Over time my cetus motors got hotter and hotter during operation, eventually chewing filament after the raft without fail. They should just ditch the proprietary stuff, the market won't tolerate that anymore.
Did a very similar mod with a colleague's DaVinci 3D printer, and he was SO glad to be finally able to use open source software, any slicer and any filament he wanted.
This is one of the things I love about 3D printing as a tinkerers' hobby, the mechanical principles are comparatively simple (if you got four motors and parts for those motors to move, you've got the basics) and the software side is so open that you can get pretty much everything that can command stepper motors and relays to run gcode. (I'm oversimplifying a bit, but really, for something that creates physical objects, 3D printers are incredibly easy to understand even for idiots like myself. Like, for comparison I don't think building your own injection molding machine is anywhere near as simple.) I got into things with the Ender3, and after tinkering with it for two years I think the only stock components that remain are the aluminium frame and motors xD
What a coincidence! A week ago I completed the electronics conversion of my MK2. I did it with an arduino mega + ramps 1.6 + TMC 2130 + raspberry PI 3 so that I could go with klipper. I didn't want to replace the very cool PT100 thermocouple for a shitty thermistor, so I went for a max31865 SPI adapter board. I also upped the voltage to 24 V as running the heating cartridge at the standard 19V was a pain. Now it is a pretty amazing machine!
I did something very similar on my MK1 last week too. Lol. I used an mks robin nano v3 with tmc 2209 drivers. It's got a touch screen and wifi but the screen is too big to mount anywhere on the cetus. What power supply did you go with? My heated bed is super weak on 19v. It draws 30w. I did the math and going to 24v should get it closer to 60w. Unfortunately, I did have to ditch the pt100 because it failed and I opted to replace the entire extruder/hotend. I ended up going with the kp3s titan extruder. It performs great and now I just use standard mk8 nozzles. Last night I put a 3d touch on it, so no more frustrating warped build plate.
@@inoahmann7542 For the time being I am running it from my lab bench PSU and I have a step down converter for the RPI, Arduino and fan. With everything powered it draws about 3.2~3.5 A @ 24 V so I was thinking about getting an EPP-120S-24 PSU, which has a very small footprint. There are also more powerful (but larger) versions if you want to plug the heating bed.
@@urano1988 thanks! I think I'll go with that same power supply. Maybe a slightly bigger one if I can still fit it in my electronics enclosure. If I need to I can limit the power to my hotend and bed to stay under the 120w limit.
I currently upgrading my Cetus MKII and MKIII I replace the Cetus extruder to BIQU H2 extruder. I also replace the TinyFab MCU/mainboard to Melow FLY RRF E3 Pro with the integrated max31865 SPI PT100 IC. And because of the shorter heater cartridge for BIQU H2 extruder I use a Mellow 24V 70W heater, and increase the voltage from 19V to 24V. And I will also design an extra PCB for the PSU connector and for the Z axes hardware break by a relay. This feature is on the MKIII mainboard and also designed in the TinyFab mainboards as well.
Original cetus circuit board had a vase gcode bug. I think they implemented vase as delta Z moves but the firmware math truncated the remainders. Now running duet and happy. A good mod is a 1kg force linear spring ($8-20) to counterbalance Z weight which eliminates the Z stepper brake and prevents the nozzle from crashing into my heated glass bed with no AC power.. Cheers-Peter
Thanks for this video. Nice to see theat you transformed your Cetus into a good machine. I use a Fly 3 pro on my Ender 3v2. Ik like it a lot. No more recompilations of the firmware when I do a slight modification of the hardware. No extra Raspberry with Octoprint which doubles the amount of complications. I love this solution. Please remember to change the gcode dialect in your favourite slicer from Marlin to Reprap. ;)
Does it work with a BL touch or CR touch? As I learned more about my E3 V2 I realized I can turn it into a really nice printer instead of buying a different one. My CR touch and Jyers firmware is a joy. I like the options this fly 3 adds. I'm also a minimalist. Any hardware I can install that will do the work of multiple pieces of hardware, I'm all for.
MJF is superior in z-axis strength and consistency to SLS and is superior in every way besides specialized material availability. I own two 5210 MJF machines and would be happy to provide CNC Kitchen some parts for testing!
Hi @CNC Kitchen, Pronterface can also transfer small letters by adding ' in front of a letter. P'A'S'S'W'O'R'D is Password. That is not quite as convenient but for once entering a Hotspot and Password...
Yes please! I'd really enjoy seeing a CNC style strength test! Your strength test videos are some of my favorite videos! If you need a suggestion on videos series please also consider doing a resin accuracy and strength test for msla! Lots of resin are for sale but not many engineers test them. Having a series for people that want to use them for engineering products would really be helpful.
Haven't tried the fly boards myself but I'm on the Mellow discord server and there's tons of good-spirit community activity and _very_ active engagement from Mellow themselves on these fly boards, troubleshooting, iterative improvements and custom versions etc. So I wouldn't worry about these boards getting deprecated anytime soon, their adoptation is likely gonna spread, along with more firmware development and new forks. I'm not too big on speaking about these kinds of companies, I find they often disappoint in some way. But I gotta be honest - Mellow's community engagement and openness to community feedback and suggestions has me softening a bit. They even have a dedicated discord channel for suggestions 😊 And funnily enough, my last two suggestions pretty much both got the same replies (within roughly 20 minutes): "already in design" and "already in development".
