I think if you press the Yellow Button on that Fluke meter, it will activate the Audible Beeper , when it's set on the OHM-METER setting. Then, you won't have to keep visually checking your meter. Good helpful video.
I found your videos very helpful, thanks. my first LS swap I went carb, was not sure if I wanted to try and get it all figured out. But I am ready to LS swap my 2003 Sonoma with a 4.8LS. Thanks for the info.
Thank you .... been wondering why there are so may videos showing how to build/modify a perfectly good oem harness for ls swap when one can just use the original fuse block and it's wires..... what you just did is my goal.... thank you.
A completely stock harness and fuse block works perfect, it's just more bulky. I think most of the hype is from people who charge $300 to rework harnesses trying to make it sound mandatory or your swap is gonna explode into flames. Nothing wrong with reworking a harness to clean it up, it's just not necessary if looks aren't a major concern.
New Sub here! I love your content and the way you explain the information is amazing! I just had a quick question, what exactly did you use to setup the mass airflow sensor on the throttle body?
The coupler came from the junkyard so I don't remember exactly, but it was either the rubber coupler from the end of a stock plastic intake tube, or it was from an aftermarket Speckter intake tube for a Silverado (I've grabbed a few of those from the junkyard too).
I don't think I've ever had to run wires into the dash/cabin from the PRNDL switch, it might be for a shift indicator. You might need to find a wiring diagram from the wiring harness donor vehicle and figure out those two circuits.
Hi I’m on this step in my build and I’m having a hard time locating the 3 wires you mentioned and the same with the fuel pump wire you did in your other video at it’s a 97 Sonoma with a 4.3 originally and donor engine is a 02 Gmc 2500hd
The '97 wiring might be a little different then the '94. The 94's used some 'legacy' Gen 1 parts even though it was the first year for the Gen 2 body style. Are the 3 wires you're having trouble finding the '97 S10 wiring or the '02 donor engine wires?
The '97 ignition switch is likely different then mine. All you need to do is find it on the steering column and use a meter to see which wire goes hot when the key is in the crank position. Then run that wire to the computer crank input. For the fuel pump I'm not using any of the S10 wiring, just straight from the LS fuse block to the fuel pump.
You just leave the transmission plug disconnected and bypass the neutral safety switch wiring by adding the clutch pedal into the starter circuit. As long as the computer is programmed for a Manual transmission the wiring harness doesn't need to be changed.
It only needs it if you use the stock fuse block / computer wiring for starter control. If you bypass the computer and just run the starter right from the ignition key the computer doesn't care and the wiring isn't needed. I just usually use the stock wiring method so the neutral safety switch works as it should. Either way works fine and there's no modification needed in the tune to use or bypass it.
The way I did it the stock S10 wiring feeds the +12V to the S10 ignition switch, so a hot C-7 wire wasn't necessary. You could do it either way. If you're using a universal hot rod type ignition switch then you could use C-7 wiring for the hot ignition wire to the switch. Either way works fine, the computer doesn't know if that wire is hot or not.
Crank signal goes from the key switch, to C1 fuse block connector, pin A3. From there the PCM does the rest and if it meets all the conditions (neutral safety, ect..) it will power the starter relay on the fuse block and send +12V to the starter using the stock starter wire on the C2 fuse block connector.
It all depends on the vehicle. I have other videos from this series where I connected all the factory gauges in the truck, but some vehicles are easier then others.
![LS Swap VATS removal using free programs PCM Hammer & Universal Patcher!!!!! [Full Tutorial] Ep.#1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5WlhOXcVqTI/mqdefault.jpg)
I just appreciate someone taking the time to share their knowledge. I hope to see more videos in detail like this. Gained another sub
Thank you for documenting all of this, definitely gained another sub. It’s nice to have an actual video showing all of this
Welcome!
I think if you press the Yellow Button on that Fluke meter, it will activate the Audible Beeper , when it's set on the OHM-METER setting. Then, you won't have to keep visually checking your meter.
Good helpful video.
Thanks for the info!
I found your videos very helpful, thanks. my first LS swap I went carb, was not sure if I wanted to try and get it all figured out. But I am ready to LS swap my 2003 Sonoma with a 4.8LS. Thanks for the info.
You can do it!
Great video series, bro. I am learning a lot, and I do very much appreciate that you took the time to post these!
Glad you like them!
I'm at this point in my swap. Donor was a 02 Silverado. Some of the pinouts on the fuseblock are different than what you have.
Correct, the 99-02 wiring harness and fuse block are similar but different from the 03-05 harness/block I used.
Wow the time it takes to figure all this out. Thanks for the video.
New subscriber , great content man. This info is invaluable
Welcome!
Thank you .... been wondering why there are so may videos showing how to build/modify a perfectly good oem harness for ls swap when one can just use the original fuse block and it's wires..... what you just did is my goal.... thank you.
A completely stock harness and fuse block works perfect, it's just more bulky. I think most of the hype is from people who charge $300 to rework harnesses trying to make it sound mandatory or your swap is gonna explode into flames. Nothing wrong with reworking a harness to clean it up, it's just not necessary if looks aren't a major concern.
