SKODA FABIA Door Lock in more detail, Driver's side, RHD (Mk1 99-07)
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2020
- In this video I show you more detail on removing and refitting the Front Door lock on a RHD Skoda Fabia MK1 (99-07) which is similar to other VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda models
Assembly carrier to door: 8Nm random sequence
Door glass clamp bolt 10Nm
door barrel lock grub screw lock T20 unscrew max 4 turns approx 3Nm
Secondary security fixing 12 turns approx (Don't over loosen )
door catch bolt M8x14 N90846501 20Nm
Door lock OEM
Please check further with auto supply shop as there are many part
numbers for these and may have slight variations.
Front right DOOR LOCK 6X2 837 014 RHD
RADIO REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING 3B2 837 016 RHD
Front left DOOR LOCK 3B1 837 015 LHD
RADIO REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING 3B1 837 015 LHD
CR2032 key fob battery
amzn.to/3Aw3dwW
Micro-switch: amzn.to/3rZwLkb please check to compare first
My car uses M6 threaded bolts with a 10mm head x 10mm thread length. I would recommend using steel rivnut preferred. Be careful taking rivets out.
Inner panel remove/refit video: • SKODA FABIA Door Card ...
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The content of this video is for information and entertainment value only and it's creator makes no claims, promise or guarantees of it's accuracy, coverage, instruction or adequacy of the procedures contained therein.
HatBoyHarvey assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
HatBoyHarvey recommends correct safety practices when working on motor vehicles, vehicle lifting tools, axle stands, hand tools, electrical equipment, chemical, products and consumable parts, lubricants or any other tools, equipment, chemical product and consumable parts, lubricants seen or implied in this video.
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Very well made vid, as always. Thank you.
Much appreciated, my pleasure :-)
My new favorite 'mini-series' on youtube. I own one from 2002 and having problems with random locking (twice with the key inside and me out ).
Easy in your video but I think in my case I will stick with a spare key always in my pocket.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and greetings from Romania.
Glad to hear you like my fabia stuff :-) When cars get old the electrical connections start to play up due to corrosion and loosening. anywhere cable are constantly being moved such as the door cables could eventually cause trouble. Just taking connection off then back on can solve a lot of intermittent issues :-)
Tack för att du delar med dig av dina kunskaper 👍
Du är mycket välkommen 👍
Svaka ti cast...mislio sam da nikad neces sve ponovo sklopiti.
hvala ti, nema problema :-)
Hello Harvey, thanks for all videos which you made. You are a guru for fabia 👍
My pleasure my friend :-)
Your videos have helped me out with multiple issues on my '02 Fabia! Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. Big fan of how you take the time to show how everything works and how to disconnect everything up close. Makes it way easier when doing the job. Especially with many of the brittle plastic connectors, it can be a bit difficult figuring them out yourself. Knowing exactly what to press to release them must have saved so many plastic clips out there 😄
I bet your videos have saves many Fabia owners of numerous big bills! Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your support and I am glad to help others with; as you say the 'brittle plastic connectors' that can be just that sometimes and annoyingly so, only to your detriment after you have taken it off the wrong way :-)
Mate you are an absolute life saver. My parents car has this exact issue with the boot not opening and it’s been driving me nuts…great to see a solution and possible easier solution in the comments. Need all these storms to end so I can get at it and when funds are better I’ll be buying you a coffee. You absolute legend. This vid and channel are going to save me hours of research but give me hours of work!
Cheers, you're very welcome, hope you get the boot working :-)
Great video .Thanks
Thanks, glad you liked it :-)
it's very useful video, thank you my Dear
So nice of you :-)
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!🙏
You are so welcome, glad to help :-)
I have this problem on my fabia combi sdi.
Thank you very much.
No problem, glad to help :-)
whats is the part number for front left passenger door lock with remote central locking on a fabia mk1 2006 hatchback 54bhp
Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo
Pas de problème, merci :-)
Good Bark thanks
No problem 👍
Super★★★★★
Hello just been following you taking the door card off tutorial, should i be able to open the door from the outside once the internal door trim is removed? Thanks and great videos!!!
You can, but if there is a fault with the lock it could stop it opening. often the little cable attached to the handle is over-tight preventing the door from opening. literally thump it a few times with your palm can also open it, honestly :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank for that! Got it working. Ill be taking it all back off again for some sound deadening next.
