corrode copper
Superb job by 2 professionals, if a jobs worth doing it’s worth doing right 👍
Great tip about the pipes. Thanks.
I’ve done that exact thing with the tape measure to track pipes on the last few jobs I’ve done around the house. Thought I’d invented it and felt very pleased with myself…
Excellently explained
Top job as usual
Good one this Roger. 👍
great vid and info guys
Hi Roger, great channel, big help! Can I confirm that you have used Classi Seal, and sealed that to the backer boards using Aquaseal tanking?
Have you done that before Roger 😂
Nice work as always
Hi Mr SB, I've just been looking at all you shower video's and have found them all educational thank you. I need to make a wet room shower ( in a concrete floor ) for wheelchair use, what I can't get my head round is how to get the used water away. Have you made any video's on this subject please. Many thanks David.
Brilliant video as alway. In you opinion, what’s the best tray money can buy? Low profile. Thanks
Great video, guys. I’ve never seen classi-seals that width before. The ones I get from my local supplier are narrower than that and seem to be made of thicker rubber.
The new ones are thinner
Thanks for that, I’ll look out for them.
@@martinwright7093classi plus I think it’s called
The boys are back in town
Where's the "Where's James?" ?
Great attention to details as in your every other video. I'd appreciate if you could explain during filming what the product is or does. I understand it may be considered advertising so just the function of products being used would do nicely 👍👏
Great video - one question does the seal for the corner upstand need to be at a right angle to the corner or sort of cover the corner and then push it down into the corner.
That’s definitely a belt and braces job. 👏🏻
I missed a lot of this one I was distracted by James’s dapper new look 👌🏼🤣🧱👍🏼
Proper job that 👌🏽. I do hope he remembered to put the waste pipe in before hand though 😬
Done and tested
Wonder could you explain a little more regarding sealing up holes that are required in the backer board for pipe and shower controls. I.e. how to ensure water doesn't get in alongside the pipe and run down inside the wall.
Would you recommend the sealing strip that goes up behind the tile on the around the tray
Hi Roger, would this sealing method be considered better than the elements board and scrim method ? I did a bathroom with that stuff last year and seems good so far, but if this has any benifits, would like to give it a go.
Great to see Roger back at work. Oh and first 😂🤔
I have been working more than we see but we have only just got another cameraman.
@@SkillBuilder I’m sure you have Roger but a man of your skill could do ‘selfie’ videos surely? Loving this series and all who have appeared in it. Thanks 😀
With the new cameraman on board you will be seeing how much Roger gets stuck in with the work. He’s a tradesman through and through and just can’t help himself. I might start paying him soon.
@@jimichip Don't pay him for christ sake, he'll turn up there every day, keep wanting to know where you are every five minutes. 😉🤣
Hi Roger, just wanted to ask if the Abacus tile backer boards are suitable for porcelain tiles. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Id imagine so as some of the vids the tiles look porcelain, however, confirmation would be good. Did you ever find out?
2:17 hahaha! Good one, had me 😅 laughing.
Made me actually laugh out loud haha
Do you have a link for those boards ? Going to be doing bathroom soon and keen to use those.
Nice job classi seal is so good, how come no protection on the copper pipework from corrosion.
There should be no cement on the pipes but you make a good point
I'd have James working in my house and do my dry wall 👌😂
Proper job as always lads, there was some “professional “ asshat on TikTok trying to justify why he still uses normal plasterboard for shower and bath areas 😳
I see Roger has a new German assistant, Herr Cutts 🤣
Write the measurements of the centre lines on the wall for each of the pipes/wires/studs etc then take the photo, saves the close up of the tape measure photos 👍
Then the customer might notice Roger's trademark cock and balls sketch he does between the hot and cold on every job.
How are those screws going into the block work?