Yooo, this video just helped me with my s10 ls wiring. Thanks💯
Glad I could help
Great info new sub here. Your cat was on point with the response lol.
Cat has a very particular set of skills, skills he's honed over a lifetime of being a cat.
New Sub here! I love your content and the way you explain the information is amazing! I just had a quick question, what exactly did you use to setup the mass airflow sensor on the throttle body?
The coupler came from the junkyard so I don't remember exactly, but it was either the rubber coupler from the end of a stock plastic intake tube, or it was from an aftermarket Speckter intake tube for a Silverado (I've grabbed a few of those from the junkyard too).
@@wilsworkshop Ah got ya, okay good to know! I’ll keep an eye out for them when I’m at the junkyard! Thank you!
Nicely done boss..
Thanks 👍
Did you have to delete your vats on ecu doing it this way I have a 96 4.3 s10 just purchased the 03 5.3 for with pedal and harness
You must delete vats for the car to run.
Thanks you your videos are so helpful but I do have question with the computer do you have to get the vats deleted
Yes, you always need to delete VATS unless you also swap in the BCM and do some wiring mumbo jumbo.
So I only need c1/ a3,a9,&c9 for it to start my engine come out a 04
Cool cat.you too
I’m currently 5.3 swapping my 2000 s10 2.2, by any chance will this process work exactly the same for me?
The purple and white wire on the neutral safety switch runs into the dash so when doing the wire harness it is cut where do you run that wire to.
I don't think I've ever had to run wires into the dash/cabin from the PRNDL switch, it might be for a shift indicator. You might need to find a wiring diagram from the wiring harness donor vehicle and figure out those two circuits.
Hi I’m on this step in my build and I’m having a hard time locating the 3 wires you mentioned and the same with the fuel pump wire you did in your other video at it’s a 97 Sonoma with a 4.3 originally and donor engine is a 02 Gmc 2500hd
Please help lol
The '97 wiring might be a little different then the '94. The 94's used some 'legacy' Gen 1 parts even though it was the first year for the Gen 2 body style. Are the 3 wires you're having trouble finding the '97 S10 wiring or the '02 donor engine wires?
@@wilsworkshop the s10 wires for the crank signal and the fuel pump signal wire
The '97 ignition switch is likely different then mine. All you need to do is find it on the steering column and use a meter to see which wire goes hot when the key is in the crank position. Then run that wire to the computer crank input. For the fuel pump I'm not using any of the S10 wiring, just straight from the LS fuse block to the fuel pump.
@@wilsworkshop you are using a 2005 harness and fuse block correct? I had read that 2002 and older do not use the ecm for cranking.
Would this method work on a 1970 cutlass
What would be needed to be done if it was a manual trans using the factory 5.3/4l60e harness?
You just leave the transmission plug disconnected and bypass the neutral safety switch wiring by adding the clutch pedal into the starter circuit. As long as the computer is programmed for a Manual transmission the wiring harness doesn't need to be changed.
Wonder if it's the same for a first gen
Should be the same for a later edition 1st gen.
What does the purple crank wire do? Does the computer need it or is it for the starter?
It only needs it if you use the stock fuse block / computer wiring for starter control. If you bypass the computer and just run the starter right from the ignition key the computer doesn't care and the wiring isn't needed. I just usually use the stock wiring method so the neutral safety switch works as it should. Either way works fine and there's no modification needed in the tune to use or bypass it.
You know something, you are a cool guy. Just saying.
So you don’t need to give C-7 A red wire hot at all times?
The way I did it the stock S10 wiring feeds the +12V to the S10 ignition switch, so a hot C-7 wire wasn't necessary. You could do it either way. If you're using a universal hot rod type ignition switch then you could use C-7 wiring for the hot ignition wire to the switch. Either way works fine, the computer doesn't know if that wire is hot or not.
@@wilsworkshop Got it! THANK YOU for the info, I ran it exactly how you showed us and fired up right away. 😀
Do you have a file that diagrams the fuse block plug wire locations? Thanks
I usually just google it then click Images for the fuse blocks. Just search for whatever year you're using and "Tahoe" and they come up.
Do I need to power c9 if I'm running a manual transmission?
Wat kinda truck u have and wat year it is
1994 Sonoma
ABm S10 - 1995 - LS1
It's a 1994, a 1995 should be the same or similar.
Got a question where did you run the crank Signal to
Crank signal goes from the key switch, to C1 fuse block connector, pin A3. From there the PCM does the rest and if it meets all the conditions (neutral safety, ect..) it will power the starter relay on the fuse block and send +12V to the starter using the stock starter wire on the C2 fuse block connector.
I have a 2.2 s10 i daily drive right now. Its a 98 and i have an aluminum 5.3 from an 09 truck. Wondering best route for an ecu and wiring
For an 09 you'll need the Gen 4 computer and wiring, usually a bit more expensive then Gen 3 stuff.
10 4 i kind of figured. Thanks for the reply!
Is there anyway to wire the ls harness stand alone and still havr functioning factory gages?
It all depends on the vehicle. I have other videos from this series where I connected all the factory gauges in the truck, but some vehicles are easier then others.
@@wilsworkshop copy that ill check out some of your other content. Thanks!