How to Rust Proof your Vehicle at Home like a Professional
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- How to apply an oil or wax spray to your vehicle like a professional, but at home. For this, I’m using my 2006 Dodge Ram as an example. Considering that I live in Canada where my truck is exposed to salt, I want to make this truck last as long as possible. Applying some form of an oil or wax spray is a great way of protecting your vehicle, this will help reduce the chance of components rotting out such as brake lines, fuel lines, floors, frames, rockers, etc. This also maintains the value of your vehicle when you decide to sell it. #rustproofing #autobody #dodgeram
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-pressurized oil/wax spray applicator gun
-wax/oil spray rust proofing solution
-mask
-gloves
-safety glasses
-tarp
-air compressor with pressure regulator
-bucket of hot water
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:36 Application Gun
01:48 Preparation
02:41 Cleaning up any Rust
03:10 Applicator Gun Setup
04:13 Applying the Coating
10:41 Coating when Done
Procedure:
Before applying the oil, I took my truck to the local carwash which heats their water, making the removal of any previous spray or dirt easily wash off. I also used my multi-purpose cleaner to spray the underside of the truck to help cut into the build-up. Let it dry for a couple of days.
I'm using an oil and wax hybrid mixed coating. I wanted something which would creep and penetrate seams like oil but has a thick self-healing non-drip coating like wax. I have a 3.8L can of coating, the container for the gun holds one liter, I used about 3L or 3.2 quarts in total on the truck. Ideally, it’s best to do this when it’s warm so the coating flows better. The day of the application was about 10C or 50F, to help the flow of the material, after filling the container, I placed it in a bucket of hot water.
For the air compressor setup, this is a 6 gallon compressor. I used the moisture separator on another regulator to remove any washer which may cause application issues. I found the pressure is best between 90 to 100 psi, however, this may vary depending on the fluid thickness.
Park your vehicle in an area where it doesn’t matter if you get any oil spray on the ground.
Using the cavity style wand, you’ll find various slots or holes created from when the frame was manufactured, insert the wand fully inside. Then squeeze the trigger, applying spray inside the frame while pulling the wand out at the same time. The speed at which you pull the wand out will depend on your pressure and fluid settings. Using the same hole, you can work ahead of the hole and to the back of the hole. Based on the wand length, this will depend on how far of an application it can apply. Continue doing this for the whole frame. If you’re working with a unibody vehicle, the same process can be applied to the vehicle's structure. While a unibody doesn’t have a frame such as this truck, you’ll still have subframes and enclosed structural components along the floor with possible rubber body plugs that can be removed to access the inner surfaces. Areas, where you do not want any coating applied, are the brakes, exhaust, and drive belts.
On body, starting with the front and working my way back. Remove the headlights, this allows for better access behind the front fenders going through factory holes in the body. Do this for any hidden structural components and behind any body panels. This application is done to the doors, hood, fenders, bedsides, tailgate, trunk, etc. Other lights can trim components that can also be removed to assist in the process.
Spray the exposed visible areas as the final step. This would be the underside of the floor, frame, cross members, brackets, springs, axles, the backside of steel bumpers, etc.
The coating will appear to have a wet finish once done, products will vary, some may drip, others won’t. For this particular product, do not drive the vehicle or let the coating get wet for 4hrs. Depending on how much your vehicle is driven, the thickness of the coating, product used, and environment, an application maybe required once a year, every other year, or it may last longer.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Amazon links for rustproofing gun shown in video:
USA: amzn.to/3sYAT3i
Canada: amzn.to/2YiBWNC
What if you just weld the holes in the frame and cover them?
@@josephandreuccetti7270 I'll be covering that in a future video. Currently putting it together, just waiting on some stuff for the video.
Is that gun a siphon feed or a pressure feed?
It's pressurized.
@@4DIYers Thanks
Super helpful. Thanks. Exactly the kind of instructional video I need. Right pace, right info, no BS.
Thank you so much!
Excellent video, no weord music or nonsensical talking or gibberish
Thank you so much!
100% . I like to use some thin oil in August then some chain bar oil and cooking oil in sept or October the cooking oil makes tac up after a few days done right and annually you truck will last . I just restored a 2011 f150 4x4 welded in new rockers and cab corners touched up paint re did brakes and new strut rebuild differential. I drilled several 1/2 holes in my rockers and new cab corners and pillars and sprayed them also and will be doing it annually the entire truck The job your doing is fantastic getting all the boxed sections awesome , you won’t get level of coverage if you farmed it out
Thank you for the kind words and sharing your experiences! It's definitely worth it, once that rust starts growing it's a nightmare to deal with.
