I found your channel after watching one of your videos with the Charles city assembly plant workers. My wife grew up on a dairy farm near blooming prairie Minnesota. Her dad was a huge Oliver guy. When my wife and I started dating ( in 1976) he had a 1750 ( he bought new) an Oliver 80, an Oliver 99. An Oliver 535 combine, and a 1965 Minneapolis Moline Jet star 3 ( he bought brand new at Steele county implement in Owatonna Minnesota, and my wife and I still have it) I remember he traded the 535 for a green 7600 combine , and traded the 1750 for an 1855. ( bad decision) I remember him telling me about touring the Charles city plant just before buying the 1750. I feel bad now, but I remember the day we cut up the 7600 for scrap, including the 4 row wide corn head and 13’ bean head. Anyway love your videos
I recommend snapping the throttle a few times while using that kind of of combustion leak tester. They don’t really react strongly to small combustion leaks.
Make sure the radiator overflow tube is debris-free, it might sound silly but it won't cost anything. You may have had something crawl up and block the tube to the point that the pressure had no other way to go than out the cap.
Hi! I've used those block testers quite a bit at my old job. You don't need an airtight seal like you had because you'll actually pull coolant into the fluid. You can hold it an inch or so above the neck and just squeeze it 8-10 times once it's bearly steaming. Coolant will contaminate the test fluid if you pull it up into the tester.
Use the tester when the engine is cold too. The heat expands the heads and can seal a small leak. But honestly that type of tester is not the best but is better than just guessing!! Good luck.
Were did you find that old oliver mounted picker?we had a IH 234 we mounted on our old checker board oliver 1800 gaser ,later converted to LP. After converting it to LP gas,it turned it into a different tractor,very windy acceleration and the oil was kept cleaner and was never very dirty after,it pulled that picker almost in rd speed,,even along with the sheller rear, if we had that mounted after filling the cribs up,and then bins,, only on last resort,,as drying cost money surely as today,,we ground alot of our ear corn for hog feed,great for the sows milk and piglets nutrients,nice galz wagons ,quite collectable for sure
It appears to me, it acts like someone took out the thermostat. I know you have a thermostat in it, so my best guess is that the thermostat is sticking wide open at times. Since the water pump needs repaired anyway, put a good new thermostat in and see what happens.
i have that tester from napa . i had a head gasket and cracked head on my peterbilt. cat 3406e .i had the same results you are having ' mine would boil idling,but i could cruise down the road at 60 and it was fine. i did a bubble test puting the overflow hose in a bottle of water ,i shut each injetor off one at a time . i got to cyl 6 ,shut the injetor of it quit bubbling. ended up 3 inches of fire ring was burned and head was cracked. at idle compulsion gas will build up around the thermostat and it won't reopen.if the water pump is sucking air some how,you would have the same result. you could try pulling the thermostat if it is higher than the head,don't let the water drain low enough to let air in the head,take the belt off the water pump. start it and watch for bubbles.don't run long. hop its something simple and easy to fix. good luck
I seen you brought home that #6 picker last year I brought one home Sunday it’s in pretty good shape hasn’t been ran in 13 years I got it from the original owners grandkids even has the original manual and parts list and all the mounting brackets except the spreader bar I know there’s not many out there thought you’d like to know there is another
Watch Wes Work had the same problem with his combustion gas detector on an Mack engine. He wound up ziptieing a nitrile glove to the radiator and it blew up like balloon.
We had a 310 that did similar things and we were needing the tractor and we had a 354 Perkins sitting in the corner so we opted to swap that in and the 310 took its place in the corner.
I used this same tester on my daughters car a month ago, it turned yellowish green. However at idle it didn’t give much of an indication of color change, we had to hold the rpm up to get it to build some pressure in the system, then it turned color quickly. Found it was several things. Bad head gasket, bad thermostat stuck open, and leaking water pump. I screwed up a t first, accidentally sucking some coolant up into the tester, and then redid it once cleaning it up. Was worth the cost compared to napa
If you do suspect a combustion leak sometimes after a full build like that and running it for a few years those bolts can stretch some and it may just take a retorque.
