Priming Drywall - What You Need to Know
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- čas přidán 28. 10. 2021
- Paint and Primer in One? Is it really good for priming drywall? Does it replace using oil primer on wood?
Over the years, the painting industry has changed a lot - specifically the products being used and their environmental impact.
In this video I discuss the differences between using a PVA (poly vinyl acetate) primer versus the paint-and-primer-in-one.
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Great info. Finally someone is clean about this subject. Thank you
Thanks so much for this quick and to the point video! Answered the question I had as I’m finishing my kitchen walls. Thanks again!
Thanks for such a good explanation as to WHY, too!
Gotta love a straight answer. Thanks Paul, you've got a sub 👍
Thanks for your feedback Guy.
I was amazed by my primer pva. I had good coverage with just one coat on freshly installed drywall.
This video reminds me of when I used to travel to Jamaica with my family several times a year. The children loved it. Especially, chasing the baby animal and waking up early to go out with their grandfather to feed the animals. They are all professionals now and give back to Jamaica in many ways. Bless up to you and your family.
Thanks for your comment! Curious, how does it remind you of your trips to Jamaica?
🤔🤔
Paul thanks for the video. Very good tip on the primer sealer. I do drywall also a third-generation painter. I would agree with you on the primer and then use your top coats.
Thanks for your feedback Greg. As you know, there’s lots of variables with painting and every job is slightly different. But I hope this video helps others too.
Absolutely great advice - use PVA primer on drywall
Thank you Sir! Quick and to the point !
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment! 👍
Great information!
Great explanation 👌🏽!!!! Thank u
Outstanding
Good information.
painted for 15 years and you are spot on. Unfortunately when people buy new holmes the builder hires the cheapest painters they can find and the painter has to supply the paint. When this happens the painter will put two coats of the cheapest flat paint on the wall right over the drywall. I always hated that, felt like it was a crappy job. I loved it when the owner would contract us outright and pay the extra and we would prime the drywall with a primer first then put two coats of quality paint over it. Gotta say ive been doing alot of painting lately and absolutely hate how they have changed the paint, it leaves you zero time to work the paint. The drying time is ridiculous. I prefer a paint that takes longer to dry so you can spread it and get a beautiful finish. Top it off the paint nowadays destroys your brushes to boot.
Thanks for the comment, I tend to agree with most of what you're saying. The new construction world have very little quality, and leaves new homeowners with less than average quality.
Some water based paint is considered "contractor grade" and is aimed at professionals. It dries too fast to brush or roll and needs to be sprayed. Not all paint is like that.
Great advice
Thanks for keeping it short
- PVA is an acronym for Poly Vinyl Acetate.
- PVA Primers deposit a rubbery synthetic polymer that seals over any tiny holes in the surface you apply it to, creating a solid surface for the paint to adhere to. It’s precisely this poly vinyl acetate that separates PVA primer from paint. It will adhere much better to porous surfaces rather than simply being absorbed like paint. However, it won’t cover over stains or colors in the base material and it is generally not a good wood sealer.
- PVA Primer and Drywall Primer are both PVA primers and are exactly the same. The ONLY reason for the labeling difference is for marketing. Drywall Primer creates an exclusive association to drywall, and thus the best product to use for drywall. PVA Primer does not create that exclusive association, but same primer is also the best primer for brick, masonry, plaster, stucco, and some even throw in wood. A manufacturer could sell the same product in two different containers.
Great info, thanks for your feedback. The paint industry is all about relabelling the same products.
What are your thoughts on Kilz II? Is it a good product for priming new sheetrock?
The reason you want a primer sealer is to seal the surface so humidity does not travel into the drywall compound and reactivate later and cause peeling. The primer grips the surface so later on you do not have peeling over the multi surfaces like old paint, sanded compound or scraped popcorn ceilings. When you prime and seal surfaces prior to finishing on existing surfaces you will use less mud and it will flow better on the work. Fresh drywall will not work well with paint and primers . It does not adhere well to sanded compound. I use "PPG Gripper" formerly "Glidden Gripper"...for me it has worked well.
Great reply! Thanks for the tips
Thank you, just scrap popcorn ceiling and running out of time before we move in so I’m skipping the skim coat process on entire ceiling and instead I’ll just prime+ seal Kilz2 and then paint. This video helped a lot!
Very true
There are several reasons why, OP and you are both correct
@@OneklickmediaI was wondering about Kilz 2.
That's what I use because they sell it at Home Depot and also my local hardware store.
How many coats of Kilz 2 do you recommend?
