Watch This Video Before Buying A ETA 2824 or Sellita sw200 Watch ( Winding Issue and fix 2021 !)
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- čas přidán 10. 05. 2021
- Yes it seems that ETA 2824/Sellita sw200 and some other 2824 copies. Basically a gear within the movement (Ratchet wheel) seems to, over time, get teeth damage due to hand winding the movement. This can end up very bad if not sorted out. In this video i show the issue and how to fix it. Sit back and have a watch :)
PS I know it's Glycine not Glycerine. Get a word stuck in my head and don't rearlise what i'm saying until it's done ;)
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![[EN] ETA or Sellita movements? Do you know what are they and what are the differences?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P6IauhuBhvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[EN] ETA or Sellita movements? Do you know what are they and what are the differences?](/img/tr.png)
I want to take a minute to thank you for this video. It allowed me to fix my Sellita movement on one of my favorite watches and now I have it running again. Many many thanks to you!
Just got into watch service and your instructions helped me confirm this issue in my Glycine. I was winding My glycines every day but now I know better. Thank you.
That is insane discovery. I looked at my hamilton khaki field and indeed the ratchet wheel is missing a couple of teeth!! Thanks for the video, good job brother.
Maybe I’m confused but, by only finding one little piece of the broken teeth and being satisfied doesn’t seem logical. The other pieces shouldn’t have annihilated themselves. They are in there somewhere right ?
I too have some concerns in regards to where the broken teeth are inside the watch. I personally would do a service on the whole watch out of fear that the broken teeth could cause more damage in the long run floating around somewhere in the watch.
Exactly, I won't be purchasing.
I agree with you. The whole movement needs to be serviced by stripping and rebuilding it. This solves nothing and leaves the bits to foul. Lucky customers... 😮
@@MrPINKFL0YD
And here we come across something unsurpassable: the price of the service at a watchmaker is greater than or equal to the price of the watch. Rationally, mechanical watches are an aberration.
Unless you are a watchmaker yourself...
Thanks. This is pretty helpful. My first Swiss Automatic watch was an Invicta that I still have and a bunch of the winding wheel's teeth broke off and got scattered around the movement so I sent it back to Invicta and they took my Automatic watch and locked the rotor in place and just fixed the winding and sent it back to me. So I told them that this is unacceptable and I am not supposed to have an automatic watch work like a wind-up mechanical watch. So I returned it again and they fixed the rotor too. I am gonna go easy on the winding when I pop this on from now on.
Awesome just bought a Alpina with the SW200 movement. Good to know the proper way of operation to hopefully keep the gear from failing. Thank you cheers🍻
Glad I came across this video..have this exact issue in my Glycine and like you said, was quoted $250.. I was going to throw the watch away or sell for parts as it wasn't worth the effort but I found the part for $10 and will fix myself and get experience working on movements.
Smh at the $250 quote for a 5 minute fix since I can get an overhaul for same amount from same watch guy.
Great! Very good and informative. I have this exact problem on my Invicta 9937, and now I know what to do. Thank you very much!
Thank you so much for creating this video. After watching it, I felt comfortable enough to replace the ratchet wheel on my Glycine Combat sub. The part cost $10 on ebay. I was hand-winding the watch everyday until the teeth on the ratchet wheel eventually shear off. Learn my lesson. BTW, love the way you Brits pronounce the word Glycine and Aluminum with an extra syllable. Tomato, Tomato. Potate Potatoe and then there is Glycine.
He was pronouncing Glycine wrongly which is not a British thing, that's his own problem.
lol.. nope.. just him pronouncing Glycine wrong lol..
either way.. IT'S NOT US SAYING IT WRONG.. WE INVENTED THE LANGUAGE!.. YOU YANKS BUTCHERED OUR PRECIOUS LANGUAGE!! lol..
I’ve heard Glycine pronounced: glisten. Which one is correct: glisten or glyceen? 🤷♂️
Thanks for the advice and video!
Before replacing the ratchet wheel, it is not recommended a service for cleaning all the metal residues left by the damaged parts?
