Part 2 - Mid Century Teak Dining Table Restoration: Oxalic Acid - Hard Wax Oil - Wax Polishing
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- čas přidán 17. 05. 2022
- This is the second part to this in-depth Mid Century Teak Table Restoration by Gilboys Furniture Restorers. Following on from the Eco Friendly Paint Stripper Vs Chemical Paint Stripper Test in Part 1. Watch this: • Part 1 - Mid Century T...
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Simon demonstrates a step by step, easy to follow guide, of how to professionally restore a teak dining table. Suitable for all Mid Century brands of furniture including: G-Plan, Nathan, McIntosh, Gordon Russell and of course Danish Mid Century Furniture.
Included within this video is a demonstration of how Gilboys use Oxalic Acid on Oak and Mahogany to revive the original colour and remove stubborn stains. Also demonstrating how to carefully remove individual marks in the wood using a fine detail brush.
Simon then goes on to show how to highlight and revive the faded original darker grain using traditional french polishing techniques.
Another trade secret revealed in this video is how Simon shows how you can use rose gold beeswax polish to help recolour the table and then overcoat it with a second application of the hard wax oil.
And then beeswax polished for a second time with Gilboys rose gold to complete this highly effective natural finish.
Gilboys Furniture Restoration was established in 1994.
Simon Gilboy was apprenticed by Dartington Trust and with the help of the Princes Trust established his furniture restoration business just outside of Totnes in South Devon, UK.
Find out about our Beeswax Polishes: gilboys.co.uk
Video Index
00:05 Introduction - Feature points of the presentation
02:06 Sanding the table with 180 grit foam backed paper
03:43 Using oxalic acid on thin veneer
04:24 Sanding through the veneer
05:02 What does a stitched veneer look like?
06:30 Sourcing a sample piece of oak from the wood store
08:00 Using oxalic acid on oak (buy online:bit.ly/3QZIon9)
11:35 Applying the oxalic acid to the oak
16:36 Stripping the mahogany sample
19:50 applying oxalic acid to mahogany
23:21 Washing soda used as a catalyst with the oxalic acid
24:36 Antique wood veneer compared to modern wood veneer
28:01 Using a fine pencil brush with oxalic acid to spot remove stains and marks
29:20 French polishing the treated mahogany
31:17 Applying shellac with a french polisher's fad
31:54 French Polisher's mop (brush)
31:38 Revealing the French polished mahogany
33:07 Applying a fad of french polish to the treated oak
34:00 Introduction to finishing the teak MCM table
37:20 First application of the natural hard wax oil sealer ( Buy online :bit.ly/3IMIw7l )
44:02 Using an abrasive pad to cut back the sealer
45:30 Introduction to enhancing the grain
48:23 Highlighting the original teak grain
49:48 Timelapse of teak graining
50:25 Graining reveal
51:34 How can you use Gilboys rose gold to add a deeper layer of colour to the teak?
53:00 Applying Gilboys rose gold to enhance the look of the teak
55:11 Timelapse of sealing the table frame
55:45 Buffing the beeswax used to part colour the teak table
56:17 The benefits of using rose gold and applying a second coat of hard wax oil
57:29 Using '0000' steel wool to gently key the surface ready for the second coat of oil
58:48 Using your bare hands to remove particles of fine wire wool
1:00:24 Applying the second coat of hard wax oil
1:02:09 Why do french polishers tuck one arm behind their back?
1:04:07 Why you should use Gilboys rose gold to finish off your table
1:05:21 Applying the final beeswax polish
1:06:20 What's so good about Gilboys beeswax polish?
1:07:50 Buffing the beeswax to a soft sheen finish
1:09:07 Timelapse wax buffing
1:09:20 Tips on wax polishing
1:10:19 The revealed Mid Century Teak Table Finish
1:11:32 Using '0000' steel wool to soften your finished table
1:12:58 A professional finish that anyone can achieve
1:13:45 Summing up the restoration
1:14:16 Before and After
1:14:23 Out-takes left in 🤪 - Jak na to + styl
You have a lifetime of skill my friend, and thank you for sharing this with us all on 'the youtube'!