All the drywall patch videos I watched nun mentioned I should prime the drywall mud thank you
Well, it’s true that it’s not imperative to primer drywall patches however doing so with an appropriate drywall sealer does help seal the mud patch. When you just paint overtop fresh drywall patches you risk the paint not fully soaking into the mud, which can lead to the paint bubbling or having adhesion issues. It’s not always the case, and some primer and paint products are designed to primer small drywall patches. However, in large, and specifically new drywall renovations or new construction it’s just good practice to use a PVA drywall sealer. If you have any questions about your paint project, or need local painter recommendations call 1-866-724-6818 or visit www.trustedhousepainter.com
Thank you Sir
Thank you! 🙂
Good information, thanks
You’re welcome!!
Great video thanks
You’re welcome. If you need painting quotes or painting advice you can use our free app at www.trustedhousepainter.com or call tool-free 1-866-724-6818
Thank you bro.
You’re welcome!!👍👍
Thank you 🍻
I purchased a rehab that the previous owners had hired out. The Sheetrock was only two years old. I hired someone to paint the house. He didn’t know much about painting, which I didn’t realize when I spoke to him originally. I found out after he had put down two coats of paint and the coverage was terrible. He figured out that the contractor DIDN’T use ANY sealer, but just white flat. Ugh! A Very expensive mistake!
It unfortunate you had to go through this. Many homeowners deal with this. That’s why we created Trusted House Painter - to help homeowners avoid those kind of painters. Thanks for your comment.
On a smooth finish I like back rolling my pva when I spray it.
Looks way better.
Thanks for this video. I’ve been tearing my hair out, first time drywaller trying to figure out if I could take the “easy” route and just use the paint+primer on new drywall, I did an entire room, 3 walls plus the ceiling so I have a lot. I’ll be grabbing a can of the drywall primer. I’m far from perfect too so maybe it’ll help hide some of the tiny pinholes and whatnot that I’ll have missed.
Good work Brian! Painting isn’t always as easy as it seems. And although “it’s just paint” and can be corrected, it’s important to do it right the first time. I’m sure you could use the paint and primer in one on new drywall but it does cost more and it doesn’t always produce the same results are traditional PVA primer and paint. Let us know if you need any other tips and tricks. Or if you need to hire a local Trusted House Painter. You can visit our site and use our app for free!! www.trustedhousepainter.com
@@TrustedHousePainter Great Video. what if you buy a regular paint and mix it with Killz Pva Primer and then paint the fresh new drywall? Instead of priming first and then painting again. Trying to save on time. what you think? thanks in advance
@@AA-eb7sd That's a good question. First off, I think if you mixed the paint with a primer, you would void the warranty of the paint. Also, unless you purchased a flat sheen paint, the flat sheened primer would reduce the sheen level of the paint. Also, the purpose of the primer is to soak into and seal the fresh drywall, and the paint is designed to apply itself to the primer coat. Mixing the two may cause adhesion issues to the fresh drywall (and drywall mud). Im sure people have done that, but we've never tried that.
@@TrustedHousePainter That makes sense. Thanks for your response. I am a DIY guy, not a contractor, I will go ahead and just use Killz PVA primer on new drywall by spraying it. Then I will sand it and then just use BEHR Premium Plus paint. I think that should be good trying to be cost-effective here lol. Do you know another better and cheaper route? Thanks in advance. Happy Fourth!
@@AA-eb7sd for best results with new drywall you should always use a drywall specific primer. The behr primer and paint is a little overkill IMO considering the drywall is already sealed with primer. But you can definitely use a high end paint.
In the uk for fresh plaster we use 50% emulsion and 50 water. Can we do the same for drywall/plasterboard?
Same for in a bathroom. Bought a home 2 years ago and the guest bathroom paint started to bubble and peel in sheets. We did replace the fan as well. As I am now in the process of removing (painfully) the paint, it does not appear that a sealer/primer was put on the drywall
We understand your pain and appreciate your story. Paint-and-primer-in-one products are often sold as the "solution" to small projects. However, as Paul mentions in the video, it's always best to use a PVA drywall sealer for new drywall - especially on new drywall in wet rooms like Kitchens and Bathrooms. It's important because the PVA primer soaks deeply into the drywall, creating superior adhesion while blocking the acrylic latex coating from reactivating the drywall mud (or any moisture beneath the primer.) If you need a local painter you can search our app or create a free listing and have painters contact you! trustedhousepainter.com/
So glad that I found your video, and just in time. About to conquer a project where the drywall wasn't primed originally, causing the paint to peel off, as well as the taped joints. Such an ugly mess that resulted years later, from lazy/unskilled drywallers. This is a tall recessed area in a bathroom that leads to a skylight. The bathroom also houses the washer and dryer, no doubt causing even more issues with heat and humidity.