Good job, its a funny old trade as so many methods and often its very hard to know which works best in real life on customers budgets, when people rip out a bathroom they can often say it was installed badly as it comes out relatively easily such as dot and dab tile method, but to be fair once you break one tile and can get leverage it should come off easily but i often think with modern flexible tile adhesives in any method it holds the tile adequately to the wall especially with grout etc, if you tile correctly and grout with clear silicone in corners after it dries i think it should last as long as you want the bathroom, if you use correct bonding on walls behind - its nice to use all the special waterproof breathable membranes and glues etc but i think if water gets through it finds a way as nothing is waterproof more than tray and tile surface - obviously on floor tiles you need backbutter and better coverage on a perfect surface but wall tiles with a levelling system with dot and dab works great and saves money - its a skill and its a compromise - the tiles actually strengthen the wall greatly but as most only interact with the wall when ripping out it gives the illusion of weakness - but when fixing to a fully tiled wall the strength is great - when i rip out old school wall tiles (small ones as that was the only thing available) it takes half the wall with it, so for me its too strong as we always eventually replace bathroom - its interesting and ill keep and open mind as i might be totally wrong once i try something new but i feel like the american paper and glue stuff is a bit of a con, if you soak water or trap water on it it will permiate - if grout and silicone fails or just needs renewing that would solve many issue its just we tend to see them too late - i suspect they will never make a perfect wetroom system as that would effect sales
Unrelated comment.. but I’ve just had a painter round who has done a really crummy job. Do you have any guides or advice on how to approach talking to them so I dont scare them off but have a positive outcome?
Roger, do you lay rhe element board on or behind tray?
My old black and decker cordless was used as a tapper for years and never battered an eye lid
15 years of faithful service. I get a Milwaukee replacement and it has to go in for repair twice in a year
Utter garbagio
James is great,,,I like his fuck it get as many adhesives on there to makes it stay not just pretend that 1 will be perfect everytime 😂😂
Please please please can you come and make my shower rooms?! :) Still doing our sodding build… speeding up now though!
Can you use dot and dab to stick those aqua pannels
Does the shower tray go in first with the backer boards places on top of the tray or the backer boards first with shower tray pushed up against them.
Speed fit on the mixer 🤔, foam with dot and dab. Did you use the foam to secure the tray ?
What’s wrong with speed fit on the valve? 50 year guarantee? More than any copper or compression fitting…
Hi what is that cassi seal the only one I can find online have a very thin blue part?
the name on the one you are holding say cm seal.
What did you do around the tray to waterproof it?
Proper professionals go to the extremes
Hi Roger, is there any reason why this tape was used rather than the abacus sealing tapes? Also if the tray is bedded in after elements board is installed, can q seal be stuck to the board from the tray ?
classic Roger belt and braces, shame most plumbers etc dont go to those lengths for the customer
Once you installed your tile baker boards, do you need to plaster them or you can just put tiles on straight away and could you tell me your reason for it please? Thank you.👍
How do you waterproof the floor of a walk-in shower? Would love to see a video about that. Many thanks!
czcams.com/video/ZNfuo24_CtA/video.html
james must spend most his day in the hair salon lol, the price of fame :-)
What spec spray foam you use behind the boards and how much of a benefit is it ?
Hi Roger can I ask is that tile board insulated it looked as though it was. Great hair cut James proper job. Thanks Roger
Fairly sure it is elements board which is the waterproof tanking system. If you go back through the skill builder video’s Robin C did a video and Roger has done too on this tanking system
Yes Elements board cuts down on condensation
@@SkillBuilder Thankyou Roger
@@dougsaunders8109 Thanks
@@SkillBuilder didn't know you could get thermal construction board this big! Usually only 1200x600
Do those screws go straight into that block work without drilling and what was the foam for?
James loves a bit of foam
I guess the foam was to stop or prevent any moment of the board surface after everything has set. That way the tiles and grout remain stable? IMHO
We are about to have the bathroom redone in the 1930's house. Our current wall tiles are stuck on the brick wall without waterproof boards. The floor tiles are stuck on the plywood (which disintegrated below the bathtub). The builder who came to give a quote said we don't need waterproof board on walls and can stick tiles right on. And the floor tiles can be stuck on a new plywood board. Does it sound right to you?
I've always put shower trays down on plasterboard adhesive I've never had a problem in 20 odd years I'm not saying it's correct but so hard to change my ways when I've never had one problem
When using the tape around the mixer valve did you just put a cut down the centre and and fold the excess around the edges and the back ? That what it looks like at point 5.50 on the video.
Yes that is it. The tape forms a little upstand to deflect water away from the aperture.
Roger, did you drill the screws /washers into the concrete wall?
Maybe look at the kerdi schulter systems, much better as you can buy circular rubber gaskets with membrane attached to go around the pipe outlets. What you did there was good but the most vulnerable area around the controls was nowhere near watertight.
Hi Roger, how does the No More Leaks kit compare with the classi seal used in this video in your opinion?
Classi Seal is easier to apply
Thank you@@SkillBuilder
What board is this called? And is the white walls just plaster board?
