Hi bro, first of all i want to say that you channel is awesome , very good montero sport repair list. I see that you are pretty familiar with that car and i have the same with an issue i cannot resolve for a long time. Its exactly the same 3.0 177hps with automatic gearbox. The issue i have is when the car is warmed up and i fully stop with the brake pedal depressed and engaged in D the car randomly shakes when idling. If i move it to park and let it idle it doesnt shake at all there are no trouble codes ( i ahve new sparks plugs, cables and new maf sensor all is the same). The strange thing is that there are no trouble codes or any sign when im traveling , but when im fully stopped on D and with warmed up engine it shakes randomly. Im starting to wonder if i have bad egr solenoid which is about to fully fail but still manages to engage and disengage randomly. I will be very thankful if you happened to know whats causing it or any tip or guidance will be much appreciated. Thank you for your gr8 videos
I would start of with cleaning all the following: Mass Air Flow Sensor, Throttle Body, Idle Air Control Valve- I sold my Montero I wish I could have made more videos to help Also have you replaced your motor and transmission mounts? Here’s a video on a Mitsubishi Eclipse I had idling issues with it and fixed it- I hope this helps. czcams.com/video/hbNRfOxCRc4/video.html
I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport that when it warms up it stutters real bad and when you try to give it gas it pops back and won't go anywhere. I went to Autozone and had the codes read and it came up with 2 codes a P0403 and a P0115, does anyone have any idea what would cause this? Because I don't believe it is the EGR or the Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit that would cause this. Please help.
EGR Vacuum Solenoid: make sure it’s connected and hoses are properly connected/ installed. EGR: The EGR valve helps lower the car’s exhaust emissions (gases from the tailpipe). It recirculates the portion of the gasses coming out of the engine by putting in back into the intake manifold, where the engine can burn it again, thereby reducing the emissions. EGR solenoid and EGR valve are 2 different parts. As for P0115 make sure you have coolant in your radiator and reservoir. If your reservoir has coolant your radiator might be low on coolant ..
@@RookieRepairs I know this is a year old comment, but keeping the coolant topped off wont solve the P0115 code, because the code is from the coolant temp sensor, specifically a circuit malfunction. Could be the sensor itself failed, open or shorted circuit/connector or ECM issues. These "could be's" are pulled straight from Alldata.
Can you tell me what code you had to replace that. I have P0105 and cant figure whats wrong. Already replaced idle control valve and tps and map sensor still hard start and stalls. When pressing gas it dies until it heat up than fine.
Inspect the vacuum lines and electrical connector and wiring for the sensor (hoses or connection may be cracked or damaged). Disconnect the electrical connector and then reinstall to insure a fresh electrical connection. Most importantly check for vacuum leaks, loose hoses and clamps on the air intake What else have you done or work on this car (after or before this code)? Have you clean throttle body? If so did you move/ loosen the throttle body wire? If so just adjust the wire Have you clean EGR valve?
@@RookieRepairs So I Cleaner the throttle body. Than inspected all hoses seems on. Reinstalled new MAP sensor than put new TPS but i know you have to adjust it somehow and i could not find anyone on youtube adjust it so i did my best the car seems to struggle at 2200 rpm and slow response. I did adjust the cable it was all saggy and made it just enough but not so the car doesnt idle high. I have a OBD II scanner and TP is only 42% on full open i thought it was suppose to be 100 but no idea. I really dont know now what to do with it. I head it could be a problem with PCM on this particular year and model doest happen often but i guess it does. IT seems that I replaced MAP,TPS, IDLE control sensor and nothing seems to change. This is what it came up once it started to P0105 and what could of been nothing changed if I replaced those parts. Seems i just wasted over 300 on nothing. I did not clear EGR i just cleaner the throttle body.
@@atlant2566 Is this the only code you are getting? Have you tested the connection for the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor with a volt reader? After you replaced this did you reset the computer by removing negative terminal for 1-2 minutes? With the scanner: Turn the ignition on and engine OFF- MAP sensor should have 4volts and Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor should both match... If they are the same (matching) Next: Freeze Frame Live data of MAP sensor (if scanner allows)- At idle MAP should show a voltage between 4.5 - 5 volts as for TPS also at idle should read less than 1 volt. As the throttle opens (press on gas pedal) the reading will increase to 4.5 volts (or almost matching the MAP sensor)
you're the best...gracias!
great videos! cheers from Venezuela
Nice nice! Thank you for watching and thank you for your support...
Amazing Job!
Thank you.
