Tanking a shower area
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Tanking a shower area is always a good idea as water eventually gets behind tiles causing the plasterboard to perish. Here we show hoe to tank a shower area using a tanking kit. For more information about tiling please see our tiling section- www.ultimatehan...
Many thanks for taking the time to reply, people like you are few and far between and make the world a better place.
Really interesting to see how different things are done in the UK and United States. Tiling directly on plaster or dry wall is a big no no, membrane and all. We would either float a mortar wall or use a cement board with a membrane system.
Thanks for the video
I'm in the middle of building an ensuite and couldn't decide whether to tile or use the aqua panels. But after watching this I've decided to go with tiles and use a tanking kit. Great video.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Another excellent how-to, will recommend your site to my customers, easier for them to follow than explaining it all in the shop
Thanks UHM, Yes I've been to a local supplier and they look to be a great product. I think as an extra precaution I will use your method of tanking and then put a bead of sealant down the joins of the cladding just to make sure that no water gets behind the cladding or into the plaster board. Thanks for your help mate.
Great video and very well explained. I will now carry out this method on my ensuite project , i wasnt going to tank the area as my understanding is Ceramic tiling with correct tiles when used on a sound substrate with E-poxy grout and adhesive is impervious to Hydrostatic pressure and totally waterproof. As im in the industry of below ground level waterproofing of basements and a CSSW surveyor i was little care free . Tanking methods are designed to withstand water under pressure (hydrostatic) against earth retaining walls to prevent physical water ingress. Water running down tiles within a shower enclosure should not require Tanking. However i can understand how weaknesses in corners and grout lines could lead to water penetration through to the substrate.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Apart from the squeakiness it was good to see someone calmly demonstrating what to do and not loudly talking rubbish non stop. Good stuff
+tom alexander
That hop up is a real pain for squeaking!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Simply video and very informative no silly music or silly acting
Glad you liked it 👍
Got a price from my tiler €1,100 plus €200 for tanking kit after seeing this I’ll do it myself 😊 thanks for the your informative info
👍
Brill and very easy to understand, thank you fellow northerner.
You are welcome, I'm glad someone can understand my accent LOL
Thanks for the comment
Hilarious stuff!
@ 2.47 mins in, I thought he had put some banging music on the video to help us all watch paint drying. ..... turns out to be the creaking of his aluminium (aluminum for our US colleagues) hop up bench. Great laugh 😂
You rather did imply that, Spunkmeyer. Tile on cement board is a no no without a vapor barrier.
I'm using greenboard in my shower. Doesn't matter though, as it will be covered with Kerdi cloth.
Excellent video. Detailed explanation and visuals. Thank you.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
If you do get air bubbles in the tape, you can easily remove them. Use a hot air gun on the LOWEST setting use just enough heat to make the surface of the tape warm NOT HOT!! you will find the air bubbles will easily "roll out" towards the edge. The heat seems to defeat the adhesive temporarily but it becomes solidly bonded again as it cools.
Hi. I've just watched you video which I found very informative but I'll appreciate answers to a couple of questions. So in tanking the area behind/under the shower which is basically covering the area with plastic to stop water damaging wall and floor. What happens to the water that gets between the shower unit and the tanking. Is the purpose of thanking for leaks or condensation or both. The main reason I'm asking is because I want to fit a shower upstairs on a wooden floor.
Great video. I'm going to have a go at my bathroom this summer so I'll let you know if it leaks!
Best of luck with it 👍
Heya, Will be tackling this next.
Moisture Resistant Boards in 'wet' areas and ceiling that is close to shower and regular board else where + a tanking kit.
...hope that is right for a fully tiled small bathroom.
I`m about to rip out my ensuite and put a new one in, your vids will be helping me achieve this...great channell
+sharpz44
I'm glad the videos help ;-)
Best of luck with the ensuite!
+Ultimate Handyman
If the water penetrates through the wall tile ... what?
if that happens then, then you aint done the job properly and need not tile again, any tanking will not stop it and the whole area will need to be rectified. tiles removed and subestrate repaired whether previously tanked or not and finally retiled and regrouted.
