How To Restore a G-Plan Nest of Tables (Mid-Century Teak Furniture)
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- čas přidán 28. 12. 2020
- English antique furniture restorer Simon Gilboy demonstrates how to strip and restore a nest of mid-century teak coffee tables made by G-Plan. These techniques also apply to similar furniture from Nathan, Ercol, McIntosh and Parker-Knoll.
This comprehensive guide follows Simon's restoration process closely as he demonstrates and explains each stage in detail.
00:38 Materials you will need
03:32 Stripping process
11:58 3rd Strip - Stripping Dry
17:00 Sanding the surface
21:26 What a veneer looks like
23:26 Vacuum off the dust
23:32 Neutralising the surface
26:28 Steaming dents out
29:24 Sanding with 180 grit
31:04 Applying hard wax oil ( Buy online :bit.ly/3IMIw7l )
35:50 Applying wax polish
40:32 Buffing the finish
43:17 Using dry '0000' to 'even' the finish
45:39 How to look after your new finish
As antique furniture restorers we searched for years and years to find a furniture polish that would meet our quality requirements. Ultimately we created the very best possible furniture polish ourselves using only the finest natural ingredients responsibly sourced. We've made it available to buy in 100% plastic-free packaging and implemented a discounted Return & Refill scheme with reusable LeParfait air-tight jars. Every order includes complimentary sweet pea seeds for you to plant and grow as a 'Thank you' to the hard-working bees.
* Unfortunately we are unable to include our complimentary sweet pea seeds for USA customers due to FDA restrictions.
Find out more about our beeswax polishes on our website: bit.ly/2M6HWG7
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"Don't be shy with stripper" life advice noted! 🤣
Thanks so much for this! It was so helpful in guiding me through the restoration of an old Gplan sideboard I have, which has come up beautifully!
Thank you for making this! I wish I'd found you earlier, preferably before I gave away a beautiful teak table I inherited by my passed grandmother. Luckily, I still have a teak shelf I will try to follow your guide to restore once summer allows it in Northern Norway.
Wonderful, Let us know how you get on. 🙂
Top job.
Fantastic video. Really great to see a professional craftsman showing the process from start to finish. I taken many tips from this. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Lee.
Me moving danish oil
I smile as you explain and show the process because, not only is it a pleasure to watch you work, but because you seem to enjoy the process too...I've just recently started cleaning and "restoring" the very basic of my home furniture...unfortunately here in the South of Spain I don't find most of the products you use or mention...I'd have to purchase via internet and obviously the costs are very high, so I have to work my way around...such great video tutorials...you explain and teach beautifully...so glad I found your YT channel!
Thank you 🙂
thanks so much for this. I have an egon/egan(?) gplan coffee table that needs this doing.
Thank you for such an informative video, I have just purchased your wax because of this video!
Hi David. Thank you. I Hope you like it!
Your video is extremely helpful. Thank you 🙂
You're welcome.
Great interesting video, Thank's for the share have a great 2021 and Stay Safe you Guy's !!!.
Thank you Brian. 🙂 Wishing you and all your friends a safe 2021.. Fingers crossed for the end of Coronavirus.
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
I just bought from you the Pure Gold Beeswax Polishing kit that I will be using on my GPlan dinning table.
I have used a water based stripper bought from a DIY shop (had to use it 4x), but I found that I could not sand straight away... I am following your video and the guide on your webpage to the letter, so hopefully my dinning table will look amazing!😊
Hi Marlene.
I hope it all works well for you. I know the water based stripper is a bit of a pain.
Keep going and don't rush the preparation. I'm sure you'll have success.
Best wishes
Simon
Hi Simon, will do. Thanks!
Your polishing kit just arrived this morning and it’s absolutely beautiful! I already tried the Pure Gold Beewax on another piece of furniture and it looks really nice! Thank you!😊
Thank you for this video
Thank you
Fantastic video! Very informative. Any recommendations on specific products/brands to use?
Great video thank you. I have a set of Mid-Century Danish teak nested tables and wondered what finish I could use to make them resistant to water spills (or beer on my partners side).