Well, this video was full of interesting information. I could see the water pump wiggle and I'm sure if you loosen the belts, it would probably be scary. I'm not why it's forming. That's got me baffled. Teeter is a great mouser. She had it quick. Thanks for sharing. See you later.
had the same problem on a 1466 and all it turnt out to be was a weak spring on the radiator cap and it was letting the coolant push out once it started to expand
You definetly do not have exhaust gasses present in the radiator. The test fluid would be closer to the yellow color you showed when you took the sample from the exhaust. I also think your sample from the crank case is negative as well. You may have a slight amount coming past the rings. I know it is a fairly fresh engine, but who is not to say the rings are completely seated yet? When you have compression gasses present and use that test kit 95% of the time it makes a very noticable change in the fluid color. I have used that same type of test kit in the past. I would agree with you start with the water pump. Was the thremostat new when you rebuilt the engine?
Harbor freight tool brands like icon or there power tools like Hercules aren’t actually that bad, expensive by harbor freight standards but good tools. I Still prefer craftsman, Milwaukee, and gearwrench though
Could be fluid thats just not correct responding to your test ,it would have to be blowing white smoke before i would tear it apart as I would watch it although before and durning operation for sure
It has compression leaks it wouldn't be bubbling in there otherwise. I've never had the color change on diesels but definitely had major compression leaks.
My 1550 gas done that and I checked everything and ended up taking the rad off and having it bolted and re done and it has not done it again no idea what its problem was lol
Just do a oil test,that will tell you if you have a pressure coolant seal leak,and watch your blowbye moisture coming out of you tube,, don't drel and make your troubles bigger than they really are,as you got bigger things to worry about
I do like the idea you keep the weeping oil dirt cake off your equipment,engine block and trans etc,many guys don't seem to care,,you can find out if you got a leak very quickly you can see to address it before it gets out of hand
Save up for a steam pressure cleaner,(northern tool company etc) ,you will like it alot and you have a great need for one on that old equipment you come to get, time and time again
He said 10 to 15 years for the 2255 because he’s gonna do everything at once and that’s gonna be a large chunk of change and the 2-105 I don’t remember but it’ll also be awhile
I found your channel after watching one of your videos with the Charles city assembly plant workers. My wife grew up on a dairy farm near blooming prairie Minnesota. Her dad was a huge Oliver guy. When my wife and I started dating ( in 1976) he had a 1750 ( he bought new) an Oliver 80, an Oliver 99. An Oliver 535 combine, and a 1965 Minneapolis Moline Jet star 3 ( he bought brand new at Steele county implement in Owatonna Minnesota, and my wife and I still have it) I remember he traded the 535 for a green 7600 combine , and traded the 1750 for an 1855. ( bad decision) I remember him telling me about touring the Charles city plant just before buying the 1750. I feel bad now, but I remember the day we cut up the 7600 for scrap, including the 4 row wide corn head and 13’ bean head. Anyway love your videos
I recommend snapping the throttle a few times while using that kind of of combustion leak tester. They don’t really react strongly to small combustion leaks.
525 looks good in the daylight. Oliver did make a good looking combine
You mean Cockshutt :)
Make sure the radiator overflow tube is debris-free, it might sound silly but it won't cost anything.
You may have had something crawl up and block the tube to the point that the pressure had no other way to go than out the cap.
It’s not blocked. That’s where the coolant comes out when it’s running.
Hi! I've used those block testers quite a bit at my old job. You don't need an airtight seal like you had because you'll actually pull coolant into the fluid. You can hold it an inch or so above the neck and just squeeze it 8-10 times once it's bearly steaming. Coolant will contaminate the test fluid if you pull it up into the tester.
Here in Indiana Hendricks County if it has a roof it is taxable!
That sucks
You might want to consider taking a crankcase sample off another diesel. That color change might just be from windage vapors.