It is not a hazard to let the small metal fragments to float all over inside the watch?
I like your style and what are trying to do. Real cool channel and content. Keep nice and humble - thumbs up!!
I think you didnt solve the issue at all - you just solve the consequence of the real issue.
The real problem is at the reverser wheels not at the ratchet wheel that you replaced. This is a very well known issue. The lubrication of the reverser wheels age and they end up not disengagaging the counterweight when you wind by the crown, the ratchet wheel cannot sustain that effort and you damage its teeth as a weak link - The way I see it, the design of the movement has an in-built fuse to prevent greater damages :).
Do you want to solve the cause of the issue? just replace the 2-off reverser wheels Or alternatively, clean the old ones thoroughly and regrease them with Lubeta fluid.
Hope this is of help.
To finalize... how to clean and grease the reverser wheels?
This is the way I do it:
- Remove them from the automatic work
- Soak them in light fluid, solvent for a couple of hours.
- clean them two passes on the ultrasonic bath, use very diluted ammonia fluid (or non-ammoniated - the ammonia corredes copper quick).
- Rinse and dry with hot air.
To lubricate:
- Standard: Soak them in lubeta fluid and blow excess. Allow to evaporate the rest. They are ready.
- Alternative: (Mix parts per volume) dilute 1/4 medium density watch oil into 3/4 of lighter fluid/solvent. Use it as if it were lubeta.
How to test after reassembly:
Once all the auto works is in place, including the counterweight... wind by the crown and observe the reverser wheels as you do it and change the angle of the watch.
If the reverser wheels dont disengage the counterweight when laying flat this is normal and acceptable to some extent. As soon as you change slightly the angle of the watch - The reverser wheels should disengage the counterweight and releive the stress on the mechanism when winding by the crown.
I have a Croton with the ETA 2834-2 movement that’s in for regular service, but I will definitely take good care of hand winding it as little as possible. I will probably keep it on a watch winder instead. I’m also picking up a used Croton with the ETA 2836-2 movement and I will be checking out if it has the broken gear problem. If not I’ll make sure it doesn’t happen.
There are at least three teeth broken off, plus a few maimed ones. IMO this should be a full service if you only find one tooth, the others may have slipped around to the date wheel size or ready to jam the automatic works or cause other problems- like a timing issue. I can't think of a relaible way to ensure the others are not stuck in there without a disassembly and run through a watch cleaner or ultrasonic.
Also, an improperly lubricated automatic works can do this- if the rotor is trying to spin when you hand wind the watch that's a clue.
I've serviced my own 2824 and 2836 watches (some of which I have used regularly for 20+ years) and have never seen this issue, but will watch out for signs of it in future just in case.
(I was also going to make the Glycerine comment, but you addressed it below :).
Nice to hear another Geordie voice talking about watches though, at least I'm not the only one messing about up here! :0)
This happens when people mindlessly wind and wind and wind the watch with no concern when the main spring is starting to slip inside it's barrel and starts giving higher resistance than during regular operation.
I wondered why I haven't heard of this before because the 2824 has been around for decades.@@rosomak8244
Good video, great commentary, but Max Bygrave said "you need hands" lol. And because of thatI as a base amateur I had no idea where you got the screws off the auto winder from. That aside enjoyable.
Very interesting I got a steinhart OMV from a far east dealer no problem with his input, I wasn’t wearing the watch much but when I started to wind it it felt really horrible and noisy grating sound though it worked fine time keeping was good I did send it back to steinhart in Germany they said there service watch expert said it was all ok, it’s my belief they did nothing the after sales and customer service is not good. It’s a shame as I was keen on buying more from that brand but have decided I’ll spend my money somewhere else
Thanks for this. I built a watch with a seagull ST2130 which is yet another clone of the venerable 2824. Hopefully the replacement ETA gear is compatible. Which screwdrivers do you use by the way? I need to upgrade mine and trying to find options other than Bergeon.
Even the cheapest will do. Just give them a good sharpening and polish yourself.