Do you have any more recommendations that would apply to this type of sheetrock repair, where constant humidity is an issue? Also, we are in south Georgia, two minutes from the Florida line, where heat is always an issue!
We highly recommend using drywall primer sealer to prime the drywall and then using a high quality Kitchen and Bath paint like Benjamin Moore Aura (bath and spa) or Sherwin Williams Duration. Both are great products, very durable and are meant for high moisture wet rooms. I have a video taking with a Ben Moore Rep (Jacey) about a skylight that is directly overtop of a kitchen sink - that has no venting.
Also, another tip is make sure you have a high power fan venting the moisture and steam out of the bathroom. If you can install a vent in the skylight that would be best.
@@TrustedHousePainter paint and primer mix also show through bedded joints. You'll see every joint in your wall's because the paint is absorbed deeper by the drywall rather than the joint compound (or it may be the other way around, I don't remember.) I never use pre-mixed primer/paint, unless I'm re-painting walls and there's no repairs to be done.
@@stevehairston9940 yes. Agreed. That’s why it’s best to prime fresh drywall and mud with real primer.
@@TrustedHousePainter drywall finishing is an optical illusion. T&B wall's are never perfectly flat, even if you skim coat the whole wall.
I have neighbor that started building a huge 3bay shop with an attached apartment just as covid19 hit hard.
With work being hard to find, I offered my services from framing to finishing drywall. When it came time for drywall, I gave him a more than fair price considering the covid crisis we were going through at time.
His response was "that's the most outrageous number I've ever seen .there's now way I'm gonna pay you that much". To which I said, that's my price and I'm sticking to it.
So he found some fly by night crew to do it and they actually did a decent job.
Now comes the funny part. The painter finishes up and he raised all holy hell about seeing every joint in the walls and ceilings. He blames the drywall crew even though I explained to him why he needed to use PVA prime when I gave my bid.
So then he blames the painter, who I already know. So I asked him about it and he says, no he supplied the paint and insisted we use what he bought. 🙄
A couple months go by and he calls begging me to help him sheetrock, tape/ float and texture the lower 12ft of his shop wall's that are 45ft long. Again I tell to use PVA primer so the joints won't show through. He hires a guy that doesn't know the first thing about building anything, to paint his shop wall's since I can't get to it.
Fast forward a few months and I start hearing rumors of what a shitty job I and his painter did. 😐😂
Then he has the nerve to call me and asks me to help him pour some concrete. Of course tore into him like an F5 tornado told him he was a liar and was seriously considering suing him for defamation.
Haven't heard from him since. That was 8mo ago. Now he avoids me like the plague or covid, take your pick. 😃
Guy is a real piece of work.
Oh, and I found later (his dad accidentally spilled the beans) that his drywall contractor cost him something like $1800.oo more than what my bid was, for drywall and finishing his apartment. 😂
@@stevehairston9940 yeah I hear ya. Lots of clowns out there. The marketplace for trades is fat, and if/when the economy corrects itself only the real pros will survive.
Just keep doing good work and never look back. Even more importantly, don’t battle weaker opponents. They’ll bring you down to their level.
we tint the primer in the top coat color too
That’s a very smart idea! Especially considering it sometimes takes more than 2 coats to achieve a true color.
Priming drywall is a crucial step in achieving a flawless finish for your walls. Not only does it provide a smooth surface for paint application, but it also seals the porous material, enhancing paint adhesion and durability. Understanding the essentials of priming can make all the difference in your DIY projects or professional endeavors. From choosing the right primer to proper application techniques, this article covers everything you need to know to ensure your drywall looks its best. Don't skip this vital step in the painting process!
This sounds like an AI written comment. Thanks.
Nice man thanks a framer by trade gotta a job I'm boutta have to do. Wats up on texturing??
i bought the kilz drywall primer and after i had it at home on directions it says don't use for priming under glossy finishes you have to use kilz 2 so if i am painting a bathroom with something like eggshell or satin the step below semigloss would this work for that i want a waterproof mold resistant top coat.
Drywall primer is slightly different than oil or wood primers. I've never seen a drywall primer in a kilz can but I usually get the oil based kilz for most applications. It just sticks, and you can apply most high quality paints overtop.