My SKR Mini E3 broke and I was ready to buy a Robin mainboard and then suddenly I came across this video. What a perfect coincidence! Now I'm waiting for my Mellow Fly and before watching this I didn't even know it was a thing :)
Perfect for my Printrbot Simple metal, it's gathering dust for a while now, which is sad ... a board like this would bring some well deserved life back into it :)
I’m glad more boards are starting to use reprap firmware and isn’t limited to duet boards only anymore especially since duet boards always seem to be pretty big and expensive since your usually paying for a bunch of features you don’t need
Open source is best source! I do like the replaceable drivers, but I would be lying if I said I ever replaced one before, never needed to! lol. Love that RRF is implementing klipper systems as klipper is honestly a pain in the butt :/ Glad this worked out, will have to try it out on one of our machines!
is that a typo/error at 4:30 where (after telling that linear advanced is also available) you say that even linear advance will be available and can reduce ghosting. I think you meant input shaping instead of linear advanced in that moment, right? Grüße aus NRW
The PCB design isn't a whole lot of work, tbh. As Peter says above, RRF is the real star here. The time invested into RRF development will probably be hundreds of times that of the Mellow PCB - which is why it's a bit of a shame that the RRF devs likely aren't supported by purchases of these boards... (I suspect a significant chunk of the Duet boards' prices goes towards firmware development, hence the higher prices.)
Nice to see RRF ❤️. I use RRF on my machines and adore this firmware. One board, easy config and decent features.... Did I mention very stable as well?
I liked RRF but the problem for me is that if something doesn't work, the support for it is as useless as windows support. Switched my duet board to Klipper and never looked back since
@@jexom I've honestly been able to find documentation for everything I've ever had issues with. The wiki pages are pretty well written. Though I gotta admit having stuff like a discord server for the vorons which usually run klipper is pretty sweet.
If I ever need q&a for a custom board I know who to send a free one to! Seriously, great video and now I'm more convinced than ever to buy an $80 printer on Bangood and just swap out the mobo and start printing.
Will you consider reviewing the Phaetus (or rebranded as Trianglelabs) _'Rapido'_ UHF hotend? It's a high-volume, quality workmanship, mostly nickel-plated copper unit with strong construction and a (up to) 115 watt ceramic heater, that give even the Mosquito Magnum Plus and Supervolcano a run for their money. And it does so while still using the regular M6 reprap/V6 nozzles we already have, or optionally regular Volcano nozzles. Slap a large CHT or Matchless nozzle on that puppy and it might just pass 100mm^3/s. For $99. I believe the... "contentious" (?) aspects are more than different enough that this one goes clear of Slice's and E3D's patents.
I just did this with a Dobot Mooz, I used a BTT E3 RRF board, it can now print any material, much better printer than the Cetus, but had a terrible main board and closed software.
I had a reverse experience at work. When I built my machine, I built it from the ground up with TMC2208s, and later upgraded to closed loop steppers (the BTT NEMA 17s, great stuff). They're really quiet, became a "silent but the fans" printer. No money for Noctuas here. Then at work I was tasked to revive an old small CNC router, and found an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 setup with the classic A4988s there that I could use, and heck that thing screams, I had no idea they were that loud normally.
Awesome.. This is a great video.. I currently have a smoothie board running my Cetus. But I will try this one soon.. BTW the original cetus heater block uses Pt100 as temp sensor. The pro version has a variant supporting pt100 so chose that if you don't want to switch original temp sensor
The MJF is interesting, i've used JLC a few times for PCB's but if i want stuff like the Orbiter/Sherpa mini etc i can now actually get it printed without buying an entire new extruder, since i have an Orbiter and would like to test the Sherpa mini that could be useful..
I wish I had a Cetus! :) (but I already have an RRF Fly 3 board that I'm going to put into my very old and crappy Delta printer! And I expect a lot from it!).
"I'm sure many of you have an old 3D printer in a corner [...]" Bro when I started watching this channel I didn't even have _one_ let alone some old one gathering dust! And now I just have one as well...
Nice video, this might be a mod I'll actually try. At the moment the only mods applied to my cetus is a new 80mm Noctua Extruder/Part Cooling fan + adapter, because the stock one was really uncomfortably loud. Although I'm okay with the prints I'm getting out, using something different than the proprietary UPStudio Slicer (which I dislike) with added microstepping capabilities would make this upgrade really worth the effort. Anyway, thanks for sharing :)
2:57 I don't think I've heard "proprietary" pronounced that way before. I usually hear it as "pro-pry-a-tree" or "pro-pry-a-terry", with emphasis on the "pry".
There are a few time where you say "linear advance" instead or "resonance compensation" or "input shaping" at least one was obvious in context but from then I was wondering whether you meant linear advance or not each time you said it.
Hi, i got an UpBox+ and i want to do a board swap with a bigtreetech... I want to use a proper slicer, gcodes, add a screen and a card reader and even change the extruder assembly because i hate the tiertime's as it is... Can someone give me some hints?
I have one of the pro boards in my ender 3 pro and in my opinion made a night and day difference in performance. I bounce between RRF and Klipper on it for testing and playing around. Also yay I saw my GCode Viewer on the video :D
@@CNCKitchen I have been messing with it all day. Unfortunately, I have MK2 and you started with a MK3. So there are some variances like trying to get sensorless homing working. I also switched from using the standard hotend to a Slice Copperhead.
