Delphi Harrison V5 A/C Compressor - Full Teardown and Reseal
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- čas přidán 19. 03. 2016
- In this rather lengthy video, I teardown a Delphi Harrison V5 air conditioning compressor. This compressor was used for many years across the General Motors car makes. In my other videos, people have asked me the details about the parts cleaning and other things that I often skip over. This video is long because I have included the parts cleaning and other details that I normally skip over.
It is a 5-cylinder, axial-piston variable displacement refrigerant gas compressor. The compensating valve changes pumping volume to maintain approx. 25 to 30 PSI of pressure on the low-pressure side of the A/C system.
These compressors are very durable because they contain their own lubrication oil reservoir. They will tolerate low refrigerant (Freon) charge better than other designs.
These compressors were used from the mid-80's through the 2000's. The early ones nearly all leak by now, due to seal and o-ring deterioration.
The process is straightforward to teardown, refurbish, and re-assemble the compressor. This process involves the following main tasks:
External parts removal.
Sealing of openings.
External cleaning.
Disassembly.
Inspection of parts.
Polishing of seal surfaces.
Prelubrication of working parts.
Re-assembly with new O-rings.
Install shaft seal.
Install new pulley bearing.
Install external parts.
Set clutch air-gap.
Vacuum check.
ADDITIONAL INFO (21 March 2016): Please see the following link for complete seal kits, which have the compensating control valve O-rings in them. My kits were older; whereas the newer ones are available complete. Search the store for V5 seal kits and you will find the complete version.
www.ebay.com/sch/mobilemechani... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I worked at the factory(Harrison/GM/Delphi..Dryden road Moraine , OHIO)where this compressor was made. I worked there 21 years. Until they shut it down in 2003.
My time was spent mostly in R4 and H6 machine lines. All total, I spent about 2-3 days in V5 assembly(dept. 101) in 21 years.
V5 came out in 1984 and by 2003 it was almost phased out in favor of the CVC(Compact Variable Compressor).
The V5 was the first automotive variable compressor.
Those guys in assembly could tear down a V5 in about 5 minutes! It was an amazing thing to watch.
When the industry went to the new Freon, GM made the shaft seal a double lip seal because the new Freon had a smaller molecular structure.
Fun fact,,,the Bradley Fighting vehicle of the US ARMY has two V5 compressors equipped for cooling the electronics and crew compartment.
Compressors were painted black(because GM wanted them painted)until about 1992-3 model years when we no longer painted them. Notice the front head on your rebuild was painted!
The original building on Dryden rd. was built by Orville Wright as the Dayton Wright Airplane Co.
His idea was to build seaplanes here, then wheel them down to the Miami River for take-off.
1926 Wright sells the building to Dayton native Charles F Kettering, founder of DELCO. Dayton Engineering Laboratories Co.
Kettering later sold out to GM.
Last official day of operation was August 31 , 2003. 2.2 million sq. ft.
When I started in 1985, there were over 4,000 hourly workers and 500 salary.
Franklin Sousley one of the Marine flag raisers on Iwo Jima worked at the plant.
It was a great place to work, oh the memories.
Thank you for the comment. It's great to hear about your experience working at the factory! This compressor in the video is still in service on one of my daily driver cars with the seal installed in the video.
I worked in 106, 104, 114 department.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. It has saved me a fortune. As it happens, this A/C Compressor is also used on the Ferrari 550 Maranello, and a replacement one is $5,700, so this has been a huge help being able to rebuild it vs having to buy a replacement. A few differences with the mounting lugs and electrical connector, but the internals were identical.
Glad it was helpful to you. It's always a challenge to keep exotics on the road. Interesting that they used the V5 on that car.
Just rebuilt my V5 compressor using this video as a reference - it was a great help! I even had to deal with corrosion on the shaft .
Wonderful and glad it helped you!
This is the best video I have ever seen in A/C compressor rebuilding full of details that help avoid mistakes , Thanks
Excellent video. I've always wanted to see the insides of a compressor.
Great, thanks for the comment. Glad the video was informative to you!
@@davida1hiwaaynet
A friend I want to communicate with you from the phone, WhatsApp or e-mail 00966595020101. Thank you and respect. I want to talk to you about work. I tried to find for you to contact the channel and I did not find you. Call me an address. Thank you for your understanding.
I'm impressed you were able to drive the front cover off the junkyard compressor without walloping the compressor body or your fingers with the hammer.... better than I would probably do!
LOL thanks, yeah finger non-destruction comes with experience!