TANKING IS NOT REQUIRED extra expense and work for nothing.
GOOD CALM VIDEO..WELL DONE THAT MAN!
Thanks for the comment 👍
The steps squeaky from the weight no from necessity of lubrication!!!
Nice job mate!!!!!!!!!
Great video(s), thank you.
I have a query about the screw fixings. If joins and other breaks in the plasterboard (outlet pipes) require jointing tape, how come the fixings don't get a circle of tape or cap over them? I get the need to cover joins with tape in case of movement. But the board can't move where it's held in place around the outlet pipes surely? I'm not knocking doing that either. I just thought going to so much trouble, doing such a good job, why not tape over the screw head too?
True.. it is more expensive. I bought a few sheets yesterday @ £10 each. The dust is harmful indeed but then again.. so is the dust from plaster board, especially so moisture resistant board. I guess at the end of the day it is a question of caveat emptor. Knowing the score definitely helps.
I think from what is said in the video that a type of cement board is being used, such as Hardibacker Board or similar rather than plain gypsum plaster board.
one of the best videos I've come across. thanks so much for the advice. going to give it a spin now!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
The British Standards Institute (BSI) latest codes of practice for BS 5385-1 (wall and floor tiling in normal internal conditions), overseeing works in wet areas. Under new revisions, all substrates should be waterproofed before tiling, even in domestic locations.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi thanks for this very useful. I will be putting ina shower tray not a bath. Should I be concerned about water getting through?
If you are tiling the area, it is best to tank it first as water often gets through the grout eventually.
Thanks for the comment 👍
08:00 “The water won’t get in there anyway” famous last words.
😂
@sam020885 Yes you can use a roller to apply it, the tile pros at the construction company I work at are always using a roller and they apply 3 coats
A) once tanking has been applied and dried, do you need to apply tile primer on top of the tanking before tiling?
2) when tanking on top of plaster that is very porous, could you apply tile primer first, let the plaster suck all that in, then apply the tanking primer and membrane?
Just doing our bathroom now and we went with Jackoboards instead- it’s added about £200 to the cost of the fit but if we think it’s worth it
👍
Very thorough and useful video, thanks.
Great vid, thanks for the help
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
He loves his seam roller !
Don't mention the seam roller. I've lost count of how many times I have been unable to find one- I actually own 5 of them!
@@ultimatehandyman 😂😂😂
Great video...If your wall was a brick wall with no plaster board which had been plastered would you recommend doing this.... I'm guessing yes right?
Yes, as long as the plaster is completely dry before you apply the tanking kit (as you don't want to seal in any moisture)
Ultimate Handyman thanks
hey handyman, i love your channel bro + you always make me look like a pro in front of the family. a few questions though,
1) would using marine ply make for a better job rather than moisture resistant plasterboard and would you tank this in the same way?
2) is a primer still required after tanking and before adhesive?
i really want to say thank you for all the info you supply in your vids, its invaluable and really makes a difference to my life. your a great teacher, keep up the brilliant work.
kas
Hi Kas, I'm glad the videos help ;-)
1) No, plywood is not recommended apart from floors due to expansion and contraction. Tile backer board is best, if you use that you do not need to tank.
If you use plasterboard (even moisture resistant plasterboard- which I'd use in a shower area) it needs tanking.
2) No, you can tile directly onto the tanking ;-)
brilliant, thanks for taking the time to reply, enjoy the rest of your evening my friend and thanks again!
kas
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Hi there. Excellent video. Would you recommend a tilebacker board over an MR board with tanking?
I'd go for the MR plasterboard and then tank it. Tile backer board is more difficult to work with and contains silica so you need to be careful when cutting or drilling it and is normally more expensive.
Great video. Thanks
Howard Kent You are welcomeThanks for the comment
Need tank around the bottom of the wall to the floor
A few simple dust exposure control strategies can be implemented to deal with that. The idea is long term durability of the project and structure. Have you had projects completed with non water resistant products that have lasted longer than 30 years? It would seem that the industry standards are based on such concepts and long term case study.
