2008 Suzuki GSXR-1000 | The Best Upgrades! EP01
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- čas přidán 1. 05. 2022
- Finally I've gathered the parts to start upgrading the K8 GSXR-1000. In this first episode I attempt to sort out the brake judder with some new Moto-master brake disks and pads, plus Venhill lines.
Moto-Master Brakes via - www.hocoparts.co.uk
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Bigger front sprocket will do the opposite, it makes the gearing taller so better for cruising (lower RPM) but worse pickup in any given gear. Smaller front or larger rear sprocket needed unless I have totally misunderstood your requirement.
Correct,dont install the front gear unless you want more top end and less acceleration!
Yes sorry, it is indeed a smaller front. My mixup when talking about it 👍
Correct smaller sprocket on front, but only do this on a 600cc. 1000cc have enough grunt if kept above 4000rpm.
I though he said that round the wrong way.
Yep opposite of bicycles
Good updates to the bike. You want a bigger rear sprocket or smaller front sprocket (or both) to improve acceleration.
If brakes are binding and spongy, almost certain that you just have some air still in the system. If calipers were drained during the process, check Haynes/workshop manual for correct process. For example, you may need to angle one/both calipers to allow trapped air to flow back up to the bleed nipple/master cylinder.
I once sent several hours with a VFR800FI trying to bleed a newly refurbished set of calipers. I got to point of being convinced that I needed a pressurised bleeding system. I called a Honda main dealer and spoke to a senior mechanic - he reassuringly told me that he'd never needed to use a pressurised bleeding system in 20yrs and advised me to read the workshop manual... turns out that he was right of course. I had to detach the secondary master cylinder and hold it at 15 degrees to allow trapped air to flow out of it. Then the other bleed nipples had to be done in a specific order.
I did this and got a firm brake lever with just normal bleed hoses in the end. Lesson learned!
Great video chopsy! Totally loving the story as it unfolds over the weeks and months. I think by the time your finished with this bike it will be something special, I can see you doing more and more to it over the years!
Love these vids Chopsy.... and good to see that it doesn't always go to plan for you professionals either! Keep up the good work fella 👍
Good video Chops. I have one of those hand brake pumps. For about £10 I replaced the hand pump with a 12v air pump run off a battery. Now the only thing difficult about brake bleeding is keeping enough fluid in the reservoir as it sucks the old fluid out. Well worth the upgrade!
👍Sounds like a great collection of improvements! Have a wonderful day.
Handy Hint: Stick a cable-tie on the brake lever & leave overnight. Having the braking system under pressure for several hours helps to get rid of them pesky air bubbles that bleeding alone doesn't shift - as the little buggers rise up & join their friends in the M/C air gap. 👍
Yep that's what I do! Works well for me!
Yes, works perfect
Does this work with a radial master cylinder? There is a bleeder on the master cylinder, so I think there is a high spot in the system before it hits the reservoir. One spring I came out to my Kawasaki and the lever would pull all the way to the grip. I tried bleeding at the calipers, but I found out that I also needed to bleed at the master cylinder. My system was never empty.
@@alanhassall I have radial master cylinders on both my bikes (now): and I do indeed bleed them after the calipers. Even so, I always stick a cable-tie on the lever overnight - and the brakes are superb. Give it a go & see what ya think! 👍
@@missydee6085 Speedbleeders make a big difference for me. The check valves and sealant on the threads make bleeding so easy.
Good tip in bouncing the front forks before doing up the pinch bolts..
Nice upgrades . You’ve got air still in system. I upgraded my SX rear end with a Brembo calliper, had to take it off and flip it over as Nipple is on the bottom to bleed. Works fine now .
Thanks for putting the ti parts in the description! Awesome video man. New sub. I just have a 600 but it’s been a blast to learn to ride proper bike and wrench on.