Great vid, how do i remove the passenger door latch that doesn’t have a key hole?
Same principle as the drivers door, but without using a key and you will find it slips out easily :-)
Super job....
Bravooo.....
One question.... This doors central lock is electrically... And no pneumatic... Its right??...
I have exactly this problem.....
Thanks...
Yes, correct
Hey @HatBoyHarvey appreciate your videos watched most of them :). I own Skoda Fabia and have a little problem maybe you will have some advice? The driver's door seems not to be connected to the other doors. When I use the central lock all the doors will lock/unlock except for the drivers door. When I try manually to lock/unlock with the key from the drivers door - only this one will lock/unlock and the others no. So every time I need to lock all the doors with the central lock and the driver's one manually and same for the unlocking. Can you point me on what can be the issue? Thank you
There are 2 maybe 3 places to look at, first is the wiring behind the rubber bellows on the A pillar and connections to A pillar. Second is the lock itself and in particular the micro-switch within it, hard to see the wear on these, but it inevitably will be worn over time. Third place is the connections to the lock and motor control within the door which must be dry, if damp and corroded then you need to stop the water ingress first. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :-)
I have the similar problem for my skoda fabia . I tried checking with the local mechanic and he mentioned it might be the motor problem. If you issue is resolved can you please let me know what was the problem ? Thank you !
@@likku03 Unfortunately the issue is not resolved. I was only able to check the cables on the A Pillar and everything seems to be fine(@HatBoyHarvey thanks for the tips man, but seems like I will have to find a mechanic). The door is just disconnected from the other doors for some reason I can see that because for example when I open the driver's door the lights inside the cabin wont lit(it does not detect that the door is opened) and no problem if I open passenger door for example. Other example when I switch off the engine and don't pull the key off normally when you open one of the doors you wont be able to control the windows anymore, but that only works when I open the passenger door for example, when I open the driver's door I am still able to control the window and that is because the car does not detect that driver's door is opened. I can control passenger window from the driver's door, also passenger side mirror, but for example If I try the lock button on the drivers door it will lock/unlock all the other doors except for the drivers one. I don't know what can be the problem but given the fact that the car does not detect that door as open/closed it makes me think that it is disconnected from somewhere but I don't know where to look at. Maybe there has been a factory alarm system and because of that they disconnected the door. I have a little LED on the driver's door that is blinking in red and I assume it is for an alarm system but the car actually does not have one. It does not stop blinking when I open the driver's door, it stops when I start the engine or use the central lock to unlock the other 3 doors. My guess is that the problem has something to do with that but I don't know what and where to look for.
@@scorpion87bg Thanks for sharing the info. I am experiecing the same problem as you have mentioned. I can live with that If I have to operate doors only with key but the most irritating part is the locking sound when I drive mostly when I slow down. I am planning to replace the drivers side lock mechanism to check whether this door lock might be the problem. Some where the sensor or circuit breaker is not getting closed and it makes thinking the system that door is till unlock lets try to lock it.
@@likku03 in your case maybe it is a problem with the lock mechanism. In my situation it is not trying to lock/unlock the driver's door with the central lock. What about manual lock? Does manual lock from driver's door lock all the doors? Because for me locking with the key only locks/unlocks the driver's door, the other 3 doors I have to lock/unlock with the central lock, so always when I leave the car I have to lock the driver's door manually and the others with central lock.. not that big of a problem that's why I still have not looked for a mechanic but still if someone has an idea..
hi, i have fabia 2005 the remote not working and sometime work but must be very close to the car is that switch responsible for my issue ?
Change the battery in the fob first, not all batteries are the same, cheap one's are no good for this. Check condition of car battery - 12.6 Volts. Make sure red light flashes, if not the it maybe a connection issue in the fob. If you don't get a definite click on the button, then it may be that. Try your second key, if you have one, if not, then you need to get one and have it programmed to your original key.
Hi HatBoyHarvey have you noticed a reduced brightness in the flashing red LED on driver-side door card? I believe this is connected to the alarm and flashes or blinks when the car is fully locked and alarm activated.
I've read in the car handbook that the alarm battery is separate from the usual 12v car battery and needs replacing every 5 (or maybe it was 15?), years or so. If this is true, is a video possible for this or perhaps it is not needed if easy to replace?
Thank you.