Excellent tutorial thanks. I assume the tanking procedure is an alternative to the cement-based waterproof panels (e.g. aquaboard or hardiboard) attached to a timber stud frame without needing plasterboard. Perhaps you could tank these panels as well? (Belt and braces!).
Thanks, yes that is correct. Normally people do not tank cement based backer boards.
You probably could tank them but from what I have been told it is not necessary.
Thanks for the comment
I have enjoyed your videos, thank you. Just wish I'd watched them before having a bunch of jokers bodge our bathroom!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Does it have to be primed over before tiling after brushing on membrane
I have a bathroom / bedroom wall with an issue, from the bedroom side , on the bottom the wall was damp and skim had become soft to the extent that i could pull it out (bath on the other side by the way) , the plaster was also crumbling and soft and the skirt had dry rot too , iv removed the skim and got rid of all the skim and soft plaster, its a house i have just bought, do u think i have a slow leak under the bath, or just needs waterproofing with this tanking once plasterer plasters before the skim? Please advise steps clearly and what i need, i will truly appreciate all your advice, learnt alot from your video by the way thanku.
Quick bit of info: I called the Aquaseal manufacturers about what surface types needed to be primed before tanking and they gave me a couple of shocks:
1) If you have sealed new plaster with PVA, you cannot then use their primer on top - you have to remove the PVA mechanically (probably by sanding it all off!)
2) You cannot tank over previously painted wall: you have to remove the paint, again probably by sanding.
3) You cannot prime over recent plaster (even if fully dry). Apparently they want you to wait a month or something before priming and tanking.
They are killing me!
+Julian Smith Blimey, it looks like you can only use it on plasterboard then!
+Ultimate Handyman Well, basically plasterboard and also (as they say) fully dried out plaster...
Hi mate.. I can't tell you how much the bathroom episodes have been a God send so thank you mate... one question about the tanking, how long is ok to leave the walls after they have been tanked before tilling? I'm hopefully going to be tanking the walls this weekend and tiling next.
Cheers
I'm glad the videos have helped ;-)
That should not be a problem, the minimum drying time for the tanking kit is a day or so (if I remember rightly). There is no maximum period to leave the tanking before tiling.
Cheers buddy so I wouldn't need to rub the walls down with a sanding pad prior to tiling if left for a week?
Cheers mate
galva900
No, you should be able to just tile on top of it ;-)
good video, I take it if one has plastered walls then joining tape is not needed? Also can one just use the membrane liquid? thanks
Thanks for the very good video....Can you fix the creaking steps!? Maybe some WD40...
Ultimate Handyman. What's the process of tanking walls which have been bonded?
I'm not sure if you can, it would be worth checking the instructions for a few popular brands to see if any are suitable for this.
No, you got me wrong, I have a PLASTERED masonry (brick) wall, so I'm wondering is this procedure necessary in my case since I don't have a plaster board which could get messed up by water penetrating through grout? Tnx.
What about the screws your supposed to tape them too
I don't recall it saying that in the instructions.
Thanks for the comment
Hi, I watch all your videos I've learnt some great stuff, but on this occasion tape should be placed over the screw holes. Has I said love your video will always continue to watch.
Thank you very much for the quick reply, I understand what you'er saying and agree. What do you think to using the plastic wall panel covering instead of tiling in showers as its quicker and waterproof.
great video,very informative, but please get yourself a new ladder asap!! squeaking done my head in.....lol. Cheers
I know, that hop up was brand new and also did my head in LOL
Thanks for the comment
Any good fi
Any good for fish ponds
@@paddydunphy4599 No, definitely not
Hi Ultimate Handyman, excellent video thanks. We have just applied the primer and we’re going to tape/tank next few days. Question, we haven’t yet plastered the ceiling - should we plaster before tanking? I’m worried there will be a problem where the ceiling and wall meet? Please can you advise? Thanks
I don't think that will be a problem, as it's unlikely that water will ever hit the ceiling during showering.