Use the tester when the engine is cold too. The heat expands the heads and can seal a small leak. But honestly that type of tester is not the best but is better than just guessing!! Good luck.
Were did you find that old oliver mounted picker?we had a IH 234 we mounted on our old checker board oliver 1800 gaser ,later converted to LP. After converting it to LP gas,it turned it into a different tractor,very windy acceleration and the oil was kept cleaner and was never very dirty after,it pulled that picker almost in rd speed,,even along with the sheller rear, if we had that mounted after filling the cribs up,and then bins,, only on last resort,,as drying cost money surely as today,,we ground alot of our ear corn for hog feed,great for the sows milk and piglets nutrients,nice galz wagons ,quite collectable for sure
It appears to me, it acts like someone took out the thermostat. I know you have a thermostat in it, so my best guess is that the thermostat is sticking wide open at times. Since the water pump needs repaired anyway, put a good new thermostat in and see what happens.
i have that tester from napa . i had a head gasket and cracked head on my peterbilt. cat 3406e .i had the same results you are having ' mine would boil idling,but i could cruise down the road at 60 and it was fine. i did a bubble test puting the overflow hose in a bottle of water ,i shut each injetor off one at a time . i got to cyl 6 ,shut the injetor of it quit bubbling. ended up 3 inches of fire ring was burned and head was cracked. at idle compulsion gas will build up around the thermostat and it won't reopen.if the water pump is sucking air some how,you would have the same result. you could try pulling the thermostat if it is higher than the head,don't let the water drain low enough to let air in the head,take the belt off the water pump. start it and watch for bubbles.don't run long. hop its something simple and easy to fix. good luck
Great video hope you can figure it out.
Dollar general Moth balls will keep those mice out of your equipment cabs during off seasons for sure
Ethan, I'm sure you'll get it figured out. Sounds like you getting things kind of caught up now. Thanks Michael
It’s a mystery
I seen you brought home that #6 picker last year I brought one home Sunday it’s in pretty good shape hasn’t been ran in 13 years I got it from the original owners grandkids even has the original manual and parts list and all the mounting brackets except the spreader bar I know there’s not many out there thought you’d like to know there is another
Interesting Ethan, I think the test posed more questions than answers 🤔looking forward to find out what y’all find out. Take care OFB🇺🇸💪🏻🇺🇸
It can never be easy.
Very interesting video Ethan hope you solve your problem easily
Watch Wes Work had the same problem with his combustion gas detector on an Mack engine. He wound up ziptieing a nitrile glove to the radiator and it blew up like balloon.
Still not necessarily indicative of a head gasket failure.
Put some bounce dryer sheets in your cab mice don't like them I thought it was bs but it did work
I agree with you 💯. But it has to be Bounce brand. Other brands don't work as well. I've been doing this for years
We had a 310 that did similar things and we were needing the tractor and we had a 354 Perkins sitting in the corner so we opted to swap that in and the 310 took its place in the corner.
You don’t repower a tractor as valuable as a 1950T
I used this same tester on my daughters car a month ago, it turned yellowish green. However at idle it didn’t give much of an indication of color change, we had to hold the rpm up to get it to build some pressure in the system, then it turned color quickly. Found it was several things. Bad head gasket, bad thermostat stuck open, and leaking water pump. I screwed up a t first, accidentally sucking some coolant up into the tester, and then redid it once cleaning it up. Was worth the cost compared to napa
If you do suspect a combustion leak sometimes after a full build like that and running it for a few years those bolts can stretch some and it may just take a retorque.
I already did.
I have never seen a tester like that bubble like that
Well, this video was full of interesting information. I could see the water pump wiggle and I'm sure if you loosen the belts, it would probably be scary. I'm not why it's forming. That's got me baffled. Teeter is a great mouser. She had it quick. Thanks for sharing. See you later.
I’m gonna do the water pump first since it’s going out anyhow and go from there.
had the same problem on a 1466 and all it turnt out to be was a weak spring on the radiator cap and it was letting the coolant push out once it started to expand
That was interesting and I learned something today.