Nicely Done!!
Thank you!
beautifully done
Thank you very much!
Wow a 2006 and its 2020. Obviously this really works wonders
Helps not being a farm truck or being exposed to gravel roads too. There's not many Rams like this with the original fenders and rockers too.
Very good video, thanks.
Thank you!
Nicely done video! Tip, Use a "Presto" electric crock pot to heat the oil to 100C then spray it on. Oil/wax mixtures spray beautifully at this HOT temperature. Use extreme caution not to burn yourself..
Thank you and great tip as well!
@@4DIYers Been doing this for 25 years! Heat is key...
You did a hell of a good job i only hope they do it this good at the Krown rust place thats where im taking my truck
Thank you! You maybe able to request them having to spray inside the frame. I don't believe they typically do that. Usually they have a window in their spray bay to watch when applying the coating.
@@4DIYers yeah i may just play the this video show em how its really done.
@@mvrdamonxy7942 krown are spraying in the frame.just make sure with them that its being done. Sometime their are in a rush and they cut corners.
@@mvrdamonxy7942 I personally just go at krown for the inside of my frame.i treat the rest with cosmoline
I've been spraying my truck in the same areas that you do. I just flush out the frame and body panels with water first a week before I spaying the material. Moisture activates salt. Dirt holds moisture.
Great tips and I totally agree.
Thank you !
No problem!
I’ve seen several of your CZcams’s thanks! What’s your current recommendation on a spray gun to apply Blaster Surface Shield? You didn’t mention the brand/make in this video; have a recommendation?
Thank you for the support! I haven't used Blaster Surface Shield personally, but the gun that was shown in the video can work for a variety of solutions, even paint. The link for it is in my video description and there should be a pinned common too.
Btw, I'm trying to figure out the quick connect fitting size? For the wand attachments. 1/4F? Not sure what style this is for the Lemmer. Not your standard air compressor or pressure washer. Any idea?
Thank you
No problem!
National Park Service uses a mixture of boiled linseed oil...candle wax. and mineral spirits...on EVERYTHING. There is a good video on it on here.
If it's a red Tacoma, it's my video lol. Linseed oil was commonly used as a protection from rust on planes too. It's even used in some industrial paints for structures.
@@4DIYers it was made by a high end restoration guy. I have watched 100 undercoating videos... the candle wax..linseed oil and mineral spirits has been my favorite so far.
@@4DIYers it was made by a high end restoration guy. I have watched 100 undercoating videos... the candle wax..linseed oil and mineral spirits has been my favorite so far.
Yeah I was just going to ask you where you got that spray gun from but I see it
have you try to paint your exhause with high temp paint ?
you don't need a fancy expensive spray gun. I just use a long nose wand style sprayer about $10.00, get some chain oil, thin it out will varsol and I get some candle wax. put it in a pot heat it up so its sprayable. for about $30.00 I can make about 8 litres or 2 gallons, enough for 2-3 cars
Great video. Just curious since your link for the gun in Canada shows a cost of over $500 with tax. Is this the cheapest option?
Thank you! Might be able to find another retailer who supplies it, but it's a pretty specific gun otherwise. Not many companies offer this style from what I've found.
Found this helpful. And very thorough. Thankyou
Although I have read that 2-3 coats is recommended. Can you speak to this at all? (Yes I realise this is quite a laborious process which is why I'm asking - if I went to that much trouble I'd want to know I was doing it right)
No problem and thank you for the kind words. 2-3 coats may depend on the product but it can get excessively thick which maybe a problem. I would recommend doing this every year instead. This year, I'll be applying oil instead as the wax will stay as a base coat and provide a strong protection, while the oil can soak into any areas where the wax maybe lacking or if the coating is removed off the surface.
@@4DIYers thankyou. Helpful.
But with regards to the oil, do you mean it can coat areas like tubing etc? (the stuff you were careful to avoid spraying?)
The oil would be applied to the same areas as the wax spray, just avoid the same areas.