As long as you leave the plaster on the ceiling to dry out fully before painting it, and you use a paint that is suitable for use in a bathroom you should not have any problems ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Nice neat job. One sure thing, that ain't gona leak! In your next video could you show us how to stop squeaky steps? Lol
Hello, I'm thinking on putting tile my bathroom too but my bathtub wall has an acrylic wall do I have to do the same procedure you did here and do I have to remove my tub please need help
Thanks for this video. Very useful. Can I wait a few days after I put the primer, before I move to the following steps? Or do I have to move quickly as soon as the primer has set?
Just check the instructions to be sure. I think you can leave it a couple of days, but best to check the instructions ( I can't remember, as this was done 10 years ago)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I wonder if they do this in the timber frame throw ups that spring up in days.
Hello UHM, long time follower here. Many thanks for all your help over the years.
I am going to be refitting a standalone shower and put in a new tray as well as new fixtures etc. The tray will need to stand proud of the floor by about 10cm much the same as the original as I do not want to start drilling the joists and to make the job as easy as possible.
Should I tank all the way to the floorboards from the ceiling or should I fit the new tray (do the plumbing) and then tank from the ceiling to the new tray prior to tiling?
I'd just tank down to the shower tray, no water should get past it once it has been sealed, providing you fit it correctly.
The next time I install a shower I am going to use a bath sealing strip as they guarantee no water will get past the tray- czcams.com/video/tRweaE32_ks/video.html
Thanks for the comment and best of luck with it ;-)
Thank you very much for your advice and link to that seal.
Excellent, so helpful.
+Rob Rowley Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great vid. What about the the screwheads in the plasterboard. How are they sealed??
They are sealed with the tanking solution that is painted on.
Thanks for the comment
incase? Water always gets behind the tiles in a shower or tub enclosure. Why use sheet rock behind tile? What about wonderboard? There are a couple styles available.
Really good video. Well done.
Good job mate.
Thanks ;-)
*****
Hi Handyman, greatest video and I’ve done exactly as you have demonstrated in this video. However after tiling the adhesive seems to be taking a long time to dry. Is that normal and how long should I wait before grouting or is there a way of telling when the adhesive is fully dry. I’m using shower proof adhesive that I bought from screwfix
It should say on the instructions, however most grout is permeable and so the adhesive should still cure after grouting. I try to leave it a couple of days.
Thanks for the comment
Hi is it ok to apply tanking to a newly plastered shower wall , enjoyed the video
+Peter Williamson
Yes, but you have to ensure the plaster is fully dry.
It's best to check the instructions for the tanking kit that you are going to use as some of them say you have to leave it a long time before you can tank the area.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I'm replacing the plasterboard in my bath/shower area as the old stuff wasn't tanked and was covered in black mould.
Does the new plasterboard need to go all the way to the floor (under the bath level) or just down to the rim of the bath?
If it does need to go all the way to the floor, does the area under the bath need tanked too?
Thanks.
I normally go all the way down, but stop short of the floor by a couple of inches. Yes, I normally tank the whole area before installing the bath.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, thank you. I have a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me:
I didn't think plasterboard was supposed to be used in this situation?
Would waterproof grout onto a cement board like aquapanel, be good enough to stop the water getting through?
Plasterboard can be used providing it is tanked (even better if you use moisture resistant plasterboard, like in this video). If you use Aquapanel you do not need to tank the area.
I'm not sure if waterproof grout makes any difference.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you so much for the reply. Bet you never thought you'd be answering a question from a video that you posted 8 years ago.
Your other video of the bath installation was great, I've never seen the tape that gives the bath a tile upstand, I will certainly be buying some of that. Thanks for the help, your videos are great, thumbs up from me!
@@michaelbirchall2247 You are welcome, Michael. I try to answer all comments, but sometimes there are problems with the CZcams comment system, so I do not always see them. The bath sealing tape is great ;-)
Thanks for the comments
Hi,
"Great videos" great help.
I'm in the process of installing a wetroom soon.
My question is should i use normal platerboards or moisture ressistant plasterboards if i use tanking to seal the plasterboards?
Both walls are new stud walls, should i be concerned the moisture reaching the plasterboards over time.
