Ha year late reply but my old setup was an E cam on an auto stock converter, and I’ll tell you right now it sucked without a tune. I had to put it in neutral at stoplights because the brakes sucked so bad in gear. Car still pulled well up top but it was a dog down low. The best 60ft I had was like a 2.70 or something line that. Putting a 2400 stall converter in it didn’t make much of a difference either, people aren’t lying when they say a 5 spd is the only way to go
Much appreciated! The e303 is the better sounding cam (that's just my opinion) but it's all about what your after and your combo. At least that's what they tell me lol.
Nice!!!! I finally got to see the very rare "1/4 Race Cam" lol great video and review. Dang man that garage is sooo much smaller than the one we did the head swap in!!!
@@alanhardman2447 I absolutely hated that garage, we have moved since and now we have a much better set up. I now have enough room to change my mind, tires, brakes, just about anything lol👍
I’ve never related to anything more than when you said with the jig covers you couldn’t hear the lifter noise but with the proper ones on you would still hear it 😂
Lol, thanks. Working out in the elements is no fun. When I was in Florida I really hated working outside in the summer, not bc the heat, but the millions of mosquitoes 😬😬
Tnx for your video. Im a cleqvo guy. Im not happy without a 750 square bore. A cam that pulls to atleast 6gs. Always sounds goood, goes good and not droney.
I made the switch from an E cam to the F cam years ago. The car felt much snappier and better with the E cam. Low end and mid range was much better. The F cam was faster at the track
@@fomobros2207 building a 302 5 speed ranger. 302 out of a 2000 explorer cam only for now..then pulling it back apart for a 331 and custom grind for my truck from Ed Curtis
Love the badass T-tops, and I'm a sucker for a 4 eye. I've got an 89 1/2, hopefully I'll get some videos up of my engine rebuild soon. I'm currently debating on putting an alphabet Cam in it.
Thanks! Of all the HR cams for SBF’s the Alphabet cams are usually the least expensive which is a plus and you know stock lifters will work and other valve train components. My bro had a Steeda cam in one of his cars which required a bronze dizzy gear ( I think it bronze). The gear got ate up. He then put a steel gear in against Steeda’s council and never had another issue. But it left a bad taste in his mouth. I’d really like to see your 89 and know what cam you end up with. What kind of heads are you going with?
I’m building a 302 with AFR 165cc heads, Summit Racing EFI, single plane Ford Racing intake, and a E303 cam for my ‘88 F150......I’m thinking I should’ve bought the F303 haha. Great review!
That sounds like it's going to be an awesome truck! You know I could have lived a long happy life with that E cam...in my opinion the E cam sounded meaner. However sometimes when my car starts up on a hot start the RPM's are a bit lower than usual and that F cam really sounds off. It all depends on what you are using that truck of yours for though. If you are building a fun daily driver then I'd say you were wise to choose the E cam, if you are building an all out racer then give it all the cam lol. Are you going to run a bigger stall converter or is it a manual?
Ray Stang I just rebuilt the AOD and added a TransGo reprogramming kit. I want to run a stall converter but I’m not exactly sure which one to buy. Any suggestions?
@@brianmccants5098 Oh I have NO clue lol. I went ahead and asked my brother his thoughts on what stall you could use and he gave me a pretty good answer. He's noticed that stall converters rated at 2,800 and up are quite a bit more expensive than a stall rated at 2,700 RPM's. So he suggested looking at a 2,700 RPM stall, since your truck is a bit heavier than a Fox Mustang the converter will slip up to 2,700 if not more. However, really light cars usually won't slip up to the number the stall converter is rated at. As far as a brand name goes, I got nothing for ya man lol. I like name brands unless someone I trust can convince me to try something else. I actually thought long and hard about putting the engine that's in my Mustang into a Crown Vic (and call it a Clydesdale) and getting a decent torque converter for it, but for better or worse I ended up with my '84.
I wonder if something like a Comp XE258HR would work better in a truck. They make one with a 114 degree lobe separation angle that guys use to hop up 5.0 Explorers.
@@fomobros2207 I just got my brother-in-laws 67 fastback that needs a total restoration. It has a 6 banger in it that I’m going to replace with a 302 5.0 that I already have. I’ll probably go with the same set up. Maybe bump it up to a stroker motor. Don’t know yet. Need more cash!!!
I daily drove my 88 GT with gt40 iron heads I ported and a Lunati part number 51014 cam. Ran 12.00’s at 111 and drove beautiful. I’d love to see how you like that cam. Great video. Gt40 upper and lower also.
Dang!!! So at this point I kinda feel like throwing heads and a cam at a car is something lots of competent parts changers can do (like myself). But to get that deep in the 12's and to drive the car daily is no joke, it's freakin' awesome. To be honest I drive my car daily and it does great, but it is not dialed in for max performance. I really enjoy 50Tussin's channel and he runs iron GT-40's on a lot of his cars with great results as well. If I had to start from scratch I would probably do some Junkyard GT-40 heads and see if I could get my brother to port them for me.
FoMoBro's definitely! I got mine from a junk yard as well. They came off a crashed lightning F150. If u do it make sure you put in a better set of springs. I made that mistake and they floated at 5000 or so rpm. When I changed the springs the car was an animal hahaha. Good luck man whatever you do. Great videos.
I have the same set up as you Frank A. I also have a ported mass air meter, 65 mm throttle body, 24 lb injectors, JBA shorty headers with a Dr gas X-pipe and 2 chamber Flow Master mufflers. The lower GT-40 intake is also ported.
Great video! Definitely subscribed I got a 94 gt that I need to bring back to life! I was going to do an explorer engine but seeing your video made me think about getting a 351w instead if I get lucky at the junk yard! Just don’t know what cars and what year to look for
Your too kind and I love the SN95's with the pushrod V8's!! My 351 is out of a 86 Bronco which makes it a non-roller engine sooo i had to spend the big bucks for "retro-fit roller lifters" I wouldn't suggest doing it the way I did unless you just want to throw an extra $400 at it lol (I'm crying on the inside). I "think" all trucks and vans with a 351 starting in 1994 have roller cams, in my opinion that's the way to go. I'm assuming you've watched 50tussin's channel, but if you haven't he goes into pretty good detail on what cars to look for, and i believe he mentions casting numers "F4TE" are the golden numbers for a roller 351W
Ray Stang ahhh I did the same haha I went to purchase a 351w from a truck that was a 1996 so I figured it would be hydraulic roller but when I got home I realized it was a solid roller haha that’s what got me messed up the person probably wasn’t sure on the year it was, but ima keep a look out for 94 newer 351 at my yard! Always wanted a 351w swap my sn95 so I think now is the perfect time!
Ray Stang thanks I’ll check out his channels I’ve seen his videos and I am subscribed to him but I don’t think I’ve seen the 351w video you are talking about I’m going to look for it right now thank you very much for your help
Thanks for the review man. I'm building a very mild carb 351w myself and got an e cam for free pretty much. I wonder how it will do with 1.7 rockers, any experience with such setup?
Unfortunately I don’t, I have only had 1.6’s on this car. I gave that E cam to my brother, he plans on using 1.7’s with it and he typically has good luck with his setups. With 351 cubic inches we could go considerably bigger with cam choice for big hp, but I really liked my E cam, it sounded mean, it was more than peppy, and didn’t kick my butt in traffic.
In my Foxbody I had a 331 stroker. With 1.6 rockers and and f303 and it was amazing it also had gt40 heads and upper and lower intake but it was amazing
Are your link bar lifters designed for a roller cams swap? I thought you had to use a reduced base circle cam to keep the lifters from coming too far out of the bores and losing oil pressure.
Ignorance is bliss lol (on my part bc I never heard that before). Honestly I am not sweating it though. I have had more than enough valvetrain issues with this engine and 3 out of 4 have been all my fault. I did have a cheap rocker stud snap which I take no credit for, but all the other issues i can take the credit for. I had a lifter that made excessive noise (I forgot to install an oil plug that keeps the lifters oiled, I also ruined that lifter putting excessive preload on it and had to buy another pair of Howard's) I also misdiagnosed a lifter noise (exhaust leak). This engine has been my daily workhorse for nearly four years so I REALLY think the lifters must be for roller cam swaps as it behaves very well despite my best efforts to screw it up lol
I never been a fan of the E. Habe built and tested many engine combos with it and wven had a couple inmy own projects. If I were to seek out a letter cam, the F is my go to. Only thing I like about the E is how fast they sell when I get one in the shop. I can sell them as is or build an engine and advertise it with the cam installed and boom! Sold lol.
Hey man, I really enjoyed the video. Glad to see others experiences and advice. I just finished my bored 302(.020 over all new internals), E303, gt40p, explorer intakes etc...I absolutely love the way it sounds. Chip just went in a few days ago. Only 2 drives since. It helped alot. I'm curious...how much difference with say, 1.6 scorpions Roller rockers? I have the stock rocker arms on it & wish I would've just done rollers but..what's your experience between the two?