I have one of these in my 1997 Olds (under)Achieva. Looking at this video just in case I go through with a do it yourself rebuild. Thanks for uploading.
Awesome video! I'll be rebuilding my V5 this summer. Thanks a lot for sharing this
+somewhere one
Thanks for the positive comment! Hope you have good success with yours.
A few notes from my experience rebuilding my V5 compressor.
Before installing a new bearing in the clutch, make sure it slides easily over the nose of the compressor, as shown in the video, and make sure there is room to install the C-clip. I had to lightly sand the nose with fine emory and polish with scotch-brite before the bearing would slide on. The new bearing was slightly thicker than the old one so the C-clip would not engage the slot. I used a file to remove a small shoulder at the base of the nose and to allow the bearing to sit down far enough for the clip to work. A lathe would have been better to polish the shaft and mill down the shoulder, but I don’t have access to one.
Watch out for flaring the metal on the magnet during installation, as pointed out in the video. With all the trouble I had getting the bearing to seat over the nose, I had that magnet off 4 or 5 times. Each installation caused a little more damage to the point the clutch was hitting on the edge and would not seat when I tried to install it. A little filing on the installed magnet removed enough of the flare that rotating the clutch a few times worked the edge down so the clutch would settle in place.
My large, cheap installation kit did not have the tool for installing the GM V5 compressor clutch, the outer part. It had a tool for removal. I had to buy a tool separately for the V5 compressor: Four seasons p/n 59518. $11 on Amazon; $40, elsewhere.
Make sure the tool is for the V5 compressor - there are other tools that work only on different GM compressors.
Thanks for the additional info!
Great presentation! Just finished our 96 Pontiac Sunfire GT and works great. Passed the leak tests. Couple comments. I wasn't certain about the bolt torque. Found the bolts should be 6 - 7 ft lbs (not inch lbs). Also if the clutch bearing sounds a little rough, one can pull the seals, clean rollers and repack to only about 60 to 70% with a good quality Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Do not overfill or will blead around the glands. I used the red synthetic Mobile 1 as was unable to obtain a good quality white lithium grease. Again, thanks for the great detailed video.
You're welcome and happy it helped you!
Great vid. Very helpful. Thanks.
Excellent video. Thank you from Spain!!
Well done.
Many thanks, the only video that really helped me!
Greetings from Russia!
Great video! Very thorough.
Thank you!
thanx for the video its really great job..liked it
a very good job.well done.
Excellent video, thank you.
Glad it helped you!
Wow man... thanks very much.....greeting from venezuela...
You're very welcome! I hope you're safe these days! I'm on a job in Trinidad and Venezuela is in the news each day.....
Thanks for your help
Very helpful. Just done my old one in the car.
Thanks. Glad it helped you!
Thanks for such informative video
great video congratulations good job thanks !!
Very good video, clean good work!
Thanks from egypt .. good job
Thank you!
I have those same snap ring pliers and I've learned to dislike them. Great video. I'd like to see one on a belly leaking HT-6.
Thank you for a very informative video.
When an A/C compressor is rebuilt, are the pistons/rings/cylinders replaced/refurbished?
Or is your presentation the extent of a professional rebuild? Thank you.
congratulations for the video. since I'm also doing the same job on a Harrison v5 I wanted to ask you which tightening torque you tightened the six bolts to. Thanks for your kind reply
Better impossible ! excelent video and explication, greetings from Venezuela
Thanks! Happy it helped you!
Mandale saludos a Maduro
David, I have enjoyed your video and have learned a lot. You've done a great job explaining the process. I have a question. How do I know that my compressor is worth rebuilding? The compressor is original and has cooled until recently. It has 200K miles on it. I don't feel any compression from the high side when it is on my bench. I created a gauge from an old hose block that bolts to the compressor. I cut off the hoses and threaded the high side tube and screwed in a PSI gauge. I left the low side open so it could pull in air. I spun the shaft and I don't see any movement on the gauge. Shouldn't I see movement? Could the rings be so bad that just replacing the orings will not fix it, or when I do a rebuild like your video, it will show pressure on my gauge? Can you buy rings for these compressors? Thanks again.
perfect Job ...
Vídeo muito bom! Você está de parabéns.
Thank you!
Now I see why they are so expensive! Very neat inside.
The control valve is an exceptional novelty, but it can make you go nuts when it malfunctions and leaves you with a compressor that runs unloaded most of the time, even when the system is fully charged and it's hot outside. I have one that for some reason unloads the compressor when the engine gets hot, and i'm looking to replace it
Double lip seal is fun going over the thimble.