Thanks.
+M Asghar
If you are tanking the shower area I would recommend using moisture resistant plasterboard, it is not much more expensive than normal plasterboard but is somewhat moisture resistant. It's a lot cheaper than tile backer board, which is cement based.
What’s the minimum time to wait between the first and the second coat, can they both be applied within the same day
It might vary depending on whch kit you use.
It's best to check the instructions for the kit that you are using ;-)
Hi mate, very informative as usual. I'll be tiling my bathroom in a 4 weeks time. Is it OK to put gyproc MR plasterboard up now on a wall opposite the bath and shower, and continue to use the bathroom in the meantime, and do the tanking and tiling later? Or is it better to put the plasterboard up just before tiling begins? Many thanks in advance.
Hi Ultimate Handyman,
Clear and well explained video - thank you.
One question if I may, please. The boss (my wife) and I are creating a new shower room and we're having a 'bit of a domestic' over the need to do what you've advised here! I've built the stud wall and will shortly board it out using Knauf Aquapanel - as opposed to regular plasterboard. My wife thinks that to tank on top of this is overkill and all that's necessary is to fill the joints with a quality flexible waterproof sanitary sealant, after which we're good to tile. Obviously, doing what you advise is a 'belt 'n braces' approach - but is my wife's approach not perfectly adequate in your view? Her main objection to tanking is the additional expense (we're on a bit of a budget) - given that we've already forked out a small fortune for the Aquapanels.
You don't need to tank Aquapanels, as far as I am aware. You only need to tank plasterboard.
Please be careful when cutting/drilling the aquapanel as it contains silica sand.
Hi @@ultimatehandyman
Wow - thanks for such a quick reply - wasn't expecting that. Oh, and my wife's a happy bunny too! Cheers. ;-)
You are welcome ;-)
For concrete tiling boards, before tanking, do you need to tape and apply a thin layer of mortar to joins? You have gone straight to tanking? Please advise.
If you mean cement based tile backer board- you do not need to tank those, you only need to tank plasterboard.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this quality video.
Hi UHM,
Great video! I'm thinking of using your method, but instead of using tiles, I would use plastic cladding panels to form a waterproof surround for a corner shower cubical. Have you any thoughts or advice on using cladding panels on a tanked dry wall surface. Many thanks, always very glad of your advice mate.
Is this procedure necessary in showers without plasterboard structure, I have a classical plastered brick wall on which I plan to tile on directly?
Very well explained and demonstrated. You were using moisture board. Would you do the same with Aquapanel cement based backing board... I guess yes as there are still joints. I'm just wondering if I'm going to apply the same tanking, why bother using Aquapanel if you can use Moisture panel? Thoughts?
I think that you only need to tank Aquapanel if it is being used in a really wet area, such as a shower in a public building or a wet room.
Thanks for the comment
I have to take of tiles on OSB board on plasterboard and so have to make good with 25mm of something, im not keen on the idea of this tanking just because you have to come back twice, bit of a faf. Normal plasterboard behind cement board be alright do you think ? I think the size of the tile is important. Big tiles = less grout = will last longer without maintenance
I've recently applied tanking to some moisture plasterboard in my bathroom, which are now ready to tiled with some large size tiles.
Only thing is I forgot to prime the plasterboard with pva before tanking. Do you think i should reboard, because potentially this could cause my tiles to fall off in the future?
The tanking paint seems pretty well stuck to the board and isn't peeling off easily.
Also could you advise if I should prime over the tanking with pva before tiling?
What did the instructions in the tanking kit say?
PVA should not be used as a tiling primer, unless specified by the tile adhesive manufacturers- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/pva-why-you-shouldn-t-use-it-as-a-tiling-primer-t168.html
Normally, you just apply the tanking solution (two coats), then tile straight on top of it.
Thanks for the comment
Great video! - I will have to re-board a stud wall in my bathroom so there would be x2 kinds of plasterboard, one for the shower area and then regular for the rest of the wall. So if I skimmed both can I tank over the plaster? Also you don't have to tank the floor do you?