Got a question man,, i skim coated my bathtoom wall with some all purpuse joint compund to get a smmoth looking wall to cover the old ugly texture. I did it, the wall is now smooth,, took me forever, but its not bad. I painted the wall with a valspar stain blocker /primer/waterbase. So when it dried i scratch it with my nail to see if it bonded and it peel off, almost all of it. I took off most of the peel , resanded, re-skim coated and now the wall is looking smooth again,,,, i also did a test on a extra piece of drywall i had,,, the valsoar adhered good to tje drywall . However when i skim coated the test drywall piece the valspar primer didnt hold on to the skim coat..... i dusted the piece well,, lightly went over it with a damp cloth to try to remove any dust..... still didnt hold. You have any recommendation for a primer that i can use ,tjat i can buy at lowes or home depot.... what you think?
@@applewhiteroad wow. That’s super interesting. Never really heard of this happening to a skim coat. I would like to know what product the skim coat was. Was it premixed mud? Or did you add the water? Maybe an additive in the mud? Did you try using an oil primer - Kilz or Zinsser? I know working with oil sucks but give it a test. If it’s a small section on the wall you could buy an aerosol spray can and blast it. Maybe give that a try. I don’t know many primer products from Lowe’s or HD. try Kilz.
If you watch the entire video he says repeatedly to use a primer / sealer. You CAN use a paint n primer for a small patch but would need 3 coats to bring it up and he recommends again to use a primer / sealer.
Hey man, thanks for this information. Question for you, is it best to prime before applying a spray on texture, or is it better to spray texture on to bare sheetrock and then prime afterwards? Thanks for your insight.
I’ve never sprayed texture onto Sheetrock but in my experience I’ve seen it done both ways. I would think that neither is “the right way” and NOT priming is quicker and faster - especially if you’re gonna paint the finished product.
Priming before texture will give you a bit more working time for doing a knock down etc, but is more work than it's worth IMO as you will need to prime the texture also. If you plan on texturing, just apply mud for texture, prime, paint. Most drywall compound has plenty of adhesion so bonding to bare drywall is no problem whatsoever.
Please do not prime drywall before texture. Especially with that kilz primer. When I show up to a job with primer it’s a hit or miss. The knockdown will hold sometimes or it will slide and smear all over the place. If you decide to prime try Murco PVA but still might be a miss.
@@adriansoto7393 Bejamin Moore E46 is an excellent primer for new drywall and a primer for glossy walls, too. If there are water stains later on, oil base covers that.
Amazing explanation! How many coats of primer do you recommend?
Just one, if you apply it correctly.
I have new drywall but didn’t prime/seal it… I painted ‘prime + paint’ on it… I bought some pretty good one coat but am afraid of putting it on because it might peel or get ruined?
Lots of variables at play in your situation. Is the fresh drywall a small patch? Is it in a bathroom? If the drywall is more than a 10x10 patch I'd consider priming it with a drywall sealer.
Question: if you don’t see mud patches all over and the wall looks flat white and dingy (in a shop) is that primed?
I bought a house with a shop and I want to paint the shop but I’m not sure if I need to use the pvc primer. Thanks for any help to my question.
Wipe your hand along the wall. Does it leave chaulky residue on your hand? If so then it’s unprimed drywall - which should be sealed. If you wipe your hand along the wall and there’s no chaulky residue then it’s likely primed. Applying a primer coat helps seal the soft drywall so that it doesn’t ding or chip easily. Adding a couple coats of paint increases it’s durability as well. Hope that answers your question
@@TrustedHousePainter
Answered it perfectly! Thank you gazzillions for the quick response! Ready to move forward 🤗
Can I use a roller to apply the PVA?
Waiting on part for my sprayer and need to get bathrooms done before plumber arrives.
Absolutely... you can use a roller, brush or airless sprayer to apply PVA primer.
My question is, how do you get rid of the overlap Look on new drywall even using PVA you still have it and it shows through even two coats of finish paint.
If you apply the right amount of primer (and back roll evenly), and use a high quality paint you shouldn’t see any overlap marks. Usually, overlap marks are cause by insufficient amount of paint/primer along with uneven pressure on your roller while back rolling. If you find yourself working too hard, that means that you haven’t applied enough paint to the wall. You should let the roller do the work.
What if I forgot to dust before using pva? Only used a small dewalt blower to blow some off
I’m sure that’s fine, it’s just good practice and habit to dust the walls free from drywall dust prior to coating the drywall. If you’re backrolling the primer coat, which is also good practice, it helps work the product into the surface and level out the coatings.
Do I need to clean all the dust off the walls after I sand and before I prime?
Yes, it’s generally a good idea to remove all dust and debris prior to priming or painting. To get the best, smooth finish always sand in between coats. You can wipe with a broom, use a vacuum or wipe down with a dry rag. Best to wear a face mask as it will be dusty.
