Crazy EASY FIX for poorly performing SWISS MOVEMENTS
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
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I have regulated like this for years and after regulation, I wore the watches for 1 week and compared it to the atomic clock, checked daily and noted the variation. Because of this experience, I am confident this system works.
All you need is to get a broken in movement first. (Ideally 1 month of usage at least)
Then do 20min tests in the positions you want to regulate against.
Calculate the math for the variation of your specific movement.
Adjust accordingly and you are complete.
It typically is a quick 1 human hair turn in most cases to get COSC levels of accuracy! It really is so simple!
Disclaimer: I am not a watchmaker, I just play one on TV and do this at your OWN RISK!!!!
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Check out how to regulate beat ERROR HERE: czcams.com/video/VPeKFk1axbA/video.html *I wore the watch for 4 DAYS STRAIGHT after filming. With my atomic clock timegrapher app my on the wrist performance average is +2.5s a day! Not bad and you can see the day I was very active it was close to zero like I predicted and less active closer to +5s. (I will upload pic on insta stories)*
If you want to regulate to 3 positions the 3rd one should be 3-DOWN or Crown Down and do the math between the 3 positions. Find the variance and lean towards your most active position for your daily routine the heaviest. -FALLING
Its also good practice to run the watch through a demagnetizer before adjusting the movement. I've gone through the motions of regulating a watch and then demagentizing it just to see the numbers go out again.
Good Share!
demag only when you need,,, otherwise you can create a problem this watcg has normal value dont needto invent...
This was exactly the video I needed. Thanks!
I’ve no use for a time grapher provided the error within the range of the eccentric screw. I prefer to regulate on the wrist. I received a new Alpina Startimer GMT with an SW200-1 derived movement for Christmas that was +17 seconds a day out of the box. The average consumer would have either lived with the watch or returned it. After a few days spent on “trial and error” regulation on the wrist; I now have a rock solid +1.176 seconds a day watch (observed daily over the course of 3 weeks) regulated to the real world environment in which I live. No machine can duplicate that, few COSC certified watches would do as well. A very easy DIY, provided the movement is precise.
Actually I've found the 2 positions I test to are exactly the average of my daily life on wrist performance. The 2 main positions. I always used to use the on wrist regulation method as well. Then found out after years and years of testing it is pretty much the exact same as the 2 positions averaged out. So if its 0 and 5 its 2.5s on the wrist. And that's what this one ended up doing. But I find this way much quicker with the same results.
Thank you for that! Very useful video!!! Didn‘t expect it to be that easy…
You're welcome!
Fantastic video! I always wanted to know how you did it, can't wait to start tinkering myself!
You can do it! Just don't slip and hit the balance spring or your movement is toast!
Ive never opened a watch before.
Ive got a crappy pagani design im ready to "trash" through experimentation lol.
Thanks for the tips and advice!
Go for it!
great vid ,very informative .I have a 2824 in my Tudor pelagos i might see if i can improve it as it slightly slower and could be improved perhaps
Just be careful dont slip and hit the balance take your time and use good tools the caseback tool I have came with a rolex/tudor caseback adaptor.
I've been looking for a video on regulating a Swiss movement for ages, so well done. I've noticed on my SW330-1 GMT that the + and - seem to be the other way around. For example the + is nearer the centre of the movement. So to speed up the time it should be rotated towards the negative not the positive? Your Soprod movement appears to be the other way around.
Glad it was helpful! Yes some manufactures may have the + and - on the opposite sides. Just turn towards the symbol you are trying to aim for.
Thank you for posting this useful video. I need your advice for my ETA 2824-2 When i adjust the regulating stud to get a good Beat Error of 0.2 the Rate goes up to about +100 when I adjust the Beat Rate to show 0.8 I can use the fine tune adjustment to reduce the Rate down to +10 at best. How can i get a good Beat Error and good Rate?
you have to remove the rotor then the automatic works and adjust the rate with the rate lever (hidden by the autoworks). This one does large adjustments. The screw is only for fine adjustments. So fix the beat rate then you can lower the +100 down to +20 or +10 then put it back together and use the fine screw like shown in video to dial it in to 0sec.
@@EscapementWatch Thank you very much for your fast reply. Much appreciated.
This is even better than the ST19 goose-neck/swan-neck :)
In this video I mention it can be done on chronometer grade Seikos but the screw should be smaller then the one used on this Soprod. Go with 0.8mm. Also, adjusting beat error on the high end Seiko's the lever is very stiff so take caution. Very dangerous if you slip and hit the balance!!! I just regulated my KSK king Seiko as it is now fully broken in and I wanted to reduce the beat error form 0.4ms to 0.0ms but I could only get it to 0.2ms dial up and 0.1ms 12 down. So not recommend to touch beat if your not very used to regulating.