I know this product v5 compressor perfectly, I worked in a v5 compressor assembly factory for 10 years
MIC cracktro I have a problem with the cambrowser how to solve it can i send you pictures
@@abdulaziza3116 hello , please give me an another traduction for "cambrowser"
I dont know what do you mean
Compressor
@@abdulaziza3116 ok ok what is your problem with the v5
thanks friend, spectacular, can you tell me what torque you have given with the torque wrench to the 6 compressor bolts?
Hmm, I wonder if locktite would work well for the steaked in bearings on U joints....
Thanks from Russia!
Saludos a Putin
Good explanation I want ask you I have a problem with the cambrowser how to solve it
Loved it... If you could do a rebuild on a ford escape compressor that would be great.
Thanks for the positive comment!
I haven't looked under the hood of an Escape. Normally stick to the 80's GM cars where my expertise is.
Good job! What torque have you used in external bolts?
On my 2003 Impala 3.4L, V5 Delphi Harrison 10306016 , I finally got the housing apart and it looks good but I'm wondering about the O-ring/shaft seal/snap ring/dust cover you installed at the end. From the outside, I don't see a snap ring; it's just a solid metal ring like a washer which may be part of the seal? I can see the rubber seal inside. No snap ring on the inside either. Just a roller bearing. There's a recess in the front for, I guess, a snap ring, but there wasn't one there. Does it have to be hammered out from the inside? Thanks. Very helpful video. By the way, in another video, to remove the rear housing, a guy partially unscrewed the long bolts then tapped each one to slowly push off the housing. I wish I had seen that before I did mine although mine was stuck good.
Update: I went ahead and punched the seal out from the rear. There was no snap ring, no O-ring. I got the car at 130K miles but I wonder if that's possible if it's the original compressor. I'll just add that just because an ad says a shaft seal is for a Delphi V5 Harrison compressor, double check with the actual part #. The seal I received was 31mm diameter but I need one that is 26mm.
I think a factory reman compressor is looking like my best bet lol. Nice lathe what brand and size is it? Thanks for the detailed video.
Would you have any idea why my V5 would actually not want to fully disengage even when the ignition is off? I checked the gap and have at least .030"? My clutch wants to move towards the pulley instead of spring away from it when the coil is not energized. It creates drag and there is metal shavings collecting underneath and around the edge of the pulley/clutch area. Pulley seems to be solid with no play so I think the bearing is ok too. Ideas?
Good evening, excellent video, I'm Brazilian, I hadn't found a lesson here on how to assemble a Harisson V5. Could you help me with 2 questions. What Tork did you use to tighten the screws? And what product was used on the screw head to help with sealing! Was it some kind of thread lock? Thank you for the video, if you can help me I will be grateful
Great video. I used to be a mechanic in the '70s. I sure wish we had the internet back then. I watched your video because I had just watched a video put out by Scotty. He stated to never buy a rebuilt A/C compressor and I wanted to see why he said that. He hammered apart a compressor to reveal the internals. That compressor was from a Japanese car and based on a design very similar to a rotary engine. Would you advise a compressor like that to be rebuilt?
Thank you fo the video. You really are very knowledgeable. I have two questions. The little manifold you used at the end to do the beach test. Where can I get something like that. And my second question. The resealed my old R4 compressor. It held freon but the clutch will not engage anymore. Would you have any advice for me on that. I put it back the same way it came out. Thank you for any advice.
Hi Robert. As for the test manifold, that was salvaged from a set of A/C lines from a car using this compressor. I threaded it and installed fittings to make a test block.
On your clutch, my guess is that the air gap is too wide for the clutch to pull in. I'm sure you have confirmed voltage at the connector already? Might need to install the clutch hub installation tool again and close up the gap a little bit.
This is by far the best instructional video I've seen. GREAT VIDEO. Thanks for posting....
I have a v5 delphi that I replaced the shaft seal and clutch/pulley assembly. But did not do a complete teardown; and it blows cold (as is did when I first had the "noise" problem) . The noise is a "ratcheting" sound while running and gets faster as engine speed increases. I cannot figure what may be causing that. I thought maybe an internal bearing. You showed the "thrust" tapered roller bearing. If I tear this down is there a "thrust" bearing assembly available. Also you used several oils/grease during assembly. We are warned "don't contaminate the system" clearly you're not concerned with the small quantities of motor Mineral oil.. could the pressure valve be the cause of the "ratcheting" noise?