I bet it sounds MEAN!! Ok, so I used to believe rockers were worth about 15-20hp.....But I have been persuaded to think otherwise. Not sure if you watch 50Tussin's channel, but that man get's things done and for budget prices. He believes that roller rockers are a waste of money, he advises to spend that money elsewhere. BUT the short answer is I don't have any real experience noticing one is better than the other lol. Have you watched the engine masters about stud mount rockers? That might help you make your decision. However, if memory serves the differences in HP were waaay high in the RPM's.
Sorry for the double tap...I was talking with my bro about stock rockers on Fords and apparently NOT all rockers are created equal (I’m talking ratio). Word on the street is they could vary from 1.3 all the way up to 1.66. Pretty crazy! So I have to redact what I said in my other comment. If you can afford Scorpions go for it. I’ve been told to stay away from Proform rockers, I hear they break at the fulcrum.
I actually didn't know they came as 1.33. Lol. My stock rocker arms are actually 1.6 but the ROLLER rockers are lighter weight as well as rolling style so it's supposed to ease up on the valve train & create a smoother running engine as well as a bit of an increase in how the engine will go through the rpms. As for hp, I don't believe they actually increase any hp rather help the vehicle make better use of what hp is there.
It is! I picked up this car seven years ago for a steal…..but every dime I saved I ended up spending on something else for this car that I “needed”. Thanks for the comment man👍
Having the 351 allows you to have your cake and eat it too in a foxbody. The extra cubes of the 351 gives the extra torque down low that you would have lost having the 302. With the Windsor Jr. Heads you have a foundation to build a great street engine. I have World Products Windsor SR heads on my 302 and they are milled down to achieve 10.5 to 1 compression ratio, and a lunati 51014 cam. The car runs like a beast!
Yeah, your car sounds like it makes real good power up high!! I think I mentioned it in the video that I used to have a Stang that was strong up top, but annoying to drive on the street and since I am honestly just a street driver I wanted to err on the side of mild. You're right the Windsor Jr's with a 351 is a nice street set-up. Lol, it requires NO skill to drive, no one has been able to stall it yet.
@@fomobros2207 yes it makes power up high as well as down low. The higher compression ratio that I obtained boosted my torque considerably, from idle to 6k. Also I knew that with the larger port of the SR heads I would loose low lift velocity and would affect low speed response. So in my case increasing compression is a must and WORTH WHILE when using a larger cam and big flowing heads with small displacement. She really moves!! It all worked out beautifully and the way she runs all things considered I can't complain. It's running 11.90s in the quarter N/A so far. Although the main reason I gotten the SR heads is that I want room to grow when I get a 351 as well in the near future. Other than that if I didn't have plans to go bigger I would have probably gotten the Jr's instead. Either way they are great heads!
I had the Windsor jr heads worked well at 10.5:1 on the street. Iron. Had to run 93 octane. Holdener did some tests that included the Windsor jrs. On 360hp combo Windsor jr was worth 15hp over gt40. However edelbrock performer heads were worth 20hp over the Windsor jr and afr 165 and tfs tw worth 15hp over the performers. Windsor jr with porting bringing them to 250cfm or so Will MAke them perform but will cost.
I have the Roush 200's on my camper vans 351W. Pretty decent heads. They been on quite a few different engine combos of mine over the years and now are my smallest set of theads in my fleet. So camper van they went lol.
@@dennisrobinson8008 if you know how to port heads there is no extra cost, other than time. Making more power when you can without always shelling out money is REAL HOT RODDING.
How's the fuel economy with the 351? I want to build a mild and hopefully somewhat efficient daily driver, I'd be happy with 13's and 20 mpg with a 5 speed and 3.55:1's
My fuel economy is horrific lol. But I do not actually know my MPG's because my current trans does not have the mechanical speedometer provision (this trans is from a 2000 V6 Mustang) there are also a few other key varaiables that could be hurting my MPG's that I haven't gotten around to addressing. I have a .68 overdrive with 3.45:1's and 225/55/16's. Obviously my car is carb'd and I just don't "think" you could get those numbers you want with a carb (that's just my opinion and I'm not that carb savvy). However, with an EFI set up I "think" those numbers you want sound reasonable. What kind of car are you putting together and what's the engine set-up?
Maybe cheating 'cause it's a small truck, but had an extremely mild 351C (maybe 380-400HP) in my 86 Ranger with 3.55s and a T5Z, and that is precisely what it did: mid 13s on street legal tires and 21-22 on the highway. When having fun with it, mileage went down to the same as it got on the strip. :) When I changed it to an auto with mid-range stall converter & a prehistoric Holley ProJection 4, it was "easier" (yuck) to drive, or at least harder to miss a gear, and performed the same at the strip, but the fuel mileage went straight to Hell. With the same gears, loose converter & no overdrive it was no fun to take on a freeway, anyway...noisy little devil.
@@fomobros2207 I have a 94 351 roller block, GT 40 heads, a 94 GT cam edelbrock performer intake and a Holley 600 4V. I want to get 1.72 roller rockers, bee hive springs, a windage tray and thin low friction rings on flat top pistons. Not sure what vehicle to put it in yet, something small and light, probably put a 5 speed behind it.
Did you put the cam in straight up or advance it? Im contemplating putting an F cam and advancing it 4degs. I am running the comp nx264hr and it runs and drives good but want something a little bigger.
If your going to be bad then be terrible lol. I just looked up your cam specs and except for the intake duration all the other numbers were kinda close. I guess I am afraid you may do all that work changing cams and not have much of a difference. To be honest I do not understand much about cams aside from lift, duration, and LSA. So if you've done your homework then send it! lol Oh yeah, dot to dot/straight up on the cam gears. Good luck man!!!
I can't remember if I mentioned it in this vid, but back in the day I had a 91 GT with the B cam and 1.7's and that thing was a BEAST on the top end, but not much fun to drive in traffic. I found out after I sold it that when I timed it I was too conservative and that didn't help it's drivability.
How high do you turn this thing? I see the tach with a 6k rpm indicator. I imagine the extra lift of the F cam helps it load the springs more, therefore more RPM potential.
Honestly I kind of drive like a grandpa and I just arbitrarily put that indicator at 6k lol. Sometimes on the way home I might do a first or second gear pull and I'll get to 6k give or take before I shift, but I mostly treat it like a daily driver. The cam claims power up to 6,200 and I'd imagine the springs can handle it, but I just mostly find myself cruising. At any rate were you considering an E cam or an F cam for a 302 or 351?
@@fomobros2207 I had an F cam but it doesn't clear the 351w truck pistons with a 2.02" intake valve, so I kept the stock TE cam. Still love the sound of the F cam, but concerned it would be tough to tune with the cold temps I live in. The most surprising part here is that the F cam seems smoother than the E at idle, but yet the E is emissions friendly. At any rate I am trying to push the stock cam closer to 6400 rpm, but keep needing more spring pressure
@@1stockcam What does "TE" mean? I asked my brother what it meant and he thought maybe it meant E7TE like the casting number on the heads. So my car is carb'd and i thought I was going to have to richen it up when put the higher/lift higher duration F cam and guess what, it barely made a difference. I'm sure your car is a whole different beast when it comes to tuning, but I was shocked that according to my AFR gauge there was a very small difference between the cams. IMO the E cam sounded better lol. I think the tough sounding idle of the E cam is due to the tighter LSA. The vacuum gauge is also less "bouncy" with the F cam.
Yeah I know how people love that lope haha. The te cam is the cam that ford used in pretty much all 302 and roller 351w after the Fox body. So Explorer cam basically. A little less lift on the intake (.422” instead of the .498 or .444 I think) but pretty similar to the ho cam otherwise.It has a te stamping on it. At any rate good info thanks buddy, good job
@@1stockcam I really appreciate that!! And thanks for the lesson on cams! Lol it's rare that someone can stump my brother on 5.0 knowledge, I'll pass the info onto my bro. Going fast with stock parts like that TE cam takes brain power, super cool!!
I noticed you have link bar lifters. Did you run the no-name Chinese lifters or the pricey ones? If they are the no-names, I wonder how they are working for you. I have a roller 351w in my formerly cfi 85. It has an E cam and Gt40 iron heads. I am running a Pro-Comp knockoff of the Stealth dual plane and it barely fits under the stock hood with the dual snorkel. My gas mileage is terrible at 13 around town and 17 on the highway with 3.27 gears and a 5 speed. I might swap out the heads and cam for Blueprint parts from a crate engine I bought. The cam has specs similar to the XE266HR and the heads are aluminum, but don't flow fantastic.
No issues from the lifters (unless self induced, it’s a long story) Lol my opinion of pricey tends to be “cheap” to other car guys. I spent $350 on mine, they are the Howard’s brand and considering you can buy replacement non link HR lifters for $100 then I think calling these pricey isn’t a stretch. I remember you telling me about your car, we had some back and forth on an UTG vid. That’s a cool setup I really wanted to get a Stealth intake but they were out of stock at Summit when I tried to order. I can relate, back when I had the stock hood on my car the clearance was very tight, I couldn’t even use a wing nut to hold down the air cleaner.