Haven't started a print, but I have about 90%+ of the printer verified working. Last thing is swapping the sensorless homing with a capacitive proximity sensor for the Z axis.
i would not get a board that runs rrf. i go fpr the genuine duet boards. after all problems i had with marlin back in the days and almost quit the hobby i ordered a duet wifi. and the support i got from dc42 made me a returning customer. all my printers my custom built voron/hevort hybrid. my tridebt idex. and my ender 3 and flsun sr all run duet boards and i think its worth to support the duet crew
I'm a klipper fan, I think its great software. And sure I was a little sad Tom decided not to use it on his voron. But then the way the klipper fanboys harrased tom and most likely pushed him away from klipper for good really makes me angry. I just hate it when a few loud idiots ruin a good thing for everyone else.
@@jamesmelemede5610 reread your comment but slowly, all your hate is going towards a person with his own opinion. you are going all out on Domenico and even pull in Thomas (who even isnt even mentioned except for your comment) really great job of not putting the klipper community in a bad light really really great job.
What is the difference between RepRap firmware and Marlin? I have an ANET A6 which I de-gutted and replaced their main board with an Arduino 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin. I didn't like their firmware and also the stepper drivers were soldered on the main board. That was a deal breaker for me. So I replaced their board.
The main difference between marlin and Reprap is that Marlin requires recompiling the firmware to make changes to your settings but with reprap you can edit a plain text file and have it change right then and there. There's a lot of other features as well, but on a day to day basis that's probably the main thing.
On my Ender 3 Max I have an RRF E3 Pro. I had to switch from an RRF E3 when I added dual axis and didn't have enough steppers left. Firmware and hardware are nice as is discord support. After playing with Klipper for some time now, on my Anycubic Vyper I hope I can run Klipper on these RRF boards in the long run. Why? The camera integration on RRF boards doesn't appeal to me and I need a computer for timelapses.
Just a note: At 4:34 you said 'RRF has begun implementing Linear Advance in the latest version' but I believe you meant input shaping, as in the image you show the input shaper test model as well. As Linear advance has been in RRF for quite a few versions now.
@@CNCKitchen haha worth it since it sums up the community pretty well. Hopefully I don't come across as a 'but klipper' person, but I'm genuinely interested in your opinion given your knowledge of 3d printing. From my comparison standpoint, and considering I have several printers running RRF and several with Klipper, I think I prefer klipper slightly more for two reasons: 1. The first and foremost being that I'm a software developer, and so have command-line access where I can deploy scripts and modify any components as I see fit. This is a bit harder with duet. 2. The second being the actual hardware of the Pi being high quality. I have had many issues with the wifi reception with the stock duet antenna and even using add-on antennas. I sometimes send extremely large files and so this can be a pain, whereas the raspberry pi 4 even supports wifi 6, so it caters well to my impatience. In summary they are both great with slight differences, duet is more user friendly, and klipper more configurable. Almost like macOS vs Linux.
@5:10 I wish someone would make one of those awesome adapter boards for the CR10s-Pro, I really want to upgrade to 32-bit and those FLY boards look pretty, er, fly... for a wifi. 😎 Thanks for the most excellent video.
The CR-10 is internally very much like the Ender-3, so a conversion doesn't need an adapter board and most of the connectors should be reusable. Maybe check the Discord.
@@CNCKitchen The CR10s-Pro has a 30-pin ribbon connector. I did see a breakout board a while ago somewhere which was 30-pin to JSTs, but I think the chap only made a few. The alternative would be to chop the large connector off and, split the ribbon cable add male JST connectors.
I also have a Cetus MK3 so I really enjoyed your video. I have a question. Can I still use the cetus' optional heatbed and lcd after that upgrading? I think the connector looks different, but I'm not sure.
Ive been really looking forward to this video, ive had my mk3 for about 1.5 years now and have had mixed feelings the whole time. The fire and forget software was nice at first but the interface for tuning profiles is absolute mess. Im preforming this swap as soon as I'm able to. Thanks for your work Stefan o7
Would that conversion be possible on a TierTime UP Mini 2? This printer as it is is totally unreliable which is frustrating for a very expensive machine... Thanks in advance.
I have a Cetus MK1. This was my first really functioning 3d printer. (After the Buccaneer from Pirate3D with which I only did 2 prints and then it died. And I believe it even arrived later although backed earlier on Kickstarter.) I am thinking about modifying my Cetus as well because it was a little neat machine, but I am a little afraid that getting to learn all the new stuff about the board and the software driving it will take me too much time.
I think a Skr1.3 board with stepper drivers on it will be the easiest approach. No need to fiddle around with multiple boards and connections and weird firmwares. Just use Marlin on a SD card, done.