It has been a joy to watch you! You obviously love your work and I love how you convey this to your audience! Thank you for an excellent video.
Thanks Lizzy
Wow fabulous result, just bought a mid century dining table and chairs I’ll be watching this again and restoring it myself. Great video!
Thank you.
Thank you for making such a brilliant comprehensive video! I have been restoring a g-plan table that I inherited from my grandad and have been following the same process all the way through using your products too! Just have one more coat of hard wax oil to apply and the final polish! Then to think about doing the legs and chairs…
Wonderful. I hope it all goes well for you.
Kind regards
Simon
Excellent two videos, Thank's for the share, the Tablet look's really good now pride of any dinning room, have a nice day and keep them coming !!!.
Thanks Brian. Much appreciated. 🙂
Learned a lot from this video.
This was very helpful. Thank you.
Watching this video may have helped me save our beautiful old bureau. I know this video is 2 years old but I know nothing about waxing. What wax would you finish the mahogany bureau top with please? Would this change if it was a teak veneer? I can't thank you enough for this video!
Excellent work. £25 well spent! I quite like the two-tone effect with the centre, you could tell people it's meant to be like that!
Thanks Charles. 😁
Great result Simon and plenty of tips! I fully agree with your comments on the central leaf - much better to keep the wonderful aged lighter tones.
Thank you. It is possible to do, it would involve industrial applications that we have the ability to apply here in the workshop. But for an instructional, follow along video on CZcams, it is of no help. 🙂
A superb result Simon, and again I have learnt some more techniques and of products to be able to use in my work. I certainly have had excellent results using oxalic acid. However use of soda for neutralising, and also re use of hard wax oil are both new to me, but really helpful.
Thanks David. 🙂
Phew so glad I stumbled across your content...that electric sander is back in the box before I tackle the G plan table.
Thank you for taking the time putting this tutorial together - it was really interesting and informative! Bonus points for the sly "Dad joke" included....*rugbee" LOL 😛 Stay safe!
on the u tube very informative, thank you.
Thank you
Thank you so much for all of your videos. I have learnt a lot. Just thought I would add a comment as I have use the oxalate acid technique in this video with mixed results.
I was stripping and re-finishing my internal hollow core veneer doors. The the substrate was plywood. It worked brilliantly and they came up like new.
I then tried it on my mid century occasional tables. They were in a really bad state with lots of watermarks. Unfortunately, the moisture of the oxalic acid expanded the chipboard substrate and totally ruined the tables. I thought initially that this may have been because the previous owner had sanded the veneer very thin, but it appears that the veneer on the underside had never been touched and the chipboard also expanded here as well. I was very quick with the exilic acid. Literally applying it and then wiping it all off with lots of paper towel as I was concerned about any swelling and then I tried quickly with a hairdryer. I could not have been quicker. It’s a shame because it remove all water marks.
Take 2... Take 3.... So natural and un-scripted 😁We know what you mean. Thanks team.
Thanks Peter. ☺️
I'd be a bit concerned about repeatedly saturating veneered furniture; you can probably get away with it on some thick cut (like in the video), but thin veneer is likely to start lifting as the glue softens. I've used Oxalic very successfully to remove ink and iron stains, to the degree where they have been completely removed, somewhat mixed results with 'spot' bleaching, can look patchy, and have done as you did: worked the bad areas hard, and then do the whole area (albeit less liberally with the liquids). Enjoyable video, production values have greatly improved from your early ones; thanks to you and your team's hard work.
Thanks Alec.
That’s very kind of you. 🙂.
Although having witnessed the process that is used to stick the veneers down (on an industrial basis.) They are not reversible. The glues used will not ‘let go’. Unlike the traditional hide or scotch glue. 😀
As an apprentice in the 80’s. I would watch multiple 5ft x 3ft tables having veneer forced upon the chipboard under huge pressure on a heated, layered veneer press.
It was like a multiple layer cake. 😃
Great video thanks! When I sealed my table I have lighter patches around the edge of the table - is this because I’ve sanded too hard on the edges? Or not enough? How do you make sure you sand evenly? Would appreciate your thoughts.