Great video. Like your case removal tool. Need one of those for the really stubborn case backs. Looks much more secure and less prone to slipping and scratching the caseback.
I might add, from my own experience, what the timegrapher shows doesn't necessarily reflect what you will get. Did u say that and I missed it? Anyways, +0 s/d doesn't mean that you've nailed it and will get +0 s/d. And, sometimes -whatever s/d still gives me +gain when checking the accuracy with my apps.. and, a +whatever might still give you -loss.
Long way for me to say your watch's movement and your actual movement will vary in actual practice and usage. Keep recording and checking accuracy with an app. I usually use 2 apps just to get an average between the two because they don't all measure with same results. And, you may need to adjust regulation a couple more times to fine tune to as close to perfect as you want it.
Btw, once, I did slip and jabbed into the balance wheel .. or was it the spring? Idk? Doesn't matter, either way it was bad as the movement stopped immediately and would work after that. Luckily (If there's such a thing in this situation), it was just a Seiko 4R36 movement. I ended up quickly ordering an NH36 on ebay to replace it. Truly luckily, Seiko standard movements aren't expensive and easy to get.
Any tips on regulating an ETA 7001 manual wind movement? It unfortunately does not have the screw to adjust the regulator. It appears to just have the levers/arms much like how you might regulate a Seiko movement. I'm just trying to figure out which lever/arm is the correct one for the rate. Don't want to accidentally move the other one which is likely to effect the best error.
The arm that has the "C" shape with a tiny gap is the regulator one. The top lever. Yes sometimes you hit the balance and your sping is toast sometimes you can get lucky and its fine!
I worn this watch 4 days after this video was filmed. 2.5s a day. I posted the image to my insta stories. So it is exactly how I predicted 2-3s on the wrist!
Before and after,watch should be de magnetize,nice amplitude,adjust beat error,minus 5+10,good,very good overhaul
Great 👍 job on the video 👏 as always. Thanks 😊
You are welcome!
My swiss watch is too nic3 to open tbh lol im gonna leave the + 6 a day and just pop the crown out flr 6 seconds per day or whenever my ocd kicks in. I am a little annoyed that my seiko 4r36 runs more accurate than my swiss movement. But, oh well.
I tried that on my Pronto before 😊
Thanks alot, so half a notch means +-5sec ? :)
never seen a watch with this screwm and i have thousabds og swissm maybe i could adapt something like that helps on precision
I have a Seiko5 7s26c. I managed to get it 2s fast pr day using a phone app. It's my first watch, and only had it for a week, so I'm not experienced at all. My question is, can I expect to get it better, or will I probably make it worse if I try to get it 0-0,25 s pr day? Is 2s beginners luck, or easy to replicate?
Almost magical winding and running problems with the SW200-1 and i thought they had fixed it !! The "-1" stands for the fix they supposedly had applied, now customers are still having issues and they're swiss made beauties
Yes the fix isn't really a fix. Kinda made it worse. The ETA 2824 I hardly see it.
@@EscapementWatch This is exactly what i told myself lol
A top video FT. Very well done! This is all very good information for regulating the Swiss movements you mention. Just a thought though it might be worth making sure that the screwdriver is not magnetic as I guess this may introduce another variable. Not all precision screwdrivers are the same. I would guess using spending the money on the Bergeon could be money very well spent.
Good point!
When you look at your phone it’s dial down. You regulate in all positions not just two. Dial up,Dial down,crown-up,crown-down. Back in the day mechanical watches were positioned in six positions for regulation.
How about seiko japan movement bro?any sugges how to regulate?
check out my old video in the pinned comment
I do always first regulate beat error before I mess with watch speed. Correct me if I'm wrong. But sometimes when I correct the beat error I automatically get the wanted pace from my time peace. Such a joy to play with swiss escapement instead of japanese studs which are sometimes stiff. The Orient I have is such one.
Yes I show beat error regulation in the pinned comment video. This is more for people who buy a new swiss chronometer grade movement and the beat error is already in spec 0.1-0.3ms and just want to fix the rate
You afre lucky. My eta 2824-2 is -25s slow. The micro adjust all the way to the right chnaged it by a few secods down to -20s nothing what your watch showed. Iwish you showed how to adjust the pin and the stud.
You should be able to find videos on the 2824-2. It's a very common movement. You are correct. If your micro adjust does not work, you have to center the micro adjust screw and then move the regulator pin manually to either shorten or lengthen the hairspring. In your case you need to shorten the hairspring (moving the regulating pin away from the stud). It might be blocked by the automatic rotor assembly which can easily be removed to access the pin.