@@4DIYers oh, ok. Thanks again 👍
@@4DIYers What should I use to spray my vehicle with oil? I have a big air compressor and a gravity fed paint gun but I don't want to destroy the gun using oil. I have quite a lot of used Mobil 1 to spray underneath but jot sure the best way to do it.
Can you share a link or information on the type of product you sprayed on your vehicle? Also that sprayer is no longer available on Amazon, the alternatives seemed very expensive for what they were, FYI.
Thank you
Hi Ed, I saw your comment. The product he used was wax based. He recently responded advising that he will "be applying oil instead as the wax will stay as a base coat and provide a strong protection, while the oil can soak into any areas where the wax maybe lacking or if the coating is removed off the surface."
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Would you have to redo all of those inner frame and body spots every year? Or just that final bottom portion?
I'll release another video in the upcoming weeks. This time around I used oil as a follow up over the wax.
what is the oil that you used? Wax/oil, where did you get this from?
I just wash the underside of my car at the do it yourself wash at least once a week or after a snowfall and salt coating on the road. Been working great.
I did the same when I had a car..but now I have a pick up, Im astounded by the number of `holes` in the frame. I have no idea why they are all there, but water gets in with ease.
When you apply the coating do you fully press the trigger? Or is there a trick to do with the "half-pull" air only feature?
Depends on how you have the gun setup, it has adjustments.
Hello Did you clean out inside rockers?
There’s plugs or original tape over the rear backside of rockers you can remove to wash them out before applying rust proofing. Thank you
You can but if they have plugs, they're most likely already clean inside.
Whew that’s a sweet spray gun. Got any more budget friendly suggestions?
After 6:00, I fitted my own 360 degree tip czcams.com/video/cZ6tBZ4aqYk/video.html It's not a pressurized gun and the solution I used there was thinner so it sprays easier. The pressurized guns are more specific for these types of coatings. You maybe able to find a cheaper option online, but just be careful with the cheapo brands. One model I was researching that was about half the price compared to the one in the video seemed to have quite a few bad reviews.
@@4DIYers Thanks, I can definitely see the value in buying the expensive gun vs paying $100-200 per vehicle every year.
G day from Ontario Wow If u hd to pay someone to do this it would cost 4-500.
Good job
Ths
What brand of oil/wax did you use? I have been using fluid film for the last few years.
He's previously used a mixture of linseed oil and wd40. Fluid film and cosmoline work great. I have used spray cans of rp342 and it's very easy.
I used Proform PF711. I've heard of using Fluid Film, never tried it myself though. As far as I know, Fluid Film is about double the price than compared to the stuff I used. Proform is also a Canadian company, so I'm not sure if it's sold outside of the country.
@@4DIYers I'm in Ontario but have never seen Proform PF711. Will have to check it out if the price is right vs Fluid Film.
Try CarQuest, that's where I bought mine and they seem to be a supplier for Proform. It was on sale a few weeks ago, might still be, $30 for the 3.78L can like I used in the video.
@@4DIYers Thanks!
I purchased the same kit, the nozles work great. Until I switch over to the flexible 360° wand, the oil just clumps out of the wand, it doesn't spray as a mist.
Any idea?
Most products need to be heated to properly spray through the noozle
Nice gun. I just saw the price on it. Pricy. Good job on staying ahead of rust.
Thank you. Yep, but it's worth it though. I'll be using it again this year so it'll have paid for itself.
@@4DIYers Yeah I bought the inexpensive TCP model a couple years ago. The one with the blue metal canister. Does a good job but the attachments could be better.
I just order Cosmoline for the wax coating - it's paraffin. Also I ordered an internal frame rust inhibitor spray - can't remember the brand.
Was it easteood internal frame
@@jasonfrance4927 yes Eastwood! Not sure if that does much since I still got rust. I used phosphoric spray also to convert the rust. But the problem is phosphoric acid will CREATE rust where there is no rust. Make sure to get Cosmoline Black because Cosmoline sells just their paraffin wax straight but it is orange like rust color. hahahaha. So then I found this laser welding engineer who designed a "chassis repair kit" for the same chassis frame! Took me awhile to find a mechanic who knew how to weld that on....Cuz I could not trust just relying on that Eastwood stuff - it really doesn't do much. And I couldn't remember what color paraffin - I had used both over the years. It's hard to tell about rust inside the chassis. I used a boroscope camera. Yeah then I used epoxy paint since that lasts longer I think then the wax. The wax gets brittle in the winter and then comes off in the car wash, etc. The ONLY Epoxy paint I could find in a spray can was for "appliance" Rustoleum. thanks
Hey I just bought a 2020 Durango also in Canada. Do I need to worry about rust proofing even though the truck is brand new?