Nice chops. You’ve gone all out on that. I miss my old K5 GSXR 1000. My first proper bike
Great update video, hope you get it sorted
Two up on the rear 44 teeth from the 42 standard on the 06 made big difference to acceleration,, really enjoying this series,, most of us cannot afford the h2 and the gsxr is more real world,, brilliant video,, my lever didn't re seat and kept pressing the piston on the mastercylinder,, caused awful problems,, check its seating,, from Northern Ireland great series john☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️
Great video...really enjoyed that one
Another great vid on the gsxr Mr Chops even thou it didn't go as well as it could of.... can't wait for the next installment 😉
Love these garage video's Chops. I must admit that I've always been a GSXR fan from way back in the 80s when I got my very first GSXR 400 (Japanese import) .
Regarding your brake issue where it took age's to bleed the system........I had the exact problem with my kawasaki ZX7 R and after many hours of cursing and hitting my head against a brick wall, it turned out that it was indeed the master cylinder, which I replaced .👍 Funny thing is when I examined the old one I couldn't see any visible defects.
Great video again Chops 👏 😊
Thanks Dean appreciated buddy 👍
Mate my friends will love and appreciate this video 🤟
Fun & games Chops although good to see it slowly coming together despite a few hiccups. I also imagine if you hadn't replaced the master cylinder now, it would have always been in the back of your mind to do it anyway so may as well get the brakes completely sorted now & move on to the next bit. Looking forward to the next vid.
Yes exactly, MC isn't my only problem but it's certainly going to be 1000 times better once fitted 👍
I have the rcs 19 on my K7 and it made a huge difference!
A reet tasty set of upgrades to the bike there! In terms of the brake bleed, I had problems with my mate's bike recently where we couldn't get it hard (Ooer!). We finally noticed the bleed nipple on the MC and bled that too - the lever went instantly hard and the brakes have been perfect since. You've probably already done that, but worth a shot if you haven't....
Enjoyed this LCR with some good funny moments......good luck with the house move!
Thanks Iain 👍
Bleed them with the old pads in. Then replace the pads. New pads push the pistons right back, trapping air in a very small cavity and it can't escape. Old pads make this cavity bigger, giving the air pockets chance to get out.
Sounds counter- intuitive, but it works for me. Worth a shot.
Atb
👍. Loved my gsxr when I had it. Wish I had some of your mechanical skills.
Buy the M/C - I too had one of these K7/8's.
changed brake lines, pads and discs.
after much guffery, sweating, swearing and bleeding time and time again, I would get good braking feel and performance at the lever but nothing ever stellar.
on track days I would be bleeding the front brakes by mid day and doing the same again the week after.
I sold my bike around the same time the recall came out but I know the master cylinders were the weak point on these bikes.
That Healtech X-TRE device should be quite the treat once you get it installed. I have one on my GSF1250S and it made gears 1-2 much more responsive down low and really changed the way the bike gets going at low speeds. In conjunction with that I removed the secondary throttle plates to eliminate ECU changing throttle input and it's now fully rider controlled (wrist) which makes even more difference in how the bike accelerates and responds.
Moving on up!!!
❤❤❤
Good to see that your putting a Translogic shifter on, cracking bit of kit…
Hi there, always follow your channel love the content. There are a few things that might help here. Firstly rotating the those pistons inside the calipers will mess with the internal seals. You will now probably need to strip down the calipers and replace the seals. As long as the pistons slide in and out freely and are not binding, is all thats needed. As to not getting a solid brake leaver after bleeding. I find using a vacuum pump to draw hydraulic fluid through the dry system initially does get everything moving but there is a tendency for a vacuum pump to introduce air into the system a little at the bleed nipple. Therefore after using the vacuum pump then bleed conventionally with the brake leaver locking off to prevent air getting into the system. Hope this help and looking forward to the next episodes re the modifications.
Thanks Richard I think I've messed the seals.. I've ordered a rebuild kit 👍
Just as I was starting to get seriously impressed with your brake servicing and spannering skills - infact I was going to ask about your hourly rate to do mine - you cocked it up at the end just as I would have done....I know that feeling only too well!! Great vid, thoroughly enjoyed it, especially the fancy editing before the test ride.....nice work Chopsy!