I had no idea what a great update! Thanks
Excellent video, having this issue with my Steinhart too.
My Steinhart Adventure 39 has this problem. It winds from a dead stop, but you cannot wind it once it is up and running. I sent it back to Steinhart under warranty, and they said it was working perfectly and did not do anything to fix the problem. I then took it to a local watch shop and they too said they couldn't find a problem. Strange that when I try to wind it that it feels stuck! The watch runs great (-2s/d), but I have an uneasy feeling that one of those ratchet wheel teeth is going to wreck the whole movement. Maybe I'll just try to fix it myself. Thanks for the video.
Great video chap and thanks for the info
I had a recent Zelos with the sw200 hand wind lose the ability to change time. At first the winding process felt a little stiff. I wonder if I broke a tooth which jammed something else. I must say Zelos took care of it immediately
Thank you for the advice and the how to 😊👍
Thank you for this demo. I have a few Sellita SW200 timepieces some work very well and some have manifested a few issues like this one. I'm just wondering why Sellita SA did not use a better more durable metal for that gear since it takes a lot of stress. Cost issue maybe. Either way Sellita used to contract with ETA finishing movements and skeletonization from what I understand. Does this occur with 2824 mods as well but not as frequent.
Either way great watching a master at work here.
Thanks mate.
Nice - Just in case any loose teeth move about so eventually cause wider damage, and rather than stripping down and cleaning everything, would holding the open-back watch upside down and shaking it for a bit, help any loose teeth drop out ?
Albeit by doing so, there is a risk that loose teeth could be deposited elsewhere sooner.
Wow. Great video and explanation. Thank you
Did a (different, needed investigation) repair for a friend’s Oris, with SW200 onboard. He’d been to a couple of other places and £250 was the going rate.
We had a long chat about this, and while I did his repair free, as a business I would have charged what would be a sustainable rate for the business.
Think about the time, equipment, fluids/oils, operational costs and then factor in the experience, troubleshooting skills & professionalism you’d like taking care of your watch and the need for all this to be done at a sustainable price in the UK. Quite quickly the repair price can be a significant portion of the value of the watch - understandably a turn-off.
I also told him the cost of a full movement replacement for a 200-1; £135 (no-date) £150 (date) ex VAT.
A dial & rotor transplant onto a new movement can see the watch ‘repaired’ in just a few minutes, regardless of carnage. Not saying that’s what they’d have done, just putting it out there.
(Would they also keep the original movement for parts?)
I've no problem paying a decent fee for honest, professional work. However: I recently had my father's automatic dress watch completely serviced at my local watch-maker (watch had stopped working due to lack of service) and paid just under 300 Euro for everything. Which is very close to 250 GBP.
The only reason why swapping out a ratchet wheel would cost (near) as much as a full service would be, IMO, if the watch-maker gave the movement a full clean/service on top of that, just to make sure that no broken teeth or other debris remained within the movement. Taking off the automatic works and then swapping out that one wheel is hardly a time-consuming or challenging task for a pro.
This problem is probably one of the few that can easily be diagnosed without even opening the watch. In that case, a good watchmaker should be able to fix this in 15-20 mins, however, not sure they can give a repair guarantee since pieces of teeth could be trapped inside the watch. Perhaps the guarantee could be a discount on a full service or new movement if the problem reoccurs. Anyway, to charge 240 pounds for 15-20 mins of work is clearly highway robbery, poor business management, or both ....
A very good and informative video. And I am not a professional watch repair person by any stretch of the imagination. But as a precautionary, wouldn't it be a good recommendation, to the customer. To have the have the timepiece cleaned as well, as to remove the shard pieces of the damaged gear? To ensure that no further damage will occur to the movement in the future.
It was stated in the video that they looked inside the watch movement for any fragments of that winding wheel, and they did find one fragment. However as a watchmaker, I would certainly completely disassemble and clean the movement since the metal from those missing teeth must be somewhere in the watch, it cannot simply disappear. Even if ground to a powder, it could cause problems in the future.