Thanks! I know that noise you're talking about; and hear it from several different units I've worked on. One of them I dismantled and found nothing out of the ordinary. It seems to be loudest when the compressor is running at lower displacement, such as with low heat load (low fan or not a hot day) or if the charge has partially leaked out.
I've been really busy with other projects, and work, for a year or two now; and haven't had to repair any of these recently. Will look at possible causes of the noise next time I have one apart.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Thanks for a fast reply. This compressor worked flawlessly for 17 yrs; then one day that "ratcheting" noise... still blew ice cold, but did replace worn clutch assembly, shaft seal.. It's blowing cold now but with the noise.. I don't want to have it "go out" and contaminate my system so I don't run it and it's 90+ degrees in FL now. :(
... I changed out 2 new Delphi A5s and both started to rattle after a week... so now I just have my original.. is there a way to tell if my A5 is USA made.? thanks David..
@@babofritz8268 Hi, I really don't know where these were made throughout their production run.
As far as the noise, I've had them go for 3 or 4 years with the ratcheting noise and never get worse. I hope to find a way to remedy this some day. I just don't know what sort of mechanism is making the noise. It may take dismantling of a quiet one and a loud one and making measurements of the parts. But it won't hurt to run it.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Thanks very much for the information. My compressor is not leaking and is holding charge and since I know the shaft seal is new and the clutch assy' is new. I will run it because I get 40 degrees out of the center vent regardless of the ambient temp; almost daily it is 95 degrees here in FLA and the thermometer "still" reads 40 degrees. It's in my Buick Regal 2001 LS with 171K miles.. If I ever do a complete tear down you can be sure your video on the V5 will be up on my computer for quick reference.. thanks so much for the help. Best regards,
Bob
@@davida1hiwaaynet I have the Delphi CVC, a swash-plate (rather than wobble-plate) evolution of the V5 that lacks the pivot bearing, and it makes a groaning/moaning (rather than ratcheting) sound when it's running at the lowest displacement (i use to joke about it that way: i tell people "When i turn AC on, Donna Summer starts playing"). I've just replaced the condenser with a brand new one, taking care of proper oil balance (about 2 oz of oil was required). This has definitely reduced head pressure and suction pressure because even with the correct charge it makes the moaning sound even easier, but it has been doing this for 16 years. Also, driveability seems to have improved a lot, meaning that the head pressure drastically decreased. Also, if you suddenly turn the blower fan to the minimum speed and immediately get out the car, you can hear the compressor going into minimum displacement (the groan gets progressively lower in tone and you actually begin to hear the pistons moving back and forth, but still no ratcheting sound) and, as it does, the condenser fan now suddenly turns off. Yes, reduced charge makes it stay in low displacement even easier. With the V5, since it has the pivot bearing, you also have to be careful to use an oil that is as thick as the Ucon RL488 the OEM uses. PAG Blue and PAG 150 are recommended. Thinner than that and it becomes noisy. With the CVC, instead, PAG 46 for better oil return. That's what i've just used. By the way if you're interested, i can also record the noise i'm talking about.
I have a question that 13 mm nut. That holds the clutch Hub on is that right-handed or left-handed you have some very good videos on this subject
Thanks! The shaft nut is a standard (right-hand) thread on these. I have seen left-hand ones on other compressors but can't remember what the application was.
Dave...Awesome video. So helpful at taking the mystery out of AC compressor rebuild. Question...
I have a Sanden M# V 4692 or Chrysler Pt# 55055540 compressor. Need to R&R prior to my daughter returning to college. Do you think a rebuild for my Sanden compressor is close enough in general practice compared to the GMv5 you rebuilt? Thanks in advance for any advice you can send my way -d
Thanks!
I haven't torn down a Sanden before, but I would assume that it would follow a similar process. I do, however, expect the shaft seal installer tools would be different.
Thanks, Dave.....really like your videos! Blessings to you and your family..-d
What goes bad when loosing compression? What do you have to replace in all of those parts?
Hello, what is the measure of extractor (after the nut of 13mm)? thanks
I've always wondered what was happening inside one of these. Good video. Just curious, where are you located? I'm in Tennessee and I recognize a southern accent. I'm thinking maybe North Alabama?
Links don't work. Do you have the part number for the A/C Delco shaft seal kit? My pump is a Delphi V5 from a 2005 LS1 engine should be same as any other V5 i suppose
What size socket did you use at 54:20 to get the coil on?