Are the thick primers good? I am doing my entire house and I wanted to use a thick primer to help cover all of the small imperfections. I was thinking of using Benjamin Moore ULTRA SPEC prep-coat high build primer
Yes you can use high build primers to help level out some of your wall imperfections. I assume you’d be priming over previously painted surfaces? Just keep in mind that if you’re priming new drywall you don’t need high build primers.
@@TrustedHousePainter it’s new drywall, won’t high build help hide imperfections?
@@21gonza21 it really all depends on how bad the imperfections are. In my experience the high build will help but it won’t make the walls look perfectly smooth. I’d also re immense using a flat (Matt) sheen paint. This helps lower the shine of the walls which highlights the imperfections. The lower the sheen the less imperfections show.
Thank you. Wondering if it’s best to also have it tainted?
Yes you can tint it but I’d be careful adding too much dark colouring. In some cases adding too much colourant slows the drying time and can affect the finished product.
If you were spraying, what Tip would you use. Would you use a Hea tip?
Not sure what a Hea tip is… but I wouldn’t use anything less than a 5/15 tip. In fact, when spraying primer onto drywall it’s best to always backroll the spray as it works the primer into to drywall and spreads ot out evenly - allowing the surface to dry thoroughly. Plus backrolling (and Jack brushing corners) ensures the primer sticks to the drywall. Sometimes there’s drywall dust lodged in the corners and the primer sticks to the dust, rather than the drywall board. This is problematic if you later apply tape to the painted surface as it can rip off the layers of paint exposing the bare drywall.
Paint and primer in one is literally for idiots, first off primer is a sealer and can soak into a surface, Paint is a topcoat with no properties of primer, having both those properties in one can is impossible, glad you did address how much more expensive it would be to use, the idea with all in one is more for changing colors however I still haven't found any paint that actually is one coat coverage like they claim on the can.
Go to know thanks
No problem, you're welcome! If you need to find local painters go to www.trustedhousepainter.com
After priming, do you need to sand the walls/ceiling before putting on finish paint?
Highly recommended. Of course you don’t “need” to but it’s good practice doing so. After the primer coat the drywall fibres tend to soak up the moisture causing a rough surface to touch. Using a 100 or 120 grit sand paper and sanding between coats gives a good final finish.
Appreciate the repy anf info. Thank you !
Thanks for the knowledge It was exactly what I was looking for thanks again
You’re welcome. If you need any other painting advice or need a local painter you can call our toll-free hotline or reach out to us at our website at www.trustedhousepainter.com
@@TrustedHousePainter you got yourself a new subscriber with all notifications
@@youtubecommercialsareascam8495 sweet! Thanks.
I’m doing a skim coat, so over poorly done drywall, heavy texture that’s streaky, and then paint. This still needs to be sealed, yes??
We would definitely recommend using a drywall primer to seal this skim coat. It helps seal the drywall mud and allow all the top coats to hide properly. Otherwise, you could get inconsistent (spotty) coverage if you don't use a drywall sealer/primer. I hope this helps. If you ever need to get quotes or find local painters, use our free platform found at www.trustedhousepainter.com or call our toll-free hotline at 1-866-724-6818
Which primer sealer would you recommend for level 5 smooth wall?
Does it matter whether you use water-based or oil based paint with pva
Good question. In my experience, it doesn’t really matter. Oil and water based paints stick well to drywall. With today’s paint technology I’m not sure why anyone would want to use oil based paint on drywall. They make great water based products like Ben Moore Command - a waterborne urethane, which sticks to almost all surfaces. Plus it’s less toxic and easier to clean. While oil paint has its place, specifically in the marine and industrial industries water based paints have come a long way - especially for interior applications.
Do i need to prime again after spraying texture? Or can I Prime -> Texture -> Paint? Thanks
Texture walls? Or ceilings? A primer wouldn’t hurt but I don’t know all the details of your job.
@@TrustedHousePainter I'll put texture on the ceilings and a little bit here and there on the walls. I'm planning to spray primer before the texture. Wondering if I can spray the paint next day or do I need to spray an additional coat of primer over the texture? I have seen mixed opinions on this. Thanks
@@claytonpabst good question. If it was me, I’d likely spray primer over the new texture before I paint it. However, it’s also common for stipple or texture ceilings to NOT be painted after it’s applied. But you can paint it after it’s applied. In short, the little amount of time it takes to prime it could save you problems in the future. I believe in doing things right the first time, but not everyone thinks like that.
Gotta remember to sand your primer too. Before paint
Yes. Always sand between coats! That’s good practice.
@@TrustedHousePainter what kind of #grit for sanding primer?
@@khelix23 I like to use 100 grit sandpaper after the primer coat. The (hair) fibres on the drywall tend to get raised and become very rough after the primer dries. The 100 grit knocks off all the rough parts off. HOWEVER, be gentle when sanding, especially if the primer is dry but still curing. I usually wait until the primer is completely dry before I sand.