I purchased Duet 6HC boards with the two RatRigs I ordered just because of the nonsense Thomas suffered. I prefer to stick with those who are professional. Once I have these printers up and running I'm going to convert my CR6SE to a Duet board.
how did u find out the pinout? just testing every ribbon? i need this for a up box with broken main board really bad (dont think the same board will work tho)
Than fan connection to 5v rail is not a good idea. It could kill board. You dont want to have 19v on 5v rail. I would recomend revision of adapter board with DC-DC converter and mosfet controled by fan output of board.
hey btw it doesn't hurt if people got the 192.168. ... IP adress as that's a local only adress on your router, so someone would need to get on your internet to make use of that
RRF has an inferior pressure advance to klipper. RRF uses the same PA value for both X and Y, where Klipper has independent values for X and Y. plus klipper can use your super old hardware because the PI is doing all the hard work
@Stefan du solltest deinen mk3s definitiv auch auf rrf upgraden ;) scheiß auf das Rambo-Board, hau ein duet rein und das Teil performed wie kein anderes und du hast die DWC ;)
I jumped in the 3D printing pool with arm-bands and a float by starting with a Prusa i3 Mk3 a few years ago ;) But I still find these videos about other printers and their abilities/quirks/fixes fascinating because it's all related and I learn more about 3D printing in general.
This printer is $400+ US. You put a lot of work and money for a printer that's already limited in many ways. I would think that that money and effort would be best put into a different printer. Although tinkering is one of the benefits of the hobby. Thanks
I bought my MK2 about four years ago as my first machine after a pretty nice review from another youtuber and originally I was pretty happy with it. As I got more experienced I felt the limitations of the software first and of the electronics later. I have just completed a klipper conversion and now I love it again! I definitely won't buy a second one, but I still think that it is a nice machine for a beginner as you can get decent prints in no time and with no experience straight from day 1.
Over time my cetus motors got hotter and hotter during operation, eventually chewing filament after the raft without fail. They should just ditch the proprietary stuff, the market won't tolerate that anymore.
This has happened to me too, and sometimes it doesn't even get through the raft. Very frustrating
I'm preaty that's broke an entire extroder head for me
@@mondair99 Throw some heatsinks on it
@@Lucas_sGarage thanks boss, I'll try to remember to keep you in the loop
@@mondair99 Sure, take care
Did a very similar mod with a colleague's DaVinci 3D printer, and he was SO glad to be finally able to use open source software, any slicer and any filament he wanted.
This is one of the things I love about 3D printing as a tinkerers' hobby, the mechanical principles are comparatively simple (if you got four motors and parts for those motors to move, you've got the basics) and the software side is so open that you can get pretty much everything that can command stepper motors and relays to run gcode. (I'm oversimplifying a bit, but really, for something that creates physical objects, 3D printers are incredibly easy to understand even for idiots like myself. Like, for comparison I don't think building your own injection molding machine is anywhere near as simple.)
I got into things with the Ender3, and after tinkering with it for two years I think the only stock components that remain are the aluminium frame and motors xD
What a coincidence! A week ago I completed the electronics conversion of my MK2. I did it with an arduino mega + ramps 1.6 + TMC 2130 + raspberry PI 3 so that I could go with klipper. I didn't want to replace the very cool PT100 thermocouple for a shitty thermistor, so I went for a max31865 SPI adapter board. I also upped the voltage to 24 V as running the heating cartridge at the standard 19V was a pain. Now it is a pretty amazing machine!
I did something very similar on my MK1 last week too. Lol. I used an mks robin nano v3 with tmc 2209 drivers. It's got a touch screen and wifi but the screen is too big to mount anywhere on the cetus. What power supply did you go with? My heated bed is super weak on 19v. It draws 30w. I did the math and going to 24v should get it closer to 60w. Unfortunately, I did have to ditch the pt100 because it failed and I opted to replace the entire extruder/hotend. I ended up going with the kp3s titan extruder. It performs great and now I just use standard mk8 nozzles. Last night I put a 3d touch on it, so no more frustrating warped build plate.
@@inoahmann7542 For the time being I am running it from my lab bench PSU and I have a step down converter for the RPI, Arduino and fan. With everything powered it draws about 3.2~3.5 A @ 24 V so I was thinking about getting an EPP-120S-24 PSU, which has a very small footprint. There are also more powerful (but larger) versions if you want to plug the heating bed.
@@urano1988 thanks! I think I'll go with that same power supply. Maybe a slightly bigger one if I can still fit it in my electronics enclosure. If I need to I can limit the power to my hotend and bed to stay under the 120w limit.
I currently upgrading my Cetus MKII and MKIII I replace the Cetus extruder to BIQU H2 extruder. I also replace the TinyFab MCU/mainboard to Melow FLY RRF E3 Pro with the integrated max31865 SPI PT100 IC. And because of the shorter heater cartridge for BIQU H2 extruder I use a Mellow 24V 70W heater, and increase the voltage from 19V to 24V. And I will also design an extra PCB for the PSU connector and for the Z axes hardware break by a relay. This feature is on the MKIII mainboard and also designed in the TinyFab mainboards as well.
What an amazing project. Good to see that there are open source boards that can make old hardware more functional
Original cetus circuit board had a vase gcode bug. I think they implemented vase as delta Z moves but the firmware math truncated the remainders. Now running duet and happy. A good mod is a 1kg force linear spring ($8-20) to counterbalance Z weight which eliminates the Z stepper brake and prevents the nozzle from crashing into my heated glass bed with no AC power..
Cheers-Peter
A pretty interesting board.
Love the PCB adaptor 😌 and would definitely be interested to see more details about HP MJF.
Thanks for this video. Nice to see theat you transformed your Cetus into a good machine. I use a Fly 3 pro on my Ender 3v2. Ik like it a lot. No more recompilations of the firmware when I do a slight modification of the hardware. No extra Raspberry with Octoprint which doubles the amount of complications. I love this solution.