Good job testing you did it right head gasket is ok
I would test all of your tractors and correlate that to the T results.
I enjoy the videos keep up the good work and you might wanna pick up a Milwaukee battery powered vacuum. I got the idea from Andy Horigan
Looking good Ethan
I think I would do a pressure test on the radiator
machinery Tetris Farm Boy. And strange behavior!
You definetly do not have exhaust gasses present in the radiator. The test fluid would be closer to the yellow color you showed when you took the sample from the exhaust. I also think your sample from the crank case is negative as well. You may have a slight amount coming past the rings. I know it is a fairly fresh engine, but who is not to say the rings are completely seated yet? When you have compression gasses present and use that test kit 95% of the time it makes a very noticable change in the fluid color. I have used that same type of test kit in the past. I would agree with you start with the water pump. Was the thremostat new when you rebuilt the engine?
Harbor freight tool brands like icon or there power tools like Hercules aren’t actually that bad, expensive by harbor freight standards but good tools. I Still prefer craftsman, Milwaukee, and gearwrench though
I’ll only buy stuff there that I’m only gonna use once or twice.
If I remember correctly don’t you need a different fluid for diesels vs gas, I think it’s a different color as well
No
Sounds like the water pump is sucking in air somehow.
Could be fluid thats just not correct responding to your test ,it would have to be blowing white smoke before i would tear it apart as I would watch it although before and durning operation for sure
Change thermostat and run it.Still does it then take the head off.Water pump was weak it would be overheating al the time!!
Water pump isn’t weak. The bearing is loose. That’s why I wiggled the fan…
I would hate to think its small crack I agree pressure test it that’s what we did back in the day automotive wise
It has compression leaks it wouldn't be bubbling in there otherwise. I've never had the color change on diesels but definitely had major compression leaks.
Don't forget it probably doesn't leak like it does under a full load with boost on top of that.
Then how come it leaks the worst at an idle sitting doing nothing.
I mean under load full send it's much worse and pushes the coolant out. The compression leaks.
That rolling bubbles is not right. At all especially a warmed up engine. Head gasket or liners with pin holes. Or a crack some where.
@@southwooddairy7695yes. And I meant it does it the worst when it’s sitting there idling doing nothing. Just like I said.
It doesn't look green in my opinion. Change the water pump first it is easier.
That’s where I’m gonna start.
Could be one of those deals where something is leaking only at certain conditions like temp work load ect
Will push coolant out idling in the yard or working in the field. There is no pattern.
My 1550 gas done that and I checked everything and ended up taking the rad off and having it bolted and re done and it has not done it again no idea what its problem was lol
The radiator has been rebuilt with a new core already
There isn't a place were the intake is close to coolant, it isn't turbo boost getting in tje radiator somewhere
Not without a cracked head.
do you by chance have a copper gasket and fire rings in the head and block
Put it on a 5 bottom plow and test it.
That’s not going to tell me anything I don’t already know….
Just do a oil test,that will tell you if you have a pressure coolant seal leak,and watch your blowbye moisture coming out of you tube,, don't drel and make your troubles bigger than they really are,as you got bigger things to worry about
Dad always had block sealer mixed in his radiator fluid ,a good amount of silver seal doesn't hurt I believe,just as a precaution measure
I do like the idea you keep the weeping oil dirt cake off your equipment,engine block and trans etc,many guys don't seem to care,,you can find out if you got a leak very quickly you can see to address it before it gets out of hand
Save up for a steam pressure cleaner,(northern tool company etc) ,you will like it alot and you have a great need for one on that old equipment you come to get, time and time again
Block sealer is a hack fix and we have a steam cleaner already.
Would you not get some combustion gases in the crank case?
Yes
Do you think you will get the 2-105 or 2255 going
He said 10 to 15 years for the 2255 because he’s gonna do everything at once and that’s gonna be a large chunk of change and the 2-105 I don’t remember but it’ll also be awhile