If it's new, now is the best time to apply a form of rust protection. Many products are self healing, if any stone chips occur, they'll be immediately protected.
You mean to say the Dealership didn't try to screw you, $$$ on under coating your new truck please rust proof/oil your truck if you plan on owning it over 5yrs
Think of all that salt on the roads in winter
What is the rust inhibiting paint you use.. I feel overwhelmed with the options at Craptire and other places xD
Don't waste your time with CT, go to a John Deere dealer and get their implement paint. It's more expensive but great stuff! If you check out my Tacoma frame refinish and my gas tank leak repair, but of those had implement paint as well, but it's a can version instead where I mixed for a paint gun.
The break
The exhaust
And what was the last one you said you don't want to spray
Drive belts was the other thing he mentioned. I try to avoid the hoses too. Anything made of rubber.
What kind of rust proofing did you use? I may have missed it. Thank you!
He's previously used a mixture of linseed oil and wd40. Fluid film and cosmoline work great. I have used spray cans of rp342 and it's very easy.
It's Proform, model PF711. I'm not sure if they're sold everywhere though, as far as I know it's a Canadian brand. No problem, always happy to help!
@@4DIYers Thanks!! Love your Videos!
@@4DIYers do you have a link to this PF711 rustproofing stuff? I've found something from The Wrench Monkey, but Ill have to wait to call to get a price according to the page... or they have none left... :/
For others asking about the oil mixture used: He's previously used a mixture of linseed oil and wd40. Fluid film and cosmoline work great. I have used spray cans of rp342 and it's very easy.
This is something different than linseed oil. This is an actual off the shelf rust proofing coating, made by Proform, model PF711.
rp342 is Paraffin - that's what I used also.
Thought that in Canada everybody use Corrosion Free Rust Cure :)
The wand you are using in the video looks a lot longer than what came in the box. Did you buy a longer one or make your own?
Nope, that is the factory wand that came in the box.
@@4DIYers Thanks!!
You're welcome!
How often must this be reapplied?
Yearly
How does it compare to Fluid Film/Woolwax? Do you think for undercarriage it would be better to go with pure wax formula of Proform?
I haven't used Fluid Film, but I know it's very popular and people seem to like it. I have used Woolwax and it does a good job. But so far I prefer this stuff as it seems to have a great bond on the surface.
Do you think this gun would spray cosmoline or to thick?
Yes it should be able to.
Should you spray the engine area?
Yeah can, just be careful not to spray the engine.
Hello there , what kind of Anti Rust Liquid or Oil are you using Please ?
Proform model pf711
Whats the oil u useing
I'm a wax/oil hybrid spray from ProForm.
How come this video is all black in July 24, 2022? Did he get removed? I just finished 6 other videos. Strange?
The video is working fine, not sure what the issue may be.
@@4DIYers Google is the parent company and perhaps I was trying to watch the video, maybe they were downloading new tracking software. My junk email is 200+ with gutters to military crap all showing: google user……
I am sick of it! A lot of deleting going on over here! DK, out!
Can you tell us what the product name is please?
There's two types I work between, both are great. One is a dripless oil spray and the other is a wax and oil hybrid, both by Proform.
So in total it took you over a month to fully complete the undercoating..
A month? It can be done in a couple hours.
Just be aware that oils can cause swelling to rubber. Something to be mindful of.
Already mentioned in the video.
He clearly states to avoid rubber.
Who says you need a British Narrator for sufistication they didn't no this guy,,😂🤣😃
Thank you, greatly appreciated!
So you do this annually?
You can. Being that I have a good base now, I'll most likely follow up with oil this year.
1 gallon of 30w bar and chain oil mixed with 1 tube of Lucas red tacky grease is the ratio i use heated up in a big electric crockpot and spray it on hot with a undercoating gun.
The equipment is WAY TOO EXPENSIVE!
It's the best applicator gun you can buy which is used by professionals in the field.
Hey The spray gun kit isn’t that expensive but dealing with rotted out sheet metal and frames are major expense
Rolling your truck up on large 12x6 wood blocks will make this easier, if you don't have a lift.
Great tip, thank you for sharing!