@@fomobros2207 Looks like you got a good price on the Howards lifters. I found them around $400 when I thought of buying a set. Where did you get them? Nice to see a video of your car. I think I recall our discussion about the in-tank pusher pump vs. aftermarket external fuel pump. Looks like your car is a GT350. Looking and sounding good.
I got the lifters from Summit back in 2012. It took a long time to nickel and dime this engine and then buy a car for it, so even though the long block was nearly done in 2012 the engine wasn’t put into service until 2016 which is long enough to watch inflation on car parts like lifters lol. Good eye, it is a GT350 and that is much appreciated, thanks. Maybe the next time you have a moment you could film a walk around of you 1985
@@fomobros2207 Well I wonder how your XE274HR cam compares to the F and E cams your engine had. Any draggy times with the F cam versus the XE274HR? I kept the E303 in mine with the Blueprint heads. I hope to get it to the track soon. If I am not consistently in the 12s, then maybe next year I will swap the cam out. I am pretty pleased so far. Main reason I kept the E cam was I was not looking forward to pulling it out and I don't think I have a cam ready to go that would be noticeably better. If you think the XE274HR cam is a big improvement over the F cam, then I will probably swap my XE274HR into it next year. It was mild enough in the 302 it is currently in.
sbf_fox Unfortunately I don’t have a draggy, Richard has the draggy. I gotta get this old car dialed in a bit more, but I am really banking on this thing having more pep once I get the total timing right (maybe some more carb tuning as well). I’ve never had the total timing right which is on me, but moving from Florida to New Mexico really changed the feel of the car (slower😕) which unfortunately adds more variables to the equation. I’m thinking your car will be in the 12’s with the ProForm’s, not to mention you lost a good amount of weight from the front of your car going from cast iron to aluminum heads 👍
Cool to see a direct honest comparison. As after reading the comments, I wonder if you or your bro know anything about swapping a 460 into a fox? I built the motor for a truck I had, moved to Texas and the truck stayed. Would like to fox swap my motor lol
Thanks man! Neither Richard or I have done a 460 swap. However, I know that he's helped someone or knew a guy that's done one in the past. I'll have him get you a reply, btw his handle is Sikulz9550
Hey Greg, I’ve had 2 friends do that swap, both used the Ford Racing swap kit, headers oil pan etc. one guy put everything together on the stock k-member and then raised it up from underneath, the other guy had a tubular k-member and put his in from the topside like usual. Good luck. That’ll be a BEAST!!!!
One other tidbit of advice on that swap, it may be to your benefit to do a manual conversion on your brakes. That 460 is huge and the brake booster may be really tight on the valve cover.
Use steel valve covers of a cobra, not the aluminum ones that come on regular 5.0's! It helps with the valve train noise especially with the 1.7 roller rockers. That's why they put them on Factory Cobra's. In case you didn't know, lol.
Awww man, it’s been a whole saga with that valve train. It was a self induced issue. I didn’t install a 1/4” npt oil plug 🤦♂️. The funny thing is that the lifter didn’t start to sound off until I put the F cam in, anyways lesson learned 😂
@@ElPinchiPeri I don't personally know, but one of my favorite youtubers put special valve springs on his car and he runs an X cam. Since the X cam has less lift than the Z cam I would think the Z cam would need some tougher springs as well.
@@andywagoner4869 I just asked my brother about that. He was telling me he heard stock springs could handle .500" of lift, since the F is .512" it's already pushing the envelope. Not to mention, he heard this 20 years ago, just imagine how much springier our engines were two decades ago lol. I would still be tempted to pull the trigger on the cam swap and worry about the springs a few pay checks down the road. Of course it's your car, your money, time, etc. Do you have a 94 Cobra? I really like the SN 95 5.0's
@@fomobros2207 oh hey thanks. I am pretty.sure I'll change the valve springs when I do the cam. I do have a 94 cobra. It is one of 1306 white Cobras built in 94. Factory gt40 heads and intake with some basic bolt ons. Headers, off road h pipe, flow master cat back, cold air intake, bbk 75mm throttle body, short throw shifter, lowering springs, caster camber plates, upr tubular upper and lower control arms and 3:73 rear gears.
I like B cams. I just checked out your vid of the Mustang II with the B cam! That is sweet! Unfortunately there is a pretty rad cobra II at a local JY, hopefully someone (that’s not me) scoops it up. I’ll put some footage of it in one of my next posts.
I have a 5 speed with a .68 overdrive, 3.45 gears, and 225/55/16 tires. On the highway I can cruise as low as 1,700 RPM (I wouldn't cruise for too long at that RPM) and sometimes I'll keep it at 2,500 RPM. Now I have a 5.8 so I can probably get away with lower RPM's than a 5.0 could. Random side note: my brother came to visit me in his 95 GT with TrickFlow heads, B cam, Systemax intake, and 4.10 gears and he ran on the interstate at 3,000 RPM's for hours and hours, put down good numbers at the dyno (320 something at the wheels) and drove it 7 hours home AND he got decent MPG's lol.
If you pay shipping. I should find you a nice pair of 2V closed chambers, im planning on bossing the 5ltr gtp with 302c heads. 77 - 82 were the best. Mick.
I’m good on heads right now, but I’d like to hear some more about the heads you use. You said “77-82 were the best” are those 351/400M heads? I LOVE the way a Clevor and Boss look. i just don’t need to build one at the moment
@@fomobros2207 ok. From 77 to 82 the 302 clevo,s were the better heads, the intakes were 2mm higher and port up nice. As they are stock, on flat tops is around 11to1. 450 hp has been done many times with just springs.
As far as why the cams are named in letter format... I think it’s just how Ford does business, for example Model A, Model T. I honestly don’t know though. In a perfect world we could go to the JY and pull E cams from Econlines and F cams in F-150’s at least that’s the world I want to live in lol
It’s an 86 block, so it’s a non roller. I had to spend some money for the roller lifters with link bars. These pistons don’t have the deep dish like some 351’s. These are hyper pistons made by KB and look just like the stock 86’s, they have a dish with two “eyebrow” valve reliefs
@@fomobros2207 are you still running that setup? Any issues with piston to valve clearance? How's the low end torque? I'm fixing to build my 351 for a 66 bronco an just curious how well it preforms.
@@ksz15252 I put a bigger cam in about a year ago. XE274HR I think .555/.565 lift with 224/232 duration. The numbers may be wrong, but you can verify with that part number above. Plenty of low end torque and no piston to valve clearance issues with any cam I’ve run👍👍
I have a b303 Not fully understanding when degree the Cam where should it get degree to? And if I should put a 1.7 rocker arm on the intake or or the exhaust or both help
What a loaded question. I’ll give you my 2 cents, but don’t take it as gospel. I line my timing gears up dot to dot. The previous motor I put together I advanced bc my brother told me it would be happy for low end torque and that’s what I wanted for a daily. There are tons of opinions out there and I would see if engine masters covers that as well. Same thing with your rocker question. I know a guy that ran NA, but only put 1.7’s on the exhaust, others say that’s a supercharger set up and a 1.7 on the intake is a good turbocharger setup. All in all, I had a B cam with 1.7’s and I loved every minute of it 🤣🤣🤣
It was a great daily. The only difference was the E cam was a bit more tempermental on cold mornings, which I think is due to the tighter LSA (my car is also carb'd)
@@fomobros2207 I. EFI..So may have to get it tuned. Trying g to decide this one or the b cam only. Nothing else ..no future mods..nothing else. A On this motor I should say. Budding a 331 for another project
@@19jody72 Gotcha, well my brother and I think E cam has that rough and tough lope, However, my bro currently has a B cam in his 95 and it is pretty dang strong. He also suggested the N-41 as a great off the shelf cam
Your too kind lol! Rodney claims to be Substandard, but he is too legit to quit. My brother Richard helps out a lot with my channel and sends me footage of wrenching and racing his 88' Stang, so thanks to him I get to put some 1/8th mile stuff up as well. Do you have a Fox, project, or Hotrod that you're wrenching on?
I like the 351 but I’m with Rodney I like the 302 so much potential and there cheap I’d rather build a 351 if I had the money but for substandard 302 is my thang. I bet your stang would sound Vicious with the all mighty B cam though.. I’m curious to know what your 1/8 time is. What’s your gear I’m assuming you have the 4 speed top loader. Anyways it’s a fox and it’s badass man keep making videos 351’s are torque monsters. Race crank pulley and electric fans really help free up power. Made my car feel like I put 4.10’s in it.