I'd use moisture resistant plasterboard in the shower area.
I don't think you can tank on top of the plaster (you'll have to check the instructions with your tanking kit)
No, you only need to tank the floor if you are making a wet room (best left to a professional)
@@ultimatehandyman - Thanks for the reply, well that's good about the flooring. Well the only reason I wanted to tank on top of plaster is to keep the wall levels the same depth wise. I'll be using moisture resistant boards for sure in shower area.
I don't understand. How do you make the holes where the pipes in the wall go through water tight?
Great video, have you ever tried peeling or picking this stuff off? Curiosity got to me after it had dried, and I was surprised how easy it was to peel off. Apparently the manufacturers say this is normal, however, I can't help but question the adhesive qualities.
No, I have never tried that (yet) 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
That's a very good job but actually not the best. Before starting the tanking yoy could waterproof cement board like abacus ones instead moisture resistant plasterboard. So not only the first layer made by the coating is waterproof but the complete thickness of the board itself
You don't need to tank the area, if using cement based backer boards 😉
@@ultimatehandyman I always watch skill builder channel by Roger and bisbee. He uses cement board and he does use a blue water proofing thick liquid that he brushes for the joints, the screw heads and then he tape it. Around pipes HE USES A NEOPRENE gasket and same story but he doesn't brush the entire surface of the boards.
@@antoniogalluccio4213 You only need to tank the whole area, if using plasterboard. If you are using cement fibre boards, you install them differently. I prefer moisture resistant plasterboard, but if you use cement fibre backing boards, you don't need to use a tanking kit!
Great video. I’m installing a shower tray and the shower screen needs to be secured by drilling in the the tanked area. How do I keep this waterproof? I was thinking silicone in the holes but is there a ‘proper’ way? Cheers
When I installed my shower screen I drilled the holes and put some clear silicone in them before inserting the wall plugs ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Just noticed this video is years old after watching!! Have you moved onto using foam board now?
I'd still use moisture resistant plasterboard in a bathroom. I have used foam backed plasterboard, but not in a wet area.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I was told that you should use nonails then screw plaster board on I think you need more screw in your plasterboard ?
The fixing foam that I used is designed for fixing plasterboard. Mechanical fixings are only used to comply with the building regulations.
Hi, great video, this will be me at the weekend. In my tanking kit instructions it say 'fill any voids or holes with sealant' Most of my screw holes have been sunk (probably should have) am I best to fill every hole with sealant? If so would you recommend a certain type? Thanks!
+Joseph Loftus
Have the screw holes been sunk too deep?
If so then yes I would fill the holes before tanking.
I do not know which sealants are compatible with your tanking kit though, does it not specify which sealant to use?
If it does not you should be able to use any silicone sealant.
Having done the job badly, tiling throughout without doing this, I am getting leaks in kitchen below bathroom. I have a power shower into the bath tub where I stand. Not sure what to do as I am reluctant to destroy the tiling. I am worried about silicone and grouting because eventually they give and I get leaks. Is there something you can recommend?
That ladder sounds like a taser. 😀
Yeah, it's a pain in the backside with that creaking noise!
Thanks for the comment 👍
can the tanking strips be brought onto the tray and then tiled over/ seal strip over ? I have a few mm of a gap between tray/wall that needs to be bridged and the strip wont bridge it properly ,,,thanks
I would not use that strip to seal it, would ones of these not work- czcams.com/video/tRweaE32_ks/video.html
Do plastered walls need tanking and should water resistant plaster board be used even when plastering before tiling around a shower bath?
+ConicalRamirez
You can tank over plaster- but the plaster must be completely dry. You would have to check the instructions on the tub to see exactly what they recommend. Normally you can download a pdf file with the details before you purchase a tanking kit.
Okay, makes sense. Thanks for the fast reply.