Another reason to go deeper into the movement is to clean and lube the reversing wheels that likely contributed to this failure.
All of that being said, the work that the customer is willing to pay for is sometimes a limiting factor, if they won’t pay for a full tear down and clean I would refuse the job or limit my service warranty to exclude any future failures caused by loose metal remaining in the movement.
@@mercuriall2810 Those movements are not economical to do a full service on them.
@@rosomak8244You will find elabore, too and chronometer grade ETA 2824-2 in watches that cost several thousand dollars and they are certainly made with serviceability in mind and are regularly cleaned, oiled and adjusted by watchmakers worldwide.
Very helpful video! I own a couple of Glycine Combat Sub (not Glycerine, that's what my girlfriend uses for her hands lol) with SW200-1, I hardly ever handwind them, only real gently, 3 times max. to get them going after a couple of shakes.
I have 2 questions: one of them has this thing when I screw the crown back in, it engages the autowinding rotor. I can feel the resistance and also feel and almost hear the rotor spinning. So I never handwind it and only screw the crown back on real sloooow. Is this normal or is it a flaw in that particular movement?
Also: I plan on buying a handful of ratchet wheels, you never know, they're dirt cheap right now, but I was wondering if it would make a difference what material they are made of. I found some online that are supposedly made of steel. I'm thinking, if the other (handwinding) wheel can handle that, would it be better to have a steel ratchet wheel fitted or would it wreck the wheels that are used for auto winding??
Not sure if these are the correct terms, I'm not a watchmaker but a musician, but I do have *some* experience in fixing watches, swapping movements and easy part replacement.
Ta in advance!
Update: the engaging of the rotor when screwing the crown back on was caused by the reverse wheels. I managed to have the reverse wheels of that one watch replaced under warranty, they were very helpful at the AD and sent it in to Glycine Switzerland as a warranty case (warranty was 2 years, the watch was out of warranty for just 2 months but I had noticed the issue already a year earlier). I'll just keep wearing my other watches with SW-200-1 until they either fall apart or until I can afford sending them in and pay for a service. Most of these watches have doubled in price since I bought them so it might be worth it.
If some theets are broken, the boken parts are somwhere inside... at this moment your lucky, its working..and a small shock wil let the boken part travelling, ( lucky if there is no additional dammage) and you can do the whole job again...
It is an oil viscosity issue. You can change the faulty cheese wheel, if you reuse any other oil than the moebius and if you don't pre-clean the relating gears beforehand, the issue will reappear.
Super helpful - many thanks!
aaahhhh.. My SW200-1 has just started getting this issue, overwinding I'm sure, I got given advice which seems to be wrong lol
what would you reccomend with winding these movements?
I had to send in a Christopher Ward with this exact problem, & it happened within 2-weeks of owning the watch. I'm not watch expert (yes I am), but I've owned quite a few, & I've cemented one opinion in particular; I prefer the Miyota 9015 (their high beat variants at large) to the ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200. I consistently have better experiences, in every way...I'm not talking only about accuracy here, with the Miyota high beat movements, & they're much less expensive as well. It's eye rolling time when I see a watch that is vastly over priced, & they happen to have an ETA or even Sellita...I get why the watch companies do it, I just get why it works on us customers.
I’ve never had a single issue with Sellita or ETA movements, and I own quite a lot. Cheap japanese movements, like Miyota and Seiko, may be more robust, but I personally find annoying and embarrassing having to look at what seems to be a broken or misaligned date wheel every evening.
@@giusepperocchi2979 I hear you, & each of our experiences are anecdotal in nature, so I'm not sure what value is here for anyone outside of you & I. I also hear you on misaligned dates, but I've never had that issue, with any movement/watch I've ever experienced, but that simply means I'm lucky...if you even semi-consistently see that issue with Miyota movements, well, that's plenty reason right there to steer clear & stick to ETAs. I will say, I'd love to see movement regulation become as standard as sapphire crystals...the two most accurate watches I've currently got are my least expensive, RZE's, with Seiko low-beat movements that were regulated before being shipped. Anyhow, enjoy your evening!