Luckily no. Heads stay on for a cam swap. You do have to take off the intake manifold, the timing cover and plenty other parts to get the cam out though👍
It only made 286 with the E cam. Once I put the F cam in it put down a lack luster 270....this isn’t the cams fault. Since this engine has been put together it has only had a 625 street demon carb which is outstanding for daily use, but it leans out at high RPM. The tuner that ran the dyno said it quite pulling considerably past 4,000 I think. If you are really bored you can find the video on the channel lol. Bottom line, I still think the F cam is great had way more potential in this combination 👍👍
This answer may be too vague, but they all give the car a different “personality”. There is a lot that goes into numbers that make up a cams characteristics. If we’re talking lift (in ascending order) it would be B, E, F. For duration (in ascending order) it would be E, B, F. There’s a lot that goes into camshaft design and I honestly understand just the basics.
I really think it would, but the standard answer is to check the piston to valve clearance with clay or play dough. I think one of my CZcams friends put some test springs on his heads and then was able to measure the piston to valve clearance that way. I’m not 100 percent sure about that method, but it may be a worthwhile something to look up on google
Hey man, sorry for the late reply. I think CZcams forgot to notify me of your comment. At any rate, I had a B cam in my previous Mustang. It was a 91 GT 5 speed. My brother ported a set of E7's (very very aggressively) and that thing was a pain in the butt to drive. Below 3,000 RPM's you either had your foot on the gas or a foot on the clutch and brake. NO cruising. But it pulled REALLY hard from 3,000 and up. Just before I sold it my brother and Dad timed it a little higher and the car behaved better (I wasn't around to enjoy it though lol). My brother currently has a 1995 with a B cam and it runs really good (deep in the 12's in the quarter mile). Not always the most driver friendly, but he's more than used to it. And to be fair there is a lot of people that are not to fond of the computers in the SN-95 5.0's so that could definitely contribute to the 95's "edgy nature"
FoMoBro's no worries at all I appreciate the response late or not! This is helpful info as I’m doing a 302 swapped bmw, not really going to be a cruise around car more of a drift/track car so the B can is defenitly of interest, just don’t really have any locals I can talk to about it.
@@bretpetrie7044 That sounds like a really neat build!! OK, so I've only cobbled together a couple cars and they all had a daily driver mentality, so I won't be tons of help. Do you watch any of FXRS driver's videos? He's a sharp dude that has lot's of combo's underneath his belt and he builds them a little more on the race side than the daily side. I don't think he likes the Ford "alphabet" cams as much as I do, but I love them because stock style lifters, pushrods, and distributor gears will work. Some aftermarket cams require more specialty (pricey) parts. Here is one of his videos that mentions B cams czcams.com/video/u9Lswe8u_GE/video.html
@@oscarvillarreal8951 THE MOST AWSOME SOUNDING CAM. IT HAD LOTS OF TOP END ON THE 302 WE BUILT. THE LOWER END LACKED PULL FROM THE START, POSSIBLY BECAUSE IT WAS A AUTOMATIC WITH A AOD WHICH USES LOTS OF POWER BUT STRONG AS HELL. BUT ONCE THE CAM HIT THE MIDRANGE TO TOP END IT PULLED LIKE CRAZY. I REMEMBER GOING TO ENGLISH TOWN RACEWAY FROM NEW YORK CITY TO JERSEY AND GOING THROUGH THE TOLL BOOTHS. AND THE SOUND IT WAS MAKING UNDER TO TOLL BOOTH AS WE WAITED TO PAY THE TOLL. AND AS WE PULLED UP TO THE CLERK. HE LOOKED AT THE CAR AND WAS AMAZED AT THE EXHAUST NOTE AND SAID WHAT THE FUCK IS THIS, THE SOUND IS INCREDIBLE. MONTHS LATER MY FRIEND HOOKED UP WITH A GIRL UPSTATE ON THE INTERNET AND LATER ON IN THE DAY WHEN HE LEFT A POLICE CAR PULLED UP NEXT TO HIM (WHEN COPS WERE HUMAN BEINGS AND NOT THE PREDATORY KILLERS THEY ARE TODAY, THAT WHEN YOU LOOKED AT A UNIFORM YOU ADMIRED WHAT THE BADGE STOOD FOR). ASKED MY FRIEND TO DO HIM A FAVOR AND PULL A HOLE SHOT AND SMOKE THE WHEELS. HE GAVE THE COP THE THRILL OF HIS LIFE. ALL IN ALL FROM WHAT I KNOW IT IS A SUPERCHARGER DESIGNED CAM. BUT YOU DO THE RESEARCH MY FACTS CAN ALSO BE WRONG.
Yeah.....I kinda regret going with the 625 sometimes lol. If I ever run across a decent priced 750 AND nothing else is broken or requires attention I'll probably scoop one up. I really like these Street Demon's, but beggars can't be choosers.
@@westsideslide5873 I love the 94 and 95 Mustangs! Pushrod sn95's are kind of under appreciated right now, but it's only a matter of time before collectors realize that its the last of the 5.0 Mustangs (the real 5.0)
all them letter cams are junk only one that ok is the f and most peoples feeling will get hurt but people just wanna sound cool and have that chop but they cause less torque and hp. Bigger is not alway better you float your valves and does not close your valves fast enough at high rpm’s even with bigger springs iv ran them all on my fully built 94 svt cobra and I switched to a high energy comps cam computer controlled and made way more power with a mild cam if your lift and duration and lobe separation is perfect you’ll make a lot of vacuum and killer power your valves can only open so much and so fast it’s high compression and good flowing heads with the perfect cam that makes a real motor people need to understand and will never unless they dyno the car but will say if anything go with a f cam but rest are garbage they are not a race cam
It totally does, which is kinda funny bc when I got into Foxbody’s back in the day a lot of my friends would tell me to stay away from the E cam bc it sounded too tame, as we now know that’s not the case👍
With flat top pistons with no valve reliefs I wouldn’t have much faith. But I “think” you’d be fine unless the heads were shaved aggressively. At any rate it’s always a good idea to do the play dough trick, turn the engine my hand and see the clearance between the valves and piston.
@@fomobros2207 just saw this video. I have a 94 with a stock bottom end with the fcam, gt40x heads, 1.7 rockers and explorer intake. No clearance issues.
How’s the cam e303 with a aod stock converter? Anyone?
Ha year late reply but my old setup was an E cam on an auto stock converter, and I’ll tell you right now it sucked without a tune. I had to put it in neutral at stoplights because the brakes sucked so bad in gear. Car still pulled well up top but it was a dog down low. The best 60ft I had was like a 2.70 or something line that. Putting a 2400 stall converter in it didn’t make much of a difference either, people aren’t lying when they say a 5 spd is the only way to go
Same here have 1995 5.0 with the Aode tranny and the cams always breaks through whenever I’m at lights very slow low end
Worse than a stock cam with a stock AOD converter.
0:32 0:32 0:32
An AOD works good with at least a 3000 converter and a 4.56 gear.
I look to all the videos.and I like more the e303 cam. The nice idle it has. it sounds very nice.good job man. Good video.
Much appreciated! The e303 is the better sounding cam (that's just my opinion) but it's all about what your after and your combo. At least that's what they tell me lol.
Nice!!!! I finally got to see the very rare "1/4 Race Cam" lol great video and review. Dang man that garage is sooo much smaller than the one we did the head swap in!!!
For real, there's just enough room for one person to work and the other person to hang out in the kitchen lol,
@@fomobros2207 - Doesn't look like enough room to change your mind in...
@@alanhardman2447 I absolutely hated that garage, we have moved since and now we have a much better set up. I now have enough room to change my mind, tires, brakes, just about anything lol👍
I’ve never related to anything more than when you said with the jig covers you couldn’t hear the lifter noise but with the proper ones on you would still hear it 😂
Haha, it seems like cars just like to mess with us sometimes.
Great job pulling into the driveway. Nice garage too. I'm working between trailers.
Lol, thanks. Working out in the elements is no fun. When I was in Florida I really hated working outside in the summer, not bc the heat, but the millions of mosquitoes 😬😬
Tnx for your video. Im a cleqvo guy. Im not happy without a 750 square bore. A cam that pulls to atleast 6gs. Always sounds goood, goes good and not droney.
Great idea with the valve covers
Thanks man, I’ve gotten some good use out of those things especially diagnosing a valve train noise...that was self inflicted lol
Glad you mentioned that it has to be fun to drive daily or whats the point for a nonrace car.
I agree - the F cam doesn't sound quite as "tough" as the E cam.
Good job breaking it down man
Thanks!
I made the switch from an E cam to the F cam years ago. The car felt much snappier and better with the E cam. Low end and mid range was much better. The F cam was faster at the track
That's cool. What's the set up in your car and do you remember the ET difference between the E cam and the F cam?
This is EXACTLY what I came to youtube for today!.thanks for the video
Heck yeah man!! That's high praise. So I gotta ask, do you have a 5.0 or a 5.8 you are putting together or going to upgrade with a different cam?
@@fomobros2207 building a 302 5 speed ranger. 302 out of a 2000 explorer cam only for now..then pulling it back apart for a 331 and custom grind for my truck from Ed Curtis
@@19jody72 Heck Yeah! That's going to be a tough ol' Danger Ranger
Love the badass T-tops, and I'm a sucker for a 4 eye. I've got an 89 1/2, hopefully I'll get some videos up of my engine rebuild soon. I'm currently debating on putting an alphabet Cam in it.