If I could I would give 2 thumbs up! Thank you
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
I know this video is 2 years down the road, but I just wanted to say , thank you for making it so detailed and very informative on how a car compressor works and the parts work , and how the rings and seals and the kits that can be bought to rebuild one. In all I want to thank you , I've come to the conclusion , after many years of standing and being told how much a new or rebuilt air conditioner is going to cost me. lol You've opened my eyes as to how many time I've been fucked up the ASS by thieves and down right ASS HOLES in the Air Conditioning business. some time a little seal would be leaking and so the bastard would just look you right in the face and tell you it going to cost you 900 to a 1200 dollars over a fucking 20 cent part in the compressor. lol Well , not anymore , If that happens to me again , God help the POOR BASTARD that pulls that shit on me again. So with out any further Thanks and salutation's YOU"VE gained my respect in what you do. Hell I might even start a little business in my garage helping people with their compressors. For you see I'm not a God DAM Thief like they are in Central Florida.
LOL thanks for the comment! I see you have similar feelings to how I felt when this was all new to me. :)
Oh, and yeah the compressor is still working well after re-sealing it. :)
Thank you for the reply, I have a great deal of respect for Canadians , they are the most honest, pleasant, and friendly people in the world. Thank YOU for the Great Videos, I know what it took to make a good one to show to the public.
@@tomscott1163 Thanks again! Nothing wrong with Canada; but I live just a bit south of there. :-)
lol, no worries mate. :)
. Defeat the entropy!
Show adorei pena que no Brasil ferramentas como essas são muito caras.
Thank you Deivid. It is unfortunate that tools cost so much in Brazil. People in USA are fortunate that we have access to reasonably priced tools.
If I only need to replace the shaft seal is there a simple way to do it??
Thank you for Sharring, The torque force is it 11.6 Pound-force foot or Pound-force Inch ?
11.6 Pound-Foot or 15.7 N-m
Great video, I've encountered one problem. The key in the clutch plate won't allow my install tool to work, because tool won't clear the key. You didn't seem to have an issue with that. The key is removable on my clutch. Maybe remove key install clutch then reinstall key?? Any comments appreciated.
I would install the key in a lower position in the hub. that will allow room for the installer tool to thread onto the shaft.
Базара нет красавчик. Салам из Казахстана.
My research shows 152a is compatible with POE and PAG, so since mine was retrofitted to 134a from R12 using POE, I'll be using POE with the 152a for this old system. POE is compatible with mineral oil (remove as much mineral oil as possible, of course) but PAG is not, and will congeal the mineral oil (so I read).
FWIW... Mineral oil by itself with 152a will trap the oil in the evaporator b/c mineral oil isn't miscible in 152a (same as 134a).
can i use a 99 lesabre compressor in a 2003 lesabre? Some applications say they're the same thing on rockauto, and some say 01-05 is different.
Hi there. I'm not sure about the newer cars such as the 2003 models. There could be a small difference such as the port depth (where the hoses connect) or the electrical connector. Most of these small differences are easily overcome with an adapter harness, or different sealing washers.
As for the leak at the rear of the compressor; the "bolt" thing is actually a pressure safety valve (relief valve). If the refrigerant gas pressure goes higher than about 500 PSI, it will release the refrigerant gas from the system at that point, avoiding an explosion of the hoses. The safety valve screws into the compressor casting and has one small o-ring on its stem where it seals against the back of the compressor.
You'll have to take the refrigerant out of the system first - then you can unscrew the safety valve and change the o-ring. I would put Loctite or Nylog sealant on the threads, to create a backup seal. That way if the surface is nicked or gouged, and the o-ring is not sealing - there is a second sealed area to contain the refrigerant.
hi davida can you tell me where buy tools on line to aa Delphi Harrison V5 A/C Compressor
Try Rock Auto.com
Some ACDelco Replacement units have 4 lugs on the body instead of 3.
+dudeofrare
This is true. I think that all of them used to come with 4 lugs. The original V5 all had 4 lugs, and two pressure switch ports in the back, and smaller bolts (10mm head). The newer model ones have no switch ports, several different lug configurations, and larger bolts. I read somewhere that those larger bolts were an attempt to keep the higher pressures of R134A from causing the housing to "move" due to bolt stretch - and therefore start leaking.
Thankfully, the internal dimensions didn't change so that the same re-seal kits work on them.
cool, you've won a subscriber! Can you please inform me about the screw size and thread of the tool to pull out the pulley and clutch?