Haha yeah 🤣 I was feeling rather pleased with myself until that point 🤣
Keep at it Chopsy.
Good video I hope the new master cylinder does the trick for you.
Shall watch this on the way to work.
Nice one chops it seems your not all glam like Andy aka M.Flyer 😂😂😂joking Andy 👍🇦🇺
Picked up a translogic QS for my r6 last week. It had a Healtech fitted but I don't like it. Translogic seems way more advanced in every way, cant wait to get it on
Great vid chops 👍 be good to see if you solved that brake issue.
I have a 2011 R1 with twin 6 pot calipers and now that I have fitted a Brembo RCS19 master cylinder, it stops beautifully.
the binding will normally go away after a couple of hundred miles, and to reduce the brake lever sponge as some others probably mentioned you should tied it up with a zip tie over night...
Yep was going to say! Worked for me back in the day!
Bleed the master cylinder mate…. 👌👌
I just love these kind of videos with all the candy on the table! Great upgrades, well worth it!
To fix the brakes not getting firm I would highly recommend reverse bleeding the lines. Fill up your syringe with brake fluid and shoot it through the bleeder on the caliper back up towards the master cylinder. Every time I've changed brake lines this has been the only way that has worked for me. This will get the brakes 80-90% of the way there. Then bleed it traditionally for a minute or two and it should be perfect.
I love Chopsey!
Chops I think you have made a few mistakes you have washed solvent in to the calliper piston area . I suggest you order piston seal kit, remove and clean pistons, then on the bench remove seals from callipers and give seating grove a very good clean. Replace piston seals using a tiny dab of piston seal grease in seating grove and on seal, just a smear don’t over do it. Re fit pistons and ensure original location for each is maintained. Reassemble callipers and pads. Fill master and start bleed process and I suggest the open close valve method as you pump master easy but slow and as you allow the brake lever to return give it a gentle slight pump action until fully returned. To remove any air left in system tie wrap brake on over night and the pressure will force air back up in to the master cylinder. Remove cap just to double check all ok and re fit. Do not change master until you have brakes working in the correct manner or trust me you will fall in to the trap of chasing your tail by trying to cure an exiting problem with a modification.remember the brakes functioned to a reasonable standard before you worked on them. Oh yes as others have already stated smaller front sprocket required to lower gearing. Keep the good work and remember the only person who doesn’t make mistakes doesn’t do anything. Cheers Ade
Yes I think you are right.... going to revisit the calipers before installing the RCS MC 👍
@@LambChopRides Chops a few words of advice to help fix your binding brakes. If you replace piston seals as per my recommendation in previous mail then do not twist piston as you refit as this can cause it to grip and bunch or twist seal preventing its design intent to flex the piston off the disc. I think this is what you inadvertently caused when you washed solvent and brake dust over seals and then applied twisting motion leading to sticking you now experience. Hope this helps and keep up the vids always interesting Cheers Ade Pavey
Fitting the new discs and pads, then going for a test ride might have helped you isolate the judder situation rather than changing too much in one go. Hindsight I know but better to understand the cause and eliminate it rather than potentially introduce more problems. Hope you get it all sorted soon.
Yes good news is judder is completely gone!! 🤪
Just a couple of things I do chops is to fit a bleed nipple banjo bolt at the master cylinder as it’s always best to bleed at the highest point. If you don’t want to go to that, then suspend the callipers above the master cylinder and bleed (can be awkward) as that has the same effect
Yes it has a bleed point on the MC but didn't help! I though perhaps the air was trapped in the cross over cable but sucking pumping couldn't shift it... Good call on holding the caliper up 👍
Hi there buddy
Just watched your brake upgrade video
I'm a heavy plant fitter who plays around with 4 suzukis in the shed at weekends
Going back to your brakes binding
They were binding because you put brake cleaner on the calipers and it got into the dirt or wiper seals and when brake cleaner touches caliper seal components it affects the rubber and it swells up hence the calipers not being able to retract and float.