Thanks! Of all the HR cams for SBF’s the Alphabet cams are usually the least expensive which is a plus and you know stock lifters will work and other valve train components. My bro had a Steeda cam in one of his cars which required a bronze dizzy gear ( I think it bronze). The gear got ate up. He then put a steel gear in against Steeda’s council and never had another issue. But it left a bad taste in his mouth.
I’d really like to see your 89 and know what cam you end up with. What kind of heads are you going with?
The ford e303 is a cool cam for the street got one in a 331 with a good idle that not rattle the car, pulls to 6300 easily!
I absolutely LOVED my E303 Cam
Me too, it was the best sounding cam I’ve ever had in one of my cars👍
I’m building a 302 with AFR 165cc heads, Summit Racing EFI, single plane Ford Racing intake, and a E303 cam for my ‘88 F150......I’m thinking I should’ve bought the F303 haha. Great review!
That sounds like it's going to be an awesome truck! You know I could have lived a long happy life with that E cam...in my opinion the E cam sounded meaner. However sometimes when my car starts up on a hot start the RPM's are a bit lower than usual and that F cam really sounds off. It all depends on what you are using that truck of yours for though. If you are building a fun daily driver then I'd say you were wise to choose the E cam, if you are building an all out racer then give it all the cam lol. Are you going to run a bigger stall converter or is it a manual?
Ray Stang I just rebuilt the AOD and added a TransGo reprogramming kit. I want to run a stall converter but I’m not exactly sure which one to buy. Any suggestions?
@@brianmccants5098 Oh I have NO clue lol. I went ahead and asked my brother his thoughts on what stall you could use and he gave me a pretty good answer. He's noticed that stall converters rated at 2,800 and up are quite a bit more expensive than a stall rated at 2,700 RPM's. So he suggested looking at a 2,700 RPM stall, since your truck is a bit heavier than a Fox Mustang the converter will slip up to 2,700 if not more. However, really light cars usually won't slip up to the number the stall converter is rated at. As far as a brand name goes, I got nothing for ya man lol. I like name brands unless someone I trust can convince me to try something else.
I actually thought long and hard about putting the engine that's in my Mustang into a Crown Vic (and call it a Clydesdale) and getting a decent torque converter for it, but for better or worse I ended up with my '84.
I wonder if something like a Comp XE258HR would work better in a truck. They make one with a 114 degree lobe separation angle that guys use to hop up 5.0 Explorers.
I have a E303 cam in my 5.0. I love the performance and sound.
Definitely a great combo! I need more cars and money so I can put the same combination together....maybe in an old Falcon!!
@@fomobros2207 I just got my brother-in-laws 67 fastback that needs a total restoration. It has a 6 banger in it that I’m going to replace with a 302 5.0 that I already have. I’ll probably go with the same set up. Maybe bump it up to a stroker motor. Don’t know yet. Need more cash!!!
@@21lt that's going to be a mean machine!!
I daily drove my 88 GT with gt40 iron heads I ported and a Lunati part number 51014 cam. Ran 12.00’s at 111 and drove beautiful. I’d love to see how you like that cam. Great video. Gt40 upper and lower also.
Dang!!! So at this point I kinda feel like throwing heads and a cam at a car is something lots of competent parts changers can do (like myself). But to get that deep in the 12's and to drive the car daily is no joke, it's freakin' awesome. To be honest I drive my car daily and it does great, but it is not dialed in for max performance.
I really enjoy 50Tussin's channel and he runs iron GT-40's on a lot of his cars with great results as well. If I had to start from scratch I would probably do some Junkyard GT-40 heads and see if I could get my brother to port them for me.
FoMoBro's definitely! I got mine from a junk yard as well. They came off a crashed lightning F150. If u do it make sure you put in a better set of springs. I made that mistake and they floated at 5000 or so rpm. When I changed the springs the car was an animal hahaha. Good luck man whatever you do. Great videos.
I have the same set up as you Frank A. I also have a ported mass air meter, 65 mm throttle body, 24 lb injectors, JBA shorty headers with a Dr gas X-pipe and 2 chamber Flow Master mufflers. The lower GT-40 intake is also ported.
Great video! Definitely subscribed
I got a 94 gt that I need to bring back to life! I was going to do an explorer engine but seeing your video made me think about getting a 351w instead if I get lucky at the junk yard! Just don’t know what cars and what year to look for
Your too kind and I love the SN95's with the pushrod V8's!! My 351 is out of a 86 Bronco which makes it a non-roller engine sooo i had to spend the big bucks for "retro-fit roller lifters" I wouldn't suggest doing it the way I did unless you just want to throw an extra $400 at it lol (I'm crying on the inside). I "think" all trucks and vans with a 351 starting in 1994 have roller cams, in my opinion that's the way to go. I'm assuming you've watched 50tussin's channel, but if you haven't he goes into pretty good detail on what cars to look for, and i believe he mentions casting numers "F4TE" are the golden numbers for a roller 351W
Ray Stang ahhh I did the same haha I went to purchase a 351w from a truck that was a 1996 so I figured it would be hydraulic roller but when I got home I realized it was a solid roller haha that’s what got me messed up the person probably wasn’t sure on the year it was, but ima keep a look out for 94 newer 351 at my yard! Always wanted a 351w swap my sn95 so I think now is the perfect time!
Ray Stang thanks I’ll check out his channels I’ve seen his videos and I am subscribed to him but I don’t think I’ve seen the 351w video you are talking about I’m going to look for it right now thank you very much for your help
Thanks for the review man. I'm building a very mild carb 351w myself and got an e cam for free pretty much. I wonder how it will do with 1.7 rockers, any experience with such setup?
Unfortunately I don’t, I have only had 1.6’s on this car. I gave that E cam to my brother, he plans on using 1.7’s with it and he typically has good luck with his setups. With 351 cubic inches we could go considerably bigger with cam choice for big hp, but I really liked my E cam, it sounded mean, it was more than peppy, and didn’t kick my butt in traffic.
In my Foxbody I had a 331 stroker. With 1.6 rockers and and f303 and it was amazing it also had gt40 heads and upper and lower intake but it was amazing
Are your link bar lifters designed for a roller cams swap? I thought you had to use a reduced base circle cam to keep the lifters from coming too far out of the bores and losing oil pressure.
Ignorance is bliss lol (on my part bc I never heard that before). Honestly I am not sweating it though. I have had more than enough valvetrain issues with this engine and 3 out of 4 have been all my fault. I did have a cheap rocker stud snap which I take no credit for, but all the other issues i can take the credit for. I had a lifter that made excessive noise (I forgot to install an oil plug that keeps the lifters oiled, I also ruined that lifter putting excessive preload on it and had to buy another pair of Howard's) I also misdiagnosed a lifter noise (exhaust leak). This engine has been my daily workhorse for nearly four years so I REALLY think the lifters must be for roller cam swaps as it behaves very well despite my best efforts to screw it up lol
I never been a fan of the E. Habe built and tested many engine combos with it and wven had a couple inmy own projects. If I were to seek out a letter cam, the F is my go to. Only thing I like about the E is how fast they sell when I get one in the shop. I can sell them as is or build an engine and advertise it with the cam installed and boom! Sold lol.
Hey man, I really enjoyed the video. Glad to see others experiences and advice. I just finished my bored 302(.020 over all new internals), E303, gt40p, explorer intakes etc...I absolutely love the way it sounds. Chip just went in a few days ago. Only 2 drives since. It helped alot. I'm curious...how much difference with say, 1.6 scorpions Roller rockers? I have the stock rocker arms on it & wish I would've just done rollers but..what's your experience between the two?
I bet it sounds MEAN!! Ok, so I used to believe rockers were worth about 15-20hp.....But I have been persuaded to think otherwise. Not sure if you watch 50Tussin's channel, but that man get's things done and for budget prices. He believes that roller rockers are a waste of money, he advises to spend that money elsewhere. BUT the short answer is I don't have any real experience noticing one is better than the other lol. Have you watched the engine masters about stud mount rockers? That might help you make your decision. However, if memory serves the differences in HP were waaay high in the RPM's.
Sorry for the double tap...I was talking with my bro about stock rockers on Fords and apparently NOT all rockers are created equal (I’m talking ratio). Word on the street is they could vary from 1.3 all the way up to 1.66. Pretty crazy! So I have to redact what I said in my other comment. If you can afford Scorpions go for it. I’ve been told to stay away from Proform rockers, I hear they break at the fulcrum.
I actually didn't know they came as 1.33. Lol. My stock rocker arms are actually 1.6 but the ROLLER rockers are lighter weight as well as rolling style so it's supposed to ease up on the valve train & create a smoother running engine as well as a bit of an increase in how the engine will go through the rpms. As for hp, I don't believe they actually increase any hp rather help the vehicle make better use of what hp is there.