Hi Hugo. Thanks for the subscribe! I am currently at work and can't measure the threads. However, this tool would have the proper puller and installers to do this job: www.amazon.com/dp/B01FOQJNPC
+davida1hiwaaynet So, I'm in Brazil unfortunately, I need to make my own tools rsrs ... Here it is very expensive. I need to change the magnet only. If you can measure for me, in your free time, I would appreciate that. Anyway, Thanks dude.
Hi Hugo. Sorry it took a long time for me to reply. The thread size on the end of the shaft (where the shaft nut attaches) is M8x1.25. The thread inside the clutch hub (where the hub remover threads into the hub) is M22x1.50. Hope this helps!
It help me a lot! Thanks man, your channel are amazing!
Thanks, I really appreciate the compliment! Best luck with your car A/C repairs. Not sure what the weather in Brazil is now, but here in Alabama it is almost 100°F (37°C) here and the A/C is very important!
I have Daewoo Nubira 2001 A/C compressor V5, What amount of oil should add to the A/C compressor?
Hi Clinton. All the V5 compressors take 9 ounces of oil, added through the port on the side.
Hi,@@davida1hiwaaynetthank you so much for your advice. I've added 8 ounces to my new compressor did I fill it wrong? please click this and see what I did: www.daewooservice.com/accompressoroilpag46addingoil.htm can you please check and let me know. Thanks
Cool video Dave. I am never ceased to be amazed at your skills. I think the v5 is probably one of the best ac compressors gm ever used with the a6 being a close second. I especially like how the v5 doesn't cycle on and off. I also think the r4 is probably the worst, i have yet to see one that lasted for any length of time. What are your thoughts Dave?
+Paul Carroll
Hi Paul. Thanks for the compliments. I have learned most of what I know the hard way... lets just say I know a lot more ways to do things that DON'T work LOL!
Agreed completely with the A6 and V5 being about the best GM used. They are very similar systems in operating philosophy. The A6 used a flow control valve in the suction line, to regulate the system, whereas the V5 uses the variable capacity compressor mechanism. Both of them were constant-running compressor systems.
The V5 and A6 are both non-cycling systems, but the V5 is much simpler, lighter-weight, and more energy efficient.
Both the A6 and V5 have an internal oil reservoir which makes them very long lived. Also, the V5 has a couple more advantages over the DA6 and R4 compressors. With the DA6 and R4 compressors, the suction gas flow goes directly through the compressor swashplate / crankshaft mechanism to cool and carry oil to it. This is a good idea (in theory) but it causes one bad side effect. When something catastrophic does finally happen to the compressor, the gas flow through the mechanism will ALWAYS carry a massive load of chips, shavings, debris, and other crap all throughout the A/C system.
With the V5 having a separate oil system, the failure will be contained within the swashplate housing with little chance of any large pieces making it to the rest of the system.
Since I buy most of my parts from the junkyard, I look for condenser coils from V5 equipped cars and they are always serviceable with a light flushing to remove the old oil. The ones from the DA6 cars usually are full of debris.
I agree that the R4 is a marginal design. It has quite a few areas inside it which have serious sliding friction and require a very steady flow of lubricant. I have seen more than one which doesn't survive the first can of Freon being charged into it before it is noisy. If you are extremely conscientious about refrigerant charge, and always charge the system with full capacity before starting the compressor, have oil in the dryer, and never run it (not even a minute) with low charge - then it can last a while. But it seems that the first time there's a small leak in the system, the compressor fails from lack of lubrication before the system performance is down enough that the car gets the charge checked.
+davida1hiwaaynet thanks for the tip. If i ever work on an r4 again i will definitely follow your advice.
+davida1hiwaaynet What do you think of the later CVC compressors? Are they any better compared to the V5s and V7s?
My V5 compressor is making a knocking noise from the back of the compressor body. I can even feel it holding a tire iron against it. Oddly it only makes that noise around idle. If i rev the engine just over 1,200 rpm or so, then the noise abates. Comes back as engine returns to idle. I read low refrigerant can cause that but never heard a noise like that before with low R134a. The compressor is less than 3 months old, reman Delphi V5, bought from Rock Auto. Ideas? Sound definitely doesn't sound like it's coming from clutch or front bearing and they spin nicely. Side note, I used Ester oil (150) by mistake instead of PAG when I first installed the compressor, but it seemed like I got away with it. Anyway, reading about Ester afterwards made me think I would be okay as well Ideas what could cause knocking noise from the rear of the compressor? I'd hate to go thru the trouble of draining the Ester for PAG if the knocking returns the same. I will try adding another 12oz if freon to see what that does, but my pressures seem fine....45 low side/250 high side. Ideas about the noise?