Is the screw tight? Or is it easy to turn with slight pressure?
I wonder how can you regulate the new Hamilton 80h power reserve movements??? It's a free sprung balance...
You have to move the weights on the balance. Towards the center should speed it up and towards the outer edge of the balance to slow it down.
My watch is not responding to +- regulation. Only beat error xan be fixed. It is - 30-20 when fully wind for
Can it be fixed?
sounds like you need to do a full service with a watchmaker in your case.
@@EscapementWatch I did. I guess it happend after demagnitization.
1. I was trying to fix it bymyself adjusting to minus. it worked, but at some point it started to run extremely fast (as a leart later due to huge beat error, I was not adjusting beat erroe).
2. I suspected magnetization, nad my phone shown up to 700 unitis, comparing to 30-50 normal.
3. after demagnatization it stoped reacting to +- at all.
4. after service done same thing, when fully winded, it runs +- even if worn. when stored it accelerates to +35-40s per day. (10 minutes after being fully wind)
any ideas about demagnetization?
phone's compas reactes to watch, but measurment is not great. usually 0-70.
at some place it tops to 110 at dial side.
maybe I shall buy demagnetizer and try to diy demag??
@@EscapementWatch hi! looks like I ve solved the problem. smth with magnetism. I used my laptop (maybe cpu) or (smth with over 5000 units) to demagnetize it partially. then regulated a little bit with plastic diy tool, so that metal tool will not magnetizee it agian (however it was not seemingly magnetized according to my phone sensor reading) not I ve set on +-1 dial up. Happy)))
Guts!
Sir, the screw on the balance bridge is in no way connected to the regulator pin or hairspring. Then how does it affect the timing if moved left or right? Is there some connection inside of the balance bridge. Kindly explain.
screw puts pressure on a lever that hugs the screw. As you turn the screw the lever gives fine micro adjustments to the hairspring
Your explanation is very clear. This has bugged me for years. Now that you have clarified, I am able to understand it better. Thank you so much.
Interesting. How would you regulate a watch without an adjustment screw or lever like the Hamiltons with an H40 movement?
I believe the H40 has to be regulated with its free sprung balance, so there are 2 weights on the balance moving it towards (Decreases speed) the center or away (Increase speed). I have never tried it before
@@EscapementWatch That sounds complicated. Perhaps you could make a video on it!
In the future I'll try maybe with a better zoom lens so I can keep it out of my way.
My watch keeps getting magnatised after been demagnatised . Do i chage hair spring ...thanks
How do you know it’s magnetism and not dirt?
Was that a cosmic gate clip at the beginning?
Gate clip? Just an intro from past videos
Great 📹 🎥
Thanks ✌
Why on earth regulating levers stopped being placed on the balance cock and were shifted to right over the balance wheel is beyond me
The screw is only for fine adjustment, right? My watch is off by quite a bit, so turning the screw doesn't correct enough. How do you do a larger adjustment? Would I simply just keep turning the screw?
No you will break it if you keep turning the screw. Sounds like you need a service of the movement or your beat error is off causing a larger deviation.
@@EscapementWatch So glad I asked. With the screw centered I have -98, amp 130, and beat error 0.1. Is it the upper stud that I move for a large adjustment? If so I have to remove the automatic mechanism to access that. Would it be a clockwise push of that stud?
130 amplitude is extremely low! Wind up your watch at least 20 turns and see if that helps. Anything below 200 you require a service in most cases.
@@EscapementWatch Yes, well I bought this new about 15 years ago and wore it about 5 times, but it has never been serviced. The oils have surely dried up.
@@EscapementWatch This is the amplitude after 60 winds. Using the rate stud and micro adjusting screw I was able to adjust it to -1 sec pretty consistently, with an amplitude of 165, and 0.2ms beat error. The graph dots formed 2 tight lines with no errant dots. After an hour or so the time continued to get slower and the amplitude went down, so surely it needs fresh lubrication.
What to do if the micro screw is no longer sufficient for adjustment 2824-2
Then you probably need a full service
@@EscapementWatch I don't think she fell off the table
You have to remove the automatic works and adjust the stud coarsely by moving it more and then fine tune via the screw so its steps are enough for the plus or minus adjustments.
P024, just like the ETA 2824 and its other clones (SW200, PT5000, etc) has a 50° lift angle... not 51° .. :P
So much easier than seiko style with that screw.
This works on chronometer grade Seiko movements 6L and 8L. They have the screw but are only on high end seikos.
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
That beat error though..... :(
I regulate my Japanese watches the same way
Thanks for sharing!
Ma... ci sono anche altre regolazioni... questa la sanno un pó tutti...