@@scottsherman5262
The date problem is inherent in every Miyota and Seiko 4R or 6R. They begin changing date before 11 pm, and take an age to finish.
Okay, you made a great video. Subscribed ! But now I am sad that that Sinn U1 uses SW200, was almost going to get my grail, and now with this information, my grail just died. :(
Great vid! I just subbed from Texas! Are you aware of any problems like this in the ETA 90 series (or the Sellita 300 series for that matter)? I have a STEINHART GMT with the ETA 2893-2. I will say, it wound like butter when I got it in late December 2020 but now, late August 2021 it is still very smoothly wound but maybe not quite as smooth….?….Thanks. Understand if you can’t get back but maybe one of your other subs or just someone in the community can chime in. 👍☝🏻👍
don't worry, the 2892A2 or 289x-x manual & automatic winding construction is superior to the 2824 :) and it's buttery smooth, the rachet wheel broken teeth problem can only be found in a 2824 / sellita sw200,
CMIIW
That Sellita is the same movement my Sinn 556 has. By far the most expensive watch I own. It annoys me a bit that my $1,300 Sinn has a vulnerability that my $200 Seiko 5 doesn't have.
Great video. Not a DIY thing for me of course. But I can share the video with a watchmaker if they need it.
Thanks :) just wanted to spread the word incase others were seeing this issue and a fix (DIY or to pass on for some else ;) haha )
Great video. You make that look easy though.
Excellent / just fixed my!!! Debaufre diver!!!
If I just got a 2824 based watch, would adding a tiny amount of extra lube on the ratchet wheel help prevent this? (While also avoiding hand winding)
Terrific presentation! Thank you. T)
Sorry but glycerine 😂😂😂 it's a good song. Glycine is the watch brand
Haha I know, issue with my head is I start saying it and don't rearlise I have until I watch back. By that point I normally don't have the watch no more to redo :P Glycerine is a great song though will back you up there ;)
😅😂🤣
@@GrimwoodWatchModding😂
Thank you for posting this, I have the same issue with a Steinhart Ocean One.
Is it possible to do a movement swap for Tissot PRX 35mm from the Powermatic to these movements?
I am worried about the anti-servicing characteristics of the Powermatic.
So instead I plan that when it comes the time for me to service the watch, I'd just swap the movoment with either 2824 or ws200.
But again, the problem is "will it fit?".
This is a very common issue, and I have seen it several times. Is there a reason that the brass ratchet wheel isn't made of a stronger material?
Is the automatic Framework device both of them are the same and can replace each other?
Great vid. Tough crowd.
I usually toss my watch in my pocket as I'm getting ready to go. Shave, brush my teeth, etc and usually it's running great by the time I'm almost ready to go. Probably too worried about my 2824's but I'm picky about my things I guess.
The teeth out of the ratchet wheel and clicking is a symptom of the fault. The cause is usually incorrect or thickening of lubrication of the reverser wheels. When manually winding the watch this can take up to 3x the effort to wind. The ratchet wheel was never designed to take this much torque so the teeth snap off, and sometimes windmilling can occur.
The £250 rip off is very likely to include servicing to ensure the teeth don’t get wedged under the barrel and scratch up the barrel, bridge or main plate. Also, cleaning and replacing the reverser lubricants will help prevent it happening again.
ETA 2824-2 Found a chunk of dust on my second hand :( Could you demonstrate how to remove movement from case so I can clean it off...please. Thanks
My sinn 104 has the sellita - 1 with the updated teeth. Good to know I shouldn't over wind it.
Thank you for the trick !
Very interesting video! Thank you!
Is it the same issue with the PT5000? It’s a clone of the ETA aswell. Thought you might have some insight on that…
i just got a pagani air king clone pt 5000 and it has a winding issue like this. it runs with auto winding but if you pull out the crown for any reason it tries to wind even if you are just trying to secure the screw down feature. i suppose it's headed for the bin and what a shame since it's a favorite.