All the best bo bever
Thanks Buddy, yeah new seal kit here awaiting fitted now as I think you're right 👍
Bloody hell I feel for you 😤
Chopsy - probably best to have coated the brake pistons/seals with brake fluid when pushing them back in, brake cleaner can cause drag. I love this series 🙂👍🙂👍
Yes perhaps my problem! ☹️
Was thinking that myself
I have an RCS master cylinder on my bike (also a k7 1000) fore the look I also put an rcs clutch on there but if you wanna do that you'll need an extra clutch sensor!
P.s the binding issue is likely to to be related , caliper seals roll slightly when pressure is applied, then pull the pistons back slightly when pressure is released!! Probly a good idea to have stripped those caliper completely and cleaned/ inspected them properly, half a job leaves too many questions when you hit problems!!… good luck!!
I have a 4900 mile 07 with the exact same front master issue. going radial brembo.
Those Moto Master discs look very nice, I have Chinese discs on my ZX9r Arashi, made very well and work a treat. I know you love your lighter fasteners, a little tip that you may know, go titanium as you did on bolts that need to be very strong, on others go Aluminium, they are still resistant to corrosion and are even lighter than titanium, but if you do need stainless A2 or A4, let me know I sell them online 👍
I hope the master fixes it, it must be restricted, but then you'd expect the lever to go stiff. Maybe remove the calliper's one at a time and gently squeeze so the pistons moves out slightly, and check they all retract when you let go. If not one of the seals may be gone and binding, stopping them going back and holding the pads tighter on the discs as you use them.
Another way that might confirm it's this is pump the lever a lot and see if the discs are binding more and more, possibly preventing the wheel moving at all. Each side would be unfortunate, but I've experienced a seized master, and seized callipers due to dust seals going bad before so know exactly what that is like, glowing red hot brakes is not good, hope it is easy to sort though.
Yes sure that's the problem with piston not retracting.. going to have another look
Good video, I have now got the absolute horn for a brake piston removal tool on Amazon for £46. Thanks
Haha, think this one was way cheaper Christian I'm too tight to spend that much 🤣
amazing video!! I have exactly the same bike I have also fitted the translogic quick shifter and omg best thing I have ever done, interested to know what you make of it compared to the ones in the other factory more expensive quick shifters!!
Will do 👍
I totally agree, have the same bike too. And an old Translogic QS2 quick shift, works like a dream 👍🏾
The master cylinder have air loosen the bolt up there where the line start get the air out and you be fine.classic problem after line change
OK good tip 👌
I had the same problem, after changing to braided lines and replacing the pistons on my SV650S, I had to use grease on the pistons, not putting it in dry like you did, it fixed the pressure point. The new seal kit came with grease which I did not use first (I only used brake fluid to grease it). What I did then was, to push out the pistons as far as possible, before they fall out and use a shoelace to put a thin layer of grease around the pistons, then I pushed the pistons back into the calipers. I think it is a special type of grease for brake maintenance, which came with the seal kit and you should use it to grease the new seals. When you use brake cleaner on the calipers, it may remove all the grease.
Red rubber grease 👍
It doesn't affect the rubbers / seals
@@AxleCC The grease was red, indeed!
X-tre worked crazy good on my Hayabusa2009 when I had it. Made it a monster.
If the recall hasn’t been done Suzuki should still do it. I’m sure I’ve seen video of one being replace under warranty on Als GSXR on 44 Teeth.
Worth checking with Suzuki dealer.
While I think it's a good plan to upgrade the master cylinder to get better feel, I don't think it will fix a binding issue. Binding brakes would be more likely be swollen seals in the calipers.
Absolutely this, it'll be the calipers. That system just isn't right somewhere and a new MC won't cure it.