The way he pronounced “house” I already knew this guy was Canadian lmao
Would this be the same primer for new drywall ceilings before texture
Yes, most drywall primer would work Howe er we recommend PVA primer for all new drywall.
@@TrustedHousePainter I use SW products. Do you spray and bankroll the wall and ceiling primer. I didn’t think 200 was PVA
@@BZ1340 Right! It's not. It's a vinyl acrylic latex primer.
Does the primer cover sanding marks on the mud?
It should... if you mean - does it "hide" the sanding marks on the mud? Probably not. But primer seals both new drywall and the drywall mud. If you need any assistance you can call 1-866-724-6818 or if you need a painter near you, create a free listing and get quotes at www.trustedhousepainter.com Thanks for your comment!
How many square feet per gallon should I expect to get when priming new drywall with PVA primer?
Probably 300-400 sq ft per gal. Make sure you apply it liberally. You don’t want to stretch it out too far.
Hey Paul, I had a ceiling patch done. It was about a 5 ft seam crack. They did the work texture looked perfect. After I painted 2 coats flat no primer it really is noticeable. Is this because of flashing due to no primer? It is knock down texture. Patch seems to be pretty flat , they built out pretty good 1.5 - 2ft Thanks in advance .
Thanks for the comment. It’s possible flashing because of not using primer. But it’s also very difficult to match pre-existing textures. Also, did they paint the whole ceiling or just the repair area?
Thanks for the response, actually the whole interior of the house was painted including the ceilings, I had a joint crack, I had a drywall guy do the texture work which looked good. Then I painted it with two coats of Pro Mar ceiling paint no primer. Now it really seems to stand out .
@@heeb3569 hmmmm... not really sure why it stands out.... what I would do is bring a friend or two over and ask them what they think of the painting (without telling them your concerns about the ceiling). See if anyone really notices.... sometimes only you notice it because you know what happened. I can't say 100% that it's standing out because you didn't use a primer however applying a primer first generally seals the surface for the paint to stick. Also, if the surrounding ceiling was previously painted, perhaps you need to apply another full coat to the new areas to match the current layers of paint??? There could be a variety of reasons it stands out, but it's hard to say without seeing it. Lastly, you could try applying a coat of mat paint (mat is usually flatter than "flat" paint). I hope this helps.
@@TrustedHousePainter Thanks for all the advice.
If there is a way I can send you a quick photo just to see what you think not sure if I can send photos on this chat ?
Is one coat of drywall primer sufficient?
Generally, yes. As long as you apply it correctly and make sure you don't stretch it out too much. The main thing you want, is to seal the drywall so that the paint coatings don't get soaked into the drywall.
Will a latex pva primer make fresh drywall bubble up?
It shouldn’t. Just make sure the drywall mud is completely dry before applying the primer. If you coat drywall mud that may still be wet, it could cause the primer coat to bubble. But normally, if the drywall mud is dry and you apply the primer as recommended on the can you should never get bubbling.
Thank you!
Do you dilute primers to soak new drywall? If so, how much water would you add typically?
I don’t usually water down primer or paint. I’ve heard it’s what was done back in the day but if you add water to your primer it voids the warranty of the product. Plus primer is dirt cheap so I just make sure the drywall is prepped and coated properly.
I would say 15 maybe 20 percent max if it's really thick. 10 percent is usually good in my experience.
Sure would be nice to see how to primer a new textured” wall !! Hint !
Textured wall? Hint?
It’s just all the post’s I’ve seen have been smooth.
The walls that is.
For textured wall surfaces it’s all the same. If you’re sealing textured walls, I’d recommend using the same PVA primer. It’s cheaper than paint and seals the texture and allows for good adhesion for the paint. Also, it might be preferable to spray the product on textured walls, as opposed to rolling. Rolling can (sometimes) damage the textured effect. Either way, priming it with a PVA primer is still recommended.
I've seen on youtube that PVA is good and others are adamant and say not to use PVA because it peels off. Why is there such a difference in opinion? Which is correct?
Good question. The reason for the opposing opinions is because everyone has an opinion on the internet. There’s lots of good comments explaining the difference between PVA and regular primer. But it’s mainly an economic alternative for a standard primer. PVA tends to protect the surface from absorbing unwanted substances, and it covers imperfections in the drywall. Especially those little “fish-eyes” holes if the drywall mud is applied too thick and isn’t sanded correctly. I like it because it’s cheaper than other primers.