Please remember to change the gcode dialect in your favourite slicer from Marlin to Reprap. ;)
Does it work with a BL touch or CR touch? As I learned more about my E3 V2 I realized I can turn it into a really nice printer instead of buying a different one. My CR touch and Jyers firmware is a joy. I like the options this fly 3 adds.
I'm also a minimalist. Any hardware I can install that will do the work of multiple pieces of hardware, I'm all for.
@@dangerous8333 I used the FLY with a BL touch clone. Twotrees I believe. It's a bit more ciitical to ajust compared to the original.
I am interested in a strength test. Maybe even in comparison to standard SLS parts.
+1
MJF is superior in z-axis strength and consistency to SLS and is superior in every way besides specialized material availability. I own two 5210 MJF machines and would be happy to provide CNC Kitchen some parts for testing!
+1
@@mkmachining7957 What is the reason for this? Layer height? Temperature? Maybe Stefan can find out.
Yeah.. that fancy nylon print would be a great test subject checking for accuracy and strength.
Finally, someone who reviewed jlcpcb 3d prints! 😅
Hi @CNC Kitchen, Pronterface can also transfer small letters by adding ' in front of a letter. P'A'S'S'W'O'R'D is Password. That is not quite as convenient but for once entering a Hotspot and Password...
Thanks for the info!
What an amazing project.👍👍👍
Yes please! I'd really enjoy seeing a CNC style strength test! Your strength test videos are some of my favorite videos! If you need a suggestion on videos series please also consider doing a resin accuracy and strength test for msla! Lots of resin are for sale but not many engineers test them. Having a series for people that want to use them for engineering products would really be helpful.
@10:09 M997 is narrated as "M197". Still, far better English than my German.
Haven't tried the fly boards myself but I'm on the Mellow discord server and there's tons of good-spirit community activity and _very_ active engagement from Mellow themselves on these fly boards, troubleshooting, iterative improvements and custom versions etc. So I wouldn't worry about these boards getting deprecated anytime soon, their adoptation is likely gonna spread, along with more firmware development and new forks.
I'm not too big on speaking about these kinds of companies, I find they often disappoint in some way. But I gotta be honest - Mellow's community engagement and openness to community feedback and suggestions has me softening a bit. They even have a dedicated discord channel for suggestions 😊 And funnily enough, my last two suggestions pretty much both got the same replies (within roughly 20 minutes): "already in design" and "already in development".
My SKR Mini E3 broke and I was ready to buy a Robin mainboard and then suddenly I came across this video. What a perfect coincidence! Now I'm waiting for my Mellow Fly and before watching this I didn't even know it was a thing :)
Perfect for my Printrbot Simple metal, it's gathering dust for a while now, which is sad ... a board like this would bring some well deserved life back into it :)
Huh, literally just ordered one of the pro versions of this for my ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Probably a good sign to see it here!
You’ll love it. Significant upgrade!
I’m glad more boards are starting to use reprap firmware and isn’t limited to duet boards only anymore especially since duet boards always seem to be pretty big and expensive since your usually paying for a bunch of features you don’t need
Open source is best source! I do like the replaceable drivers, but I would be lying if I said I ever replaced one before, never needed to! lol. Love that RRF is implementing klipper systems as klipper is honestly a pain in the butt :/ Glad this worked out, will have to try it out on one of our machines!
0:07 my "old printer in the corner" is the buccaneer 3d printer, from first hand experience i can confirm that that printer was garbage.
Really enjoy these type of videos ... like putting a nice QUIET engine in the car so when you drive by my house, I don't even hear you.
1:05 'and didn't really print well'
**shows perfect benchy**
is that a typo/error at 4:30 where (after telling that linear advanced is also available) you say that even linear advance will be available and can reduce ghosting. I think you meant input shaping instead of linear advanced in that moment, right? Grüße aus NRW
Yes this was a pretty glaring error. He's definitely meaning input shaping. In RRF Linear advance is called pressure advance btw.
This really felt like an add for the Mellow board
More like RRF commercial
Tried to show the good and the bad, but I'm seriously happy with the hardware and firmware.
@@CNCKitchen I am a long time viewer, trust your videos, but still it sounded a bit like a commercial. But it's a cool board too!
@@CNCKitchen to be honest, working with RRF so far felt to me as if i was doing a commercial as well
It's just so user friendly
The PCB design isn't a whole lot of work, tbh. As Peter says above, RRF is the real star here.
The time invested into RRF development will probably be hundreds of times that of the Mellow PCB - which is why it's a bit of a shame that the RRF devs likely aren't supported by purchases of these boards... (I suspect a significant chunk of the Duet boards' prices goes towards firmware development, hence the higher prices.)
Nice to see RRF ❤️. I use RRF on my machines and adore this firmware. One board, easy config and decent features.... Did I mention very stable as well?
Same here, most of my everyday printers now run RRF. It takes a bit to learn but now I love it!
I liked RRF but the problem for me is that if something doesn't work, the support for it is as useless as windows support. Switched my duet board to Klipper and never looked back since
@@jexom I've honestly been able to find documentation for everything I've ever had issues with. The wiki pages are pretty well written. Though I gotta admit having stuff like a discord server for the vorons which usually run klipper is pretty sweet.
@@jexom On the Duet forum you can literally talk to the developers and they will walk you through your issue. Is that useless?