Buy 1.7 rockers they will wake up the Ford Cams.
@@garyshinn4626 do you use stock pushrods with 1.7 rockers?
Is that an 84 1/2' GT 350? I had one years ago down here in St.Augustine FL that looked Identical to your car. Good review by the way!
It is! I picked up this car seven years ago for a steal…..but every dime I saved I ended up spending on something else for this car that I “needed”. Thanks for the comment man👍
This cam has less lobe over lap 114 Degrees as opposed to the E cams 110 line center line you should have a bit more vacuums as well
Having the 351 allows you to have your cake and eat it too in a foxbody. The extra cubes of the 351 gives the extra torque down low that you would have lost having the 302. With the Windsor Jr. Heads you have a foundation to build a great street engine. I have World Products Windsor SR heads on my 302 and they are milled down to achieve 10.5 to 1 compression ratio, and a lunati 51014 cam. The car runs like a beast!
Yeah, your car sounds like it makes real good power up high!! I think I mentioned it in the video that I used to have a Stang that was strong up top, but annoying to drive on the street and since I am honestly just a street driver I wanted to err on the side of mild. You're right the Windsor Jr's with a 351 is a nice street set-up. Lol, it requires NO skill to drive, no one has been able to stall it yet.
@@fomobros2207 yes it makes power up high as well as down low. The higher compression ratio that I obtained boosted my torque considerably, from idle to 6k. Also I knew that with the larger port of the SR heads I would loose low lift velocity and would affect low speed response. So in my case increasing compression is a must and WORTH WHILE when using a larger cam and big flowing heads with small displacement. She really moves!! It all worked out beautifully and the way she runs all things considered I can't complain. It's running 11.90s in the quarter N/A so far. Although the main reason I gotten the SR heads is that I want room to grow when I get a 351 as well in the near future. Other than that if I didn't have plans to go bigger I would have probably gotten the Jr's instead. Either way they are great heads!
I had the Windsor jr heads worked well at 10.5:1 on the street. Iron. Had to run 93 octane. Holdener did some tests that included the Windsor jrs. On 360hp combo Windsor jr was worth 15hp over gt40. However edelbrock performer heads were worth 20hp over the Windsor jr and afr 165 and tfs tw worth 15hp over the performers. Windsor jr with porting bringing them to 250cfm or so Will MAke them perform but will cost.
I have the Roush 200's on my camper vans 351W. Pretty decent heads. They been on quite a few different engine combos of mine over the years and now are my smallest set of theads in my fleet. So camper van they went lol.
@@dennisrobinson8008 if you know how to port heads there is no extra cost, other than time. Making more power when you can without always shelling out money is REAL HOT RODDING.
B303 with 1.72 roller rockers is the way to go.
How's the fuel economy with the 351? I want to build a mild and hopefully somewhat efficient daily driver, I'd be happy with 13's and 20 mpg with a 5 speed and 3.55:1's
My fuel economy is horrific lol. But I do not actually know my MPG's because my current trans does not have the mechanical speedometer provision (this trans is from a 2000 V6 Mustang) there are also a few other key varaiables that could be hurting my MPG's that I haven't gotten around to addressing.
I have a .68 overdrive with 3.45:1's and 225/55/16's. Obviously my car is carb'd and I just don't "think" you could get those numbers you want with a carb (that's just my opinion and I'm not that carb savvy). However, with an EFI set up I "think" those numbers you want sound reasonable. What kind of car are you putting together and what's the engine set-up?
Maybe cheating 'cause it's a small truck, but had an extremely mild 351C (maybe 380-400HP) in my 86 Ranger with 3.55s and a T5Z, and that is precisely what it did: mid 13s on street legal tires and 21-22 on the highway. When having fun with it, mileage went down to the same as it got on the strip. :) When I changed it to an auto with mid-range stall converter & a prehistoric Holley ProJection 4, it was "easier" (yuck) to drive, or at least harder to miss a gear, and performed the same at the strip, but the fuel mileage went straight to Hell. With the same gears, loose converter & no overdrive it was no fun to take on a freeway, anyway...noisy little devil.
@@fomobros2207 I have a 94 351 roller block, GT 40 heads, a 94 GT cam edelbrock performer intake and a Holley 600 4V. I want to get 1.72 roller rockers, bee hive springs, a windage tray and thin low friction rings on flat top pistons. Not sure what vehicle to put it in yet, something small and light, probably put a 5 speed behind it.
@@haastyle661 My vote is a LTD LX
13s? A stock 302 with the 10 minute tune up, 3.73s, and a tire will put you in the 12s in good air.
Did you put the cam in straight up or advance it? Im contemplating putting an F cam and advancing it 4degs. I am running the comp nx264hr and it runs and drives good but want something a little bigger.
If your going to be bad then be terrible lol. I just looked up your cam specs and except for the intake duration all the other numbers were kinda close. I guess I am afraid you may do all that work changing cams and not have much of a difference. To be honest I do not understand much about cams aside from lift, duration, and LSA. So if you've done your homework then send it! lol Oh yeah, dot to dot/straight up on the cam gears. Good luck man!!!
The almighty Bcam with 1.7RRs FTW!!!
I can't remember if I mentioned it in this vid, but back in the day I had a 91 GT with the B cam and 1.7's and that thing was a BEAST on the top end, but not much fun to drive in traffic. I found out after I sold it that when I timed it I was too conservative and that didn't help it's drivability.
I love that combo with some 3 bar GT-40 Heads!
How high do you turn this thing? I see the tach with a 6k rpm indicator.
I imagine the extra lift of the F cam helps it load the springs more, therefore more RPM potential.
Honestly I kind of drive like a grandpa and I just arbitrarily put that indicator at 6k lol. Sometimes on the way home I might do a first or second gear pull and I'll get to 6k give or take before I shift, but I mostly treat it like a daily driver. The cam claims power up to 6,200 and I'd imagine the springs can handle it, but I just mostly find myself cruising. At any rate were you considering an E cam or an F cam for a 302 or 351?
@@fomobros2207 I had an F cam but it doesn't clear the 351w truck pistons with a 2.02" intake valve, so I kept the stock TE cam. Still love the sound of the F cam, but concerned it would be tough to tune with the cold temps I live in. The most surprising part here is that the F cam seems smoother than the E at idle, but yet the E is emissions friendly. At any rate I am trying to push the stock cam closer to 6400 rpm, but keep needing more spring pressure
@@1stockcam What does "TE" mean? I asked my brother what it meant and he thought maybe it meant E7TE like the casting number on the heads. So my car is carb'd and i thought I was going to have to richen it up when put the higher/lift higher duration F cam and guess what, it barely made a difference. I'm sure your car is a whole different beast when it comes to tuning, but I was shocked that according to my AFR gauge there was a very small difference between the cams. IMO the E cam sounded better lol. I think the tough sounding idle of the E cam is due to the tighter LSA. The vacuum gauge is also less "bouncy" with the F cam.
Yeah I know how people love that lope haha. The te cam is the cam that ford used in pretty much all 302 and roller 351w after the Fox body. So Explorer cam basically. A little less lift on the intake (.422” instead of the .498 or .444 I think) but pretty similar to the ho cam otherwise.It has a te stamping on it. At any rate good info thanks buddy, good job
@@1stockcam I really appreciate that!! And thanks for the lesson on cams! Lol it's rare that someone can stump my brother on 5.0 knowledge, I'll pass the info onto my bro. Going fast with stock parts like that TE cam takes brain power, super cool!!
I noticed you have link bar lifters. Did you run the no-name Chinese lifters or the pricey ones? If they are the no-names, I wonder how they are working for you. I have a roller 351w in my formerly cfi 85. It has an E cam and Gt40 iron heads. I am running a Pro-Comp knockoff of the Stealth dual plane and it barely fits under the stock hood with the dual snorkel. My gas mileage is terrible at 13 around town and 17 on the highway with 3.27 gears and a 5 speed. I might swap out the heads and cam for Blueprint parts from a crate engine I bought. The cam has specs similar to the XE266HR and the heads are aluminum, but don't flow fantastic.
No issues from the lifters (unless self induced, it’s a long story) Lol my opinion of pricey tends to be “cheap” to other car guys. I spent $350 on mine, they are the Howard’s brand and considering you can buy replacement non link HR lifters for $100 then I think calling these pricey isn’t a stretch.
I remember you telling me about your car, we had some back and forth on an UTG vid. That’s a cool setup I really wanted to get a Stealth intake but they were out of stock at Summit when I tried to order. I can relate, back when I had the stock hood on my car the clearance was very tight, I couldn’t even use a wing nut to hold down the air cleaner.
@@fomobros2207 Looks like you got a good price on the Howards lifters. I found them around $400 when I thought of buying a set. Where did you get them? Nice to see a video of your car. I think I recall our discussion about the in-tank pusher pump vs. aftermarket external fuel pump. Looks like your car is a GT350. Looking and sounding good.