Thank you. I want to do this right the first time and not get frustrated. @@TrustedHousePainter
Can we use pva on stucco?
That’s a good question. But I’m not too sure why you’d want to. Usually any exterior acrylic paint can be applied (spray is best). I’ll look into it and get back to you. Thanks for the comment.
Do you backroll every coat of pva?
My preference is to bankroll new drywall sealer. You don’t always have to, but for good practice, I do.
@TrustedHousePainter does new drywall need 2 coats of pva, and if so do you backroll both coats?
@@TheBenjammin no, new drywall does not need 2 coats of PVA primer. You should apply a moderate amount of primer to the drywall, allowing the drywall to be properly covered.
Question: if you prime the wall and it’s still rough are you able to sand the primer/sealer or would this defeat the purpose?
Yes, it will be fine to sand the wall after the primer. In fact, professional painters always sand in between coats because after each coat (and specifically after drywall primer) there are drywall fibres that get raised and become rough from the absorption of the primer sealer. Plus sanding after your coating allows to to remove any particles or “chunkies” that may have been painted over.
The key is to use a 100-150 sanding paper, and just lightly sand the walls. Don’t push too hard and follow up with a quick swipe of your hand to feel if the wall is smooth.
Sanding and roughing each surface allows for the next coat of paint to grip to the previous coating.
@@TrustedHousePainter thanks so much. This explanation is incredibly helpful.
@@TrustedHousePainter I have been painting for over 40yrs. I Found that sanding between coats is highly recomended. In some cases i will do a 2nd coat of primer after sanding and it tends to hide the joints better. Of course if i really want a great wall finish i will skim coat so there are no drywall paper areas to highlight the joints.
@@OCAGFDuke hey Jerry, with new drywall. you spray primer, sand, then roll with colors? do you dust the walls off or all the stuff should fall to the ground?
with existing drywall that has been painted, prime and sand then roll?
@@robk8451 Always dust off the wall after sanding and before painting. With drywall that has been painted there's no need to prime unless you are making a drastic color change.
Can I use just a paint/primer on garage walls?
The primer and paint products are pretty good. Are your garage walls already painted? Or are they new drywall? Or are they wood walls? Also is your garage insulated?
These questions help analyze the best paint system. However, if you don’t really care (garage) I’m sure you could just use the paint and primer in one products.
@@TrustedHousePainter new, I’m going to insulate and Sheetrock….but it’s a rental so don’t need to go overboard.
@@Given2Fly7173 I guess it really depends on how much you get the top premium primer and paint products for. You can purchase PVA primer from Sherwin-Williams for pretty cheap, and you can complement that with a medium grade paint such as Sherwin-Williams solo or Benjamin Moore Ultraspec. You could even try Sherwin-Williams property solutions if you don’t really care about the quality. I would recommend spec’ing out the price for each option. You might get away with one coat of primer and paint in one.
PVA drywall sealers are used mainly because they are low cost. There are better pure acrylic sealers on the market.
Can I prime the wall first then do the drywall after?
Do you mean prime the wall and then mud the joints after? If so, that’s not really recommended as tape worked best on unprimed drywall. This video is mainly for new construction or renovations - where you have a lot of new drywall installed. For small wall patches and drywall areas (repaint) you don’t have to use a PVA sealer primer. You can use the primer-and-paint in 1 product directly on those patch marks. Then Top coat and it’ll look good. 👍🏽
@@TrustedHousePainter I think so I prime my wall first .you think it was best thing to do?
@@theresaphipps1904 I’m not 100% sure what you did so it’s difficult to comment.
@@TrustedHousePainter I prime the ceiling first is that ok?
@@theresaphipps1904 as I mentioned before, it’s best practice to complete the taping and muddying of new drywall before applying the primer. But if your system of priming first snd then muffing works, that’s good. But you’ll need to prime the tape and mud after so you’re kind of doubling up on your priming.
Copenhagen?
What about wallpaper
Do you mean priming wallpaper? If you need to prime wallpaper, I suggest using an oil primer as an acrylic latex primer might reactivate the glue underneath it which can cause bubbling of the wallpaper. Does this answer your question?
I tint the drywall primersealer to the final color and for rentals I only use tinted SW primer/sealer.
I’ve tried those primer/paint mixes, not too impressed. A small patch on a wall needs a minimum of 3 coats coverage before it blends into the rest of the wall.
Poly Vinyl Acetate 😁
Yeah. We made the correction in our description. Thanks for the correction!!
Trusted House Painter
I had to be that guy lol. Great information
How much you charge for a square foot 😮
Anywhere from $2-$20. Lots of variables.
For goodness sakes. Please use a primer to seal the wall or someone is coming behind you in a few years and chipping/sanding paint away to do it again.