Hi Wendy. The finish i demonstrate in this video has so far proved to be very resilient. I restored my parents Nathan dining table in exactly the same way and theres no sign of any water marking. It's a very tough natural finish 🙂
He knows exactly what he is doing, what you can do, what you should do. To me, he is a magician and the product is equally magical. That’s apart from his ability to sell coal to Newcastle. 🤩 💐💐
Thanks Gwen. Thats very kind of you. 😌
Great video - very helpful to see this process, thank you! One question: What is required to clean the surface after the 180 grit sand, before applying the hardwax oil? Is just a vacuum sufficient for removing all the dust prior to sealing? Thanks again!
Hi Patrick.
Yes, just a vacuum is fine, no need for anything else. You need a clean, dry surface. ('clean' in this context means no residual old finish or unwanted imperfections) 😁
Hi Simon, a nother fantastic and informative video. I'm currently trying to strip paint and a white primer off a gplan fresco long boys doors. The problem I'm up against is that the primer is in the grain, I'm away to do my 3rd strip, tbh I'm not hopeful about getting rid of the primer. If I were to use a tinted hard wax oil do you think that it would be enough to cover the tiny flecks of white? If not could you recommend a solution? Many thanks, Matt.
Excellent video, I learnt so much leaning from you and I take inspiration from your devotion to to restore treasured furniture with the finest technique. I have followed your advice to restore a teak table and it looks wonderful. I have three kids and I want to increase the protection of the tabletop, is there any material I can add (thinking lacquer?) to avoid marks and discolouring without changing too much the aesthetics of the table?
If you are using hard wax oils as I do. I would advise giving two or three coats (waiting a day between each)
In my experience they are very hard wearing. I've just been applying the same finish to our local pub restaurant tables.
And you know how much abuse and wear they get on a daily basis.. They are holding up to the task well. ✅
Can go straight to staining, I have a g plan dressing table in perfect condition passed to me from my mum, I would really like to darken it to a more rustic brown to match other bedroom furniture. Thanks in advance.
Nice to hear the old chap enjoyed the stripper.
😁
wonderful video - thank you! So satisfying to watch.
Would this technique work on what I believe is a rosewood veneer mid century dining table? The surface is very badly damaged also with white heat marks. Should I try to fix this first?? Was thinking heat treatment. The table is very cheap, very unloved but maybe it could be beautiful again. I’m just a beginner, never tackled anything like this before! Thanks for any advice you might have for me :)
Hi Lisa
I'm sorry I missed your question. You have probably finished the job by now, but if you haven't: YES this technique will work wonderfully in many situations. Be careful when sanding rosewood veneer as it will darken very quickly. Only sand if really there is no other option. When it comes to rosewood I would always advise stripping back the three times as I demonstrate here and then skipping the sanding part, moving straight on to the sealing and finishing. (waiting a day in between).
I hope this helps.
kind regards
Simon
Great video and very informative. I've just bought some of your polish so hoping to have a go on a mid century extending dining table I have just acquired. The top isn't in great shape but the extending part has never been used. Would you strip both parts down? Another question is there is a rather large scratch in the leg how would you go about fixing this please? Thanks
Hi Rebecca. Thank you for buying our polish.
You could try the polish on the top before you strip so you can see the effect it has. It may be just what you want? If not you can go ahead and strip the surfaces. It's not as if it's going to take more than twenty minutes or so to find out.
If stripping: I would strip all the horizontal surfaces. The butterfly leaf as well as the two sliding leaves.
I would be tempted to strip and sand the legs also if there is a large scratch in one. It really won't take that much extra effort to do so. 🙂
I hope you have success.
Kind regards
Simon
Hello from Barcelona! Superb video, thank you very much.
Would you follow the same procedure for a dining table with kids in the family? Or maybe a different finish? Thanks
Yes I would apply the same finish to a dining table.
Take a look here.. czcams.com/video/Ffkng0Q2XUk/video.html
Hi there, would this process get rid of water stains and ring marks? Also, I've got some pretty badly sun bleached (unevenly) g plan dressers, would this process even that out? Thanks for the great video
Should I use wood polish(oil) on the furniture have mother of pearl inlay? Making the connect between wood and mother of pearl inlay are break?
Thanks
Hello, great video. Are you able to recommend an ‘off the shelf’ stripper to use in furniture restoration? Thanks
Hi Steve. We use Paramose. But I'm not sure how good the water based one works.
Nice video thanks! Will this technique get rid of stains on the top of a G-plan table eg. small circular stains which have probably come from overly hot teacups etc?
Hi Stephen. Yes it will do. ✅
@Gilboys, great video, thank you. Can you recommend a place to buy coarse wire wool?