@@gregorywalker4997 that sounds to me more like like incorrect stem trim-off length.
The only issue I have had so far is trouble sticking the stem back in… while assembling the watch the first time is always fine, but when the movement is assembled any following attempts to take out the stem will result in it not clicking back in..
Pull the stem out toi the time setting position before trying to remove it so the winding and sliding pinions are indexed to each other and held in place by the setting lever. Wiggle the crown slightly clockwise and anticlockwise so the square part of the stem engages before trying to push it home. Then click it just to the time setting position- it will take a bit more force than removal, you can press exasctly as you did to remove the stem to help the stem slide back in. then rotate slightly and check alignmnet before pushing through date setting position to winding position. Hope this helps.
That was brilliant. I have a pt5000 where the rotor windmills when i wind it. Is it the same issue do you think?
it is the same mecanism
What is the part number for the ETA movement?
Thank you for the very informative video 👍
Glad it was helpful!
@@GrimwoodWatchModding hi,
Do you do all watch repairs ?, lucky no problems at the moment but will sure bare you in mind if needed, thanks in advance.the 👍
@@darrenlathrope2282 Yes i do :). If you need out just drop me a message.
@@GrimwoodWatchModding cheers buddy 👍
Is the Winding Issue also present in the sellita Sw330?
So where did the broken off teeth go?
Great video, can you explain the other problem this movement has where the rotor spins when you try to wind it please? My wife's Oris had this issue recently, and I have an Aquaracer with this movement which had a very vague crown position and a similar feeling like it was starting to push against the rotor when winding. Thanks Rob
Ratchet wheels are clogged up. Bad oiling or some material ingress. Maybe some broken off teeth from a winding wheel... The fix would be to replace the ratchet wheels.
Okay, insane idea. I just saw that the eta 2801/sw210 are basically hand winding non-automatic versions of the eta 2824/sw200. If you look at the ratchet wheel (part no. 415) it's way more robust looking and has teeth that actually mesh with the crown wheel. I was wondering if taking a ratchet wheel from there and putting it in a 2824/sw200 would work. I'm a noob and I'm very new to this so I don't know what preventing this idea from working.
Short answer: Not without sacrificing the automatic works
Long answer:
The main reason the ratchet wheel looks so out of place on the automatic ETA 28XX movements is due to it having to mesh with the automatic works as well as the manual winding. The automatic works uses a rather small gear as the interface between itself and the ratchet wheel, as a result the pitch is quite fine.
So supposing that you could use the ratchet wheel off the 2801, the movement would not longer be compatible with the automatic works.
Additionally the barrel and train wheel bridges are different...
Due to the mismatched (but "compatible") pitches, the crown wheel on the 28xx automatics does not have a fixed pivot rather it has the ability to slide in order to play nice with the ratchet wheel. Whereas the 2801 has a fixed crown wheel pivot because both it and the ratchet wheel are actually compatible (from an engineering point of view). Also worth noting the crown wheels are different, 26 teeth with counterbore for automatics and 27 teeth for manual wind.
Due to the delicate ratchet wheel on the automatics, the click is actually located by the crown wheel (which also serves the purpose of maintaining mesh by virtue of its spring tension) while the 2801 has its click on the ratchet wheel. The above pertains to the barrel bridge. However, the barrel bridge and train wheel bridge are "nested" and must be used as complete sets. Going that route removes all mounting features and interfaces for the automatic works.
Since my watch has a screw down crown I try to avoid doing anything with the crown to avoid wear.
I only use it to set the time and just give the watch a few shakes to start it up. Never had any problems.
Yeah, luckily it's a really easy fix, but I don't hand wind my sw200s if I can help it ever since hearing about this issue.
Great video
Thats great information
Hello, Where do you suggest to but the part? The proper technical name for the gear? My Glycine watch has winding issue too. Thanks
It's a rachet wheel.
Amazing the movement has been around for many decades and the issue is still not fixed.