I got the lifters from Summit back in 2012. It took a long time to nickel and dime this engine and then buy a car for it, so even though the long block was nearly done in 2012 the engine wasn’t put into service until 2016 which is long enough to watch inflation on car parts like lifters lol. Good eye, it is a GT350 and that is much appreciated, thanks. Maybe the next time you have a moment you could film a walk around of you 1985
@@fomobros2207 Well I wonder how your XE274HR cam compares to the F and E cams your engine had. Any draggy times with the F cam versus the XE274HR? I kept the E303 in mine with the Blueprint heads. I hope to get it to the track soon. If I am not consistently in the 12s, then maybe next year I will swap the cam out. I am pretty pleased so far. Main reason I kept the E cam was I was not looking forward to pulling it out and I don't think I have a cam ready to go that would be noticeably better. If you think the XE274HR cam is a big improvement over the F cam, then I will probably swap my XE274HR into it next year. It was mild enough in the 302 it is currently in.
sbf_fox Unfortunately I don’t have a draggy, Richard has the draggy. I gotta get this old car dialed in a bit more, but I am really banking on this thing having more pep once I get the total timing right (maybe some more carb tuning as well). I’ve never had the total timing right which is on me, but moving from Florida to New Mexico really changed the feel of the car (slower😕) which unfortunately adds more variables to the equation.
I’m thinking your car will be in the 12’s with the ProForm’s, not to mention you lost a good amount of weight from the front of your car going from cast iron to aluminum heads 👍
Cool to see a direct honest comparison.
As after reading the comments, I wonder if you or your bro know anything about swapping a 460 into a fox? I built the motor for a truck I had, moved to Texas and the truck stayed. Would like to fox swap my motor lol
Thanks man! Neither Richard or I have done a 460 swap. However, I know that he's helped someone or knew a guy that's done one in the past. I'll have him get you a reply, btw his handle is Sikulz9550
Hey Greg, I’ve had 2 friends do that swap, both used the Ford Racing swap kit, headers oil pan etc. one guy put everything together on the stock k-member and then raised it up from underneath, the other guy had a tubular k-member and put his in from the topside like usual. Good luck. That’ll be a BEAST!!!!
One other tidbit of advice on that swap, it may be to your benefit to do a manual conversion on your brakes. That 460 is huge and the brake booster may be really tight on the valve cover.
X cam with 1.7 rockers is the way to go !
Use steel valve covers of a cobra, not the aluminum ones that come on regular 5.0's! It helps with the valve train noise especially with the 1.7 roller rockers. That's why they put them on Factory Cobra's. In case you didn't know, lol.
Awww man, it’s been a whole saga with that valve train. It was a self induced issue. I didn’t install a 1/4” npt oil plug 🤦♂️. The funny thing is that the lifter didn’t start to sound off until I put the F cam in, anyways lesson learned 😂
@@fomobros2207 I hear ya,lol
Hi, ¿the roller Tappet and Pushroad from the Windsor 302 are working on 351 engine?
The lifters will work for a 302 or a 351. However, the pushrods for a 351 are a lot longer and wouldn’t work in a 302.
@@fomobros2207 ¿The GT40P heads with stock springs in 5.8 engine can work with the Z303 Cam?
@@ElPinchiPeri I don't personally know, but one of my favorite youtubers put special valve springs on his car and he runs an X cam. Since the X cam has less lift than the Z cam I would think the Z cam would need some tougher springs as well.
sweet man, did you degree the cam or just line up the dots on the timing gear.
Thanks dude. I did dot to dot.
Awesome. That's the cam I am thinking about going with. I hope my stock 94 cobra valve springs can handle it.
@@andywagoner4869 I just asked my brother about that. He was telling me he heard stock springs could handle .500" of lift, since the F is .512" it's already pushing the envelope. Not to mention, he heard this 20 years ago, just imagine how much springier our engines were two decades ago lol. I would still be tempted to pull the trigger on the cam swap and worry about the springs a few pay checks down the road. Of course it's your car, your money, time, etc. Do you have a 94 Cobra? I really like the SN 95 5.0's
@@fomobros2207 oh hey thanks. I am pretty.sure I'll change the valve springs when I do the cam. I do have a 94 cobra. It is one of 1306 white Cobras built in 94. Factory gt40 heads and intake with some basic bolt ons. Headers, off road h pipe, flow master cat back, cold air intake, bbk 75mm throttle body, short throw shifter, lowering springs, caster camber plates, upr tubular upper and lower control arms and 3:73 rear gears.
@@andywagoner4869 You got a keeper!!
I'm running the B cam. I can feel it start pulling good at around 2800 rpm.
I like B cams. I just checked out your vid of the Mustang II with the B cam! That is sweet! Unfortunately there is a pretty rad cobra II at a local JY, hopefully someone (that’s not me) scoops it up. I’ll put some footage of it in one of my next posts.
@@fomobros2207 thanks. It's coming along a little at a time. That video was the first fire. It's on the road a little now and under gray primer.
What gear are you running and what are your cruising rpm I'm fixing to put a f cam with a 3500 stall in 5.0 with gt40 setup
I have a 5 speed with a .68 overdrive, 3.45 gears, and 225/55/16 tires. On the highway I can cruise as low as 1,700 RPM (I wouldn't cruise for too long at that RPM) and sometimes I'll keep it at 2,500 RPM. Now I have a 5.8 so I can probably get away with lower RPM's than a 5.0 could. Random side note: my brother came to visit me in his 95 GT with TrickFlow heads, B cam, Systemax intake, and 4.10 gears and he ran on the interstate at 3,000 RPM's for hours and hours, put down good numbers at the dyno (320 something at the wheels) and drove it 7 hours home AND he got decent MPG's lol.
@@fomobros2207 sounds great thank you for the help
If you pay shipping. I should find you a nice pair of 2V closed chambers, im planning on bossing the 5ltr gtp with 302c heads. 77 - 82 were the best. Mick.
I’m good on heads right now, but I’d like to hear some more about the heads you use. You said “77-82 were the best” are those 351/400M heads? I LOVE the way a Clevor and Boss look. i just don’t need to build one at the moment
@@fomobros2207 ok. From 77 to 82 the 302 clevo,s were the better heads, the intakes were 2mm higher and port up nice. As they are stock, on flat tops is around 11to1. 450 hp has been done many times with just springs.
What is the cr?
What is the difference between the two cams ? E = Vans F = pickups ???
As far as why the cams are named in letter format... I think it’s just how Ford does business, for example Model A, Model T. I honestly don’t know though. In a perfect world we could go to the JY and pull E cams from Econlines and F cams in F-150’s at least that’s the world I want to live in lol
What year is your block?
Mine is a 94 truck roller with dish pistons.
Are you still running the stock pistons?
It’s an 86 block, so it’s a non roller. I had to spend some money for the roller lifters with link bars.
These pistons don’t have the deep dish like some 351’s. These are hyper pistons made by KB and look just like the stock 86’s, they have a dish with two “eyebrow” valve reliefs
@@fomobros2207 are you still running that setup?
Any issues with piston to valve clearance?
How's the low end torque?
I'm fixing to build my 351 for a 66 bronco an just curious how well it preforms.
@@ksz15252 I put a bigger cam in about a year ago. XE274HR I think .555/.565 lift with 224/232 duration. The numbers may be wrong, but you can verify with that part number above. Plenty of low end torque and no piston to valve clearance issues with any cam I’ve run👍👍
5.0 Tussin all the way
I have a b303 Not fully understanding when degree the Cam where should it get degree to? And if I should put a 1.7 rocker arm on the intake or or the exhaust or both help
What a loaded question. I’ll give you my 2 cents, but don’t take it as gospel. I line my timing gears up dot to dot. The previous motor I put together I advanced bc my brother told me it would be happy for low end torque and that’s what I wanted for a daily. There are tons of opinions out there and I would see if engine masters covers that as well.
Same thing with your rocker question. I know a guy that ran NA, but only put 1.7’s on the exhaust, others say that’s a supercharger set up and a 1.7 on the intake is a good turbocharger setup. All in all, I had a B cam with 1.7’s and I loved every minute of it 🤣🤣🤣
I timed mine with my ears and driving it. I didn’t use a light.
So.let me ask this..was the e.cam a good driver?
It was a great daily. The only difference was the E cam was a bit more tempermental on cold mornings, which I think is due to the tighter LSA (my car is also carb'd)
@@fomobros2207 I. EFI..So may have to get it tuned. Trying g to decide this one or the b cam only. Nothing else ..no future mods..nothing else.
A
On this motor I should say. Budding a 331 for another project
@@19jody72 Gotcha, well my brother and I think E cam has that rough and tough lope, However, my bro currently has a B cam in his 95 and it is pretty dang strong. He also suggested the N-41 as a great off the shelf cam
A 351?!? Forget rodney. I'm watching your channel. Lol
Your too kind lol! Rodney claims to be Substandard, but he is too legit to quit. My brother Richard helps out a lot with my channel and sends me footage of wrenching and racing his 88' Stang, so thanks to him I get to put some 1/8th mile stuff up as well. Do you have a Fox, project, or Hotrod that you're wrenching on?