Hi. I have noticed this noise from my V5 compressors. It is cause by high pressures on the discharge side, and / or low pressure on the suction side. This can be caused by a weak cooling fan, low refrigerant charge, or the evaporator fan carrying very low airflow through the cold evaporator coil.
I have several cars with V5 compressors which make this noise at idle. It won't affect the life or operation of the compressor.
Some compressors do it more than others. I believe it is caused by some slight wear in the mechanism that is noticeable at low displacements and high pressures. Two of mine have been running for years like this and never get worse and still cool perfectly.
Interesting...I just replaced my compressor and orface tube (but not receiver/dryer since it's only 2 months old) and the noise is still there so there must be something to what you're saying. Sounds terrible like something is about to let go. Could be the evaporator then no doing its job but had a second opinion by my AC guy and he's scratching his head too.
It's really a matter of low-flow / high-pressure conditions. If the evaporator is blocked, it can make a low-flow situation.
Awesome Video... I have a Delphi Compressor partt number 1136582...do you have a kit for it? if so...part number
What part number do you have for the shaft seal kit ?
Hi David; the body seals come in one kit: Santech MT2120
The shaft seal comes in a second kit: SK-741N
can you use white lithium for orings?
I don't know what the compatibility of white lithium grease is, so I would not use it.
@@davida1hiwaaynet ok thank you for your response.
wha kind os silicon and oil you used?
I used a 3M 08946 silicone paste available at a local auto parts shop. The oil for this compressor, when working with HFC-type refrigerants is PAG 150. That's what you use for a system oil charge once the compressor is all back together.
For assembly work, it is better to use mineral oil for assembly lubricant because the PAG oil is very rapidly degraded by air and moisture. The small amount of mineral oil in the system will not cause any problems.
kit o-rings partes, code acdelco?
www.ebay.com/itm/175316262478
KT-V5N is one part number for the V4 with 14mm shaft.
@@davida1hiwaaynet tranks 🙏🏼🔥🔥🔥
يوجد بديل كومبريسر للاولدز موبيل ١٩٩٠
You note that you have to utilize part of another V5 for mounting on a 3800, which I'm working with also (1996 Olds Ninety-Eight). I also picked up a "junk yard" V5 from a long time friend; however, I just found a new old stock Harrison compressor -- Made in the USA! right here in Moraine (Dayton, OH) -- for only $70! BUT case tabs are not correct. Appears it'll mount with the oil fill bolt to the back; BUT I'd have to reposition the coil for the plug to be accessible; and can't tell from pics if the back end would be positioned correctly for the in/out lines. Can the rear housing be rotated as needed? Otherwise, I'm in the same spot you are... disassembling my old one AND the "new" one to make it mount as my original -- OE -- V5. Ironically the "new" old stock unit is labeled as a R-12 unit -- case date is "94". (Mine is 96) Guessing that means I'd also need to change the compensating valve for R-134? I did HVAC work -- still have part of a 30# jug of R-12 for my '78 GMC Motorhome and '73 Olds Toronado, but not sure I want to use it for my '96 Olds 98. The stuff is liquid gold! Thanks!
FYI, the key needs to be put into the shaft keyway -- not the clutch plate keyway. By doing that the puller can be fully screwed onto the shaft threads, with no need to hammer clutch plate on part way. (I do tap it on just enough to know it's aligned and started correctly.) Simply carefully lineup the clutch plate with shaft & key, install puller and pull on to proper clearance ~0.025"
what's the flat rate time on that job?
No idea. I don''t really know where someone would find that information actually. Sorry.
@@davida1hiwaaynet thank you this makes it much easier to sidestep this type of work when a customer looking around on youtube asks us to attempt this, so hopefully it will be a little clearer to move forward with a compressor replacement for a more straightforward, predictable, quality result for the customer. however, i'm definitely going to try this on my own vehicle where i don't have to worry about the angst of a customer if the repair does not go perfectly. this is most helpful for do it yourselfers. thank you.
@@i.jackanov7382 Yeah - this is one of the many reasons I moved away from the automotive field. Dealing with "Internet experts" that cite CZcams videos to try and get you to work for less money definitely sounds like something which would be very common. Thankfully I moved on before the WWW was really a thing.
Be warned, if you haven't been burned already, that new compressors are often not what they are made out to be. I learned long ago that a remanufactured unit; or a unit new FROM THE OEM are the only way to go. Never the "new compressors" sold by the auto parts stores which are not even built to the same design internally as the original was.