If you have an alarm the reserve battery is in the siren itself on it's PCB board. I don't have one so can't show this. You can replace the siren if it doesn't work or dismantle it to change the battery. I believe they are rechargeable, but eventually fail. I'm not sure if the flashing immobilizer light has a separate battery at all.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks. I had wrongly assumed that the red LED was an indication that an alarm was present. I understand now that it is connected to the immobiliser. Do you happen to know where the siren is located?
underneath/behind the left hand wheel arc liner either front or behind rear exhaust guard next to fuel tank depending on age, but I have never seen or dealt with one. I believe you can replace the whole unit with an after-market version that is cheaper and more reliable ;-) (you have got me thinking that I'll have a look on my car after all, just to check if one is there, but don't think it is).
@@HatBoyHarvey thank you. I'd imagine it wouldn't be easy to get to for obvious reasons. I hope it doesn't cause to much work for you if you decide to investigate.
Hi, does anyone know the location of relays on same Fabia. Thanks!
Under the right hand dash and also some within the voltage control unit :-)
thanks man
Hello, can you tell me please the exact name and size of the Bolts that I can use to attach the Panel of window regulator to the door? thanks in advance!
OEM: N90491101 M6x10
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks a lot bro!
Is my skoda fabia 1.4 2010tdi engine low pickup problem oil stick smoke out wat sthaprobalam my hep you
if you have smoke coming from the oil filler stick it sounds like a blown piston ring or maybe the PCV crack case breather system needs cleaning out or simply the MAF sensor and throttle body/EGR or even an intercooler pipe leak if the smoke is at the exhaust. Could be any number of things, but I would look at the PCV maybe first. Hope this helps :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks your yutube chanal good infrmeshne mecanic tekanology good night my language namskaram 🙏
thanks i have this problem in my car but the important problem is the passenger door does not opened from remote or inside never it is locked how can help me
Detach the bellows by the door hinge, examine the wires there for fraying and disconnect/reconnect connections after taking earth lead off, then re-check function. If still no luck then you will have to take the door card off and check connections there. Then examine the micro switch inside the lock mechanism/test/replace.
@@HatBoyHarvey i cant becouse the door is closed now and cant examine the wires
@@mohammudbriman1179 I understand now, sorry. have you tried banging on the handle a number of times to see if that opens the lock. Believe me this can work as the lock wire mech can get stuck and just needs a bit of a nudge. try squirting lube in and around the handle near the lock also. jiggle the key in the barrel. Have a look at: czcams.com/video/suB-n30YJHg/video.html this video.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks a lot i did as you say and at last it is opened but it re locked again and i am trying since that to open but it did not
@@mohammudbriman1179 don't shut it next time and then you can check all the things I mentioned ;)
The inner panel on mine is riveted in. Why do they have to do this.....
I have heard it may have been to aid the side impact protection giving consistantcy in the panels shear toque in an accident. That is why it is important if you have bolts to toque down each bolt correctly. Another reason maybe to speed up assembly or just they don't want anyone messing inside the door to store contraband! :-)
Is it possible to put bolts instead of riveting in after lock is changed?
hi there Harvey, I have a question. my Skoda Fabia door lock module has a problem so if I bought a new Skoda lock module or OEM parts from amazon or eBay does it just do plug n play or did I have to remap, cos I don't know a thing about it and from where I lived, Skoda is the rarest car in here, so not many workshop or foremen knows about this car.
With the lock yes, should be plug&play as you say, just make sure you disconnect the battery earth lead before. If it is the central locking module under the dash then this needs to be adapted/coded into the car.
Is the bottom screw a T20 as well as the top one ?? screw as you don't say, you just mention the top grub screw is a T20, Thanks...
it is, but longer :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey ok thanks, just ordered a set to change the lock, tganks.....
@@HatBoyHarvey Mines a 1.2 HTP on a 06 plate hatchback 46000 miles. My key snapped in the barrel so bought a replacement key/barrel, door lock and petrol tank locking cap that all fit the said key for £18 of ebay. just got to have the key recoded to my car which will be £25.
The workshop manual and my own experience confirm it is not necessary to remove the window glass. After loosening the bolts which secure it to the lifter, move the glass fully to the top and secure it to the door frame with parcel tape. Then be sure to move the lifter back down before trying to remove the carrier panel.
Also, before refitting the lock the end of its apparently redundant coiled spring should be inserted into the slot in the arm that moves when the exterior handle is pulled. That spring sets and keeps the position of that arm in the correct place when (after the lock bolts are fitted) the short cable is attached to the exterior handle. After the barrel is refitted and secured, pull the exterior handle to disengage the spring.