Which is best, the Classi seal or the self adhesive Abacus tape for the joint between tray and the wall. The Classi seal looks easier to install.
I’m gonna use both, belt and braces
Why cc any you use Hardie backer instead?
Are the pipes cut into channels? How do they not stick into the back of the drywall?
What's that white foam stuff?
whats used to attach the board on the wall?
Can I fix tile backer boards to a plastered block wall in the shower area, prior to fitting wall boards? How best to fix it?
Hi Rodger. Love your videos. I’m installing a shower and I was wondering what mix of sand to cement you use. Is 4/1 ratio ok and do you use soft sand or sharp sand? Also my floor is moisture resistant loft board. Is loft board ok or should I cut a section out (where shower tray is going) and use 22mm plywood instead? If you can answer thank you
A 5 soft buildng to 1 cement is plenty. Use a bit of plasticiser and don't make it too wet. If you have chipboard I would replace it with plywood. Generally it is 18mm plywood but 22mm is not a bad idea.
Wow 🤩. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such a quick response. You’re a legend.
Correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't a cement based adhesive not be in contact with copper pipe as it affects the pipe?
Cement corrodes copper. I just say I’ve never actually come across it corroding a pipe enough for it to leak. Probably because once the surface oxidises the corrosion stops..
Personally i always wrap copper pipes in walls with duct tape
@@amateurvegan2636 I’ve come across it many times
Tbf oxygen corrodes copper
Great to hear a plumber that gives a sh!t about it leaking when he has left 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hi, as you are putting on your blue tape what is it you are using on the boards with the brush ??
many (not all) tape systems ask that you prepare the boards with a layer of brushed on liquid primer/sealant, this lets the mesh part of the tape stick to the wall and supports the joint.
The blue solution they use with the brush is Aquaseal waterproof paint. Usin it myself in a shower installation just now. Good stuff for wetproofing. 35 quid for 5L.
Whats the brand of seal strip - was it CMVseal?
Classi Seal
Do you leak test the plumbing before boarding it up?
We did, to over 10bar.
100%
What's the brand name of the sealant tape used
Where did you get the full size aqua panel from? I can only find small sheets in b and q and wickes
Rubber Duck Bathrooms Elements Board
@@SkillBuilder thanks for that
What board is that you used for the shower area please Roger??? 👍
It's either Wedi or Marmox. If you use this stuff you have to get special washer's for when you mechanically fix the boards to the wall. The surface of the boards are actually soft so if you don't use the washer's the screws will just disappear into the surface and not do anything.
So here too the tile backer board comes down onto the tray not behind it to the floor. I'm confused ?
How do you waterproofing outside the shower if this was a upper timber floor for tiling?
The shower tray joint...
Good vid that, shame though there wasn't more descriptive chat on this one, this is one of those jobs you want to do once and get it right, we need people like you to get us the nitty gritty.
BTW I assume the shower tray has some protective film on it or it will be scratched to f🤮🤮🤮
Have a look at the other skill builder bathroom upgrade video - great watch.
czcams.com/video/P075k_ZNg6w/video.html
Yep that is a good point. We thought we had done this subject to death with our other bathroom videos.
@@SkillBuilder nah, you guys can't do stuff to death, there's alway some little detail that wasn't mentioned last time, it's like watching a real life Monty Python show. Keep it up chaps 👍👍,
Didn't they say that it was a foam tray ? I think those scratches won't be harmful then ...
👍
Are you using Wedi Tile Backerboard? This board has an E fire rating - High Contribution to Fire.
To be fair, mate, there's not usually a fire in the shower.
Just out of curiosity what’s the point in painting and taping around the shower valve and also the shower head outlets?? They are open parts of the board to allow for second fix. What are you actually achieving?? It’s always gunna be open
If you look carefully you will see that the tape is stretched and forms a small rim around the opening. The tiles will finish just short of this so any leaks that get behind the cover plate will run around that rim and away. Sometimes we put a neoprene gasket over the shower valve. It all helps. 100% leak free is the name of the game
Can I spread acquaseal on finely smothly plastered brickwall and use this classy seal without elements board. Would that work the same? The problem is that the thickness of the boards would take extra room in a supreme small bathroom. I need to instal a standard bath. And what is the smallest depth of elements board
Yes that is a good method, I do it a lot but you don't get the insulation.
@@SkillBuilder you mean thermal insulation against cold coming from outside?
Is it best to board down onto the tray? Or can you board down to the floor and then tile down to the tray?