If I ever need q&a for a custom board I know who to send a free one to! Seriously, great video and now I'm more convinced than ever to buy an $80 printer on Bangood and just swap out the mobo and start printing.
Will you consider reviewing the Phaetus (or rebranded as Trianglelabs) _'Rapido'_ UHF hotend? It's a high-volume, quality workmanship, mostly nickel-plated copper unit with strong construction and a (up to) 115 watt ceramic heater, that give even the Mosquito Magnum Plus and Supervolcano a run for their money. And it does so while still using the regular M6 reprap/V6 nozzles we already have, or optionally regular Volcano nozzles. Slap a large CHT or Matchless nozzle on that puppy and it might just pass 100mm^3/s. For $99.
I believe the... "contentious" (?) aspects are more than different enough that this one goes clear of Slice's and E3D's patents.
Stefan, what a great video! I like RRF myself. But please, tell us that you got the board from the manufacturer at the start of the video!
Just curious, Why hide your local ip in the video?
Its not like it can be misused.
The more firmware and controller options, the better.
Good point! And all have their place IMO.
I'd like to have more information on Kicad, like a primer for Mechanical Engineers. I'm still not comfortable enough with PCB manufacture
Looks interesting for Kingroon K3PS
I just did this with a Dobot Mooz, I used a BTT E3 RRF board, it can now print any material, much better printer than the Cetus, but had a terrible main board and closed software.
You mean "input shaper" as the new feature. "linear advance" is a feature included for years.
Totally right. I think I was too excited about my Klipper joke 😅
This is exactly what I was looking for. I love the Cetus but it needs some slicer tuning and it just can't. I'll have to attempt this one myself.
4:29 what is the problem here? why is there always this klipper/reprap firmare hating? did I miss something?
I finally got a new 32 bit board to replace a 6 year old 8 bit one, and I didn't think it was actually possible for my machine to be this quiet.
that was how I felt when upgrading my original CR-10
I had a reverse experience at work. When I built my machine, I built it from the ground up with TMC2208s, and later upgraded to closed loop steppers (the BTT NEMA 17s, great stuff). They're really quiet, became a "silent but the fans" printer. No money for Noctuas here.
Then at work I was tasked to revive an old small CNC router, and found an Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 setup with the classic A4988s there that I could use, and heck that thing screams, I had no idea they were that loud normally.
Love this project, this exactly what I did top my Printrbot Simple Metal
I'm having major DejaVu watching this. Wasn't the same machine pulled off a dusty shelf and a new board added in an earlier video?
I believe his last video about this machine was about fixing the lopsided extruder gear to get consistent extrusions.
Partly, yes. The last one was about the wobbly extruder gear, this one's about the mainboard.
Awesome.. This is a great video.. I currently have a smoothie board running my Cetus. But I will try this one soon.. BTW the original cetus heater block uses Pt100 as temp sensor. The pro version has a variant supporting pt100 so chose that if you don't want to switch original temp sensor
Thanks for the info!
Wow, great work!
Great video as always
Thanks for your big work into the community :-)
please make custom boards and a video for tronxy x5sa pro
Good to see another good competitor entering into the control board space, but as you implied, Duet may be a safer bet in the long term.
My Cetus Mk2 is my printer in the corner.
The MJF is interesting, i've used JLC a few times for PCB's but if i want stuff like the Orbiter/Sherpa mini etc i can now actually get it printed without buying an entire new extruder, since i have an Orbiter and would like to test the Sherpa mini that could be useful..
I wish I had a Cetus! :) (but I already have an RRF Fly 3 board that I'm going to put into my very old and crappy Delta printer! And I expect a lot from it!).
"I'm sure many of you have an old 3D printer in a corner [...]"
Bro when I started watching this channel I didn't even have _one_ let alone some old one gathering dust! And now I just have one as well...
At least it seems you made the right choice! Thanks for watching.
@@CNCKitchen Gotta say this channel helped a lot with gathering information for the build and my 1st prints.
Do you have any more of these boards as I can’t seem to see them on your store? Thanks in advance
What is with the bed leveling and software Endstops? Is there an option? And what is when the Cetus has a Heated bed?
I like this Projekt! Nice work!
Average Klipper fanboy be like: BUT KLIPPER!!!!
Marlin/RepRap enjoyer: u aren't special anymore
It's mainly the interfaces for me. Mainsail is just.....Beautiful
@@coltenmeredith8899 i can't argue with that
Nice video, this might be a mod I'll actually try. At the moment the only mods applied to my cetus is a new 80mm Noctua Extruder/Part Cooling fan + adapter, because the stock one was really uncomfortably loud. Although I'm okay with the prints I'm getting out, using something different than the proprietary UPStudio Slicer (which I dislike) with added microstepping capabilities would make this upgrade really worth the effort.
Anyway, thanks for sharing :)
2:57 I don't think I've heard "proprietary" pronounced that way before. I usually hear it as "pro-pry-a-tree" or "pro-pry-a-terry", with emphasis on the "pry".
There are a few time where you say "linear advance" instead or "resonance compensation" or "input shaping" at least one was obvious in context but from then I was wondering whether you meant linear advance or not each time you said it.
Hi, i got an UpBox+ and i want to do a board swap with a bigtreetech... I want to use a proper slicer, gcodes, add a screen and a card reader and even change the extruder assembly because i hate the tiertime's as it is... Can someone give me some hints?