@Sorum & Sons FF & Painting who said anything about paint/primer? I said paint. And, yes. You’ll have to scrape it off as much as you can with a razor blade and sand it when it starts to peel. Then reseal it.
Most House builders (i.e., General Contractors) use basic paint to prime with. Of course it's cheap. And it's subpar! I did drywall for 20 years professionally. Honesty....that's what I've seen. Make sure to watch your general house contractor who builds your house. Cooky cutter houses by BIG BUILDERS do this. AND YOU WILL NEVER KNOW until it's way toooo late. Sorry. Just the way it is.
BE WISE
Yes, ^^this advice is solid^^ - it’s true, a lot of new builds cheap out on the products and the process. Many times contractors will only apply 2 coats to new drywall - they will tint the primer to the colour (usually ‘builders beige’) and then apply only 1 top coat. AND… they rarely sand in between coats leaving certain wall areas feeling rough. It’s not all the time but we see it happen a lot because it cuts costs.
That drywall is supposed to have a skim coat of drywall mud on it, never supposed to be left bare paper.
It appears google has mixed info on whether you MUST skim coat overtop the whole wall of new drywall. However, in my experience with over 20 years of new construction and renovations, working with hundreds of contractors, I’ve never seen a who wall skim coated. I can understand why some contractors do this, but IMO it’s a complete waste of money. If a painter sands the walls after every coat and applies the paint coating thickness correctly, it doesn’t make any difference.
I didn’t know Eminem was a drywall guy?!?
paint and primer (in one) is really just used for advertisement
if you don't use PVA the drywall will suck up all of your paint.
you got that right!!! 100%
Thank you! All great instruction and advice. However, the "A" in PVA stands for ACETATE, not for acrylic. Please let me know if this comment helps anyone. Thank you.
Yes you are correct. I was corrected by others too.
I disagree with this. We should look at "primer" as a process not a product. Pva does not seal drywall or mud at all. What it does is equalizes the absorbtion of paint into the paper and mud. If you splash a bit of water onto a surface primed with Pva , the water does not bead, it soaks in. This is proff right before your eyes that it is not sealed. Most actual wall paints do a better job of sealing drywall than all drywall specific primers do. You can see and feel the difference when you are applying yoir first and second coats of finish paint. The first coat sinks in and dries really fast. That is not a sealed surface. The second top coat actually sits on the surface, this is a sealed surface. I've been painting for 29 years and have tried and tested dozens and dozens of primers from Pva, to acrylic to shellac. Pva has no place in an efficient drywall painting system. Zero , none...waste of time and a huge waste of paint when doing your first top coat.
Anyways, just my 2 cents on a subject I have been studying for the majority of my life.
Appreciate the lengthy reply and your experience in the painting industry. If it's true that "PVA has no place in an efficient drywall painting system" why do Sherwin Williams and other paint manufacturers produce it and actively promote it. Are you saying you're right and they're wrong?
@@TrustedHousePainter yes that's exactly what I'm saying.
paint and primer has pva in it. less steps
2 coats
There is no such thing as Poly-Vinyl-Acrylic.
PVA is poly-vinyl-acetate. That is just a glue. Remember Elmer's white glue in your craft projects? Or Elmer's wood glue at hardware stores?
It's not polyvinyl acrylic it's polyvinyl acetate
PVA = polyvinyl acetate.....just sayin
Thanks for the correction.
You can not use paint and Primer in one on bare drywall. It WILL peel! I have seen it and bought a house done with it. Huge costly mistake! Hire a pro
Thanks for your feedback!
What you saying using paint with primer on fresh drywall is very controversial and is not a smart practice
The rest of your information is find.
I hope the novice painters who buy crappy paint at Home Depot watch this. I've seen people buy eggshell and paint fresh drywall with that. Then it doesn't absorb well and flashes.
No don't use a primer sealer for plaster. It is not as good by far as a PVA primer sealer. It's a marketing gimmick for lazy people who want to skip a step.
@@drewcama2488 no, DON’T use PVA for plaster. It will eventually unstick. You need to water down your primer 50% and put 2 coats of that on to soak in and create roots out to the paint. Any other method, pva, oil, will just create a film that will eventually peel off.
I tint the drywall primersealer to the final color and for rentals I only use tinted SW primer/sealer.
I tint the drywall primersealer to the final color and for rentals I only use tinted SW primer/sealer.
I tint the drywall primersealer to the final color and for rentals I only use tinted SW primer/sealer.
I tint the drywall primersealer to the final color and for rentals I only use tinted SW primer/sealer.
Was there an echo in there George ?😁