I have a SW 220-1 in an Oris big crown propilot gmt. The date just snaps to the next date in one second when changing. It does not drag for an hour like your standard automatic date change. Is this something Sellita does? Thanks
Yes, the SW200-1 also snaps over as well
I know it's a drag, but if there are bits of teeth missing they must be in there somewhere. Surely a strip down and clean is gold standard here.
How do you pressure test them?
Why can't Sellita SA make a winding gear wheel that is not susceptible to breakage. Do they think this is good for their reputation. Makes me wonder if the cost to fix it with most watchmakers is more costly for the consumer than buying another movement altogether.
Consumers should not have to baby their movements when winding them so as not to break them. What kind of metal alloy is utilized for this gear in the SW200s. Just venting mate no worries great video just subbed thanx mate.
That gear acts as a fuse, so it was designed to break when the movement has other issues. When the movement is serviced, it can easily and cheaply be replaced. If it was made out of harder materials, the movement would destroy itself and it would cost a lot more to fix it.
This is interesting but unfortunate....isnt there steel ratchet wheel available for 2824 anywhere...? I have 2824 incoming.. ps. Other watch is Glycine, Glycerine is either alcohol or moisturizer
That is kind of a flaw, espeacially if you want or have to handwind oftentimes and consider a greater chunk of money for a watch with one of the shown movements instead of one with a NH35 inside.
I've had an ETA 2836 with the same issue.
Thanks for that video! Now I’m kind of afraid to buy a watch I really liked with this movement in it. Does somebody know if Sellita fixed this issue? Or are the more expensive watches equipped with a “better” sw200-1 than the more affordable ones?
In all honesty i wouldn't let you put you off. I have plenty of these movements in one form or another in watches. All I say is give them enough winds to get them going and then let your wrist do the rest. :)
@@GrimwoodWatchModding how about the sellita hand winding movements only? can i wind it until it stops?
how to determine that you have that broken wheel inside your watch?
Interesting... so, apparently, the changes Sellita did to their SW200 to address this (change in the ratchet wheel's teeth profile AFAIK) haven't really worked. Speaking of which: Is that a pre- or post-fix SW200? Meaning is it an SW 200 or an SW 200-1?
In any case: I really should stop using the hand-winding function. I rarely do it and when I do, I usually only hand-wind five or ten turns to wake up a watch that's completely out of power - then I shake the watch and start wearing it to put some more power into the mainspring. Guess I probably shouldn't be doing even that... :)
Hilariously I have a JeanRichard Chronoscope with a SW200. It hand-winds perfectly but the automatic winding does nothing. Not quite a workhorse movement.
The PT5000 has the same problem?
You actually don’t check for teeth knocking about the movement?
This is a bit worrying, being that I was looking at both these movements for my watches!
Has this flaw been fixed?
Or can this part be swapped out for a better quality part?
It's not a flaw of the engineering of the movement, it's a flaw in a very low number of movements that sell in the millions. Don't worry about a few complaints, enjoy your watch.
With a fault like that you must service the Watch, tiny metalic particles will be hanging around the movement and will eventually cause problems.
Thank you!
I don't understand what they were thinking with this. "It's not supposed to be hand-wound that much" is a terrible, terrible excuse. Imagine someone built a hybrid car but if you actually use the combustion engine the whole thing is expected to break down after two years.
The difference is the gear material, right? I think the Seiko 4r/NH, Miyota 4000 and Tongji all use steel gears while the 2824 and clones use brass?
It is silly, the pitch of the teeth and the different metals between the winding gear and the racthet gear is also a factor in my mind.
I want to clear your frustation away by explaining a bit.
I have made another comment here to explain it but in essence: the brass ratchet gear functions like a fuse, easy to replace and very cheap to produce, it breaks when the reverser wheels are not healthy and need maintenance.
You have to understand that the system with reverser wheels is very effective - but it is an early auto design... and needs maintenance more often.
I do also prefer Seiko's magic Lever system than the reverser wheels - much more simple and robust. Magic Lever is awesome and outstandingly smart. (JLC & Nomos rocker wheels are also better than the reverser wheels systems).