I have one of the pro boards in my ender 3 pro and in my opinion made a night and day difference in performance. I bounce between RRF and Klipper on it for testing and playing around. Also yay I saw my GCode Viewer on the video :D
Great work!
Wish this was posted 3 weeks ago. I just bought a duet 2 to convert my Cetus MK2 to do just this.
Sorry to hear that. Hope it worked out for you!
@@CNCKitchen I have been messing with it all day. Unfortunately, I have MK2 and you started with a MK3. So there are some variances like trying to get sensorless homing working. I also switched from using the standard hotend to a Slice Copperhead.
Haven't started a print, but I have about 90%+ of the printer verified working. Last thing is swapping the sensorless homing with a capacitive proximity sensor for the Z axis.
of course we want to see a strength test
i would not get a board that runs rrf. i go fpr the genuine duet boards. after all problems i had with marlin back in the days and almost quit the hobby i ordered a duet wifi. and the support i got from dc42 made me a returning customer. all my printers my custom built voron/hevort hybrid. my tridebt idex. and my ender 3 and flsun sr all run duet boards and i think its worth to support the duet crew
perfect impression of Klipper fans, i love the firmware but they're often a bit much
But...... _Klipper!_
I'm a klipper fan, I think its great software. And sure I was a little sad Tom decided not to use it on his voron. But then the way the klipper fanboys harrased tom and most likely pushed him away from klipper for good really makes me angry. I just hate it when a few loud idiots ruin a good thing for everyone else.
@@jamesmelemede5610 reread your comment but slowly, all your hate is going towards a person with his own opinion. you are going all out on Domenico and even pull in Thomas (who even isnt even mentioned except for your comment)
really great job of not putting the klipper community in a bad light really really great job.
Daddy chill .
What is the difference between RepRap firmware and Marlin?
I have an ANET A6 which I de-gutted and replaced their main board with an Arduino 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin.
I didn't like their firmware and also the stepper drivers were soldered on the main board.
That was a deal breaker for me. So I replaced their board.
The main difference between marlin and Reprap is that Marlin requires recompiling the firmware to make changes to your settings but with reprap you can edit a plain text file and have it change right then and there. There's a lot of other features as well, but on a day to day basis that's probably the main thing.
@@JasonZnack Thanks
On my Ender 3 Max I have an RRF E3 Pro. I had to switch from an RRF E3 when I added dual axis and didn't have enough steppers left. Firmware and hardware are nice as is discord support. After playing with Klipper for some time now, on my Anycubic Vyper I hope I can run Klipper on these RRF boards in the long run. Why? The camera integration on RRF boards doesn't appeal to me and I need a computer for timelapses.
Mainsaill just added timelapse functionality
@@powersv2 Yeah, and I like it. One more reason I am getting away from Octoprint.
Nice video! Thanks for the inspiration!
My pleasure!
You mention linear advance a few times when I believe you are referring to resonance compensation/input shaping instead
Yes, you're right. I was too excited after my Klipper joke and messed it up.
Just a note: At 4:34 you said 'RRF has begun implementing Linear Advance in the latest version' but I believe you meant input shaping, as in the image you show the input shaper test model as well. As Linear advance has been in RRF for quite a few versions now.
Yes, you're right. I was too excited after my Klipper joke and messed it up.
@@CNCKitchen haha worth it since it sums up the community pretty well.
Hopefully I don't come across as a 'but klipper' person, but I'm genuinely interested in your opinion given your knowledge of 3d printing.
From my comparison standpoint, and considering I have several printers running RRF and several with Klipper, I think I prefer klipper slightly more for two reasons:
1. The first and foremost being that I'm a software developer, and so have command-line access where I can deploy scripts and modify any components as I see fit. This is a bit harder with duet.
2. The second being the actual hardware of the Pi being high quality. I have had many issues with the wifi reception with the stock duet antenna and even using add-on antennas. I sometimes send extremely large files and so this can be a pain, whereas the raspberry pi 4 even supports wifi 6, so it caters well to my impatience.
In summary they are both great with slight differences, duet is more user friendly, and klipper more configurable. Almost like macOS vs Linux.
@5:10 I wish someone would make one of those awesome adapter boards for the CR10s-Pro, I really want to upgrade to 32-bit and those FLY boards look pretty, er, fly... for a wifi. 😎
Thanks for the most excellent video.
The CR-10 is internally very much like the Ender-3, so a conversion doesn't need an adapter board and most of the connectors should be reusable. Maybe check the Discord.
@@CNCKitchen The CR10s-Pro has a 30-pin ribbon connector. I did see a breakout board a while ago somewhere which was 30-pin to JSTs, but I think the chap only made a few.
The alternative would be to chop the large connector off and, split the ribbon cable add male JST connectors.
I also have a Cetus MK3 so I really enjoyed your video. I have a question. Can I still use the cetus' optional heatbed and lcd after that upgrading? I think the connector looks different, but I'm not sure.
Ive been really looking forward to this video, ive had my mk3 for about 1.5 years now and have had mixed feelings the whole time. The fire and forget software was nice at first but the interface for tuning profiles is absolute mess. Im preforming this swap as soon as I'm able to. Thanks for your work Stefan o7
Happy to hear that! It's a great project for a rainy weekend.