Hi Simon, I followed your instructions and got a really lovely result on my teak mid century table. Only problem is, someone (who will reamin nameless) put a hot pyrex dish on it and I now have a dark round patch. What can I do to get rid of it please?
I have applied 5 coats of polymerized Tung oil mixed with mineral spirits on teak table. I have used oxalic acid on dark cup ring and all of table. The ring is showing through now as light grey. Would like to send pic but not sure if I can. What has happened? It has been curing for over a week now.
Amazing job. Just question, how come you can put hardwax oil over wax? Like Osmo, they say just on bare wood and wax needs to be removed. And they don't recommend put wax on the top of hardwax oil, because wax is too soft for doing that. So we can use hardwax oil over the wax? I'm a bit confused. Thank you
Is there an alternative for oxalic acid that you’d have in your kitchen? Would Pickling vinegar work?
Hello, great video. Do you have a list of the products you used please? I'm interested in which eco stripper you used. Thanks
Thank you.
I used a stripper called
'home strip paint and varnish remover'
I hope you have success.
Best wishes
Simon
Controversial perhaps .Is it possible to whiten and white wash a G Plan item? I love the shape of an item but not the orange colour. What would be the process, if its possible?
Simon the hard wax oil that you used is that yours with added oils or just straight from the can? The hand behind your back thing ive always done it jus came naturally.
Fascinating, the colour of that piece of mahogany was beautiful. I’m a fan of mahogany furniture. None of the modern stuff for me!
"Don't mix them up" says the man who just used his oxalic acidy spoon to stick into the bag and scoop out sody bic. 🤣🤣🤣 Loving your work but if you worked in my lab I'd have smacked the back of your hand! 😍
😅 it’s a good job I only work with wood and not in a laboratory! 🤓
@@GilboysRestoration horses for courses. If you watched me using/abusing your fabulous products you would beat me round the head with a mahogany side panel!!! Thankfully the Furniture Polishing Starter Kit does most of the work all by itself. I've become a raving zealot about your polish! 🤣
@@bettybutterbean5759 😆You've made my Friday! 🤣Thank you.
@@bettybutterbean5759 I also shudder to think what Simon would make of my novice efforts, however I agree that even in novice hands Gilboys products really do seem to work well. I've spent years trying various wax finishes and have always been disappointed, but after just two days using the Gilboys wax polish starter kit the results are absolutely superb. I think I've just become the latest zealot supporter! :)
Is methylated spirits the same as mineral spirits? What’s the ratio of the shellac and methylated spirit mix to use as your pigment carrier? This is exactly the missing piece of intimation I needed for my Lane Acclaim table m
Rugbee, I love the joke!😂
Good spot Nick. 😅
@@GilboysRestoration good work
Sorry I'm a little bit confused you said you have to seal a table top first before you wax it. Which is fine I've had the problem of waxing directly and all the effects that you mentioned getting rings on it etc discoloring is exactly what I got so how do I seal it? You said don't use wax then you proceed to use a mixture of oil and wax so I'm a tiny bit confused. I presume I can just buy some kind of wood sealant product I don't have to mix up my own like you because I'm not a professional and all I want to treat is a small kitchen table. What would you advize?
Hi khasab.
The oil sealer is a liquid hard wax oil. There are many on the market. When I say don't just use wax. I mean exactly that. But using a blended oil sealer, that has a small amount of natural waxes added, works brilliantly as a sealer, which then can be paste wax polished after.
I hope this helps you.
Thanks for watching
Simon
@@GilboysRestoration yes that does help a lot thanks. I know very little about this area so I had to ask just to get that cleared up in my head.
@@GilboysRestoration could worktop oil be used as a sealant.? I bought the exact same table, your video was such a joy to watch. Thank you!
The colour is wrong it looks orange not teak. I would have put a stain over it then sealed it. Otherwise I enjoyed and respect your work.
Great video thanks! When I sealed my table I have lighter patches around the edge of the table - is this because I’ve sanded too hard on the edges? Or not enough? How do you make sure you sand evenly? Would appreciate your thoughts.