Never board to the tray, always behind it.
Board to floor gives better control of any tray seal leakage, less chance of damaging wall components and of water running vertically to other parts of the building. Having said that I'm refurbing an older shower with 3 walls and the tray is so jammed in theres not enough room to board to the floor on all 3 sides. I will probably apply some tape and or liquid seal to the wall components as a second layer of protection redirecting any leak water onto the floor as if it was fully boarded to the floor.
What adhesive use to stick bords on brick wall
cement based tile adhesive
So if water gets through the grout and it can't get through the seal at the bottom.. what happens to it??
I'm no pro builder, but recently having installed a new bathroom with walk in shower and built in wall toilet in my own house, I know that this installation would NOT have been approved according to code here in Norway. A wet room (like a bath) is divided into three zones, and the floor MUST contain at least one drain 2cm below the top of the door sill, and with a 1:20 gradient. The zones are:
Zone A: the entire floor + inside/around a shower - must be completely sealed off with minimum 3 layers of seal, or better, with a fitted hot glued 3 mm thick 100% non-degradeable rubber membrane. The shower zone has be to extended 1 meter out from the actual shower, not stopped where the glass wall starts (as it seems to be here). Floor zone extends 10 cm up the wall.
Zone B: around sinks, faucets, toilets, etc - it's only required with 1 layer of seal and extend min 50 cm.
Zone C: the rest of the wet room there is no code except if the walls are if painted the paint must be water proof. Only water proof drywall/cement sheets can be used behind tiles.
This is England not Norway, different codes apply!!!
Dont worry we are sending migrants to replace your current code makers so we can have 3rd world diversity enrich your way of life
Thought the rules in England is radiculous already, seems nowhere comparing to Norway
Hi guys why don't you have clips on the pipework or insulation? Just out of curiosity
The board will hold the pipework in the chase with a bit of foam here and there. The board is insulated so the heat loss is negligible
@@SkillBuilder fair enough . Just with high pressure showers if they have a push control button such as aquala( which yours didn't ) they tend to cause a bit of hammer. As far as insulation I'd see it as protection for the copper from any of the dab, but you guys are tidy so no worries there. Did you get your van sorted btw.?
I wonder what Isaac Ostrom thinks of this. His requirements in California seem so much more elaborate with the fancy large showers there.
Watched plenty of his video's and it seems that Stateside they don't seem to use shower trays like we do in the uk, instead creating those screeded floor's with a step (or whatever it is they are called!) And boy they seem so much hassle and they seem to fail a lot as well.
Did he turn up ?
Lovely job but made a mess of the tray dust sheet or even cardboard would have protected it cement adhesive leaves scratching
That's what i was thinking. And when i go to a job where someone else has put protection on the tray, i always pull it up to see if they were trying to hide something who can then blame the tiler for causing it. Many times i have found rubble, screw's etc under the protection and if i see any damage at all, i always point it out to homeowner. That's the first thing i do when i get to a new job. And then i put the radio on!
it looks good and im sure it is good but they are not telling you what they are using , what are they painting on to stick the sheeting , what is the sheeting etc etc .
Can you just use any flexible tile adhesive to fix these elements boards to block walls, the adhesive recommended by the board manufacturer is 40 pound for 20 kilos.
Yes, I have even use drywall adhesive.
@@SkillBuilder Thank you
what happens when them push fittings start to leak, i thought they werent to be used unless accessible
THOSE pushfits are good and if they leak they can be accessed through the shower cover plate. Mosaic tiles on this one so not a problem if we have to take a couple out with a multi-tool.
@@SkillBuilder i understand, many thanks for the reply
What's the point of the blue sealant and membrane around the shower valve hole?
keep the water out
@SkillBuilder your winding me up! There is a huge hole in the middle 🤣😂🤣😂
Is the waterproof board etc actually necessary? Surely if the plumbing is thoroughly tested it shouldn’t be needed? E.g normal plasterboard could be used.
I have seen so many tile on plasterboard installation fail. Why go through all that grief? Surely it is better to use the right board for the job.
It is not the plumbing that fails it is the grout and silicone joints. We see it over and over and every time I take it out and replace it with tile backer board and the problem is solved.
@@SkillBuilder makes sense thanks for clearing that up
I use hardieback boards then Fiber glass them 100% water sealed
Where was the suspense in this video with ‘where’s James!?’ ;)
Our editor had a few days off.
Where's James?