Good luck destroying a great machine. 👍 Convert it into a Mk3S+. Because there is nothing better.
When will your adapter boards be available? Very interested in converting my mk2
He has the gerber files on on his Github, but i dont which ones to upload to JLCPCB
I klipperized mine, changed the extruder thought because hate custom nozzles
"custom nozzles" ?
@@REDxFROG I assume he meant proprietary
Please make it wireless! That would be so cool!
It’s running RRF, it IS wireless with control through the WiFi.
@@christophmuller3511 oh I mean wireless by connecting it to a battery
@@jamescerven4400 yeah, was not finished with the video yet…
BUT KLIPPER! part is so funny. Yes you put it in there just in time and probably shut a lot of us up. Good job.
"buttclipper" sounds like a really interesting concept. :D
Would that conversion be possible on a TierTime UP Mini 2? This printer as it is is totally unreliable which is frustrating for a very expensive machine... Thanks in advance.
I have a Cetus MK1. This was my first really functioning 3d printer. (After the Buccaneer from Pirate3D with which I only did 2 prints and then it died. And I believe it even arrived later although backed earlier on Kickstarter.)
I am thinking about modifying my Cetus as well because it was a little neat machine, but I am a little afraid that getting to learn all the new stuff about the board and the software driving it will take me too much time.
If it's not your only machine, it's a great learning opportunity, though it will require some time and skill.
I think a Skr1.3 board with stepper drivers on it will be the easiest approach. No need to fiddle around with multiple boards and connections and weird firmwares. Just use Marlin on a SD card, done.
do you think this would be a good idea for upgrading a budget printer?
Oh man. My cetus mk2 prints great but its so loud. This is a bit of a project just to make it more quiet.
Exactly what my problem was! If the pinout of the extruder ribbon cable is the same, my adapter board should work as well!
it would seem that both boards are no longer available 😕
Spend $10 and convert to klipper. It's way easier to change settings
You mentioned Marlin and Klipper but you didn't say why RepRap was better suited to the Cetus in your opinion
I purchased Duet 6HC boards with the two RatRigs I ordered just because of the nonsense Thomas suffered. I prefer to stick with those who are professional. Once I have these printers up and running I'm going to convert my CR6SE to a Duet board.
Great choice! Have the Mini 5+ still in my Prusa and am super happy with it!
Curious what filament was used for that orange vasemode print... it was pretty!
That was 3DJake MagicPLA Sunset Sky.
Hey, are you going to test any Pellet Extruders? Its hard to find a good review about quality, retraction and other issues =c
4:29 best of the video , its a great video and information thanks
how did u find out the pinout? just testing every ribbon? i need this for a up box with broken main board really bad (dont think the same board will work tho)
Than fan connection to 5v rail is not a good idea. It could kill board. You dont want to have 19v on 5v rail. I would recomend revision of adapter board with DC-DC converter and mosfet controled by fan output of board.
hey btw it doesn't hurt if people got the 192.168. ... IP adress as that's a local only adress on your router, so someone would need to get on your internet to make use of that
im quite happy with my Duet 3 Mini 5+, replaced the stock Mainboard in the Sidewinder x1 with it and got now quite a lot of prints done.
RRF has an inferior pressure advance to klipper. RRF uses the same PA value for both X and Y, where Klipper has independent values for X and Y. plus klipper can use your super old hardware because the PI is doing all the hard work
so .... compensation vs solution?
Do you mean input shaping?
Hello Stephan, my question is do you think that the bigtreetech rrf e3 v1.1 will do the same work as the your presented mellow fly?
do you recommend getting the cetus2 3d printer?
@Stefan du solltest deinen mk3s definitiv auch auf rrf upgraden ;) scheiß auf das Rambo-Board, hau ein duet rein und das Teil performed wie kein anderes und du hast die DWC ;)
I replaced all the 8 bit boards with 32bit skr boards
strength test?.... Yes please!!!!!!
I’d be surprised if there wasn’t a weird issue with running a 24v at 18v
I jumped in the 3D printing pool with arm-bands and a float by starting with a Prusa i3 Mk3 a few years ago ;)
But I still find these videos about other printers and their abilities/quirks/fixes fascinating because it's all related and I learn more about 3D printing in general.
How fast is the upload for the wifi? And by linear advance, did you mean input shaper?
ESP8266 boards manage about 500-600kb/s, ESP32 boards can peak at 1.6-1.7Mb/s
Hmm... Wondering if this could work on my old original CR-10? 😒
Yes, should be compatible with the CR-10.
"linear advance" you meant input shaper at 4:30
Yes, you're right. Got carried away by my joke.
@@CNCKitchen You are so patient with all the guys who post comments without looking at the other previous comments.
This printer is $400+ US. You put a lot of work and money for a printer that's already limited in many ways. I would think that that money and effort would be best put into a different printer. Although tinkering is one of the benefits of the hobby. Thanks
I bought my MK2 about four years ago as my first machine after a pretty nice review from another youtuber and originally I was pretty happy with it.
As I got more experienced I felt the limitations of the software first and of the electronics later. I have just completed a klipper conversion and now I love it again!
I definitely won't buy a second one, but I still think that it is a nice machine for a beginner as you can get decent prints in no time and with no experience straight from day 1.
Wouldn't recommend buying a Cetus Mk3 for this purpose, but if you have one, it's well-spend money.