Yes I think you are right Ian... I'm thinking I've dried out the seals. I'm going to remove the calipers and take another look 👍
@@LambChopRides Hiya Chops, I hope the garage upgrade's gone swimmingly. Just thought I'd mention that Wavey Dave Hewson (AKA Obsession Engineering) said he doesn't use our favourite brake cleaner on pistons - as they adversely affect the seals. He uses GT85 & a toothbrush, but other top technicians use soapy water instead. I personally do the latter & use a smear of red rubber grease on the pistons (once they're clean & dry). Our rouge chum certainly makes pushing them into the bores easier & keeps the seals happy too.
In my experience, the seals often prevent pistons from free movement due to a build up of crap in the seal-retaining recess(es). I use a dremel with a narrow nylon brush attachment & an angled pick to remove any accumulated detritus: allowing the seals to regain their intended working tolerance.
Nice work Mr chops.
Shame you didn't diagnose the brake judder before throwing the kitchen sink at it. It could have been something simple as the pads. Judder at the lever could be the disks and a slow sensation of judder from the front tyre as you gradually come to a stop can be brake disc compound
Great stuff thou 👍👍
A bike after my own heart, 255 psi wo a port job and cam👍
Oh my word what are you like? Have you ever tried pulling the brake leaver back to the handle bar, and locking it off in that position, leave the master cylinder cap off, leave it over night. Most if not all the air makes it's own way out. Its the only I can do the front brake on my 1150! Good luck on your mission! 👍🏍💨💨
Will try that Murt 👍
I own the same bike and have upgraded the brake lines to race braided front and back. I have also done the Suzuki recall for the master cylinder. The old master cylinder was taking on water over a long period of time and would need bleeding to keep the fluid fresh. Over time the lever would work its way back to the bar if the fluid was not changed, this = Suzuki recall. I own four bikes and have rebuilt the brakes on all four of them. Your k8 GSXR needs nothing bar braided brake lines, good discs and clean calipers to have brilliant brakes. Your brakes are still not bled, have you got pressure in the brake system? Unscrew the cap on the master cylinder again and be sure to put a towel under it before doing so. Good luck with it.
Thanks buddy for the reply 👍
The master cylinder recall was for gas being generated within the master cylinder due to a rusting rod - the gases caused a "spongey feel" - seeing as you've just bled the brakes that shouldn't affect anything - before I caught up with getting the recall done on my 1000 K5 I simply bled the master literally for a couple of pumps - and all was good for a few more weeks? Cheers.
Just bought a k6 1000 🙌
I think you have an air lock in the hose over the mud guard chops
I have just bought K9 GSXR-1000, fresh discs, new pads, steel lines and then my brake feeling is strange in comparison to my 2008 Kawasaki ZX6R. Brake lever goes deep, stopping power is good though. I'm thinking about new master pump. Anyway, great bike 😁
Get a brembo rcs19.
You can always move it to your next bike.
When I bled my bike with the radial master cylinder, I had to bleed at the nipple on the master cylinder in order to remove the air there as well as at the calipers.
Rather you than me John, Brakes are a black art, they shouldn't be, but they are, I have always found that you need to replace everything in the braking system at once to avoid loads of issues. Expensive but hassle-free.
A few things chopsy, first take those pistons out and coat them in a little brake fluid,
Secondly - try back bleeding the brakes, take that syringe you mentioned and put it on the caliper nipple with a hose and slowly push the fluid up the system that way the air travels to the highest point as an engineer of 20 years this is the method I have used for a long time now and never had poorly bled brakes
I've got the same bike, loving mine, although mine has stock break setup, sintered pads with braided lines and I get it doing stoppies with one finger, wonder what's causing the break issue? Look forward to seeing if the new master cylinder does the trick!
Quick tip adjust front brake lever to number one this helps bleeding brakes also take off left calliper and hang it down by offside calliper this helps bleeding as fluid does not have to go uphill
Yes good tip, I did do that 👍
I fitted a brembo master cylinder from a v2 DUCATI and they are so much better.