I'll take a Miyota 9015 over those 2 movements any day! I've never had a 9015 issue. Multiple SW200 issues, to the point, I stay away from that movement. Junk IMHO.
great video buddy, yeah it was a common issue with the SW200 but they fixed and solved the problem on the SW200-1 movement
They didnt
@@imeltsnowflakes818 Yeah it turns out they still didn't in fact
I got a Breitling Hercules and I stopped wearing it years ago because it started running 15 minutes per hour fast - not per day but per hour. What do you reckon is wrong with it? I was thinking of having a go at fixing it since the lowest quote was about $900.
I'm not paying $900 - it can just keep sitting in the damn drawer for that.
It self rectified for a month once and maintained perfect time then it reverted back to +15mins per hour.
I told some some guy that does watch repairs on a street corner about the reverting back to normal then back to +15mins and said he could fix it for $50. He said it was a very simple problem to fix but all the big watch places gave me these ridiculous quotes. I don't necessarily trust any of them but that said the street corner guy is on the coal face so to speak and might actually now what he's talking about. Maybe he doesn't and I have to send it off. I haven't worn that watch for 8 years. It's a shame it sits in the drawer like that. Oh well.
If you gonna sell it in the near future let me know please. I hope it start working again..
Maybe it is magnetised,place a compass near it,if the needle moves towards the watch get it degaussed.Degaussing is just removing the magnetic effect the watch has suffered.Test it yourself if you have a compass and if it has suffered magnetism a watch maker can easily demagnetise it.
I thought that these type of watches could not be overwound?
Hey, thanks for the informatve video. Knowing the issue about the ratchet wheel, maybe we should all consider using the Miyota 9xxx series more often OR have someone make sturdier wheels.
Also you might want to call the GLYCINE it's correct name, not glycerine. 😉
Is the eta 2892(and family) as ticklish?
Not in my experience. Those are GREAT movements. I would run from an ETA 2824. The new 80 hour ones by Swatch are much better and pretty sure don't have these problems.
2824 has never suffered with this issue. Selita used inferior materials for their ratchet wheel reduction and drive wheels that’s why they break. The only time you’ll have an issue with eta 2824 winding is when the reversers are worn and they start to grab whilst winding resulting in broken winding and sliding pinion. The ratchet wheels on 2824 occasionally end up with missing teeth from people that don’t understand the parts from selita are not interchangeable and also when a main spring snaps under fully wound state.
Best advert for only owning one watch and wearing it every day so there is no need to wind.
I have a Tag Heur Calibre 5 that’s 3 years old. The watch works on the shake, but now when I went the crown it makes the clicking noise even when watch is drained
I have the same calibre 5, got it second hand, and its the sellita version with 2010 batch, runs flawless but i do hear the rotor clicking when rotate
@@Izou96 that’s interesting. This only began a couple of weeks ago. I’ve been told the gear attached to crown is broken as in missing teeth.
I am sure the rest of the debris from the missing teth are in that case somewhere....Why wouldn't you tear it down to check?
The sinn 104 uses a sellita 220 1 ..is is okay or avoid 🤔
Avoid! I have The Sinn 104! instead buy the Zelos EAGLE 2 TI it has the La Joux Perret G100. 10 times better movement!
Changing the damaged wheel is very simple and does not require so much explanation.
Hi nice Video
Would you say that sellita or eta is a bad manufacturer?
Btw where are you from, you've got a remarkable accent.
My first thought is, can't we just take out the winding gear, and make it just an automatic? I'm sad to hear that basic watch repair in your area is about as scarce and expensive as it is in mine. The only "serviceable" movements around here are in a watch that costs many thousands and is an investment timepiece because of the expense. I think I'll need to make watch repair a hobby if I want something like a reasonably priced watch to be serviceable. Those movements don't cost that much buying them new..
i love glycering watches
Same thing happened with my Glycine, I'm so disappointed
Pitty if you have a screw down crown, then you are forced to "wind" it. Suppose I will just do it slowly