This as well as most of my videos are made for a specific audience. This video was produced for the GM A-Body car enthusiast club I am a member of. Many of us would rather spend time as opposed to money; and would prefer a repair such as this.
It takes great attention to detail to successfully tear down and reassemble a compressor. Many will not have what it takes to do this sort of work successfully. It's up to the viewer to see if this is the sort of work they are wanting to undertake. Today's technicians are becoming more of parts exchangers and less of craftsmen. This is a serious problem where once no more new parts are available, there will be nobody who has the skills to refurbish anything; at any cost. Then at that time the battle has been lost for our vintage and antique cars and machinery.
Amigo tenho 67 anos e 50 anos trabalhando de torneiro mecanico em BeloHorizonte minas Gerais brasil a 3 anos faço a reforma das tampas destes compressores os compressores daqui com pouco tempo folga muito onde vai o rolamento , eu acho que e porque a correia dos carros daqui São elasticas e faz muita pressão nas polias oque voce acha 1:02:28
hi , did you ever heard about to block the control valve to get the compressor in total charge and get total eficience . Here in Brazil, the temperature is very hight. thanks.
The problem is, most cars with variable displacement internal control compressors don't have an evaporator temperature sensor so, if you don't, expensively, retrofit some kind of secondary control system (since compressor clutch is often actuated by the engine ECU), the evaporator eventually freezes and ceases cooling while you're driving. You could in theory put a mechanical control valve with a lower destroking pressure threshold in the compressor in place of the default one, but the best way to have cool air at all times is having proper ac service including receiver drier replacement, cleaning the condenser if dirty or replacing it if the fins are worn due to small road debris, replacing the cabin air filter or cleaning the evaporator if there's no cabin air filter in your car, and learning how to properly use climate controls (if you want max cooling, you need to have recirculation on and max blower speed, and if you can't partially recirculate the air by moving the recirculation lever in an intermediate position, because you have a button and not a lever, you need to let fresh air inside from time to time).
Dominique firga
14:56 a vice would be better for that.
nice to know but too much work
Actually, it's not that much work compared to some other repairs that get done far more often. Feel free to buy low quality replacements and rework your A/C system over and over. Then; you are talking about too much work.
Unfortunately, since all worn out compressors have worn out didcharge reeds as well, they won't put out anywhere near the air of a new compressor. Rebuilding a worn out compressor is a foolish waste of time
What makes you think think this compressor is worn out? This video was published in march 2016. It is now June 2020 and the compressor is still working without leaks or loss of cooling.
@@davida1hiwaaynet because any compressor with bad seals will also have bad components as well. Discharge reeds are metal to metal contact points. And once those clearances are exceeded the compressor can't produce factory spec air movement. Now if a rebuild kit provided you with new reeds and housing, then i would agree with you that a compressor overhaul would
be worth it
@@tombdancer As for the reeds and ports on the reed plates; there's only metal to metal contact if there is no oil present. Once that happens, the rest of the compressor is done for and it's obvious that there is no need to consider it for a rebuild.
There are quite a few ways in which seals can fail well before the rest of the compressor is worn out. For instance, some older vehicles still have compressors from the R12 era. The seals in these can shrink and leak once they are devoid of R12 and mineral oil. These seals need changing when using the compressor with HFC refrigerants and their associated oils.
The compressor body o-rings are vulnerable to heat deterioration on V5 units on many applications. People leave the heat shield out between the front exhaust manifold and the compressor, leading to body leaks. This is probably not limited to the V5 units but I haven little experience with other models.
Early GM compressors had single-lip shaft seals which are not the best to begin with; so a dual lip seal is a valuable upgrade. Sometimes people put caustic degreaser on the compressor and spray it around the shaft, causing corrosion in the shaft neck area leading to seal failure.
There are plenty of reasons that a compressor will have external leaks without being "worn out." For you to make a blanket statement like; really indicates a lack of experience.
@@davida1hiwaaynet when a compressor's seals have failed undoubtedly it means internal lubrication has failed as well. Therefore the the internal components have started to fail as well. There is no way around this.
@@tombdancer Again, making blanket statements such as "there is no way around this" is very telling. This is the sort of thing someone fresh out of technical school with no actual real world experience might say. This sort of talk often comes from those with insufficient confidence in their ability to successfully complete a job. They use this to deflect the inadequacy from their own inexperience or lack of skills; and place it on something other than themselves.
A skilled and experienced technician will be able to look at or measure the parts of a device like this and make a reusability determination.