Hi Paul
Thank you.
Sorry, we buy ours through the trade suppliers. I think I was using grade 3 wire wool. Sometimes the grade 4 is too coarse. 🙂
Thanks so much for this video. just purchased some of your polish. I have a question about Hardwax oil, which colour/finish do you typically use on mid century teak furniture? I have a few veneered teak pieces I want too restore, so looking to buy one oil to do them all. I heard you mention in the video 'Soft Satin' is that just a natural coloured oil with a soft satin finish? Some brands such as Liberon offer a 'Teak' colour. Basically i'm a bit confused as to what kind I would need to achieve the best results, a plain natural hard wax oil or a specific coloured one such as teak?
Hi, Thank you for buying our polish. I would use a clear hardwax oil with a satin finish. ( This will give you a very similar finish to the original) It will work best on your teak furniture. There should be no need to use a coloured one.
Let me know ho you get on.
Best wishes
Simon
These videos re so great, thank you! Can I ask what brand of stripper you use please? I have a fee Ercol chairs to get started with! Then onto my G-plan tables. I'll order some of your rose gold for the finish :)
Hi George. You can use any of the strippers that are available on the market right now, they should all work well.
The one I was using was an industrial one which is not available to the public.
I hope you have success with our polishes.
Kind regards
Simon
Thankyou, very interesting. Can't wait to start my project🙂. Is it OK to use pledge or similar to clean once it's all stripped, sanded, waxed? Apologies if a daft question! 😊
Hi Kate. PLEDGE!!! 👀 😆. No don't use any spray polishes, they will break down the wax polish if used regularly. I would just wipe the surface with a damp cloth and buff it occasionally. I hope it all goes well for you. 🙂
Kind regards
Simon
@@GilboysRestoration thanks, for advice😊
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. Which hardwax oil did you use?
Hi Rasaki. There are many on the market that perform very much in the same way. eg Osmo - Treatex - Liberon. I personally like using a satin finish. 🙂
This is a great video. Thanks for posting. I am following your process but having applied stripper three times I can now see a couple of what I’m assuming are watermarks. I have used the 180 to sand but wonder if I’m being too gentle with the sanding? Along with others I’m terrified of going through the veneer😊. It’s a g plan coffee table. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hi Maria. You can sand it quite hard. Don't be afraid. As long you do so evenly, you will be surprised at how much sanding you can do. I have often sanded with 120 grit and then up through to 180. get stuck in. ✅
@@GilboysRestoration thanks very much. That gives me a bit of confidence. 😊
Thank you for such an informative video! Which hardwax oil would you recommend? I live in Spain. Thank you
Hi Chynizara
Osmo Oil Clear Satin.
Great videos! I'm doing some furniture resturation at home and use your videos as quidence. Right now i'm restoring an old and pretty big teak cabinet. However i've met a setback. The previous owner painted it several years ago all white for some reason. I have stripped all the paint off it, but all over i see theese white marks or "stripes" inside the wood. Inbetween the fibers if you will.
There is a lot og veneer, and i dont think i can sand deep enough to get rid of theese stripes without risking going through the veneer.
Do you have any tricks up your sleeve with this kind of problem?
Hi Rolf. Did you use a stripper to get the paint off? The small flecks of paint in the grain should scrub out with the coarse wire wool in combination with the stripper. Teak has a very tight, close grain which also sands quite nicely. Does it not come out with hard block sanding using 120 grit paper?
@@GilboysRestoration I did use a stripper and wire wool. I have also sanded with 120 paper to the point i dont really want to sand more because i'm afraid i will sand through the veneer 😅
Hi, great video. I am about to restore a lot of teak fitted furniture in the cabin of a 1970s boat. Some solid, some veneer.
Would waxing be appropriate in that environment or should I use varnish which seems to be the conventional finish is boats?
Many thanks
Steve
Hi Steve.
can you send me some images of the boat interior and I'll try and help you. ✅
Best wishes
Simon
Hi Simon, I’m about to restore a solid teak Cadovius wall unit, the problem is water marks. Can I avoid stripping and just sand? After sanding which of your products do I finish with? With solid teak is it ok to use an orbital sander? Also, it has years of nicotine on it, do I lightly clean it with Methelated spirit? I have your hard wax oil, smooth satin, clear, should I use this to finish?