Little tip air air will rise un bolt the calipers and let them hang.
Put spaners in place of the discs and pump them up over night.
Then let the air out.
A quick tip for you, if you ever have to change brake discs again leave the wheel on its tyre and not the side and you can put a bit of pressure on it it stop the wheel turning and i find it a lot easier to crack the bolts loose. Why dont you just rebuild the original master or is your heart set on the brembo
If you do decide to replace the master cylinder and want to save some cash, you can still get it done by Suzuki under the recall. I got mine done 2 weeks ago on a k5 750.
I could be wrong but I would be looking at callipers sticking rather than the master cylinder causing the brakes to bind.
Invest in a pressure bleeder and it will only take a few minutes to bleed your brakes
Hey chops u should use that as a intro to every review of get your riding gear on to ride new motorbikes that's cool
Yeah thought about that 👍👍
There won't be anything wrong with your front master cylinder, well not likely anyway, you will still have an air bubble in the master cylinder, it's messy to fix it but will work, if the master cylinder doesn't have a bleed nipple on it you can use the brake banjo bolt on the cylinder. It's easier if you loosen the bolt off first but pull the lever then back the banjo bolt off a little and bleed as you would a caliper, when the lever hits the bar nip the banjo bolt up and let the lever out and go again, it's messy so have something to catch the fluid, top up the master and bleed the calipers next, you will then have a lever as good as new. The calipers are dragging because the air is getting warm and expanding forcing the pistons out. Good luck and hope this helps.
To get your brake bled properly you need to crack the banjo bolt at the mastercylinder first mate if you look it will be the highest point and tends to trap air if you get good pressure there then you will be able to bleed down at the calipers in no time. Seems to be a big thing going around at the minute with people saying you shouldn't use brake cleaner to clean brake calipers as it dries out the seals, have used it for years and never had any problems but I can see why people think this, maybe a little brake fluid or gt85 around the seals after cleaning may help buy not much as it will only attract dirt and cause bigger problems. P.s you need a smaller front sprocket not a bigger one. Bigger on the rear for improved response.
Yes did it there many times, started there 👍
The tweaks never stop 😀. How did you find the Venhill vacuum tool ? Got the same one abs used first time today. Can get it to hold pressure when over the nipple. Tried all attachments too 🙁
How does a larger front sprocket increase torque? Shouldn't it be smaller?
Look at your mountain bike.
yes it should be smaller...its not a mountain bike
@@stinkerdoodle1737 the principe is the same. If in doubt look at your mountainbike. Smaller is more torque.
Yes I mean smaller front, surprised mavis didn't correct me 🤣
Hi Chops, I also use the Venhill vacuum brake bleeder, I saw in the video that you used the vacuum pump fitted directly onto the caliper, in the instructions with the kit, it shows you have to use the small nylon pot filled with a bit of brake fluid in it between the caliper and the vacuum pump, (their are arrows on the nylon pump to show you which direction to fit it) otherwise you will, (might) suck the fluid into the vacuum pump, which will do both the pump and your wallet no good at all!.
No that was attached Neil, just a long pipe in between 👍
Hi Chops, sorry for that, it was hard to see the pot on the video, did you fill the nylon pot with a bit of fluid, also the small nylon tube in the kit has to be fitted onto the underside of the lid so it is submerged into the fluid when you activate the pump. I have also had trouble when using the pump now and again and all it needs is a bit of Vaseline smeared on the small rubber ring on the nylon pot seal, that then makes the pump create a bit of vacuum, cheers neil.
I had same problem on my gsxr750 L0 after replacing to hel lines bought a rcs19 and caliper rebuild kit and it turned out to be sticky pistons on the dust seals on the caliper
I’m interested to hear about the power box once you fix your brake problem.
I fitted a simple TRE to two of my bikes and could not notice any difference?