Don't hate on my Brutha!! we all friend's lol 😊👍✌
I like the 351 but I’m with Rodney I like the 302 so much potential and there cheap I’d rather build a 351 if I had the money but for substandard 302 is my thang. I bet your stang would sound Vicious with the all mighty B cam though.. I’m curious to know what your 1/8 time is. What’s your gear I’m assuming you have the 4 speed top loader. Anyways it’s a fox and it’s badass man keep making videos 351’s are torque monsters. Race crank pulley and electric fans really help free up power. Made my car feel like I put 4.10’s in it.
How many bolts held down your intake manifold?
Mine has 12, I believe older blocks have 14
Is that a 351w? Intake looks really wide for a 302.
Good eye. 351
Did you not have to remove the heads?
Luckily no. Heads stay on for a cam swap. You do have to take off the intake manifold, the timing cover and plenty other parts to get the cam out though👍
👍👍👍👍👍
How much power you think its making
It only made 286 with the E cam. Once I put the F cam in it put down a lack luster 270....this isn’t the cams fault. Since this engine has been put together it has only had a 625 street demon carb which is outstanding for daily use, but it leans out at high RPM. The tuner that ran the dyno said it quite pulling considerably past 4,000 I think. If you are really bored you can find the video on the channel lol. Bottom line, I still think the F cam is great had way more potential in this combination 👍👍
B cam, e cam, F cam, what’s the difference?
This answer may be too vague, but they all give the car a different “personality”. There is a lot that goes into numbers that make up a cams characteristics. If we’re talking lift (in ascending order) it would be B, E, F. For duration (in ascending order) it would be E, B, F. There’s a lot that goes into camshaft design and I honestly understand just the basics.
What pushrods did you use
I believe they are 7.7” hardened Trick Flow’s. I bought em a long time ago so I may have misremembered a detail
Will e cam and 1:7 rockers work?
I really think it would, but the standard answer is to check the piston to valve clearance with clay or play dough. I think one of my CZcams friends put some test springs on his heads and then was able to measure the piston to valve clearance that way. I’m not 100 percent sure about that method, but it may be a worthwhile something to look up on google
@@fomobros2207 thabks
Any experience with the b303 cam?
Hey man, sorry for the late reply. I think CZcams forgot to notify me of your comment. At any rate, I had a B cam in my previous Mustang. It was a 91 GT 5 speed. My brother ported a set of E7's (very very aggressively) and that thing was a pain in the butt to drive. Below 3,000 RPM's you either had your foot on the gas or a foot on the clutch and brake. NO cruising. But it pulled REALLY hard from 3,000 and up. Just before I sold it my brother and Dad timed it a little higher and the car behaved better (I wasn't around to enjoy it though lol). My brother currently has a 1995 with a B cam and it runs really good (deep in the 12's in the quarter mile). Not always the most driver friendly, but he's more than used to it. And to be fair there is a lot of people that are not to fond of the computers in the SN-95 5.0's so that could definitely contribute to the 95's "edgy nature"
FoMoBro's no worries at all I appreciate the response late or not! This is helpful info as I’m doing a 302 swapped bmw, not really going to be a cruise around car more of a drift/track car so the B can is defenitly of interest, just don’t really have any locals I can talk to about it.
@@bretpetrie7044 That sounds like a really neat build!! OK, so I've only cobbled together a couple cars and they all had a daily driver mentality, so I won't be tons of help. Do you watch any of FXRS driver's videos? He's a sharp dude that has lot's of combo's underneath his belt and he builds them a little more on the race side than the daily side. I don't think he likes the Ford "alphabet" cams as much as I do, but I love them because stock style lifters, pushrods, and distributor gears will work. Some aftermarket cams require more specialty (pricey) parts. Here is one of his videos that mentions B cams czcams.com/video/u9Lswe8u_GE/video.html
@@fomobros2207 just need 3.73’s or 4.10’s and the b303 is fine on the street.
THE E303 CAM IS FOR A SUPERCHARGER. THAT'S WHAT IT WAS DESIGNED FOR.
Well that gave me a new goal. The next time I get an E cam I'll have to get a supercharger to go with it lol.
@@fomobros2207WHEN I BUILT MY FRIEND'S SMALL BLOCK. HE BOUGHT THE E303 CAM. WE FOUND OUT LATER FORD DESIGNED IT FOR SUPERCHARGERS.
I heard the E cam was also an upgrade from the stock and was good for the daily drive.
@@oscarvillarreal8951 THE MOST AWSOME SOUNDING CAM. IT HAD LOTS OF TOP END ON THE 302 WE BUILT. THE LOWER END LACKED PULL FROM THE START, POSSIBLY BECAUSE IT WAS A AUTOMATIC WITH A AOD WHICH USES LOTS OF POWER BUT STRONG AS HELL. BUT ONCE THE CAM HIT THE MIDRANGE TO TOP END IT PULLED LIKE CRAZY. I REMEMBER GOING TO ENGLISH TOWN RACEWAY FROM NEW YORK CITY TO JERSEY AND GOING THROUGH THE TOLL BOOTHS. AND THE SOUND IT WAS MAKING UNDER TO TOLL BOOTH AS WE WAITED TO PAY THE TOLL. AND AS WE PULLED UP TO THE CLERK. HE LOOKED AT THE CAR AND WAS AMAZED AT THE EXHAUST NOTE AND SAID WHAT THE FUCK IS THIS, THE SOUND IS INCREDIBLE. MONTHS LATER MY FRIEND HOOKED UP WITH A GIRL UPSTATE ON THE INTERNET AND LATER ON IN THE DAY WHEN HE LEFT A POLICE CAR PULLED UP NEXT TO HIM (WHEN COPS WERE HUMAN BEINGS AND NOT THE PREDATORY KILLERS THEY ARE TODAY, THAT WHEN YOU LOOKED AT A UNIFORM YOU ADMIRED WHAT THE BADGE STOOD FOR). ASKED MY FRIEND TO DO HIM A FAVOR AND PULL A HOLE SHOT AND SMOKE THE WHEELS. HE GAVE THE COP THE THRILL OF HIS LIFE. ALL IN ALL FROM WHAT I KNOW IT IS A SUPERCHARGER DESIGNED CAM. BUT YOU DO THE RESEARCH MY FACTS CAN ALSO BE WRONG.
False
Bigger carb might wake it up like a 750
Yeah.....I kinda regret going with the 625 sometimes lol. If I ever run across a decent priced 750 AND nothing else is broken or requires attention I'll probably scoop one up. I really like these Street Demon's, but beggars can't be choosers.
I wanna put a Windsor in mine!
I like 302 and 351 Windsors bc they are easy to get parts for and usually easy to work on. Do you have an ol' Foxbody?
FoMoBro's I have a 94 sn95!
@@westsideslide5873 I love the 94 and 95 Mustangs! Pushrod sn95's are kind of under appreciated right now, but it's only a matter of time before collectors realize that its the last of the 5.0 Mustangs (the real 5.0)
e cam definitely sounded better.
all them letter cams are junk only one that ok is the f and most peoples feeling will get hurt but people just wanna sound cool and have that chop but they cause less torque and hp. Bigger is not alway better you float your valves and does not close your valves fast enough at high rpm’s even with bigger springs iv ran them all on my fully built 94 svt cobra and I switched to a high energy comps cam computer controlled and made way more power with a mild cam if your lift and duration and lobe separation is perfect you’ll make a lot of vacuum and killer power your valves can only open so much and so fast it’s high compression and good flowing heads with the perfect cam that makes a real motor people need to understand and will never unless they dyno the car but will say if anything go with a f cam but rest are garbage they are not a race cam
E cam sounds better...
It totally does, which is kinda funny bc when I got into Foxbody’s back in the day a lot of my friends would tell me to stay away from the E cam bc it sounded too tame, as we now know that’s not the case👍
Ecam 114 lsa, fcam 110 lsa. Ecam blower application
That is completely backwards 🤣
@@jeffpeterson1957 👈🤣😂
F cam in a stock pist car will interfere
With flat top pistons with no valve reliefs I wouldn’t have much faith. But I “think” you’d be fine unless the heads were shaved aggressively. At any rate it’s always a good idea to do the play dough trick, turn the engine my hand and see the clearance between the valves and piston.
@@fomobros2207 just saw this video. I have a 94 with a stock bottom end with the fcam, gt40x heads, 1.7 rockers and explorer intake. No clearance issues.
@@leepittman2393 That's awesome, I really like the SN-95s with the 5.0's, especially when some go fast parts.
snarf snarf That is false..want proof?? Watch the video 🤦🏾♂️😂
I ran my comp cams XE274HR with stock piston's and 1.94/1.54 gt40x head valves in a set of E7's and it was fine. And that's a .555/.565 lift cam.