Keep up the good work! ;-))
Im looking to complete a walk in shower area and have come across Hardiebacker instead of using moisture board. Have you ever used these? or is it best to stick with tanking moisture board as i want to dot and dab the walls then use fixings and Hardiebacker cant be dot and dabbed. Great channel btw and congrats on 50 miliion views!! cheers mate
+dannyniccy Hi, I have used Hardibacker board, but it is difficult to cut. Also it contains silica, so when you cut or drill into the material it releases the silica (which is not good for you). If you are using the dot and dab method I would definitely use moisture resistant plasterboard and then tank the shower area. The last time I did a bathroom I used Everbuild fixing foam, it worked a treat- czcams.com/video/3CJygvnajUAT/video.htmlhanks for the congratulations, much appreciated ;-)
great thanks for the tips! top stuff cheers
hello mate whats you opinion on tiling on hardwall gypsum plaster .i have a small section that needs to be tiled my plasterer says its ok just wanted a second opinion from a tiler .i was going to use the tanking system on it as well cheers alan
hello mate can this be used on plastered walls .also whats the prefered adhesive .is it ok to use the ready made tubbed stuff cheers alan
Can I tank on GTEC SINIAT VAPOUR BOARD plasterboard instead of green plasterboard? I went on guidance from a phone call with building standards, but now think I should have gone with first instincts and has the green stuff delivered.
Would you use this with plastered walls?
I've got to hack off existing tiles and retile my bathroom soon. I assume the tiles have were just adhered to the wall.
hi , I'm fitting a shower , one wall is already tilled ,two walls are new plasterboard , it would be a lot of work to take off the old tilles . can I tank over the existing tiles?, i want to tank all three sides the same
I don't think you can tank on top of tiles, but you could check with the manufacturer of the tanking kit.
We have had to strip back to brick on one side of the shower area. So do we plaster the uneven wall then put on waterproof plasterboard then tank or can we plaster and tank after skimming plaster?
Plaster is not the best material to tile onto.
I used plasterboard fixing foam to stick up waterproof plasterboard czcams.com/video/3CJygvnajUA/video.html
(You will need to add some mechanical fixings as well if you use this method)
Than tanked it and then tiled it.
***** Thanks. Sorry , but do you mean when you say mechanical fixing that we need to screw the plaster board to the brick?
helensmile63
Yes, but fix it to the wall using the dry fix foam first. Then add about 5 mechanical fixings to the plasterboard, such as wall plugs and large screws, You can get some special fixings for this purpose but they don't work too well in brick.
Do you use plasterboard and what type or cement board covered in paper that you can cut, or cement board which you cut with a saw. Thanks for any help.
I used moisture resistant plasterboard, which was tanked in the wet area of the bathroom.
Cement based boards are more expensive and more difficult to work with, and normally more expensive.
Thanks for the comment 👍
If you're using Epoxy Grout which is waterproof do you still need to tank the walls ?
If it's a domestic bathroom, you might get away with not tanking the walls, but I would definitely use moisture-resistant plasterboard, as it is not much more expensive than normal plasterboard.
Thanks for the comment 👍
No plasterboard but a solid masonry concrete wall I thinking bonding on top. The tiler has tanked the floor and 8 inches at the bottom of the wall. Would that be ok
Hi mate ! love the channel. would you still recommend using this method of waterproofing a bathroom today or would you change some things .
Yes, I would still do it this way in any wet areas of the bathroom.
Thanks for the comment
Hi just watched this video and it's helped me a lot so thanks. But one question are you going to Tile the shower area then plaster up to and around the edge of the tiles? Cheers
No, I tiled the whole bathroom. You only need to Tank in wet areas, such as above a bath where a shower is to be installed. You can see every video from start to finish on this job here- czcams.com/play/PL8F7B309DD836E837.html
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Ok cool I'm tiling part of the wall and plastering the rest, so I'm thinking I'll tile first, then plaster the rest. Or should I plaster the whole (plasterboard ) wall then tile after 😣 I'm comfused. Thanks
David Cooper
I think I'd fix a batten in position where you want the tiles to end, then plaster up to it. Once the plaster has gone off you can remove the batten and then tile. I'd only fix the batten in position with some mammoth tape or similar, no need to make any holes in the plasterboard ;-)
Thanks very much. I will use this method. Thanks again