Thanks Geoff for your extra-input on this, most welcome and I'm sure many do do this. But there is a reason I prefer to remove the glass completely (although you then run the risk of breaking it!): It doesn't rely upon poor choice of tape to hold the pane up (as some may do) and removes the possibility your particular tape fails or fails to stick right as you thought Christmas stocking tape would suffice ;-) Also I have found using parcel tape, which is strong enough, often leaves residue on the glass that isn't always easy to remove. Forgetting the lifter arm is another.
Is this fix the rear door problem too? really?
Check the power going to the rear locks, first by the door pillar hinge as these can break due to opening and closing. then the power to the lock behind the panel. Check all conectors and refit, if power is there, but no joy, suspect the lock. Check child lock isn't affecting the lock. Also note that some have reported their convenience control unit had lost coding for all 4 doors so that also maybe worth looking into if you think the locks are good. You would need vag tool or vagcom to do that. Hope this helps and you can get those locks working :-)
HI Harvey, I am progressing slowly on replacing my window regulator. The breakage cause was the plastic nylon cable retainer tensioner which has cracked and split allowing the wire cable metal lugs to come loose so the wire itself goes slack and untensioned and then gets wrapped around the centre gear. I am just about to replace the old panel with a new metal panel with regulator attached . It is not quite as good quality as the original though, but looks as if it will do the job, cost £27.00. The difficult bit was drilling out the old rivets. You really need decent drill bits and an OK drill!. I had to buy some and I used HHS high speed steel bits from Halfords cost £7.99 each pack for 2 M7/M8/M6. I used an M6 to initially drill out then an M8 to JUST TAKE THE FRONT END OFF THE OLD RIVET BUT, NOT DRILLING THROUGH TO MAKE A HOLE. I tapped the old pop rivet out with a hammer and old masonry drill bit. I then used a M7 for the RIVNUT Hole , just slightly widening the original door hole, as the original door holes, that the new metal regulator panel attaches too are too small for an M6 rivnut (only M5 and M5 flange bolts don't cover the new panel holes when its attached). I used M6 rivnuts and M6 FLANGE BOLTS length 10mm bolts , with flange just being wide enough to cover the new panel holes edges and secure the new metal panel. An M7 drill bit is required to widen out the original door panel hole to make a perfect hole and fit for the M6 RIVNUTS. Rivnut tool and rivnuts, no flange bolts included cost £19.99 and is very good quality. Flange bolts available on eBay i used stainless steel ones £2.99 for 10. I just thought this might be useful to anyone who has to drill out a riveted panel. My Skoda Fabia VRS is a late 2006 Nov /2007 spec BLT engine 6Y2. I also managed to remove the old panel without undoing the door lock and mechanism. Im hoping it goes back on as easily! Im now watching your videos again to check the reassembly sequences, hoping I don't forget anything! I absolutely couldn't have done this or wouldn't have even tackled this without you excellent video guide and advice. I have found this to be quite a long job, if you havnt done this task before, but so long as people follow your video guide they can do it, saving £100's and £100's in garage bills! Thank you very much Harvey, Keep up the Sterling Work!
Thanks greatly for sharing your experiences and techniques/tools/parts etc, should help others :-) Just to add that it is advisable to use steel riv-nuts rather than alloy as alloy ones oxidize more easily with steel ;-)
Cheers Harvey. I would also like to add that I had to use rivnuts for the speaker reattachment as my pop rivet gun nozzle was to bulky to get close enoght to the soeaker surround and holes and my pop rivet head too small in diameter. I used the same M6 ruvnuts after drilling holes wuder using a M7 drill. I would suggest using stainless steel hex flange bolts ( to fit rivnuts) M6 x 14 or 16mm as 10mm is a tad short unless you really cimpress the rivnuts. That worked a treat! Hope this is of benefit to others Cheers Harvey!
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you Harvey, I didnt appreciate that and have used aluminium rivnuts..oops! Hopefully they will be ok as Ill now put a bit of 3i1 oil or grease over them and some thread lock when I try and refit everything tomorrow! Excellent advice Harvey!
I wouldn't worry, it's not that bad. look up galvanic corrosion for further information :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey will do Harvey thanks very much!
Great video .Thanks
My pleasure, hope it helped you :-)