I went to Strandhill Sligo for an ice cream and watched your brake vid. This is hard work Chopsey, but someone has to do it. I fitted an RCS 19 to the Yam 👍🌋🏔🏍🏍🇮🇪
Great video Chops!
Sending love to the Family #permissiontotorque
😍👍
Great give us more smc-r and gsxr content !! Surprised that you go for the PC and not an ecu flash? I have installed HM plus SS on my K6 and it works great on all engine speeds, do not think there are any better quickshifters out there. I got my master cylinder replaced for free at recall, and it now works great. I think you just have to make a call to get it done, I did!
Just made things easier Knut, didn't have to mess about taking it anywhere
@@LambChopRides you will have to run a auto tune with the power vision probably just to smooth things out
Short term satisfaction! You will always have it in the back of your mind that the result could be even better. Do it proper!
Did you align the calipers to the discs? Dave Moss does a video on it.
Great video! Hope you can get that two car garage, good luck!🍻
Yup showed his tricks in my last vid 👍
@@LambChopRides I’m sure you’ll get it figured out.✌️
Great video Chopsy, any technical reason for going the “piggy bag” way with Powercommander and TRE, instead of a ECU flash. Which could solve it all?
Or is it sponsored goodies 😁
Brembo 19x20mm front master cylinder and brakes are transformed.
Hi, any news on episode 2 of the gixxer build and how you got the brakes sorted , looking forward to seeing it. Great vids as usual
Soon buddy and all sorted now 👍
Leo Vince did a half system 4 into 1 that got rid of the cat!!
Also Chops… Hope you misspoke and the front sproket is one tooth less than standard otherwise you are increasing the gearing (making each gear longer) and reducing the torque. It the rear sprocket you increase the number of teeth to do the same thing… one tooth less on the front is like 3 tooth more on the rear sprocket. 👍
I went 15t front and 44 teeth rear on my RSV4 Factory from 15t / 41t standard gearing as the first couple of gears were way to high for tight twist hairpin roads 👍
Yes indeed my mistake explaining, it is a tooth down 👍
sounds like you have trapped air in both calipors i have had it happen to me after fuid change, you cant bleed all the air out with the calipors on the normal mounts. I got a piece of wood to act as the disc, unbolted the calipors and held them at a different angle then bled them it released the trapped air and the pressure came back at the lever, i just then fitted them back to the normal mountings re-pumped the lever and all was good, trapped air will expand and cause your binding and brake drag. Good luck, worth a try, ian
If you got Steve Jordan in Bookham to map the ECU directly, you wouldn’t need that Power Commander or that Healtech box. Would have saved a load of money.
You are seriously patient or just dedicated or both.Hope you get sorted.Cheers.
Fill the calipers with brake fluid before putting the brake lines back on, then tie the lever in before filling the master cylinder, this will put fluid where it needs to be. If this doesn't help try reverse bleeding through the bleed nipple 🤔
Yes good tip that thanks 👍
Can you visibly see the pistons slightly retract when you release the lever ? The seal is a square section (as opposed to an o ring) and relies on pulling the pistons back in when pressure is off. If the seals are old and worn they will lose this ability, leaving the pistons out, rubbing and generating heat
I will check that 👍
Hey lambchops.a shido battery is a must
Don't try to use a vacuum pump to do the final bleed. Use it to get the fluid moving through the system but then revert to the old manual way with a tube on the bleeder valve down into fresh fluid and pump the brake lever, opening and closing the bleeder as necessary. Doing this applies line pressure in the hydraulics and cannot introduce air. The vacuum pump, on the other hand, can and does suck in air bubbles behind the bleeder valve, and you'll be chasing your tail for hours and hours with no luck!!! And replace your seals in the calipers BEFORE the new MC. It is not the cause of the binding! (But we know you really want a new MC anyway haha!!! :-)
Yes good tips Barry 👍
Bummer about the brakes…. I’ve had varied luck with the vacuum pumps and in most cases end up bleeding via a mix of gravity and the old method.