No problem, I’m glad you found this video helpful
Hi bro, first of all i want to say that you channel is awesome , very good montero sport repair list. I see that you are pretty familiar with that car and i have the same with an issue i cannot resolve for a long time. Its exactly the same 3.0 177hps with automatic gearbox. The issue i have is when the car is warmed up and i fully stop with the brake pedal depressed and engaged in D the car randomly shakes when idling. If i move it to park and let it idle it doesnt shake at all there are no trouble codes ( i ahve new sparks plugs, cables and new maf sensor all is the same). The strange thing is that there are no trouble codes or any sign when im traveling , but when im fully stopped on D and with warmed up engine it shakes randomly. Im starting to wonder if i have bad egr solenoid which is about to fully fail but still manages to engage and disengage randomly.
I will be very thankful if you happened to know whats causing it or any tip or guidance will be much appreciated.
Thank you for your gr8 videos
I would start of with cleaning all the following: Mass Air Flow Sensor, Throttle Body, Idle Air Control Valve- I sold my Montero I wish I could have made more videos to help
Also have you replaced your motor and transmission mounts?
Here’s a video on a Mitsubishi Eclipse I had idling issues with it and fixed it- I hope this helps.
czcams.com/video/hbNRfOxCRc4/video.html
Can you tell me what the black piece behind the egr valve solenoid?
👌
I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport that when it warms up it stutters real bad and when you try to give it gas it pops back and won't go anywhere. I went to Autozone and had the codes read and it came up with 2 codes a P0403 and a P0115, does anyone have any idea what would cause this? Because I don't believe it is the EGR or the Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit that would cause this. Please help.
EGR Vacuum Solenoid: make sure it’s connected and hoses are properly connected/ installed. EGR: The EGR valve helps lower the car’s exhaust emissions (gases from the tailpipe). It recirculates the portion of the gasses coming out of the engine by putting in back into the intake manifold, where the engine can burn it again, thereby reducing the emissions. EGR solenoid and EGR valve are 2 different parts. As for P0115 make sure you have coolant in your radiator and reservoir. If your reservoir has coolant your radiator might be low on coolant ..
@@RookieRepairs I know this is a year old comment, but keeping the coolant topped off wont solve the P0115 code, because the code is from the coolant temp sensor, specifically a circuit malfunction. Could be the sensor itself failed, open or shorted circuit/connector or ECM issues.
These "could be's" are pulled straight from Alldata.
I have code p0403 on my 2002 sebring 3.0.. would this cause the car to over heat when accelerating
Que falla tiene al no funcionar esa pieza ?
Can you tell me what code you had to replace that. I have P0105 and cant figure whats wrong. Already replaced idle control valve and tps and map sensor still hard start and stalls. When pressing gas it dies until it heat up than fine.
Inspect the vacuum lines and electrical connector and wiring for the sensor (hoses or connection may be cracked or damaged). Disconnect the electrical connector and then reinstall to insure a fresh electrical connection.
Most importantly check for vacuum leaks, loose hoses and clamps on the air intake
What else have you done or work on this car (after or before this code)?
Have you clean throttle body? If so did you move/ loosen the throttle body wire? If so just adjust the wire
Have you clean EGR valve?
@@RookieRepairs So I Cleaner the throttle body. Than inspected all hoses seems on. Reinstalled new MAP sensor than put new TPS but i know you have to adjust it somehow and i could not find anyone on youtube adjust it so i did my best the car seems to struggle at 2200 rpm and slow response. I did adjust the cable it was all saggy and made it just enough but not so the car doesnt idle high. I have a OBD II scanner and TP is only 42% on full open i thought it was suppose to be 100 but no idea. I really dont know now what to do with it. I head it could be a problem with PCM on this particular year and model doest happen often but i guess it does. IT seems that I replaced MAP,TPS, IDLE control sensor and nothing seems to change. This is what it came up once it started to P0105 and what could of been nothing changed if I replaced those parts. Seems i just wasted over 300 on nothing. I did not clear EGR i just cleaner the throttle body.
@@atlant2566 Is this the only code you are getting? Have you tested the connection for the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor with a volt reader? After you replaced this did you reset the computer by removing negative terminal for 1-2 minutes?
With the scanner: Turn the ignition on and engine OFF- MAP sensor should have 4volts and Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor should both match...
If they are the same (matching) Next: Freeze Frame Live data of MAP sensor (if scanner allows)- At idle MAP should show a voltage between 4.5 - 5 volts as for TPS also at idle should read less than 1 volt. As the throttle opens (press on gas pedal) the reading will increase to 4.5 volts (or almost matching the MAP sensor)