Hi, this was really informative. Is there anything you can recommend to tone down the orange of teak a little, comcerned aboit miximg stain and hard wax oil and having it come off
Hi. In the workshop we would use a green stain which would be in the form of a spirit colour or stain.
It has to be used with the greatest of care as it could easily look a mess. It has to be heavily diluted to be effective.
As with most things in the world of a French Polisher, sparingly is the keyword. 🙂
@@GilboysRestoration thank you!
Hello, I’m using PSA teak veneer to repair an old end table. Can I then use the hard wax oil or will it break down the adhesive underneath?
Sorry for the late reply.
Yes you can use the hard wax oil. The secret to using it, I have found, is applying it and then wiping off all the excess so there is no residue left behind. It dries very quickly and has no chance to penetrate any deeper into the wood.
I have used this method on my veneered oak doors at home with great success. 🙂
Would you use chemical stripper or a mechanical card stripper tool; thanks
Hi Mike.
I almost always will opt for a liquid stripper. ✅
hi Simon. I'm re-doing a couple of old, perhaps antique, rocking chairs. There are places where there is really little / no finish left, and then there are places where the finish is not in bad shape at all. How would you approach this project and which of your products should I buy?
Hi BCj725.
Could you send over a few images of the chairs to enquiries@gilboys.co.uk. I can give better advice if I can see them. 🙂
Many thanks. Simon
Will do, Simon. Thank you kindly
Wool
I just purchased your rose gold kit for a set of small g plan nesting tables I bought second hand. They’re in pretty bad nick - water marks and scratches and on one a large mark which looks like it’s been done by a plant pot that has removed entirely whatever finish was on there and left some black stain. Would you do anything differently if your tables were in this condition? Should this process remove most of those marks?
Hi Kim
Thank you for buying the kit. Furniture repair and restoration can be a case of performing one process and then reassessing.
The first thing to do is strip the remaining finish off back to the bare wood and sand it. You will discover that the majority of marks and imperfections will go during this process.
If the black mark is still visible you can try treating it with an oxalic acid.
You can see me using it here: czcams.com/video/n8HBaTEaAuI/video.html
(Sorry about the annoying background music)
You may need to treat the area a number of times and then sand it again, always being mindful you have a veneer, but also don't be frightened by it. You can sand it quite hard.
Then once you are happy you have removed the black mark or at least made it less obvious you can proceed with the finishing process.
I hope this helps.
Best wishes
Simon
Hi. Great video, thanks for sharing. I have learnt a lot from this tutorial. Can I ask a question please? I have a nest of three tables, fresco range G Plan. I have sanded the tops down to the bare wood. My plan is to chalk paint the legs and then wax them. I also thought I might add some chalk paint to table tops? If I was to use your waxes for the tops, would this be ok over the chalk paint? It would be Annie Sloan chalk paint. Many thanks, Nicky
Hi Nicky. Yes you can use our polishes over chalk paint. Let me know how you get on. 🙂
Nice way to ruin them. You just spent time and work devaluing them.
Excellent video. I am looking to buy a LIBRENZA from G plan. Do you have any videos on that? What products do I need to restauration of that?
Hi Peter.
Sorry I haven't done any videos with G-Plan Librenza. I'll have a look at them to see if we may do one in the future.
Kind regards
Simon
is osmo polysix oil a suitable hardwax?
Hi Robert.
Yes, perfect for this. ✅
@@GilboysRestoration thanks for the swift reply 👍
Stripper? I barely know her
🤪
Why is your intro outro and segway so loud
'"Mid-Century" not quite the middle of the century
Umm. 🧐
@@GilboysRestoration they don't appear to have been produced in the middle of the century looking at that label in reality, people seem to use the term "mid-century" far to frequently to refer to anything G-plan, Ercol or any of the other most common brands. What I will say is that you make for an interesting watch offering useful advice.
If the base doesn’t need to be stripped, don’t waste your time.
Yes I agree. But on small coffee tables like these you might as well do it all. 🙂
you destroyed a beutifull piece__________ what was wrong with it!
I'm hoping you are referring to the single table? Which I used to demonstrate to people how thin the veneer is and the fact its made from chipboard. Which I hope will help people with their restoration projects. 🙂
@@GilboysRestoration sorry I didn't finish the full video, I think your camera angle kinda through me off. Going to watch some more. You never showed the top and what was wrong with it at the start of the vid.
Annoying too much chat